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africa
Travel MAGAZINE
Global
Markets
for Morocco
Travel,Trade
and Tourism
Morocco World Edition
Africa Travel Magazine
I AM MO
Index
2-5 I am Morocco
6-9 Moroccan Handicrafts
10-13 Mountain & Desert Treks
14-15 Return to Mogador
16-19 Riads and Kasbahs
20-21 Sahara Ecotours
22-23 Medieval Schools
24-25 Berber Wedding
26-27 Berber Gites
28-31 Moroccan Vegetarian Menus
32-33 Moroccan Travel Market
34-35 Tourism Investment
36-37 Royal Air Maroc
38-39 Faces of Africa
40-64 Great Cities of Morocco
Discover Marrakech
Discover Casablanca
Discover Tangier
Discover Agadir
Discover Rabat
Discover Fez
Discover Meknes
and more ...
Africa Travel Magazine
OROCCO ...
I am Morocco, home of Africa’s oldest mon-
archy, consitutional in form, with an elected
parliament. I rank high on the list Africa’s
prime tourism destinations, generating over
2 billion per year in foreign currency. I am
located in Northern Africa, with coastlines
along the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean
Sea. I am a stable and democratic country
linking Sub-Saharan Africa and Western
Europe, separated by the Straits of Gibraltar,
a short ferry ride. In area I am slightly larger
than the state of California and the same
size as Iraq. I am bordered by Algeria to the
east, Spain to the north, three small Span-
ish enclaves and Mauritania to the south via
my Western Saharan territories. Most of my
south east area is in the Sahara Desert and as
such is generally sparsely populated
My status
I am a member of the Arab League, Arab
Maghreb Union, Francophonie, Organization
of the Islamic Conference, Mediterranean
Dialogue group, and Group of 77. I received
my independence from France in 1956. My
current population is more than 30 million.
My official language is Arabic, Berber dia-
lect - with French popular as the language
of business, government and diplomacy and
English widely spoken. My Ethnic groups are
as follows: Arab-Berber 99.1%, other 0.7%,
Jewish 0.2% My religions: Muslim 98.7%,
Christian 1.1%, Jewish 0.2%.
I am the third most populous Arab country,
after Egypt and Sudan. Most of my people
practice Sunni Islam and are of Berber, Arab
or mixed Arab-Berber stock.
Great Cities of Morocco
I am famous for my Imperial Cities. Casa-
blanca is my business and economic capital,
and has the Northern Africa’s largest seaport.
A modern autoroute connects Casablanca
with other major centers, and the railways
system is well advanced, with seamless ser-
vice to the Mohammed V International Air-
port, with over 6.2 million passengers
annually.
Continued on page 40
Africa Travel Magazine
I AM MOROCCO , FROM THE ATLANTIC OCEAN AND
From page
It is home base to RoyalAir Maroc, Jetyou,
Air Arabia Maroc and Regional Air Lines.
Rabat is my administrative capital - tradi-
tional yet modern and elegant, with wide
boulevards with trees, flowers, gardens and
luxurious boutiques. Small wonder they call
in the Garden City.
An exciting development currently un-
derway is a rapid light rail system linking
Rabat to its sister city of Sale.
Fés, the Imperial City, is my spiritual and
cultural center and original capital, dating
back to the 800s. Meknes is famous for
its picturesque and exotic souks (markets)
with colorful displays of foods, handicrafts
and textiles. Close by is the Roman City of
Volubilis, now a UNESCO World Heritage
site.
Marrakech has many historical sites as well
as exquisite shopping bazaars. Opportuni-
ties to experience luxurious palaces, exotic
kasbahs, museums, casinos, golf courses,
mountains, lush oases, and fabulous market-
places.
Other cities include Agadir, Essaouira, Fes,
Marrakech, Meknes, Mohammadia, Oujda,
Ouarzazat, Safi, Salè, Tangier and Tétouan.
My climate is Mediterranean, becoming
more extreme towards my mountainous
interior regions. My coastal plains are rich
and accordingly, they comprise the back-
bone for agriculture. Forests cover about
Africa Travel Magazine
MEDITERRANEAN SEA TO MOUNTAINS AND DESERT
12% of the land while arable land Mellal, Ben Slimane, Boulemane, Cadi Ayyad University,
accounts for 18%. 5% is irrigated. Casablanca*, Chaouen, El Marrakech
I am known for my wildlife biodi- Jadida, El Kelaa des Srarhna, Chouaib Doukkali University ,
versity, with birds representing the
Er Rachidia, Essaouira, Fes, El Jadida
most important fauna
Figuig, Guelmim, Ifrane, Kenitra, Hassan II Ain Chok University ,
I m an ethnically diverse country
with a rich culture and civilization, Khemisset, Khenifra, Khouribga, Casablanca
having hosted many people com- Laayoune, Larache, Marrakech, Hassan II Mohammedia Univer-
ing from East (Phoenicians, Car- Meknes, Nador, Ouarzazate, sity , Mohammedia
thaginians, Jews and Arabs), South Oujda, Rabat-Sale*, Safi, Settat, Hassan Premier University ,
(Sub-Saharan Africans) and North Sidi Kacem, Tanger, Tan-Tan, Settat
(Romans, Vandals, Andalusians (in- Taounate, Taroudannt, Tata, Taza, Ibn Tofail University ,
cluding Moors and Jews)). All those Tetouan, Tiznit . note: three ad- Kenitra
civilizations have had an impact on ditional provinces of Ad Dakhla Ibnou Zohr University , Agadir
my social structure. (Oued Eddahab), Boujdour, and Institute of Management and
I am any ally of the United States Es Smara as well as parts of Tan- Business Technology (IMBT)
via the Moroccan-American Treaty
Tan and Laayoune fall within Rabat
of Friendship, the oldest non-broken
Moroccan-claimed Mohamed Premier University ,
friendship treaty. It was negotiated
by Thomas Barclay and signed by Executive branch: Chief of state: Oujda
John Adams and Thomas Jefferson. King MOHAMED VI (since 23 Mohammed V University, Rabat
It has been in continuous effect July 1999), Mohammed V University
since 1787. Head of government: Prime Min- Agdal, Rabat
Portuguese efforts to invade and ister ___. Mohammed V University
control the Atlantic coast in the Education is free and compulsory Souissi, Rabat
fifteenth century did not profoundly through primary school (age 15). Moulay Ismail University ,
affect the Mediterranean heart of List of universities in Morocco Meknès
Morocco. Many former Portuguese Main article: List of universities Sidi Mohamed Benabdellah Uni-
forts are integrated into my coastal in Morocco versity , Fes
cities.
Abdelmalek Essaâdi University , University of Al Karaouine,
With my capital at Rabat, there Fes
Tétouan - Tanger
are 37 provinces and 2 wilayas; Université Moulay Slimane (for-
Al Akhawayn University,
Agadir, Al Hoceima, Azilal, Beni merly called Cadi Ayyad Univer
Ifrane
Africa Travel Magazine
by Habeeb Salloum
In this rushed 20th century there
are not many of us who know
that in Morocco there still ex-
ists a medieval world of crafts-
men who are creating, with
their hands, masterpieces of art.
Incorporating a synthesis of the
Libyco-Berber, Mediterranean,
Middle Eastern, African and An-
dalusian artistic traditions, these
artisans have a long and honored
history.
Whole families, century after-
century, handing down the trades
from father to sons, have kept
Motional fee based on number of
nights. Prices and dates for each
of the tours are subject to change
based on total number of partici-
pants. Photo (above right) Rabat,
Mor.rocco’s artistic traditions
alive. The families know-how,
always open to contributions
from the outside world, are con-
stantly improved without deviat-
ing from tradition. New ideas
are assimilated, brewed, melted,
then re-created to become genu-
ine Moroccan art.
