Weekend Getaways

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Weekend Getaways Powered By Docstoc
Expedient Elegant
Here are 18 weekend destinations
that transport your soul (but not
    your body) far, far away.
(Clockwise from
top) Dive into
your vacation at
The Inn at
Bowman’s Hill;
indulge in pool-
side spa treat-
ments at The
Equinox Resort &
Spa; the luxurious
Van Cortlandt
suite at the Inn at
Monteverde; Sea
Crest By the Sea
with its wrap-
around porch is
so close to the
beach you can
smell the salt air.
             ow that the warm weather is here, every week offers a new vaca-
             tion option. Whether you want a restorative, romantic, or active
             adventure, all you need is a set of wheels (a convertible would be
 nice), and perhaps a traveling companion, to escape the everyday. Don’t be
 afraid of the distances. A few hours of scenic driving can put you in a differ-
 ent state of mind—as well as a different state. And you won’t have to hire a
 house-sitter, stop your mail, or even empty the fridge to get far, far away. Rose
 Ciccone, associate editor of the BedandBreakfast.com Report, an online
 newsletter offering a comprehensive B&B directory, database, and reservation
 network, and a contributing editor to the guidebook series, America’s Favorite
 Inns, B&Bs and Small Hotels (St. Martin’s Press), chose ten of her favorite
 destinations for you and your loved ones to enjoy. And our in-house avid trav-
 elers, Features Editors Nancy L. Claus and Laurie Yarnell, weighed in with
 eight more getaways. So put the top down and let’s go!

                              [Pennsylvania]                      massive stone fireplace and
           THE INN AT BOWMAN’S HILL                               tables for two. Mike’s her-
                          NEW HOPE, PA
                                                                  itage is reflected in his offer-
                                                                  ing of a traditional English
THE INN AT BOWMAN’S HILL IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES YOU’LL            breakfast (eggs, bacon,
want to return to again and again, not only to enjoy the inn’s sausage, sautéed potatoes,
charm, elegance, and hospitality, but also to experience it dur- mushrooms, baked beans,
ing the different seasons. After announcing ourselves at the fried bread, and fried toma-
inn’s black wrought-iron gate, my husband, Frank, and I fol- toes). If you prefer some-
lowed the driveway down to the beautiful stone English-style thing lighter, fresh fruit,
manor house. The grounds of the one-year-old inn are lovely yogurt, and cereals are set
with lanterns lining the driveway and flower baskets overflow- out with the fresh brewed
                               ing with blooms. Adjacent to the coffee and hot tea service.          The formal terrace overlooks
  E X PE D I E N T             main house is a carriage house        Each luxurious guest            the pool, pond, and gazebo
                                                                                                     at the Inn at Bowman’s Hill.
        E S C A PE S           fronted by a walled English suite is uniquely decorated
                               courtyard. Innkeeper Michael       with family pieces, artwork,
                               Amery, who hails from the U.K., and period reproductions, complemented by flat-screen TVs,
designed and laid every stone in this courtyard himself. Wall DVD players, and Bose CD/radios. King featherbeds, down pil-
planters, lanterns, and benches surround the center fountain lows, luxurious bedding, gas fireplaces, and individually con-
that, he says, is a nod to his wife Lynne’s Italian ancestry. trolled thermostats add to the comfort of the rooms. The
(Lynne was recently awarded the Spirit of Hospitality upholstered custom-made headboards are stunning. The
Innkeeper of the Year award for 2006 by the                                      exquisite Italian-tiled bathrooms, featured in
Pennsylvania Tourism and Lodging Association.)                                   every guest room, have oversized whirlpool tubs,
The conservatory abounds with orchids,                                           comfy bathrobes, thick towels, heated towel racks,
bougainvillea, and other tropical plants that can                                and an assortment of toiletries.
be enjoyed along with the cascading waterfall.                                      Frank and I stayed in the Pond Vista Guest
    The formal terrace at the rear of this beautifully                           Room in the Carriage House, which has a com-
landscaped property overlooks the pool as well as             ★                  mon area on the second floor with a fireplace,
the pond and a lovely gazebo. In season, breakfast            NEW HOPE, PA       ample seating, and a chest filled with board
is served outdoors or under an arbor on the vine                                 games. A typically thoughtful touch is the side-
terrace. When the weather cools, breakfast is served                             board, holding individual tea trays you can take to
in a cozy, wood-paneled, pub-like room with a                                    your room. Set for two, each tray has a hotpot, an

assortment of teas, individual coffee bags, and sweet-     lent dining recommendations. Mike and Lynne sug-
eners. A small refrigerator holds bottled water, cheese,   gested Marsha Brown’s Creole Kitchen on Main Street
and creamer.                                               in New Hope. We were not disappointed. Note, how-
   This is a charming retreat for a getaway—either a       ever, that parking in town can be tough, with meters
weeklong or a weekend-short. The artsy and charm-          active until very late in the evening, year round. Bring
ing New Hope and Lambertville areas offer much to          lots of quarters!
do. Shop at the boutiques and antique stores and visit        ■ THE INN AT BOWMAN’S HILL, 518 Lurgan Rd., New
the galleries; in season, the Bucks County Playhouse       Hope, PA; (215) 862-8090; $295-$455; 6 rooms (including
has wonderful theatre events. Peddler’s Village, a         two suites); www.theinnatbowmanshill.com.
shopping and entertainment complex housed in a
charming, 18th-century-style country village, is a                 GLASBERN COUNTRY INN
short ride from town in nearby Lahaska, Bucks                                  FOGELSVILLE, PA
County. Take a walk or bike the towpath along the
canal and work up an appetite.                             LOCATED NEAR ALLENTOWN, AN OLD STEEL-MINING
   One great thing about staying at fine B&Bs: you         town made famous by the Billy Joel song, Glasbern, a
can always count on the innkeepers to give you excel-      35-room inn, is perfect for relaxing and unwinding,

