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					Anno 5 numero 104 - Firenze                                                                                                                                        Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                             EXPATS>inFlorence                                            Painting the
     A new view of                                   Roll the dice
         Florence                                     In Tuscany?                               Rebecca Milner                                              spring in a
                                                                                                                                                     Florentine garden
       Restored walkway in                        Minister proposes casino                              by Melinda Gallo
           Palazzo Vecchio                                                                                                                                    by Rea Stavropoulos

                             see pg. 4                                       see pg. 5                                      see pg. 18                                              see pg. 20

FACE OFF!                                                     Renzi and
                                                              Galli go head
                                                              to head
                                                                                                                                                        New law
                                                                                                                                                       makes waves
                                                                                                                                                    Tuscany’s immigration legislation
                                                                                                                                                       sparks national controversy
                                                              in mayoral
                                                              race                                                                                   A     fter weeks of deliberation, in-
                                                                                                                                                           cluding a 30-hour debate in the
                                                                                                                                                    regional council, on June 1, Tuscany
                                                                                                                                                    passed a new immigration law. The
                                                                                                                                                    legislation was advanced by councilors
                                                                                                                                                    from the majority government of the
                                                                                                                                                    centre-left and was strongly opposed
                                                                                                                                                    by the centre-right on both the national
                                                                                                                                                    and regional level.
                                                                                                                                                      The controversy has to do will the
                                                                                                                                                    treatment and status of illegal immi-
                                                                                                                                                    grants in the region. While current na-
                                                                                                                                                    tional laws seek to curb and control the
                                                                                                                                                    presence of illegal immigrants, Tuscany’s
                                                                                                                                                    new law goes in the opposite direction,
                                                                                                                                                    emphasizing the basic human rights of
                                                                                                                                                    both legal and illegal immigrants.
                                                                                                                                                      It grants free access to health care and
                                                                                                                                                    other forms of socio-sanitary assistance,

                                                                                                                                                    such as meals at municipal cafeterias
                                                                                                                                                    and beds in municipally run shelters.
                                                                                                                                                                                      see pg. 3

    F                                                                                                                                               Get the City Card
          ollowing the June 6 and 7 local elections where no candidate received 50 percent of the vote, a second ballot is
          needed to determine Florence’s next mayor. On June 21, a run-off vote will pit centre-left candidate and former
          president of the province Matteo Renzi, who received 47.57 percent of the vote, and centre-right candidate                                 Access to municipal museums
    Giovanni Galli, who got approximately 32 percent of the vote.
                                                                                                                                                      Local officials recently announced that
       Renzi expressed his disappointment with the results, as most public-opinion polls pointed to him as the probable                             Florence will soon offer a museum card
    winner. Because he failed to secure 50 percent or more of the votes, Renzi and Galli, called by the press, respectively,                        to both residents and tourists. The card
    the ‘boy scout’ and the ‘footballer’, will face each other in the run-off. The race has attracted the attention of the entire                   would provide access to 36 of the city’s
    country: the centre-right seeks to take hold of Florence, which has traditionally been a centre-left town and one of the                        municipal museums, including the Stib-
    most durable ‘fortresses of the left’ in Italy. Renzi has said that he will not seek alliances with any of the other parties                    bert, the House of Dante, the Science
    from the first ballot, while Galli has declared himself open to ‘conversations’ with the former candidates. Stay tuned to                       Museum, Palazzo Strozzi, the Fondazi- for the results of the June 21 run-off.                                                                                   one Alinari and Santa Maria Novella.
                                                                                                                           see pg. 4
                                                                                                                                                                                      see pg. 3
  Pick-up points                                                                       
  150 points of distribution in town - 10,000 copies bi-weekly
Bars, cafes and restaurants. 4 Leoni Restaurant, Accademia Restaurant, Caffé Pitti Restaurant, Colle
Bereto Discobar, Finnegan Irish Pub, House of Sizzle Restaurant, La Rotonda Restaurant, Mama’s Bakery, The Oil                                         letters to the editor
Shoppe, Old Stove Irish Pub, Olio & Convivium, Ora d’Aria Restaurant, Palle d’Oro Trattoria, Piansa Café, Procacci,
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away, Teatro del Sale, The Friend’s Pub, The Lion’s Fountain Irish Pub, The Via dell’Acqua Diner, Tijuana Mexican
Restaurant, Vestri Chocolate.
Bookstores & libraries. BM Bookshop, British Library, Edison Bookstore, Feltrinelli International, I’ Libraio
Bookshop & Emporium, Mandragora Book & Art Stores, Paperback Exchange.
Hotels. B&B Il Salotto di Firenze, Classic Hotel, Four Seasons Hotel, Gallery Art Hotel, Grand Hotel, Hotel Alba,
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Palace, Palazzo Antellesi Apartments, Palazzo Tornabuoni Residence Club, Plus Hostel Florence, Relais Piazza
Signoria, The Westin Excelsior Hotel, Wallart Hotel, Windows on Italy Apartments, Youth Firenze 2000.                  I just returned home from Florence. My family and I spent 10 days there (we
Shops, salons and health clubs. Alchemilla Herbalist, Beaded Lily Handmade Jewelry, Ethic, Casini                      have visited now three times in the past three years) and I cannot tell you how
Leather shop, Contrasto-Aveda salon, Ginger Lily Gift shop, Klab Conti Wellness Gym, Leonardo Shoes, Lory              disappointed we were to find Donatello’s David was not at the Bargello. This was
Copy Store, Santa Croce Wine & Co. wineshop, SKIN Aesthetic Medical Clinic, Wellness Center Pitti Palace - Hair
& Beauty.                                                                                                              our daughter’s first visit to Florence and we specifically went to the Bargello to
Travel & tourist. APT Florence Airport Arrivals Desk, APT Headquarters, APT Tourist Information, APT                   see David. When we learned the sculpture was not there, we did not buy tickets
Tourist Information Fiesole, Florence For Fun Tours, The Original and Best Walking Tours, Tourist Information          or even visit. Imagine our surprise when we read that it was not being loaned to
Borgo S. Croce, Tourist Information Rail Station Square.
 is made possible thanks to support from the                                                                           another museum but was on display at a trade show. Why not take the copy to
Universities, Institutes and Language schools. ABC School, Accademia del Giglio, Accademia
  is made possible thanks to support from the
Italiana, AIFS Study Abroad, American Language Center, Angel Art School, API Academic Program Int., CSU                the trade show? When we are in the city for a limited period of time, my expec-
California St. University, CAPA Study Center, CEA Florence, CET Academic Programs, CLIDA Dante Alighieri
Language Center, Eurocentres Florence, Europass Language School, European University, Farfield University,             tation is that the masterpieces will be available to see. I cannot believe the city
Florence University of the Arts, FSU Florida St. University, GE Florence Learning Center, GIA Gemological              of Florence, where art is so important, would agree to such an arrangement as
Institute of America, Gonzaga University, Harding University, JMU James Madison University, Kent State
University, Koiné, Leonardo da Vinci, Lorenzo de’ Medici School, New York University - Villa La Pietra - Villa Ulivi   this. We were disappointed but also question the validity of removing this art-
- Villa Natalia, Palazzo Spinelli Art Restoration, Perseo Jewelry School, FIT - Polimoda, Richmond University,         works from public view as well as the wisdom of moving it to another location.
SACI Studio Art Centers Int., Sarah Lawrence College, SQUOLA Center for Contemporary Italian Studies, SRISA
Santa Reparata Int. School of Art, Stanford University, Syracuse University, The British Institute of Florence, The
Florence Academy of Art, The Institute at Palazzo Rucellai, The International School.
                                                                                                                       Our opportunity to see Donatello’s David is now lost. I think this is unfair to
Others. British Consulate, Il Varco dei Biffi, GE Nuovo Pignone, Guess, Menarini, Odeon Theatre Cinehall,              those of us who will not have the opportunity to see this masterpiece. Count
Regione Toscana Giunta Regionale, St. James Church, St. Marks English Church, The Florentine, Unicef, US               me as an art lover who is extremely disappointed and even astounded at this
Consulate General.
                                                                                                                       lack of judgment and rather cavalier attitude.
                                                                                                                       Jane Wall
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                                                                                                  News & Views                                                                                          3                                                                                                                                                             Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                                                                                          Florence NEWS
                                                               The results are in!                                                                            Table of CONTENTS
 quindicinale/every other week                                 Winners and losers in the provincial and EU elections                                        Florence News                      3-5
 redazione via dei Banchi 4 - 50123 Firenze
                                                                                                                                                            National News                        6
 ph. 055 2306616 - fax 055 9060996
                                                               I n addition to the local mayoral race, Italians were called to the polls on June 6
                                                                 and 7 to vote in provincial and European Union (EU) elections as well. Despite a
                                                               decrease in turnout for the national and European vote, these elections followed             Sport News                           7
 executive director Marco Badiani                              the current trend toward support for the centre-right. A brief summary of the elec-
 managing editor Alexandra Lawrence                            tion results follows:                                                                        Movie Reviews                           8
 news editor Brenda Dionisi
                                                               PROVINCIAL ELECTIONS: Andrea Barducci was elected president of the province
 cultural editor Jane Fortune
                                                               of Florence with 55.47 percent of the vote. Barducci, who represents the Partito             Events                           9 - 13
 events Marco Badiani
 copy editor Ellen Wert                                        Democratico (PD), the Italy of Values party (IdV), the Sinistra per la provincia and the     What’s happening in Florence
                                                               Comunisti Fiorentini party, received more votes than the centre-right candidate,
 this issue’s contributors
 James Douglas, Deirdre Pirro, Sabine Eiche,
                                                               Samuele Bardini, who ran for the People of Freedom (PdL) and Northern League
 Linda Falcone, Francesco Stefanelli,                          parties and got 30.73 percent of the vote. Other candidates running for provincial           Italian Sketches                       14
 Melinda Gallo, Melissa Morozzo,                               president were Andrea Calò (5.93 percent), Federico Tondi (4.55 percent), Claudia            Guccio Gucci
 Rea Stavropoulos, Matt O’Leary                                Agati (1.28 percent), Simone Faini (1.05 percent), and Corrado Olivotti (0.95 per-
 interns Kim Chi Ha                                            cent). Voter turnout for the provincial elections was 75.37 percent.
 pubblicità/sales Giacomo Badiani                              EUROPEAN UNION (EU) ELECTIONS: Italy’s centre-right parties came out ahead in                Kids Page                              16                                   the European elections, in keeping with most of the EU, in a vote marked by record-          Brunelleschi and his dome
 classified & subscription Giovanni Giusti                      breaking low turnout and concern about the economic crisis. Across the EU, only                                      43 percent of eligible voters exercised their right; Italy led the EU in voter turnout                                 with 66.5 percent of eligible voters in Italy going to the polls, but it was a record        Il Fatto Bello                         17
 accounting/payments/invoices                                  low for Italy.                                                                               Claiming the continent
 Deborah Bettazzi                                                 Italian premier Silvio Berlusconi’s centre-right PdL party took 35.23 percent of                                   the votes yet lost some ground since the previous election. The PdL’s main ally, the         Book Review
                                                               Northern League, was one of the big winners, attaining its best result ever: 10.21
 graphic design Leo Cardini -
 layout Cathy Gale                                             percent (up from 8.3 percent in 2008). The centre-left PD lost ground, slipping to           Stay Close: A mother’s story
 web Antonio Lo Iacono -                        26.14 percent of the vote after taking 33.2 percent in 2008. The centre-left’s IdV           of her son’s addiction
 direttore responsabile Silvia Bini                            party, however, collected a record number of votes with 8 percent of the vote; it
 editore B’Gruppo s.r.l.                                       took 4.4 percent in 2008. The Union of Center party won 6.51 percent of the vote,            Expats in Florence                     18
 via Valentini 10 - 59100 Prato                                also an improvement over 5.6 percent of votes in 2008. None of Italy’s other parties
 iscritta al registro degli operatori di comunicazione (ROC)                                                                                                Rebecca Milner
                                                               broke the 4-percent threshold at the national level.
 al n. 14773 del 17/11/2006 - Reg. Trib. di Prato n.4
 del 12/09/06
 printer Nova Arti Grafiche srl, Signa (FI)                                                                                                                  Be Green in Flo                        19
 The Florentine is printed on certified ‘well-managed forest’
 eco-paper’ with vegetable-based biodegradable ink and
                                                               New law makes waves                                                  continued from pg.1
                                                                                                                                                            On yer bike
                                                               Although the new measure does make a distinction between legal and illegal im-
 Distribution CMO Group
                                                               migrants, it seeks to give added support to those who have permits to live and
                                                                                                                                                            Travel & Leisure                       20
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                                                                                                                                                            in a Florentine garden
 (see complete list on website);                               reaction of its supporters and opponents reflected the deep divide: its supporters
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 Methods of payment:                                           which, its opponents maintain, will make Tuscany a haven for illegal migrants.
 Paypal (credit card) by email to                                  President of the Tuscan region, Claudio Martini, has stated on several occasions                                 that the law ‘is not one that seeks to oppose the national government; it was first
 Cash c/o our office                                             drafted during the last Prodi government [2006], and it has not been changed. It
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                                                               issues. We will not become a haven for illegal immigrants…we will, instead, stop a
 c/c 78620416 to B’Gruppo srl                                  war against the poorer people in our region, a war that has already begun thanks
 Chiuso in stampa Lunedì 15/06/2009                            to the budget cuts in the welfare sector by the national government.’                               Send us your thoughts,
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4                                                                             News & Views
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                           

    Florence NEWS
                                                                                                                                        KEEPING KIDS SAFE
      News in BRIEF                                                                                                                   Lucca builds first self-sustainable,
                                                                                                                                             anti-seismic school
    A heavy price to pay
    When Luca Calcagnini, a butch-
    er from Vernio (Prato), left a bot-
                                                                                                                                      T   uscany inaugurated its first anti-
                                                                                                                                          seismic school building in Galli-
                                                                                                                                      cano, in the province of Lucca.
    tle of wine on a table outside                                                                                                        The school, which will house over
    his shop during a town festival,
    hoping to attract customers, he
                                            A new view of Florence                                                                    400 elementary and middle-school
                                                                                                                                      students, is not only able to with-
    did not expect to be fined 5,040         Restored walkway in PalazzoVecchio                                                        stand quakes measuring up to 9 de-
                                                                                                                                      grees on the Mercalli scale, but it is
    euro for occupying public prop-
                                                                                                                                      also self-sustainable.
    erty without a permit. When
    his appeals were not granted,          C    ity officials recently re-opened a
                                                fourteenth-century perch once
                                           used in defending the city from mili-
                                                                                       and shot arrows at enemy armies
                                                                                       during attacks.
                                                                                          Closed for more than 10 years for
                                                                                                                                          Gallicano is located in a high-risk
                                                                                                                                      zone for quakes, explain local au-
    to express his unhappiness,                                                                                                       thorities. Accordingly, the school’s
    he decided to pay with small           tary attacks.                               lack of personnel and then a three-            anti-seismic design is based on 46
                                              Forty-two metres above ground            year, 560,000-euro restoration effort,         cylinder-shaped ‘seismic isolators’
    change—very small change. He
                                           level, a walkway traverses the four-        the walkway was re-opened on June 8.           upon which the 1500m2 structure
    drove to the local police station      teenth-century walls of Palazzo                For the remainder or June, guided           rests. In the event of an earthquake,
    in an Ape truck filled with 400         Vecchio. With its commanding view           visits are by appointment only (tick-          the isolators would absorb the move-
    kilos of 1-, 2- and 5-cent copper      of the surrounding area, it was used        ets are 8 euro; call 055/2768224).             ments and force from the shocks.
    coins. According to the press, it      for patrol. Called the Cammina-             From July on, two guided visits a                  ‘This is a novel building technique
    took Calcagnini two and a half         mento della Ronda, from this spot           day will be organized for groups of            taken from the Japanese experience
    years to collect the coins.            Florence’s soldiers dropped buck-           30 people or more (times are yet to            and modeled to meet our needs
                                           ets of boiling oil on and threw rocks       be announced).                                 against the threat of earthquakes in
    Bus drivers to strike                                                                                                             Italy’, explained architect of the proj-
                                                                                                                                      ect, Alfredo Macerini.
    Florence commuters will have to
    find alternative means for travel
    on June 26: local trade unions
                                                                   The night shift                                                        ‘Other buildings being construct-
                                                                                                                                      ed in Italy using these same tech-
                                                                                                                                      niques are located in such high-risk
    recently announced that Ataf                     Local officials greenlight expanded hours                                         zones as Francavilla, Mulazzo and
    drivers will be on strike from                                                                                                    Fivizzano. In addition to ensuring

                                                  s in Milan, Pisa, and other European cities, public and private con-                safety and stability during a quake,
    6am to 11:45am and 3:35pm                     struction firms can now work in Florence 24 hours a day. Florence
    to 11:30pm. For more informa-                                                                                                     they are all functional, aesthetically
                                                  vice mayor Giuseppe Matulli recently met with top officials from the                 pleasing and ecological structures’,
    tion call Ataf at 055/56501 or         local Asl and Arpat to discuss the possibility of allowing road and construc-              Macerini added. Tuscany, along with
    see                      tion work at night in order to ease traffic congestion and other problems                   Lazio and Molise, adopted legislation
                                           during the day.                                                                            calling for anti-seismic construction
    Summer surveillance                       There is no municipal law against the proposal, but the vice mayor did                  following the 2006 earthquake in the
    Municipal police and Carabin-          emphasize that the city will not opt for nighttime construction for its proj-              central Italian region of Molise.
    ieri police will be on 24-hour         ects because it is too costly, citing an average 30-percent increase in ex-                    In 2009, the Tuscan region set
    patrol in Piazza Santo Spirito         penses for overnight labor.                                                                aside 19 million euro toward the
                                              Matulli also stressed concerns about noise pollution, pointing out that by              reconstruction of 51 state schools.
    until mid-September, local of-
                                           law, road and other construction work must not cause more noise greater                    According to regional authorities,
    ficials report, to enforce anti-al-     than 50 decibels by day and 53 decibels by night. As long as this limit is                 1,454 public buildings, among them
    cohol laws and monitor behav-          respected, he explained, private firms may work overnight.                                  964 schools, need to be brought up
    ior. A ban on take-out drinks in                                                                                                  to code.
    glass containers is also in effect
    throughout summer months,
    from 10pm to 4am every day.
                                             A TUSCAN ELDORADO?                                                                        FOLON IN FLORENCE
                                             Foreign-owned businesses flourish in Florence                                                    Artist's wife donates
    From the silver                                                                                                                           artwork to the city
    screen to the catwalk
    American actor, producer and             W       ith over 10,000 businesses owned by non-Italians, Florence is Italy’s
                                                     fifth most affluent city in terms of foreign-owned businesses. Increas-
                                             ingly, foreign-born entrepreneurs are looking to the Florence province for its           W      idow of the late Belgian artist
                                                                                                                                             Jean Michel Folon has donat-
    film director John Malkovich was                                                                                                   ed a small group of her husband’s
                                             promising economy and investment potential.
    in Prato in late May to check on            The number of businesses operated by immigrants has tripled over the                  artworks to the city of Florence.
    the progress of his new fashion          last 10 years, according to a recent study conducted by the University of                Nine statues and two drawings will
    collection, which is being man-          Florence. The data collected shows that the majority of foreign-born en-                 be displayed at the city’s rose gar-
    ufactured there. On May 29,              trepreneurs in Tuscany own businesses in the construction sector (43.4                   den, located just below Piazzale Mi-
    Malkovich met with Prato mayor           percent), followed by commerce (22.3 percent), the textile and garment-                  chelangelo. The statues will be part
                                                                                                                                      of the permanent museum at the
    Marco Romagnoli, who gave him            making industry (20.08 percent), agriculture (3.3 percent), professional
                                                                                                                                      Giardino delle Rose, set to open in
    an official seal of the city.             services (2.6 percent), transportation (2.2 percent), restaurants and hotels
                                                                                                                                      spring 2010. One sculpture will be
                                             (0.9 percent) and personal services and assistance (0.6 percent).                        placed on display at the headquar-
                                                Figures also reveal that of the 5,116 foreigners who own businesses in                ters of the Tuscan region in Palazzo
                                             the local artisan trades, 18 percent are women.                                          Sacrati Strozzi.

