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barossa valley by fdh56iuoui

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									                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             the guide.




                                          the
                             barossa
                              valley


                                                                                                                                           The vibrant colours of the Barossa.  
                                                                                                                                           Clockwise from left: Murdock Wines Cellar 
                                                                                                                                           Door & Restaurant; the sprawling wine country; 
                                                                                                                                           Vintner’s Bar & Grill’s tom yum snapper; one of 
                                                                                                                                           the old churches; Victoria McClurg of Barossa 
                                                                                                                                           Valley Cheese Company; Vintner’s smart dining 
                                                                                                                                           room; Seppeltsfield Estate; Fleming & Ware 
                                                                                                                                           organic muesli at Keils Fine Food & Coffee.




With its historical vineyards and award-winning produce,                                    where to eat                                           Vintner’s Bar & Grill                          Murdock Wines cellar door                         Bissell (of Balnaves) mixes cabernet and
South Australia’s wine capital is still one of the country’s icons.                         appellation                                            Whether it’s a hunk of Terra Rossa sirloin     & restaurant                                      shiraz fruit from both. Cnr Magnolia and
                                                                                            With a spruce-up this winter, Appellation              with horseradish skordalia, or a wedge of      The new kid on the block, this glass-walled       Light Pass rds, Vine Vale, (08) 8563 1156.
WORDS Matt preston      PHOTOGRAPHY catherine sutherland                                    (set within vineyard retreat The Louise) is            hot-smoked salmon from Lyndoch, when           diner looking over the valley is fast making        Owner and local go-getter Kathryn
                                                                                            set to maintain its position as the region’s           co-owner Peter Clarke is cooking, expect       a name for itself as one of the best places for   Murray also runs Murdock Indulge
The Barossa is famous – famous for                And though a strong sense of history      leading fine diner. Mark McNamara’s                    punchy, unfussy food to match the              lunch. The feel is relaxed – right down to a      (33 Murray St, Angaston (08) 8564 3666),
big reds loaded with concentrated fruit        pervades the area, things are changing in    menu plunders such regional gems as                    confident surrounds. The interior is all       steak sanger on the specials list. Dig deeper,    where you can sip a decent short black
produced by ancient vines; famous for          this wine region, which is located just an   Barossa corn-fed chicken, perhaps adorned              monumental ironbark beams and polished         however, and you’ll find gems such as             while rummaging through designer
their cracking farmers’ market; famous         hour north of Adelaide. A new generation     with lachsschinken (cured pork loin), garlic           dark wood floors with a huge open fire.        magnificent crispy soft-shell crab with           homewares, children’s gear and jewellery.
for a proud German heritage that manifests     of cheesemakers, farmers and small artisan   and sage, and Huttonvale lamb. The epic                Outside, there’s a vine-shrouded courtyard     Asian mushrooms, dragonfruit and verjuice
itself at bakery counters and in butchers      producers are building a very modern food    international wine list is expectedly strong           for summer dining – perfect for appreciating   beurre blanc. A dessert of quince pannacotta      cafe Y, Yaldara estate Wines
full of wonderful smoked goods across          culture on the foundations of the region’s   on back vintages of iconic Barossa drops,              a well-priced wine list that includes Peter    with rose consommé is another cracker.            Lean back into one of the green director’s
the region, and, not least of all, famous as   strong culinary traditions. Indeed, some     but also big-name champagnes. Appellation              Lehmann’s Futures Shiraz and an uber-cool      Wines are pulled from Murdock’s vineyards         chairs to enjoy this airy, casual space,
the home of that wonderful, inspiring          winemakers are even talking such heresy      is also open for Sunday lunch. Seppeltsfield           Radford Dale riesling. Cnr Stockwell and       here and in the Coonawarra. For their             which looks out onto a babbling brook
cook, Maggie Beer.                             as making more restrained wines.             Rd, Marananga, (08) 8562 4144.                         Angaston rds, Angaston, (08) 8564 2488.        well-regarded Merger, winemaker Peter             complete with splashing ducks. The real


