Innovation, Reliability, and Responsive Service
Mayberry Electric provides expert and reliable service to Atlanta’s leading property
managers and facility owners.
Your tenants deserve and demand the best. Meeting the specialized electrical needs of
commercial clients requires innovation, expert resources, and a dedication to safe, quality
work. Mayberry Electric provides electrical systems design and service with an
innovative approach, award-winning installations, and dedicated customer service.
Our company was founded by Atlanta native and Georgia Tech graduate Paul F.
Mayberry with the intent to provide superior electrical service to the greater Atlanta area.
Mayberry Electric has experienced remarkable growth since its establishment in 2000.
Our ongoing success is attributed to the hundreds of general contractors, property
managers and facility owners that have come to rely on our expertise, quality and full
service resources to meet their electrical project needs.
Engineering & Design
Our in-house engineering department provides complete turn-key design/build services
including AutoCAD design, stamped engineering plans, and electronic distribution of
information. Our professional engineers and installation staff understand the importance
of getting the job done right the first time, within budget, and under the safest condition
Power & Wiring Systems Installation
Mayberry specializes in assisting property manager with the electrical installation and
service work to keep tenants safe and satisfied. We provide design and installation of
lighting, power, distribution, emergency backup systems, as well as specialty systems for
fire alarm, security, voice and data. You can rely on our expertise to assist you with the
most functional and efficient design for your tenant buildout.
Service & Maintenance
Out maintenance and service program ensures that your facility and tenants continue to
experience the safest and most reliable electrical systems. Testing and electrical
maintenance services including cleaning, tightening, and torquing of all systems provided.
Emergency service is available 24 hours a day.
Commitment to Quality & Safety
As a strategic OSHA partner and winner of countless quality awards, you can trust your
electrical project to Mayberry. Out commitment to our clients is total satisfaction in the
safest possible environment. Depend on us to complete your project with professionalism
and absolute reliability.
The Associated General Contractors of America
Georgia Society of Professional Engineers
Full Service Resources
Very few firms have the complete resources and range of services you’ll find at
Mayberry Electric. From AutoCAD design and professionally stamped drawings by our
in-house engineers to the courteous and competent work of our installation staff, we are
equipped to handle event the largest, most complex electrical projects.
In-house engineers provide
Complete turn-key design
PE stamped drawings
Commercial installation for
Emergency backup systems
Low voltage solutions for
Design and install
Provide electrical testing for
Infared and Megger Systems
Torquing of electrical systems
Communications Wiring Certification
Electrical Maintenance services for commercial buildings including
Available 24 a day for emergency situations and service needs.
“Mayberry designed and built the entire electrical lighting, alarm system, and wiring for
our facility. The work was completed on time, affordably, and in a very professional
manner. I would highly recommend them to any type of contractor needing any type of
“…we selected Mayberry due to their excellent design, presentation, quotation, and
absolute excellence in completing the work according to schedule. I also appreciated their
caring attitude to make sure all of ours needs were met. A great organization!”
Expertise & Experience
Our team of in-house professional electrical engineers and dedicated installation staff
have the expertise and experience to ensure that your project is approached with
innovation and completed to you satisfaction.
2002 Best of Construction
Side Bar—Partial Client List
Atlanta Market Center
Bank of America Plaza
Equity Office Properties
One Atlantic Center
999 Peachtree Street
For more information, please contact us at:
our 24 hour emergency service line
**view map link with physical address**
Kryptonite: If it
will work for
you! We carry a
Locks full line of
Shifters shimano, LX,
Find out here...
Pedals carbon... get
the scoop on
Wheels arn all you
need to know
and get rolling
only have one
power do you
Brakes much money
do you have to
burn? Need a
WHICH SHOCK IS BEST FOR YOU?
Well, that can only be determined after a
lengthy conversation about you, your bike
and your riding habits. Give us a call or
stop in for more info on what might be the
right shock for you.
Until then, here's a run down on almost
everything you ever wanted to know about
shocks in general:
The amount the shock will move when the
rider normally sits on the bike (usually
A variable which controls how fast the
shock can move during rebound and/or
compression. Many shocks do not have the
ability to change damping but rather use
inherint qualities of absorbtion materials.
The starting point that the spring is at.