                                                               American Independence Day at Villa Demidoff
                                                                                                            war), and a mini street fair for volunteer associations, com-
                                          G     et your calendars out and circle the 4th of July to cel-
                                                ebrate American Independence Day at the Tuscan              munity groups, professionals, and businesses who offer
    COMMUNITY NEWS                        American Association’s traditional picnic. The day kicks off
                                          at 9am in Poggio a Caiano, where a plaque will be dedi-
                                                                                                            services to the English-speaking community. Little ones will
                                                                                                            have a ball in the kiddie corner, with a host of special games,
    TF’s community news column            cated to Filippo Mazzei, a Tuscan promoter of liberty and         activities...even pony rides! American barbeque—including
    introduces English-speaking           close friend of Thomas Jefferson. Mazzei is said to be the        hamburgers and hot dogs grilled to perfection—and lots of
    groups and associations and
                                          author of the phrase ‘All men are created equal’, which later     Tuscan specialities will be on hand throughout the night. The
    highlights news of specific
    interest to the English-speaking      became one of the founding principles of the Declaration of       party continues with music and dancing until midnight.
    community in Florence. Let us         Independence.                                                      For information on having a stand at the mini street fair,
    know you are out there, email           Beginning at 5pm, Villa Demidoff and Pratolino Park come        contact Cathleen Compton at cathleen.compton@gmail.           to life with live music, sports (volleyball, soccer and tug-of-   com. Stay tuned for updates on
                                                                          News & Views                                                                                      5                                                                                                                                 Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                                                                 Florence NEWS
                                                                                                                                                       continued from pg.1
         THE PAST
                                                                                          A living will                           Get the City Card
                                                                                                                                   Access to municipal museums
  Ancient Rome beneath our feet                                                                                                       According to the local press, the
                                                                                                                                  cards will be available at tourist of-
 C    ity workers recently uncovered
      the remains of a Roman temple
 dating back to the second century
                                                                                                                                  fices and hotels by the end 2009.
                                                                                                                                      The tourist card will cost 20
 AD, beneath Piazza San Firenze.                                                                                                  euro and last for 48 hours, during
    Experts believe that the remains,                                                                                             which time visitors can ride all Ataf
 which include a spiral column and                                                                                                and Tra-in buses and enter any of
 hundreds of multicoloured mosaic                                                                                                 the participating museums free of
 fragments, were part of an ancient                                                                                               charge. Locals will pay 50 euro for
 Roman temple dedicated to Isis, the                                                                                              their city card, valid for one year
 Egyptian goddess of motherhood                                                                                                   and allowing only free entrance to
 and fertility.                                                                                                                   the participating city-run muse-
    The workers were digging a five-                                                                                               ums.

 by three-metre hole, barely four me-              nticipating the late-June pas-   ‘to not undergo any therapeutic or                Both cards will include a pocket-
 tres deep, for a new water cistern for            sage of a national law that      life support treatment (forced food           sized map of the city.
 the courthouse’s sprinkler system.                would allow for living wills,                                                      Local officials hope that the Flor-
                                                                                    and water)’ in case of illness or in
    Much Roman Florence has yet to         the city of Pisa has opened a reg-                                                     ence’s state-run museums and gal-
 be discovered, city officials note.                                                 the case of incapacitation or irre-
                                           ister, the first in Tuscany. The Pisa     versible brain damage.                        leries, which include the Uffizi Gal-
                                           city council made the decision in            The document is legally valid as          lery, the Galleria dell’Accademia,
                                           response to a petition with a long                                                     Palazzo Pitti and the Cappelle Med-
       ROLL THE DICE                       list of signatures that citizens pre-
                                                                                    long as it is completed by an individ-
                                                                                    ual who has ‘full capacity of his/her
                                                                                                                                  icee, among others, will join the ini-
                                           sented.                                                                                tiative in the near future. Currently,
        IN TUSCANY?                            Functioning much like an ar-
                                                                                    mental facilities and ability to freely       free entrance to the state museums
                                                                                    choose’. Individuals must also name           is available through membership in
    Minister proposes casino               chive, the register will be housed in
                                           the offices of Palazzo Gambacorti.        a representative who would be in              the Friends of the Uffizi, good for
                                           The office will collect declarations      charge of making decisions based on           one year, and a cost-saver for those
                                           from Pisa citizens regarding the         the directives of the living will.            visitors who plan to either cover
                                           medical action they would prefer in          ‘The wills will be collected, archived    several museums or make multiple
                                           case of grave illness or injury.         and filed by number to guarantee the           visits to a few: see www.amicidegli-
                                               The living will is based on a mod-   certainty of date and source’, said 
                                           el drafted by the Umberto Veronesi       Maria Paola Ciccone, municipal su-
                                           Foundation. Residents filing a living     perintendent of social health policies.
                                           will must state whether they choose                                                         SEAL-SPOTTING
                                                                                                                                       Endangered species
                                                                    True LOVE                                                              resurfaces
  A    lthough lacking the final seal of
       approval, it’s a done deal, many
  locals believe: Tuscany will soon         Japanese art lover gives inheritance to the city
  have a casino.
      Tourism minister Michela Bram-
  billa announced the proposal while       T   akaharu Miyashita loves Florence and Italian Renaissance art so much
                                               that he is donating his inheritance to restore the Cappella Maggiore in
                                           Florence’s Santa Croce Basilica.
  on a recent visit to the Versilia and
  suggested also that Tuscany’s ca-           A professor at the University of Kanazawa, Miyashita is a well-known
  sino would move according to the
  season. From January to June, it
                                           scholar of Italian Renaissance art. Following the recent death of his parents,
                                           he inherited 12,000,000 yen (about 90,000 euro), which he has decided to
                                           donate to help pay for the four-year restoration effort, already underway, by
                                                                                                                                  O     ne of the world’s most en-
                                                                                                                                        dangered seals was recently
                                                                                                                                  spotted off the coast of the Tuscan
  would be in Viareggio; from July to
  December in Montecatini Terme.           expert restorers from the Opificio delle Pietre Dure.                                   island of Giglio.
      The casino would be part of a           Restoration of the Cappella Maggiore was made possible through a pre-                   A young Mediterranean monk
  nationwide project to boost tour-        vious 15,000,000-yen contribution by Miyashita and Tetsuya Kuroda. As a                seal ‘showed off for about two hours,
  ism, and it would be one of five or six   result of Miyashita’s donations and scholarship on Florence and its artistic           surfacing and diving, coming and
  around the country. The project will     treasures, a collaborative accord was signed by the University of Kanazawa,            going’, said Marco Prete, one of the
  likely begin in late 2010, Brambilla     the Opera di Santa Croce and the Opificio delle Pietre Dure to help pro-                tourists sunbathing on rocks of the
  told officials in the Versilia.           mote Florence and Renaissance art in Japan.                                            tiny isle when the seal appeared.
      City officials in Viareggio and                                                                                                  ‘Luckily there were only a few
  Montecatini say they are thrilled at                                                                                            of us there to see it, and nobody

  the prospect.                                                                                                                   decided to jump in the water, so it
      In Montecatini, plans are to house                                                                                          could enjoy itself undisturbed just a
  the casino in a turn-of-the-century,                                                                                            few metres from the rocks’, he told
  former thermal springs centre, called                                                          Call Home Free                   the local Giglio News.
  the Kursaal.                                                                                                                        The International Union for the
      Meanwhile, in Viareggio, officials                                                    For all Italian cell phones            Conservation of Nature estimates
  have identified two possible loca-                                                                                               the current global population of
  tions: the congress Centre on Viale
                                                                                          calling from Italy & Europe
                                                                                                                                  Mediterranean monk seals is about
  Marconi or the Grand Hotel Royal                                                                                                350–450 individuals. Most of
  along the Lungomare Carducci.                                                           Calls to the US at 18 ¢ /min
                                                                                                                                  the monk seal population lives in
      The local press also reports that                                                                                           Greece and Turkey, but about 150
  the former casino in Bagni di Lucca                                                 Calls from Europe at 32 ¢ /min
                                                                                                                                  are thought to inhabit the Atlantic
  will re-open its doors for electronic
                                                                                                                                  coast of North Africa off Morocco,
  gambling. Constructed in 1839, the                                                        Recharge your Vodafone®
  Casino Reale di Ponte a Serraglio                                                                                               Madeira and Mauritania.
  was the first casino built in Europe.                                                                                                According to spokesperson of
                                                                                          TIM® or WIND® plan on-line              for the Tuscan archipelago, Umberto
  When it re-opens, instead of roulette
  and poker tables, it will feature an                                                                                            Mazzanti, the Mediterranean monk
  array of gambling machines. Local                                                                    Get your Free              seal lived in Italian waters until the
  officials hope it becomes the most                                                             Trial minutes now at              1960s. On the rare occasions when
  prestigious, high-tech casino in Eu-                                                                                            the endangered seal is spotted, it is
  rope.                                                                                              usually around the island of Sardinia.
6                                                                             News & Views
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                      

    National NEWS
       News in BRIEF                          Airborne art                                                                              THROUGH A
    A nip here, a tuck there                                                                                                          DIFFERENT LENS
    Plastic surgery is becoming more
    commonplace in Italy, especially                                                                                              Edible bonus for employees
    among those over 65. Data re-
    leased at a recent conference re-
    veals that 45 percent of Italy’s 12                                                                                          I nstead of cash, employees of Italian
                                                                                                                                   company Luxottica, the world’s larg-
                                                                                                                                 est eyewear manufacturer, will receive
    million seniors are in good physical
    condition and opt for procedures                                                                                             pasta, olive oil, coffee and even Nutella
    to retain their beauty and regain                                                                                            as their annual merit bonuses.
    a more youthful appearance. Ital-                                                                                                Two years ago, owner of Luxot-
    ian physicians report that one out                                                                                           tica, Leonardo Del Vecchio, in coop-
    of every two patients undergoing                                                                                             eration with the unions that represent
    plastic surgery is over 65.                                                                                                  the company’s workers, began this
                                                                                                                                 experimental policy when he became
    Seeking an end to piracy                           Renzo Piano brings paintings to ‘life’                                    concerned about rising taxes for both
    International leaders from 40                                                                                                the firm and his 8,000 employees. He
    countries met in Rome on June 9                                                                                              also noted increasing financial difficul-
    and 10 to address the escalating

                                                       hy hang art when it can fly?      tant artists of the post-war avant-      ties for his employees, which have only
    threat of piracy from Somalia. At                  To display the works of Ve-      garde movement, gained interna-          worsened during the economic crisis.
    the 15th meeting of the Interna-                   netian abstract artist Emilio    tional acclaim in the 1950s follow-          The company’s merit-based staff
    tional Somalia Contact Group, Ital-      Vedova (1919–1996) at Venice’s Mu-         ing a solo show in New York and          bonus plan integrates salaries with
    ian foreign minister Franco Frattini     seo Vedova, internationally renowned       a collective show at the 26th Ven-       non-monetary benefits. Luxottica’s em-
    said piracy was ‘just the tip of the     Italian architect Renzo Piano has put      ice Bienniale in 1952. In 1960, he       ployee benefit plan also includes
    iceberg of Somalia’s problems’ and       the works on the move throughout           won the Bienniale’s Grand Prize for      schoolbooks and scholarships for the
    stressed that it could be eradicat-      the museum so they can be seen from        painting.                                children of its staff, specialized medi-
    ed only by addressing the coun-          a variety of angles.                          The Museo Vedova, located in          cal visits, language courses and day
    try’s political and socio-economic          Suspended in the air by a fleet of       the artist’s former studio near Ven-     care services. This year, the eyewear
    problems, resulting from 18 years        robotic shuttles moving along a track      ice’s salt docks, opened on June 3       manufacturer will offer a ‘grocery bo-
    of civil conflict. Hosting the two-      fixed to the ceiling, Vedova’s most fa-     on occasion of the 53rd Venice Bi-
    day meeting with Somali counter-
                                                                                                                                 nus’, valued at 110 euro per employ-
                                             mous paintings glide through the mu-       ennial art exhibition.                   ee, through which staff will receive
    part Abdullahi Omaar, Frattini said
                                             seum at various heights, periodically         Explaining how he came up with        staples of Italian cuisine from a local
    a ‘global approach’ was needed to
                                             stopping at strategic points under spot-   the idea, Piano said, ‘the warehouses    supermarket.
    resolve the Somalia crisis, and he
                                             lights before moving to another posi-      are narrow and long and so it made           Income taxes would eat up 50
    promised that Italy would do its
                                             tion. The public can view the paintings    sense to imagine that down at the        percent of the bonus if it were in-
    part by offering to train police and
                                             from below or from a mezzanine along       far end, a bit hidden in the shadow,     cluded in employees’ paychecks.
    coast guards in the former Italian
                                             one of the museum’s walls.                 would be the storage facility, and       The company also saves money by
    colony. According to the Interna-
                                                The collection, grouped according       out of this, as if by magic, the works   purchasing the articles in bulk and it
    tional Maritime Bureau, pirates,
    the majority of which come from
                                             to chronological or thematic contexts,     would appear in a certain order.         contributes to the local economy.
    Somalia, have already made 114           is constantly changing, with works         From this came the idea of mobility,
    attempted attacks, hijacked 29           coming out of or going in to a storage     whereby it’s not the spectator who
    ships and taken 478 crewmem-             space at the back of the museum.
                                                Vedova, one of the most impor-
                                                                                        goes to the artwork, but the artwork
                                                                                        that comes to the spectator.’
                                                                                                                                      ITALY’S WAGE GAP
    bers hostage in 2009.
                                                                                                                                     Salaries among the lowest

         CLEANING UP                           A historic visit                                                                  A      ccording to a recent report by
                                                                                                                                        the Organization for Economic Co-
                                                                                                                                 operation and Development (OECD),
                                                                                                                                 Italy workers are among the lowest
          PALERMO                              Gaddafi meets Italian                                                              paid in the developed world, only
                                                                                                                                 ahead of workers in Portugal, the
        Military helps clear                   leaders, strengthen ties                                                          Czech Republic, Poland, Turkey, Slo-
             the streets                                                                                                         vakia, Hungary and Mexico.
                                               O     n his first official visit to Italy, Lib-
                                                     yan leader Muammar al-Gaddafi                                                     Italy ranked 23 out of 30 for av-

  W      hen piles of garbage lined the
         streets of the Sicilian city of
  Palermo in late May, following a week-
                                               made a special request: he wanted to
                                               meet with 700 Italian women leaders
                                                                                                                                 erage net salaries in all categories
                                                                                                                                 studied: single workers, single-in-
                                                                                                                                 come households with two children
                                               in politics, business and culture. In re-
  long wildcat strike by local garbage                                                                                           and double-income households with
                                               sponse, Italian officials organized a con-
  workers, who refused to clear the city’s                                                                                       two children.
                                               ference during which the Libyan leader
  rubbish without the proper equipment,                                                                                               Average wages were calculated in
                                               spoke about the condition of women in
  like boots and gloves, the national gov-                                                                                       dollars and adjusted according to the
                                               his country.
  ernment called in the army.                                                                                                    cost of living in each country. Single
                                                  During the historic three-day visit in Rome, he also met with Italy’s
      Facing a heat wave, locals be-                                                                                             Italian workers without children take
                                               premier, Silvio Berlusconi; Italian president Giorgio Napolitano; for-
  gan setting rubbish bins on fire to                                                                                             home an average of $21,374 a year
                                               eign minister Franco Frattini; senate speaker Renato Schifani; house
  stave off the stench and potential                                                                                             compared to an OECD average of
                                               speaker Gianfranco Fini; and Rome’s mayor, Gianni Alemanno. How-
  health risks, as well as to voice their                                                                                        $25,751. Part of the reason for such
                                               ever, his itinerary did not include a visit to the Vatican and a meeting
  discontent over the strike.                                                                                                    low net salaries is Italy’s high tax rate,
                                               with Pope Benedict XVI.
      Now, with the strike settled on                                                                                            the study stated, estimating that a sin-
                                                  Security was tight as protesters voiced their dissent about the recent
  June 7 and garbage collection re-                                                                                              gle worker without children earning an
                                               Italy-Libya accord to block immigrants from reaching Italian shores.
  sumed, 100 soldiers are also work-                                                                                             average salary relinquishes nearly 45
                                                  Gaddafi’s visit comes following the recent ratification of a friendship
  ing around the clock and help clean                                                                                            per cent of his gross wages to taxes
                                               and cooperation treaty between the two countries.
  up the mounds of rotting refuse                                                                                                and other deductions.
                                                  The treaty is the first step in resolving issues that date back to Italy’s
  around apartments, homes, church-
                                               colonial occupation of the North African country. Among other things,                  Low salaries and the current eco-
  es and other public places.
                                               the accord includes a collaborative effort to fight illegal immigration. It        nomic situation have spurred many
      Workers for the garbage col-
                                               also stipulates that Italy pay Libya $200 million over 25 years to fund           Italians to get second, even third jobs,
  lection firm Amia, which has more
                                               various infrastructure projects and that Italy clear Libya of landmines           to make ends meet, the Italian media
  than 2,000 employees, agreed to
                                               left from the colonial period.                                                    reports, a trend recorded among
  resume garbage collection after
                                                  Gaddafi will return to Italy on July 8 to 10 to attend the Group of             both higher- and lower-income work-
  some of their demands were met.
                                               Eight (G8) summit in the earthquake-hit town of L’Aquila.                         ers in Italy.
                                                                              News & Views                                                                                        7                                                                                                                                      Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                                             Sports & Leisure NEWS
   What’s next for the Viola?                                                                                        Felipe Melo         Sports in BRIEF
                                                                                                                                        New job for Giani
   Transfer season may mean changes on the bench                                                                                        Florence’s outgoing superintendent
                                                                                                                                        of culture and sports, Eugenio Giani,
                                                                                                                                        was recently elected the president

              ith the 2008–2009 Serie A soccer season ending, Fiorentina players                                                        of CONI Provinciale, besting favor-
              will be getting some hard-earned rest. After medical check-ups July                                                       ite Roberto Bellocci 30 to 18 for the
              13–15, the team begins practice on July 16 in the northern Italian                                                        coveted role. Giani’s win came as a
    town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. They will train there for a week and then move to                                                        surprise to many, as did the number
    San Piero a Sieve.                                                                                                                  of votes he garnered. Remarking on
        The end of the Serie A also marks the start of transfer period. Although                                                        Giani’s unexpected win, Bellocci
    Viola team manager Pantaleo Corvino has stated that the team’s limited                                                              said he will leave his presidential
    budget would preclude many changes, there are speculations that there                                                               hopes behind and bow out of sports
    may be a few new faces on the Fiorentina bench next season.                                                                         management for a while. Giani re-
        This season’s Serie A champions, Internazionale, is rumored to be very in-                                                      ports that he is thrilled about his new
                                                                                                                                        position and says he will work hard
    terested in Felipe Melo. The Brazilian sensation, however, continues to reas-
                                                                                                                                        to convince naysayers that he is fit
    sure Fiorentina fans that he does not intend to leave the club this summer.                                                         for the job.
        It has also been reported that Juventus is hoping to swap mid-fielder
    Marco Marchionne for Viola defender Manuel Pasqual.                                                                                 Jump into Costoli
        According to reports in the Corriere dello Sport, Germany’s Bayern Munich                                                       After the long winter break, the Cos-
    is ready to offer 20 million euro for Viola goalkeeper Sebastien Frey. Bay-                                                         toli municipal pool, located on Viale
    ern management has been keeping an eye on the 29-year-old for several                                                               Paoli, has reopened for the summer.
    months and has expressed interest in the French goalee, possibly preparing                                                          Through to August 31, the pool is
    to offer a four-year contract worth 3 million euro a year. Frey, whose contract                                                     open Tuesday to Sunday (including
    with the Fiorentina runs to June 2013, has stated his desire to stay with the                                                       holidays) from 10am to 6pm, Mon-
    Tuscan team.                                                                                                                        days from 2pm to 5pm. Entrance is
                                                                                                                                        6.50 euro for adults (reduced 4.50
                                                                                                                                        euro). Ten-entrance tickets (50 euro)

                                                Azzurri in
                                                                                                                                        are good for weekdays only. Chil-
          NEW VIEW OF                                                                                                                   dren under 7 years enter free and
                                                                                                                                        all children 12 and under must be
         THE MAREMMA                            South Africa                                                                            accompanied by an adult. All swim-
                                                                                                                                        mers must show a valid ID card to
      Ancient paths open to all                                                                                                         access the pool. For more informa-
                                                Italy put to the test in                                                                tion, call 055/6236027.

