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Guia_Restaurantes

VIEWS: 20 PAGES: 34

  • pg 1
									       Top
               50


  The 25 best restaurants and
the 25 best gastrobars in Spain
            In association with




                                  1

The 25 Best Restaurants in Spain
Here is a selection of the 5 best                 Some top restaurants, grouped by
Spanish restaurants, compiled by               Autonomous Communities, do not figure
Rafael Ansón, a great culinary                 among the best 25. In Aragón: La Venta
expert (page 4).                              del Soto and Taberna de Lillas Pastia.
                                               Cantabria: El Cenador de Amós. Castile
    Of the 25 restaurants, 8 are in the        & León: Estrella del Bajo Carrión, Vivaldi
Basque Country, 6 in Catalonia, 3 in Ma-       and Ramiro’s. Galicia: Casa Marcelo and
drid, 2 in Castile-La Mancha, 2 in Asturias,   Solla. La Rioja: El Portal de Echaurre.
2 in Andalusia, 1 in the Valencia region,      Murcia: La Cabaña. Navarra: Rodero and
and 1 in Extremadura.                          Maher. Balearic Islands: Tristán and Es
    Others establishments have received        Molí d’en Bou. Canary Islands: M.B and
high ratings in some of the guides. In         El Duende.
Catalonia: the Hispania, Lasarte and Vía           In the selection of the 50 Best Restau-
Veneto. Madrid: Horcher, La Terraza del        rants in the World there are five from Spain:
Casino and Zalacaín. Basque Country:           El Bulli, Can Roca, Mugaritz, Arzak and Mar-
Guggenheim. Navarra: Rodero. Balearic          tín Berasategui. And between places 50 and
Islands: Tristán. Canary Islands: M. B. de     100 are Etxebarri, Pedro Subijana, Carme
Martín Berasategui. In most of these cases     Ruscalleda-Sant Pau, Quique Dacosta and
the owner is also the head chef.               Can Fabes.

                                                                                               
    Haute cuisine

         AkelArre                                        ArzAk
         There are several reasons to justify a          Eating at this restaurant is one of
         trip to this restaurant, founded by Pe-         best culinary experiences possible.
         dro Subijana in 1970. One is its location,      To speak of Juan Mari is to speak of the
         atop Monte Igueldo, with magnificent views      dean of Spanish haute cuisine, a master
         over San Sebastián and the Bay of Biscay        of masters. Since his beginnings in 1966,
         from its lovely panoramic dining room,          Juan Mari has produced exceptional and
         modern and elegant. Another is the love of      authentic Basque dishes, with a clear idea:
         cooking that Pedro brings to his creations,     to adapt tradition to new times.This temple
         which are full of innovation and personality,   of gastronomy, with modern and elegant
         dishes based on excellent raw materials and     decor and excellent lighting, has an assured
         executed without any stridency. Another         future: Elena Arzak has shown herself to be
         reason is the perfect functioning of a dining
         room team headed by Perfe Prol, Pedro’s
         wife. Their excellent garden and the fine
         wines are another source of pride.
         Paseo Padre Orcolaga, 56.
         San Sebastián
                 www.akelarre.net✍
4
                                                Spain’s star chefs are among the best in
                                                the world
                                                The S. Pellegrino List of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants
                                                is increasingly prestigious (www.theworlds50best.com).
                                                Among the top 10 in the 010 edition are El Bulli in Roses
                                                (chef Ferran Adrià), down one spot from its previous four
                                                straight years as número uno (he was declared Best Chef
                                                of the Decade 000- 010); Mugaritz in Rentería (Andoni
                                                Luis Aduriz), El Celler de Can Roca de Girona (Joan Roca)
                                                and Arzak in San Sebastián (Juan Mari and Elena Arzak).
                                                No other country comes even close to Spain. And then
as professional as her father, Juan Mari.       there’s Martín Berasategui, in Lasarte (Guipúzcoa), in a
                                                magnificent thirty-third position.
Avda. Alcalde José Elosegui, 7.                    But there are many other chefs, some of whom oc-
San Sebastián                                   cupy leading positions, such as Bittor Arginzoniz at the
          www.arzak.es✍                         Asador Etxebarri, in Axpe (Vizcaya); Carme Ruscalleda, of
                                                Sant Pau in Sant Pol de Mar (Barcelona); Pedro Subijana, at
                                                San Sebastian’s Akelarre restaurant; Santi Santamaría from
Atrio                                           Can Fabes in Sant Celoni (Barcelona); Quique Dacosta,
Created by Toño Pérez and José A.               at El Poblet in Denia (Alicante). And others: Sergi Arola,
Polo and elegantly and soberly deco-            Paco Roncero, David Muñoz, Dani García, Fermí Puig,
rated with classic works of art, this           Carles Abellán...
                                                     In addition, there are chefs throughout Spain who are
restaurant has an intimate, welcoming           long on experience and skills, and while they haven’t yet
ambience. There are linen tablecloths,          received international stardom they merit the highest
Riedel crystal, fine silverware and porcelain   recognition.This would be the case in Madrid with Paco
and excellent service organised by José. In     Roncero, Sacha Hormaechea, Ramon Freixa or Abraham
                                                García; in Galicia, Pepe Solla or Marcelo; in Asturias, Pedro
addition, it has one of the finest restaurant   and Marcos Morán, Miguel and Isaac Loya, and Nacho
wine cellars, which has won important           Manzano; Castile-La Mancha, Manuel de la Osa or the
awards. Toño, also a prize winner, is one of    Rodríguez Rey brothers; Francis Paniego in the Rioja;
the great chefs. His continual quest to learn   Koldo Rodero or Enrique Martínez in Navarra; Raúl
                                                Aleixandre at Ca Sento in Valencia, and Dani García, the
has allowed him to wed the best of haute
                                                best in Andalusia.
cuisine with typical Spanish cooking: he has

