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How to Replace a Multipoint Lock in a Wooden Atrium Door

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How to Replace a Multipoint Lock in a Wooden Atrium Door Powered By Docstoc
					http://www.allaboutdoors.com                                                                    Published 6/8/2005


             How to Replace the Multipoint Lock in a Wooden Atrium Door
                     Special thanks to B. Berlin from New Jersey for submitting this tutorial

                For Questions or Concerns, please refer to All About Doors & Windows
                                   http://www.allaboutdoors.com

The Atrium door company, out of the wooden-door business since 1997, left behind a legacy of nicely
crafted doors, which are now beginning to show their age in many aspects, including the locks. Even
though Atrium Companies Inc. no longer manufacturers them, All About Doors & Windows has the
resources to keep your Atrium wooden door looking and working like new.


One of the main components of your door is the lock. The original locks used in the Atrium wooden
doors were made by Ferco. Allaboutdoors.com carries a fit-up replacement lock should yours need to
be replaced. These instructions are based on using that lock. The fit-up will require some modifications
to the door and fit adjustments to the lock, because it is made to accommodate a wide range of doors.
The skill level needed to accomplish this is moderate. But, working carefully you can do this and have
a working door lock once again without having to replace your Atrium door.


Detailed steps follow this summary. If you read and understand the instructions before starting, the job
should take no more than 3 to 4 hours. You should have good mechanical skills, and some
woodworking or carpentry skills, because you will need to use wood chisels to change the profiles of
existing mortises for the shoot bolts and one of the roller strikes, and create a new mortise for the
second roller strike. The most critical, irreversible part of the job is cutting the new lock to the correct
length. If you feel uncomfortable following the instructions for this, AAD will, for an additional
charge, pre-cut the new lock to length for you.


Summary
    1. Gather all materials and tools.
    2. Remove brass escutcheons, lock handles, and lock cylinder.
    3. Remove the original lockset.
    4. Change the mortises at the ends of the door stile to accommodate the new shoot bolt extensions.
    5. Measure and cut the new lock to length.
    6. Install the new lock.
    7. Test and adjust the fit.
    8. Reinstall the brass parts.
    9. Replace any weather strips and sweeps.
    10.Re-hang the door on its hinges.


              All About Doors & Windows       |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714
                                                                                                                1
http://www.allaboutdoors.com                                                             Published 6/8/2005

Tools
   •    A thin (3/32") pin-punch to drive out the roll pin (sometimes called a tension pin) which retains
        the turn-knob on its spindle. A PIN-PUNCH is NOT a nail set. It has a cylindrical end and is flat
        at the tip.
   •    A Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the lock bar
   •    An Allen wrench to remove the set screws holding the handle hub to the square spindle
   •    A stout flat-blade screwdriver if you wish to separate the handles from their hubs for cleaning.
   •    A small hammer.
   •    Two sharp wood chisels. You'll need these to make two new mortises. You'll need a 1/4” chisel
        and an 1/2” chisel.
   •    A 32-tpi hacksaw.
   •    A mill bastard file.
   •    Coping saw or small backsaw.
   •    A plastic container to hold ALL the small parts.


Materials
   •    A replacement lock from Allaboutdoors.com. Order the Ferco 528 (part #40222). This kit
        includes: roller lock case & gear, 2 shootbolts, 7mm spindle, reducing sleeve and screws.
   •    Weatherproof caulking or waterproof gasket paper (this can be obtained at an automotive
        supplies store).
   •    A brass refinishing kit if you are going to restore the brass parts.
   •    A set of spacers - the steel, threaded, posts that hold the escutcheon in place to replace rusty
        ones.
   •    Any other parts, like weatherstripping, door sweeps or lever hub bushings, that you are planning
        to replace.
   •    A pair of 3/32nd x 1/2” tension pins. These should be available at your local hardware store.