  F   or millennia, all over the world, farm-
      ers have moved their livestock from
  protected valleys to higher pastures for
                                                Confederations Cup
                                                After beating Northern Ireland 3-0 in      star Davide Santon; Italian-American
  grazing. The Tuscan Maremma is rife           a friendly match in Pisa on June 6, in     Villa Real striker Giuseppe Rossi; and
  with hidden paths and roads created
  as herders in Tuscany and neighboring
                                                anticipation of the start of the FIFA
                                                Confederations Cup tourney in South
                                                                                           Sampdoria striker Giampaolo Pazzi-
                                                                                           ni. These were in addition to veterans
                                                                                                                                        PRATO TO TAKE ON
  Emilia Romagna moved their animals
  over the centuries. Called Le Antiche
                                                Africa, the Italian national football
                                                team made their first ever appearance
                                                                                           and World Cup champs like Gianluigi
                                                                                           Buffon, Rino Gattuso, Andrea Pirlo
                                                                                                                                         THE SUPER TEN
  Dogane della transumanza, several of
  the paths, most of which fell out of use
                                                as World Champions at the pre-World        and Luca Toni.                             Local rugby team moves up
                                                Cup warm-up tournament. On June                Lippi has said that he is out to win
  in the 1950s, are now being cleared
  and mapped for nature lovers to enjoy,
  thanks to a project called Le vie delle
                                                10, the Azzurri triumphed over New
                                                Zealand 4-3 in another international
                                                friendly match held in Pretoria, South
                                                                                           the Confederations Cup by trying to
                                                                                           rebuild the same team spirit that char-
                                                                                           acterized the 2006 World Cup-win-
                                                                                                                                      F   rom national textile center to rug-
                                                                                                                                          by capitol? The Cavalieri Rugby
                                                                                                                                      Prato team will play alongside Italy’s
  acque, created by environmentalist Mas-       Africa.                                    ning squad. However, the 61-year-old       best rugby squads in the Super Ten
  simo Bondi and promoted by the munici-            Following the back-to-back victo-      tactician’s decision to rely on many       national rugby league for the first time
  pality of Manciano (Grosseto).                ries against the paddies and the kiwis,    of the key players on the World Cup        in the club’s history. The Cavalieri
     Three paths are already open to the        the Azzurri put a few more notches         team has upset some fans.                  won first place in the second division
  public and five more will open in coming       on its belt before beginning their Con-        The Confederations Cup runs from       of the Italian rugby union on May 30,
  weeks. The paths, which can be traveled       federations Cup campaign. The team         June 14 to 28 in South Africa. Italy is    when they met L’Aquila. They beat the
  by foot, bicycle, mountain bike or horse-     debuted with a good dose of enthusi-       playing in Group B against the United      Abruzzo squad 25-18 in extra time at
  back, hold a wealth of treasures, among       asm and determination to spare, in-        States, Brazil and Egypt. Italy made its
  them lesser-known thermal springs and
                                                                                                                                      the Stadio Flaminio in Rome to gain
                                                tent on proving to the world that they     Confederations Cup debut on June 15        automatic entrance into the top tier of
  ancient ruins. It is possible to walk from    are still World Cup caliber. Italy coach   against the United States. The Floren-
  one small town to another on the paths,                                                                                             Italy’s national rugby union competi-
                                                Marcello Lippi chose to put some           tine went to press the same day; for       tion. ‘This is a goal we had been work-
  which are lined with thick, Mediterranean     new faces on his 23-man roster, in-        game results in English see www.soc-
  scrub, and along the way take a dip in                                                                                              ing to achieve for years’, commented
                                                cluding Cagliari goalkeeper Federico Italy meets Egypt
  the many fresh water rivers and ponds.                                                                                              club president Fabrizio Tonfoni.
                                                Marchetti; 18-year-old Inter Milan         on June 18 and Brazil on June 21.

  Celebrating the Red Cross
  Commemorations in Solferino and Florence
  F   rom June 28 to July 2, more than 250 youth from around the world will
      gather to take part in a commemorative march from Geneva, Switzer-
  land, to the Italian town of Solferino, near Verona, to celebrate the 150th
  anniversary of the founding of the Italian Red Cross by Henry Dunant.
     Dunant established the Red Cross just months after having traveled to
  the battlefield of Solferino. There he saw thousands of soldiers injured and
  in agony but without any assistance. The volunteer-based humanitarian as-
  sociation he created to aid those wounded in battle later became the Red
  Cross. On June 8, Florence celebrated the 145th anniversary of the local
  division of the Italian Red Cross, the second oldest in Italy after that of
  Solferini. A commemorative event was held on at Palazzo Capponi, on
  Lungarno Soderini, to mark Florence Red Cross’ founding in 1864. The
  Red Cross and city officials also opened a temporary photography exhibit
  on the history of the Red Cross, which was held at Palazzo Capponi from
  June 9 to 14.
8                                                                                  What’s On & Where to Go
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                                                         

    SHOWS in English                                                                                                                                                   JUNE 19 - JULY 2 2009

                                                     ed the film adaptation of that novel, is prob-          towering android sequences and fistfights.         1981 TV series. And it’s inevitable that com-
  MOVIE REVIEWS                                      ably best-placed to direct Angels & Demons,
                                                     which tells the story of the Illuminati secret
                                                                                                             It gives you all the pleasure of a video game
                                                                                                             without the bother of having to play it.’ (Roger
                                                                                                                                                                parisons will be made and the new impostor
                                                                                                                                                                found wanting. Julian Jarrold’s Brideshead
                                                     brotherhood and their threat to the existence           Ebert, Chicago Sun-Times)                          Revisited is the first movie version. It is
by James Douglas                                     of the Catholic Church. Elemental trickery                                                                 ‘middle class’ Charles Ryder’s poignant and
                                                     with air, earth, fire and water is assembled                                                               nostalgic account of his entanglement with
 ODEON ORIGINAL                                      with Brown’s usual mumbo-jumbo and a                                                                       the aristocratic Flyte family, the Marchmains
 SOUND AT THE ODEON                                  cracking yarn is promised to those who care             REVENGE OF THE FALLEN                              of Brideshead, principally brother and sister
                                                     about these things. ‘The antimatter is sus-             Friday June 26 , Saturday June 27                  Sebastian and Julia, before World War II, and
 Piazza Strozzi, 2 055 214068                          pended, there, in an airtight nano-composite            & Sunday June 28 ü 5.15 - 8.00 - 10.45 p.m.        the perils of misplaced love and issues of
                                                     shell with electromagnets on each end. But                                                                 religious faith. This adaptation’s weaknesses
                                                                                                             Monday June 29 & Tuesday June 30
                                                     if it were to fall out of suspension, and come                                                             may lie in its over-ambitious attempt at com-
CHOKE                                                into contact with matter, say with the bot-             5.30- 9.00 p.m.                                    pression and its understated treatment of
Thursday June 18 ü 5.00 - 6.55 - 8.45 - 10.35 p.m.   tom of the canister, the two opposing forces            Revenge is coming. Shia LaBeouf returns as         Waugh’s themes. ‘The film, conventionally
Victor Mancini (Sam Rockwell) is a sex addict        would annihilate one another. Violently.’ So            Sam Witwicky in the spectacular sequel to          made, is no great pleasure to watch. No one
with a neat scam for raising funds to support        says glamorous side-kick Vittoria Vetra. She            Transformers, again collaborating with the         involved seems greatly interested in the moral
his ailing dotty mother: pretending to choke         must know what she’s talking about.                     Autobots in the battle against the Decepti-        and historical issues it deals with, as opposed
to death in restaurants and milk the sympathy                                                                cons, although it’s not his war. But then fate     to the opportunities it offers for costume
transmuted into dollars from bystanders.                                                                     rarely calls upon us at a moment of our choos-     parades and shots of Oxford, Castle Howard
Choke is a straightforward juvenile dirty sex        TERMINATOR SALVATION                                    ing. Michael Bay’s Transformers: Revenge           and Venice’ (Philip French, The Observer). Nev-
comedy based on whizzkid Chuck Palahniuk’s                                                                   of the Fallen boasts astounding CGI in its         ertheless, it’s a Brideshead worth revisiting.
                                                     Tuesday June 23 ü 5.30 - 8.10 - 10.30 p.m.              action sequences, a gripping revenge theme
novel of the same name. ‘It adds up to an en-
tertaining collection of vignettes strung to-        Thursday June 25ü 5.30 - 8.10 - 10.30 p.m.              and a surprise twist at the end. Hugo Weaving
gether by a sarcastic loudmouth whose heart          In Terminator Salvation (aka Terminator 4)              voices Megatron again. The movie is being
is breaking under his sophomoric bravado’            Christian Bale steps into the Schwarzenegger            released more or less simultaneously around          BRITISH INSTITUTE
(New York Times). ‘A singularly vulgar piece         role as John Connor, who now finds himself              the globe but advance publicity suggests that        Lungarno Guicciardini, 9
of work” (Washington Post). ‘It’s an indelibly       in 2018 leading the resistance against Skynet           for spectacle and entertainment this particular
warped cartoon of lust and despair’ (Entertain-      terminators bent on eliminating mankind, and            summer blockbuster is a cut above the rest.          055 267781
ment Weekly) and that’s a recommendation!            tussling with a man who may be from the fu-             Transformers sceptics should be won over by
                                                     ture or the past. McG directs what he describes         this undeniably exciting sequel.
                                                     as a homage to 1970s and 1980s science fic-                                                                PUNTER’S CHOICE
ANGELS & DEMONS                                      tion cinema—the best—and obviously James
Monday June 22 ü 5.30 - 8.00 - 10.30 p.m.            Cameron’s original Terminator (1984). His effort,
                                                                                                             BRIDESHEAD REVISITED                               Best movie made since 1994. Result to be
Harvard symbologist Robert Langdon (Tom              though, is unlikely to attain the classic status        Wednesday July 1 & Thursday July 2                 announced. Poll leader so far and likely win-
Hanks) is on the trail of mysterious ancient         of Cameron’s. ‘Most of the running time is oc-          5.30 - 8.00 -10.30 p.m.                            ner is Roberto Benigni’s controversial 1997
forces in Ron Howard’s adaptation of Dan             cupied by action sequences, chase sequences,            It could be said to be foolhardy to attempt        ‘holocaust comedy’ LA VITA E’ BELLA (Life is
Brown’s novel Angels & Demons, the prequel           motorcycle sequences, plow-truck sequences,             another version of Evelyn Waugh’s novel,           Beautiful).
to The Da Vinci Code. Howard, having direct-         helicopter sequences, fighter-plane sequences,          already brilliantly adapted in the celebrated

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                                                                                             What’s On & Where to Go                                                                                     9                                                                                                                                                                Thursday 18 June 2009
  All events included in this section are edited by The Florentine’s staff.
  The Florentine is not responsible for programme changes.
  If you would like to submit an event, please fill out the form at:
                                                                                                                                                              TOP PICKS
 EVENTS                                                                                                    CONCERTS
                                         ‘Fochi’ di San Giovanni                                                              Claudio Baglioni in concert
                                         St. John’s Fireworks Display                                                         June 22 and 23 at 9:15pm
                                         June 24 Florence                                                                     Boboli Gardens (Prato delle colonne)
                                         Florence celebrates its patron saint, San Giovanni, on June                          What better way to spend an early summer evening than lounging in
                                         24 and the day is a local holiday. Florentine merchants                              the Boboli Gardens’ open air theatre while listening to one of Italy’s most
                                         close up their shops in anticipation of evening activities.                          popular singers belt out romantic favorites? Baglioni brings his new show,
                                         The city has long marked the Festa di San Giovanni with                              Musical History of a Love that won’t last a lifetime but will change your life
                                         a traditional parade through the centre, a Calcio Storico                            forever.
                                         match in Piazza Santa Croce, and, later in the evening, a                            For ticket information, see or call 055/5978309.
                                         fireworks display over the Arno. Records of the first cel-
                                         ebrations of San Giovanni as the city’s patron saint date        Michael Nyman: The Piano Sings
                                         back to the fourteenth century, when the Baptistery of San       June 24 at 8:30pm Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
                                         Giovanni and the surrounding piazza were the heart of            Popular composer Michael Nyman will perform songs from his latest album, The Piano Sings,
                                         Florence’s religious and political life. The best place to see   a collection of well-known pieces reworked in versions for solo piano. Many of the pieces
                                         the fireworks is along the Lungarno or from one of three         include tracks from previous albums as well as soundtracks for such films as The End of the
                                         most centrally located bridges.                                  Affair, the Diary of Anne Frank, Gattaca and Wonderland.
                                         For more information, call 055/294174.                           Images from various films will provide the background for the composer’s evocative music.
                                                                                                          Call 055/2779350 or visit for ticket information.
‘Nottarno’ White Night in Oltrarno
June 27 Oltrarno, various locations                                                                        EXHIBITS
Florence’s Oltrarno will stay up all night long on June 27 for the
second annual Nottarno summer event. Live music, events,
markets, wine tastings and more take place all over the city’s                                            From Petra to Shawbak.
‘left-bank’, from the Ponte Vecchio to Piazza Tasso. Visit your                                           Archaeology of a Frontier
favorite artisan workshops, stores, cafes, bars and more as eve-                                          June 19 – September 20 Boboli Gardens (Limonaia)
ryone keeps their doors open well into the next morning. For                                              This fascinating exhibition presents the results of the latest research
more information, call 055/2705300 or visit                                            conducted by the archaeological mission of the University of Flor-
                                                                                                          ence over the past 20 years in Petra and Shawbak. Visitors will be
 SPORTS                                                                                                   transported back in time as they are treated to some of the Jordanian
                                                                                                          deserts most amazing treasures. Channel your inner Indiana Jones
World Volleyball League: Italy vs. USA                                                                    and head to this innovative and exciting walk through thousands of
June 19 at 7:30pm Nelson Mandela Forum                                                                    years of ancient history. For more information, call 055/2388736 or
Italy’s national volleyball team takes on the Beijing Olympic champions, Team USA, in a qual-
ifying match for the World League finals. A great chance to witness world champion level
sports first hand right here in Florence.                                                                                         Joconde: From Mona Lisa to a Nude Gioconda
For more information, call 055/678841 or visit                                                               Until September 30 Museo Ideale Leonardo da Vinci, Vinci
                                                                                                                                  Leonardo’s famous portrait has been the subject of numerous other
Notturna di San Giovanni Walking Race                                                                                             works of art over the centuries. This exhibition, held at the recently
June 20 piazza Duomo                                                                                                              restored Museo Ideale Leonardo da Vinci, showcases various cop-
Take off on a 4-, 7- or 10-kilometer race walk through the streets of Florence on a warm sum-                                     ies and renditions of the Mona Lisa—including a Gioconda nuda.
mer night. Now in its 70th edition, the race is the perfect way to see the city’s streets in a new                                For more information, call 0571/568012 or 0571/56614 or visit
way. The shorter races are ideal for kids and families. For more information on how to regis-                           
ter, see (in English) or call 055/5522957.
                                                                                                          Massimo Listri. Biblioteche
 SPECIAL MARKET                                                                                           Until August 2
                                                                                                          Luigi Pecci Contemporary Art Center, Prato
Fortezza Antiquaria Antique Market                                                                        Massimo Listri’s exhibit showcases his photo-
June 20 – 21 Fortezza da Basso gardens                                                                    graphs taken inside some of the world’s most
This eclectic antique market is back in its                                                               famous libraries, including the Vatican Library
regular spot in the Fortezza da Basso gar-                                                                in Rome, the Imola City Library, Trinity College
dens after four and a half years in piazza                                                                in Dublin, St. Gallen in Switzerland, the Mala-
Indipendenza. Over 120 antiques dealers                                                                   testiana Library in Cesena and the National
from all over Italy converge at this market,                                                              Library in Naples. Listri also included two
held every third weekend in Florence. Wind                                                                local libraries especially for the exhibition:
your way through the stalls and discover                                                                  the Laurenziana Library and the Innocenti
treasures ranging from furniture, knick-                                                                  Archives. The catalogue will be the third printing of the 2002 collection of photographs and
knacks, books, prints and collectables. The                                                               introductory text by Umberto Eco, entitled Il fascino delle Biblioteche. FOR Photo Art Research,
market is open from 8am to 7pm both days.                                                                 Florence collaborated on the exhibition.
For more information, call 055/27051.                                                                     For more information, see or call 0574/ 5317.


            Make your life lighter.

                      enjoy your shopping now at
10                                                                           What’s On & Where to Go
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                                                         
                                                                                                                                          All events included in this section are edited by The Florentine’s staff.
                                                                                                                                                      The Florentine is not responsible for programme changes.

     Events in FLORENCE JUN 19 to JUL 2                                                                                If you would like to submit an event, please fill out the form at:

mbership card necessary
FRIDAY 19                                         TUESDAY 23                                       n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                                 n MUSIC & CONCERTS
                                                                                                   Democrats Abroad Florence Lecture Se-                    Festival delle colline - Sunrise Jazz Orche-
n DINNERS                                         n CINEMA                                         ries - Alan Kuperman: “Wishful Thinking                  stra Jazz Music Concert
                                                                                                   Will Not Stop Genocide: How to Improve                   June 28, Piazza del Castello, Vinci, tel.
Shabbat time                                      TERMINATOR SALVATION
                                                                                                   Humanitarian Intervention”                               0571568012,
Starts at 8:41pm until Saturday at 9:55pm         Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie
Shabbat meals are at Ruth’s Kosher vegeta-        page                                             Alan Kuperman taught at SAIS in Bologna and              Itineraries in nineteenth-century Floren-
                                                                                                                                                            ce: Squares and music
rian food on Via Farini 2/a, tel. 0552480888,
                                                  n MUSIC & CONCERTS                               now teaches at the LBJ School of the Univer-
                                                                                                   sity of Texas as a professor of Public Affairs.          June 28, Florence city centre, tel. 0552769717
                                                                                                                                                            – 0552654753,
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                Claudio Baglioni in concert
                                                  June 23 at 9:15pm, Giardino di Boboli, Flo-
                                                                                                   He was also Legislative Director for Congres-
                                                                                                   sman Charles Schumer of New York and has                 Le Pietre Risonanti. A music walk with the
MAGGIO OFF Alessandro Quarta-Dimitri              rence, tel. 0555978309,     a longstanding interest in human rights vio-             musicians from the Fiesole Music School
Naïditch. L’altra faccia del violino - The        Music in the Square                              lations and humanitarian intervention. (www.             Summer in Fiesole 2009 - 62nd edition
other face of the violin                          Firenzestate 2009                                          June 28, Montececeri Park, tel. 0555978548,
72nd Maggio Musicale Fiorentino                   June 23/30, Various locations, Florence, tel.    June 25, English language lecture to be held   
June 19, Piccolo Teatro del Comunale, tel.
                                                  0552767045-6,                   at Syracuse University, Piazza Savonarola 15,
                                                                                                   Thursday from 6:15pm to 7:45pm, admis-                   n GUIDED TOURS
                                                  Natalia Gutman’s cello concert
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                             Summer in Fiesole 2009 - 62nd edition            sion: 1 euro donation to DAF; free snacks,
                                                                                                   cash wine bar; email: kristina.paccione@
                                                                                                                                                            Il Baluardo a San Giorgio - extraordinary
Volleyball World League : Italy vs USA            June 23, Basilica di S.Alessandro, tel.
                                                                                                                                         June 28, Il Baluardo a San Giorgio, info@iba-
June 19, Nelson Mandela Forum, tel.               0555978548,
055678841,                    Un, duo
                                                  Soul sensation - Alessia Alessandri teams up     FRIDAY 26
                                                                                                                                                            MONDAY 29
 SATURDAY 20                                      with the guitar and the funky sounds of Fede-
                                                                                                   n CINEMA
                                                  rico Piras for a live music session. Happiness
                                                  guaranteed.                                                                                               n CINEMA
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                             June 23, Public House Via Palazzuolo 27r,
                                                                                                   TRANSFORMERS: REVENGE OF THE FALLEN
                                                                                                   Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie                TRANSFORMERS: REVENGE OF THE FALLEN
Fortezza Antiquaria Antique Market                free admission                                   page                                                     Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie
June 20 to 21, Giardini della Fortezza da Bas-                                                                                                              page
so, tel. 0553283550                                WEDNESDAY 24                                    n DINNERS                                                n DANCE
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                                                                 Shabbat time                                             Roberto Bolle and friends. Una notte di
Light Across Congo                                n GUIDED TOURS                                   Starts at 8:43pm until Saturday at 9:55pm
                                                                                                   Shabbat meals are at Ruth’s Kosher vegeta-
                                                                                                                                                            grande danza
                                                                                                                                                            July 29 and 30 at 9:15pm, Giardino di Boboli,
Benefit concert for the Congo with original mu-   Il Gioiello. Galileo’s last home                 rian food on Via Farini 2/a, tel. 0552480888,            Florence, tel. 0555978309, www.festivalope-
sic and score, interpreted by Peter Dulborough    June 24, Palazzo Strozzi and other places                              
June 20 at 9pm, Circolo parrocchiale M.C.L.       like the Museo di Storia Naturale dell’Uni-
“L’Incontro”, Parrocchia del Sacro-Cuore, Via     versità di Firenze, tel. 0552346760              n EXHIBITS                                               n MUSIC & CONCERTS
XX Settembre, Tavarnuzze, tickets: 10 euro,
tel. 3492176168, email: peterdulborough@          n MUSIC & CONCERTS                               Eloise Ghioni. La leggerezza profonda del
                                                                                                                                                            Concert by Youth Orchestras - Luigi Che-,                                      MAGGIO OFF. Michael Nyman: The piano                                                                      rubini, Riccardo Muti conductor, Coro La
                                                                                                   Solo Exhibition                                          Stagione Armonica, music by Giovanni                           sings concert                                    Varart, Via dell’Oriuolo 47-49r, tel. 055284265,         Paisiello
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                             72nd Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
                                                  June 24, Piccolo Teatro del Comunale, tel.
                                                                                                   email:, Opening hours: 10am to             72nd Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
70th Notturna di San Giovanni walking                                                              12.30pm and 4 to 7:30pm; Closed on Mon-                  June 29, Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fioren-
                                                  0552779350,             days and holidays
race                                                                                                                                                        tino, tel. 0552779350, www.maggiofiorenti-
June 20, piazza Duomo, tel. 0555522957,           Music Festival
                                                  June 24, Villa La Borraccia and other places:
                                                                                                   n MUSIC & CONCERTS                             
                                                  Badia Fiesolana, tel. 0555978527,                Concert by Orchestra Giovanile Italiana
                                                           - Gianandrea Noseda conductor, music                     TUESDAY 30
 SUNDAY 21                                                                                         by Bedřich Smetana, Igor Stravinskij, An-
                                                  Music in the Square
                                                  See June 23                                      tonín Dvóřak                                             n CINEMA
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                             n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
                                                                                                   72nd Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
                                                                                                   June 26, Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorenti-
                                                                                                                                                            TRANSFORMERS: REVENGE OF THE FALLEN
                                                                                                                                                            Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie
Fortezza Antiquaria - Antique Market              Fochi di San Giovanni – St. John Fireworks       no, tel. 0552779350,                                     page
See June 20                                       Display                                          tel.
The Little Summer Fair                            June 24, Florence, tel. 055294174,                                                                        WEDNESDAY 1
June 21, Piazza S.Spirito, tel. 055697747
                                                                                                   SATURDAY 27
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                                                                                                                          n CINEMA
European Music Festival - Orchestra dei           THURSDAY 25                                      n CINEMA                                                 BRIDESHEAD REVISITED
                                                                                                   TRANSFORMERS: REVENGE OF THE FALLEN                      Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie
Ragazzi, Conductor Edoardo Rosadini
June 21, Teatro Puccini, tel. 055597851,          n CINEMA                                         Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie                page                    TERMINATOR SALVATION
                                                  Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie
                                                                                                   page                                                     n DANCE
MONDAY 22                                         page                                             n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                                    Galà di danza MaggioDanza
                                                                                                                                                            Dance performance
                                                  n EXHIBITS                                       Nottarno - White Night in Oltrarno
                                                                                                                                                            July 1 at 9:15pm, Giardino di Boboli, Floren-
n CINEMA                                          Domenic Cretara. Arte senza confini
                                                                                                   June 27 to 28, Oltrarno Are, Florence, tel.
Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie
                                                  Solo Exhibition
                                                  Mon to Thurs from 9am to 1pm and 3 to 5pm,       n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                       n LECTURES & CONFERENCES
page                                              Fri from 9am to 1pm - CSU International Pro-                                                              Pietre dure in the Rosalinde and Arthur
                                                                                                   I maestri dei maestri. Concert by A. Luc-
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                gram, Via Leopardi 12, tel. 0552345700, Arti-
                                                  st’s reception is on July 3 at 6pm
                                                                                                   chesini, piano, G. Pretto, flute, F. Cusano,
                                                                                                                                                            Gilbert Galleries at the Victoria and Al-
                                                                                                                                                            bert Museum
                                                                                                   violin, A. Nannoni, cello
                                                  n MUSIC & CONCERTS
Claudio Baglioni in concert                                                                                                                                 Tessa Murdoch, lead curator of the Gilbert
                                                                                                   Summer in Fiesole 2009 - 62nd edition
June 22, Florence, Giardino di Boboli,                                                                                                                      Galleries which have just opened in the
tel. 0555978309,                                                              June 27, Basilica di S.Alessandro, tel.
                                                  Aida by Giuseppe Verdi (1813 – 1901)                                                                      Victoria and Albert Museum in London, will
O flos colende: Sacred Music in Florence -        June 25 at 9:15pm, Giardino di Boboli, Flo-                                                               consider Sir Arthur Gilbert’s (1913-2001) fa-
13th edition                                      rence, tel. 0555978309,     n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                                    scination with micromosaics which led him
June 22, Cattedrale di S. Maria del Fiore, tel.   Concert by Orchestra and Chorus of Mag-          Nature walks - six excursions in Florence’s              to collect pictures, gold boxes, and furniture
0552302885,             gio Musicale Fiorentino - Bruno Bartoletti       District 5 by Studio Biosphere                           decorated with hardstones, an ancient art
                                                  conductor, Samuel Ramey basso, music             June 27, Various places in Florence and pro-             revived under the Medici at the Opificio in
                                                                                                                                                            Florence in 1588.                      by Petrassi, Pizzetti, Boito                     vince, tel. 0552767045-6,
                                                                                                                                                            6pm, The British Institute of Florence, Library
                                                  72nd Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
                                                  June 25, Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fioren-                                                               and Cultural Centre, Lungarno Guicciardini
                                                  tino, tel. 0552779350,                           SUNDAY 28                                                9, tel. 055 26778270, free admission
                                                  Summer Jazz - concerts
                                                                                                   n CINEMA                                                 THURSDAY 2
                                                  Firenzestate 2009                                TRANSFORMERS: REVENGE OF THE FALLEN
       book it now and more at
                                                  June 25, Centro Culturale ex Gover, tel.         Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie                n CINEMA
                                                  055461428 - 0552767045,         page                                                     BRIDESHEAD REVISITED
                                                                                                                                                            Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, see movie
                                                                                   What’s On & Where to Go                                                                                            11                                                                                                                                                             Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                                        Events in FLORENCE JUN 19 to JUL 2
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                 on 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sun-            modern artists.                                   6 (Basilica and Museum of S. Lorenzo, monu-
Zubin Mehta, Messa da Requiem                      day of the month. – Ticket euro 9,00. Info           March 14 to July 12, Museo degli Argenti          mental area of the Biblioteca Medicea Lau-
di G. Verdi                                        0552388611                (Palazzo Pitti), opening hours: 8.15am –          renziana, Exhibition); euro 3 (monumental
July 2 at 9:15pm, Giardino di Boboli,              Franco Ionda. Ecce Homo XXI - exhibition             6.30pm, closed on the first and last Monday       area of the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana,
Florence                                           April 9 to June 20, Galleria del Palazzo Enrico      of the month, Ticket euro 10 combined with        Exhibition); tel. 055290184,
                                                   Coveri, tel. 055281044,                              Boboli and Bardini gardens, Silver, Porcelain
                                                                                                        and Costume museums, tel. 0552388709,
 ON GOING                                
                                                                                                                                                          THOMAS GILLESPIE: No Country for Old
                                                                                                                                                          Men - Totally painting
                                                   From Petra to Shawbak. Archaeology of a
                                                                                                        Pittore Imperiale. Pietro Benvenuti at the        Until July 31, Galleria Poggiali and Forconi Via
n DANCE                                            Frontier - exhibition
                                                   June 19 to Sept 20, Limonaia del Giardino di         Court of Napoleon and of the Lorraines            della Scala, 35/A; Opening hours: Tuesday –
Firefly. Anthony Heinle choreography,              Boboli, Palazzo Pitti, tel. 0552388736,              Pietro Benvenuti was appointed by Napole-         Saturday 10.30am-1pm and 3:30pm-7pm
new creation for MaggioDanza                                               on’s sister court painter, and from 1807 until    Sunday and Monday closed; tel. 055287748,
72nd Maggio Musicale Fiorentino                                                                         his death in 1844, he directed the Academy of
                                                   Galileo’s Universe. Images of the Cosmos             Florence. The exhibition shows his most im-
June 16 to 18, Teatro del Maggio Musicale                                                                                                                 Views of Florence between XVII and XX
                                                   from Antiquity to the Scientific Revolu-             portant works.
Fiorentino, tel. 0552779350,                                                                                                                              centuries from the collection of the Cassa
                                                   tion - exhibition                                    March 10 to June 21, Palatine Gallery and                                                                                                                                  di Risparmio di Firenze
                                                   The exhibition reconstructs the history of the
n EXHIBITS                                         Cosmos as designed and shown as it extended
                                                                                                        Gallery of Modern Art (Pitti Palace), opening
                                                                                                        hours: 8.15am – 6.50pm. Closed on Mon-
                                                                                                                                                          44 paintings among others by Reschi, Van Wit-
                                                                                                                                                          tel, Zocchi, Signorini, Canella.
Anatomize                                          the Scientific Revolution. It features scientific    days, tel. 055 2388614-6,
                                                   instruments, celestial atlases, drawings, pain-                                                        Until Sept 27, Villa Bardini, Costa S. Giorgio 2
An anology from body to Earth, from anatomy                                                                           – 6; Opening hours: 10am – 6pm from Wed.
to cartography - scuplture by Maya Lea Porter      tings and precious illuminated manuscripts
                                                   from the most prestigious museums and libra-         Playboy a Re-View                                 till Sun. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays;
Jan 7 to June 30, Museo di Storia Naturale,                                                             Until June 29, FOR Gallery, Via dei Fossi 45r     Tickets (exhibition + Capucci Museum + An-
Sez. Zoologia “La Specola”, opening hours:         ries around the world. A special section is reser-
                                                   ved for the original telescope of Galileo.           Portraits - photos by Paul Thorel                 nigloni Museum) euro 6; tel. 0552638599 –
9.30am – 6.30pm everyday. Closed on the                                                                                                                   0552346988,
first and last Monday of the month, tel.           March 13 to Aug 30, Palazzo Strozzi, tel.            June 18 to Oct 2, Istituto Francese di Firenze,
0552346760,                       0552645155, opening hours: daily 9am –               tel. 0552718820                                   Yves Netzhammer - site-specific instal-
                                                   8pm, Thursdays 9am – 11pm, Ticket euro 10.           Rafael Canogar. Documents and works -             lations April 1 to July 31,Cortile di Palazzo
Antonio Ligabue in Pontassieve - exhibi-                                                                                  Strozzi, tel. 0552645155
tion organized in collaboration with Cen-                                                               exhibition
tro Studi Antonio Ligabue di Parma                 Green Platform                                       May 14 to June 24, Archivio di Stato, tel.        n GUIDED TOURS
Until June 7, Sala delle Colonne, Town Hall of     April 24 to July 19, Centro di Cultura Con-          055263201,
                                                                                                                                                          Baluardo a San Giorgio
Pontassieve, tel. 0558360346 - 255,                temporanea Strozzina (CCCS), opening                 Rene&Radska. Dreams and Shadows -                 Last Sunday of every month, 9:30am to                       hours: 10am – 8pm. Thursday 10am – 11pm.             photografic exhibition                            12.30pm, tel. 0552616051, free admission
                                                   Closed on Mondays tel. 0552645155,                   June 18 to Aug 2, MNAF. Museo Naziona-
Art books edited by Bisonte at Biblioteca                                                                                      Guided visits by Associazione Akropolis
Nazionale di Firenze - exhibition                                                                       le Alinari della Fotografia, tel. 055216310,
                                                                                                                                                          June 3, 8, 10, 16, 18, 24, 29, Firenze, tel.
May 14 to June 30, Biblioteca Nazionale Cen-       Harlequins and Puppets. Giusti, his works  
trale, tel. 0552342585,           and days - documentary exhibition                    Retrospective on Pietro Benvenuti                 akropolis
                                                   June 10 to July 30, Biblioteca Nazionale Cen-        Until June 20, Galleria Palatina & Galleria
Art Exhibit Storie Minime, photographs             trale, tel. 055241151
by Luís Badona (a young Brazilian artist)                                                               d’Arte Moderna, tel. 055294883,
From 3 June 2009 to 26 June 2009, 9:00 -           Helene Brandt: Verdura Bionica             
18:00, J.J.J. Gallery - Eurocentres Firenze,
Palazzo Guadagni, S. Spirito 9 - 50125
                                                   An exhibition of organic - synthetic sculpture
                                                   June 15 to 30, Palazzo dei Cartelloni, Via S.
                                                                                                        Robert Mapplethorpe. La Perfezione nel-
                                                                                                        la Forma - photography exhibition
                                                                                                                                                            TF Real
Florence. Tel. 055 213030.
BALANCE Alessandro Moggi FOR Maggio
                                                   Antonino 11, Florence, www.saci-florence.
                                                   edu, opening hours: Mon to Fri from 9am to
                                                                                                        May 26 to Sept 27, Galleria dell’Accademia,
                                                                                                        tel. 0552388609,
Musicale Fiorentino
April 28 to May 30, from 11am to 8pm @ FOR
                                                   7pm, Sat from 1 to 7pm, free entrance
                                                   Instruments of Science. Ancient Florenti-
                                                                                                        Roberto Capucci: Apertura di un percorso
Gallery, Via dei Fossi 45r,                        ne collections - exhibition                          di studio - new fittings                                 Feb 11 to Sept 30, Istituto e Museo di Sto-          Until Dec 31, 2009, Museo della Fondazione
Bizhan Bassiri: la caduta delle Meteoriti
nelle ore vitali che anticipano la visione -
art installations
                                                   ria della Scienza, opening hours: Mon, Wed,
                                                   Thu, Fri 9.30am - 5pm. Tuesdays and Satur-
                                                   days 9.30am - 1pm, tel. 055265311,
                                                                                                        Roberto Cappucci, tel. 0552638599,
                                                                                                        Rodolfo Meli. Treasures from Populonia
                                                                                                                                                           Monday           July 6
May 21 to Aug 30, Various locations, Floren-
ce, tel. 0552776461,                               Inventories of abstraction by Yves Nets-
                                                                                                        with Timodemo - archaeological, contem-
                                                                                                        porary art exhibition
                                                                                                                                                                                   at 7pm                    hammer - a site-specific multimedia in-              March 25 to June 30, Museo Archeologico
Casa Guidi - visits                                April 24 to July 12, Centro di Cultura Contem-
                                                                                                        Nazionale, tel. 05523575
                                                                                                        Southern Trees
April to Nov, open Mon-Wed-Fri from 3pm to         poranea Strozzina (CCCS), tel. 0552776461,                                                                      (
6pm, Piazza San Felice 8, www.browningso-                      Until July 31, Museo della Specola, via Roma-, tel. 055284393                                                               na 17; Tickets euro 6; opening hours: 9.30am               in collaboration with
                                                   L’Erbario, tra museo e ricerca - Herbarium:          – 6.30pm everyday; closed on the first and
Crystals. The most dazzling exhibition in          museum and research                                  last Monday of the month; tel. 0552346760,
                                                                                                                                                                 The Florentine
the world                                          For the first time in Florence you can see seve-
April 1 to Oct 1, Sezione di Zoologia ‘La                                                                                          Presents the debate (in English):
                                                   ral examples of herbs and recipes from across
Specola’, opening hours: 9.30am – 6.30pm           Italy.                                               Splendour and Reason. Art in eighteenth-
everyday. Closed on the first and last Mon-
day of the monthTicket for the exhibition
                                                   Museo di Storia Naturale, Sezione di Zoolo-
                                                   gia La Specola Via Romana, 17, open daily
                                                                                                        century Florence - exhibition
                                                                                                        May 30 to Sept 30, Galleria degli Uffizi, tel.           Mediating
or the museum only euro 6,00; combined
ticket museum+exhibition euro 10,00. Info
                                                   from 9:30am to 2pm,s Sat from 9:30am to
                                                   5:30pm, closed first and last Monday of the
                                                                                                        The Fine Art of Christina Grace Mastran-
Drawings from the Louvre Museum. The
                                                   month, tel. 0552288251, tiket price: full euro
                                                   ; reduced euro 3,
                                                                                                        gelo A show of over 40 paintings and dra-
                                                                                                        wings done by the artist in Florence while               Exchange
Italian Renaissance in the Rothschild              Living Marbles. Gian Lorenzo Bernini and             studying at the Angel Academy of Art. On ope-
                                                                                                        ning night there will be an aperativo, a DJ set
                                                                                                                                                            Facing issues of adaptation and
collection of the Louvre Museum - exhi-            the birth of the Baroque portrait - exhibi-
bition                                             tion                                                 and lots of artists.                               integration in the ‘working world’
May 26 to Sept 14, Casa Buonarroti, tel.           April 3 to July 12, Museo Nazionale del Bar-         June 6 to 27, Sei Divino Wine Bar, Borgo               of Florence and Tuscany
055241752                                          gello, opening hours: 8:15am to 5pm, clo-            Ognissanti 42r; Opening Reception on June
Eliseo Mattiacci. Opera site specific, scul-       sed on the second and last Monday of the             6 from 6.30pm-11.30pm; free admission,
ture e disegni - exhibition                        month, tel. 0552388606,
                                                                                                                                                             Together Florence Inn
May 8 to July 31, Galleria Il Ponte Firenze,
tel. 055240617                                                                                          The Liturgical Treasure of the Santa Maria               Sala riunioni
                                                   Louise Nevelson. 60 collage artworks
Ferdinando I de’ Medici Maiestate Tan-             May 8 to July 25, Galleria Il Ponte Firenze, tel.    Nuova hospital in Florence                               via de Gasperi 6
tum                                                055240617,                   Until June 28, Archivio Storico del Comu-               Bagno a Ripoli (FI)
Grand Duke Ferdinando I (1549 – 1609) will                                                              ne, via dell’Oriuolo 33-35, opening hours:
                                                   Marco Lodovichi - painting exhibition                Fri., Sat., Sun. 11am – 2pm/3pm – 6pm; free
be commemorated in the fourth centennial of        June 27 to July 3, Sala A.N.R.A.C., Centro           entrance; tel. 0552616527 – 0552285567,
his death with this exhibition, which focuses
on two emblematic events: his wedding with
                                                   Coop Le Piagge, tel. 0552767020,
                                                                                                                                   10 €
Christina of Lorraine and the precious altar-ci-                                                        The shape of the book: from roll to the co-               for wine tasting
                                                   Memories of Antiquity in twentieth-cen-
borium for the family mausoleum, the Princes’
                                                   tury art - exhibition
                                                                                                        dex (3rd cent. BC – 19th cent. AD)                       and buffet-dinner
Chapel, chosen as the exhibition venue.                                                                 Until June 30 and from 6 Sept to Jan 6, 2010
May 2 to Nov 1, Cappelle Medicee – Cappella        More than 130 works on show among pain-              Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, piazza San
dei Principi, via Madonna degli Aldobrandi-        tings and sculptures that have passed through        Lorenzo 9; opening hours: Sun. – Fri. 9.30am        RSVP –
ni, opening hours: 8.15am – 4.50pm. closed         the centuries and can be compared to today’s         – 1.30pm. Closed on Saturdays; Tickets: euro
12                                                                                 What’s On & Where to Go
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                                                       