                                                                                                                5
    Haute cuisine

         kept alive the typical dishes of western         tacular vista of the sea and the blue sky.The
         Spain by skilfully transforming them. He         service is attentive to the smallest detail. In
         will soon move this culinary temple to the       addition to the ample wine list there is a
         old part of town.                                large cheese wagon, sweets and teas, and a
         Avda. de España, . Cáceres                     range of breads and virgin olive oils.
         www.restauranteatrio.com✍                        Hotel Gran Melia Don Pepe. Avda.
                                                          José Meliá, s/n. Marbella (Málaga)
         CAlimA                                           www.restaurantecalima.com✍
         Dani Garcia began at the Cónsula de
         Málaga hostelry school, continued in             CAn      fAbes
         the kitchen of Martín Berasategui and            Santi Santamaría is a real gastronomic
         has now created Calima. Based on the             institution in Catalonia and the rest
         traditional flavours of Andalusia, the cuisine   of Spain: one of the biggest of the big
         is full of contrasts, and employs advanced       chefs, and a versatile creator. For more
         techniques such as the use of liquid nitrogen    than 30 years he has been demonstrating
         in several of its dishes. The lovely modern      his skill at Can Fabes. This is haute cuisine
         dining room is warm and elegant, with            based on Catalan traditions and prod-
         views of Dani’s kitchen, which can also be       ucts from the fields and the sea: recipes
         observed from the terrace, with its spec-        have been updated to bring out the most

6
authentic flavours and textures. One of         knowledge comes from personal experi-
the pillars of the operation is Santi’s wife,   ence with the products of the Maresme
Ángels, who efficiently runs the modern         region, which are the basis of her cuisine.
dining room. Rounding out the top-flight        Her two dining rooms, which are run by
professional team are Cándido Tardío and        Toni, are the incarnation of elegance and
Juan Carlos Ibáñez.                             good taste. In her efforts to demonstrate
C/ Sant Joan, 6. Sant Celoni (Barcelona)        her qualities and knowledge, Carme has
      www.canfabes.com✍                         written several books on food.
                                                C/ Nou, 10. Sant Pol de Mar (Barcelona)
CArme rusCAlledA – sAnt pAu                           www.ruscalleda.cat✍
Since 1988 the Carmen Ruscalleda-
Sant Pau restaurant has occupied a              CAsA GerArdo
19th-century building with a garden             When it opened in 188, this was a
and views of the Mediterranean. Over            humble restaurant and stagecoach
the years the team of Carme Ruscalleda          stop. At the end of the 1970s, Pedro
and Toni Balam has worked hard to pro-          Morán took over, and his kitchen was soon
duce culinary results that have placed this     a sanctum sanctorum of traditional Asturian
establishment at the very top. Carme never      cooking, starring the fabada (bean stew)
went to a professional cooking school: her      and the rice pudding. Marcos, representing

                                                                                              7
    Haute cuisine

         the latest generation, is developing things        haute cuisine in the Asturias region, with
         further with creative versions of this north-      a special sensibility for local products
         ern Spanish cuisine, although he’s in no           and flavours: the broad beans, the pitu
         hurry. The basis is still the quality products     de Caleya (free-range chicken stew), the
         from the land and the sea.The very pleasant        tortos (a cornflower, meat and egg dish)...
         classic yet modern dining room with good           There is a pleasant, comfortable dining
         service, as well as a large wine list, make this   room with stone walls and a beamed
         is a must when visiting Asturias.                  ceiling, a rustic setting that contrasts with
         Ctra. AS-19, km 8. Prendes (Asturias)              the elegance of the linen, silverware and
            www.casa-gerardo.com✍                           crockery. The careful service and excel-
                                                            lent wine list are overseen, respectively,
         CAsA mArCiAl                                       by his friendly, highly professional sisters,
         Located in a farmhouse in a rural                  Olga and Sandra.
         setting in the Sierra del Sueve area               C/ La Salgar, 10. Arriondas (Asturias)
         close to the Fito observation point,               www.casamarcial.com✍
         Casa Marcial has become Nacho
         Manzano’s gastronomic temple. He                   diverxo
         was a star pupil of Víctor Bango (Casa             This restaurant run by David Muñoz
         Víctor – Gijón) and is the leader of               raised great expectation in Madrid

8
                                             The important culinary events
                                                                                        Spain currently has
                                                                                    more top-level gastro-
                                                                                    nomic events than any
                                                                                    other country. They at-
                                                                                    tract the celebrity chefs
                                                                                    who, along with other
                                                                                    Spanish masters, are
                                                                                    among the best cooks in
                                                                                    the world.
                                                                                        Buoyed up by the
                                                                                    international success of
                                                                                    Spanish cuisine, these
                                                                                    congresses are springing
                                                                                    up all over the country.
                                                                                    Between the last months
                                                                                    of 009 and the first
                                                                                    ones of 010, many such
                                                events have been held with different aims, although with
                                                one thing in common: good eating.
                                                     Some of the key events, starting in September 009:
                                                Andalucía Sabor (Seville), Congreso de Gastronomía de
                                                Castilla-La Mancha (Albacete), Club Millésime (Madrid),
                                                Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía (Alicante), San Sebastián
                                                Gastronomika (San Sebastián), Madrid Fusión (Madrid),
and soon became an obligatory                   Fórum Santiago (Santiago de Compostela),Alimentaria and
                                                Barcelona Vanguardia (Barcelona), Salón Internacional del
stop for food lovers. His blending of           Club de Gourmets (Madrid) and España Original (Ciudad
aromas and flavours, as well as his use of      Real), the latter gathering held in early May of this year.
the most varied products, demonstrate                Some of them have probably been left out of this long
the high degree of creativity of the dif-       list, but there is one that must be included —though its
                                                aims are quite different— in part because it is very impor-
ferent menus. Another important factor          tant for the Royal Spanish Academy of Gastronomy, which
is the charm and professional approach          helps organise the event along with the Secretary of State
of Ángela Montero in the dining room.           for Tourism, headed
This is a large, attractive room with a         by Joan Mesquida:
                                                the I European Con-
glass wine storage container overseen by        gress of Tourism and
Javier Arroyo.The efforts of David and his      Gastronomy, which
team earned him Spain’s 2009 National           was held in Madrid
Gastronomy Prize.                               from  to 5 May,
                                                and which attracted
C/ Pensamiento, 8. Madrid                      some of the impor-
       www.diverxo.com✍                         tant international
                                                experts.
drolmA                                               So Spanish haute
                                                cuisine will continue
Top marks for this establishment:               to be popular in
the cooking by Fermín Puig, the                 010.