These craftsmen who, in our
time, compete with modern
mechanical technology, are able
to survive and, in fact, prosper.
Unbelievably, these Moroccan
skilled workmen, unlike their
brethren in other parts of the
world, have fought against the
machines of the modern age and
have not lost the battle. With
skills inherited from their fa-
Photos: Left- Craftsman at ITB Ber-
line, 2009. Right- ornate lamp at Atlas
Hotel,, Essaouira, a Royal Air Marox\
property.
Africa Travel Magazine
The Splendid Handicrafts of Morocco
frames and countless other ar- arabesque designs and intricate
thers, they produce, today, some
ticles were being decorated with floral motifs are produced with
of the finest handmade products
sumptuous motifs comprising hands inheriting the skills of
in the world.
geometric designs, arabesques centuries.
If one wishes to be transported
and stylized flowers or stars. Candelabra and lanterns with
to a world of ancient oriental
The artistry of these Moroc- green, red and yellow glass in-
splendor, Fez el-Bali or the old
can craftsmen was dazzling and serts are in demand by the many
section of Fez is the place to visit.
breathtaking. However, this visitors Morocco hosts annually.
Within its walls no automobile
should not have come as a sur- Numerous restaurants and night-
is allowed to enter and, as it was
prise since the ancestors of these clubs make use of them to create
in the medieval ages, all work is
leather artisans have been world- for their clients a relaxed aura.
carried on by man or donkey. The
renowned hundreds of years. In The colored lights project to the
craftsmen, like their forefathers in
the Middle Ages Moroccan leath- customers an haunting and ro-
the days when Moorish Spain and
er was so famous that the best mantic atmosphere.
Morocco were one, still turn out
leather of that time and Moroccan Artistry in Lighting
superb handmade articles which
were synonymous terms. In Morocco, a room lit with
dazzle the onlooker.
Brass and Copper colored lanterns is always com-
In the same way as they have
Next to leather products, the plemented with attractive hand-
been for hundreds of years, these
craftsmen of Fez and Marrakesh made carpets. The oldest of that
artisans are grouped in numerous
are world famous for their brass country*s handicrafts, they come
streets specializing in different
and copper utensils. In the shops in basically two types: rural and
crafts. Fascinating to any visitor,
and homes, gleaming brass and urban. However, these are di-
the souks not only in Fez but also
copperware entice the tourist vided into a wide range of many
in the other cities of Morocco, ap-
and Moroccan alike. Trays in all styles.
pear to come straight out of The
sizes, ashtrays, braziers, incense World Famous Carpets
Arabian Nights.
burners, door knockers, kettles, Rural carpets, known as Berber
Artistry in Fine Leather
sugar boxes, teapots and other carpets, are the oldest type and
I will never forget the first time I
articles decorated with interlacing the most common. Some
walked down into the heart
of the medieval part of Fez have very thick woolen
and saw artisans working piles while others have
amid shops displaying their short goat or camel hair
colorfully embossed ar- piles. In almost all cases,
ticles of leather. they reflect the colors of
Green, red, violet, white the landscapes where they
and yelow, marvelously are made. Hence, they
treated by that city*s cel- come mostly in beige,
ebrated tanners and dyers, brown and tan with a few
leather was being gilded in black, red and white.
and transformed into doz- Some have designs recall-
ens of products. Book cov- ing prehistoric inscriptions
ers, wallets and purses in while others have geomet-
all shapes and forms, desk ric compositions made up
sets, belts, hassocks, photo of lozenges, arrows and
Africa Travel Magazine
saw-tooth lines. In Fez, the crafts-
Urban carpets are a men are well
newer type of rug. known for their
They were only skill in decorating
introduced from the all types of struc-
East into Morocco tures with cedar
in the 18th century. wood, which is
Rabat and Sale be- abundant in the
came the production nearby forests.
centers of these rich Ceilings, doors
carpets. Tradition- and windows
ally, the urban carpets are made attrac-
have a harmony of tive with zouak,
seven colors and a a type of decor
multitude of designs. dominated by
Three bands of un- geometric fig-
equal width frame a ures. The city*s
rectangular field with artisans, as well
a star-shaped motif as those in neigh-
in the center. Bands boring Meknes,
of different colors in also specialize
geometric or floral in masharabiehs
designs encompass and geometric patterns. By using (screens made
these and, at each end, there is a thin veneers of the same wood of small pieces of cedar wood
kind of mihrab arch. Fine carpet in a checkered design, or with turned on a lathe and then assem-
experts indicate that these color- chevrons, stars and other forms bled in clever designs). Delicate
ful rugs bring to mind garden alternating with mother-of-pearl, and appealing these screens make
paths around a pool surrounded ebony and silver they bring out the windows of the traditional
by flowers and pet birds. the subtleties of the they wood. homes attractive.
In the homes of the wealthy in The saying that the wood crafts- Ceramics
Morocco the handmade rugs are men of the city combine and Alongside the inlaid articles are
usually associated with inlaid fur- harmonize their inlaying to sing a the ceramics which beautify,
niture and other wooden knick- song of beauty has much merit. besides the homes, fountains,
knacks usually made from they palaces, mosques and
wood (a type of oak). Es- public buildings. The
saouira, famous for its mar- tile-makers whose an-
quetry, is where many of these cestors made Andalusia
charming pieces of furniture, an earthly paradise still
desks, all kinds of tables, practice their trade in Fez
chests and jewelry boxes are and Meknes. Through-
made. out Morocco, tiled green
Artistry in Woodwork roofs harmonizing with
The city’s skilled artisans the surrounding greenery
polish the hard they to a satin and breathtaking tiled
finish, then inlay it with cedar, blue, turquoise, white and
lemon wood, ebony, mother- yellow patios, rooms and
of-pearl and silver in floral hallways are all the handi-
Africa Travel Magazine
work of these master craftsmen.
For the preparation of their food
the Moroccans, in the main,
employ glazed red or brown
pottery. However, enameled
ornamental pottery made in Fez,
Meknes, Sale and Safi are pro-
duced with the finesse of Italian
or Spanish wares. Amphoras,
dishes, jars, pots and vases are
decorated mainly with cobalt
blue on an enamel background.
Cross-stitch designs, interlaced
curves, polygonal stars and geo-
metric or floral designs are then
applied in black to these colorful
utensils. In addition, in Safi, ce-
ramic artisans produce in darker
colors the metallic sheen found
in Malaga pottery which itself
was initiated by the Arabs.
In all aspects of the handiwork
industries, nothing is created
hastily. The taste for the su-
perb, along with the passage
of time has created perfection.
For export, the production of
handicrafts is strictly regulated
by the Moroccan government
which allows only the topnotch
products to be exported outside
the country. In the country itself,
the cooperative shops Coopartim
sell handmade goods of guaran-
teed quality at reasonable prices.
Hence, a visitor need not worry
about bargaining if he/she is not
inclined.
Nevertheless, whether sold in
these regulated stores, in the tra-
ditional shops, or laid out on the
sidewalks or on the bare ground
Photos: From top left- (1) Metal
sculptures of Gnaoua musicians,
Atlas Hotel, Essaouira. Moroccan
crafts at ITB Berlin (3) Leather
handbags, souk, Essaouira.
