VIEWS: 5 PAGES: 4 POSTED ON: 9/18/2011
HOME PAGE Innovation, Reliability, and Responsive Service Mayberry Electric provides expert and reliable service to Atlanta’s leading property managers and facility owners. Your tenants deserve and demand the best. Meeting the specialized electrical needs of commercial clients requires innovation, expert resources, and a dedication to safe, quality work. Mayberry Electric provides electrical systems design and service with an innovative approach, award-winning installations, and dedicated customer service. ABOUT US Our company was founded by Atlanta native and Georgia Tech graduate Paul F. Mayberry with the intent to provide superior electrical service to the greater Atlanta area. Mayberry Electric has experienced remarkable growth since its establishment in 2000. Our ongoing success is attributed to the hundreds of general contractors, property managers and facility owners that have come to rely on our expertise, quality and full service resources to meet their electrical project needs. Engineering & Design Our in-house engineering department provides complete turn-key design/build services including AutoCAD design, stamped engineering plans, and electronic distribution of information. Our professional engineers and installation staff understand the importance of getting the job done right the first time, within budget, and under the safest condition possible. Power & Wiring Systems Installation Mayberry specializes in assisting property manager with the electrical installation and service work to keep tenants safe and satisfied. We provide design and installation of lighting, power, distribution, emergency backup systems, as well as specialty systems for fire alarm, security, voice and data. You can rely on our expertise to assist you with the most functional and efficient design for your tenant buildout. Service & Maintenance Out maintenance and service program ensures that your facility and tenants continue to experience the safest and most reliable electrical systems. Testing and electrical maintenance services including cleaning, tightening, and torquing of all systems provided. Emergency service is available 24 hours a day. Commitment to Quality & Safety As a strategic OSHA partner and winner of countless quality awards, you can trust your electrical project to Mayberry. Out commitment to our clients is total satisfaction in the safest possible environment. Depend on us to complete your project with professionalism and absolute reliability. Side Bar—Associations BOMA The Associated General Contractors of America NECA Georgia Society of Professional Engineers SERVICES Full Service Resources Very few firms have the complete resources and range of services you’ll find at Mayberry Electric. From AutoCAD design and professionally stamped drawings by our in-house engineers to the courteous and competent work of our installation staff, we are equipped to handle event the largest, most complex electrical projects. Design/Build Services In-house engineers provide Complete turn-key design AutoCAD design PE stamped drawings Electrical Power Commercial installation for Lighting Power Distribution Emergency backup systems Premise Wiring Low voltage solutions for Voice/data BICSI member Special Systems Design and install Fire Alarm Security Card Access Testing Provide electrical testing for Infared and Megger Systems Torquing of electrical systems Communications Wiring Certification Maintenance Electrical Maintenance services for commercial buildings including Lighting Distribution Bussway Premise Wiring Emergency Services Available 24 a day for emergency situations and service needs. Side bar—testimonials “Mayberry designed and built the entire electrical lighting, alarm system, and wiring for our facility. The work was completed on time, affordably, and in a very professional manner. I would highly recommend them to any type of contractor needing any type of electrical services.” “…we selected Mayberry due to their excellent design, presentation, quotation, and absolute excellence in completing the work according to schedule. I also appreciated their caring attitude to make sure all of ours needs were met. A great organization!” PORTFOLIO Expertise & Experience Our team of in-house professional electrical engineers and dedicated installation staff have the expertise and experience to ensure that your project is approached with innovation and completed to you satisfaction. Awards 2002 Best of Construction Side Bar—Partial Client List Atlanta Market Center Bank of America Plaza Peachtree Center Piedmont Center Perimeter Center Equity Office Properties Lakeside One Atlantic Center Ravinia Equitable Buildings CISCO Facilities 999 Peachtree Street Suntrust Plaza SAFECO Clarion Properties Childress Klein Contact us: For more information, please contact us at: 404.799.3334 1.800.ATL.ELEC firstname.lastname@example.org our 24 hour emergency service line 1234567890 **view map link with physical address** night riding requires Lights precision lighting. Check out our systems