     Events in FLORENCE JUN 19 to JUL 2
Planetarium: meetings with the public
All year (except July and Aug), Sundays
                                                     n PARKS                                              Santa Maria del Fiore
                                                                                                                                                                OUT OF TOWN
                                                     Boboli Gardens                                       Mass in English on Saturdays at 5pm
at 3.30pm and 5pm, Planetarium, tel.
0552343723,                        Nov to Feb, from 8:15am to 4:30pm (5:30pm            Piazza del Duomo, tel. 055294514
                                                                                                                                                                n DANCE
n NIGHTLIFE                                          during March), from April to Oct, from
                                                     8.15am to 6:30pm, Piazza Pitti, ticket: €8, tel.
                                                                                                          Santissima Annunziata
                                                                                                          Mass in English on Sundays 5pm
                                                                                                                                                                Mugello Dance Experience
                                                                                                                                                                June 26 to 28, Piazza Ettore Alpi, Palazzuo-
La Loggia del Pesce                                  0552651838                                           Via Cesare Battisti 6, tel. 055266181
                                                                                                                                                                lo Sul Senio, tel. 055289276 - 0558046125,
From May 12, Piazza Ciompi                           Villa Peyron                                         Shir Hadash                                 
Las Palmas
Aperitifs, music, shows, dinner, and much
                                                     Via Vincigliata 2, Fiesole, tel. 055454791
                                                     Beato Angelico: Concerts on Monday
                                                                                                          Jewish reform/progressive congregation
                                                                                                          tel. 3486913059 - 3489362564                          n EXHIBITS
more                                                 June 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, Sala Chiostrini (Via della    St. James American Church (Episcopalian)              Indro Montanelli. His life, his works, his
May 14 to Sept 13, Piazza ghiberti Sant’Am-          Dogana 3/rosso prima traversa dietro Piazza          Sunday: Smaller service at 9am - Eucharistic          places - photographic, bibliographic and
brogio,                      San Marco), tel. 0552679079 - 3398658376,            service with sermon and music at 11am                 documentary exhibition
Parterre Firenze 2009                                              Via B. Rucellai 9, tel. 055294417; Please check       April 22 to Sept 13, Museo di Fucecchio and
                                                                                                                                                                Fondaz. Montanelli Bassi, FUCECCHIO, tel.
Weeklong programme: Monday 7:30pm to
10pm. Parterre is dedicated to children and
                                                     n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                       for any alterations to times
                                                                                                          and dates.                                            057122627,
youth with an evening DJ sets: Tuesday is Jazz       Firenze Moms 4 Moms Network                                                                                Joconde. From the Monna Lisa to the na-
                                                                                                          St. Mark’s Church of England
Live / Wednesday Good Vibration night / Thur-        (in English) Various events including Play-                                                                ked Gioconda - exhibition on the origins,
                                                                                                          Spoken mass: Sun 9am, Tues/Thurs 9.30am,
sday is litterature night, held in conjunction       groups, Mom’s Night Out, Couples’ Night Out                                                                the success and the mysteries behind Le-
                                                                                                          Wed 10am, Fri 12.30am, Sunday 10.30am sung
with Giunti al punto / Friday is Live Music / Sa-    and much more                                                                                              onardo’s Gioconda
turday is video / Sunday features a video and        For English Speaking Moms in Florence                                                                      June 14 to Sept 30, Museo Ideale Leonardo
                                                                                                          Via Maggio 16, tel. 055294764; Please check
DJ set.                                              and surrounding areas, www.firenzemom-                                                                     Da Vinci, tel. 0571568012 - 057156614,
                                                                                                 for any alterations to
Untill Sept 13, Parterre, h 19.30 to 01,30 info, infotiscali@firenzemom-                                                              
                                                                                                          times and dates.                     , tel. 3335728945
                                                                                                                                                                Loris Cecchini: dotsandloops
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                                Vincigliata Adventure Park
                                                     Tree Paths and Soft-Air: Challenge yourself in       CHILDREN                                              April 5 to Aug 8, Centro per l’Arte Contempo-
                                                                                                                                                                ranea Luigi Pecci, v.le della Repubblica 277,
69th Pitti Immagine Bimbo
June 25 to 27, Fortezza da Basso, tel.
                                                     the canopies! Fighting fatique and fear in an
                                                     environment of utter security far from the ur-       n WORKSHOPS                                           Prato, tel. 05745317,
05549721,                                                                                                                                  Massimo Listri. Biblioteche
                                                     ban caos! Four different paths from beginners        Bottega dei Ragazzi: activities and wor-
                                                                                                                                                                In cooperation with FOR (Firenze)
76th Pitti Immagine Uomo                             to advanced. New Soft-air course.                    kshops in English
                                                                                                                                                                Until August 8, Centro per l’Arte Contempo-
June 16 to 19, Fortezza da Basso, tel.               Parco Avventura, Via di Vincigliata, Fiesole,        June 27 to 28, Istituto degli Innocenti, tel.
                                                                                                                                                                ranea Luigi Pecci, v.le della Repubblica 277,
05549721,             , tel. 0553984036.              0552478386,
                                                                                                                                                                Prato, tel. 05745317,
Ciompi Antique Fair                                  n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)        Hands up! Hands as symbols and the im-
                                                                                                                                                                The Spaces In Between - work by Susi
Every week day and the last Sunday of every                                                               portance of gestures in art
                                                     Summer in Fiesole 2009 - ballet, theatre,                                                                  Bellamy Until Oct 31, Castello di gab-
month. Piazza de’ Ciompi, tel. 0553283550                                                                 Bottega dei Ragazzi - English Language Wor-
                                                     shows, concerts                                                                                            biano, Via di Gabbiano 22, Mercatale
Festival Oltrarno Atelier - 4th edition                                                                   kshops for Kids
                                                     June 19 to July 20, Fiesole Roman Theatre,                                                                 Val di Pesa (Florence), tel. 055821053,
June 17 to 19, Cango, Cantieri Goldonetta,                                                                June 27, Istituto degli Innocenti, www.labot-
                                                     tel. 0555961293 - 0553860130,                                                                    
                                                                                                 - See feature article in TF n.
Firenze and various locations in Oltrarno,
tel. 0552280525
                                                                                                          98 for details.                                       n GUIDED TOURS
Porcellino Market
                                                     n WORKSHOPS                                          Imagining the Cosmos: seeking answers                 Guided Walking Tours
Florentine arts and crafts with straw, handma-       Planetarium - workshops for schools                  in the stars                                          April 1 to Oct 31, Calenzano area, tel.
de embroidery, leather, woodwork and flowers         All year (except July and Aug), Mon to Fri,          English language workshops for kids                   0558833255 - 0558833237,
Every day, all day, Logge del Porcellino             9.30am - 1.30am - 2pm - 3.30pm, Planeta-             Saturdays at 11am until August 30. Children’s
                                                     rium, tel. 0552343723,             workshops in English, Palazzo Strozzi, Re-            The Impruneta Terracotta. Masters of the
San Lorenzo Market                                                                                        commended for children aged 7 to 12. Pro-
Florentine arts and crafts, handmade embroi-                                                                                                                    Renaissance and today’s kilns
                                                                                                          grams are free with paid admission. Reser-
dery, paper, leather and much more                   UP COMING                                            vations are strongly recommended, tel. 055
                                                                                                                                                                April 1 to Oct 31, Calenzano area, tel.
                                                                                                                                                                0558833255 - 0558833237,
Every day, all day, streets around Basilica San
Lorenzo                                              n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                                2469600,           
                                                                                                          Stories in the Stars: tales of the cosmos
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                   Independence Day                                     through time
                                                                                                                                                                Weekend guided tours in the Nature Re-
                                                                                                                                                                serve of Fucecchio marsh
                                                     July 4, Parco di Villa Demidoff, Pratolino,          English language workshops for kids
Civil and religious architecture: villas, pa-                                                                                                                   Until June 28, Nature Reserve of Fucecchio
                                                     from 5pm to 11:30pm                                  Saturdays at 11am until August 30. Chil-
laces and churches in Florence’s District                                                                                                                       Marsh and other places: Nature Reserve of
5 the Florentine territory’ - cultural mee-          Mediating Cultural Exchange                          dren’s workshops in English, Palazzo Strozzi,         Sibolla Lake; Reserve of Montefalcone; Colle
tings                                                FlorenceIN with The Florentine Presents the          Recommended for children aged 7 to 12.                di Monsummano and other areas of Montal-
June 5, 12, 15, 18, 23, 25, 30, various locations,   debate (in English) Facing issues of adapta-         Programs are free with paid admission. Re-            bano, tel. 057384540, email: fucecchio@zo-
Florence, tel. 055461428,           tion and integration in the ‘working world’ of       servations are strongly recommended, tel.   , www.zoneumidetoscane.
                                                     Florence and Tuscany                                 0552469600,                  it/eventi/padeventi.html
Concert Season 2009 - Careggi in music
                                                     July 6,Together Florence Inn, Sala riunioni,
Jan 4 to June 28, Sundays at 10.30am, Careggi,
Auditorium Clinica Medica, tel. 3407164029 -
                                                     via de Gasperi 6, Bagno a Ripoli,
                                                                                                          The sky and the planets - tales and wor-
                                                                                                          kshops for children
                                                                                                                                                                n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
                                           , price: 10 € for wine          June 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, Ludoteca La Mongolfie-              Week-end of JUNE 20-21
                                                     tasting and buffet-dinner; RSVP required:            ra, tel. 0552207455
Concerts of the Fiorentine Chamber Or-                                                                                          3rd Festival in the Poggio Farmyard
chestra - 29th concert season
                                                     On The Road Festival 2009                            n GUIDED TOURS                                        June 19, 20, 21, Ortimino, Montespertoli, tel.
June 21 to 22, Chiesa di Orsanmichele, tel.                                                                                                                     0571609412,
                                                     A competition that for 21 years has gathered         A Night at the Museum - animation, ga-
                                                     in Pelago the best street artists in Italy: mimes,   mes, readings for children from 7 to 12
Estate a San Salvi 2009 - music, meetings,           jugglers, musicians...                               years - Familiarizzare il Museo                       Attuttabirra Live 2009.
exhibitions, theatre shows, video                    July 3 to 5, Pelago,          June 25, Sezione di Zoologia La Specola and           Beer and Music Festival
                                                                                                                                                                June 19 to 28, historical centre, Gambassi
June 15 to July 10, San Salvi città aperta, Chil-
le De La Baldanza, tel. 0556236195, www.             n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)        other places like the Sezione di Geologia and
                                                                                                          Paleontologia, tel. 0552346760,                       Terme, tel. 0571639192,                                            Macbeth                                                                
Il Riformatore del Mondo
By Thomas Bernhard with Sandro Lombardi,
                                                     July 8 to 12, The Bargello National Museum,
                                                     Via del Proconsolo 4, info and tickets at            n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)         Bargino Festival
                                                                                                                                                                June 11 to 21, Bargino public gardens,
Marion D’Amburgo directed by Giovanni Scan-                            Teatrino del Gallo - puppet theatre Pupi              tel. 0558256259,
della. June 3 to 21, Cortile del Museo Nazio-                                                             Di Stac, cinema workshop, concerts, exhi-   
                                                                                                          bition, conferences, meetings and talk
nale del Bargello, tel. 0552264347,
                                                      RELIGIOUS SERVICES                                  shows                                                 Bargino Festival
                                                                                                          All year with monthly planning, Limonaia              June 11 to 21, Bargino public gardens, tel.
Musica in Maschera. Tour, Gala Dinner and            Florence Gospel Fellowship (Evangelical)             del giardino della Libreria Libri Liberi, Via San     0558256259, www.comune.san-casciano-
concert - a special opportunity to explore           Sunday Service at 6.30 pm (Evangelical)              Gallo 25r, Florence, tel. 3386024335,       
Italy in three different ways                        Via de’ Benci 9, tel. 3351505784, www.flo-                                Bread Food Festival
June 4, 11, 18, 26, Palazzo Gaddi Arrighetti,                                                                       June 21, Borgo San Lorenzo, tel. 05584966229,
tel. 3283562380,                                                                  Teatro Ragazzi - directed by Saverio Con-
                                                     Jewish Synagogue                                     tarini                                      
Opera Festival 2009                                  Shabos: 8:45am                                       June 4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, Teatro 13,   Bruschetta Food Festival
June 15 to Aug 1, see complete programme             Via Farini 4, tel. 055245252                         tel. 0552767828,                     June 20 to 28, Fratellanza Popolare di San
of the events at                                                                                                                           Donnino, Campi Bisenzio, tel. 055899211,
                                                     San Miniato al Monte
Organ and Instrumental Concerts                      Mass at 12pm (with Italian Gregorian chants)                                                     
All year, Mon to Sun at 9:15pm, Sat at 6pm,          Via delle Porte Sante, tel. 0552342731
Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Ricci, via del Corso,
tel. 055289367, tickets: €11
                                                                                          Life in Italy                                                                                            13                                                                                                                                                            Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                                    Events in FLORENCE JUN 19 to JUL 2
Cooks & butchers - Food and Wine Festival
June 21, Piazza Matteotti, Greve in Chianti,
                                                   Tha Days of Water - walking tour, meeting,
                                                   photographic exhibition
                                                                                                     Walking tours in the Chianti valley - pro-
                                                                                                     gramme 2009
                                                                                                                                                          n MUSIC & CONCERTS
tel. 0558545271,                                   June 27 to 28, Crespino del Lamone, Marradi,      June 28, Greve in Chianti area, tel.                 Il Flauto magico - Die Zauberflote di W. A.                  tel. 055804714 - 055804726                        0558545271,                                          Mozart
Eccole di nuovo - Vintage cars and motor-                                                                      June 27 at 9pm, Abbazia di San Galgano,
                                                   The Mountains Festival
cycles meet                                                                                                                                               Chiusdino, Siena, tel. 0555978309,
                                                   June 28, Comunello di Casale, San Lorenzo,
June 21, Piazza della Repubblica, San Cacsia-      tel. 0558373826,         IN TUSCANY                                           Metarock 2009
no Val di Pesa, tel. 0558229558, www.comu-         Threshing Festival - Old-fashioned count-                  ry life Festival                                  n EXHIBITS                                           The Quality POPular Festival
Fair of crafts, antiques and second-hand                                                                                                                  June 24 to 28, Campo Abetone e al Giardino
                                                   June 28, Piazza della Repubblica, San Cascia-     Pieter de Witte - Pietro Candido a Volterra
goods June 21, Via D.Alighieri and Piazza                                                                                                                 Scotto, Pisa,
                                                   no Val di Pesa, tel. 0558229558, www.comu-        Until nov 8, Palazzo dei Priori a Volterra (Pisa),
Buonamici, Dicomano, tel. 0558385407,                                       Paolo Poli and Le Fiabe Musicali                                                                                                                                 June 30 at 9pm, Abbazia di San Galgano,
                                                   Tortello (filled pasta) Festival                  SIGNORI DI MAREMMA èlites etrusche
International Ceramics Fair                                                                                                                               Chiusdino, Siena, tel. 0555978309,
                                                   June 24 to 28, Grezzano, Borgo San Lorenzo,       fra Populonia e Vulci - exhibition on Etru-
June 20 to 28, Montelupo Fiorentino,                                                                                                            
                                                   tel. 0558456230,                                  scans in the Maremma
tel. 0571518993,                                         June 13 to Oct 31, Grosseto, Museo Archeo-           n WINE              Traditional River Boats Competition               logico e d’Arte della Maremma                        Anteprima Vini 2009
June Fair                                          June 28, Main canal of the Fucecchio Marsh,       A new visual world: Origine, Balla, Kan-             May 30 and 31, Real Collegio, Piazza del Col-
June 22, Reggello, tel. 0558669232,                Massarella, tel. 0571298674,                      dinsky showcased at the new modern and               legio, Lucca Degustazione vini in commer-                                           contemporary art musuem in Lucca                     cio, Sunday from 10am to 6pm, tickets: 15
Minestra di pane (bread and vegetable              Tuscan handcrafts and traditional pro-            Until Aug 23, Lu.C.C.A. Via della Fratta, 36,        euro,
soup) Food Festival                                ducts Market                                      Lucca, tel. O583571712,
June 20 to 21, Vitolini, Vinci, tel. 0571568012,   June 30, Montaione, tel. 0571699254,              
Montaione fuori di sé - a meeting of diffe-        n MUSIC & CONCERTS
rent cultures
Multiethnic Festival
                                                   June 27, Panzano in Chianti, tel. 0558545271,
June 23, Piazza della Repubblica, Montaione,
tel. 0571699267,                         Choral Singing Review
                                                   June 21, historical centre, Impruneta, tel.
Porcino Mushroom Festival in Cascia
                                                   0552036627 - 0552313729,
June 19 to 28, Cascia Reggello, tel.
                                                   Etnica 2009. Buskers in the village
San Casciano Sempre aperta - shows in
                                                   June 18 to 21, Piazza Giotto, Vicchio, tel.
the centre and open shops
June 4, 11, 18, 25, historical centre of San Ca-
sciano Val di Pesa, tel. 0558256385,               European Music Festival. Young musicians          playing in various places in Scandicci

                                                                                                       STUDENT DISCOUNTS
                                                   Cityvibe- City Vibration
Snail Food Festival
                                                   June 21, various places in Scandicci, tel.
June 19 to July 5, Spicchio, Sovigliana, Vinci,
tel. 0571568012,
                                                   Fabrizio Bosso & Javier Girotto Latin
Volontariando - rfood, music and shows
                                                   Mood “Sol”
June 11 to 28, Circolo Arci La Fogliaia, tel.
                                                   June 22 at 9:30pm, Castello dell’Imperatore,
                                                   Prato, free entrance
     Week-end of JUNE 27-28                        La Vuelta - Music Festival
27th Ficattola Food Festival                       June 17 to 20, Parco il Poggione, San Cascia-
June 27, 28, Fornacette, Montespertoli,            no Val di Pesa, tel. 0558256259 - 0558256385,
tel. 0571600220,                                              Le Pietre risonanti. A music walk with the
Antique and Handcrafts Market                      musicians from the Fiesole Music School
June 25, Piazza Boccaccio and Via 2 giugno,        June 28, Montececeri Park, Fiesole, tel.
Certaldo, tel. 0571661276,                         0555978548,                          Marea Festival. Concerts, theatre, cinema,
Antique and Second-hand goods Market               exhibitions, meetings, sport
June 28, at the lake of Londa, tel. 0558352535,    June 25 to July 5, Buca del Palio Fucecchio,                             tel. 0571268508,                                                            Does your business
Antique Furniture Market                           Music Festival                                                                                    offer discounts, happy
June 28, Scandicci, tel. 0557591374,               June 24, Villa La Borraccia and other places:                         Badia Fiesolana, tel. 0555978527,                                                                 hours, promotions to
Corso della Nave - historical folk comme-
moration of Rufina in ancient times                n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                                                                             students?
June 25 to 28, historical centre, Rufina, tel.
                                                   1st SARA Racing Weekend at the Mugello
Little Market Fair                                 June 19, 20, 21, Mugello motor racing circuit,                                                    Let us know your
June 28, San Donato in Poggio, Tavarnelle Val      tel. 0558499111,
di Pesa, tel. 0558072338,
                                                   20th National Carts Race of Castelnuovo
                                                                                                                                                     contact information
                                                   d’Elsa                                                                                            and discount details
Menar mascelle all’or di cena. Dinner in a         June 28, Circolo Arci di Castelnuovo d’Elsa,
Renaissance-style                                  Castelfiorentino, tel. 3207107485,
June 26, Piazza del Castello, Vinci,
                                                                                                                                                     and we’ll publish
tel. 057156332,                                                                                                               them in our special
                                                   6th Olympic Triathlon
Organic Products Market Il Pagliaio                June 27 to 28, Bilancino Lake, Events Area,
June 28, Piazza G.Matteotti, Greve in Chianti,     tel. 0558420106,                                                          Student Issue on
tel. 0558545271,
                                                   Isabella de’ Medici Cup - Tuscan Flagwa-                                                          September 24.
                                                   ving Competition
Procession of Madonna with traditional             June 21, historical centre Cerreto Guidi, tel.
river boats                                        0571906220,
June 27, Main canal of the Fucecchio Marsh,                                                                    e-mail:
Massarella, tel. 0571298674,
                                                   Italian Motorbike Championship - Classes
                                                   125SP 3rd Round Premier Nat. Cup 2009
St. Peter and St. Paul’s Feast                     June 26, 27, 28, Mugello motor racing circuit,
June 29, New area for public parties in San
                                                                                                                                                     by September 14.
                                                   tel. 0558499111,
Piero a Sieve, tel. 0558487536,
14                                                                                Life in Italy
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                                                   

                                                                                                         Through ‘Italian Sketches’, readers will enjoy a brief ‘meeting’ with some

   Italian SKETCHES                                                                                      of the men and women from all walks of life who have changed the face of Italy.