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pleasure, however, is to discover the sort      1918 Bistro & Grill                             where to drink
of unpretentious but delicious food you’d       The garden dining is one of the main            As you drive through the Barossa vines
hope to find in more winery restaurants         attractions of this popular cottage             stretch in every direction, with household
– think a good-looking smoked salmon            cafe-style restaurant, where the choices        names including Richmond Grove, St
terrine with capers and creme fraiche or a      range from pizza loaded with cheddar,           Hallett and Penfolds seemingly on every
hunk of Angus beef topped with anchovy          chilli, basil and peppery local mettwurst       corner. Giant wineries like Jacob’s Creek,
butter, which is perfect with a bottle of The   (smoked German sausage) to cider-battered       Grant Burge and Yalumba sit alongside the
Farms, Yaldara’s flagship shiraz. Desserts,     garfish with an apple and fennel salad.         historical edifice of Seppelt and smaller
such as their muscat-poached dried fruits,      94 Murray St, Tanunda, (08) 8563 0405.          cult names, such as Rockford, Torbreck,
are equally elegant. They also serve brunch                                                     and Charles Melton. With no less than 600
from 9.30am on weekends. Try the house-         Barossa Vines cellar door & cafe                grape growers, at least 60 cellar doors and
baked fig bread with fresh ricotta, baked       This is a good pit-stop while you’re out        some of the country’s oldest vines, it’s no
apple and honey stars. Hermannthumm             wine-tasting as this cafe makes one of the      wonder the Barossa lays claim to the title
Drive, Lyndoch, (08) 8524 0250.                 region’s best coffees. You can also dawdle      of Australia’s wine capital. There’s also
                                                at one of the outside tables for vineyard       the joy of discovering the next big thing
keils fine food & coffee                        views and their homemade lasagne.               – even if some of them have been around
Elsa Holmes’ cafe, with its white walls,        Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 7675.           for a while, unappreciated.
cool artworks and pressed metal ceilings,                                                          It seems that every other winery these
makes a good coffee made from Toby’s            peter lehMann Wines                             days – not content with just offering
Estate beans to go with perhaps their           & cellar door                                   tastings – is also offering winery tours.
Fleming & Ware muesli with creamy               Those in the know regard Margaret               Although you’d be happy to come to Ross
yoghurt and fresh fruit, or your pick of        Lehmann’s weighbridge platter as one            Estate (Barossa Valley Way, Lyndoch,
their homemade cakes and slices. 63-67          of the icons of the Barossa. It’s not hip or    (08) 8524 4033) for their pizza-friendly
Murray Street, Tanunda, (08) 8563 1468.         groovy but she sure knows how to pick           tempranillo, rugged single-vineyard
                                                a great dill cucumber, and her selection        old-vine grenache and their lean and
Blond coffee & store                            of local preserved meats is impeccable.         savoury single-vineyard shiraz alone.
This is a popular spot for a panini, the        Para Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2100.
sexy bruschetta of warm pear, brie and                                                          rockford Wines
lachsschinken, or a hearty breakfast of         die Barossa Wurst haus & BakerY                 Set in a 150-year-old stone barn, Rockford’s
eggs any way you like with spinach,             John and Chris Radzevicius’ cafe is             intimate cellar door is usually one of the         The Barossa Brewing Co. Clockwise 
oven-roasted tomatoes and some rather           decidedly daggy but there’s no arguing          few places in Australia where you can buy          from top right: Barossa Farm Produce’s 
special bacon from the Mount Pleasant           with one of their epic bratwurst rolls          the current release of Rockford’s famous           charcuterie; Barossa Valley Cheese Company’s 
                                                                                                                                                   preserved fruit; Blond Coffee & Store’s pear 
butcher. They also bake fine cakes, and         filled with Germanic snag, sauerkraut and       Basket Press shiraz for under $50 (if it’s still
                                                                                                                                                   frangipane tart; Barossa Valley Cheese 
have a good deli section offering small         mustard. For those looking for something        available)! For many, that’s reason enough         Company; Carême’s Claire Wood with her  
goods and cheeses including the local           even more substantial, they also do             to make this a regular place of pilgrimage –       baked goods at Barossa Farmers Market.
Woodside goat’s curd as well as the             solid plates of wursts and kranskies.           well that, and the Moppa Springs, which is
popular imported Fromage d’Affinois.            86a Murray St, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2263.         Robert O’Callaghan’s classic Barossa blend
60 Murray St, Angaston, (08) 8564 3444.            Those looking for a broader German           of grenache, shiraz and mataro (GSM).
                                                menu in slightly more glam surroundings         Come summer, though, it’s their Alicante
the south australian                            make their way to Krondorf Road Café at         Bouchet rosé that walks out the door.
coMpanY store                                   Kabminye Wines (Krondorf Rd, Krondorf,          Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2720.
Hidden off the main drag, this old mess         (08) 8563 0889). Here, you’ll find such
hall for the local fruit processing factory     Silesian delights as pork chop from Linke’s     charles Melton Wines
has a broad verandah for balmy days             butcher served with parsley dumplings,          Over the road from Rockford is one of the
and green views. Chef Chris Wilksch             local Weich’s egg noodles, or a lachsschinken   Barossa’s most laid-back cellardoors, where
knocks out approachable food – perhaps          sanger packed with quark cheese, cos and        tastings are held around a long wooden
a hollandaise-topped stack of bacon,            their own preserved figs.                       table with easy platters to pick at. Try their
poached egg, eggplant and mushroom on a            Also try Lyndoch Bakery (26 Barossa          potent shiraz and flagship Nine Popes – an
muffin for breakfast, or mango-glazed pork      Valley Hwy, (08) 8524 4422) for laberkase       Aussie play on the famous Rhône GSM
for lunch. There’s also a providore and gift    (meatloaf), schweinshaxe (Bavarian-style        blend, Chateauneuf du Pape – but it’s their
store selling handmade pewter and blown         ham hock) with mashed potato, or that           rosé, named after Charlie’s wife Virginia,
glass trinkets made by local designers.         peculiarly Berlin delicacy of bratwurst         that’s the real crowd-pleaser among them.
27 Valley Rd, Angaston, (08) 8564 3788.         with curry sauce.                               Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 3606.