Almost all shocks has an ability to change
this force through adjuster knobs.
The medium used to control the shock
when the shock becomes active.
The amount of force needed to compress a
spring one inch.
Piece that connects upper legs to steerer
Spring materials can consist of steel
springs, elastomers, air, and a combination
of any of these three.
* Steel Spring offer the advantage of a
very responsive shock, which utimatly
helps keep the wheel on the ground. The
downside is that they are very heavy.
* Elastomer makes the shock a little slower
in the rebound and compression stage, but
is a lot lighter than a steel spring. It is,
however very much effected by the air
temperature and has less "feel".
* Finally, air. Air is in between steel and
elastomers in it's responsiveness. However
with air, the natural compression qualities
it offers makes it ideal for a shock. Air is
also the lightest medium for a shock to
(sag is a requirment used in the rear shock
A shock for the rear should have 1/8" to
1/4" of an inch of travel. Some shocks
offer an O-ring placed on the inner body or
shaft, this makes setup a breeze.
Otherwise it is nessesary to measure the
length of the shock from eye bolt to eye
bolt and subtract the difference when you
sit on it.
* With an air shock, it is a simple matter of
using more or less air to achive results.
* With the spring system, turning the
spring's collet will make this happen. If the
spring is turned more than four whole
turns, then it is a good idea to get a
heavier or lighter spring. Some rear shocks
offer the benefit of both systems and you
can then fine tune the other characteristics
of the shock as well as sag through this
Dampening simply means a shock is being
slowed in it's upward or downward travel
by a force other than the main spring
system. Dampening a shock's movement
can really change a bicycle's behavior.
Dampeners for the most part use an oil
sent through a tiny valve deep inside the
shock to control how fast the shock is
allowed to move. In rebound dampening,
the return movement of the shock is
affected. In the compression stage, the
downward stroke of the shock is affected.
Many shocks use a inert gas like Nitrogen
to compress the oil or send the shock back
up so it is NOT A GOOD IDEA to open the
shock up yourself.
Shocks use dampening to change how a
bike response over a given terrain. Many
single pivot designs like the Gary Fisher
Level Betty and F series really benefit from
dampening- especially compression. There
are high end shocks that allow the user
infinent adjustablity for the
compression,including locking out the
shocks downward movement- in effect
turning a full suspension into a hard tail.
Servicing your shock is critical in keeping
the performance and working of the shock
up to par. Most people don't realize that a
shock on a bike is not like that of a car-
you must service the damn thing a lot.
A shock should be looked at before every
ride. An air shock should be closely
checked and not ridden if it has lost air.
Shocks are in some cases very complicated
in the valving, so do not do an in-depth
breakdown unless you like doing a lot of
head scratching and "oh shits".
We like to check the wiper seals and get
the crap off them in addition to lubing the
shock with a non-teflon based lubricant. I
said non-teflon based because the internal
of some shocks use a teflon coated or
based whatever, that can swell and wear
out quickly when more teflon is introduced
to the mix. Try it on a frying pan and see
what happens (just not mom's good one).
I'd rather use a plain oil or grease and be
Some shock companies say every eight
hours a breakdown of xxx parts is
required. Sheckng bolts to the specified
tourqe is always good as is poping off the
wipers and cleaning in and around them.
Cycle Dynamics rebuilds more shocks from
lack of service than from heavy riding. If
you read one of your shocks manuals, it's a
good bet that the company has covered it's
ass and the shock has no decent warrenty.
So, we change oil and put new seals in and
do all the other crap ourselves because it's
a lot quicker and cheaper then sending the
shock back to the manufacturer for
Companies use gasses like Nitrogen
sometimes because it is not affected by
tempurature. We use air unless the person
races because the forces encountered in
most riding do not need gas but do just
fine with O2.
Unless, when you bought your bike, you
opted for the best of everything, your
shock can always be upgraded. And
chances are, that even if you did buy the
best you could get then, there is something
much cooler and well suited to you on the
market now. In upgrading your existing
shock, you can get dampeners, new
progressive rate steel springs or air kits to
change elastomers to air. For the rear, I'd
suggest you drop $200-$300 and get a
really nice shock that will not only change
your outlook on riding, but quite literally
"save your ass".