                                                                                                                                                                          A leather
                                                                                                                                                                              by Deirdre Pirro

      amily, fame, feuding, passion, litiga-   when he returned to Italy. In 1920, aged     origins. In fact, the pieces that estab-                        outside his office in Milan in 1995. His
      tion and homicide. All the ingredi-      39, he moved back to Florence and, in        lished the reputation of the brand were                         ex-wife, Patrizia Reggiani, dubbed the
      ents of a successful Hollywood soa-      1923, opened both a luggage and eques-       a bag with his signature bamboo handle,                         ‘Black Widow’ by the Italian press, was
pie like are, instead, the backdrop to the     trian shop in via della Vigna Nuova and      created in 1947; his men’s moccasins of                         sentenced to 29 years in prison for com-
story of one of Italy’s best known luxury      a small workshop where he employed           1952–1953, featuring a horse’s bit (today                       missioning his murder. The couple’s two
label clans: the Gucci family.                 the finest craftsmen to work for him. By      on display at the Museum of Modern                              daughters, however, still believe in their
   The patriarch of this dynasty was           1937, he had added handbags to his line      Art in New York); and the Flora scarf,                          mother’s innocence.
Guccio Gucci. A native of Florence,            and relocated to a bigger shop on Lun-       created in 1967 by his son, Rodolfo, for                            Between 1989 and 1994, an Ameri-
Guccio was born into a modest family           garno Guicciardini. In 1938, he opened       Grace Kelly. After the war, as Guccio’s                         can, former president of the New York
on March 28, 1881. After his father’s          his first shop in a chic part of Rome.        clients grew in prosperity and sophistica-                      Bergdorf Goodman department store,
hat business went bankrupt, Guccio left            When traditional raw materials like      tion so did his business.                                       Dawn Mello, became Gucci’s new crea-
Florence, first for Paris and then Lon-         leather were scarce during the period of         Apart from Rodolfo, Guccio Gucci                            tive director. She worked hard to rebuild
don, where he worked at the elegant            fascism and World War II, Guccio crea-       and his seamstress wife, Aida Calvelli,                         Gucci’s reputation by revisiting and
Savoy Hotel, the place where royalty           tively used materials like hemp, linen       had three other sons—Vasco, Aldo, and                           revamping its past triumphs. But, it was
and the wealthy liked to stay. Observ-         and jute to make his goods and acces-        Ugo—who all eventually played an active                         not until another two Americans—top
ing their refined baggage, he decided           sorised them with the horse’s bit and        role in the company. Before World War II,                       manager, Domenico De Sole, who previ-
to create his own line of leather goods        stirrups that symbolised the company’s       Rodolfo became a movie actor (as Mau-                           ously managed Gucci America, and the
                                                                                            rizio D’Ancora) and married a German                            groundbreaking designer, Tom Ford—
                                                                                            actress, Alessandra Leverkusen, known                           arrived at the helm of the company in
        In Piazza Pitti… the evening is magic                                               on the screen as Sandra Ravel. However,
                                                                                            by the time of Guccio Gucci’s death in
                                                                                                                                                            Italy that Gucci surged back from the
                                                                                                                                                            brink of bankruptcy to renewed profit-
                                                                                            Milan on January 2, 1953 Rodolfo had                            making and global recognition for its
               Enjoy the outdoor terrace                                                    returned to the business and, based in
                                                                                            Milan, went on to successfully manage its
                                                                                                                                                            edgy and aggressive image.
                                                                                                                                                                But, once again in 2004, stylistic direc-
                                                                                            Italian interests while Vasco supervised                        tion of the fashion house changed hands.
                                                                                            operations in Florence. In the mean-                            Three designers—Alessandra Facchinetti
                                                                                            time, Aldo moved to New York, where he                          and Scottish designer John Ray (both of
                                                                                            opened Gucci’s first boutique, pioneering                        whom had worked under Tom Ford) and
                                                                                            Italian design in the United States. He                         Frida Giannini—now shared this respon-
                                                                                            also led the company’s lucrative assault                        sibility. But with Ray’s resignation and
                                                                                            on new international markets in the Far                         Facchinetti’s (albeit brief) move to Valen-
                                                                                            East.                                                           tino as the great designer’s successor, Gian-
                                                                                                Lamentably, by the 1980s, the Gucci                         nini remained as the group’s creative direc-
                                                                                            family became almost as famous for its                          tor. In November 2006, she was named
                                                                                            infighting as for its stylish merchandise.                       one of the                      ’s 50 women
                                                                                            In 1980, one of Aldo’s sons left the group                      managers in the world ‘to watch’.
                                                                                            and attempted to launch a line of prod-                             Following a Herculean battle over
                                                                                            ucts under his own Gucci name. This                             control of the group during the De Sole-
                                                                                            provoked a series of lawsuits by other                          Ford interregnum, the Gucci group has,
                                                                                            family members that eventually blocked                          since 1999, been part of the influential
                                                                                            his plan—but not before Aldo Gucci had                          French holding Pinault Printemps Red-
                                                                                            been reported for tax fraud in the United                       out (PPR) and now has its headquarters
                                                                                            States. As a consequence, in January                            in Amsterdam. With its distinctive double
                                                                                            1986, Aldo pleaded guilty to evading                            G logo (in honour of its founder) stamped
                                                                                            more than $7 million in taxes and served                        on its merchandise, a status symbol of
                                                                                            a year in the Eglin Penitentiary in Florida,                    luxury, craftsmanship and glamour, the
                                                                                            nicknamed the ‘country club’.                                   house of Gucci continues to dress the
                                                                                                Prompted by these serious rifts and                         rich and famous. It is not only one of the
                                        Restaurant                                          by the commercial disarray in which it                          biggest-selling Italian brands in the world
                                                                                            found itself, Gucci became a public com-                        but also one of the most illegally copied.
                                     Caffè Pitti                                            pany in 1982. Maurizio Gucci, Rodolfo’s                         Yet, despite a credit crunch that has seen
                                   Piazza Pitti, 9 - Firenze                                son, was made chairman of the group in                          the profits of other important labels plum-
                                                                                            1989. More court cases and squabbling                           met, the Gucci group reported a 5 percent
                            Tel. 055 2399863 -                           among the kith and kin followed when                            sales increase to 855 million euro for the
                                                                                            Maurizio was accused by his cousins of                          first quarter of 2009.
                                                                                            forging his father’s signature on papers
      In addition to offering traditional Tuscan cuisine, Caffe’ Pitti                      transferring 50 percent of the com-
                                                                                            pany’s shares to him. With the business                           Deirdre Pirro is an international lawyer
     features an array of truffle-based fare. Experience the sensuous                       in dire economic and creative straits,                            who lives and works in Florence. Apart
                                                                                            in 1993, Maurizio Gucci resigned and                              from the law, her interests include
         aroma, texture and taste of these sumptuous delicacies.                            sold his interest to Investcorp, his Arab                         modern Italian history, the history of
                                                                                            corporate partner, effectively taking the                         gastronomy and travel. She can be
     Special 15% discount on dinner                                                         business out of family hands. In a tragic                         contacted at
         for The Florentine readers                Aperitif with dishes from the menu       epilogue, Maurizio Gucci was shot dead
                              *                       a new book by
                                                      Deirdre Pirro              italian
                                                      illustrations by
                                                      Leo Cardini
                                                                               the faces of modern Italy

      On sale NOW
 in Florence bookstores


                                      TF Real Social Network
JULY 04                  Independence Day                                JULY 06                  Mediating Cultural
                         from 5 to 11:30 pm                                                       Exchange       7 pm
                         Parco di Villa Demidoff, Pratolino              Toghether Florence Inn Via De Gasperi 6 Bagno a Ripoli
Come celebrate America’s Independence Day with a picnic in the park!     FlorenceIN ( and The Florentine present a debate
Hamburgers, hot dogs, watermelon, games, music and more are on tap for   (in English): “Mediating Cultural Exchange, facing issues of adaptation and
this traditional American event. Fun for the whole family!               integration in the ‘working world’ of Florence and Tuscany”.
                                                                         €. 10 for wine tasting and buffet-dinner – RSVP
16                                                                            Life in Italy
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                                     

        The FLorentine Press Books
                                                                                          Kids PAGE
                                        Deirdre Pirro leads the way through
                                        modern Italy’s trials and triumphs,
                                        showcasing the country’s ingenious                    Brunelleschi                                              This poem is

                                                                                              and his dome
                                        savior-faire and shouldering its                                                                                dedicated to my
                                        inherent social dilemmas. The icons                                                                             young Florentine friends
                                                                                                                                                        Choppy and Giovanni.
                                        of contemporary culture finally
                                        find a forum in Italian Sketches:
                                                                                              by Sabine Eiche
                                        the faces of modern Italy, a book
                                        that dares to investigate the whos
                                                                                                                                           H     oists were built and bricks were brought,
                                                                                                                                           Florentines rushed to the spot.
                                        and whys behind one of the world’s
                                                                                              Florentines had civic pride,
                                                                                                                                           Curious, they watched and cheered.
                                        most-loved countries, Italy.                                                                       Critics, too, were there and jeered.
                                                                                              Something that they didn’t hide.             Brunelleschi’s was a scheme
                                        [euro 12,00]                                          Building churches was the rage,              Which no man could ever dream.
                                                                                              Even if it took an age.                      Daringly, with special skill
                                                                                              Dignitaries riding through                   Workmen laid the bricks until
                                                                                              Noticed there was lots to do.                All eight sections were complete.
        In Italians Dance and I’m a
                                                                                              There’s Saint Mary of the Flower,            Wonderful! Oh, what a feat!
        Wallflower and in If They are                                                         Crouched below an ancient tower.             Brunelleschi felt relieved;
        Roses, Linda Falcone takes us                                                         Plans all done, walls all laid,              Critics, though, were rather peeved.
        on a leisurely twirl through the                                                      Large-scale models also made.                There’s a hole right at the top!
        Italian culture straight to the                                                       Sprawling nave, splendid choir,              Cried the critic Cucco Zop.
                                                                                              But it lacks that thing up higher!           Brunelleschi’s failed, I bet!
        heart of Italian expression with                                                      Builders never could decide                  When it rains we’ll all get wet.
        all its stinging wit and generous                                                     How to vault a space so wide.                Brunelleschi saw the light:
        humour.                                                                               Men had tried for years and years,           Cucco Zop was full of spite.
                                                                                              Always ending up in tears.                   Come with me, my learnèd friend,
                                                                                              So she stayed without a dome,                Come and see what I intend.
                                                                                              Like some ruin of ancient Rome.              Cucco Zop, though feeling leery

                                                                                              Time went on, and then there came
                                                                                                                                           Came with him up to his eyrie.
                                                                                                                                           Paper, paper everywhere,
                                            Full of pathos and surprising                     Someone who would soon earn fame:            Cucco Zop looked for a chair.
                                            insights, these colourful                         Brunelleschi, really smart,                  Brunelleschi sighed, Oh, dear,
                                                                                              Talented in every art.                       It’s a little messy here.
                                            stories of Italian language and
                                                                                              His good friend was Donatello,               To the window both men walked,
                                            lifestyle capture the essence                     Still quite young, but what a fellow!        Brunelleschi talked and talked.
                                            of the country’s multi-faceted                    He and Donatello went                        Pointing to the dome he said,
                                            character.                                        Down to Rome, and there they spent           All I did was use my head.
                                                                                              Months and months so they could see          In the rain and in the snow,
                                            [euro 15,00/12,00]                                Treasures from Antiquity.                    You’ll stay dry from tip to toe.
                                                                                              Donatello then went home,                    This is not the Pantheon,
                                                                                              Brunelleschi stayed in Rome.                 Where the wet is never gone.
                                                                                              Off he trekked through fields all muddy,       Underneath my splendid dome
                                                                                              Finding things he liked to study.            It’s as safe and snug as home.
                                                                                              Columns, plinths and arches, too—            That great hole right at the top
        Fall in love with Florence all over                                                   Everything he saw he drew.                   Doesn’t mean that I’m a flop.
        again with Jane Fortune’s unique                                                      Back to Florence much inspired,              Here’s the lantern I designed.
        book. To Florence, Con Amore:                                                         Brunelleschi never tired.                    It will surely ease your mind.
                                                                                              Architecture was his life                    It will hold the dome together,
        77 Ways to Love the City.                                                             (After all, he had no wife).                 Make it safe in any weather.

        [euro 19,50]                                                                                                                       Cucco Zop smirked with relief,
                                                                                                 oon the Florentines declared,             I was right, you’re just a thief!
                                                                                              Everyone should get prepared.                Brunelleschi shouted, WHAT?
                                                                                              Seeking talent was their mission.            Are you crazy, or some NUT?
                                                                                              There would be a competition.                Cucco Zop, who picked his nose,
                                                                                              Vault Saint Mary of the Flower,              Shouted, IT’S ANTONIO’S!
                                                                                              Make her rise above the tower.               Brunelleschi, that’s real low,
                                       If it’s Leonardo lore you’re after,                    Builders, goldsmiths, sculptors, too,        Stealing from Antonio!
                                       then look no farther than Rab                          Showed the judges what they’d do.            Brunelleschi swung his fist.
                                                                                              Brunelleschi won the prize                   By good fortune he just missed.
                                       Hatfield’s latest publication,                         With a trick that caught their eyes.         Quick they climbed down to the ground,
                                       Finding Leonardo: The Case                             Asked to make an egg stand up                Growling like a fox and hound.

                                       for Uncovering the ‘Battle of                          On its own without a cup,
                                       Anghiari’.                                             Tap one end was all he did,                       runelleschi in the end,
                                                                                              And the egg stood as was bid.                With his temper on the mend,
                                       [euro 20,00]                                           Brunelleschi, what a man!                    Showed the critic Cucco Zop
                                                                                              He was tops, no also-ran.                    That the project for the top
                                                                                              Losers wept and went back home,              Really was his own invention,
                                                                                              Brunelleschi planned the dome.               Stolen with the worst intention
                    The Books are available in Florence at the
                                                                                              Thought a lot and took his pen,              By his helper, fiercely jealous.
                    following stores: Art&libri, BM Bookshop,                                 Wrote out orders for his men.                I believe one day he’ll tell us,
                    Edison Bookstore, Feltrinelli International,                              Bring me bricks and bring me mortar.         But for now let matters rest.
                                                                                              Give a big tip to the porter.                Just remember, I’m the best!
                    Giunti al Punto, I’ Libraio, Il Porcellino,
                    Mandragora Art Stores, Martelli, Paperback
                                                                                          Sabine Eiche, a Canadian writer and art historian who lived in Florence for 32 years, has
                    Exchange, Uffizi Art Bookshop.                                        published extensively on Italian Renaissance architecture, gardens and drawings. She is an
                                                                                          authority on the history and culture of the Duchy of Urbino and is preparing a book about the
                    For worldwide shipment orders:                                        local cuisine. She also writes children’s stories. Her most recent book is Presenting the Turkey:
                    send an email to                              The Fabulous Story of a Flamboyant and Flavourful Bird. (
                                                                                                Life in Italy                                                                                      17                                                                                                                                                          Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                                                               Culture & CUSTOMS
                                                            il fatto bello della settimana moments from everyday Italy

                                                   Claiming                                                                                          This country’s unification was not
                                                                                                                                                     wanted by the people. It was the
                                                                                                                                                     product of an intellectual move-

                                                   the continent
                                                                                                                                                     ment. What did the Florentines have
                                                                                                                                                     to do with a king from Lombardy?
                                                                                                                                                     Nothing. They united our republics
                                                                                                                                                     and forced this nationality on us.
                                                                                                                                                     But a united Europe was different—
                                                              by Linda Falcone                                                                       we needed it, and more importantly,
                                                                                                                                                     we             it.’
                                                                                                                                                          ‘Just don’t touch the food,’ Fed-

Y   ears ago, the Italian press published a controversial study that claimed one should enjoy ice cream only in wintertime, as
    June sorbets risked freezing summer-hot intestines. I remember that day vividly. It was soon after New Year’s, so I far from
minded the news. Europe had just become a Union and all was right in the world—until I walked into the ice-cream shop off
                                                                                                                                                     erico repeated.
                                                                                                                                                          ‘       . Leave that right where it
                                                                                                                                                     is,’ Martina nodded.
via Calzaiuoli and came back out again without a cone. The euro had suddenly taken effect and gelato prices were anything                                 Too soon, the dinner ‘crowd’ of
                                                                                                                                                     two foreign couples wandered in,
but frozen: the cost of two scoops had doubled overnight.                                                                                            feeling guilty for being hungry early.
                                                                                                                                                     Mamma-captain quickly called her
   Chilled-milk-and-sugar merchants confusion. Since then, we—the whole                                   than do those who win X’s on the
                                                                                                                                                     squad to take their spots. I, she said,
were not the only ones in Italy who of the population, I mean—have swal-                                  electoral ballot.
                                                                                                                                                     had time for dessert. The wait staff
welcomed the unified currency lowed the bitter pill and stopped cal-                                          Was anyone hopeful about the
                                                                                                                                                     knew nothing of the health risks of
with a slick dropping of digits. Ten culating what things would have cost                                 election’s results or were they less
                                                                                                                                                                             on a scorching
thousand lire shed three zeros and on our sweet, but obsolete old dime.                                   important than running out of fizzy
                                                                                                                                                     afternoon quite near the Solstice.
turned into 10 euro—twice its real        Nevertheless, the sore theme of                                 water on a weekend night? Or per-
                                                                                                                                                     Thank heavens for those who are
worth—thus, black cabbage became expenditure is by no means my forte,                                     haps ‘hope’ was much too strong a
                                                                                                                                                     truly informed.
a luxury item, much like salt-less and both you and I would do well                                       concept to pair with late-afternoon
bread and, well, everything else. No to be shocked that I’m even writing                                  pasta and politics?
one could afford pop-                               about it. But these days,                                ‘The thing is, the European Par-        Teacher by profession and writer by necessity,
corn at the movies, and a                           as the whole rounded                                  liament             Italians,’ Martina     Linda Falcone is celebrating her fifteenth year
trip to the grocery store     ‘Only Italians        world keeps tightening                                explained. ‘Only an Italian can bear       of Italian living. Author of Italians Dance and I’m
felt very much like com-      want to be            its belt and new Euro-                                standing between the French and            a Wallflower and If They Are Roses, she delights
                                                                                                                                                     in experimenting with both poetry and prose.
ing home with a week’s                              pean parliamentarians                                 the Germans. The Germans can’t
worth of overpriced ker-      something             have hobbled into their                               fathom being anything but them-            Only the grocery list should never be written.
nels. People purchased                                             can’t
                              other than who hot-spots, aI thoughthelp                                    selves and the French won’t admit
household appliances                                but spare             for                             there’s even anyone         themselves.
and then returned their       we are—and            what happens now that                                 Italy gives Europe elasticity. Only
unopened packages—a                                 Election Day has come                                 Italians want to be something other
practice previously un-       that is our           to take its banners away.                             than who we are—and              is our
heard of in Italy. ‘I was     only political           Last week, Martina—                                only political strength.’
thinking in lire when I                             my friend and a waitress                                 I smiled and Federico, the maî-
brought it,’ they’d say.      strength.’            at an outdoor restaurant                              tre d’ and wine-man agreed. ‘That’s
   The values of postage                            whose tables are danger-                              right. Italians are easy in Europe.
stamps were ‘unified’ to suit German ously in the way of whizzing traffic—                                  Admit to the superiority of our food
and French wages, and only the price invited me to eat with her at what                                   exports and avoid laws that ban egg
of coffee hovered close to its original she calls ‘the American hour’. The                                pasta and you’ll keep us happy as
cost. Salaries were the only thing in whole of the wait staff dines on                                    Easter Sunday.’
Italy immune to inflation: those were spaghetti at six, and her mother—                                       ‘Maybe,’ I said, ‘but Europe was
translated to the             with by- who looks like a cook and talks                                    hard won.’
the-bank accuracy. Rampant infla- like a captain—never minds stack-                                           ‘             in Italy is hard won,’
tion, I’ve been told, was primarily an ing an occasional plate on her pile                                he replied. ‘Still, like I say, we are
Italian epidemic and did not seem to for me. I love to go there. If you                                   a new nation. And we bridge the
spread its toxin to original member are ever wondering about the state                                    European divide.’
countries with the same infectious of the world, talk to the people                                          ‘Okay,’ I told them. ‘But I don’t
intensity. Europe was a union and who wait on it. The four servers                                        understand exactly why.’
Italian profiteers from the supply- passing out Martina’s menus know                                          ‘Because,’ Martina ventured,
line down simply took their cut of the more about people and politics                                     ‘we have yet to                Italians.