                                                                                                           9
     Haute cuisine

          wine cellar run by Josep Puigcor-         el bohío
          bé and the dining room headed             Located halfway between Madrid and
          by Alfred Romagosa. More than 10          Toledo, this family business founded
          years ago the Soldevilla-Casals family    in 190 is today run by the third
          made a commitment to creating a           generation: José and Diego Rodríguez
          luxur y restaurant inside a hotel, in     Rey. They’ve made it into a Mecca for
          spite of the risk of such an opera-       food lovers. José’s cooking is a blend of
          tion, but it’s been a complete success.   the traditional and the modern, based on
          Drolma is now a culinary point of ref-    local products and flavours. This technical,
          erence in Barcelona. Fermin’s neoclas-    auteur approach has captured the essence
          sic haute cuisine, without any modern     of Castilian cooking.The small classic dining
          extravagance, has been defined by the     room is directed very professionally by Di-
          exper ts as cultivated cooking based      ego. His wine list includes
          on seasonal products (white truffles,     more than 600 offerings
          game...) that are prepared with knowl-    from all over the world,
          edge and care.                            among them local offer-
          Hotel Majestic. Paseo de Gracia, 70.      ings, thus making it one of
          Barcelona                                 the finest restaurant wine
          www.drolmarestaurant.com✍                 cellars in Spain.

10
Avda. Castilla-La Mancha, 81.                Schilling until today, it has never ceased
Illescas (Toledo)                            to surprise.
www.elbohio.net✍                             Cala Montjoy,s/n. Roses (Girona)
                                                     www.elbulli.com✍
el bulli
El Bulli is the sanctum sanctorum of         el Celler de CAn roCA
creative cuisine, run by chef Fer-           The Roca brothers have become
ran Adrià, who has received world            a culinary point of reference both
recognition. This cooking has been           inside and outside Spain. Glass, wood
described as “the fruit of imagination,      and views of a lovely garden lend a mod-
creativity and wisdom.” Add to this the      ern, luminous, elegant touch to the trian-
natural setting at Cala Montjoy, the atmo-   gular dining room that harmonises with
sphere in the dining rooms attentively run   the old Catalan farmhouse. This is the
by Juli Soler, and the teamwork between      setting for enjoying Joan’s cooking and
them and the kitchen, and the result is      Jordi’s pastry, which together have been
that El Bulli a unique gastronomic temple    defined as a cuisine of sensations, both
that all food lovers should be familiar      salty and sweet. Before sitting down at
with. It is more than a restaurant, and      table, make a visit to the wine cellar, a
from its beginnings in 1981 with Marketta    real monument for both its design and

                                                                                          11
     Haute cuisine

          the variety of bottles. Josep is in charge    while Zigor Gutiérrez is responsible for
          of the drink and the smooth functioning       the always current wine list.
          of the dining room.                           Avda. Abandoibarra, 4.
          C/ Can Sunyer, 48 Girona                      (Palacio Euskalduna). Bilbao
          www.elcellerdecanroca.com✍                           www.etxanobe.com✍
          etxAnobe                                      etxebArri
          Opened in 1999 in a beautiful loca-           Víctor Arginzoniz is the driving force
          tion, the Euskalduna Palace, this             behind this establishment set in the
          establishment has a luminous, spa-            middle of the Valle de Axtondo, in the
          cious, modern dining room, while its          Basque Country. It occupies a fine stone
          terrace offers fine views of Bilbao.          farmhouse, with a bar and kitchen on the
          The versatile Fernando Canales is a tele-     lower floor and the dining room one flight
          vision personality, a culinary advisor and,   up. Víctor has invented different grills and
          of course, a chef. Seconded by Mikel          utensils for handling the excellent products
          Población, his haute cuisine is based on      (oysters, baby eels, chops...), and uses differ-
          the best products and traditions. The at-     ent kinds of wood for fuel.
          tentive professional dining room service      Plaza San Juan, 1. Atxondo (Vizcaya)
          is overseen by María Ángeles Elizondo,        www.asadoretxebarri.com✍
1
                                           Traditional cuisine and creative cuisine
                                                                                     Cooking in Spain is
                                                                                     currently undergoing
                                                                                     a simplification, with a
                                                                                     give-and-take between
                                                                                     supporters of invention
                                                                                     (creative cuisine) and
                                                                                     those conservatives
                                                                                     who preserve tradition
                                                                                     (popular cooking).
                                                                                         The great success
                                                                                     of Spanish cuisine in
                                                                                     the early 1st century
                                                                                     comes from the fact that
                                                                                     its chefs have opted for
                                                                                     dishes made from ba-
                                                                                     sic natural products of
                                                                                     great quality. But there’s
                                               another reason: the attention to the country’s traditional
                                               recipes. Precisely because the good things from the past
                                               have been maintained and improved, today we have a wiser,
                                               healthier and even more tasty cuisine.
                                                   Travellers in Spain can choose traditional or creative
                                               cooking. The Paradores (www.parador.es) network pro-
                                               motes local food in its more than 90 establishments all over
GAiG                                           the country. It recently presented its bocados de España
                                               (‘Spanish titbits’): tapas that are representative of the food
Carles Gaig traces his culinary roots          in the different regional autonomous communities.
back to the Horta neighbourhood                    The best way to find out about all this is through the
in Barcelona, where the Gaig family            culinary guides, starting with the most prestigious one, the
had earned fame and prestige from              Repsol Guide to Spain and Portugal (www.guiarepsol.com)
                                               with a complete listing of the best traditional and creative
their restaurant as early as the 19th          restaurants, material also covered in the Gourmetour Guide
century. That explains his love of the         (www.gourmets.net) and the El País Aguilar Guide (www.
trade. In 2004, he moved things to a           elpaisaguilar.es).Together, they reveal the great sanctuaries
two-storey locale on the city’s Eixample       of good Spanish food.
thoroughfare. The dining room, on the
upper level, is elegant, classic, modern
and comfortable.
C/ Aragó, 14. Barcelona
www.restaurantgaig.com✍
lA AlqueríA
A marvellous 10th-century farm-
house is the setting for the Ho-
tel Hacienda Benazuza and La

                                                                                                            1
     Haute cuisine

          Alquería restaurant. A somewhat            lAs rejAs
          rustic dining room has become one of       Any food fans passing through this
          the prettiest and most elegant in the      town in La Mancha, considered the
          province of Seville. The cuisine bears     world garlic capital, shouldn’t miss Las
          the stamp of the eminent Ferrán            Rejas restaurant. One comfortable din-
          Adriá, and has been executed by one        ing room has a magnificent fireplace, while
          of his faithful disciples, Rafael Zafra.   there is another less formal one, modern
          Mediterranean haute cuisine with           and minimalist. Chef Manuel de la Osa is the
          clear Andalusian touches, colourful        greatest exponent of vanguard Castilian-
          presentation and excellent results, in     Manchego fare based on traditional recipes
          a set menu served only in the evening.     and local ingredients, with some highly
          The excellent wine cellar, flawless        satisfying results. The partridge, garlic and
          ser vice and magnificent breakfasts        saffron are never
          are among the other attractions of         far from his surpris-
          this hotel.                                ing creations. There
          Hotel Hacienda Benazuza.                   are excellent wines
          C/ Virgen de las Nieves, s/n.              from the cellar of
          Sanlúcar la Mayor (Sevilla)                Victoriano to match
              www.elbullihotel.com✍                  the service.

