VIEWS: 21 PAGES: 4 POSTED ON: 8/26/2011
the guide. the barossa valley The vibrant colours of the Barossa. Clockwise from left: Murdock Wines Cellar Door & Restaurant; the sprawling wine country; Vintner’s Bar & Grill’s tom yum snapper; one of the old churches; Victoria McClurg of Barossa Valley Cheese Company; Vintner’s smart dining room; Seppeltsfield Estate; Fleming & Ware organic muesli at Keils Fine Food & Coffee. With its historical vineyards and award-winning produce, where to eat Vintner’s Bar & Grill Murdock Wines cellar door Bissell (of Balnaves) mixes cabernet and South Australia’s wine capital is still one of the country’s icons. appellation Whether it’s a hunk of Terra Rossa sirloin & restaurant shiraz fruit from both. Cnr Magnolia and With a spruce-up this winter, Appellation with horseradish skordalia, or a wedge of The new kid on the block, this glass-walled Light Pass rds, Vine Vale, (08) 8563 1156. WORDS Matt preston PHOTOGRAPHY catherine sutherland (set within vineyard retreat The Louise) is hot-smoked salmon from Lyndoch, when diner looking over the valley is fast making Owner and local go-getter Kathryn set to maintain its position as the region’s co-owner Peter Clarke is cooking, expect a name for itself as one of the best places for Murray also runs Murdock Indulge The Barossa is famous – famous for And though a strong sense of history leading fine diner. Mark McNamara’s punchy, unfussy food to match the lunch. The feel is relaxed – right down to a (33 Murray St, Angaston (08) 8564 3666), big reds loaded with concentrated fruit pervades the area, things are changing in menu plunders such regional gems as confident surrounds. The interior is all steak sanger on the specials list. Dig deeper, where you can sip a decent short black produced by ancient vines; famous for this wine region, which is located just an Barossa corn-fed chicken, perhaps adorned monumental ironbark beams and polished however, and you’ll find gems such as while rummaging through designer their cracking farmers’ market; famous hour north of Adelaide. A new generation with lachsschinken (cured pork loin), garlic dark wood floors with a huge open fire. magnificent crispy soft-shell crab with homewares, children’s gear and jewellery. for a proud German heritage that manifests of cheesemakers, farmers and small artisan and sage, and Huttonvale lamb. The epic Outside, there’s a vine-shrouded courtyard Asian mushrooms, dragonfruit and verjuice itself at bakery counters and in butchers producers are building a very modern food international wine list is expectedly strong for summer dining – perfect for appreciating beurre blanc. A dessert of quince pannacotta cafe Y, Yaldara estate Wines full of wonderful smoked goods across culture on the foundations of the region’s on back vintages of iconic Barossa drops, a well-priced wine list that includes Peter with rose consommé is another cracker. Lean back into one of the green director’s the region, and, not least of all, famous as strong culinary traditions. Indeed, some but also big-name champagnes. Appellation Lehmann’s Futures Shiraz and an uber-cool Wines are pulled from Murdock’s vineyards chairs to enjoy this airy, casual space, the home of that wonderful, inspiring winemakers are even talking such heresy is also open for Sunday lunch. Seppeltsfield Radford Dale riesling. Cnr Stockwell and here and in the Coonawarra. For their which looks out onto a babbling brook cook, Maggie Beer. as making more restrained wines. Rd, Marananga, (08) 8562 4144. Angaston rds, Angaston, (08) 8564 2488. well-regarded Merger, winemaker Peter complete with splashing ducks. The real 68 delicious. the guide. pleasure, however, is to discover the sort 1918 Bistro & Grill where to drink of unpretentious but delicious food you’d The garden dining is one of the main As you drive through the Barossa vines hope to find in more winery restaurants attractions of this popular cottage stretch in every direction, with household – think a good-looking smoked salmon cafe-style restaurant, where the choices names including Richmond Grove, St terrine with capers and creme fraiche or a range from pizza loaded with cheddar, Hallett and Penfolds seemingly on every hunk of Angus beef topped with anchovy chilli, basil and peppery local mettwurst corner. Giant wineries like Jacob’s Creek, butter, which is perfect with a bottle of The (smoked German sausage) to cider-battered Grant Burge and Yalumba sit alongside the Farms, Yaldara’s flagship shiraz. Desserts, garfish with an apple and fennel salad. historical edifice of Seppelt and smaller such as their muscat-poached dried fruits, 94 Murray St, Tanunda, (08) 8563 0405. cult names, such as Rockford, Torbreck, are equally elegant. They also serve brunch and Charles Melton. With no less than 600 from 9.30am on weekends. Try the house- Barossa Vines cellar door & cafe grape growers, at least 60 cellar doors and baked fig bread with fresh ricotta, baked This is a good