70  delicious.
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peter lehMann Wines                            the Barossa BreWinG coMpanY                       herself with her washed-rind cow’s milk
Winemaker Andrew Wigan draws on                This boutique brewery is a weekend                cheeses, such as the multi-award-winning
fruit from across the Barossa’s varied         operation, making a small range of ales           Washington and the velvety Wanera.
sub-regions to create some fascinating         (a lager, a porter and a cloudy unfiltered        It’s also worth coming to her cheeserie
vineyard-specific shiraz. Also look out        wheat beer) in an old wheat store. If they‘re     to taste her cutely packaged goat’s milk
for their sparkling shiraz and some rather     closed for tastings, go drink their beer at the   washed-rind and camembert cheeses, too.
yummy aged riesling. Para Rd, Tanunda,         Greenock Creek Tavern around the corner.
(08) 8563 2100.                                Mill St, Greenock. (08) 8563 4041.                countrY cupBoard antiques
                                                  Over in Tanunda, the two main places           We could spend hours, and more than a
lanGMeil WinerY                                to drink beer or have a pub feed are              few dollars, poking around this fantastic
If you like your wines full-bodied and         the The Tanunda Hotel (51 Murray St,              treasure trove of culinary artefacts. Packed
intense, Langmeil’s cute and ancient           (08) 8563 2030) and the Tanunda Club              with old copper pots, boxes of silver and
cellar door is a must-do stop. Try the dry-    (45 MacDonnell St, (08) 8563 2058), one of        other kitchen curios, this gem is run by
grown grenache and their Orphan Bank           SA’s oldest clubs, operating since 1891.          husband-and-wife team Angela and
shiraz, especially as they crop from some                                                        Gordon Smail. Open Friday to Sunday only.
of the world’s oldest shiraz vines, which      taste eden ValleY                                 69 Murray St, Tanunda, (08) 8563 3155.
were planted in the 1840s. Cnr Para and        If you’re looking for wines that are a little        Other attractions around here include
Langmeil rds, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2595.         less full-on than the Barossa’s but without       Apex Bakery (1a Elizabeth St, Tanunda
                                               involving too much extra driving around,          (08) 8563 2483) with its old woodfired
torBreck                                       check out this communal cellar door for           oven. Come here for German breads and
Like Chris Ringland of Three Rivers, Dave      neighbouring wine region Eden Valley.             their German yeast cake, which is a bit like
Powell is another Rockford alumnus who         Here, through comparative tastings of             eating apple crumble on soft white bread.
has risen to become a Barossa star over        some of the 30 wines available, manager              The local Foodland (119 Murray St,
the past decade. He seeks out fruit from       Karina Kroehn will introduce you to               Tanunda, (08) 8563 0550) stocks some
low-yielding, old and dry-grown vines          cracking vineyards at Eden Hall, Radford          local produce – most notably Zimmys’
from a selection of blocks that pepper         Dale and Poonawatta Estate. 36a Murray            dill cucumbers. However, this pales in
the valley to make powerful wines that         St, Angaston, (08) 8564 2435.                     comparison to the array at Maggie Beer’s
reference the Rhône, such as the flagship         Of course, while you’re up this way            Farm Shop (Pheasant Farm Rd, off Samuel
