How to Drill Out a Hoppe Mortise Lock (If Deadbolt will not Retract) by allaboutdoors


More Info                                                           Published 12/9/2009

                           How to Drill Out a HOPPE Mortise Lock

                For Questions or Concerns, please refer to All About Doors & Windows

Note: These instructions pertain specifically to HOPPE single point mortise locks.

If you operate the thumb turn and the dead bolt will not retract, you can try working the dead bolt
back with a putty knife (This is assuming the other locking points have been retracted in the handle
operation). If this doesn't work, see the instructions below:

Recommended tools:

   •   Bent needle nose pliers
   •   Cordless drill, with drill bits and Phillips
       screw driver tip.
   •   Stiff punch for prying pin
   •   Small metal chisel
   •   Hammer

Because of the security of this lock system, the process of drilling out the cylinder to fix the dead bolt
will destroy the bottom gear and maybe the cylinder. Call ahead and have a replacement at your site.
Remember to get the correct finish when asking for the cylinder so it matches the rest of your lock.

               All About Doors & Windows     |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714                                                         Published 12/9/2009

   1. Remove the handles and trim/escutcheon plates from door.

   2. Remove the cylinder by drilling out its screw. This is done by drilling next to the cylinder, right
      through the cylinder screw that holds it in place. To do this you drill through the lockcase cover
      and the screw at the bottom of the cylinder until the head of the screw breaks off. If the screw is
      not completely drilled out, you can put a chisel on what is left and break the material with a
      hammer. Since there is still some material hanging outside the cylinder you will need to pull the
      cylinder out the side that was just drilled. This way the material does not get caught on or in the

   3. Drill out the pin that holds the actuator arm. This should allow the arm to release. Using your
      needle nose pliers, pull the actuator arm out of the lock through the cylinder hole.

   4. Depending on the manufacturers route for the cylinder hole you may or may not be able to see
      the slot for the dead bolt pin. If you can see the slot you can take your punch and pry the pin
      back see diagram. If you can't see the pin, use your new replacement gear to see which side of
      the door the slot will be on. Then mark the distance, 5/8” (16 mm), up from the top of the
      cylinder hole (from the actual hole in the lockcase not the hole you've made in the door). Drill
      into the door until you hit the lockcase. Remember that the hole has to be straight above the
      cylinder hole cutout so you can make sure the backplates (Escutcheons from the handle) cover
      the hole you make. You should now be able to pry the pin back.

             All About Doors & Windows     |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714                                                          Published 12/9/2009

   5. You should now be able to push down on the handles and open the door. If the pin does not
      want to move or you can not get you punch behind the pin to move it. You can drill into the
      dead bolt. The dead bolt is stainless, so drilling will only put a small countersink in it. You can
      then use the dent as a point to pry on with the punch.

              All About Doors & Windows     |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714                                                             Published 12/9/2009

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             All About Doors & Windows       |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714

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