Africa Travel Magazine
MOROCCO: FROM MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS T
Story and photos by It was a fabulous beginning city’s enchanting medieval pal-
Habeeb Salloum for the trip we intended to take aces and skilled craftsmen when
across the Atlas Mountains to the suddenly, the voice of Abdelatif,
Thanks to the Africa Travel land of kasbahs (mud castles) and magnified by our small auto bus’s
Association’s 6th Cultural and deserts. microphone, boomed, “During
Ecotourism Symposium in Fez, Fez, with its air of the Arabian this journey, we will see some of
Morocco during the Interna- Nights, was still on my mind the most magnificent scenery in
tional Year of Ecotourism, as our tour the world. It will
our ATA web site is receiving group of five, be a journey of
a flood of e-mail requests for along with make-believe”.
information on the historic host Abdelatif, A lady next to
city. The following article by our guide, me snickered,
Habeeb Salloum captures the traveled “He’s like all
magic of Fez and its surround- through the the other guides,
ing area thanks to the writer’s foothills of always exagger-
professional style. the Atlas ating.” “We will
For two days we had explored Mountains see!”, I thought
Fez, Morocco’s historic city, towards the to myself as we
glorifying in its ancient section desert fron- drove through a
which remains enclosed within tier town green fertile val-
its ancient ramparts. Inside no of Erfoud, ley, covered with
auto is allowed. Only donkeys some 480 olive trees, many
contest with humans the few km ( 298 mi) newly planted,
feet wide medieval streets. away. I was set in the midst
Seemingly, we had traveled still dream- of sprouting
back a thousand years in time. ing of the wheat fields.
0
Africa Travel Magazine
TO ROMANTIC KASBAHS AND DESERTS
After about a 40 km (24 mi) privately built Al-Akhawayn Uni- a calm and friendly atmosphere.
drive, we turned and began to versity , specializing in foreign Besides being a rest stopover,
travel upward on a road edged language training. travelers come to this town to vis-
by stately maple trees, into the Downward, we drove through it the nearby convent of Kasbah
Middle Atlas Mountains. Further oak forests until, on the outskirts Myriem - a nunnery staffed by a
away, small apple orchards and of Azrou, we turned upward. A handful of European nuns who
patches of pine trees, increasing short drive and the oak forests make their living selling carpets.
as we moved along, dotted the were soon inter-mixed with the We stopped to refresh ourselves
slope of the hills. Past the 1,220 majestic cedar. However, this at the Kasbah Hotel Restaurant
m (4,000 ft) high red-roofed all-encompassing greenery was Asmaa - a traditional kasbah-
resort town of Imeuzzer der followed by a barren countryside style building whose interior is
Kandar, we passed through an - the home of shepherds and their beautified by fountains and tiles
oak forest, then barren land until flocks. We drove through this in traditional Moroccan fashion.
we entered the attractive 1,650 arid Middle Atlas landscape, in Soon thereafter, we were driv-
m (5,412 ft) high skiing town of the shadows of the snow-capped ing in the barren High Atlas until
Ifrane with its red-sloped roofs. peaks of the High Atlas Moun- we passed a spot 1,907 m (6,255
A modern and prosperous resort tains, until we stopped at Midelt ft) above sea level - the highest
town, it is labeled by travelers as - a town of 70,000, located at point we were to reach during our
the ‘Switzerland of Morocco’. the entrance to the Berber region journey. From this high pass, the
Located 60 km (37 mi) from Fez, in Morocco - 200 km (124 mi) road wound its way downward
this European-looking town is southeast of Fez. through an arid landscape until
snow-bound in winter and ideal Situated between the Middle and we reached the Ziz River - a thin
for skiing. It is the playground of High Atlas Mountains, 1,525 m line of greenery in an otherwise
the rich - the place where afflu- (5,000 ft) above sea level, this barren countryside.
ent Moroccans build their second windswept town, an important Habeeb Salloum (continued)
home. Ifrane is also noted for the center for local carpets, defuses
Africa Travel Magazine
Habeeb Salloum. From page 7 Once known as Kasr es Souk, ocean and sea creatures from
its name was changed in 1979 that era are found in abundance,
At places, the road wound its to honor Moulay Rachid, father fossilized in the local rock forma-
wayhigh above the river, then of Morocco’s ruling Alaouite tions. A thriving tourist indus-
suddenly it would descend to the dynasty. Built at the crossroads try has been established by the
water’s edge where vegetables of the main caravan routes to the fashioning into works of art these
thrive under olive, palm and Dadés Valley and the Tafilalet fossilized creatures of the sea and
many other type of trees. The area, Errachida us by the beauty the manufacture of black marble
scene brought to mind the words of its kasbak-like structures, found in the area
of the poet-astronomer Omar seemingly all newly built. A city The last town in Morocco to
Khayam, “Between the desert of some 200,000, with agriculture be occupied by the French who
and the sown.” the main source of revenue, it ap- thereafter made it into a military
After passing a dam on the Ziz peared attractive and had an air of outpost, Erfoud is a typical tourist
River, which supplies the nearby prosperity. destination. A bustling place of
city of Errachida with drinking From Errachida, the highway some 40,000, its dusty streets, all
water, we entered that town - continued to hug the Ziz River, year round, are usually filled with
some 400 km (248 mi) from Fez. forming the largest valley oasis in travelers from the four corners
Morocco. The of the world, coming to examine
whole valley is its fossils and exploring it’s sand
covered with dunes. This is especially true
aspin trees when the annual Date Festival is
and date palm. held in October.
This shimmer- October had long gone when we
ing field of landed in Erfoud, but there was
green stayed still much to do in and around
with us until that desert town. After resting
we reached the that night in our kasbah-like
desert town hotel, the next day we set out
of Erfoud, for nearby Rissani where the Ziz
saturated with River disappears into the desert.
modern build- Just before entering that town,
ings, built in we stopped at the spot where the
replicas of the now almost disappeared historic
ancient kas- city of Sijilmassa once stood.
bahs - huge Erected in 757 A.D., it was the
fortress struc- first true Muslim city in North
tures, once Africa. Subsequently, it became
castle-homes a major staging post on the trans-
of emirs, tribal Saharan caravan route, especially
chiefs and in the trading of salt. It once had
government a population of 100,000 and was
officials. the capital of the Tafilalt region.
Some 350 Today, only the desert wind and
million years blowing sand swirl around the
ago the region little of what remains of Sijil-
around Erfoud massa.
was a huge In a few minutes we passed the
Africa Travel Magazine
town’s gate and entered Rissani, that Hilary’s grandfather, a Mo- the law.
a town of 30,000. Strangely, the roccan Jew living in Rissani, 6) Tips are expected for every
setting of the town and its en- married an American woman, service - always carry small
virons along the Ziz River with then immigrated to the U.S.A. He change.
heavily populated villages, seem- went on, “You know that Hilary 7) Bargain for all tourist items
ingly living in the past, its canals, visited her grandfather’s home in - never shop with a guide - his
building styles and the nature of Rissani and along with our king’s commission is usually about
its inhabitants, have often re- sister Lalla Myriem visited the 30%.
minded travelers of the villages Mausoleum of Moulay Ali Chérif 8) At night, avoid dark alleyways.
edging the Nile in Egypt. - forbidden to non-Muslims.” He Morocco is safer than many other
Just inside the city gates, we continued, “At the same time, she countries, but muggers still stalk
stopped at a tiny museum where also visited her sister’s daughter the lonely streets.
we examined artifacts found in who is married to a Berber tour- 9) When in Erfoud, for a breath-
Sijilmassa. We then moved on to ist guide and lives in the Atlas taking taste of the desert, one
visit the Mausoleum of Moulay Mountains.” I looked at Muham- should make a trip to Merzouga,
Ali Chérif, ancestor of Moulay el mad in disbelief. Was he telling an oasis near the Algerian border
Rachid, the founder of the pres- the truth? I had no idea! But it surrounded by sand dunes - some
ent ruling Alaouite dynasty. A was an interesting story which more than 50 m 164 ft) high. The
colorful authentic Berber market capped our thrilling mountain oasis’s lake is a favorite spot for
was our next stop after which we journey to the land of kasbahs migrating birds, especially in
drove to the Kasbah of Moulay and desert. February and March, when the
Ismail - a tiny town inside the Dayet Srji flamingos appear. On
city walls. Here, we spent some Facts About Morocco: the other hand, if traveling the
time examining beautiful rugs for (1) Nationals of most countries desert is on one’s mind, trips to
sale in converted old homes. do not need visas to enter Mo- the desert can be arranged by tour
Back in Erfoud, while my travel- rocco- only valid passports. companies in Erfoud.