                                                                                                 WESTCHESTER MAGAZINE   ■   JUNE 2006   |   73
enjoying fine dining and luxury lodgings. The inn comprises           The contemporary American menu is outstanding, and the
several buildings, including the original 19th-century post-          wine list is exceptional. The restaurant is open seven nights,
and-beam barn, a farmhouse, and out-buildings, which were             but on Saturday evenings a prix-fixe menu only is served ($55
renovated by owner Al Granger after he acquired the farm              per person).
property in 1985. In recent years, several other Pennsylvania            In the morning, a hearty farm breakfast is served. Come
barns were moved to the property, where they were recon-              hungry. Start with the continental buffet that includes juice,
structed and now provide a variety of accommodations.                 fresh fruit, sweet home-baked breads, cereals, and yogurt. Your
    Each of the buildings is distinct. The Carriage House,            choice from the featured hot entrées of Belgian waffles, eggs, or
Farmhouse, Gate House, Pack House, and Stables all have               omelets, is brought to your table.
suites, some bi-level. The Garden Cottage is private with a spa-         ■ GLASBERN COUNTRY INN, 2141 Pack House Rd., Fogelsville,
cious living room and high ceilings. The Barn, which has large        PA; (610) 285-4723; $130-$450; 35 rooms; www.glasbern.com.
standard rooms on the first floor and rooms with whirlpools or
patios on the lower level, is where the Glasbern’s charmingly
rustic restaurant is located.                                                                 [New Jersey]
                                  We stayed in the bi-level                         SEA CREST BY THE SEA
                              Farmhouse suite which features a                                 SPRING LAKE, NJ
                              living room on the first floor, com-
                              plete with a wood-burning fireplace     SEA CREST BY THE SEA IS A CHARM-
                              and a large whirlpool tub for two       ing Victorian inn at the Jersey shore
       ★                      (robes and oversized towels are pro-    that has always made it to the top of
                              vided). The adjacent sitting room       my “Best Porch” list, for good rea-
                              has a wet bar and a TV/DVD.             son. The wrap-around porch offers
                              The slate floors are heated, a nice     comfortable seating in a quiet neigh-
                              amenity come wintertime. Beautiful      borhood and is so close to the water              ★
                              French doors open to a lovely private   that you can smell the ocean from it.            SPRING LAKE, NJ
patio with wrought-iron tables and chairs from where you can          And the inn is only a half-block
look out onto a vast expanse of green. The bedroom and bath           from one of New Jersey’s finest
are up a short staircase; and just in case you and your partner       beaches (Spring Lake is four
can’t agree on what to watch, there’s a second television in the      towns—and just four miles—south of Asbury Park).
bedroom.                                                                  Since taking ownership several years ago, owners Barbara
    But I’d strongly suggest leaving        E X PE D I E N T           and Fred Vogel have enhanced Sea Crest by reducing the num-
the set off. Instead, take advantage        E S C A PE S               ber of guest rooms in order to make the accommodations
of the beauty that’s right outside                                     more spacious and luxurious. Today, each of the eight guest
your door. In the winter, the assort-                                  rooms has a large bath, a whirlpool for two, and a fireplace.
ment of evergreens is stunning. Weeping hemlocks and large            Decks and steam showers were also added to some suites. All
holly bushes bright with berries stand out against the back-          have comfortable bedding, either Swedish DUX beds or feath-
ground of snow. In spring and summer, you can enjoy the               erbeds that you can just sink into. The luxurious bed linens are
perennial gardens and the inn's organic vegetable garden. (The        by Frette. My husband and I enjoyed the ocean views from the
veggies grown there come freshly picked onto your breakfast           deck of our room, the Captain’s Quarters.
and dinner plates, and the pasture-raised meat comes from the             All of the rooms have TVs and VCRs, some have DVD play-
farm.) In addition to an outdoor pool and hiking trails, an on-       ers, plus refrigerators stocked with an assortment of beverages,
site fitness center is available.                                     including spring water and a chilled bottle of wine. Luxurious
    If you have the urge to do more than just relax, not to worry.    robes and slippers are provided; towels are large and fluffy, and
A thirty-minute drive will take you to the outlet capital of          an array of fine amenities await in the bathroom. And for good
Reading. Or, if you’d rather be taken back in time, consider a        measure, each room beckons with a box of Godiva chocolates.
day trip to the Lancaster area to experience the Amish and            Can you say, “Pampered?” I found the information book in the
Mennonite cultures. Or, if you’re up for an adventure, go for a       room to be delightful—a warm welcome with restaurant
hot-air balloon ride or hunt for antiques.                            reviews and recommendations based on visits by the innkeep-
    And, come evening, make sure to bring back a hearty               ers and their staff, information on where to find bicycles, beach
appetite. The restaurant, with its glorious 28-foot-tall cathe-       towels, etc., as well as information on area attractions. Barbara
dral ceiling and exposed beams, has a wonderfully intimate            and Fred even included photos of their staff with short bios and
feel. At dinner, the room appears to be lit by just the glow          stories about each employee.
from candles on the table and, in winter, from the fireplace.            Tea is served every afternoon beginning at 4 with a wide
On every table, flower arrangements and pewter plates are set.        assortment of homemade desserts prepared by the inn’s chef.

               Luxurious two-level
               suites at the Glasbern
               Country Inn feature
               romantic wood-burning
               fireplaces, spacious
               seating areas, and
               private whirlpools in
               the upper-level lofts.

[YOUR DESTINATION]                                                                           Cheese, crackers, and fresh fruit are
                                                                                             offered along with yummy cakes and pas-
                                                                                             tries. Afternoon tea at inns is not to be
                                                                                             missed; in addition to all the treats offered,
                                                                                             teatime is usually the most social time of
                                                                                             the day. We had a very convivial group of
                                                                                             visitors from several states—we wished
                                                                                             we’d been staying longer so we could have
                                                                                             gotten to know them better. Early morning
                                                                                             coffee is available at 7:30; my advice is to
                                                                                             take a cup out on to the porch and enjoy
                                                                                             the ocean breeze, weather permitting.
                                                                                             Breakfast is buffet style with several hot
                                                                                             dishes (our favorites: Belgian waffles,
                                                                                             English bangers, and a delicious potato
                                                                                             casserole), fresh-baked scones, specialty
                                                                                             breads, fresh fruit, yogurt, and cereals,
                                                                                             along with juice, coffee, and tea.
                       MYSTIC MARRIOTT HOTEL AND SPA                                            Spring Lake is a charming seaside town
                                      GROTON, CT                                             with a two-mile long boardwalk—all com-
                                                                                             mercial free!—overlooking a pristine beach.
Yes, it’s a Marriott, but it houses a renowned Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa, an              Borrow a bike from the inn or walk and
indoor pool, a fitness center, and a Starbucks franchise.
                                                                                             explore the town. The architecture is beauti-
BEST ITINERARY: Spend the day outdoors, the late afternoon in the spa, and your
                                                                                                                       ful, and you may
evening dining and relaxing. The Seaport (www.visitmysticseaport.com), with its                                        run into a celebrity
                                                                                           E X PE D I E N T            or two: Mary
historic tall ships is a must-see. You can get there by foot—or, better still, by kayak-
ing along the winding Mystic River (www.ctcoastalkayaking.com). If you’re more into              E S C A PE S          Higgins Clark has
sailing, hop on the Argia (www.voyagermystic.com), an authentic replica of a nine-                                     her home here, as
teeth-century gaff-rigged schooner. Bring your own bottle of wine; they provide the          does, I’m told, Katie Couric. Divine Park sur-
cheese, fruit, and crackers. Sit back and enjoy the sunset (and the sight of those lean
                                                                                             rounds Spring Lake (the lake is actually
and lanky lads scampering up and down the masts). Choose a half-day, full day, or
sunset tour. Oenophiles will want to visit the Jonathan Edwards Winery (860-535-0202;
                                                                                             spring-fed), and the path around affords
www.jedwardswinery.com) with its spectacular panoramic views of the Connecticut              lovely lake views. Enjoy the variety of shops
shoreline, and taste the latest vintages. But, no matter what, don’t return home with-       and galleries along Third Avenue.
out befriending a Beluga whale at the Mystic Aquarium (www.mysticaquarium.com).                 When you are ready for dinner, you will
You need to reserve a time in advance. Then you’ll don brown rubber waders to keep           find several wonderful restaurants in the
warm in the ice-cold water (whales are very well insulated with blubber). They’re huge.      area, from a casual waterside fish market to
They’re friendly. And they feel a lot like firm, smooth rubber.
                                                                                             upscale dining at a beachfront café. We
WHERE/WHAT TO EAT: The hotel’s Octagon Restaurant, voted best in the state by
                                                                                             chose to dine at a new favorite, the Black
Connecticut Magazine, specializes in steak; you can even watch your meal being               Trumpet, which, like many restaurants in
grilled to perfection on its sixteen-foot open-flamed grill. Perhaps a chili-garlic-         the area, does not serve alcoholic bever-
rubbed bone-in rib eye or a pepper-crusted tenderloin or a grilled New York strip            ages, but you are welcome to BYOB. We
steak. Natives rave about the blueberry pancakes and omelets at Kitchen Little               took along our bottle of wine from the inn;
(81 1/2 Greenmanville Ave., Mystic, 860-536-2122) and the burgers and other pub              our dinner cost $125, including our tip.
food at the Voodoo Grill (12 Water St., Mystic, 860-572-4422). Near the aquarium,
                                                                                                When you return from your evening’s
appropriately enough, is Go Fish (27 Coogan Blvd., Olde Mistick Village 22, 860-
536-2662), with seafood served every which way from raw to blackened to fried.
                                                                                             activities, you will find an assortment of
                                                                                             cordials in the dining room, along with an
BY THE WAY: Unless your tastes run to scrimshaw doodads and Mystic T-shirts, skip            evening treat. We enjoyed the hand-made
the shops at Olde Mistick Village and head into the downtown area, which has lots            pecan candy, fresh cookies, and biscotti in
more personality and interesting places to explore.                                          front of the fire in the parlor. In warmer
                                                                                             weather, we’d recommend that wonderful
THE DETAILS: Mystic Marriott Hotel and Spa, 625 NORTH RD., RTE. 117, GROTON, CT
                                                                                                ■ SEA CREST BY THE SEA, 19 Tuttle Ave.,
HOURS ) Rooms at the Marriott range from $239-$269, suites $400-$900, and pack-
ages from $299-$599.                                                                         Spring Lake, NJ; (800) 803-9031; $310-$490; 8
                                                                         —NLC                rooms; www.seacrestbythesea.com.