14
C/ General Borrero, 49.                         C/ Loidi, 4. Lasarte (Guipúzcoa)
Las Pedroñeras (Cuenca)                         www.martinberasategui.com✍
www.lasrejas.net✍
                                                muGAritz
mArtín berAsAteGui                              Andoni Luis Aduriz has trained with
Martín Berasategui has extended his             the great chefs and now joined them
culinary wisdom from his restaurant             with his restaurant, a reference point
in Lasarte to several establishments            inside and outside of Spain. It is lo-
that he directs or advises in the rest          cated in a lovely Basque farmhouse sur-
of Spain. He is among the biggest of the        rounded by nature —including the herb
big. His work has been defined as studio        garden— and decorated with modern
cooking: research and technique that have       touches.There is also an attractive terrace
made for highly creative results. He’s been     for summer dining. His stated aim: to bring
attracting attention since his beginnings at    out the flavours of the natural products
the Bodegón Alejandro in the old part of        in a cuisine based on pure flavours. He
San Sebastián. As he himself puts it, the aim   thus calls his restaurant “a place to feel,
should be for the customer to feel right        not to eat.”
at home, a real achievement thanks to his       Aldura Aldea, 0. Rentería (Guipúzcoa)
constant work.                                        www.mugaritz.com✍
                                                                                              15
     Haute cuisine

          quique dACostA                                 sAntCeloni
          The former Poblet de Dénia res-                This is the ‘Madrid branch’ of the gas-
          taurant has adopted the name of                tronomic temple of award-winning
          its current owner and head chef,               Santi Santamaría (Can Fabes - Sant
          Quique Dacosta, who has made it                Celoni - Barcelona), and is directed by
          into the top representative of haute           a highly qualified team that has in turn won
          cuisine in the Valencia autonomous             its own prizes: Oscar Velasco in the kitchen,
          community. This vanguard cooking has its       Abel Valverde in the dining room, and David
          roots in the land. He is dedicated to adopt-   Robledo in charge of the wines.The elegant
          ing new techniques, to doing research          minimalist design by Pascua Ortega is en-
          and to local products: rice, the red shrimp    hanced by the ample space between the
          of Dénia, and the orchards and flora of        tables, a real luxury nowadays, which lends
          south-east Spain. The modern building is       intimacy. The modern, controlled cuisine
          comfortable, surrounded by nature and          by Oscar —prepared with the advice of
          close to the beach. There is an excellent      Santi— always makes the best use of mar-
          dining room staff that makes a visit a real    ket-fresh products.
          pleasure.                                      Hotel Hesperia. Paseo de la Castellana,
          Ctra. Las Marinas, km .5. Dénia (Alicante)    57. Madrid
                 www.elpoblet.com✍                       www.restaurantesantceloni.com✍
16
                                                    The world’s first gastronomic I+D+I
                                                    programme: the Basque Culinary Center
                                                    The Royal Spanish Academy of Gastronomy is going to
                                                    work actively with the University of Mondragón and the
                                                    Ministry of Science and Innovation, headed by Cristina
                                                    Garmendia, to launch the Basque Culinary Center, which
                                                    in 011 will become the first university Faculty of Gastro-
                                                    nomic Sciences in Spain and the second in Europe. The
                                                    project has received the support of eminent Basque chefs
                                                    —including Juan Mari Arzak, Martín Berasategui, Pedro
                                                    Subijana, Karlos Arguiñano, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Hilario
serGi ArolA GAstro                                  Arbelaitz and Eneko Atxa— along with that of important
Sergi Arola’s years as a faithful disciple          local and regional institutions in the Basque Country and
of Ferran Adrià, along with his own                 associations such as Euro-toques.
culinary technique, have won him                        The Basque Culinary Center (www.mondragon.
                                                    edu/bcc) will become the world’s first institution for
fame ever since he opened La Broche                 gastronomic I+D+I (Investigation + Development +
in Madrid. Today his establishment is a             Innovation). It will satisfy the need in Spain for an official
point of reference, with a modern design            university-level culinary training programme, one that will
in its two different levels. His wife, Sara Fort,   provide the market with qualified and highly competent
                                                    professionals, as is the case in other areas of knowledge.
runs the dining rooms, backed up by a fine              The future Faculty of Gastronomic Sciences of the
team that includes the excellent sommelier,         University of Mondragón, based in San Sebastián, will
Daniel Poveda. Sergi offers his specialities in     award the Diploma of Culinary Arts, a degree adapted to
different set menus that vary each day.             the European Higher Education Area, and will have four
                                                    main areas of knowledge: Techniques of Kitchen-Dining
C/ Zurbano, 1. Madrid                              Room-Sommelier, Business Management, Science and
www.sergiarola.es✍                                  Technology, and Culture and Art. In addition, it will offer
                                                    post-graduate courses for both culinary professionals
zortziko                                            and people from other fields who want to specialise
                                                    in the gastronomic area. There will also be a dynamic
The zortziko is a typical five-day                  I+D+I centre that will become an international point
Basque dance by army recruits in                    of reference.
their village square. Since its establish-