RunRig, where the shiraz is lifted by a tiny   you should drive to Eden Valley’s                 Rd, Nuriootpa, (08) 8562 4477). Here, you’ll
percentage of viognier. Lot 51, Roennfeldt     legendary winery Henschke (Henschke               find everything from her famous verjuice
Rd Marananga, (08) 8562 4155.                  Rd, Keyneton, (08) 8564 8223), makers of          and burnt fig jam, to a cafe selling picnic
                                               not only the top-notch Hill of Grace shiraz,      boxes to eat by the lake. These might
seppeltsfield Wines                            but also a range of very fine quaffable,          contain her mushroom paté and Ballycroft
There’s something a little other-worldly       and rather more affordable, wines.                Gruth fresh curds with some woodfired
about the avenues of palms, hill-top                                                             bread, or a pheasant and pork terrine with
mausoleum and the huge crenulated              where to shop                                     a cabernet sauce and rocket.
wine tanks at this 150-year-old winery,        linke’s central Meat store,
which runs a $59 premium tour where            The Linke family has been at this butchery        Barossa farMers Market                         The Asian interiors of Barossa Vista. Clockwise 
                                                                                                                                                from left: the vineyards at Murdock Wines; the 
you taste their sherries and Para Liqueur      for 80 years – long enough to build a             This Saturday market (7.30-11.30am)
                                                                                                                                                original Seppeltsfield fortified wine bottles; the 
tawny made from 100-year-old material.         huge reputation for their skills with the         isn’t huge, but it’s still packed with great   charming Miner’s Cottage; the old cellar door 
They also have a small cafe stocked with       smokehouse out the back, which is fuelled         produce and is a heartbeat of the region.       at Rockford Wines; winemaker Ben Glaetzer  
sweet and savoury pastries from Carême         by red gum and mallee roots. Their bacon,         You’re likely to run into everyone doing       of Glaetzer Wines.
including the lemon meringue or smoked         garlic or plain mettwurst and lachsschinken       their shopping here, from the woman
salmon and tarragon tarts. 1 Seppeltsfield     are legendary, while the black and white          who runs your B&B to famous local
Rd, Seppeltsfield, (08) 8568 6200.             puddings are none to shabby either.               winemakers. Stallholders to look out for
  Murray Street Vineyards (Murray St,          27 Murray St, Nuriootpa, (08) 8562 1143.          include Huttonvale lamb, Pewsey Vale beef
Greenock, (08) 8562 8373), run by a wing         Schulz Butchers (42 Murray St,                  and Barossa Farm Produce, which is run by
of the Seppelt family, has also dispensed      Angaston, (08) 8564 2145) is also worth           Saskia Beer and partner Greg Price. They’re
with the tasting counter. Instead, you sit     visiting for the double-smoked bacon              famous for their chooks but now also make
around a table to discuss issues such as       and German-style smoked meats.                    a name for their marvellous prosciutto
the differences between their two shiraz,        At Barossa Valley Cheese Company                and bacon sold under the Black Pig label.
made respectively with fruit from the          (67B Murray St, Angaston, (08) 8564 3636)         Also check out Tracey Skepper’s distinctly
sub-regions of Greenock and Gomersal.          Victoria McClurg has made a name for              funky Ballycroft cheeses farm-made with