ing companions left to view the 2) If you know French, its is easy 10) Two good places to stay in
spectacular sunset over some to get around in Morocco. Every- Erfoud: Hotel Salem - a 4 star
of the highest sand dunes in one speaks French, but many also abode - from $56. To $80. A
the world, I explored the town. know English. room; Hotel Ziz, an excellent 3
Tired, I sat down on a bench by 3) Unit of currency in Morocco star abode located in the heart
a well-dressed young man and is the dirham which fluctuates at of town - $34. a room.Note: All
introduced myself. Soon my new around 10 to 12 to a dollar. Ex- prices quoted are in U.S. dollars.
found companion, Muhammad, change money at banks or hotels For Further information, Contact:
and myself were talking together - rates are all the same with no Moroccan National Tourist
in a friendly fashion. commission. Office: Suite 1460, 2001 rue Uni-
When he found out that I would 4) When traveling in Morocco, versité, Montreal, Quebec, Can-
be writing an article about the Er- trains are the most comfortable. ada H3A 2A6. Tel: +1 514 842
foud region, Muhammad asked, Buses are inexpensive - CTM the 8111/2. Fax: +1 514 842 5316.
“Did you know that Hilary Clin- best. Small autos, with unlimited Moroccan Tourist Office: 20 East
ton is from here?” Taken aback, mileage and fully insured, rent 46th St., Suite 1201, New York,
I looked at him in astonishment, for about $50. a day, fully in- NY 10017, U.S.A. Tel.: 212-557-
“Hilary Clinton from here! You sured. 2520. Fax: 212-949-8148. Web
must be kidding!” He smiled, 5) The mass of hustlers which Site: http://www.tourism-in-mo-
“Haven’t you heard about her once infested the tourist spots rocco.com/
Moroccan origin?’ in Morocco have been greatly
Muhammad went on to explain diminished by the strong arm of Habeeb Salloum
Africa Travel Magazine
HAPPY RETURNS TO MOGADOR FOR FESTIVAL D’
By Jerry W. Bird Known as the “windy city,” Essaouira is and their clients.
It’s been seven long years Morocco’s wind-surfing capital, where We are enjoying a nautical view of Es-
since we first toured Mo- the sky is ablaze with multi colored saouira’s historic seaport, once known as
rocco with the Ministry kites from dawn to dusk every day. Mogador, from our dockside table at “ Chez
of Tourism as part of the Flashback 2002 Sam. ”Highly recommended by locals in the
Here we are, basking in the noonday sun on know, this charming waterfront restaurant is
ATA media team. This
North Africa’s Atlantic Coast at Essaouira, surrounded by fishing boats and marine activ-
time, our purpose is to set
Morocco, following a journey of discovery ity. Men repairing fish-nets, shucking shrimp
up Africa Travel Maga- and sorting sardines, looming skeletons of
which began in the Imperial City of Fès and
zine’s first office in Africa, here at boats under construction add to the scene.
continued via Rabat, Casablanca and Mar-
Essaouira, a beautiful Atlantic Coast rakech. In a few days, we will drive south The interior of Chez Sam reminds me of
city, once known as Mogador. A world- to the resort city of Agadir, with its luxury Trader Vic’s, once a popular hang-out in our
class golf course development, with beach front hotels and lavish casinos, cater- home port of Vancouver, and Ivar’s in Seat-
multi-star hotels is underway and many ing to the jet set of Europe, Africa and Mid- tle. The fresh seafood, decor and atmosphere
other attractions are on the horizon. dle East. Most North Americans have yet are magnificent and the impressive gallery of
Since arriving from Paris on Royal Air to really discover Morocco’s coastal resort celebrity photos; Louis ‘Satchmo’ Armstrong,
cities - and that’s a prime opportunity for Stevie Wonder and others, attests to the fact
Maroc, we have visited Rabat, with
our magazine, read by travel professionals that the owner comes from the world of jazz.
brief stops at Safi and Al Jaddida, spent
Sam and his huge, jet black dog Nikita joined
two days in Casablanca and another our table a few days later, and thanks to that
in Marrakech, meeting old friends and rendezvous, I was able to learn the history of
new. Some of our positive impressions this outstanding restaurateur and the origin
were a new Autoroute, with divided of the Essaouira (Mogador) seaport’s most
highway and the start of a Tramway popular eatery.
system in Rabat. Muguette’s brother, Freshness is the order of the day, every day
Maurice Goufrani of the Pompidou at Chez Sam and also at the many outdoor
Centre in Paris, asked us to make sure stalls, perched side-by-side along the dock
area. Each offers visitors fresh caught
we covered Festival Gnaoua ( Gnawa)
products from the sea to the table and each
Essouira, a unique musical experience,
competes vigorously with its neighbour
June 24-29, 2009. This event is high on for our attention. Barkers, menu boards
our agenda and is in the Venues World and tempting displays of fresh catch from
Edition, now available for download at the Atlantic is their marketing approach. I
www.africa-ata.org/venues.pdf/ enjoyed a generous portion of sole fillet and
Africa Travel Magazine
’ESSAOUIRA GNAOUA, A MUSICAL BANQUET
fresh salad for less than five dollars U.S. My the weather is as balmy as any spring We then moved to the hotel’s beach side
two colleagues split a large crab for a similar afternoon, and the buyers and browsers restaurant, where the music was going full
tab. Overhead a flotilla of sea gulls was are out in force, filling the Medina with its tilt. One of local girls modeled Muguette’s
dipping and diving against a background of dozens of shops and stalls. We found an bottle- green gown with shoulder wrap- one
crashing whitecaps, rocky outcrops and rug- excellent Cyber Cafe right by the entrance of several gifts we received from our friend
ged remnants of the centuries old Portuguese and are getting our dozens of e-mail letters and former Tourism Minister, Hon. Sylla
fort that marks the city’s place in history. ready to send around the world. It’s a great Diakite of Conakry, Guinea. The Moroccan
Some call this the “city of winds ... and when way to stay in touch, which is why we al- Khaftan fashion segment of the evening
we visited Essaouira earlier this same week, ways carry our ‘portable office - a reliable proved highly popular.
a minor storm was brewing. Gusts swept the Macintosh laptop computer. Doors of Hospitality
area clear of surfers, bathers, wanderers and Arabian Nights On New Years Another friendly, convenient place to meet
beachcombers. A few lonesome camel driv- Eve in Morocco is the Hotel des Isles. Next to the Medina
ers still tended their stalls near the far end One of my favorite meeting places in and offers a full range of services. Since we
of the crescent shaped beach, and the waves Essaouira is the 5-star Sofitel Mogador, spent almost two weeks in the immediate
grew even more fierce as they pounded the located on the main promenade facing the area, we are pleased to recommend a stay
shore. But today, near the end of December, beach. Here’s where we spent one of the in Essaouira to any traveler looking for
most enjoyable New Year’s something different. Photos courtesy: Thi-
Eve celebrations in years. erry Mareschal and the Essaouira Cultural
It started with an invitation Center.
to a Fashion Show, which
continued into the wee Mistral Travel Ltd.
hours. For starters, the ho- A tourist transport company for Travel
tel’s dining room staff were Agents sending clients to Morocco. New
all decked like Aladdin (of Toyota Land-Cruisers, latest model Ford
the lamp), and the entire Transit 14 seat Mini-Buses, 32/46 Coaches.
ballroom looked like a Tours and accommodation arranged also
scene from Arabian Nights, Airport Transfers. Business clients wel-
complete with belly danc- comed.Contact us for your requirements.
ers, mariachis with their Tel/Fax: (00 212) (0) 44476129
Spanish guitars, Magicians E-Mail: mistral@yahoo.co.uk
and special visual and Web Site: www.mistraltravel .com
musical effects. The entire George David Cook, Directeur, Essaouira,
evening was unforgettable. Maroc .