                                                                                                                 17
     Haute cuisine

          ment in 1989, the García family has wanted     much-deserved success. This pretty
          guests to enjoy their culinary experience      Basque farmhouse, perhaps the oldest
          from start to finish. This house has thus      in the area, has been turned into a lovely
          become one of the best and most emblem-        restaurant, rustic but elegant, with walls
          atic restaurants in Bilbao. Daniel’s auteur    painted blue or of stone: a comfortable,
          creations are full of flavour, technique and   enchanting place. There is an excellent
          his personal touches. Located near the         terrace covered with wood beams that
          Guggenheim Museum, it’s elegant dining         is a window on the surrounding nature.
          room boasts excellent service directed by      Hilario’s cuisine is based on tradition and
          Oscar. An ample wine list with more than       seasonal ingredients, and demonstrates
          600 offerings, both Spanish and interna-       good sense and technique, eschewing
          tional, is overseen by Mikel.                  passing fancies or sophistication. Examples:
          C/ Alameda Mazarredo, 17. Bilbao               roast sardines with tomato and basil, or
          www.zortziko.es✍                               the poached eggs with purée of foie-gras
                                                         and truffle. The dining room and wine list
          zuberoA                                        are overseen by Eusebio, ably backed up
          Hilario Arbelaitz in the kitchen               by Arantxa Urretavizkaia.
          and brother Eusebio in the dining              Pza. Bekosoro, 1. Oiartzun (Guipúzcoa)
          room have brought Zuberoa some                        www.zuberoa.com✍
18
             The 25 best gastrobars
Along with the 25 Best Restaurants,                  A gastrobar is more comfortable, more
it is logical to include the 25 Best             tastefully decorated and makes it possible
Gastrobars.                                      to eat at the bar while seated on stools,
                                                 or dine at more or less informal tables. The
   Spain has always highly valued its bars,      basic thing is to offer simple cooking in the
taverns, tapas places and informal restaurants   shape of tapas, small servings of food or
serving traditional native cooking —places       miniaturised cuisine. In this style of eating
that are attractive not least for their com-     the accent is on quality and basic ingredi-
pany and conversation. In addition, they         ents, which are presented in traditional or
had a bar at which to stand up and have          creative recipes.
an aperitif, eat lunch or have a dinner of           Curiously, one of the pioneers in this
tapas and wine.                                  new gastrobar formula was Joël Robuchon, a
   Some of the country’s best restaurateurs,     French chef, who created his famous L’Atelier
who already run haute cuisine operations,        some years ago in Paris, from where the
have decided to reproduce this old snacks        idea spread to different cities and countries
formula in an updated and more attractive        around the world.
setting: what have been called gastrobars.           In Spain, most of them are located in the
Some of them are in old locales that have        regions of Andalusia, Madrid, Asturias, Cata-
been modernised, and others are in newly         lonia, the Basque Country, Castile-La Mancha,
created settings.                                Castile & León, the Rioja and Valencia.

                                                                                                 19
     Tapas

         A fuego negro                                Adolfo colección
         Amaia García, Edorta Lamo and                This uninhibited and informal estab-
         Iñigo Cojo are the three founders            lishment is located in the centre of
         of this locale that features music,          Toledo, in an early 20th-century build-
         design and modern decor. It’s the            ing just 50 metres from the Cathedral.
         ‘in’ place in San Sebastián to eat           It has a modern, vanguard design by Adolfo
         meals and tapas, seated or stand-            Muñoz, who has a well-deserved reputation
         ing, in a youthful, informal, relaxed        in the sector. It is managed by his daughter
         atmosphere. The cooking is Basque,           Verónica, who is always on top of the small-
         with original and creative miniatures.       est details. There are
         The menu is as original as the decora-       two levels. On the
         tion, with salads, rations and tapas, some   lower one is a shop
         of them sweet at desser t time, and          selling culinary prod-
         wine and liqueurs. As dedicated wine         ucts and a wine cellar.
         lovers, they offer a number of wines of      The upper floor has
         different grape varieties and appellation    high tables with stools and a kitchen in view
         contrôlée.                                   of the public.
         31 de Agosto, 31. San Sebastián              Nuncio Viejo, 1. Toledo
             www.afuegonegro.com✍                         www.grupoadolfo.com✍
20
                                             The world’s best virgin extra olive oils
                                                 Spain has the
                                                 best virgin
                                                 e x t r a o l i ve
                                                 oils in the
                                                 world, for
                                                 both quality
                                                 and variety.
                                                 There is one
                                                 for every dish,
                                                 and assuming
                                                 one knows
                                                 their com-
                                                 parative quali-
                                                 ties, choosing
                                                 the right one
                                                 for each occasion becomes an exercise in culinary
                                                 creativity. To learn more about oils, the book Los
                                                 aceites de oliva en la gastronomía del siglo XXI (Everest)
                                                 analyses them from all perspectives: experts in cuisine,
                                                 scientists and nutritionists reveal why this is one of
                                                 Spain’s greatest culinary treasures.
                                                      If there is a single essential ingredient in 21st-
                                                 century cuisine, it is doubtless olive oil. It is the most
                                                 noble of the fats, unsurpassed for its gastronomic,
Aris bAr                                         nutritional and dietetic qualities. And it has always
                                                 meant much more than other foods, because in reality
Juan Pablo Felipe has created a                  it is more than simple nourishment.
relaxed, informal space at the en-                    In addition to the basic Spanish oils made from
trance to El Chaflán, an opportunity             the Picual, Hojiblanca, Empeltre or Cornicabra olive
to sample his Mediterranean cook-                varieties, the Arbequina can be found throughout the
                                                 country. Also notable: the recovery of the Arbosana
ing less expensively by means of a               (the best is from La Boella. www.laboella.com) and
new concept in tapas or miniature                even the introduction of foreign varieties such as
cuisine. The bread with Torta del Casar          Koroneiki. And then there are offerings based on
cheese and truffles are a good example.          local varieties such as Manzanilla from Seville, the
                                                 Verdial from the Extremadura region, and Arróniz
The tapas are more traditional —bread            from Navarra.
crumbs (migas) with fried eggs, for ex-               In total, Spain has more than 660 varieties that
ample— while the mini-creations are              are more or less fruity, sweet, bitter, strong, smooth,
another alternative. All this accompanied        spicy, etc., although the liquid always tastes like fresh
                                                 olives. And then there is a whole secondary range
by a good selection of wines and an              of enriching subtleties that evoke apple, lemon, pear,
attractive list of cocktails, currently so       almond, hazelnut, fresh grass... The Aceites de Pago
popular in Madrid.                               (www.aceitesdepago.com) have contributed greatly to
Hotel Aristos. Avda. Pio XII, 34                 the resurgence of this sector and to a greater offer in
                                                 quality. And there’s also LA Organic (www.laorganic.
Madrid                                           es), from designer Philippe Starck and oenologist
      www.elchaflan.com✍                         Michel Rolland.