            THE FAIRTHORNE B&B
               AND COTTAGE
                       CAPE MAY, NJ

Historic District with 600 restored and preserved
Victorian structures, many of which have been converted
to bed and breakfasts. One of the loveliest is the
Fairthorne, ideally located within walking distance of both
the beach, the Washington Mall, and many restaurants.
    Built in 1892 by a whaling captain, the Colonial
Revival home, with its leaded stained-glass windows, has
been converted into a gracious inn, which houses to six
guest rooms that are romantic and comfortable without
being fussy. The wall coverings used throughout the inn
are lovely, and the Victorian furnishings exquisite. The
beautifully decorated and appointed rooms in the main
building and adjacent cottage all have private baths, air
conditioning, televisions, and VCRs; most rooms have
gas or electric fireplaces. Our queen-size sleigh bed had
a comfy mattress enhanced by beautiful linens.
Bathrooms are light and airy; in addition to fluffy towels
and hair dryers, luxurious bathrobes are provided.
    Early-rising guests can enjoy coffee at 6 am. A
candle-lit breakfast is served at
two seatings—the first begins
at 8:30—in the dining room at
a large communal table. The
Fairthorne’s signature breafast
includes fruit, muffins, juice,
coffee, tea and an entrée. The                                Sit a spell on the
                                              CAPE MAY, NJ
entrée of the day when we vis-                                rocking-chair porch at
                                           ★                  the Fairthorne B&B
ited was perfectly prepared                                   before or after you
eggs Benedict. After breakfast,                               enjoy afternoon tea.
we poured ourselves another

                                                                     cup of coffee and enjoyed it on the expansive veranda while we
                                                                     planned our day.
                                                                        A trolley- or carriage-ride tour of town is a wonderful way to
                                                                     learn your way around “the Cape,” as it is called by locals Cape
                                                                     May. The tours originate from Washington Commons (corner of
                                                                     Ocean Street and the entrance to the Washington Mall) and are
                                                                     sponsored by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts (MAC).
                                                                        Cape May’s beach has been ranked one of the top ten in
                                                                     America. You can walk over to the 1859 Cape May lighthouse,
                                                                     not far from the inn, climb its 199 steps, and enjoy the
                                                                     panoramic view of the Jersey Cape, the southernmost tip of
                                                                     New Jersey, where the Delaware River meets the Atlantic Ocean.
                                                                     The lighthouse is located on the grounds of Cape May Point
                                                                     State. If you’d rather save your energy for other sports—say
                                                                     dining—you can just enjoy the lighthouse from the beach and
                                                                     grounds of the park.
                                                                        About that other sport? You can begin it rather early, around
                                                                     3:30, when afternoon tea is served. Do sample Diane’s cheese

                                                                                                WESTCHESTER MAGAZINE   ■   JUNE 2006   |   77
                                                                                                                       all year long, as is the adjacent
                                                                                                                       Beautiful Impressions rubber stamp-
                                                                                                                       ing gift shop.
                                                                                                                           Shelley’s flair for design is evident
                                                                                                                       in the guest rooms as well as in the
                                                                                                                       common areas. Fresh flowers and
                                                                                                                       dried arrangements are used
                                                                                                                       throughout the house. The room col-
                                                                                                                       ors, the hand stenciling, the wallpa-
                                                                                                                       per, and the fabrics enhance the peri-
                                                                                                                       od décor. Guest rooms are tastefully
                                                                                                                       furnished with romantic four-poster
                                                                                                                       or canopy beds, fireplaces, and com-
                                                                                                                       fortable seating. All rooms have cable
                                                                                                                       TV, wireless Internet, and phones
                                                                                                                       with data ports and Jacuzzi. My
                                                                                                                       favorite room is the Library with its
                                                                                                                       deep red-accented walls, white wood-
                                                                                                                       work, and a working fireplace original
  The James Soda Fountain & Gallery in the Deacon Timothy Pratt House, with its marble counter, was lovingly restored.
                                                                                                                       to the building.
                                                                                                                           Beverages and cookies are avail-
spread and chocolate-chip cookies. What about dinner? Ask                                                               able during the day, and sherry is set
innkeepers Ed or Diane. They’ll be happy to offer suggestions                                                           out in the dining room in the
and provide menus from local restaurants. They’ll also make                                                             evening. You will find books and
the reservations.                                                                                                       magazines in the parlor. During
   ■ THE FAIRTHORNE, 111 Ocean St., Cape May, NJ, (609) 884-                                                            milder weather, take advantage of the
8791 or (800) 438-8742; $140-$280; 9 rooms; www.fairthorne.com.                                           ★             expansive grounds with pretty
                                                                                                                        gardens, inviting sitting areas, ham-
                             [Connecticut]                                                       OLD SAYBROOK, CT       mocks, and a handsome two-
      Deacon Timothy Pratt Bed & Breakfast                                                                              century-old maple tree with swing.
                             OLD SAYBROOK, CT                                                                              Breakfast is served by candlelight
                                                                                                                        in the elegant dining room. The glass
WHEN WE FIRST MET SHELLEY NOBILE, WE WERE IMPRESSED doors of the original built-in corner cupboard expose the fine
with this young woman who gave up a career as an electrical engi- china and crystal used at breakfast. The inn’s culinary trained
neer to pursue her love of history, antiques, and decorating. She chefs prepare breakfast and snacks. We enjoyed a wonderful
purchased the Deacon Timothy Pratt House, a historic (c. 1746) assortment of baked goods that included muffins and rosemary
center-chimney Colonial home in 1995, and immediately began focaccia bread served with homemade orange butter. We started
restoration. The many fine original details include wide-plank with fresh fruit cups, and our entrées, crêpes topped with
wood floors with hand-forged nails,                                                      caramelized bananas, were delicious.
exposed hand-hewn beams, wain-                       E X PE D I E N T                        The Deacon Timothy Pratt House and the James Soda
scoting, and seven working fireplaces.               E S C A PE S                        Fountain & Gallery are located in the historic district of Old
When Shelley opened her B&B, it                                                          Saybrook, on gas-lit Main Street, within walking distance of
featured just three guest rooms, but                                                     shops and restaurants. Old Saybrook is a small New England
she has since expanded it to seven, including three in the adjacent seacoast town bordered by both the Connecticut River and the
building, the James Soda Fountain & Gallery, originally part of the Long Island Sound. The inn is only a mile from the beach, and
Pratt Tavern owned by Deacon Timothy’s brother, which she a short drive will take you to area attractions that include Mystic
restored and opened to guests in 2001.                                                   Seaport, casinos (Foxwoods—see page 107—and Mohegan
   This dynamic young woman has received accolades from Sun), and the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat. Shelley has area
local residents for both restoration projects. The soda foun- maps and will assist in planning a scenic walking tour and
tain, with its original 1896 marble counter, operated late into coastal bicycle trips. She can also help with restaurant recom-
the 20th century and was eventually turned into an art gallery. mendations and reservations.
Shelley has kept the soda fountain and the art gallery intact,                               ■ THE DEACON TIMOTHY PRATT BED & BREAKFAST, 325 Main
while renovating the rest of the building and adding guest St., Old Saybrook, CT, (860) 395-1229 or (800) 640-1195; $120-$220;
accommodations. The soda fountain and art gallery are open 7 rooms; www.pratthouse.net.