Still need more info? Give us a call
anytime, 203-226-3790, or send us an e-
Lighting systems have become an essential for those of us who
either can't wake up before we have to, or just don't have the
time to ride during the day. (damned work!)
Companies like Niterider have dominated the market in the last
few years with sophisticated lighting systems that can simulate
a cars low beams in their intensity.
We sell only Niterider because we believe they are the best
lights for the money. Here are some of the features that
Niterider has integrated into many of it's systems:
* Soft starting bulbs.
* 15 minute battery warning which reduces bulb output.
* Heavy duty bulbs with lead back.
* Plug-n-forget charging.
* SOS flashing.
* Rapid flashing.
* High intensity rear flashers.
* Nickel metal hydride batteries(high abuse and no memory)
* LED readout of battery power.
* Bulb indicator for dual beam (indicates which bulb is on
because when your riding you can't tell)
Digital pro 12 E plug-n-forget bar Elec. w/ 4 bar LED 12 w spot
& 20 w flood NiMh $329.00.
Classic 12 overnight bar 4 way switch 12 w spot & 20 w flood
Digital Pro 6 plug-n-forget bar or (helmet opt)Elec. w/ 4 bar LED
15 w spot NiMh $180.00.
Pro 6 overnightbar or (helmet opt)4 way switch 15 w spot NiMh
Head trip overnight helmet or (bar opt)integrated switch 10 w
spot NiMh $129.00.
Digital Head trip plug-n-forget helmet or (bar opt)integrated
elec. switch w/ 4 bar LED 10 w spot NiMh $179.00.
Digital Night Owl plug -n- forget bar or (helmet opt)integrated
elec. switch w/ 4 bar LED 15 w spot NiMh $219.00.
Night Owl overnight bar or (helmet opt) integrated switch 10 w
spot NiMh $145.00.
Trail Rat overnight bar or (helmet opt)integrated switch 10 w
spot NiCad $99.00.
Digital Pro 6 remote plug-n-forget bar or (helmet opt)remote
mount switch w/ 4 bar LED integrated into light shell 15 w spot
Although this discussion has focused on "high end" lights,
(over$75) keep in mind that there are many alternatives for
those on a budget. Contact us for more information.
So you bought a brand new bike and are worried...no, paranoid... about it getting
Can't blame ya really. That's a mighty hefty investment you shouldn't take for
But before you run off and purchase a lock, here are a few tidbits of information that
might come in handy.
* No lock will keep a really determined thief from getting your bicycle if they REALLY
* The heavier the lock the better it protects.
* Light duty locks, like cable locks, are good for low theft areas and quick trips.
* Locks that have multi-material cabling, like Specialized's Rappers are the toughest
to cut through with one tool, while solid bars take the longest time.
With this in mind, here are a few of our favorites:
1.Avenir Resettable Combination Lock
"keeps honest people honest"
2.Specialized Rapper Slim Combo
"Bigger, Stronger, Tougher"
"Stronger than a prenuptual"
SHIFTERS / GROUPS
Group Application Shift type
Speed Rear Gearing
Tourney Hybrid Twist or Rapid 6/7 call
Nexus hybrid Automatic/ Manual 3/4/7 call
Sora road STI W/Campy thumb 8 s,t,u,v,w
Tiagra road STI 9 call
105 road STI 9 12-23
Ultegra road STI 9 12-23
Dura-Ace road STI 912-23
C-101 hybrid Twist 711-34C-202 hybrid Twist 811-34
Nexave hybrid Push /8 call
Altus hybrid / mtb Rapid fire 6/7 ac
Acera hybrid/mtb Rapid fire 7/8 ac
Alivio hybrid / tb Rapid fire 8
LX *High end-mtb Rapid fire 9ar
XT *High end-mtb Rapid fire 9 q,ap,as
XTR* Super High end-mtb Rapid fire 9HG 11-32/12-34
* Products come with pre-specified combinations on complete bicycles.
9 speed cassettes
ar= 11-32 (11,12,14,16,18,21,14,28,32)
ap= 12-34 (12,14,16,18,20,23,26,30,34)
aq= 11-32 (11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32)
as= 11-34 (11,13,15,17,20,23,26,30,34)
For road combinations, shimano has 17 distinct cassttes and the most common is 12-
23. we will not list them all.