                                                                                                        21
     Tapas

         AsiAnA nextdoor                                a lot of attention both in Gijón and
         The very special Asian-Peruvian                outside the northern city. Located in
         cuisine prepared by Jaime Renedo               the Hotel NH Gijón, it has brought the
         comes in the form of snacks served             gastrobar concept to a very traditional
         in a relaxed, modern, slightly rustic          area that has not developed much in the
         setting. There are such attractive dishes      culinary sense. Javier Loya, from a restaurant
         as the sea bass with yellow pepper and         family in the neighbouring Asturias region,
         wasabi, the different ceviches (citrus-mari-   offers vanguard cooking with clear Asturian
         nated seafood), the jasmine rice and —why      roots, excellent basic materials and careful
         not?— a certain Mediterranean touch with       preparation. All this is reflected in a menu
         the Ibérico ham or the Greek-style solterito   with tapas large and small or in the different
         with grilled octopus and black olives. The     set menus.The offer is rounded out with a
         desserts are European in style. A whole        select wine list, some fine cheeses, excellent
         range of aromas and flavours.                  cocktails and a magnificent terrace.
         Travesía de San Mateo, 4. Madrid               Hotel NH Gijón. Paseo Doctor
                                                        Fleming, 71. Gijón
         AvAnt gArden
         This place has been going for less             bAby grill rubAiyAt
         than a year but is already receiving           Belarmino Fernández, who has res-

22
taurants in different countries in            bArrA siete
South America, came to Spain and is           On Victoria Beach in Cadiz, this
now very successful with Baby Beef            relaxed establishment has mini-
Rubaiyat. After his success here, and in      malist decor and views of the
line with current fashions, he added this     sea. It’s a small, bright place with
small locale behind the main restaurant       a pretty semicircular bar and high
and separated by a large inner glass wall     tables for sampling a new and dif-
that makes it possible to watch activity in   ferent offer based on tapas and
the kitchen. Simple decor features wood       servings, with the culinary quality of
in the bar, tables and stools. When the       José Manuel Córdoba (of the Ven-
weather is good the terrace is used. The      torrillo el Chato establishment).
menu —including hot and cold bread-           Shrimp salads, rices served as tapas,
based tapas, full servings, salads and some   fried fish, Iberico cured ham prepared
meats— makes it possible to have an           in different ways, payoyo cheese... There
informal lunch or dinner with the quality     are good desserts and an appropriate
of the original Rubaiyat.                     wine list, short but well selected. Special
C/ Juan Hurtado de Mendoza, 11.               mention should be made of the good
Madrid                                        service, directed by Julián.
        www.rubaiyat.es✍                      Amilcar Barca, 17. Cadiz

                                                                                            23
     Tapas

         becerritA                                       burlAdero, el
         The surname Becerra is synony-                  Located next to the hall of the
         mous in Seville with good food                  Hotel Colón, this modern gastro-
         served in pleasant surroundings.                bar has become a meeting point
         Jesús María Becerra, the son of En-             for informal lunches and dinners.
         rique, is a good example of this. Any           It bears the stamp of Dani García (Cali-
         gourmet walking in the Ronda de                 ma – Marbella) in its offer of tapas and
         Capuchinos area should visit one of             cheeses served at the bar and at tables.
         the city’s most typical bars. Some typi-        Potato salad with tuna fish, Iberico ham
         cal local tiles provide the decor for some      products...
         traditional Andalusian tapas and serv-          Hotel Gran Meliá Colón. Canalejas, 1
         ings, accompanied by a wide selection           Seville
         of local wines. Potatoes garnished with          www.granmeliacolon.com✍
         virgin extra olive oil, bull tail croquettes.
         It can be argued whether this is really a       comerç 24
         gastrobar, but it doesn’t matter: its success   Carles Abellá was an outstanding
         is guaranteed.                                  student at the Barcelona Hostelry
         Recaredo, 9. Seville                            School, and after training at several
               www.becerrita.com✍                        restaurants, including El Bulli, he’s

24
                                                Acorn-fed Iberico cured ham, the king
                                                of Spanish food
                                                Pure acorn-fed Iberico cured ham is something magi-
                                                cal, whose quality is dependant on careful, traditional
                                                production methods. To learn everything about this
                                                wondrous world, the key reference book, for both its
                                                photos and text, is El jamón ibérico en la gastronomía del
                                                siglo XXI (Everest).
                                                     Four regulatory councils control the process in the
                                                four production areas.There are three Denomination of
                                                Origin (DO) controls: Dehesa de Extremadura (www.
                                                dehesa-extremadura.com), Guijuelo (www.i-guijuelo.
              opened his own place              com) and Jamón de Huelva (www.jamondehuelva.com),
              in Barcelona. He says it’s a      and one Specific Denomination, called Jamón de Los
               gastrobar that’s “like a tapas   Pedroches (www.jamondelospedroches.com).All of them
                                                guarantee the quality of the process.
               bar, with a bar and tables            There are some recommendations to guarantee the
               that offers the comfort of       most enjoyment of this special ham experience. If you
               a classic restaurant with an     buy a complete piece, it should be consumed within three
               elegant, cosmopolitan air.”      months; if not, it can become too dry and lose a large
                                                part of its aroma.As for the best way to cut it, this can be
               This is creative cuisine in      done either by hand or by a machine. Cutting by hand is
               miniature, very original and     always to be preferred, especially if this is done by a good
carefully prepared and presented in serv-       professional with the right kind of knife so as to bring out
ings that can be shared. He uses advanced       the ham’s true essence. And once it has been cut, the
                                                meat should be consumed quickly so as to maintain that
techniques and the highest quality in-
                                                magic moment, and always at room temperature. Pure
gredients. He has another locale, more          acorn-fed Iberico cured ham is a real delicacy; to bring
informal, called Tapas 24 (Diputación, 269.     out its enormous potential, it should be accompanied by
Tel. 934 880 977. Web: www.tapas24.net),        a good dry sherry from Jerez.
which is considered one of the best tapas            The best offer comes from Real Jamón (www.re-
                                                aljamoniberico.com). It presents the best quality from
bars in Barcelona.                              each DO, hand-cut by Florencio Sanchidrián (a ham
Comerç, 24. Barcelona                           ambassador to the world) and packed under optimum
      www.comerc24.com✍                         conditions in packets of 100, 50 or 25 grams.

                                                                                                           25
     Tapas

         el Atelier d’enrich                         el plAtó
         Víctor Enrich, a young and well-            This bright, modern functional and
         established chef, is backed up in           informal establishment is in the
         the dining room by his wife, María          heart of Madrid, near the Open-air
         Vega de Seoane. Following a refurbish-      Museum of Modern Art. There is
         ing, there are two different parts of the   a terrace for dining in fair weather, with
         restaurant: Enrich –a traditional, now      views of the studio of the Intereconomía
         smaller culinar y operation— and its        television channel. The cooking of Andrés
         new gastrobar, El Atelier, with a more      Armero, who is advised by Pedro Lar-
         carefree ambience and a pleasant ter-       umbe, is traditional, and is offered in full
         race. It has a bar offering food prepared   and half servings; the Iberico pork is special
         by Víctor, and served at a small number     (meatballs, hamburger, jaw). By night, the
         of tables. At both the bar and the tables   cocktail bar is full.
         there are servings to share along with      Paseo de la Castellana, 36. Madrid
         Víctor’s more traditional dishes, making             www.elplato.es✍
         it possible to eat at more affordable
         prices all day long.                        el sAlón de lA chimeneA
         Estafeta, 2. Plaza de la Fuente.            The Echaurren is the fullest expres-
         La Moraleja (Madrid)                        sion of cuisine in the Rioja region