pit-stop while you’re out some of the country’s oldest vines, it’s no apple and honey stars. Hermannthumm wine-tasting as this cafe makes one of the wonder the Barossa lays claim to the title Drive, Lyndoch, (08) 8524 0250. region’s best coffees. You can also dawdle of Australia’s wine capital. There’s also at one of the outside tables for vineyard the joy of discovering the next big thing keils fine food & coffee views and their homemade lasagne. – even if some of them have been around Elsa Holmes’ cafe, with its white walls, Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 7675. for a while, unappreciated. cool artworks and pressed metal ceilings, It seems that every other winery these makes a good coffee made from Toby’s peter lehMann Wines days – not content with just offering Estate beans to go with perhaps their & cellar door tastings – is also offering winery tours. Fleming & Ware muesli with creamy Those in the know regard Margaret Although you’d be happy to come to Ross yoghurt and fresh fruit, or your pick of Lehmann’s weighbridge platter as one Estate (Barossa Valley Way, Lyndoch, their homemade cakes and slices. 63-67 of the icons of the Barossa. It’s not hip or (08) 8524 4033) for their pizza-friendly Murray Street, Tanunda, (08) 8563 1468. groovy but she sure knows how to pick tempranillo, rugged single-vineyard a great dill cucumber, and her selection old-vine grenache and their lean and Blond coffee & store of local preserved meats is impeccable. savoury single-vineyard shiraz alone. This is a popular spot for a panini, the Para Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2100. sexy bruschetta of warm pear, brie and rockford Wines lachsschinken, or a hearty breakfast of die Barossa Wurst haus & BakerY Set in a 150-year-old stone barn, Rockford’s eggs any way you like with spinach, John and Chris Radzevicius’ cafe is intimate cellar door is usually one of the The Barossa Brewing Co. Clockwise oven-roasted tomatoes and some rather decidedly daggy but there’s no arguing few places in Australia where you can buy from top right: Barossa Farm Produce’s special bacon from the Mount Pleasant with one of their epic bratwurst rolls the current release of Rockford’s famous charcuterie; Barossa Valley Cheese Company’s preserved fruit; Blond Coffee & Store’s pear butcher. They also bake fine cakes, and filled with Germanic snag, sauerkraut and Basket Press shiraz for under $50 (if it’s still frangipane tart; Barossa Valley Cheese have a good deli section offering small mustard. For those looking for something available)! For many, that’s reason enough Company; Carême’s Claire Wood with her goods and cheeses including the local even more substantial, they also do to make this a regular place of pilgrimage – baked goods at Barossa Farmers Market. Woodside goat’s curd as well as the solid plates of wursts and kranskies. well that, and the Moppa Springs, which is popular imported Fromage d’Affinois. 86a Murray St, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2263. Robert O’Callaghan’s classic Barossa blend 60 Murray St, Angaston, (08) 8564 3444. Those looking for a broader German of grenache, shiraz and mataro (GSM). menu in slightly more glam surroundings Come summer, though, it’s their Alicante the south australian make their way to Krondorf Road Café at Bouchet rosé that walks out the door. coMpanY store Kabminye Wines (Krondorf Rd, Krondorf, Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2720. Hidden off the main drag, this old mess (08) 8563 0889). Here, you’ll find such hall for the local fruit processing factory Silesian delights as pork chop from Linke’s charles Melton Wines has a broad verandah for balmy days butcher served with parsley dumplings, Over the road from Rockford is one of the and green views. Chef Chris Wilksch local Weich’s egg noodles, or a lachsschinken Barossa’s most laid-back cellardoors, where knocks out approachable food – perhaps sanger packed with quark cheese, cos and tastings are held around a long wooden a hollandaise-topped stack of bacon, their own preserved figs. table with easy platters to pick at. Try their poached egg, eggplant and mushroom on a Also try Lyndoch Bakery (26 Barossa potent shiraz and flagship Nine Popes – an muffin for breakfast, or mango-glazed pork Valley Hwy, (08) 8524 4422) for laberkase Aussie play on the famous Rhône GSM for lunch. There’s also a providore and gift (meatloaf), schweinshaxe (Bavarian-style blend, Chateauneuf du Pape – but it’s their store selling handmade pewter and blown ham hock) with mashed potato, or that rosé, named after Charlie’s wife Virginia, glass trinkets made by local designers. peculiarly Berlin delicacy of bratwurst that’s the real crowd-pleaser among them. 27 Valley Rd, Angaston, (08) 8564 3788. with curry sauce. Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, (08) 8563 3606. 