                                                                          [YOUR DESTINATION]
                   THE INN AT WESTON
                             WESTON, VT

Weston (listed on the National Register of Historic Places), provides
(1) a romantic setting, (2) lovely rooms, and (3) gourmet dining—a
perfect recipe for a delicious Vermont getaway, thanks to innkeepers
Bob and Linda Aldrich along with Scott Hendricks, who are won-
derful hosts.
    After checking in, my husband and I were pleased to partake in
the afternoon tea set out in the well-stocked library. We were duly
impressed by the expansive grounds with views of the West River
                            and with Adirondack chairs conveniently
                            available for relaxing. The inn is comfort-
                            ably elegant from the common areas to
                            the spacious guest rooms. Many of Bob
              ★             Aldrich’s beautiful orchids find their way             FOXWOODS RESORT CASINO
        WESTON, VT
                            from the greenhouse to the inn. Fresh                             MASHANTUCKET, CT
                            flowers and plants can be found just
                            about everywhere. Be sure to ask for a        A 6.7 million-square-foot gambling mecca including 1,416
                                                                          guest rooms in three separate hotel buildings.
                            tour of the greenhouse; it contains one of
                            the largest (and most breathtaking) pri-      THE ITINERARY: Gambling, of course. There are six casi-
                            vate orchid collections in the Northeast.     nos—or 7,400 slot and poker machines, nearly 400 gaming
    The inn is within walking distance of the famous Vermont              tables offering seventeen different games, racebook, keno,
Country Store, well-known for its Vermont-made products, and              and the world’s largest bingo hall. This is the world’s
shops that feature Christmas collectibles and home furnishings.           largest resort casino. Not into gambling? You can spend
Nearby is the Weston Playhouse located on the village green, which,       the day at the spa or shop at one of the twenty retail stores
                                                                          lining the indoor concourse, or you can just watch everyone
during the summer season, presents summer-stock theater. For a
                                                                          else lose, win, and lose again at the tables or the machines.
real treat, take the short drive to the famous Weston Priory, a           Come nighttime, catch a show (you won’t know it’s night by
Benedictine monastery, where the Brothers, touted for their beauti-       anything other than your watch; the casino is completely
ful music, welcome visitors.                                              indoors and shut in). Among the acts booked this summer:
    We did just that and returned to the inn for dinner in the darling    LeAnn Rimes, Deep Purple, Don Rickles, Howie Mandel,
main dining room. Chef Michael Kennedy’s dishes are both innova-          and the Commodores.
tive and delicious. We loved everything—the pesto flatbread with
                                                                          WHAT/WHERE TO EAT: The food at Foxwoods is surpris-
tomatoes, spinach, red peppers, and fresh mozzarella; the tender, lus-
                                                                          ingly good. The better bet restaurants: Paragon
cious steak; and the sweet sea scallops. The award-winning wine list is   (Continental), Al Dente (Southern and Northern Italian
excellent. Live piano music accompanied dinner, which made the            gourmet), and Cedars Steak House. Expect to pay $20 to
experience even more romantic. The restaurant’s bar is cozy and has a     $50 per person for dinner. And late Sunday morning, join in
separate pub menu for casual dining. But in the summer, I’d               a casino ritual: feast on the all-you-can-eat Champagne
recommend the Gazebo, a perfect setting to enjoy a cocktail or a meal.    brunch (11 am-3 pm; $42 per person; kids 4 to 12, $21).
    Accommodations are located in the Main Inn, the Coleman               You won’t be hungry again until Desperate Housewives.
House, and the more expensive Carriage House. The rooms each
                                                                          BY THE WAY: Make all your dinner-, show-, and spa-
offer a variety of amenities; some have whirlpool tubs, fireplaces,       service reservations well beforehand on the website or by
and TV/VCRs. Our room, the Peabody in the Main Inn, was                   phone. And, while no one under 21 is permitted on the
lovely with a private deck for warm weather and a fireplace for           casino floor, the 7,000+ square-foot Tree House arcade
chilly nights.                                                            has plenty to keep kids occupied.
    Early risers can take wake-up mugs of coffee back to their rooms,
while a multi-course breakfast with several entrée offerings is served    THE DETAILS: Foxwoods Resort Casino, Route 2,
                                                                          Mashantucket, CT; (800)-FOXWOODS/442-1000; www.
in the dining room later each morning. Take my advice and don’t do
                                                                          foxwoods.com. (DISTANCE FROM WHITE PLAINS: 115 MILES;
without an order of the homemade blueberry pancakes.                      2 1/4 HOURS. Rates depend on room size and night of stay—
   ■ THE INN AT WESTON, Scenic Rte. 100, Weston, VT; (802) 824-6789;      anywhere from $99-$485.
$185-$385; 13 rooms; www.innweston.com.                                                                                           —LY

                                                                                             WESTCHESTER MAGAZINE     ■   JUNE 2006   |   79
                                                                                            THREE MOUNTAIN INN
                                                                                                        JAMAICA, VT