8 speed cassettes
an= 11-30 (11,13,15,17,20,23,26,30)
s= 12-21 (12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21)
t= 13-23 (13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23)
u= 12-23 (12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23)
v= 13-26 (13,14,15,17,19,21,23,26)
w= 12-25 (12,13,15,17,19,21,23,25)
7 speed cassttes
ac= 11-28 (11,13,15,18,21,24,28)
e= 12-28 (12,14,16,18,21,24,28)
h= 13-26 (13,15,17,19,21,23,26)
i= 13-23 (13,14,15,17,19,21,23)
j= 13-21 (13,14,15,16,17,19,21)
l= 12-21 (12,13,14,15,17,19,21)
m= 13-28 (13,15,17,19,21,24,28)
9 speed chains are 0.5mm narrower than 7/8 speed chains.
With Shimano chain pins, the silver pins are for 9 speed (6.5mm) while the black pin
(7.1mm) is for the 7/8 speed chains.
Sachs powerlinks do not fit shimano chains. Furthermore, the 9 speed power links are
narrower than the 7/8 speed links.
HG chain must not be used with IG cranks.
9 speed chains are HG only.
IG chains are ok for HG groups
front 9 speed derailuers are 0.6mm narrower than 7/8 speed.
Non- parrallax hubs cannot be used with 11 tooth cassettes.
Still need more info? Give us a call anytime.
Go Clipless... it's the only way to fly.
Riding clipless pedals is the best route to take when you
decide that you want that extra edge whenever you get on
Consider these points:
* light weight (the lighter the better)
* lateral movement(give fluidity when riding)
* power through the upstroke as well as down means twice
as much power and makes climbing a breeze (well, easier
* ability to recover better from possible falls or crashes
(clipping out, which becomes automatic, allows you to move
away from the twisting bike)
Clipless pedals should have what's called float, and if they
they are mountain bike pedals, they will be dual sided, not
single sided. Dual sided refers to being able to clip in on
SPD pedals were designed by Shimano and have been the
standard for mountain bikers for years now. Your choices are
many... LX, XT, XTR, XC or DH platform etc. There is an SPD
pedal for every budget, but remember, this is one part of
your bike that take a lot of abuse, especially in the woods, so
choose the best you can afford.
Look style refers to the elongated, single sided pedal system
prefered by road riders.
Some stranger pedals have come around and gain wide
acceptance by cyclist- SpeedPlay is one such company. Their
system is very unique due to the amount of float, their
weight and size.
The price for pedal systems vary, just like anything else,
depending upon the materials used, the over all weight and
the manufacturer. And, just like anything else, you get what
you pay for. Comfort, warmth, ability to withstand being
banged up and schleped through water, in addition to their
price, are your key considerations.
When considering going clipless, remember, you'll need to
tack on the price of those "special" compatable shoes. They
too come in all sizes, shapes and materials and colors...
decisions decisions!! Although they are all awakward to walk
in, Road shoes in particular, will make you walk like a
penguin- but hey, penguins are cool, right?
THE CYCLE DYNAMICS enCYCLOpedia of "wheely good"
definitions and basic facts you need to know.
Presta valve-the smaller non-car looking air valve.
the car tire looking vavle.
the guy on Saturday Night Live in addition to the cluster of
toothed rings on the back wheel.
same damn thing as sprocket but refering to the entire unit.
a tire that is phsically glued to the rim. Commonly know as a
sew up tire.
a tire that pushes against the side of the rim and uses air
pressure to stay in place.
the big metal hoop of the wheel.
the center part of the wheel that attaches to the bicycle and
also where the spokes are held on one end.
the part of the hub where the spokes come out of.
a "nut" that is made of brass or aluminum that holds and
tightens one side of the spoke. The nipple is usually found
protruding from the rim.
the holes on the rims where the spokes come out of. On
many rims, a brass sleeve is used to distribute the pulling
load of the spoke.
the centering of the rim in conjunction with the hub.
refrence to the changing thickness of a spoke throughout it's
length. Usually a spoke is either double butted (thinner in the
middle) or straight gauge (no change).
crossing spokes over one another.
adjusting the tension of the spokes to make the wheel
straight or true.
the torque place on the hub when pedaling or braking.
what a bunny rabbit does, or what you do on your bike over
small logs. Also refers to a part of the rim that is not round
but instead has a small bump in it.