here... Kryptonite: If it works for Superman, it will work for you! We carry a Locks full line of locking systems to meet your needs... Road or Mountain, grip shift or Shifters shimano, LX, XT, XTR... what's hot, what's not? Find out here... Platform, baskets, clipless, DH, titanium, Pedals carbon... get the scoop on the latest technology here... Wheel sets, tires, spokes, lacing, disc compatable...le Wheels arn all you need to know and get rolling today. ANSI certification, proper fit, ventalation, Helmets postioning, padding... You only have one head...use it wisely! How much stopping power do you need? How Brakes much money do you have to burn? Need a brake? Read on... WHICH SHOCK IS BEST FOR YOU? Well, that can only be determined after a lengthy conversation about you, your bike and your riding habits. Give us a call or stop in for more info on what might be the right shock for you. Until then, here's a run down on almost everything you ever wanted to know about shocks in general: SHOCK SAG: The amount the shock will move when the rider normally sits on the bike (usually 1/8-1/4") DAMPING: A variable which controls how fast the shock can move during rebound and/or compression. Many shocks do not have the ability to change damping but rather use inherint qualities of absorbtion materials. PRELOAD: The starting point that the spring is at. Almost all shocks has an ability to change this force through adjuster knobs. SPRING: The medium used to control the shock when the shock becomes active. SPRING RATE: The amount of force needed to compress a spring one inch. CROWN: Piece that connects upper legs to steerer tube. SPRING MATERIALS Spring materials can consist of steel springs, elastomers, air, and a combination of any of these three. * Steel Spring offer the advantage of a very responsive shock, which utimatly helps keep the wheel on the ground. The downside is that they are very heavy. * Elastomer makes the shock a little slower in the rebound and compression stage, but is a lot lighter than a steel spring. It is, however very much effected by the air temperature and has less "feel". * Finally, air. Air is in between steel and elastomers in it's responsiveness. However with air, the natural compression qualities it offers makes it ideal for a shock. Air is also the lightest medium for a shock to use. SETTING SAG (sag is a requirment used in the rear shock not front) A shock for the rear should have 1/8" to 1/4" of an inch of travel. Some shocks offer an O-ring placed on the inner body or shaft, this makes setup a breeze. Otherwise it is nessesary to measure the length of the shock from eye bolt to eye bolt and subtract the difference when you sit on it. * With an air shock, it is a simple matter of using more or less air to achive results. * With the spring system, turning the spring's collet will make this happen. If the spring is turned more than four whole turns, then it is a good idea to get a heavier or lighter spring. Some rear shocks offer the benefit of both systems and you can then fine tune the other characteristics of the shock as well as sag through this manner. DAMPING Dampening simply means a shock is being slowed in it's upward or downward travel by a force other than the main spring system. Dampening a shock's movement can really change a bicycle's behavior. Dampeners for the most part use an oil sent through a tiny valve deep inside the shock to control how fast the shock is allowed to move. In rebound dampening, the return movement of the shock is affected. In the compression stage, the downward stroke of the shock is affected. Many shocks use a inert gas like Nitrogen to compress the oil or send the shock back up so it is NOT A GOOD IDEA to open the shock up yourself. Shocks use dampening to change how a bike response over a given terrain. Many single pivot designs like the Gary Fisher Level Betty and F series really benefit from dampening- especially compression. There are high end shocks that allow the user infinent adjustablity for the compression,including locking out the shocks downward movement- in effect turning a full suspension into a hard tail. SERVICE /UPGRADES Servicing your shock is critical in keeping the performance and working of the shock up to par. Most people don't realize that a shock on a bike is not like that of a car- you must service the damn thing a lot. A shock should be looked at before every ride. An air shock should be closely checked and not ridden if it has lost air. Shocks are in some cases very complicated in the valving, so do not do an in-depth breakdown unless you like doing a lot of head scratching and "oh shits". We like to check the wiper seals and get the crap off them in addition to lubing the shock with a non-teflon based lubricant. I said non-teflon based because the internal of some shocks use a teflon coated or based whatever, that can swell and wear out quickly when more teflon is introduced to the mix. Try it on a frying pan and see what happens (just not mom's good one). I'd rather use a plain oil or grease and be safe. Some shock companies