                                                                                  RETREAT TO SOUTHERN VERMONT AND ENJOY A
                                                                                  stay at the Three Mountain Inn. Located in the quiet
                                                                                  village of Jamaica, on scenic Route 30, this charming
                                                                                  1790s, 15-room country inn, run by Jennifer and Ed
                                                                                  Dorta-Duque, is steeped in history.
                                                                                      Sit down to a full breakfast while planning your
                                                                                  day. A short walk away is
                                                                                  the entrance to Jamaica
                                                                                  State Park, which has sev-
                                                                                  eral walking trails includ-
                                                                                  ing one that takes you to                   ★
                                                                                  Hamilton Falls, a 125-
                                                                                                                      JAMAICA, VT
                        THE EQUINOX RESORT & SPA                                  foot cascade. The inn will
                                  MANCHESTER, VT                                  pack a picnic lunch for
                                                                                  you to take along and
 An elegant, impeccably restored historic inn with 183 guest accommodations.      send you off with com-
                                                                                  plimentary entry tickets
 THE ITINERARY: Though popular in the autumn for leaf-peeping, The                and a trail guide to boot. During the summer
 Equinox has a year-round tennis center with three plexi-cushion courts
 on the property, hiking and mountain biking on mountain trails for those
                                                                                  months, take advantage of the inn’s swimming
 of varying skill levels (with complimentary equipment for guests), and           pool—either before you leave in the morning or
 catch-and-release fly fishing on a pond. And directly across from the                                        after you return in the
 resort: the eighteen-hole Gleneagles Golf Course. About five miles away,                                     afternoon. If you decide
 rent canoes and kayaks and head down the Battenkill River (a two-mile
                                                                                 E X PE D I E N T
                                                                                                              to visit Three Mountain
 trip takes about an hour). In the winter months, try your hand (or feet) at           E S C A PE S
                                                                                                              Inn in the winter, you can
 snowshoeing on the resort’s scenic Preservation Trust (equipment com-                                        enjoy nearby Stratton
 plimentary). Off-site, you’ll find downhill skiing and snowboarding on
 nearby Bromley and Stratton Mountains. The resort’s concierge can also
                                                                                  Mountain, which skiers well know has excellent
 arrange snowmobiling on the scenic trails of the Green Mountain                  downhill and cross-country skiing, as well as
 National Forest, and cross-country skiing on trails about one-and-a-half         Bromley, Mt. Snow, and Magic Mountain ski resorts.
 miles away; shuttle service is provided at no charge to all of these activ-      (The three mountains to which the inn’s name refers
 ities in season. But for unique activities, sign up for the British School of    are, however, Ball, Turkey, and Shatterack
 Falconry, the nation's first school of its kind. Or take the wheel of a Land     Mountains.) Other area winter activities include
 Rover Discovery at a nearby off-road driving school. Whatever you do,            snowmobiling, sleigh rides, and ice-skating.
 however, leave time to recuperate in the inn’s soothing, newly renovated
 13,000-square-foot Avanyu Spa, with its seventy-five-foot indoor heated
                                                                                      The village of Jamaica boasts the wonderful
 pool and outdoor Jacuzzi.                                                        Elaine Beckwith Gallery, with its assortment of
                                                                                  graphics, etchings, and paintings, in addition to sev-
 WHERE/WHAT TO EAT: The inn's own Marsh Tavern is charmingly                      eral unique stores such as Jennie Blue, featuring cus-
 authentic down to the worn wood-plank flooring; reservations are sug-            tom-made pottery, and Margie’s Muse Handweaving
 gested in season (average entrée price is $27).                                  and Gallery, which offers hand-made scarves and
                                                                                  sweaters. Nearby villages offer antique shops, muse-
 BY THE WAY: Bring a pair of sturdy walking shoes and an empty trunk—
 the resort is minutes away from about thirty upscale designer outlets
                                                                                  ums, live theater, and concerts. Brattleboro, which is
 including Coach, Burberry, and Escada (www.machesterdesigneroutlets.             about a half-hour away, has numerous bookstores
 com). Plus, should one of you want to shop and the others want to fish, the      where you can locate those hard-to-find titles as well
 hotel will lend you a Volvo SUV at no cost for up to three hours off-season      as first editions.
 and two hours in-season during your stay (gas is free too).                          Have an urge to shop? A short drive will take you to
                                                                                  the designer outlets and factory stores in Manchester
 THE DETAILS: CONTACT INFO: The Equinox Resort & Spa, Historic Rte.               where you will find everything from Baccarat crystal
 7A, Manchester Village, Vermont; www.Equinoxresort.com. DISTANCE
 FROM WHITE PLAINS: 200 MILES; 4 1/4 HOURS. For reservations: (860) 346-
                                                                                  to the Giorgio Armani Company Store. Also in
 ROCK (7625). Costs: Regular-season rates start at $269 per night and go          Manchester is Hildene, Robert Todd Lincoln’s historic
 up to $499 in peak (leaf-peeping) season, depending upon accommoda-              home, which is open to the public year round. In addi-
 tions. Special packages, some including meals, are also available.               tion to tours, special events take place, including con-
                                                                    —LY           certs, craft shows, and polo matches.

   When my husband and I
returned from the day’s activi-
ties, we relaxed by the fire
in the keeping room and
enjoyed afternoon refresh-
ments, including assorted local
   The fully stocked pub is per-
fect for a pre-dinner cocktail or
an after-dinner brandy in front
of the fireplace—or, in the
warmer months, in the keeping
room. Candlelight dinners in
the inn’s award-winning
restaurant (it has received the The dining room at the Three Mountain Inn has received awards from AAA and the Wine Spectator.
coveted AAA Four Diamond
Award and Wine Spectator’s
Award of Excellence) feature Vermont grown- and raised-prod- spell romance. Whirlpool tubs, fireplaces, soft music playing on
ucts. The prix-fixe menu includes five courses, and each is the CD, and comfy robes add to the ambience. All guest rooms
exquisitely prepared and presented, making for a memorable feature luxurious linens and fabulous featherbeds. Another nice
dining experience ($55 per person).                                  touch in each room is the complimentary amenities bag with
   The beautifully decorated rooms and wonderful amenities soaps, lotion, shampoo, and lip balm—perfect for sun worship-

                       THE GARRISON
                           GARRISON, NY

An inviting boutique-sized (four rooms) riverview resort.

ITINERARY: You can spend your entire weekend at the
Garrison—and not run out of things to do. Saunter fifty yards
from the front door, and you’re at the first tee of a challenging
Dick Wilson-designed eighteen-hole golf course with breathtak-
ing views of the Hudson—so bring your clubs along. After a
round or two, treat yourself to a full-body massage at the inn’s
spa. Or if you feel the need to work on your core some more,
sign up for one of its Pilates classes. As the sun sets, grab a
French bistro chair and enjoy a cocktail on the veranda of the
World’s End Bar with some more of those spectacular river
views, then head off to dinner—you’ve earned it––at the inn’s
elegant Valley Restaurant.                                            months, six to eight guests can have a private party alfresco in
    If you’d rather do some exploring, arguably the best, certainly   the Garrison’s lovely garden, exuberant with giant sunflowers,
the newest, and probably one of the most unconventional modern        and fragrant with yarrow, lemon verbena, and rosemary. As the
art museums outside of Manhattan is just fifteen minutes away         sun sets over the Hudson Highlands, enjoy a special six-course,
by car: the three-year-old Dia:Beacon (www.diabeacon.org).            wine-paired dinner incorporating ingredients from that very gar-
Another riverfront museum you won’t want to miss is the magnif-       den. Unforgettable.
icent Boscobel Restoration Inc. (www.boscobel.org), which show-
cases one of the nation's leading collections of furniture and dec-   BY THE WAY: The resort is expanding, so consider delaying your
orative arts from the Federal period.                                 visit until after September when a larger, more luxurious spa is
    But no visit to the area is complete without experiencing         scheduled to be completed.
the quaint, nineteenth-century village of Cold Spring, located
just up the road (see Chronicles, page 54). Its charming, emi-        THE DETAILS: The Garrison, 2015 Rte. 9, Garrison, NY; (845)
nently walkable Main Street is known for its collectibles and         424-4747 or visit www.thegarrison.com. DISTANCE FROM WHITE
antique shops.                                                        PLAINS: 30 MILES; 40 MINUTES. COSTS: Four rooms available, all
                                                                      king-sized beds, $300 for a one-night stay, $275 per night for a
WHAT/WHERE TO EAT: The Valley Restaurant features innova-             two-night stay. Special packages available. All prices include
tive American cuisine using fresh, seasonal ingredients from the      continental breakfast.
Garrison’s own gardens and from local farms. During summer                                                                       —LY