Steps (Based on the French Classic Door)
   1. Remove the weather strips from the two panels of the door. They just pull out of their kerfs. Lay
      these aside.
   2. Open the active swing panel of the door, and leave the handles in the unlocked position
      (shootbolt in the retracted position).
   3. Using the hammer and the punch, gently tap the tension pin out of the turn knob (if you can't
      find the right sized punch, make one out of a finishing nail the same size as the hole in the knob

               All About Doors & Windows     |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714
                                                                                                           2
http://www.allaboutdoors.com                                                            Published 6/8/2005

       by cutting or grinding off the point). DO NOT use a pointed object to attempt to drive out the
       tension pin. It will only make the pin tighter.
   4. If a burr has formed on the bore of the turn-knob, it won't just slide right off. But there's nothing
      tricky about it. Turn the knob gently and pull at the same time until it comes off the cylinder
      spindle. Put the knob aside.
   5. Remove the Phillips head brass machine screw that holds the
      lock cylinder in the door. With your fingers (or using the turn
      knob for leverage) turn the lock cylinder spindle back to the
      neutral position between locked and unlocked. In my cylinder,
      the cam in the lock cylinder is in the neutral position when the
      shootbolt is retracted and the holes in the turn-knob spindle are
      aligned in the 10 o'clock/4 o'clock position. You may have to
      fiddle and jiggle the turn knob to get the cam into the right
      position but it will get there if you work on it.
   6. Using the Allen wrench, unscrew the set screw that holds the
      lever handle hub to the lock spindle. The best way to do this is
      to just completely remove the screw, since its tip protrudes into
      a groove in the spindle, and it is hard to judge how far out the
      screw has to be to free the hub.
                                      7. Use a small hammer or an automotive slide hammer to
                                         persuade the hub off the lock spindle. As with the turn-knob, a
                                         burr can form in the bore of the hub. Nothing tricky here, just
                                         jiggle, tap and pull the handle and hub off the spindle.
                                      8. If you wish to strip the lacquer off the brass, clean and polish
                                          it and re-lacquer, then stick a flat-blade screwdriver into the
                                          inside of the lever hub. The threaded button that holds the
       lever onto the hub is accessible, and can be turned clockwise from the inside of the hub to
       remove the button. Or if the lever has loosened and the button keeps unscrewing itself, you can
       tighten it the same way.
   9. With the cylinder and handle-spindle out, you can now remove the lock set.
   10. At this point, you should remove the active door panel. It is very heavy so either use shims
       under the door edge or get a friend to help you hold the door while you remove the screws
       holding the hinges into their mortises in the door. Place the door onto a pair of saw horses.
   11. You will need to remove the bottom door sweep. It simply pries away from the door bottom.
       The original was retained by barbed strips in two kerfs in the door bottom as well as a few
       staples. If the sweep has already been replaced, then it is probably retained by a few small nails.
   12. On the edge of the door is the metal strip that houses the shootbolt lift mechanism. The lock is
       attached to that from behind. Take out the trim screws that hold the metal strip. Don't lose any
       of the screws - they have special sized heads that fit flush in the countersunk holes in the bar.



             All About Doors & Windows      |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714
                                                                                                            3
http://www.allaboutdoors.com                                                           Published 6/8/2005

                                                    13. Remove the slotted brass screws (3 of them)
                                                        from the inside escutcheon plate. Put these aside.
                                                        The inside escutcheon will probably come off
                                                        easily. The outside one may have some sealant or
                                                        silicone caulk that holds it to the outside of the
                                                        door stile. Pry it gently, making sure not to
                                                        damage the outside surface of the door panel. I
                                                        also have used a 1/4-20 hex-head bolt as a punch
                                                        to push out the spacers and outside escutcheon.
                                                        Just work carefully and it will come off. If you
                                                        do damage the door, don't fret—it can be
                                                        repaired.
   14. Now, slip the entire lock mechanism towards yourself. Put it aside for measurements that you
       need to take.
   15. You will now need to change the shape and depth of some of the existing mortises, and the
       positions of others.
   16. See the picture of the shootbolt extension. You will have to change the shape of the existing
       mortise in the active door panel to accommodate the extension. Also, the extension has an "L"
       shaped part where the bolt extends, and you will need to cut a mortise for that as well.
   17. Using your chisels, shape the mortises to accommodate the shootbolt extensions at the top and
       bottom of the door.
   18. Make certain the shoot bolt extension moves freely when you are done.
   19. When done, drill one 3/32” pilot hole into the door stile through each of the three holes for
       screws in each extension and screw it in place temporarily with only two screws. Make certain
       that the clip at the end of the extension is in the retracted position.
   20. Insert the new lock set into the existing mortise in the door.
   21. Make sure that the bolt mechanism is in the "OPEN" position by temporarily placing a brass
       shim (included in your kit) on the new lock spindle, and attaching the lever handle to the
       spindle. Insert the spindle in the lock and press down on the lever, raising the bolt mechanism.
       THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. IF THE SHOOTBOLT ISN'T IN THE
       RAISED POSITION (THE OPEN
       POSITION) YOU WILL CUT IT TOO SHORT.
   22. Now, carefully measure the place on the lock where the shootbolt
       extension ends. See picture. Measure to the end of the clip, not to the
       toothed end of the sliding part of the shoot bolt. Click here to see an
       article on cutting shootbolt extensions.
   23. Do this at both ends of the lock.
   24. Remove the lock and carefully cut the lock at the marks with a fine tooth
       hacksaw blade. Use a mill bastard file to smooth the burrs.


