A CLEANER

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							Innovations



                        A CLEANER
                                                                ALT




                                                Canadian health authorities dis-                              employs more than 250,000
                                                agree with IARC, and don't                                    people, has taken steps to cut
                                                think the evidence is strong                                 back on perc usage. "Perchloro-
                                                 enough to label perc a human                               ethylene use in 1988 was
Liquid carbon dioxide (CO2) is getting seri-    carcinogen. Even so, cutting back on                      approximately 250 million
ous consideration as the dry cleaning fluid     perc seems to be a widely accepted                      pounds in the U.S.; in 1994 it was
of the future. With encouragement from          goal, even in Canada. The Ontario govern-       150 million pounds," says Mary Scalco,
the EPA's Design for the Environment pro-       ment has already proposed reducing work-        director of government relations for the
gram, liquid CO2 could replace per-             place exposure from 50 parts per million        International Fabricare Institute (IFI), the
chloroethylene-known as "perc" -today's         (ppm) during an 8-hour workday to 10            dry-cleaning trade association. She says
dry-cleaning solvent of choice. Perc, a chlo-   ppm.                                            improved technology is the primary reason
rinated hydrocarbon, has been linked to             While current regulations of the            for the decrease. And attempts to develop
cancer and other health problems.               Occupational Safety and Health Admini-          alternate methods in dry-cleaning are
    Based on animal studies and other data,     stration (OSHA) limit worker exposure to        being explored with the support of several
the International Agency for Research on        100 ppm, the agency is examining evidence       agencies, including the EPA, and industry.
Cancer (IARC) calls perc a probable             to see if the standard should be changed.
human carcinogen. The EPA puts the sol-         "There is a long-standing relationship          Liquid CO2
vent in the possible-to-probable category of    between the agency [OSHA], the dry-             One technology being investigated uses liq-
carcinogens.                                    cleaning industry, and public interest          uid carbon dioxide (CO2) as a dry-cleaning
    James Huff, a toxicologist with the         groups aimed at reducing exposure, says         solvent. Hughes Environmental Systems of
NIEHS, says perc-cleaned clothes pose vir-      Joseph Cotruvo, who oversees chemical           El Segundo, California, has developed a
tually no cancer risk to the wearers; the       screening and risk assessment at the EPA's      prototype dry-cleaning machine and process
amount of perc on such clothing is probably     Office of Pollution Prevention and Toxics.      called DryWash. The system, which uses
negligible. The NIEHS has reported, how-            The U.S. dry-cleaning industry, which       liquid CO2, was exhibited in Milan at an
ever, that rats exposed to perc                                                                           international dry-cleaning exposi-
vapors have an increased incidence `                                                                      tion in March. While the EPA's
of leukemia and kidney tumors,                                                                            Design for the Environment pro-
and mice similarly exposed have        g                                                                  gram hasnot funded research on
increased numbers of liver tumors.                                                                        liquid CO2, it has held confer-
Moreover, Huff says, epidemio-                                                                            ences and encouraged the
logical studies have linked perc-                                                                         exchange of information about its
contaminated drinking water to                                                                            potential.
increases in leukemia in an                                                                                     Sid Chao, president of
exposed population cohort and to                                                                            Hughes Environmental Systems,
increased urinary, bladder, and                                                                             says liquid CO2 doesn't have the
esophageal cancers in perc-exposed                                                                          environmental and health draw-
dry-cleaning workers. Other perc-                                                                           backs of perc. OSHA limits
related cancers include cervical                                                                            exposure of CO2 to 5,000 ppm
cancer   and non-Hodgkin's lym-                                                                      $/, ;§ for an 8-hour day.
phoma. Because of these data,                                                                                   Liquid CO2 for dry-cleaning
Huff believes occupational expo-                                                                            would come from industrial
sures to perc do present a hazard.                                                                          processes, including fermenta-
    Robin Hill, a risk manager at    What's ilina name? A new technology called DryWash uses liquid carbon tion and ammonia manufacture,
                                                                                                  d
Health Canada, says, that            dioxide t o clean clothes.                                             that produce CO2 as a waste


488                                                                     Volume 104, Number 5, May 1996 * Environmental Health Perspectives
                                                                                                   Innovations A Cleaner Bill of Health
                                                                                                                  -