70 delicious. the guide. the guide. peter lehMann Wines the Barossa BreWinG coMpanY herself with her washed-rind cow’s milk Winemaker Andrew Wigan draws on This boutique brewery is a weekend cheeses, such as the multi-award-winning fruit from across the Barossa’s varied operation, making a small range of ales Washington and the velvety Wanera. sub-regions to create some fascinating (a lager, a porter and a cloudy unfiltered It’s also worth coming to her cheeserie vineyard-specific shiraz. Also look out wheat beer) in an old wheat store. If they‘re to taste her cutely packaged goat’s milk for their sparkling shiraz and some rather closed for tastings, go drink their beer at the washed-rind and camembert cheeses, too. yummy aged riesling. Para Rd, Tanunda, Greenock Creek Tavern around the corner. (08) 8563 2100. Mill St, Greenock. (08) 8563 4041. countrY cupBoard antiques Over in Tanunda, the two main places We could spend hours, and more than a lanGMeil WinerY to drink beer or have a pub feed are few dollars, poking around this fantastic If you like your wines full-bodied and the The Tanunda Hotel (51 Murray St, treasure trove of culinary artefacts. Packed intense, Langmeil’s cute and ancient (08) 8563 2030) and the Tanunda Club with old copper pots, boxes of silver and cellar door is a must-do stop. Try the dry- (45 MacDonnell St, (08) 8563 2058), one of other kitchen curios, this gem is run by grown grenache and their Orphan Bank SA’s oldest clubs, operating since 1891. husband-and-wife team Angela and shiraz, especially as they crop from some Gordon Smail. Open Friday to Sunday only. of the world’s oldest shiraz vines, which taste eden ValleY 69 Murray St, Tanunda, (08) 8563 3155. were planted in the 1840s. Cnr Para and If you’re looking for wines that are a little Other attractions around here include Langmeil rds, Tanunda, (08) 8563 2595. less full-on than the Barossa’s but without Apex Bakery (1a Elizabeth St, Tanunda involving too much extra driving around, (08) 8563 2483) with its old woodfired torBreck check out this communal cellar door for oven. Come here for German breads and Like Chris Ringland of Three Rivers, Dave neighbouring wine region Eden Valley. their German yeast cake, which is a bit like Powell is another Rockford alumnus who Here, through comparative tastings of eating apple crumble on soft white bread. has risen to become a Barossa star over some of the 30 wines available, manager The local Foodland (119 Murray St, the past decade. He seeks out fruit from Karina Kroehn will introduce you to Tanunda, (08) 8563 0550) stocks some low-yielding, old and dry-grown vines cracking vineyards at Eden Hall, Radford local produce – most notably Zimmys’ from a selection of blocks that pepper Dale and Poonawatta Estate. 36a Murray dill cucumbers. However, this pales in the valley to make powerful wines that St, Angaston, (08) 8564 2435. comparison to the array at Maggie Beer’s reference the Rhône, such as the flagship Of course, while you’re up this way Farm Shop (Pheasant Farm Rd, off Samuel RunRig, where the shiraz is lifted by a tiny you should drive to Eden Valley’s Rd, Nuriootpa, (08) 8562 4477). Here, you’ll percentage of viognier. Lot 51, Roennfeldt legendary winery Henschke (Henschke find everything from her famous verjuice Rd Marananga, (08) 8562 4155. Rd, Keyneton, (08) 8564 8223), makers of and burnt fig jam, to a cafe selling picnic not only the top-notch Hill of Grace shiraz, boxes to eat by the lake. These might seppeltsfield Wines but also a range of very fine quaffable, contain her mushroom paté and Ballycroft There’s something a little other-worldly and rather more affordable, wines. Gruth fresh curds with some woodfired about the avenues of palms, hill-top bread, or a pheasant and pork terrine with mausoleum and the huge crenulated where to shop a cabernet sauce and rocket. wine tanks at this 150-year-old winery, linke’s central Meat store, which runs a $59 premium tour where The Linke family has been at this butchery Barossa farMers Market The Asian interiors of Barossa Vista. Clockwise from left: the vineyards at Murdock Wines; the you taste their sherries and Para Liqueur for 80 years – long enough to build a This Saturday market (7.30-11.30am) original Seppeltsfield fortified wine bottles; the tawny made from 100-year-old material. huge reputation for their skills with the isn’t huge, but it’s still packed with great charming Miner’s Cottage; the old cellar door They also have a small cafe stocked with smokehouse out the back, which is fuelled produce and is a heartbeat of the region. at Rockford Wines; winemaker Ben Glaetzer sweet and savoury pastries from Carême by red gum and mallee roots. Their bacon, You’re likely to run into everyone doing of Glaetzer Wines. including the lemon meringue or smoked garlic or plain mettwurst and lachsschinken their shopping here, from the woman salmon and tarragon tarts. 