                                                                                                   WESTCHESTER MAGAZINE   ■   JUNE 2006   |   81
[YOUR DESTINATION]                                                                    pers and skiers alike. Accommodations in the Sage
          INN AT MONTEVERDE AT OLDSTONE MANOR                                         Hill Cottage offered us every amenity—a spa tub
                                CORTLANDT MANOR, NY                                   for two, gas fireplace, TV/DVD/CD surround-
                                                                                      sound stereo system, skylights, heated floors, and
A historic 1760 mansion with restaurant, spa, and inn with two rooms.                 separate dual-head shower.
                                                                                         ■ THREE MOUNTAIN INN, Rte. 30, Jamaica, VT;
BEST ITINERARY: Do as little as possible. Come here to relax (there’s a new           (802) 874-4140/(800) 532-9399; $145-$360; 5 rooms;
spa), to dine (a new chef) and to sleep well (a tiny new inn with two beauti-
fully appointed rooms). And, yes, to get knock-your-socks-off views of the
Hudson. If you must do something, try a private yoga lesson on the wooden
                                                   deck overlooking the river,
                                                   with the sounds of wind
                                                   rustling, birds chirping,                      HIGH POINTE INN
                                                   and an occasional train                        WEST BARNSTABLE, MA
                                                   whizzing by (60 minute les-        MY HUSBAND AND I HAVE
                                                   son, $75). Otherwise,
                                                                                      enjoyed many vacations
                                                   spend the day pampering
                                                   yourself. Perhaps the sig-         on Cape Cod, in all sea-
                                                   nature facial (110 minutes,        sons. On our last trip we
                                                   $225) or a hot-stone mas-          chose the High Pointe Inn,
                                                   sage (50 minutes, $125) or         owned by Debbie and                              ★
                                                   a salt glow (50 minutes,           Rich Howard, experienced WEST BARNSTABLE, MA
                                                   $100)—or all of the above.         innkeepers who clearly
                                                   The inn is right off Route
                                                                                      delight in pampering their
                                                   202 and 6 West, north of
                                                   Peekskill, so if you can still     guests.
                                                   move after a day in the               The inn sits on a hill-
                                                   spa, head on down to visit         top, conveniently located on the “quiet side” of the
                                                   the Hudson Valley Center           Cape, offering unobstructed views of woods, salt
                                                   for Contemporary Art               marshes, dunes, and the Cape Cod Bay. Short
(1701 Main St., Peekskill 914-788-7166). While there, take in a few galleries         drives will bring you to some of the finest beaches
(we particularly like Maxwell Fine Arts, 1204 Main St., Peekskill, 914-737-
                                                                                                                  on the East Coast. In
8622, and Gallery 25N, 25 N. Division St., Peekskill, 914-293-0811).
                                                                                                                  addition to swimming in
                                                                                    E X PE D I E N T              the bay, you can bike,
WHERE/WHAT TO EAT: Monteverde’s new chef, Michael Sheel, apprenticed
                                                                                          E S C A PE S            kayak, fish, hike, or play
at the venerated Le Bec Fin in Philly. The menu changes to take advantage
of local seasonal ingredients. Highly recommended are the pan-seared                                              golf. If you prefer less
Hudson Valley fois gras, the luscious rack of lamb with a yummy mustard-              athletic activities, you can always visit the antique
and-herb crust, and tender chorizo-crusted sea bass. For lunch, try the grilled       shops, galleries, and museums that line the Old
duck pastrami on rye or a filet mignon on brioche with caramelized onions;
                                                                                      Kings Highway, scenic Rte. 6A. The Cape Cod
for brunch, a banana walnut-stuffed French toast with bourbon syrup and
vanilla butter. There are three dining rooms, all overlooking the water; a bar        Playhouse, America’s oldest professional summer
menu is planned for the cozy lounge area with fireplace. A wine garden                theater, is located a short drive away.
opens this month and, of course, the terrace is the perfect spot to linger over          The three guest suites are large and comfortable
drinks as you watch the sun set over the Hudson.                                      with panoramic views from their picture windows.
                                                                                      Our suite, Moonglow, was delightfully light and
BY THE WAY: Five-course tasting menus with wine pairing are planned for               airy. The pencil-post bed with its luxury linens was
June 15 (wines of Provence, $85), July 20 (wines of Alsace, $85) and August
                                                                                      extremely comfortable, as were the reclining wing
17 (wines of Burgundy, $125). Astrology lectures with three-course dinner
are planned for June 28, July 26, and August 23 ($85).                                chairs set in from a picture window. Binoculars are
                                                                                      thoughtfully provided, and on a clear day you can
THE DETAILS: Monteverde at Oldstone Manor, 28 Bear Mountain Bridge                    see the Pilgrim’s Monument in Provincetown. All
Rd., Cortlandt Manor, NY (914) 739-5000, ext. 1; www.monteverde                       rooms have CD players and individual controls for
restaurant.com. Distance from White Plains: 20 miles, one half hour. Weekend          heating and air-conditioning. The Sand Dollar
rates from now through October are $600 for the smaller Ludlow Room and               suite has a wood-burning fireplace and lovely
$800 for the larger Van Cortlandt Suite. A variety of packages are also
                                                                                      French doors that lead to the deck. Debbie
offered, starting at $925. A truly indulgent getaway includes two nights in
the suite, the chef’s five-course seasonal sampling and wine pairing, per-            Howard has a flair for decorating. Lots of thought
sonal bath butler, two spa treatments, private yoga lesson, and continen-             went into the amenities provided too, which
tal breakfast in bed ($2,000).                                                        included—and this I appreciated a lot— sun-
                                                                          —NLC        screen. Little touches leave lasting impressions.