26
of northern Spain, both in the tradi-         estAdo puro
tional cooking by Marisa and in the           Facing Madrid’s Plaza de Nep-
more modern version by her son                tuno on the ground floor of the
Francis Paniego. This is also a fine hotel.   Hotel NH Paseo del Prado is an
The town of Ezcaray is an important           establishment with three areas: a
centre for rural tourism and for skiers.      bar, a ground floor terrace, and a
This has led the Paniegos, in their efforts   dining room with a ceiling full of
to perfect their food and advance with        ladies’ ornamental combs. At this
the times, to create a new, less formal       gastrobar Paco Roncero is respon-
dining space: El Salón de la Chimenea,        sible for the cold tapas (for example,
a gastrobar that Francis defines as “the      potato salad with regañá bread) and
union between the traditional and the         the hot ones (brochette of pickled
modern, in the tapas version.” In other       pork), in addition to the salads (eel
words, all kinds of tapas and rations from    and pineapple with orange sauce),
both ways of cooking in a free-and-easy       hot and cold bread-based tapas, and
setting, but it’s only open at night.         sandwiches.
Hotel Echaurren. Padre José García, 19.       Hotel NH Paseo del Prado.
Ezcaray (La Rioja)                            Plaza Cánovas del Castillo, 4. Madrid
     www.echaurren.com✍                       www.tapasenestadopuro.com✍
                                                                                       27
     Tapas

         inopiA clAsic bAr                              l’AleznA tApAs
         Modern decor and a relaxed and                 Pedro Martino, along with the
         cosmopolitan ambience in a small               Villabrille brothers (of the Valles
         Barcelona locale where customers               del Oso cheese operation), cre-
         must wait their turn so as to avoid            ated this locale in the Barrio de
         crowding. It’s a good approach, and makes      Montecerrao in Oviedo for a wide
         it possible to enjoy the place and the food.   public. The luminosity and decor are
         Proprietors Joan Martínez and Albert           the perfect complement for the creative
         Adriá define it as “a classic Spanish bar”.    furniture. Even though Pedro Martino
         Everything revolves around the large bar,      has left, this is still a high-quality op-
         with the exception of a single table that      eration based on simple dishes very
         must be reserved.Traditional rations, tapas    carefully prepared from the best local
         and brochettes with the Adriá stamp. Po-       products. The result is a succulent selec-
         tato salad, anchovies in vinegar, homemade     tion of tapas and miniaturised cuisine,
         cured ham croquettes... An army of friendly    along with a good selection of wine
         waiters circulate along the bar taking cus-    and cheeses. Raúl Villabrille directs op-
         tomers’ orders.                                erations in the dining room and advises
         Tamarit, 104. Barcelona                        about wines.
               www.barinopia.com✍                       Celestino Álvarez, 5. Oviedo

28
                                                The rise of Spanish wines
                                                                                      Spanish wines are at
                                                                                      the top of their form.
                                                                                      Until recently, to speak
                                                                                      of Spanish wines was to
                                                                                      speak only of the Rioja
                                                                                      region (www.riojawine.
                                                                                      com), such as the Ama-
                                                                                      ren from Luis Cañas, or
                                                                                      of the Ribera de Duero
                                                                                      (www.riberadelduero.
                                                                                      es), such as the Loess
                                                                                      Collection. But today
                                                                                      there are Denomina-
                                                                                      tions of Origin all over
                                                                                      the country such as
                                                                                      Toro (www.dotoro.es),
                                                                                      Priorat (www.doqprio-
                                                    rat.org), Somontano (www.somontano.es), Bierzo
                                                    (www.crdobierzo.es) and Valdeorras (www.dovaldeor-
                                                    ras.com) among many others: they’re terroir or estate
                                                    wines of unquestionable quality. And it’s not just the
                                                    reds that are great: there are exceptional whites such
                                                    as those from the Rias Baixas (www.doriasbaixas.
                                                    com), with the notable Pazo de Señorans Selección
lA morAgA                                           from Añada, the Penedés area (www.dopenedes.es) or
                                                    the Rueda region (www.dorueda.com). Also Castile-La
In the centre of Malaga. Modernity                  Mancha with its Hipperia de Vallegarcía wines.
in the decor by José Luis Galán                         Today there are extraordinary wines from regions
and the cooking designed by Dani                    that had traditionally been of little interest: when
García (Calima–Marbella) and skil-                  looking for quality it’s time to go beyond the obvious
                                                    and seek out other parts, on both the peninsula and in
fully and precisely executed by Jesús               the islands. As for grapes, in addition to the permanent
Barrera. Cosmopolitan ambience in a                 success of Tempranillo or Verdejo there has been a re-
designer locale, with high stools and a             naissance in Mencía and Garnacha, and among outsiders
few tables, a wide bar-refrigerator display         such as Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon: they now seem
                                                    almost Spanish for the way they have adopted to our
with cold tapas (almost as if this were a           climate and soil.
pastry shop), and walls with glass cases                To learn about wines, one must sample a great va-
full of wines. Also hot dishes, croquettes,         riety of different offerings to discover new sensations,
fried items, stews...They’re all original and       and talk with other people who share our interest.
                                                    It’s also necessary to read about wines, because
nicely presented. In the same city there’s          this makes us want to sample them. The best way is
another Moraga, at the Corte Inglés de-             through the guidebooks, outstanding among which are
partment store, with similar characteris-           the Guía Repsol de los Mejores Vinos de España (www.
tics and commercial hours.                          guiarepsol.com), the Guía Peñín de los Vinos de España
                                                    (www.grupopenin.com) and La Guía Todovino (www.
Fresca, 12. Malaga                                  todovino.com), edited by Custodio López Zamarra.
       www.lamoraga.es✍
                                                                                                           29
     Tapas

         lA morAgA ibéricA                                le cAbrerA
         The moraga is a summer festival in               This recently opened establishment
         Malaga province that’s held on the               has quickly become one of the popu-
         beach, where families roast sardines             lar Madrid spots, a place to see and be
         on a spit. And that’s what Dani García           seen. Luis Galliussi has produced a modern
         is after in his establishments: that the visit   design for two different areas: on the lower
         be a party for the customer in a modern          floor, cocktails by bartender Diego Cabrera,
         and relaxed setting. A low bar and com-          a faithful follower of Arola in Barcelona and
         fortable seats allow for an informal meal        Madrid. On the street level, a tapas bar with
         without any uncomfortable barstools.             stools that is run by Benjamín Benssousan,
         There are also some tables. Behind the           the right-hand man of Sergi Arola, where
         bar, José Antonio Carmona successfully           diners enjoy Benjamín’s culinary offerings
         executes Dani’s creations with precision.        as uniquely designed by Sergi..
         Half-servings and individual tapas where         Bárbara de Braganza, 2. Madrid
         Ibérico pork is the star: little hamburg-
         ers, jaw in sauce, flamenquín... La Moraga       lizArrán
         Sweet was recently opened on the same            A different concept of informal
         street (Tel. 952 815 652).                       food based on tapas and bro-
         Ramón Areces, 1. Marbella (Malaga)               chettes, combining tradition and