Tel/fax 212 0444 76129.
Africa Travel Magazine
SCENES OF MOROCCO’S ATLANTIC COAST LIFESTYLE: THE HARBOR
From our magazine’s Africa headquarters office at Es- Atlantic Coast. It’s a photographer’s delight with and
souira our editors have an opportunity to explore this interesting kaleidoscope of activities - seagulls fight-
city so rich in culture, from its art galleries and strolling ing for scraps, fishermen mending their nets, workmen
musicians to the dawn to dusk activity at the medina and applying coats of paint to the hulls of fishing craft. On
adjoining harbor - one of he best anchorages on Africa’s this warm, sunny day in mid October the weather was
Africa Travel Magazine
AT ESSAOUIRA RETAINS THE MAGICAL SPIRIT OF OLD MOGADOR
the best we’ve experienced since Small wonder Essouira is called the this area the beach for Marrakech,
summer, however with the power- wind-surfing capital of Morocco. but in return, families from Essouira
ful trade winds and current from the We often meet groups of people often drive to Marrakech for upscale
Canary Islands, you can expect a from Marrakech which is only a few shopping in its many stores.
refreshing breeze most of the year. hours away by car. Many consider Continued on page 52.
Africa Travel Magazine
Behold what treasures African Lifestyles
await in the heart of a
typical Moroccan Medina.
THE RIADS OF
by Muguette Goufrani
Homes of Character
These traditional homes
of Morocco, which many
referred to as riads,
villas, dars, kasbahs or
guest homes, range from
the simplest structures
to the most sumptuous,
luxurious palaces. Legendary
comparisons are made to the Garden of Eden,
with its fruit- laden trees, or a treasure-filled
hideaway from A Thousand and One Nights.
Cascading waterfalls, inner fountains with
roses petals and bird baths, interior and rooftop
tented patios, refreshing sauna-like hammams
- you will find all of this and much more.
Many riads are showpieces of Moroccan
architecture and culture, a constant challenge
to innovative decorators attracted by the
opportunity to renovate and improve, with
amazing transformations from ugly ducklings
to graceful swans. While the concept is the
same, each riad is unique in its own way,
as in the hands and eyes of the owner or
designer. Africa Travel Magazine’s editorial
team never tires of visiting a riad, whether
it be in the heart of a médina, a desert oasis
or a retreat high in the Atlas Mountains. In
our first Morocco edition, Habeeb Salloum
describes the experience this way, “We stopped
to refresh ourselves at the Kasbah Hotel
Restaurant Asmaa - a traditional kasbah-
style building whose interior is beautified by
fountains and tiles in traditional Moroccan
fashion. Soon thereafter, we were driving in
the barren High Atlas until we passed a spot
1,907 m (6,255 ft) above sea level - the highest
point we were to reach during our journey.
From this high pass, the road wound its way
downward through an arid landscape until we
reached the Ziz River - a thin line of greenery
in an otherwise barren countryside.
At places, the road wound its way high above
the river, then suddenly it would descend to the
water’s edge where vegetables thrive under
olive, palm and many other type of trees. The
scene brought to mind the words of the poet-
astronomer Omar Khayam, “Between the
desert and the sown.”
Africa Travel Magazine
F MOROCCO. VIVE LA DIFFERENCE!
How it started Médina. My brother Maurice Goufrani infested the tourist spots in Morocco have
The idea for our World Edition supplement of the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris been greatly diminished by the strong arm
on Moroccan homes and lifestyle was often stays when he visits the Essaouira of the law.
born in 1996 during the first Africa Travel Cultural Complex, or attends the popular 6) Tips are expected for every service -
Association (ATA) Conference held in Ganaoua Festival, a three day banquet of always carry small change.
this fascinating country. The venue was music. 7) Bargain for all tourist items - never shop
Marrakech and the focus was on Cultural Our current stay in Essaouira has given with a guide - his commission is usually
and Ecotourism. The stage was set in the Homes and Lifestyles project a giant about 30%.
2002, when myself, Editor Jerry Bird and leap forward. In recent months, we have 8) At night, avoid dark alleyways. Morocco
broadcaster Ogo Sow toured the major traveled the Atlantic Coast from Agadir is safer than many other countries, but
cities from Fez to Rabat, Casablanca, in the South, via Safi, Al Jaddida and muggers still stalk the lonely streets.
Essaouira and Marrakech. One of the Casablanca to beyond Rabat. Other areas 9) When in Erfoud, for a breath-taking
highlights was our visit to several of are in our sights as we develop the Africa taste of the desert, one should make a trip
the boutique hotels, riads and luxury Travel Library through our series of World to Merzouga, an oasis near the Algerian
resorts, such as the Amanjena with its 32 Editions and supplements. border surrounded by sand dunes - some
Pavilions, six, two-storey maisons and the Living the Moroccan Lifestyle more than 50 m 164 ft) high. The oasis’s
Al-Hamra Maison, with its pools and oasis We are actually living in a riad. When my lake is a favorite spot for migrating birds,
of palms and olive trees in the foreground mother retired over a decade ago, she had especially in February and March, when the
and the High Atlas Mountains as a an architect friend design her a villa in the Dayet Srji flamingos appear. On the other
backdrop. Our editor has these comments traditional Moroccan style and during the hand, if traveling the desert is on one’s
interim the place has taken shape. Now mind, trips to the desert can be arranged by
that we have arrived to stay it will become tour companies in Erfoud.
the African base for our magazine and 10) Two good places to stay in Erfoud:
growing library of magazines, books and Hotel Salem - a 4 star abode - from $56. To
media resources. At the moment we are $80. A room; Hotel Ziz, an excellent 3 star
developing the garden area, which will be a abode located in the heart of town - $34. a
pleasant retreat, with additional shade trees, room.
flowers, birds and fish pools. The roof Note: All prices quoted are in U.S. dollars.
terrace has an outstanding view of the new This feature continues on the
world class golf course, with construction following page.
about Marrakech, “Where else are all the well underway - confounding the
walls and buildings tinted in a rich pastel skeptics who said it could not be done.
peach, the broad avenues and promenades Facts About Morocco:
lined with rows and rows of orange trees, Courtesy of Habeeb Salloum.
with ripe fruit dangling from their branches 1) Nationals of most countries do not
like holiday ornaments?” need visas to enter Morocco- only valid
Riads of Mogador passports.