             All About Doors & Windows      |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714
                                                                                                          4
http://www.allaboutdoors.com                                                            Published 6/8/2005

   25. Now you can remove the temporary screws holding the shootbolt extensions, and attach them to
       the ends of the lock. Slide the retainer clip in place.
   26. Replace the lock plus extensions, and drill pilot holes for the trim screws. Use a 3/32” drill bit.
   27. Using the trim screws that you removed from the original lock, screw the lock back in place.
   28. Now, using a good ruler or tape measure, carefully measure the distance from some fixed point,
       like the latch bolt bottom edge to the top of the
       lower roller slot. Record that measurement. Do
       the same from the latch bolt to the bottom edge
       of the upper roller slot.
   29. Make the exact same measurements on the old
       lock. The differences are the distances that the
       upper and lower roller strikes have to be moved.
   30. Measure the new positions of the roller strikes.
   31. Clamp a strip of scrap wood alongside the place
       that you are going to make the new mortises for each roller
       strike. Use a 1” Forstner bit to create the radius at each end of
       the roller strike mortise.
   32. Remove the clamped strip and finish the mortise with your
       chisel.
   33. Using a small backsaw, or dovetail saw, square off the original
       mortises, and clean them up perfectly square with your chisel.
       Or, do as I did, and use a coping saw to shape a piece of pine
       to fit into the original mortise as a plug.
   34. Use a small piece of clear pine to fill in the original mortises.
       You can make these over sized and shave them carefully with
       a block plane.
   35. Before installing the roller strikes, I re-lacquered the trim strip
       face with an amber tinted (overprint) lacquer so that the new
       pieces matched nicely.
   36. Install the roller strikes.
   37. Close the passive panel, and throw the shootbolts.
   38. Carefully close the active panel and check your work. It should close without touching any of
       the lock parts except the latch bolt, which should engage its strike.
   39. Throw the shootbolt by inserting the handle/spindle and pulling it up.
   40. Make any further adjustments needed for smooth, positive action.
   41. The original Ferco 528 had three through holes for the spacers and screws that hold the
       escutcheons. The new 528 has only two. While the new lock was out of the door, I used a


              All About Doors & Windows      |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714
                                                                                                             5
http://www.allaboutdoors.com                                                         Published 6/8/2005

       Forstner bit to bore a clean hole for a dowel in the place where the middle through-hole used to
       be. Do this on both faces of the door. When replacing the escutcheon, you can use flat-slot oval-
       head #8 x 1/2 inch brass wood screws in the place where the middle spacer used to go.
   42. While the door is being repaired, you may want to replace the
       weatherstripping and the bottom sweeps. All About Doors and
       Windows has these items, and they are easy to replace.
   43. Replace the escutcheons and lever handles, reversing the disassembly
       instructions. One difference, is that you will have to cut the new lock
       spindle to length. Use the original as a guide. Also, I made gaskets
       from rubber-fiber gasket paper to go under each outside escutcheon. I
       have always had problems with water leaking into the area around the
       escutcheon spacers, and silicone has never helped. Simply trace
       around the outside of the escutcheon and cut carefully with a razor
       knife. I used gasket punches to make the round holes but you can do
       it with a sharp razor knife.
   44. The replacement lock spindle is only 7mm square. This provides an
       advantage in making the part of the lock that it passes through more
       robust. However, the new spindle won't fit the handles without minor
       modification. A set of two hollow brass shims is provided. After
       cutting and de-burring the new spindle, place these over the ends of
       the spindle and you can now continue to reverse the disassembly
       instructions to complete the job.




             All About Doors & Windows     |   1901 Cherry St. Kansas City, MO 64108-1714
                                                                                                       6

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