SUPPORTING A LOAD:
A wheel is subject to two kinds of loads; static and dynamic.
Within these loads, forces of compression, tension and
torsion are all at work while riding. All of these forces would
very much like to rip apart the wheel. It is up to the hub, rim
and spokes to keep everything in it's place. While some
manufacturers opt for heavier-albiet stronger wheels, others
try to redefine the wheel and the roles each part play.
Spokes have been an intergal part of a wheel since it's
Metal has been a common element to use due to it's elasticity
and strength. Some companies have played around with
newer materials like vectran which is stronger along it's
longitudanal axis yet flexible enough to tie in a knot. Carbon
fiber has been very popular as well but must be carefully
A comon and cheap way to produce a spoke is to just roll a
continuous piece of metal out never changing it's diameter
and this is called a straight gauge spoke. The drawback to
this type is the weakest point is now where the spoke bends
(at the head). More likely than not, this type of spoke will
break at that bend.
When a spoke is butted, the diameter changes in certain
places along the length. The result is a stronger, lighter
spoke. Butting a spoke makes it stronger because the load
placed on the spoke gets drawn twoards the center and thus
reducing the stress placed on the head. A double or triple
butted spoke will never break at the head in a properly built
LACING OF SPOKES:
To achieve maximum strength from a rim, spoke, and hub;
overlapping of the spokes is nessesary. in the 32 hole, wheel
design, a triple cross pattern- or crossing one spoke over
three spokes going the opposing direction is a common
The reasoning behind crossing spokes is to keep the wheel
from winding up while under the torque of pedaling or
braking. If a wheel was able to twist along it's radial axis,
then we would loose efficency and the wheel would not last
We can get away with making different cross patterns and in
fact, can build a front wheel with a radial pattern.
Rims are a crucial part of a wheel, they help resist all types of
loads. Most rim designs are based on increasing sidewall
strength where the braking surface is, while others try to
incorporate the height or profile of the rim into the overall
strength. We have found the powerbeams in profile 1 above,
give the best strength to weight ratio of any rim.
has historically been a favorite material with major
manufacturers. It comes in 6000 (softer) and 7000
series.You can anodize it and make various areodynamic
shapes. Much cheaper to make than carbon fiber and
thermoplastic but it deforms easier.
wheels have become a very popular with people wanting
areodynamics and a unique looking wheel. Due to the fibers
strength along it's strand, it has extremly good properties
keeping the wheel true. However, the materials and cost
associated with it are also higher than a regular wheel.
Ceramic coating have been applied on many rims which only
helps in wet or very cold weather beause the ceramic heats
the pad and rim up quicker. In hot weather, ceramic rims
actually work worse than a non-coated rim.
Most quality rims on the market today have some sort of
ecting done to the surface to improve the surface contact
between rim and pad. The problem is, this surface wears out
in about a year and you are back to a regular smooth surface.
some hubs make clickety noises, some have generators or
internal gears and some just sit there like a bump on a log.
They all have a purpose of allowing the wheel to go around.
Hubs in general, are very strong and do their job very well.
However, certain applications like disc brakes and front
suspensions require that a hub becomes like Steve Austin in
the Six Million Dollar Man. Hubs dictate how a wheel will
behave and how the lacing of spokes will occur.
Many companies use what are refered to as "Cartridge
Bearings" which are basically replaceable bearings that come
in their own enclosure. The benefit to this design is ease of
service and less expensive manufacturing.
The other system incorporates the hub itself as part of the
surface that the bearings roll on. This type of system
thought, does need to be re-greased about every 5 years so
many companies have put in grease injection systems.
The part that connects the bike to the hub is the axle- like a
car. The centermost part of the hub (aside from quick
release) and needs to be very stong. Most axles are steel,
some are aluminum or titanium. With aluminum and
titanium, the rest of the hub must be strengthend to help
A normal sized skewer or quick release does just fine with
road bike and recreational riding. However, the overzealous
need the QR to be thicker and stronger. At Cycle Dynamics,
we have found a strong correlation between a oversized
skewer and the stiffness of a bike and wheel.