We stayed an extra few weeks through New 2) If you know French, its is easy to get
Years at Essauoira, formerly Mogador. around in Morocco. Everyone speaks
Here we were treated to a visit of the French, but many also know English.
superb facilities and park-like grounds 3) Unit of currency in Morocco is the
at the elegant Dar Mimosas, situated dirham which fluctuates at around 10 to
a few miles south of the city. At the 12 to a dollar. Exchange money at banks
Médina, inside the walls of a centuries old or hotels - rates are all the same with no
Portuguese fortress, a variety of attractive commission.
riads offer fine food and accommodation. 4) When traveling in Morocco, trains
I was introduced to Les Terrasses are the most comfortable. Buses are
d’Essaouira, a luxurious riad which offers a inexpensive - CTM the best. Small autos,
scenic view of the bay. with unlimited mileage and fully insured,
One of our favorite stops while doing rent for about $50. a day, fully insured.
business or shopping is the Riad Al 5) The mass of hustlers which once
Africa Travel Magazine
THE RIADS OF MARRAKECH ARE EVERYTHING A
by Muguette Goufrani modern communities anywhere, decor, pools and oriental lounges,
with upscale shops, famous name spacious bed rooms, cosy fireplaces
While I was born in hotels, leafy parks and treed and luxury bathrooms. Want to
Morocco and began boulevards. enjoy the fresh air of Southern
my career there with Hidden Treasures Morocco and a bird’s eye view of
our family’s tour Within the Médina itself you will the exotic surroundings within the
company and Royal find several huge doors, which Médina? Each riad provides guests
Air Maroc, before like the entrance to Ali Baba’s with access to a roof terrace or
working my way cave, open up to reveal what North sundeck. How did we know about
around the world, my return as part Africans call a ‘riad.’ During a stop these two attractive riads? We spent
of the Africa Travel Association, has in Marrakech enroute to Casablanca, some time learning about them
been a true rediscovery. Marrakech we had the pleasure of staying from the general manager herself
was ATA’s host city for a Cultural at the Hotel Riad Shama, and - during our weeks at ITB Berlin
and Ecotourism Conference in visiting several and the Salon International
1996 and Fez had the same honors others including de Tourism in Paris. After
in 2002. As Morocco’s third the Hotel Riad checking in at the Hotel
largest city and a bustling center of Oasis. Both are Riad Shama, we took a
commerce, Marrakech is high on our operated by the walk through the souk,
list as an ideal convention site and same company a huge marketplace with
place to visit. The metropolitan area and each has its products and services of
comprises the Médina, a walled city unique attractions every description - and
built centuries ago as a fortification, - magical Arabian plenty of bargains awaiting
surrounded by one of the most architecture and your pleasure. Close by is
0
Africa Travel Magazine
FINE HOTEL SHOULD BE - AND MUCH MORE
Djemaa el Fna, one of the busiest design of these courtyard dwellings on the exterior clay or mud brick
market squares in Africa, with in the coastal regions of Morocco walls. Entrance to these houses is
snake charmers, acrobats, story- were an adaptation and modification a major transitional experience and
tellers, dancers, and musicians. of the Roman villa. When the encourages reflection because all
By night, the square turns into an Almoravids conquered Spain in of the rooms open into the central
open-air restaurant where traditional the 11th century they sent Muslim, atrium space. In the central garden
Moroccan dishes, such as cous cous Christian and Jewish artisans from of traditional riads there are often
and tangine are on the menu. Spain to Morocco to work on four orange or lemon trees and
What is a Riad? monuments. These artisans brought possibly a fountain. The walls of
A traditional Riad is a Moroccan with them the idea of arranging the riads are adorned with tadelakt
home or palace, the rooms of the house plaster and zellige tiles. The style
which often around the central open-air of these riads has changed over the
includes an interior courtyard that has become years, but the basic form is still used
garden. The today’s riads. The riads in designs today. Many riads are
ancient Roman were inward focused which now used as hotels or restaurants.
city of Volubilis, allowed for family privacy Photos from the Riad Shama are on
which we visited and protection from the the above page (left) and those from
in 2002, during weather in Morocco. This the Riad Oasis are on above page
our conference in inward focus was expressed (right). To find out more or to book
Fez, provides a in the central location of rooms for yourself or group at either
reference for the most of the interior gardens hotel, contact Muguette Goufrani by
beginnings of riad and courtyards and the e-mail: airhwy@smartt.com
architecture. The lack of large windows CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
Africa Travel Magazine
DESERT ECOTOURS WITH THE BLUE MEN OF MOROCCO INCLUDE
We first met Elena Hall during Merzouga is a poor village that few hours to 6 days into the sand
the Africa Travel Association’s has little or nooutside support dunes. Many of their guests are
Cultural and Ecotourism Sym- - so tourism is the main source inclined to slow down their pace
posium in the Im- and mingle with
perical City of Fez, the families, play
1992. Originally with the children
from the state of or watch local
Maryland, USA, women make
Elena has spent bread, tangine and
over 15 years cous-cous.
bringing visitors to Sharing with
Merzouga, a small Berbers
village in the Sahara Some guests will
Desert of southern offer advice to the
Morocco. Recently, Berber men on ag-
Elena and her part- riculture, modes of
ner Hmad Ourdaras, construction, well
a local Berber from digging and other
Merzouga, estab- skills. They are
lished the Haven La in a completely
Chance Desert Hotel different world in
to facilitate their many Ecotours. Southern Morocco.
Amenities include a restaurant, of income for residents. With the Elena and Hmad travel back and
camping, bivouac, camel excur- Blue Men of Morocco, visitors forth regularly from their base in
sions and a unique Sahara experi- spend several days or longer if Malaga, Spain and some of the
ence amidst the sand dunes and they wish, and can enjoy camel Ourdaras brothers manage the
palm trees. excursions in the desert from a business when the partners are
Africa Travel Magazine
LA CHANCE DESERT HOTEL AND EXCITING CAMEL EXCURSIONS
not in the Moroccan desert. Other Desert Hotel, which generates
brothers travel throughout Moroc- employment for locals. The
co on and expanded series of tours combination of skills, educa-
that may include the Imperial cit- tion and background of Elena
ies of Fez, Marrakech, Rabat, Me- and Hmad provides a reli-
knes and Casablanca, Essaouira, able, professional tour with no
Safi, El Jaddida and other fortified surprises. Close contact with
towns along the coast. The travel local Berbers and their way
includes the desert treks, moun- of life is a special extra to the
tain villages and kasbah routes. rest of the tours. It is important
Berbers are unique to make friends and provide
Elena has been accepted by the an unforgettable experience
local people who were originally which entices one to return to
into their homes to share meals
nomads but have decided to settle
and refreshing mint tea. Guests are Morocco.
down in the smaller villages.
also welcome at special feasts and Contact information:
Other nomads live in the desert BLUE MEN OF
weddings where they can watch
with their camels or goats and can
the rituals, and enjoy the meals like MOROCCO CO.
be seen during camel excursions. C/Heroes Dos de Mayo 5, H
part of the family.
Like many guides who keep in Fuengirola, Malaga, Spain
Elena Hall has great respect for
regular contact with tourists who Tel. 34 952 467562
these desert people, poor as they
travel to Morocco, Hmad speaks
may be. She and her partner try to www.haven-la-chance-desert-
several languages.
help the locals by bringing tourists hotel-merzouga.com
Berbers are not Arabic, although http://www.bluemenofmoroc-
to the area. They like to acquaint
most belong to the Muslim faith. co.com
guests with these special Berber
The Berber women are seldom
people, their humble food, and gen-
involved with tourists, but Hmad’s
erosity. Profits from tour operations
family and friends invite visitors
are invested in Haven La Chance
Africa Travel Magazine
The Medieval Schools
which is edged by a large room, meals, slept and studied. Their
Morocco’s Intellectual serving both as a lecture hall and lodgings, bread and drinking
Heritage a place for prayer. The student water were supplied free, but they
by Habeeb Salloum rooms or cells were mostly lo- had to buy their own books and
cated on the second level but, in most of their food. Hence, many
Called the “Holy City of Mo- a few of the schools, there were were compelled to work part-time
rocco‚“ Fez is, above all, noted a number on the first level. as lecturers in mosques or as ser-
for its Qarawiyin mosque - the The medersas were all exquisite vants in the homes of the affluent.