say every eight hours a breakdown of xxx parts is required. Sheckng bolts to the specified tourqe is always good as is poping off the wipers and cleaning in and around them. Cycle Dynamics rebuilds more shocks from lack of service than from heavy riding. If you read one of your shocks manuals, it's a good bet that the company has covered it's ass and the shock has no decent warrenty. So, we change oil and put new seals in and do all the other crap ourselves because it's a lot quicker and cheaper then sending the shock back to the manufacturer for servicing. Companies use gasses like Nitrogen sometimes because it is not affected by tempurature. We use air unless the person races because the forces encountered in most riding do not need gas but do just fine with O2. Unless, when you bought your bike, you opted for the best of everything, your shock can always be upgraded. And chances are, that even if you did buy the best you could get then, there is something much cooler and well suited to you on the market now. In upgrading your existing shock, you can get dampeners, new progressive rate steel springs or air kits to change elastomers to air. For the rear, I'd suggest you drop $200-$300 and get a really nice shock that will not only change your outlook on riding, but quite literally "save your ass". Still need more info? Give us a call anytime, 203-226-3790, or send us an e- mail. Cycle Dynamics Lighting systems have become an essential for those of us who either can't wake up before we have to, or just don't have the time to ride during the day. (damned work!) Companies like Niterider have dominated the market in the last few years with sophisticated lighting systems that can simulate a cars low beams in their intensity. We sell only Niterider because we believe they are the best lights for the money. Here are some of the features that Niterider has integrated into many of it's systems: * Soft starting bulbs. * 15 minute battery warning which reduces bulb output. * Heavy duty bulbs with lead back. * Plug-n-forget charging. * SOS flashing. * Rapid flashing. * High intensity rear flashers. * Nickel metal hydride batteries(high abuse and no memory) * LED readout of battery power. * Bulb indicator for dual beam (indicates which bulb is on because when your riding you can't tell) * Model-Charger-type. * Mount-switch-type. * Bulb. * Battery. OPTIONS: Digital pro 12 E plug-n-forget bar Elec. w/ 4 bar LED 12 w spot & 20 w flood NiMh $329.00. Classic 12 overnight bar 4 way switch 12 w spot & 20 w flood NiCad $239.00. Digital Pro 6 plug-n-forget bar or (helmet opt)Elec. w/ 4 bar LED 15 w spot NiMh $180.00. Pro 6 overnightbar or (helmet opt)4 way switch 15 w spot NiMh $149.00. Head trip overnight helmet or (bar opt)integrated switch 10 w spot NiMh $129.00. Digital Head trip plug-n-forget helmet or (bar opt)integrated elec. switch w/ 4 bar LED 10 w spot NiMh $179.00. Digital Night Owl plug -n- forget bar or (helmet opt)integrated elec. switch w/ 4 bar LED 15 w spot NiMh $219.00. Night Owl overnight bar or (helmet opt) integrated switch 10 w spot NiMh $145.00. Trail Rat overnight bar or (helmet opt)integrated switch 10 w spot NiCad $99.00. Digital Pro 6 remote plug-n-forget bar or (helmet opt)remote mount switch w/ 4 bar LED integrated into light shell 15 w spot NiMh $190.00. Although this discussion has focused on "high end" lights, (over$75) keep in mind that there are many alternatives for those on a budget. Contact us for more information. So you bought a brand new bike and are worried...no, paranoid... about it getting stolen? Can't blame ya really. That's a mighty hefty investment you shouldn't take for granted. But before you run off and purchase a lock, here are a few tidbits of information that might come in handy. * No lock will keep a really determined thief from getting your bicycle if they REALLY want it. * The heavier the lock the better it protects. * Light duty locks, like cable locks, are good for low theft areas and quick trips. * Locks that have multi-material cabling, like Specialized's Rappers are the toughest to cut through with one tool, while solid bars take the longest time. With this in mind, here are a few of our favorites: 1.Avenir Resettable Combination Lock "keeps honest people honest" 2.Specialized Rapper Slim Combo "Bigger, Stronger, Tougher" 3.Specialized Wedlock "Stronger than a prenuptual" SHIFTERS / GROUPS Shimano Group Application Shift type Speed Rear Gearing Tourney Hybrid Twist or Rapid 6/7 call Nexus hybrid Automatic/ Manual 3/4/7 call Sora road STI W/Campy thumb 8 s,t,u,v,w Tiagra road STI 9 call 105 road STI 9 12-23 Ultegra road STI 9 12-23 Dura-Ace road STI 912-23 C-101 hybrid Twist 711-34C-202 hybrid Twist 811-34 Nexave hybrid Push /8 call Altus hybrid / mtb Rapid fire 6/7 ac Acera hybrid/mtb Rapid fire 7/8 ac Alivio hybrid / tb Rapid fire 8 Deore LX *High end-mtb Rapid fire 9ar XT *High end-mtb Rapid fire 9 q,ap,as XTR* Super High end-mtb Rapid fire 9HG 11-32/12-34 * Products come with pre-specified combinations on complete bicycles. 