                                                                                                             FROM CALIFORNIA
                                         your in-progress dictionary of the florentine dialect               New book at Paperback Exchange
                                                                                by Francesco Stefanelli

   Diòspero: Persimmon. What the rest of Italy calls a ‘cachi’, Florentines call a ‘diòspero.’
   Guanciale: Bed pillow. Also the cheek of a pig, which is a local delicacy enjoyed
   with various sauces or sliced very thinly on bread.
   Sìstola: Garden hose.
   Example: Ecco...! Se’ ristaccata la sistola dalla cannella! (Oh great! The hose has
   come off the spigot again!)
   Pareva or pari pari: Being similar to someone or something.
   Example: Con quella cravatta pareva un ovo di Pasqua! (He looked like an Easter
   egg with that tie on!)
   Example: L’è pari pari i’ su babbo! (He looks exactly like his dad!)

   @          THIS COLUMN IS INTERACTIVE What are your favorite Florentinisms?
              Write to with your top picks, including definitions.
              Be a co-author!
                                                                                                             Fun book, in English, for young
                                                                                                            readers. Includes audio version.
18                                                                                        Life in Italy
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                                                   

  BOOK REVIEW                                                                                         EXPATS>inFlorence
                                                     TRUE LIFE                                                                                            different>Paths
                                                     DRAMA                                                                                                Rebecca
                                                     A mother’s story of
                                                     addiction and hope                                                                                   Milner
                                                     by Alexandra Lawrence                                                                                Bringing color,
                                                                                                                                                          patterns and
                                                     accuracy of Libby’s account is the result of
                                                     her faithful nightly journaling—and thus it                                                          laughter to Florence
                                                     captures the blame, deception, despera-
                                                     tion, isolation, fear, secrecy and chaos she
                                                     and the family felt. Because Jeff is clean                                                           by Melinda Gallo
                                                     today—after 15 years of heavy drug use
                                                     and countless rehabilitation treatments—       Florence is home to many expats: those who have longed to live here, those who have found love
                                                                                                    and moved here, and those who have come to Florence and felt immediately at home here. Many

          ntil I read Stay Close: A mother’s story   it is Libby’s hope that by sharing the fam-
          of her son’s addiction, the phrase         ily’s story, her family can heal and others    people arrive here at a point in their lives when they seek to redefine themselves: whether they
          ‘heroin user’ conjured scrawny             can hope.                                      were not completely happy, were searching for something new, or were looking for love, it seems
                                                         Some readers will question Libby’s reac-   that those who come to Florence are reborn. Florence will always be the ‘cradle of the Renais-
addicts shooting up in back alleys and
                                                     tions and choices: Why didn’t she see the      sance’ for the art world, but it also welcomes people of all walks of life who are seeking to follow
cheap motel rooms; malnourished models
                                                                                                    their hearts.
getting their buzz in posh clubs. This book          problem early on? Why did she continue to
shattered my naïve image and showed me               believe him when he said he was finished

                                                                                                        t’s easy to understand why Rebecca Milner         sons, and she was among those let go. Look-
that a heroin user could just as likely be a         with drugs? How could she continue to
                                                                                                        is so happy: she has already made two of          ing for work again, Rebecca found a business
college-educated, upper-middle-class guy             trust him? I believe that she expects these        her dreams come true. The first was to live       card of an Italian lawyer whom had she met
from the suburbs and a ‘good’ family with a          questions, almost welcoming them, for          and work in Italy and the second was to have          by chance at a movie theatre; he had said at
mother with a PhD in education.                      they are the same questions she asked her-     her own business and work with her hands.             the time that he was looking for an assistant
   The book’s cover and frontispiece fea-            self for so many years. Perhaps what makes           When she was in her teens, she moved            to help with his English-speaking clients. She
tures photos typical of most American fam-           this story different from so many others       with her family to Naples, where her father           contacted him and was hired immediately.
ily’s albums: a precious little boy dressed          about addiction: she does not pretend to       was stationed on a naval base. Initially she          After working with him for a year and making
in 70s-style knee socks and a home-made              have the answers. In fact, the only answer     didn’t want to leave England, but once she            her own contacts, she decided to become a
Superman cape hugging a tire swing; an               she offers is one she got from an Italian      set foot in Italy she was smitten with the new        freelance translator.
infant in the arms of his young mother. The          man, the director of a drug rehabilitation     sights, sounds and smells around her. Two and             In the summer of 2008, she created Pari-
first line of the book, however, is ‘My son is       center near Florence.                          a half years later, they moved back to England,       passi <> to make
in jail.’                                                She had gone to the center in the hope     but Rebecca never forgot Italy. The memories          her second dream of working with her hands a
   What follows is the story of Libby                of enrolling Jeff in its intense treatment     of her time in Naples were so vivid that she          reality and no longer just a hobby. She designs
Cataldi, her sons Jeff and Jeremy, and how           community. In tears, feeling broken and        vowed to ‘live and work in Italy forever.’            patterns for wallpaper, textiles, clothing and
drug addiction settled into their upper-             desperate to find a way to help Jeff, she            After finishing her A levels, Rebecca stud-     furnishings; gets fabric printed and sews her
middle-class lives. It is the story of a family      had decided to give up and let him go,         ied at Central Saint Martins College of Art and       own handbags, scarves and other accessories.
and how they dealt with—and continue                 once and for all. The director urged her       Design, where she ignored her love of textiles            She maintains that Florence has assisted
to deal with—the addiction of their oldest           not to surrender but to stargli vicino, stay   and focused on another outlet of her crea-            her greatly in moving her creativity to the
son and big brother.                                 close to him. With that simple imperative,     tivity: graphic design and illustration. Upon         foreground, finding the city so beneficial
   We follow Jeff through high school,               Libby began her courageous climb out of        graduating, she was hired at a publishing             to her work: ‘There isn’t that sense of being
                                                     desperation to a place where she can now       company in London, working with textiles as           overwhelmed by so much information in
where he began experimenting with drugs
                                                     share her story without shame.                 a leisure activity. For 10 years, she put Italy out   the streets by advertisements and billboards.’
and alcohol and had his first scuffles with
                                                                                                    of her mind because she thought it might just         When walking around town, she feels more
the law. From a private school in northern                                                          be too difficult a dream to realize. It wasn’t un-    centered, able to think without distraction.
Maryland whose principal was his mother,               Stay Close: A mother’s story of              til she began travelling for pleasure that her            Rebecca introduced her first collection of
Libby, the book take us through his prep-              her son’s addiction                          desire to make her dream of living in Italy a         designs and accessories this year. Her work
pie Boston university days, his first job, his                                                      reality became too strong to avoid.                   is not only about beautiful colors and unique
                                                       St. Martin’s Press, 2009
numerous professional successes—and                                                                       In 2004, Rebecca decided on a whim to           patterns, but about adding joy to people’s lives.
his subsequent slide farther and farther               Euro 22,40                                   book a flight to Florence and stay one month          Her next dream is to bring color, patterns and
into addiction. Initially, his drug abuse                                                           to see what would happen. She chose Flor-             laughter to the world. And because she has al-
seems counterbalanced by his achieve-                  Libby Cataldi, who holds a doctorate in      ence because it has so much to offer: it’s walk-      ready realized two of her dreams, this third one
ments. However, as his life spirals out of             education and has been an educator all       able, the countryside is close by, it’s not too       will most likely come true as well.
control, the story becomes so gripping                 her life, was recently head of Maryland’s    far from the sea and it’s centrally located in
and so sordid that I found myself turning              Calverton School. She has two sons, Jeff     Italy. Rebecca contacted everyone she knew              Melinda Gallo, a writer and web devel-
the pages quicker and quicker to see what              and Jeremy Bratton, and divides her time     who had a link to Italy, enlisting them to help         oper, has been living in Florence for over
Jeff’s next move would be, to find out how             between Annapolis, Maryland and Flor-        her find work in Florence. One person told her          six years. In her blog, Living in Florence
Libby would make it through yet another                ence, Italy. See for    about a job opening with a publishing com-              (, she
dramatic episode. Most striking is the jux-            more information on her life, her work       pany, and after interviewing for the job, she           recounts her life in a city that she loves and
taposition of the chaos of Jeff’s life and             and Stay Close.                              was hired on the spot. After a 10-month stint           appreciates more every day.
Libby’s calm narration. The immediacy and                                                           at the job, there were layoffs for financial rea-
                                                                                    Life in Italy                                                                                   19                                                                                                                                            Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                                                                          exhaust fumes stain and blacken Flor-
                                                                                                                                          ence’s lovely old buildings and monu-

  On yer bike                                                                                                                             ments. If you need further convinc-
                                                                                                                                          ing, I’ll leave you with the words of a
                                                                                                                                          much more eminent geek than me:
                                                                                                                                          ‘I thought of it while riding my bike,’
   by Melissa Morozzo                                                                                                                     explained Albert Einstein about his
                                                                                             campaigns to support cyclists’ rights,       theory of relativity.
                                                                                             regularly organizing events to raise
                                                                                             awareness of cyclists’ needs, such
                                                                                             as Firenze all’Alba, an early morning          GREEN FEEDBACK
                                                                                             bike ride around Florence, when the            The Mugnone litter collection
                                                                                             roads are blissfully free of traffic, end-     organised by the Democrats
                                                                                             ing with a very civilised cappuccino           Abroad (now considering chang-
                                                                                             and brioche. It also promotes Critical         ing their name to River demo-
                                                                                             Mass Firenze, a pro-cycling/anti-car           cRats) was a huge success. Over 40
                                                                                             club that meets on the last Thursday           bags of trash were collected, the
                                                                                             of every month in Piazza Santissima            contents of which ranged from the
                                                                                                                                            obvious and seedy items like con-

    love my bicycle. I love it more than        ties through the +bici +baci (‘more          Annunziata for a mass pedalata
    I love tea, spaghetti with aglio, olio      bicycles, more kisses’) advertising          through town.                                  dom wrappers to a teddy bear that
    and peperoncino and waking up on            campaign. Nobody seems to be able                I’ve been trying to find out exactly       was leaning against the stones of
 a Sunday morning, thinking it’s Mon-           to explain the connection between            how much of a difference cycling               the bridge. A great time was had
 day for a second and then realising            cycling and kissing, but if it gets a        makes to the environment, in com-              by all. Look for more similar events
 that I can snuggle down for another            few people out of their cars then it’s a     parison to driving, and came up with           in the future!
 couple of hours. That’s a lot of love.         good thing. The council is also behind       some interesting information. Did you
 When I first moved to Italy, buying a          the Milleunabici scheme, brainchild of       know that 7 to12 bikes can fit into one        OTHER COOL GREEN STUFF
 bike was like buying freedom: it costs         the Associazione Città Ciclabile Onlus,      car-size parking space? Some experts           Check out I keep
 nearly nothing to run and will take me         a pro-bicycle organisation. Through          claim that cyclists are exposed to no          meeting enthusiastic ‘wwoofers’, so
 anywhere. I am still constantly amazed         Milleunabici, residents and tourists         more exhaust fumes and pollution               I think this site deserves a mention.
 that this strange contraption can con-         can rent bikes from various spots            than are people sitting inside their cars      Wwoof puts volunteers in touch
 vert the puny strength of my spindly           around town from €2 to €8 a day. A           (I’d love to know if this is true). On the     with an international network of
 legs into enough power to get me               monthly pass for residents costs €20.        other hand, someone has calculated             organic farms that offer board and
 across the city in 20 minutes.                     For a complete list of prices and        the amount of energy needed to pro-            meals in exchange for help on the
     One needn’t be an ecological               rental stations, see www.firenzecit-         duce the food that ‘the human engine’          farm. If you fancy learning about
 expert to realise that cycling is far bet- Another useful site for     requires to power a bike, compared             organic farming and don’t mind
 ter for the environment than is driv-          cyclists in Florence is www.florence-        to the energy needed to produce the            getting your hands dirty while on
 ing. It’s also healthier and a hell of a lot, with its useful infor-        gasoline guzzled by your average car,          holiday, then check it out!
 cheaper. Not only do I avoid spending          mation about bike tours, cycle paths         and the results (at www.bicycleuni-
 on petrol and parking, but I can save          and taking a bike on public transport. are disturbing: ‘meat pro-         The Thrifty Cookbook by Kate
 on a gym membership, too. I don’t                  Of course, cycling in Florence           duction is so wasteful that walking            Colquhoun (Bloomsbury) is quirky,
 worry about traffic jams or bus strikes.       isn’t all smooth gear changes. As was        actually uses more fossil energy than          fun, inspirational and infinitely
 My journey to work is exactly twice            revealed in TF 102, bike accidents are       driving, if you get your calories for          useful. How not to waste a single
 as long by public transport as it is by        on the rise in Italy: the national cycling   walking from red meat.’ However, this          thing in your fridge, from wine
 pedal-power. I don’t have to spend 30          association, Asaps, reports that one         was more of a critique of the US meat          dregs to soggy carrots and stale
 minutes on the number 14 with my               person dies each day and 40 more             industry. There are still many reasons         crusts. Your grandmother would
 face pressed into a stranger’s sweaty          are hospitalised for injuries suffered       why cycling is better for the environ-         be proud.
 armpit.                                        while cycling. Those statistics scared       ment.
     Florence’s city council estimates          me into buying a helmet. Helmets                 The first bike I bought in Italy was     The Florentine wants to hear from you
 that there are 28,000 cyclists pedal-          have come a long way since I last had        stolen long ago, which brings me to          if you know of any eco-projects around
 ling around town, and it hopes to              one in 1980something, but I still find       the other great problem for cyclists in      town, or if you have anything to say about
 encourage even more people onto                them impossibly geeky. I figure that as      Florence. Everyone has a sad stolen-         any of the topics covered in the Be Green
 two wheels by laying over 100kms               the only cyclist in Florence to use arm      bike story. An ex-colleague said she         In Flo pages! We look forward to hearing
 extra cycle paths by 2010. This would          signals, I’m probably off the geekdom        saw a thief as he cycled away on a dif-      from you at
 be a vast improvement on the current           scale anyway. By becoming a mem-             ferent bike, carrying her bike on his
 situation where, apart from certain            ber of Firenze in Bici Onlus (www.           shoulder.                                      Melissa Morozzo has been living in
 disconnected tracts of piste cicla-  ; €15 membership                Despite all this though, cycling           Tuscany for eight years and can just
 bili, cyclists must fight for space on         includes RC insurance), I got my hel-        is definitely the way forward in Flor-         about use the Italian subjunctive. Se io
 traffic-clogged roads. Cycling is also         met for a cool €14 from Florence By          ence in terms of saving the environ-           fossi in te, andrei a leggere il suo blog:
 being promoted by the local authori-           Bike in via San Zanobi. Firenze in Bici      ment, time and money. Just think how 

                                                                                                                   Megan Pacetti, Independent distributor
                                                                                                                   Tel. +39.339.5858054 -

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20                                                                               Life in Italy
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                               

Painting the spring in a Florentine garden                                                                                                                   by Rea Stavropoulos

          n a slope a few hundred metres    Lily pond in the Botanical Gardens                                         villa Gamberaia   outskirts of Florence, and this was their
          outside the medieval city gate                                                                                                 first home. It is a short bus ride from the
          of San Niccolò, I sit secluded                                                                                                 city centre to Castello, where you can
among olive and cypress trees, con-                                                                                                      visit the gardens serenaded by swallows
templating the panorama of Florence                                                                                                      and cicadas, with the scent of lemon
spread out before me, in the com-                                                                                                        blossom in the air and imagine Venus or
pany of the Queen of Denmark, Wil-                                                                                                       Flora gazing out onto the beautiful gar-
liam Shakespeare and the Princess of                                                                                                     dens through the half opened shutters.
Monaco—just some of the numerous                                                                                                             It was Grand Duke Cosimo I in the
species here in the city’s rose garden.                                                                                                  following century who laid out the
   The harsh sounds of motorini and                                                                                                      gardens on the design that can be seen
car horns mingle with birdsong and                                                                                                       today.
bells, and at 8:30 in the morning, when                                                                                                      He was passionate about plants,
the scent of roses is most intense,                                                                                                      founding the Botanical Garden in
Florentines and tourists are otherwise                                                                                                   Florence, the third oldest in the world,
occupied, so I have it all to myself.                                                                                                    in 1545. Cosimo sent experts on plant
   Weaving through the city’s crowded,                                                                                                   hunting expeditions around the world
narrow streets, dodging dogs, people                                                                                                     to find, catalogue and paint plants that
and various forms of transport on my                                                                                                     he added to his collection at Castello.
way here only intensifies the pleasure of                                                                                                 Here was to be found the renowned
being in the garden. Now, as I paint, my                                                                                                 Medici collection of citrus fruit, with
awareness of the bustle close by makes                                                                                                   rare specimens and strange hybrids,
this moment of quiet privacy all the        the south of the city. When the sun is         on either side to frame glimpses of           and the gardens still have what are
more precious.                              too strong, there is always a bench in         the city. Magnificent azaleas were in          claimed to be 500 of these pots brought
   This is just one of the gardens in       the shade on one side of the Isolotto,         bloom in enormous terracotta pots.            out regularly for the spring and sum-
and around the city that I have vis-        with its water and lemon garden sur-           In the summer the hydrangeas, hos-            mer and put back in the enormous
ited and painted during the month           rounding Giambologna’s Ocean foun-             tas and lilies will be in flower. There                    for the winter months.
of May. Florence’s name comes from          tain and the figures of Perseus and             is a romantic ‘English style’ park with           English humanist Francis Bacon,
‘Fiorenza’, the ‘flowering city’, and this   Andromeda reflected in the water. The           a small lake and winding stream. On           described gardening as ‘the purest
truly is the month of flowers. But Flor-     Prato delle Colonne, with its tall syca-       the loggia at the top of the hill one         of human pleasures’, and no doubt
ence’s gardens also provide peace and       more trees growing in a semi-circle            can pause for refreshments and a              Cosimo would have agreed for, in
a cool shade in the summer months.          like the columns of some ancient tem-          grand view over the terraced slopes           1570, he decided to retire to his villa
   Boboli Gardens, laid out by Grand        ple, is beautiful in the autumn, when          of the garden to the city and the hills       at Castello and spent his last years
Duke Cosimo’s wife, Eleonora of             the leaves turn gold, but it is lovely         beyond it.                                    there cultivating jasmine.
Toledo, are the grandest and most           every time of year, and generations of             It is just a short bus ride from the
extensive of the city’s gardens, with       Florentine children have been brought          city centre to the village of Settignano
their avenues of cypress trees, foun-       here to play after school by their grand-      and the Villa Gamberaia, whose gar-            GETTING THERE
tains, mazes, statues, urns and garden      parents. In the summer, it becomes an          dens American author Edith Wharton
                                            open-air theatre for opera and ballet.         described as ‘probably the most per-            BOBOLI GARDENS
‘rooms’ enclosed by high hedges. I
                                               Leave Boboli from the Fort Bel-             fect example of the art of producing a          Piazza Pitti
have my favourite places to paint there
                                            vedere exit and just a short walk to           great effect on a small scale’. Set in the      June – August open 8:15am –
according to the different seasons and
                                            Costa San Giorgio find the Bardini              hills just outside the village, the gardens     7:30pm (closed first and last Mon-
times of day. Right now, the light is
                                            gardens (use the same ticket). These           look down upon Florence and the Val             day of the month)
best in the late afternoon and the hour
                                            have been recently restored and are            d’Arno from the north. They have all the        Entrance: 7 euro
before sunset high up in the Knight’s
Garden, where low box-hedged par-           beautifully maintained, planted to             usual features of a Renaissance garden:         GIARDINO BARDINI
terres enclose roses and peonies and        provide flowering interest in every             a grotto, a             , a nymphaeum, a        Costa San Giorgio 4
the garden fits like a terrace into the      season. In May, the wisteria tunnel                    ,a           , but these are on a       June – August open 8:15am –
ramparts built by Michelangelo along        was in its full glory, lanterns of lilac       smaller, more human scale than those            7:30pm (closed first and last Mon-
the city walls, providing amphithe-         flowers overhead, with the light fil-            usually found in the grander Medici             day of the month)
atrical views of the hills of Arcetri to    tering through and spilling down               gardens. Iris Origo, who grew up in             Entrance: 7 euro
                                                                                           nearby Fiesole, described it as ‘the most
                                                                                           romantic garden of all’, perhaps because        VILLA GAMBERAIA
                                                                                           of the mystery surrounding its owner at         Via del Rossellino 72, Settignano
                                                                                           the time. Princess Ghyka, sister of the         Ataf bus #10
                                                                                           Queen of Serbia, acquired the villa in          Groups with reservations only.
                                                                                           1895 and lived there as a recluse with          Call 055/697205
                                                                                           her English companion, Miss Blood.              Entrance: 10 euro
                                                                                           She restored the gardens but disliked           VILLA MEDICEA DI CASTELLO
                                                                                           visitors, because, it was said, she had         Via di Castello 47
                                                                                           lost her former beauty. She bathed in the       June – August open 8:15am –
                                                                                           water gardens at dawn to avoid curious          7:30pm* (closed second and third
                                                                                           eyes. No one was bathing among the              Monday of the month)
                                                                                           water lilies when I visited, and except         Ataf bus #28
                                                                                           for one gardener and the odd visitor,           Free entrance
                                                                                           my fellow painter and I had the place to        *Open upon staff availability.
                                                                                           ourselves for the whole day.                    Call 055/454791 before visiting.
                                                                                               Botticcelli’s             and
                                                                                                    have become Florentine icons,
                                                                                           the essential goal of most visitors to the      Rea Stavropoulos is an artist from
                                                                                           Uffizi. They were commissioned by the            London with a studio in Florence. She
                                                                                           artist’s patron, Lorenzo di Pierfranc-          occasionally organizes painting courses
                                                                                           esco, a cousin of Lorenzo il Magnifico,          in Florentine gardens. Check out her
                                                                                           to be hung in his villa at Castello, on the     website at
                                                                                       Life in Italy                                                                                      21                                                                                                                                                  Thursday 18 June 2009