72  delicious.                                                                                                                                                           delicious.  73
the guide.

                                                                                                                                milk from her sister’s Holstien and Jersey
                                                                                                                                herd. First stop, however, should always be
                                                                                                                                Carême. As well as making pastry dough,
                                         12.                                                                                    William and Claire Wood bake a dizzying
                                                                                                                                tart selection that sells out fast. Vintners
                                                                                                                                Shed (behind Vintners Bar & Grill), cnr
                                                           13. 14.
                                   11.         10.                                                                              Stockwell and Nuriootpa rds, Angaston.
                                                                            15.

                                                      9.
                                                                                     16.                                        where to stay
                                                                                                                                Miners cottaGe
                                                     7.         8.
                                               6.                                                                               This cute two-room 1870s cottage has an
                                                                                                                        17.
                                                                                                                                open fire, a marvellous little back verandah
                                                                                                                                in a great bush setting and access to a rather
                                                5.                                                                              fine pool. From $180 per double per night.
                  1.                                                                                                            Goldfields Rd, Cockatoo Valley, (08) 8524
                                                                                                                                6213 / 0419 806 262, minerscottage.com.au.
                  2.                                                                               18.
                         3.
                                                                                                                                MistY rose Barossa chalets
                                                                                                                                The name may suggest doilies and antique
 4.                                                                                                                             Victorian dolls but these are actually six
                                                                                                                                modern, self-contained units. They each
                                                                                                                                boast great views over Barossa Valley from
                                                                                                                                the bedroom, large spa bath and the lounge
                                                                                                                                with its gas log fire. From $290 per double
                                                                                                                                per night. Cnr Fuss Rd and Yaldara Dr,
                                                                                                                                Lyndoch, 1800 990 055, mistyrose.com.au.

                                                                                                                                Barossa Vista
                                                                                                                                This three-bed, two-bathroom cottage on
                                                                                                                                the edge of town has a designer interior
                                                                                                                                with a distinctly Asian feel. Besides
                                                                                                                                contemporary luxuries like i-Pod speakers
                                                                                                                                and wireless access, there’s a stainess-steel
                                                                                                                                kitchen and a large deck with views (over
      map key                                                                                                                   the caravan park) to distant hills. From
                                                                                                                                $220 per double per night. 1b Murray St,
      1918 Bistro & Grill ............................... 7          Lyndoch Bakery ................................... 2       Angaston, 0423 019 353, barossavista.com.
      Apex Bakery ........................................ 7         Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop ..................13
      Appellation .........................................10        Miners Cottage .................................... 4
      Barossa Farmers Market ...................15                   Misty Rose Barossa Chalets ................ 3              Jellicoe house
      Barossa Valley Cheese Company .......16                        Murdock Indulge ................................16         If you’re looking for somewhere blissfully
      Barossa Vines Cellar Door & Café  ...... 5     .               Murdock Wines  ................................... 7       off the beaten track, then this beautifully
                     .
      Barossa Vista  ...................................... 6        Murray Street Vineyards ....................12             restored four-bed bluestone homestead in
      Blond Coffee & Store ........................... 7             Peter Lehmann Wines & Cellar Door .. 9
                                                                                                                                the middle of a vineyard is for you. Owner
      Café Y, Yaldara Estate Wines ............... 1                 Rockford Wines ................................... 5
      Charles Melton Wines ......................... 5               Ross Estate  ......................................... 3
                                                                                  .                                             Helen Adams has thought of everything,
      Country Cupboard Antiques ................ 7                   Seppeltsfield Wines  ...........................11
                                                                                               .                                from a fully equipped kitchen and pantry,
      Die Barossa Wurst Haus & Bakery ...... 7                       Schulz Butchers .................................16        to a new copy of Maggie’s Harvest left
      Greenock Creek Tavern ......................12                 The South Australian Company Store 16
                                                                                                                                                                                 illustration: PRISCILLA nIELSEn




                                                                                                                                enticingly open by the stove. With her
                .
      Henschke  ...........................................17                        .
                                                                     Tanunda Club  ...................................... 7 
                                                                                                                                Angaston Appetizers range of platters, and
      Jellicoe House ....................................18                                .
                                                                     Taste Eden Valley  ...............................16
      Keils Fine Food & Coffee ..................... 7               The Barossa Brewing Company .........12                    the collection of her partner Simon’s Sorby
      Krondorf Road Café ............................. 5             The Tanunda Hotel .............................. 7         Adams wines (to buy at cellar door prices),
      Langmeil Winery ................................. 9            Torbreck .............................................10   you don’t even need to leave! From $250
      Linke’s Central Meat Store .................14                 Vintner’s Bar & Grill ...........................15        per room. Sawpit Gully Rd, Mt McKenzie
                                                                                                                                via Angaston, (08) 8564 2741. d.


74  delicious.

								
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