9 speed cassettes ar= 11-32 (11,12,14,16,18,21,14,28,32) ap= 12-34 (12,14,16,18,20,23,26,30,34) aq= 11-32 (11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32) as= 11-34 (11,13,15,17,20,23,26,30,34) For road combinations, shimano has 17 distinct cassttes and the most common is 12- 23. we will not list them all. 8 speed cassettes an= 11-30 (11,13,15,17,20,23,26,30) s= 12-21 (12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21) t= 13-23 (13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23) u= 12-23 (12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23) v= 13-26 (13,14,15,17,19,21,23,26) w= 12-25 (12,13,15,17,19,21,23,25) 7 speed cassttes ac= 11-28 (11,13,15,18,21,24,28) e= 12-28 (12,14,16,18,21,24,28) h= 13-26 (13,15,17,19,21,23,26) i= 13-23 (13,14,15,17,19,21,23) j= 13-21 (13,14,15,16,17,19,21) l= 12-21 (12,13,14,15,17,19,21) m= 13-28 (13,15,17,19,21,24,28) NOTES: Chains 9 speed chains are 0.5mm narrower than 7/8 speed chains. With Shimano chain pins, the silver pins are for 9 speed (6.5mm) while the black pin (7.1mm) is for the 7/8 speed chains. Sachs powerlinks do not fit shimano chains. Furthermore, the 9 speed power links are narrower than the 7/8 speed links. HG chain must not be used with IG cranks. 9 speed chains are HG only. IG chains are ok for HG groups front 9 speed derailuers are 0.6mm narrower than 7/8 speed. MISC: Non- parrallax hubs cannot be used with 11 tooth cassettes. Still need more info? Give us a call anytime. Go Clipless... it's the only way to fly. Riding clipless pedals is the best route to take when you decide that you want that extra edge whenever you get on your bike. Consider these points: * light weight (the lighter the better) * lateral movement(give fluidity when riding) * power through the upstroke as well as down means twice as much power and makes climbing a breeze (well, easier anyway) * ability to recover better from possible falls or crashes (clipping out, which becomes automatic, allows you to move away from the twisting bike) Clipless pedals should have what's called float, and if they they are mountain bike pedals, they will be dual sided, not single sided. Dual sided refers to being able to clip in on either side. SPD pedals were designed by Shimano and have been the standard for mountain bikers for years now. Your choices are many... LX, XT, XTR, XC or DH platform etc. There is an SPD pedal for every budget, but remember, this is one part of your bike that take a lot of abuse, especially in the woods, so choose the best you can afford. Look style refers to the elongated, single sided pedal system prefered by road riders. Some stranger pedals have come around and gain wide acceptance by cyclist- SpeedPlay is one such company. Their system is very unique due to the amount of float, their weight and size. The price for pedal systems vary, just like anything else, depending upon the materials used, the over all weight and the manufacturer. And, just like anything else, you get what you pay for. Comfort, warmth, ability to withstand being banged up and schleped through water, in addition to their price, are your key considerations. When considering going clipless, remember, you'll need to tack on the price of those "special" compatable shoes. They too come in all sizes, shapes and materials and colors... decisions decisions!! Although they are all awakward to walk in, Road shoes in particular, will make you walk like a penguin- but hey, penguins are cool, right? THE CYCLE DYNAMICS enCYCLOpedia of "wheely good" definitions and basic facts you need to know. PRESTA VALVE: Presta valve-the smaller non-car looking air valve. SCHRADER VALVE: the car tire looking vavle. SPROCKET: the guy on Saturday Night Live in addition to the cluster of toothed rings on the back wheel. CASSETTE: same damn thing as sprocket but refering to the entire unit. TUBULAR TIRE: a tire that is phsically glued to the rim. Commonly know as a sew up tire. CLINCHER TIRE: a tire that pushes against the side of the rim and uses air pressure to stay in place. RIM: the big metal hoop of the wheel. HUB: the center part of the wheel that attaches to the bicycle and also where the spokes are held on one end. FLANGE: the part of the hub where the spokes come out of. NIPPLES: a "nut" that is made of brass or aluminum that holds and tightens one side of the spoke. The nipple is usually found protruding from the rim. EYELET: the holes on the rims where the spokes come out of. On many rims, a brass sleeve is used to distribute the pulling load of the spoke. DISH: the centering of the rim in conjunction with the hub. BUTTING: refrence to the changing thickness of a spoke throughout it's length. Usually a spoke is either double butted (thinner in the middle) or straight gauge (no change). LACING: crossing spokes over one another. TRUING: adjusting the tension of the spokes to make the wheel straight or true. WINDUP: the torque place on the hub when pedaling or braking. HOP what a bunny rabbit does, or what you do on your bike over small logs. Also refers to a part of the rim that is not round but instead has a small bump in