    Common areas are inviting. In cooler weather, enjoy the
                                                                                                  [New York]
fireplace in the dining room while watching TV; in milder
weather, move to the deck and savor the views. Sip a cordial in                          ALBERGO ALLEGRIA
the living room while chatting with other guests; read the                                         WINDHAM, NY
newspapers or browse through the literature and pamphlets
about Cape Cod.                                                         APPROXIMATELY TWO HOURS FROM DOWNTOWN WHITE
    Coffee is available in the Great Room for early risers. A full      Plains, the town of Windham, a scenic year-round resort town
breakfast is served at a communal table in the large, bright            in the Catskill Mountains, makes for an appealing weekend
dining room, but when weather permits, it is served alfresco            getaway. It offers skiing on thirty-four trails in winter as well
on the deck. We enjoyed migas, scrambled eggs with cheese,              as fishing, boating, and swimming in summer. In spring and
and chorizo sausage topped with salsa and sour cream served             fall, you can take a hike or ride a bike and enjoy the beautiful
in a tortilla. The blueberry muffins were scrumptious. Debbie           mountain scenery. Plus Windham and the surrounding area
and Rich are a great team—she bakes and takes care of guests            offer fine dining, historic sites, antique shops, and art galleries
in the dining room while he enjoys creating in the kitchen. A           along with country stores, from which you can load up on
nice surprise are the “avocado rollups” offered at the end of           local products.
the meal: warm, moistened, scented washcloths. Yet another                  At the end of a busy day, the per-
thoughtful touch.                                                       fect place to relax is the award-
    The most appealing attributes of High Pointe, however, are          winning Albergo Allegria Bed and
Debbie and Rich, who live on-site and clearly enjoy what they           Breakfast. Italian for the “Inn of
are doing. Many guests from their former inn in New                     Happiness,” Albergo Allegria is                     ★
Hampshire have followed them to the Cape and, like us, con-             family owned and lovingly cared
tinue to return.                                                        for by owners Lenore and Vito
   ■ HIGH POINTE INN, 70 High St. West Barnstable, MA;                  Radelich and their daughter and               WINDHAM, NY
(508) 362-4441 or (888) 362-4441, $125-$195; 3 rooms, www.the           son-in-law, innkeepers Marianna
highpointeinn.com.                                                      and Leslie Leman.

                                                                        short shuttle ride away on the mainland. There are also bicycles
                       THE SAGAMORE,                                    you can use at no charge (for up to four hours) and maps detailing
                        BOLTON LANDING, NY                              hiking trails around. And if you just want to relax, there’s a spa.

The Sagamore is elegant (its brochure claims “elegance in the           WHAT/WHERE TO EAT: You don’t have to eat at the resort, but why
woods”) in a laid-back, rustic kind of way. Originally built in 1883,   wouldn’t you? There are several restaurants on the property,
it offers several choices of accommodations. My favorites are in        including the Sagamore Dining Room (breakfast only), the casual
the exquisitely restored, English Colonial-style main building.         Mister Brown’s Pub, and even the Morgan, a seventy-two-foot
                                                                        yacht available for charter from May through October. But my
THE ITINERARY: The hotel sits on an island, so sign on for a sail-      favorite was the waterfront Pavilion and its lobster bake.
ing expedition on a new Colgate 26 through the Sagamore's own
Off-Shore Sailing School (a two-and-a-half hour sail starts at $200     BY THE WAY: Make all reservations (dining, spa services, golf and
for the boat, plus $60 per person; call 518-743-6104); or rent a        tennis times, etc.) before you arrive. The resort encourages
kayak or canoe from the Lake George                                                               guests to respect its dress-code tradi-
Kayak Company (518-644-9366); or                                                                  tion, especially in the evenings when
ride the rapids on a seasonal white-                                                              slacks and shirts with collars are sug-
water rafting trip along the                                                                      gested for men, and skirts, dresses, or
Sacandaga River, located about a                                                                  pantsuits for women, so pack accord-
half-hour away (shuttle transport and                                                             ingly.
towels included). Or go waterskiing,
kneeboarding or wakeboarding, or                                                                   THE DETAILS: The Sagamore, 110
parasailing on the beaches at Dr.                                                                  Sagamore Rd., Bolton Landing, NY;
Rogers Park Veterans Memorial;                                                                     (800) 358-3585; wwwthesagamore.com.
these can be arranged by the                                                                       Costs: Seasonal rates, $185-$645 for
concierge. More of a landlubber?                                                                   main hotel accommodations, $155-
There’s a racquetball court and one                                                                $840 for lodge accommodations, and
indoor and five outdoor tennis courts,                                                             $499-$840 for condominium accom-
and golf addicts can get their fix on                                                              modations. Packages, some including
the eighteen-hole championship                                                                     breakfast, are available.
Donald Ross golf course located a                                                                                                  —LY

                                                                                                   WESTCHESTER MAGAZINE   ■   JUNE 2006   |   83
[YOUR DESTINATION]                                                         Originally part of a large vacation complex built in 1892,
                        HOTEL DU PONT                                  Albergo Allegria, a collection of Victorian buildings, was
                           WILMINGTON, DE                              purchased by the Radelichs in 1982; the couple then
                                                                       painstakingly restored the neglected structures. They sal-
A grand old hotel in the heart of downtown, just off I-95.             vaged some of the original wood, moldings, and stained
                                                                       glass and, after moving one of the cottages, joined them to
BEST ITINERARY: Love gardens? Longwood Gardens, in
nearby Kennett Square, Pennsylvania (www.longwood                      create what is now the inn.
gardens.org), is a horticultural Eden, a must-see for anyone               Today, the bed and breakfast has fourteen guest rooms
who appreciates landscape art that is exquisite all year long:         and seven suites. Five suites are located in the detached
waves of tulips and daffodils each spring, roses blooming all          Carriage House that once was the stables. Each suite in the
summer, chrysanthemums in the fall, holiday flowers and                Carriage House has two entrances, one in front for easy
400,000 lights in winter. Antique aficionados will enjoy               access to the main house, and another in back leading to the
Winterthur (www.winterthur.org), a country estate and the for-
                                                                       gardens and the parking area. These suites all have king-size
mer home of Henry Francis du Pont, which contains one of the
world’s most complete collections of American craftsman-               beds, marble-tile fireplaces, and whirlpool tubs for two. The
ship. The museum is surrounded by 1,000 acres, including a             larger Master and Millennium Suites in the main house also
                                sixty-acre garden. A tram can          have fireplaces and spa-size whirlpool tubs. All guest rooms
                                take you on a thirty-minute            have private baths with both tub and shower. Bath ameni-
                                narrated tour. Art lovers must         ties include luxurious robes, oversized fluffy towels, hair dry-
                                visit the Delaware Art                 ers, makeup mirrors, and toiletries. Rooms have a definite
                                Museum        (www.delart.org),
                                                                                                 Victorian influence.
                                which reopened last summer
                                after a three-year, $31-million                                     An extensive assortment of
                                                                    E X PE D I E N T
                                expansion and renovation.                                        videos and CDs are available to
                                                                          E S C A PE S
                                There are seventeen galleries                                    guests. Prepare some popcorn and
                                of 19th- and 20th-century art,                                   take it and a movie back to your
                                a twelve-acre sculpture gar-           room. The guest pantry is fully stocked with the largest
                                den, and a fun, interactive kids       assortment of teas—both loose and bagged—I have seen
                                area. For more cutting-edge
                                                                       outside a teashop. The innkeepers provide a one-cup cof-
                                art, head over to the Delaware
                                Center for the Contemporary            fee brewer with a full assortment of regular and decaf cof-
                                Arts (www.thedcca.org) on the          fees, including flavored and hearty French roasts, so fresh
                                riverfront, a funky converted          coffee is always available. In addition to the bottled water
1900s railroad car manufacturing center that has seven gal-            in your room, the refrigerator in the guest pantry is
leries and twenty-six studios for resident artists.                    stocked with juices and soft drinks. Biscotti and cookies
                                                                       are also available.
WHERE/WHAT TO EAT: The Hotel du Pont’s Green Room is
                                                                           Breakfast is served in the dining room at individual
a visual feast of golden chandeliers, hand-carved oak pan-
eling, lush velvet drapes, and a lovely little mezzanine for           tables. Breakfast specials vary; during our visit, we were
the grand piano and harp. Yes, it is formal—jackets are                offered a zucchini frittata, banana-pecan pancakes, and
required—and wonderful. Come famished to their famed                   ham-and-cheese omelets. We had a hard time deciding, so
Sunday brunch. There are seasonal salads, fresh fruit,                 our server suggested trying a little bit of each. Nice! If for
quiches, Belgian waffles, carved ham, custom omelets, sour             some reason you’re not into banana-pecan pancakes or
lamb ragout, crab cakes, miniature crème brûlées, choco-               zucchini frittata, you can always order eggs any style
late-covered strawberries, and the hotel’s signature maca-
                                                                       with hash browns and breakfast meats or a plain omelet
roons. Brunch at Winterthur is pretty spectacular, too—
choose omelets made to order, eggs Benedict, pork or beef              with toast.
tenderloin, fruits, cheeses, cakes, and pies. The French toast             The large parlor on the first floor has comfortable seating
(stuffed with fruit and cream cheese) made a sinful dessert,           and we enjoyed afternoon tea in front of the fireplace while
topped with maple syrup, whipped cream, strawberries, and              looking through menus and reading guest reviews of area
blueberries. Yum!                                                      restaurants. While the inn is totally non-smoking, the
                                                                       thoughtful innkeepers have provided a screened-in gazebo
BY THE WAY: Broadway meets Wilmington at the duPont
                                                                       for their guests who smoke.
Theatre in the hotel, the oldest continually operating theater in
the country. Upcoming shows include Thoroughly Modern Millie.              There is much to do and see in this area of the Catskill
                                                                       Mountains and Albergo Allegria is an inviting and warm
Details: Hotel du Pont, 11th and Market Sts., Wilmington,              B&B whose innkeepers continue to strive to make your stay
DE (302) 594-3108; www.hoteldupont.com. Distance from                  more enjoyable each time you visit.
White Plains: 151 Miles; two and one-half hours. Rooms start              ■ ALBERGO ALLEGRIA, 43 Rte. 296, Windham, NY; (518) 734-
at $239; packages from $249-$599.                                      5560; $73-$299; www.albergousa.com; 21 rooms.