product. The CO2 would be processed by           its prototype machine for the market. Chao         garment are comparable [with existing
a gas manufacturer and delivered to dry-         says the firm is planning to license the tech-     technology]?" wonders Wentz. He notes
cleaners in pressurized canisters, the same      nology to a manufacturer and estimates that        that liquid CO2 may have some economic
way it is delivered to restaurants.              the machines will be ready for sale by 1997.       factors in its favor. The shorter cleaning
     In dry-cleaning establishments, the liq-                                                       cycle means more garments can be cleaned
uid CO2 would be recycled after use and          Unfinished Work, Unanswered                        in less time. Furthermore, labor costs for
purified for reuse. The gas, though, would       Quesitions                                         finishing or pressing the garments may be
gradually escape into the atmosphere by          But research on the liquid CO2 cleaning            reduced, since the garments are cleaned at
adsorbing into clothes and leaking from          process is hardly complete. One problem            lower temperatures, which reduces wrin-
dry-cleaning drums when they are opened          Taylor is working on is the removal of pro-        kling. Such factors will help determine if
to remove clothes. Hughes officials empha-       teinaceous stains, such as grass stains, lip-      the liquid CO2 process will fit within the
size that its DryWash system does not cre-       stick, and chocolate. Dry cleaners currently       present dry-cleaning infrastructure, says
ate any new CO2. It captures and recycles        get rid of these stains by using surfactants       Wentz.
what is already produced. Although the           to pretreat the stains before the clothes go           If the DryWash machines prove too
exact amount of CO2 that would be recap-         into the dry-cleaning drums. The problem,          costly for individual "mom and pop" dry-
tured per cycle is considered proprietary        Taylor says, is that surfactants don't work        cleaners (which make up most of the dry-
information by Hughes, Jerome Barton, a          well in liquid CO2. He and his colleagues          cleaning operations in the United States,
scientist at the Los Alamos National             are working to modify the surfactants so           according to the EPA), the machines may
Laboratory (LANL) who has worked on the          they will.                                         find homes in central facilities, with cus-
liquid CO2 cleaning process, says that the           Another concern, voiced by Dale Spall,         tomers dropping their clothes off at store-
amount would be "far in excess of 90%."          a recently retired chemist who worked on           fronts or so-called "dry stores" to be taken
     Liquid CO2 would speed dry-cleaning,        liquid CO2 at Los Alamos, is that clothes          to the central facilities for cleaning. This is
says Chao. "Once the dry-cleaning is fin-        colored with vegetable dyes might shrink           already a trend in dry-cleaning, says Scalco.
ished, the clothes can be taken out and          when cleaned with liquid CO2.                      But this system may negate some of liquid
need no drying. Because of that there is a           While Spall praises the use of liquid          CO2's potential environmental advantage
shorter cycle time. We're looking at less        CO2 as innovative and says it shows a great        by causing increased fuel consumption and
than 30 minutes. The perc-based cycle            deal of potential, other dry-cleaning indus-       pollution from transporting the clothes,
time is 40 to 50 minutes," he says.              try specialists are cautious. Manfred              Wentz cautions. A life-cycle study of fac-
     Moreover, liquid CO2 can clean items        Wentz, vice president of research and              tors such as these would have to be done to
that perc-based systems can't, says Jack         development at R.R. Street and Company,            assess the advantage of liquid CO2 from an
Belluscio, CEO of Caled Chemical                 which makes and distributes dry-cleaning           environmental perspective.
Company, which makes dry-cleaning addi-          chemicals and additives, says additives have
tives and is a partner with Hughes in            to be developed to prevent stains removed          Wet-cleaning
developing the liquid CO2 process. Liquid        by liquid CO2 from being redeposited on            Wet-cleaning is another method being
CO2 can clean leather, suede, and fur,           clothes during the cleaning process. While         examined to replace perc. Highly touted by
which perc-based systems typically can't,        he says research of such additives is being        the environmental activist group Green-
says Belluscio. Also, unlike perc, liquid        pursued, "nothing has been adequately
CO2 won't dissolve sequins.                      documented yet. I think the problem can
      Since 1994, Hughes has been working        be overcome but it requires a systematic
to develop the liquid CO2 technology for         analysis of the liquid CO2 process." Chao
dry-cleaning under a Cooperative Research        disputes this statement: "Our technology is
and Development Agreement with the               such that it minimizes the redeposition of
LANL. Researchers at the LANL, funded            dirt. Our tests indicate that it is better than
by the Department of Energy and the              the perc process."
EPA's Environmental Technology                        Besides performance, other questions
Initiative, have been doing the basic and        remain about how a liquid C02-based sys-
applied research to determine how well           tem would fit into the operations of the
CO2 performs as a solvent. Because liquid        approximately 30,000 dry-cleaning estab-
CO2 is nonpolar, it dissolves organic com-       lishments in the United States.
pounds, including many materials that                 Cost is one crucial concern for dry-
commonly soil clothes, and releases them         cleaners. "Commercial dry-cleaning is not a
 from the surface of garments.                   high-profit business, and many dry-cleaners
     "We have found that CO2 is very effec-      are barely able to stay in business," states a
 tive in removing oils, greases, sweat, etc.,"    1995 EPA profile of the trade. Acording to
 says Los Alamos chemist Craig Taylor of          the EPA report, the cost to start up a dry
 the tests performed on swatches of clothes      cleaning business in 1993 was $113,000.
 in a 60-liter drum. "By using agitation, we          Scalco says that she's seen no informa-
 find that we get good removal of soils and       tion on the cost of liquid CO2 machines
 particulates." During the process, clothes       from Hughes, but "for liquid CO2 [to be a
 are soaked in a liquid CO2-filled drum.         viable option] you have to have equipment
 Then liquid CO2 is sprayed through noz-          that's affordable. That's probably the            High-tech soap and water. (left to right) Plant
 zles onto clothes to agitate them and            biggest thing right now."                         manager Ann Hargove, owner Noam Frankel, and
 remove dirt.                                         "Can we provide a system where the            project coordinator Jo Patton are testing a wet-
      Hughes doesn't plan to actually produce     unit costs per pound for producing a clean        cleaning method at The Greener Cleaner.