symbol of the country’s intel- works of art, decorated with The mother of all of Fez’s med-
lectual life and its most presti- carved wood, geometric designs ersas is Bou Inania, built in the
gious historic site. For more than and floral motifs and lace-like mid 14th century by Sultan Abu
eleven hundred years Inan, the first ruler of
it has been the haven the Marinid Dynasty.
for Islamic scholars Incorporating direct
and religious offi- importation of 14th
cials. Enhancing this century Andalusian
aura of learning are building techniques,
medersas (Islamic the school is different
schools) which dot than the other med-
the city and hug the ersas in that it had
Qarawiyin in a lov- an imposing minaret
ing embrace. In- and served both as a
spired by the schools mosque and a school.
in Baghdad, they Its doorways, col-
were, in the main, umns, courtyard and
built by the Marinid hall are all extrava-
sultans, during the gantly decorated with
14th century. As Is- dark cedar, exquisite-
lamic colleges with ly carved; floral and
lodgings for students geometrical patterns;
who came to study, delicate lace-like
besides religion, the stucco, toughened
Arabic language, with egg white;
astronomy, math- marble floors; and
ematics and medicine, they were plaster-work. Each one is a ceramic-tiled lower walls covered
unequaled, in their time, as places creation of perfect handiwork by in Arabic script with academic
of learning. The majority of these master craftsmen. messages - one reading, “This is
schools were built in the same Yet, in spite of the ostentatious a place of learning‚”. The whole
fashion. Each medersa had two splendor of the buildings, the inside is a stunning combination
levels and a central courtyard, students, living two in each of decorative artwork. However,
incorporating a fountain, used in cell-like room, led a frugal like the other medersas, its stu-
ritual ablutions. A colonnade or life. In these usually damp and dent cells are barren and forlorn.
gallery surrounded the courtyard dark rooms, they prepared their It is said that Sultan Abu Inan
Africa Travel Magazine
built the school to rival the city’s In fame, it comes second to Bou rine square (from the Arabic afar
grand Qarawiyin mosque and its Inania. Some claim it is more - brass) where craftsmen hammer
cost almost broke the treasury. beautiful and delicate, and more metal into huge urns and pots.
Because of the great expense, a perfect than that medersa. The medersa still houses some
story is told that the Sultan threw It is an incredible structure, with students and is only worth a visit
away the account books into the a profusion of fine pattering in if one has time to spare.
river saying, “A thing of beauty is blue and white tile, wood and Edging the medersa on the
beyond reckoning.” stucco. Verses from the Koran are square, stands a marble fountain,
Opposite Medersa Bou Inania, incised in continuous friezes and decorated with a carved fleurs-de-
but connected to this school, is are breath-taking in their intri- lis and one side of the Qarawiyin
a medieval water clock, consist- cacy. Even though some renova- mosque’s library - one of the
ing of 13 windows and platforms tion has been made, basically the most important libraries in the
- seven of which still retain their school is in an excellent state of Arab world.
brass bowls. High over them on a preservation. Without question, The newest of these medieval
carved lintel of cedar is a decay- its graceful proportions, elegant schools is Medersa El Cher-
ing row of 13 windows. Forgot- geometrical carved-cedar orna- ratin, built in the 17th century
ten for centuries, the clock is mentation and distinctive brass by the Alaouite Sultan, Moulay
being renovated and hopefully, in doors make it a living medieval el-Rachid, founder of the present
the future, experts will be able to work of art. Moroccan dynasty. Noted for its
have it working again. Medersa Shrij is the third finest double bronze-faced doors and
The grandest, most elaborate and of the Fez medersas. Erected in fine door knockers, it is much less
beautiful of all the Marinid mon- the 14th century, it was named ornate than the medersas built
uments, Bou Inania comes close after its beautiful ablution pool by the Marinids. However, as a
to perfection in every aspect of its (from the Arabic saharaj - pool). school it is much more function-
construction. It is the one historic Noted for its rich carvings and al. Designed to hold more than
site not to be missed by travel- its aura of calmness and tranquil- 200 students, it contrasts vividly
ers, in fact, it is the only structure ity, it is worth a visit. However, with the intricate craftsmanship
still in religious use which non- if one has visited Bou Inania and of the medersas erected during
Muslims can enter. Almost every El Attarine, this school does not the earlier Marinid era.
first-time tourist in Fez takes a have anything really new to offer. Rarely visited by travelers are
photo of Bou Inania’s green-tiled Medersa es Seffarine, con- the few remaining less important
minaret through the Boujeloud structed in the 13th century is the schools like Medersa Misbahiya,
Gate - the most utilized point of oldest medersa built in Fez. Un- now under renovation. Built in
entry into the old walled medi- like the other schools, it is built the 14th century by Sultan Abu
eval town into which no auto is like a traditional Fasi (Fez) home Hassan, it is noted for the lavish
allowed to enter. and gets its name from the Seffa- use of marble in its construction.
The Medersa El Atta- For visitors seeking histori-
rine, next door to the cal architectural gems, these
Qarawiyin mosque schools have few equals as
was built in the 14th relics from the medieval era.
century by the Mari- Yesterday, they drew stu-
nid Sultan Abu Said. dents from the whole Islamic
He built it on the lands; today they draw tour-
edge of the spice souk ists from the four corners of
- hence, its name, the world.
Attarine (from the
Arabic air (spices).
Africa Travel Magazine
by Muguette Goufrani
My father, who owned and oper-
ated a tour company in Casablan-
ca, Morocco for many years, took
me along with a German tour
group to visit a traditional “Wed-
ding Fair” at Hadiddou Imilchil, a
Berber village in southern Mo-
rocco. While I knew that many
Berber Fairs combine a local
Saint’s Day with a regional mar-
ket event, only at September’s
‘moussem’ (pilgrimage) of Im-
ilchil, have I seen such a colorful
pageant, with instant engagement,
and a mass exchange of marriage
vows. Berbers have inhabited
North Africa for centuries, some
being of Caucasian ancestry, with
fair complexions and blue eyes.
Visitors may think of Berbers as
exotic outsiders, yet they preced-
ed the Arabs in settling Morocco,
and they remain the country’s
main culture. This is expressed
by the phrase, “Morocco is Ber-
ber - the roots and the leaves of
freedom.”
While the Wedding Fair is key
part of Berber marital custom,
families usually arrange marriag-
es in their home village. Women
are free to divorce and remarry.
At the moussem, divorced and
widowed women form the ma-
jority, and are identified by their
pointed headdress. The courtship
is a family affair as I learned after
accepting an invitation to drink
mint tea in the goat hair tent of a
Berber elder. His oldest daughter
Malika, prettied up her divorced
18 year old sister Yasmina with
traditional beauty aids - rubbing
Africa Travel Magazine
Berber Wedding Fair at Imilchil
saffron colored powder into her the bride-to-be lend advice, often
Arab descent), whose ancestors
sister’s eyebrows, applying kohl making snap judgment calls at
built the mighty Moorish empire
to outline her eyes and carmine first sight. If rejection is signaled
that once ruled Spain, Portugal
rouged to her cheeks. A wool by a broken handclasp, it’s time
and most of Northern Africa.
cape, striped in tribal colors, to look elsewhere.