                           [Maine ]
                                                                     [YOUR DESTINATION]
                  YORK HARBOR INN
                                                                                      THE HOTEL PROVIDENCE
                            YORK, ME
                                                                                                PROVIDENCE, RI

UNTIL FIVE YEARS AGO WHEN WE DISCOVERED THE YORK                      A member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World,
Harbor Inn, the towns of Kittery and York had been stops on           this 80-room, two-year-old hotel in the heart of downtown
our way north—for the outlet shopping, the lobster rolls at the       Providence is a gorgeous little gem with an AAA Four Diamond-
Sun & Surf Restaurant on York Beach, and the great view of the        rated restaurant.
Nubble Lighthouse.
                                                                      BEST ITINERARY: Do not miss WaterFire (www.waterfire.com),
                                 The cabin room has a wonderful
                                                                      the city’s biggest attraction. Think the Gates installation from
                             history: it was a home on the Isle of    Central Park but with fire: one-hundred blazing bonfires floating
                             Shoals that was dismantled and           on the three rivers that converge in downtown Providence. The
                             brought to the mainland around           view is mesmerizing from the shore, but even more so from the
                ★            1637 and had adjacent historic build-    water, especially via gondola.
                             ings added and restored to become
                 YORK, ME                                             WHERE/WHAT TO EAT: Just off the lobby in the hotel is
                             part of the inn. In addition to rooms
                                                                      L'Epicureo Restaurant, which has received kudos from national
                             in the main inn, Yorkshire House (c.
                                                                      publications         including
                             1783) has eleven delightful guest        Gourmet and Bon Appetit.
                             rooms, some with fireplaces and/or       Classy, with a piano playing
                             spa tubs; the adjacent Harbor Hill       softly in the adjoining bar
Inn has seven luxury guestrooms, all with fireplaces and              area,     the     décor      is
whirlpool tubs. You will also find bottles of spring water in your    Renaissance inspired with
room and complimentary soft drinks; coffee and tea are always         huge reproductions of the
                                                                      Mona Lisa, Birth of Venus, and
available in the lobby area. Harbor Cliffs, a stately home on the
                                                                      others. The fine Italian cui-
rise next to the inn, operates as an independent, elegantly fur-      sine is impeccable.
nished, seven-room bed and breakfast with a Continental
breakfast served each morning either in the dining room or on         BY THE WAY: As many as
the spacious front porch with its ocean views. Several rooms          350,000 people come from
offer working fireplaces and/or spa tubs; some have private           all over the country for each WaterFire event, so be sure to make
decks. The majority of the rooms in these buildings have ocean        hotel and dinner reservations in advance as every place is
                                                                      booked—especially restaurants looking over the rivers.
views. Newly opened is the 1730 Harbor Crest Inn, located on
Route 1A about a half-mile from the main building, also on            DETAILS: Hotel Providence, 311 Westminster St., Providence, RI
Route 1A. Exquisitely appointed rooms have spacious baths             (800) 861-8990, www.thehotelprovidence.com. Distance from White
with two-person spa tubs and fireplaces. A two-room suite on          Plains: 157 Miles; three hours. The WaterFire package from June 17
the second floor has a balcony, and the two rooms on the third        through October 21 on WaterFire weekends including room,
floor boast cathedral ceilings.                                       breakfast for two in L'Epicureo, and a WaterFire Riverwalk Tour
    We had great views of both the ocean and the entry to York        for $349, including tax. Regular packages range from $229-$715;
                                                                      a standard room is from $219-$449.
Harbor from our room in the Harbor Hill. The Great Room at
the Harbor Hill Inn, with its large stone fireplace and cushy
sofas, is a great spot to enjoy a cup of coffee and read the morn-
ing papers.                                                          such as the French Kiss (vodka, Chambord, and pineapple
    Since we were there for a long weekend, we enjoyed dining in     juice), and the Harbor Breeze (coconut rum, Absolut vanilla,
both the Ship Cellar Pub and the award-winning Ocean View            vodka, and pineapple juice), and other libations. If you prefer
Restaurant. Both the tavern and restaurant are open to the pub-      the pub’s more casual atmosphere, you will find several of the
lic and are popular with local residents. I recommend you take       Ocean View’s specialties on its menu as well.
advantage of the inn’s dining packages, which offer an Early            ■ YORK HARBOR INN; Coastal Rte. 1A, York Harbor, ME; (207)
Bird Special of salad, entrée, and dessert ($17.95) or an            363-5119/(800) 343-3869; $199-$349; 54 rooms; www.yorkharbor
Innkeeper’s Package (featuring a $60 dinner voucher). The            inn.com.
recently transformed pub now serves lunch, so we enjoyed our
chowder and lobster rolls “below deck.” Fine woodworking and         More information on all these B&Bs, along with thousands of
the use of mahogany decking with delicate inlays of exotic           other great places to stay, can be found on www.Bedand
woods and veneers add to the feeling of being on board a             Breakfast.com.
luxury yacht. The added martini bar offers a variety of martinis,

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