Environmental Health Perspectives * Volume 104, Number 5, May 1996                                                                            489
Innovations * A Cleaner Bill of Health


peace, this European-developed method
uses water and specially designed soaps
instead of solvents to clean clothes.
    The machines that do the cleaning are            EnvoncntGCnadi.: Pinalreport for the green dean project. OttwaEniroment
sophisticated washers and dryers in which
humidity, agitation, and heat are computer
controlled. "By controlling all those factors         ARMngahon ithe evalutin of carcinogic risk to humans, Vol63.
in a better way, it's possible to clean                T; achkhLyen& Lyon:lnternational Ageqr Research on Cancer, 19952;
                                                                                          y for
clothes with water that used to be dry-
cleaned," says Jack Weinberg, a campaign-            Phelps MR Hogan M , Snowden-Swant U,DBarton JC LaInt, Spll WI). Waste
er against toxic chemicals for Greenpeace.                         n usn carbnn di xi a: solvrent susiut o precisio ening -applica
    Wet-cleaning, or wet wash as it is                  Ctions4. Richand WAaii NrhetLbaoy; 1994.
                                                       0*




sometimes known, is used in Germany and              W tz              l      n w              &ix. Npiville, ILR.R Str & Co.,
Austria and has also been tried on a
demonstration basis in the United States
and Canada.                                          WeissNSCancerin relation tooccupational exposure toperchoroethene. Cancer
    With funding from the EPA, Green-                  Causes;f2:(5
                                                              Cnrl;60:257-;266 (1995)
peace, and the Center for Neighborhood
Technology (CNT) in Chicago have been
examining how well wet-cleaning cleans                 In Canada, a wet-cleaning demonstra-          exposure, the report stated.
clothes in a study with the Greener                tion project begun in 1994 and funded in               Wet-clean machines cost between
Cleaner, a private dry-cleaning business           part by the government reported that              $15,000 and $20,000, and dryers between
that has been operating since May 1995.            30-80% of garments currendy dry-cleaned           $4,000 and $18,000. The Canadian report
The study is part of an agreement between          can be satisfactorily wet-cleaned, a figure far   says the "initial investment in water-based
Greenpeace, the CNT, and the IFI to                greater than the 3-15% of clothes (exclud-        technology is considerably lower than for
assess perc alternatives.                          ing shirts) now cleaned in water at dry-          new perc equipment." The report, however,
    Jo Patton, CNT project director for the        cleaners. A report on the project, which          calls for more information on the financial
wet-cleaning demonstration, says the wet-          involved six cleaning facilities, concluded,      feasibility of using wet-cleaning technology.
deaner has successfully cleaned virtually all      however, that wet-cleaning "does not appear           Although perc is currently the dry-
garments brought to it, rejecting only about       to be a complete replacement for perc." The       cleaning solvent of choice, according to
one-tenth of a percent because tests at the        report also concluded that higher labor costs     Scalco, it's clear that governments, envi-
store showed that dyes would run. She says         may accompany wet-cleaning because wet-           ronmentalists, and the dry-cleaning indus-
wet-cleaning has been able to clean clothing       cleaned clothes can require increased hand        try are choosing to look for alternatives
made of wool, silk, rayon, cotton, and             finishing. Wet-cleaning does, however, offer      and ways to reduce its use.
blends of fabrics. Weinberg claims that even       decreases in electric and chemical use and
leather can be wet-cleaned satisfactorily.         removes the health problems linked to perc                                      Harvey Black



       The Coastal Society
          5eeking Balance: Conflict, Resolution and Fartnership
                                                    15th          internationaI Conference
                                                     July 14-17, 19,90
                                                   5eattle, Washington
                                                  Megan P. Bailiff, Conference Chair
                                                 The Coastal Society 15th nternational Conference
                                                 dlo Washington Sea Grant l2rogram
                                                 3716 Brooklyn Ave. NE
                                                Seattle, WA 9&1O5
                                                P'hone: (206) 6&5-110            Fax: (206) 6&5-03&O
                                                mmbailiff0u.washington.edu



490                                                                          Volume 104, Number 5, May 1996 * Environmental Health Perspectives

						
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