CONSTRUCTION TIPS Building a Butt and Pass Corner

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					CONSTRUCTION TIPS | Building a Butt and Pass Corner
1. Install Subfloor System                                FIgURe 1
Install the subfloor system of your choice
making sure that the top of the rim joist is
wide enough to accept the fastening system.
One way to achieve this is to use double or
triple 2 x material. In our examples we will use
lag screws.

2. Install Log Starter Plate
The log starter plate is the surface on which
the log will rest and a guide for keeping walls
straight and square. It can also be used to
adjust your wall height. The width of the starter         FIgURe 2
plate should be less than the width of the log
to allow for the installation of matching log

3. Preparing Pass Logs Before
For the pass log that rests on the starter plate,
remove the drip lip from the portion of the log
that will become the tail. A belt sander works
                                                          FIgURe 3
Note: For subsequent courses of pass logs, you will
need to remove additional drip lip so that the log sits
flat on the pass area.

4. First Course Configuration – Butt and
Pass Corner

This is what the first course, or row, will look
like. The following steps will show how to
fasten the first course to the starter plate. Two
beads of caulk have been applied on the starter
plate on either side of the groove of the first           FIgURe 4
log. It’s also a good idea to “plug” the exposed
groove at the end of the log with caulk.
Note: The tongue will be removed after the
pass log is secured in place.

CONSTRUCTION TIPS | Building a Butt and Pass Corner
5. Setting the First Row or Course                       FIgURe 5

Set the pass log on the starter plate, making
sure the desired tail length is achieved. Allow
an offset for optional siding, if desired.
Temporarily toe nail the butt log to the pass
log. Doing this helps to hold the logs in place
for the next step. Make sure the intersection of
the logs is plumb and square. Install the butt
log against the pass log.

6. Fastening The Logs                                    FIgURe 6

Predrill logs using the appropriate bit for the
size of fastener used. Heads of fasteners and
washers should be countersunk into the log.

Use an impact wrench to drive the lags. Make
sure logs are secured tightly.
Note: Spikes can be used but our builders tell us lags
work better.

7. Sealing The Butt Joint                                FIgURe 7
Use an auger bit to drill a one inch diameter
hole at the butt joint. Half of the diameter
of hole should be on the butt log and half on
the pass log. The hole should be deep enough
to slightly penetrate the starter plate or, in
subsequent courses, the log below. Fill the hole
half full of caulk. Drive a peg or dowel that is
slightly shorter than the depth of the hole into
place. The peg and caulk will make an airtight
                                                         FIgURe 8
Note: The same pegging procedure is used where logs
butt together in the middle of a wall.

8. Removing Tongue from Tail
Remove the tongue from the tail and from the
portion of the pass log upon which the next
log will rest. The length of the tongue removed
should equal the length of the drip lip that was
removed in Step #3, plus the width of the pass
log. A belt sander or hand planer works best.

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CONSTRUCTION TIPS | Building a Butt and Pass Corner
9. Making Courses Airtight                                   FIgURe 9

Apply 3/8” x 3/8” foam tape to the slot that is
milled into the tongue and apply 1/4” bead of
caulk to the front beveled edge of the tongue..
HiNt: Do not stretch the tape; it has a “memory”.
Simply pat it into place.

10. Stacking Subsequent Courses
Repeat Steps 3 thru 9 for all subsequent
courses of logs.
Note: Additional drip lip has been removed so that the       FIgURe 10
log sets flat on the pass area.

HiNt: Planing the entire tongue off the final course
of logs provides a flat surface for installing your roof

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