                                                                                                                                                  Food & WINE
                                                                                                 as possible and then get them sizzling hot in the oven and serve with lentils slow-
                                                                                                 cooked in stock with soffritto vegetables and some rosemary or sage. Sausages can

    Leftover lovers                                                                              be sliced and added to tomato, bean and onion stews, or hot rice dishes.
                                                                                                    Most types of white fish can be good for lunch the day after it’s been cooked:
                                                                                                 one way of serving it is to flake the fish and mix it into a mix of hot rice, cooked in
                                                                                                 stock and then flavoured with pepper and parsley or, if you’re feeling bold, curry
                                                                                                 spices. You can then add sauteed peppers and onions, cut into fine slices, some
                                                                                                 fresh parsley, and chopped hard-boiled eggs. Stir well to ensure that the flakes of
                                                                                                 fish are piping hot before you serve the dish.
                                                                                                    We won’t cover the usual ‘chop it all up and throw it in a bowl with salad and
                                                                                                 vinegar’ or ‘stick them in a hot pan and pour beaten eggs over the top’ routes, as
                                                                                                 you already know this. (However, a friend was converted, on a trip to visit friends
                                                                                                 in Rome, by what he considered to be the mind-blowing concept of a leftover lin-
                                                                                                 guine, tomato and onion omelette.) Use your imagination, as always. You think
                                                                                                 something might taste good in a salad? Isolate the flavours that work well and
    by Matt O’Leary                                                                              try to see if you can get them in a sauce or stew. Cuts of cooked meat and pre-
                                                                                                 prepared veg that would normally go in your omelettes can be wrapped in thin
                                                                                                 pancakes and baked in the oven instead. Who knows: soon you may find yourself
                                                                                                 cooking twice as much as you need at dinner and investing in a separate fridge for
                                                                                                 your beloved leftovers.

       agle-eyed readers might have noticed that, of late, this column has revolved
       around two distinct themes: summer and the onset of good weather, and
       thrift. It’s not through a lack of inspiration—I’d hate to give the impression              Matt O’Leary is the food editor of BUCK magazine and
that writing this column is as easy as gazing out of the window and thinking either
‘Cor, what a lovely day’ or ‘I wish I were a rich man’—but these, in fairness, do rep-
                                                                                                   He lives and works in Siena and London.
resent current obsessions. Saving money in the sunshine. That alliterates nicely.
   They’re not the only two things currently occupying my mental space, but a
food and drink column about labradoodles, the forthcoming Dylan Dog movie,
Bat For Lashes or lettuce cultivation would presumably see the editors of
                                                                                                                            R     E     C     I    P      E     S
         blowing the dust off their ‘REJECTED’ stamps and prying open the tin of
red ink. So, thrift and summer food it is: although depending on how the lettuce                       Recipe of the fortnight:
goes, we can consign that one to the ‘maybe’ pile for now.
   Anyway, this fortnight’s thrift advice revolves around what one should do when                                     C H I C K E N A N D A S PA R AG U S
presented with leftovers. Food wastage statistics are truly shocking. We, as con-                                       BAKE WITH LEEK SAUCE
sumers, tend to buy way too much food and cook it out of mismanagement, bore-
dom or desperation, and then end up having to cart big, aromatic binfuls of it out
                                                                                                         2 breast fillets of chicken, diced
for collection on a daily basis. And repurposing cooked food isn’t a tremendously
attractive concept at all, if we’re being honest. The word ‘leftover’ itself conjures                    5 large pieces of asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2cm pieces
up images of rejected, unloved scrag-ends, languishing forlornly in the fridge on                        1 yellow onion, peeled and chopped
a plate, gazing unappealingly up at you every time you open the door to pick out                         Oil for sauteeing
a Chino, drooping their shoulders as the door closes and leaves them, again, in                          Salt and pepper
darkness... waiting for the inevitable moment at which you’ve had just one glass of
wine too many and feel like a 2am, pre-unconsciousness sandwich.                                         25g butter
   Poor leftovers. It’s time to show them some of the love that they deserve. Addi-                      25g flour
tionally, if you factor in any spare cooked food into your eating plan, then you can                     1 small, trimmed leek, sliced very finely
eliminate the health risks involved with simply chilling food until you might feel                       500 ml milk
like eating it. The inevitable caveat about following instructions about storage and                     1 delicato stock cube
longevity apply here, as you’d expect: be careful to store food properly once it’s                       1 tbsp parsley, chopped
cooled, be very wary of risky ingredients like rice and cooked, processed (minced,
shredded or reconstituted meat), seafood and so on. But stick to the guidelines                        1. Fry the chicken and onion in the oil, until the chicken is browned lightly
and you’ll find yourself healthy and sated.                                                             and the onion is translucent.
   Roast, grilled, or sauteed pieces of meat make such good sandwiches and cold
                                                                                                       2. Transfer to a small, deep dish and dot the pieces of asparagus around.
cuts that it’s sometimes difficult to be bothered to do anything else to them. But
                                                                                                       Season and set aside.
they can also be unappetising and greasy the day after cooking, and so might need
extra care and attention. Cuts of beef and steaks, or veal, can be cut into inch-thick                 3. Melt the butter in a pan. Add the leek and stir well, cooking until the
pieces and cooked slowly in sauces made with plenty of tomato, celery, onion, car-                     leek is starting to soften. Add the flour and stir well, quickly, until it forms
rots and beans, plus wine, stock, garlic and parsley, until falling apart. Serve this                  a paste with the butter and leek. Now, add the milk slowly, stirring all the
with rice. Chicken can be denuded of its skinny, fatty bits and either hammered                        while, to make a sauce.
tender with a rolling pin and served cold with a salad of strongly flavoured leaves                     4. Add the stock cube and cook for a couple of minutes.
and crisp pancetta or cooked until piping hot in a creamy vegetable sauce (maybe                       Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley.
featuring leeks, spinach and mushrooms, with fresh sage and lots of pepper) before                     5. Pour the sauce over the chicken and vegetables. Transfer to a hot oven
being tucked into a pastry case and baked until golden.                                                and cook for 35–40 minutes, until the sauce is golden brown and bubbling.
   Lamb can be chopped into fine pieces and fried with garlic, lemon, rosemary and                      Serve with baked potatoes and green vegetables or salad.
parsley, then used to fill pitta bread or wraps with salad and a yoghurt and mint
dressing. Pork, if it’s been stored correctly, can be re-used too, but is best if it’s a fatty
joint from the belly or loin, preferably with the skin attached. Roll these as tightly
22                                                                                             Classified Ads
Thursday 18 June 2009                                                                                                                                                  

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   Studio Odontoiatrico Specialistico                    renovated. Enquiries to jeanmariecook@         bathroom, beautifully decorated. Refer-
       Dr. L. Mineo & Dr. P. Collini                                                                                                                    In the Santa Croce area apartment to
                                                                                  ences available. Call Gabriella after 7pm       rent for short term stays. Sleep 2+2
                                                                                                        +39.055.295380, +39.3398391910.                 double bed in loft conversion and sofa bed.
                                                         Florence centrally located elegant                                                             Newly decorated and with Air Condition-
                    - Laser Therapy                      studio flat. It consists of a large sitting-   n Housing wanted
                    - Aesthetic Treatments                                                                                                              ing. 80 euro a day. 400 Euro a week.
                                                         dining room, upper floor bedroom. Fully        Looking for room in apt. in Florence            1200 a month.
                    - Dental Implantation                equipped, air conditioned with a very nice     center (350-400 euros/month) for the last        E-mail
                    - Oral Surgery                       garden, quite location. Rent euro 700 per      three weeks of July, and possibly longer.
                                                         month. Only referenced. Please write to        Please email me if you have something!          n Jobs wanted
                    - Orthodontic Treatments
                                                         Mrs Cristina                Thanks! E-mail            Professional nanny/babysitter seeking
                    - Chiropractic                                                                                         full time position, minimum 30 hours
                                                                                                        Hello, 27 year-old graphic designer             weekly. Bilingual in English, mother tongue
      Clinic: Piazza Stazione 1- Firenze                 Studio flat, Palazzo Borghese, historical      looking for apartment/or shared flat
          Tel: +39 055 230 2723                                                                                                                         Italian. E-mail
                                                         centre. High ceilings, bedroom, kitchenette,   from 300-450 eu per month to move in on
                         bathroom w/shower, overlooking courtyard       July. Preferably in the centre or near Viale                                                                                                                              Professional nanny/Baby sitter seek-
                                                         (quiet), Internet euro 200 p.w.                A. Volta.                    ing full time position, minimum 30 hours
           Saturday Morning Open                         E-mail                            E-mail                    weekly. Bilingual in English, mother tongue
        Referring Dental Clinic in London                                                                                                               Italian. E-mail
       MS Dentistry - Professor Liviu Steier
 20 Winpole Str. W1G8GF - Ph: 0044 2075805011


                                                                                                                                                                    CONCEPT SALON
                                                                                                                                                         HAIR • BODY • MAKE-UP • MASSAGES
                                                                                                                                                            OFFICIAL AVEDA RETAILER

                                                                                                           Hair stylists, aesthetic treatments,          Via della Mosca, 8-12r
  NEW COURSES MONTHLY 4 weeks, 120 hours                                                                  cosmetics, solarium, spa treatments,
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  experienced trainers expert career counseling                                                                                                              Via dei Neri, 49r
     global opportunities     accommodations                                                                     Student Wednesdays!
                                                                                                           Discounts on spa and hair services
           MASTERS IN TESOL                                                                               Call now to make your appointment!
  MODERATED BY THE ELT INSTITUTE, HUNTER                                                                                                                            20% discount
  COLLEGE, CITY UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK                                                                          Wellness center Piazza Pitti                 for under-20s and students
   VIA LINGUA FLORENCE/AMERICAN LANGUAGE CENER                                                                     Piazza Pitti, 14 r -Firenze
         via Brunelleschi, 1 - Florence tel. 055283161                                                     Tel. 055 285510 -   
                                                                                                         Open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 7pm 
                                                                                Classified Ads                                                                                                 23                                                                                                                                                   Thursday 18 June 2009
                                                                                                                                                                    Bradley McMillan

      Classified ADS                                                                                                                                                  Tuscany
                                                                                                                                                                     Pc Clinic
                                                                                                 Skin Medical Clinic offers healing and              Mobile Computer Consultants
26 yr old canadian with visa, 7 yrs child-      Come bike in Tuscany with us! Fun,
care experience looking for babysitting         easy bike rides everyday with great food,        renewing experience designed especially           Trained Professionals can resolve
hours. Live out only, in Florence. Refer-       delicious wine, and winery tour. Tel.            for its clients. Safest, most effective, medi-         all computer and MAC
ences available. Beginner Italian.              334.7140267. /             cally sound and FDA approved machines                  and internet problems.
Available right away. Laura.                    E-mail                    and technology provide highest quality           Website hosting, creation and Design
E-mail                                                                   aesthetic solutions. Tel. 055.2741503.
                                                EUROPASS Your passport to Italy! Ital-                                                            Home Pc Repair – New computer setup
                                                                                                 E-mail                  Virus Removal And Protection
Les Mills Trained BodyFLOW/Body BAL-            ian language courses in the morning,
ANCE Instructor. Looking to teach at a          afternoon or at night. High-quality pro-
                                                                                                                                                   Data Backup - Software Installation
Les Mills club/studio. Bilingual: Italian &
                                                                                                 Odontoiatric and Holistic Clinic - expe-                Hardware Installation
                                                grammes for all levels. Summer special:
English. Vibrant, energetic instructor/EU       Junior Programme for kids between 14             rienced team offers a wide range of high
citizen.                  and 17. Morning: Italian classes Afternoon:      quality services including laser therapy,           And much more contact on
E-mail                   Social activities. Contact us for more infor-    aesthetic treatments, dental implants, sur-            cell. +39 334 1085438
                                                mation: Via S. Egidio 12 Tel. 055 2345802.       gery and orthodontics. Chiropractic treat-
Secretary, interpreter and translator. /                                ments, Naturopathy Specialist and Facial 
Swedish mother tongue, fluent in English        E-mail                      non invasive Aesthetic procedures. Call
and Italian, seeks employment in Florence                                                        055.2302723
and province. Caroline 340-815.65.72.           Earn a TEFL Certificate. Train to teach          E-mail
English mother-tongue teacher avail-
                                                English as a foreign language. New courses
                                                monthly - 4 weeks, 120 hr, 10 hr teaching
                                                                                                                                                   – ITALIAN IN FLORENCE –
able to help children in the afternoons         practice. Graduate credits offered towards       Official Aveda Retailer. Concept salon
with homework/ school subjects/ study-          a master in TESOL. Via Lingua Florence           specializing in hair and body care. 20% dis-
ing. Experience teaching bi-lingual kids. CV    Tel. 055 283161            count for under-20s and students.
available. E-mail           E-mail                    Contrasto - Via della Mosca, 8-12r or Via dei
                                                                                                 Neri, 49r - tel. 055.2398533
n Help wanted                                   Discover Florence from a totally differ-
We Need Help! Our business is growing           ent point of view. Boat trip on the Arno!
rapidly! Work from home 10-15 hours a           Leave the crowds behind and feel the gentle
                                                                                                 E-mail                          SUMMER SPECIAL:
week around your schedule! Earn part-time       breeze of the Arno River. Dont just visit the                                                           JUNIOR PROGRAMME
                                                                                                 Insurance service & assistance for for-
or full-time income. Full training provided.    world-famous Ponte Vecchio, float under it!                                                         ITALIAN LANGUAGE plus SOCIAL ACTIVITIES
Call to find out about our next Business        Sit back and relax, be refreshed by drinks and   eign people living in Italy: private health
Opportunity Presentation! Contact Megan         light nibbles.                                   insurance(medical student cover/medical
at tel. 3395858054 www.ricchezzaeliberta.       Book on-line or call: +39.055.210301             cover for tourist visa), property insurance,
com E-mail                             car insurance, all risks insurance. POZZI
                                                 E-mail         CARLO cell. 338.7008559. www.pozzibro-
Looking for a live-in au pair. If available                                             E-mail
from now and the summer months. Through-        Writing Retreat in Arezzo, 9/25-10/2.                                                               EUROPASS Centro Studi Europeo
out the summer, the job is full-time at the     Spark your creativity with internationally       Art Conservation. Trained in the USA, UK          VIA S. EGIDIO, 12 - 50122 FLORENCE
beach in Bolgheri. From September on, it        acclaimed teacher Laura Deutsch. All levels                                                                 TEL. 055 23 45 802
would be part-time at our home on via Pian                                                       and Italy now offers high quality painting
                                                welcome. Special rate available for locals.                                              -
dei Giullari in Florence. Room, bathroom and                             conservation care such as cleaning, con-
board are included. Requirements: mother-       E-mail                     solidation, retouch as well as frames.
tongue English speaker, picking up the                                                           Call +39.338.508.0005
children, no washing or cleaning the house.     n Services                             
Mornings off, tending to children afternoons.   Florence Pc Clinic computer consultants.         E-mail
Call Allegra Antinori at 348.6024362.           Trained professionals can resolve all Win-
E-mail             dows, Mac, Telephone and Internet prob-          City Car and Scooter Rental: Hourly,
                                                lems. Website hosting, creation and design.      daily, weekend, weekly, monthly and long
Free stay and food in Sicily. Stay with a
well referenced family in the spa and tour-     pc and Mac repair, new computer setup,           term rentals. GPS included in the price.
ist city of SCIACCA in exchange for English     virus removal and protection, data backup,       Free parking space night and day in our
conversation. Must be native English            software and hardware installation, and          Garage. CityCarRent, Via L. Alamanni 3/a,
speaker and somewhat fluent in Italian.         much more! Call +39.334.1085438.                 Florence (beside the SMN train station)
Woman or man. Call 039.333.9578847.                            Tel.055.2399231
E-mail                         E-mail       
n Classes, leisure activities                   Veterinarian at your service. House
Italian individual lessons in Florence.                                                          n Personals
                                                calls, vaccinations, preventive care, health
Sharpen your grammar to enjoy conver-                                                            English Speaking Expat Group. Get
sation. Fluent English, Japanese, French        assessments, medications and treatments.
                                                Tel. 333.8005343.                                together in a nurturing environment to sup-
spoken. Call Alberto and his Japanese wife
Fumiko, tel. 055-475152.                                  port one another in this adventure of being                                                                                an immigrant. Call Lily 055.289649

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                                                                                                    English       costs
                                                                                                    speakers       €50*

                                                                                                    Promuovi i tuoi servizi presso un
                                                                                                    pubblico internazionale.
                                                                                                    Questo spazio costa € 50 ad uscita
                                                                                                    sottoscrivendo un contratto
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                                                                                                    Please call for more information:
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