it. SUPPORTING A LOAD: A wheel is subject to two kinds of loads; static and dynamic. Within these loads, forces of compression, tension and torsion are all at work while riding. All of these forces would very much like to rip apart the wheel. It is up to the hub, rim and spokes to keep everything in it's place. While some manufacturers opt for heavier-albiet stronger wheels, others try to redefine the wheel and the roles each part play. SPOKES Spokes have been an intergal part of a wheel since it's inception. MATERIALS: Metal has been a common element to use due to it's elasticity and strength. Some companies have played around with newer materials like vectran which is stronger along it's longitudanal axis yet flexible enough to tie in a knot. Carbon fiber has been very popular as well but must be carefully used. BUTTING: A comon and cheap way to produce a spoke is to just roll a continuous piece of metal out never changing it's diameter and this is called a straight gauge spoke. The drawback to this type is the weakest point is now where the spoke bends (at the head). More likely than not, this type of spoke will break at that bend. When a spoke is butted, the diameter changes in certain places along the length. The result is a stronger, lighter spoke. Butting a spoke makes it stronger because the load placed on the spoke gets drawn twoards the center and thus reducing the stress placed on the head. A double or triple butted spoke will never break at the head in a properly built wheel. LACING OF SPOKES: To achieve maximum strength from a rim, spoke, and hub; overlapping of the spokes is nessesary. in the 32 hole, wheel design, a triple cross pattern- or crossing one spoke over three spokes going the opposing direction is a common practice. The reasoning behind crossing spokes is to keep the wheel from winding up while under the torque of pedaling or braking. If a wheel was able to twist along it's radial axis, then we would loose efficency and the wheel would not last as long. We can get away with making different cross patterns and in fact, can build a front wheel with a radial pattern. RIMS: Rims are a crucial part of a wheel, they help resist all types of loads. Most rim designs are based on increasing sidewall strength where the braking surface is, while others try to incorporate the height or profile of the rim into the overall strength. We have found the powerbeams in profile 1 above, give the best strength to weight ratio of any rim. MATERIALS: ALUMINUM: has historically been a favorite material with major manufacturers. It comes in 6000 (softer) and 7000 series.You can anodize it and make various areodynamic shapes. Much cheaper to make than carbon fiber and thermoplastic but it deforms easier. CARBON FIBER: wheels have become a very popular with people wanting areodynamics and a unique looking wheel. Due to the fibers strength along it's strand, it has extremly good properties keeping the wheel true. However, the materials and cost associated with it are also higher than a regular wheel. BRAKIING SURFACES: Ceramic coating have been applied on many rims which only helps in wet or very cold weather beause the ceramic heats the pad and rim up quicker. In hot weather, ceramic rims actually work worse than a non-coated rim. Most quality rims on the market today have some sort of ecting done to the surface to improve the surface contact between rim and pad. The problem is, this surface wears out in about a year and you are back to a regular smooth surface. HUBS some hubs make clickety noises, some have generators or internal gears and some just sit there like a bump on a log. They all have a purpose of allowing the wheel to go around. HUB DESIGN: Hubs in general, are very strong and do their job very well. However, certain applications like disc brakes and front suspensions require that a hub becomes like Steve Austin in the Six Million Dollar Man. Hubs dictate how a wheel will behave and how the lacing of spokes will occur. BEARINGS: Many companies use what are refered to as "Cartridge Bearings" which are basically replaceable bearings that come in their own enclosure. The benefit to this design is ease of service and less expensive manufacturing. The other system incorporates the hub itself as part of the surface that the bearings roll on. This type of system thought, does need to be re-greased about every 5 years so many companies have put in grease injection systems. AXLES: The part that connects the bike to the hub is the axle- like a car. The centermost part of the hub (aside from quick release) and needs to be very stong. Most axles are steel, some are aluminum or titanium. With aluminum and titanium, the rest of the hub must be strengthend to help transfer loads. SKEWERS: A normal sized skewer or quick release does just fine with road bike and recreational riding. However, the overzealous need the QR to be thicker and stronger. At Cycle Dynamics, we have found a strong correlation between a oversized skewer and the stiffness of a bike and wheel.
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