30
imagination to make snacking a               nArru
surprising experience. This large            In its three years of existence, this
franchise chain is not only in Spain but     establishment has become a point
in the rest of Europe and on other           of reference in San Sebastián. Located
continents. Tapas and rations, both cold     in the heart of the Gros neighbourhood
and hot, of miniaturised Spanish cuisine:    close to Zurriola beach and the Kursaal
it’s based on quality raw materials, many    auditorium, it has modern, minimalist decor.
of them products with an appellation         There are two distinct areas: the restaurant
contrôlée. Spanish omelette, codfish,        itself, with a more extensive menu, and the
Andalusian squid... and all washed down      bar area.The latter, luminous and warm, has
with beers and wines. Rustic decor: bar,     high tables. Its tapas are the big attraction,
tables, stools and wooden chairs from        miniaturised cuisine based on the day’s
which to sip an aperitif or enjoy a tradi-   fresh products and presented on demand
tional meal in a casual setting.             in front of customers by the creative Iñigo
Comess Group de Restauración S.L.            Peña. To accompany them, there’s a good
C/ Enrique Granados 6. Edificio B.           selection of wines, which can be enjoyed by
Complejo Empresarial Imce.                   the glass. Efficient and attentive service.
Pozuelo de Alarcón (Madrid)                  Miguel Imaz, 10. San Sebastián
        www.lizarran.es✍                               www.narru.es✍
                                                                                              31
     Tapas

         óleo                                       simún
         Vicente Patiño has opened this             In the Cerro del Águila, facing
         place in front of the Museo de             the entrance to the Polígono
         las Atarazanas and next to the             Hytasa, is this Seville neighbour-
         headquarters of the America’s              hood spot that has been run
         Cup in the port. There are two             for 15 years by Paco Simún, of-
         separate areas. On the lower level,        fering coffee and toast in the
         a restaurant for more formal dining.       morning and a daily set menu
         At the entrance, a gastrobar, the first    for lunch. But now there’s a new
         to open in Valencia. It has an elegant     proposal for the evening: the gastro-
         bar and high stools for the informal       bar, where tapas are the star. Pablo
         consumption of some modern tapas           Jiménez, Paco’s son-in-law, prepares
         (which he calls ‘oleotapas’) made in       some vanguard offerings with a per-
         Vicente’s inimitable style, along with a   sonal touch, based on his extensive
         few more formal dishes and his des-        culinar y experience in Andalusian
         erts. All this washed down with some       kitchens. The basic ingredients are of
         wine by the glass.                         the highest quality, purchased in the
         Juan Antonio Benlliure, 9. Valencia        wonderful local market.
             www.restauranteoleo.com✍               Avda. Hytasa, 71. Seville

32
                                                  The importance of DOP and IGP
                                                  The Denominations of Protected Origins (DOP
                                                  in Spanish) and Protected Geographic Indications
                                                  (IGP) now represent almost 300 quality brands
                                                  throughout Spain. They recognise high quality, a
                                                  result of special characteristics that stem from the
                                                  special geography of the places they are produced
                                                  and the raw materials that go into the products.
                                                  These certifiers of approval are of many sizes, from
villA pArAmesA tApAs                              the wines of Rioja (www.riojawine.com), the Ribera
If you want something different from              del Duero (www.riberadelduero.es) or the Jerez
                                                  areas (www.sherry.org), to Manchego cheese (www.
the traditional Castilian roast baby              quesomanchego.es) or other tiny production areas
pig, this is a good informal alternative          that seek to survive. But each one has its place in
in Valladolid. It’s en establishment with         the sun, although some, for their small size, would
unique touches: fine crockery to present the      do better if they went hand-in-hand with other
                                                  neighbouring products through different initiatives
different taps, and wines by the glass served
                                                  that have been set in motion.
from magnums. José Ignacio Castrodeza,                This system to defend the quality of food and
who has a restaurant of the same name             produce is important, and is currently regulated
in Villanubla, is the man behind this charm-      by rules approved in 2006. So accustomed have we
                                                  become to the system that we often assume it has
ing locale, with its pleasing ambience and
                                                  been in place forever, when in fact this is a relatively
friendly attention.There is a fine selection of   new legal guarantee aimed at protecting the produc-
succulent servings, and designer tapas and        tion of some of Spain’s unique assets. In fact, the most
other traditional ones, all well prepared and     internationally accepted definition was not estab-
with his personal touch.They’re on view in        lished until 1985. The DOP and IGP (there are also
                                                  Specific Denominations and Guaranteed Traditional
a covered display case like jewels.               Specialities certifications) are meant to individualise
Calixto Fernández de la Torre, 5.                 merchandise based on its origin. In this way they help
Valladolid                                        preserve the personality and legacy of each region, in
    www.villaparamesa.es✍                         addition to bringing cultural benefits.


                                                                                                         33
     Tapas

         yebrA                                        Rafael Ansón
         Yebra has achieved something of a                           This guide was compiled by
                                                                     Rafael Ansón, founder and
         cult status for tapas in Seville. In a
                                                                     president of the Royal Spanish
         carefree and informal setting, its offers
                                                                     Academy of Gastronomy.
         spectacular tapas and servings, based on
                                                                     With the assistance of Javier
         the often unconventional preparation                        Carretero.
         of haute cuisine. Placed in the centre
         of the table, they can be shared among
         several diners. While the restaurant is
         off the usual tapas route in Seville, it’s
         worth the trip to get here. It is located
         in the Triana neighbourhood, just a few
         steps from the church containing one
         of the city’s most venerated religious
         images, La Macarena. There’s a notable
         wine cellar with a large selection.
         Medalla Milagrosa, 3. Seville



34

								
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