1 Seppeltsfield are legendary, while the black and white who runs your B&B to famous local Rd, Seppeltsfield, (08) 8568 6200. puddings are none to shabby either. winemakers. Stallholders to look out for Murray Street Vineyards (Murray St, 27 Murray St, Nuriootpa, (08) 8562 1143. include Huttonvale lamb, Pewsey Vale beef Greenock, (08) 8562 8373), run by a wing Schulz Butchers (42 Murray St, and Barossa Farm Produce, which is run by of the Seppelt family, has also dispensed Angaston, (08) 8564 2145) is also worth Saskia Beer and partner Greg Price. They’re with the tasting counter. Instead, you sit visiting for the double-smoked bacon famous for their chooks but now also make around a table to discuss issues such as and German-style smoked meats. a name for their marvellous prosciutto the differences between their two shiraz, At Barossa Valley Cheese Company and bacon sold under the Black Pig label. made respectively with fruit from the (67B Murray St, Angaston, (08) 8564 3636) Also check out Tracey Skepper’s distinctly sub-regions of Greenock and Gomersal. Victoria McClurg has made a name for funky Ballycroft cheeses farm-made with 72 delicious. delicious. 73 the guide. milk from her sister’s Holstien and Jersey herd. First stop, however, should always be Carême. As well as making pastry dough, 12. William and Claire Wood bake a dizzying tart selection that sells out fast. Vintners Shed (behind Vintners Bar & Grill), cnr 13. 14. 11. 10. Stockwell and Nuriootpa rds, Angaston. 15. 9. 16. where to stay Miners cottaGe 7. 8. 6. This cute two-room 1870s cottage has an 17. open fire, a marvellous little back verandah in a great bush setting and access to a rather 5. fine pool. From $180 per double per night. 1. Goldfields Rd, Cockatoo Valley, (08) 8524 6213 / 0419 806 262, minerscottage.com.au. 2. 18. 3. MistY rose Barossa chalets The name may suggest doilies and antique 4. Victorian dolls but these are actually six modern, self-contained units. They each boast great views over Barossa Valley from the bedroom, large spa bath and the lounge with its gas log fire. From $290 per double per night. Cnr Fuss Rd and Yaldara Dr, Lyndoch, 1800 990 055, mistyrose.com.au. Barossa Vista This three-bed, two-bathroom cottage on the edge of town has a designer interior with a distinctly Asian feel. Besides contemporary luxuries like i-Pod speakers and wireless access, there’s a stainess-steel kitchen and a large deck with views (over map key the caravan park) to distant hills. From $220 per double per night. 1b Murray St, 1918 Bistro & Grill ............................... 7 Lyndoch Bakery ................................... 2 Angaston, 0423 019 353, barossavista.com. Apex Bakery ........................................ 7 Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop ..................13 Appellation .........................................10 Miners Cottage .................................... 4 Barossa Farmers Market ...................15 Misty Rose Barossa Chalets ................ 3 Jellicoe house Barossa Valley Cheese Company .......16 Murdock Indulge ................................16 If you’re looking for somewhere blissfully Barossa Vines Cellar Door & Café ...... 5 . Murdock Wines ................................... 7 off the beaten track, then this beautifully . Barossa Vista ...................................... 6 Murray Street Vineyards ....................12 restored four-bed bluestone homestead in Blond Coffee & Store ........................... 7 Peter Lehmann Wines & Cellar Door .. 9 the middle of a vineyard is for you. Owner Café Y, Yaldara Estate Wines ............... 1 Rockford Wines ................................... 5 Charles Melton Wines ......................... 5 Ross Estate ......................................... 3 . Helen Adams has thought of everything, Country Cupboard Antiques ................ 7 Seppeltsfield Wines ...........................11 . from a fully equipped kitchen and pantry, Die Barossa Wurst Haus & Bakery ...... 7 Schulz Butchers .................................16 to a new copy of Maggie’s Harvest left Greenock Creek Tavern ......................12 The South Australian Company Store 16 illustration: PRISCILLA nIELSEn enticingly open by the stove. With her . Henschke ...........................................17 . Tanunda Club ...................................... 7 Angaston Appetizers range of platters, and Jellicoe House ....................................18 . Taste Eden Valley ...............................16 Keils Fine Food & Coffee ..................... 7 The Barossa Brewing Company .........12 the collection of her partner Simon’s Sorby Krondorf Road Café ............................. 5 The Tanunda Hotel .............................. 7 Adams wines (to buy at cellar door prices), Langmeil Winery ................................. 9 Torbreck .............................................10 you don’t even need to leave! From $250 Linke’s Central Meat Store .................14 Vintner’s Bar & Grill ...........................15 per room. Sawpit Gully Rd, Mt McKenzie via Angaston, (08) 8564 2741. d. 74 delicious.
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