Most Berbers dwell in the moun-
covered her white dress; then When a bride does give consent,
tains, while the Arabs and Moors
a cone shaped headdress was she may speak the magic phrase,”
live on the plain and desert. Most
assembled, held on by loops You have captured my liver.”
cities have a European section
of spangled Since a healthy liver aids di-
a Jewish enclave, and a Medina
wool. gestion and promotes well-
(Arab-Moorish section). Over the
I gave Yas- being, in Berber culture it’s
past 3,000 years, its geographic
mina a silver the liver, not the heart that’s
location has given Morocco a
chain as a considered the location of
strategic importance far beyond
wedding gift, true love. Might one say,
its small size. The country has
since silver “Darling, my liver pines for
taken the best from the Phoeni-
brings good you?” Often snowbound be-
cians, Romans, Arabs, Berbers,
luck. Many hind village walls for up to
Portuguese, Spanish and French.
Westerners six months a year, the new
think that couples must learn to live
Letter from a reader
Moroccans in harmony. Despite those
purchase their wives at the fair, old Foreign Legion movies from
Dear Muguette,
but in truth, marriage depends the 50s, which showed Berbers
Since I read your article about
on mutual consent and family as being fierce, hot tempered and
Morocco, we took a group of
approval. warlike, they believe in “paix
African American Female edu-
A nod and a wink: The language chez eux” (peace at home).
cators there last year and had a
of gesture is as clearly under- Moroccan food
wonderful time. Hope to take a
stood by these people as the Who wouldn’t enjoy steamed
group again next year. Briefly, the
spoken word. By having a friend semolina, topped with a meat and
experience was wonderful. We
help him choose a bride (with vegetable sauce called couscous?
spent most of our time in Agadir
often no more than a silhouette Or tajines. a vegetable stew that
with a one night excursion to
and two dark eyes as a clue) the may contain rabbit, lamb, goat
Marrakech. We stayed at Club
groom gets overcomes his shy- and chicken meat, combined with
Valtur and the resort was great,
ness. All day long, in pairs, these prunes, apricots or raisins. Pas-
albeit very Italian. I didn’t learn
men weave in and out amongst a tilla (baked pigeon pie) is made
much about the people or culture
cluster of anxious brides. Then, of layered filo pastry, with nuts
of Morocco, hence the need for a
welcomed by a shy glance or a and spices, and coated with sugar.
second trip. However, I did make
quick nod, the suitor will stop to With your morning coffee, try a
a few friends (smile). Morocco is
speak to the lady, encouraged by light deep fried Spanish dough-
a fascinating if you love sensory
a signal from his friend’s reas- nut, we call sfinj, or cornes de
experiences or sensory overload!!
suring hand. gazelle pastries.
The experience started as soon as
Once this happens, the newly History and culture
we boarded the Royal Air Ma-
acquainted boy and girl unite, Most of the 27 million Moroc-
roc flight, and continued for the
holding hands as a sign of intent. cans are Berbers, Arabs or Moors
entire trip. I’ll never forget the
Male relatives who accompany (people of mixed Berber and
Africa Travel Magazine
Africa Travel Magazine
Night in the Berber Gites
by Karen Hoffman of their flat-roofed homes. Built to spend a night under the stars in
into the mountain slopes, these one of the many mountain sheep-
Our one-day adventure began house fit into each other. Al- folds (AZIB), but in winter it is
in Marrakech; an enchanting though the summit of this moun- advisable to pitch a tent.
walled city at the foot of the Atlas tain was Toubkal, at 4167m, our “The Great Trek Through the
Mountains. We drove about 48 destination was the tiny village of Moroccan Atlas”, a brochure
km into the mountain foothills to Aremd. As the group arrived, we distributed by the Moroccan
Imlil, a charming hamlet which were greeted with National Tourist Office,
was the starting point of our trek. a loud fanfare of is a detailed guide full
We were welcomed by the villag- Berber horns. of practical information,
ers with mint tea and a delicious On the terrace, we including local customs
array of Moroccan pastries. The were able to relax and the environment.
mountain guides gave a briefing and appreciate the This is an excellent
on the area, and on the culture dramatic mountain example of how govern-
and tradition of its inhabitants, panorama before ment tourist boards can
the Berbers (“Chleuhs”). Moroc- us. Rested, we encourage responsible
co is a land of mountains which were invited to tourism by reminding
cover an area of 100,000 square feast on a seem- visitors to respect the
kilometres. The High Atlas alone ingly endless environment and an-
cover more than 700 square ki- array of traditional cestral traditions of the
lometres, with a dozen summits dishes made of local population.
exceeding 4000m and more than couscous, lamb Luxurious antidote to
400 reaching 3000m. and chicken. Our adventure: A secretive
Trekking on foot and on skis “digestive”was the return trek to hideaway
are popular mountain sports in Imlil, once again taking in the In Palmeraie, a lovely suburb of
Morocco. The summits are eas- peaceful scenery and fresh moun- Marrakech, hidden in a park full
ily accessible, with a good net- tain air. of bougainvillea, rose bushes
work of mule tracks. The peaks For those unable to make the trek and jasmine, is an exquisite, new
are permanently snow-capped, on foot, Aremd is also accessible ‘Palais”. Completed a few years
but there is a mild climate with by four-wheel drive vehicles. And ago as a private residence, the
sunshine most of the year. But it for visitors who prefer a more owners recently decided to open
is the opportunity to explore less challenging mountain experience, it to guests as an exclusive villa
frequented areas and interact with you can arrange overnight treks, and “hideaway”
an extremely hospitable local staying in one of three types of The architecture, a magnificent
population that make the Atlas accommodation: mountain inns, blend of Greco-Roman and ori-
particularly attractive to hikers. mountain refuges (cabins built ental styles, maximizes the use
Our trek was an easy 60-90 by the French) and Gites, over- of natural light. A double row of
minute hike up a winding path night stays in the homes of local majestic columns, together with
which we shared with cargo-bear- people. Many GITES are classi- the five guest rooms and two
ing mules. Each turn revealed fied according to the amenities suites, gracefully form a semi-
a breathtaking vista. One could and facilities available (toilets, circle around the Hollywood-
only envy the views enjoyed by running water, shower, bedrooms, style swimming pool.
these villagers from the terraces kitchen terrace) Another option is Already discovered by jet-set
Africa Travel Magazine
MOROCCO’S come and gone. Phoenicians, ley are blended with the spices:
Greeks, Romans, Arab’s, Span- aniseed, cayenne, cinnamon,
ish Muslims, and the Berbers, the cumin, ginger, paprika, pep-
per, saffron, turmeric and ras
VEGETABLE
original inhabitants of the coun-
try, all had their day. They ruled el-hanout (a blend of spices) to
the country for awhile then faded produce mouth-watering dishes.
into history. Their cuisines, with a To give these non-meat creations
FOODS
touch of Portuguese, Turkish and even more zest, onions, olives,
Jewish influences, helped in the pickled lemons, almonds and
creation of the modern Moroccan. sesame seeds are utilized exten-
by Habeeb Salloum sively.
Well-known culinary experts
have written that great food and Soups, the mainstay of the poorer
No one who has enjoyed cous- peasants and at times their only
glorious civilizations complement
cous, the national dish of Mo- meal of the day, are based mostly
each other. They go on to say that
rocco, in all its meat varieties, on chickpeas and lentils. Infused
what creates a noteworthy cuisine
will dream that in many peas- with herbs and spices, they be-
are: abundance of ingredients;
ant homes this delicacy come delightful creations. The
outside influ-
is prepared solely from most widely prepared of these
ences; a noble
vegetables and semolina. soups is harira - the ultimate of
civilization;
These toilers of the soil Moroccan soups. In the cities, the
and refined
who never taste meat for wealthy, in addition to the veg-
palace life.
weeks at a time prepare, etables, utilize all types of meat
Hence, in the
not only their couscous, to create their mouth-watering
elegant palaces
but almost all their dishes hariras. Yet, the peasants’ meat-
of the rich in
from grain and veg- less hariras are a match for any of
Fez and Mar-
etables. With the right these soups..
rakesh where
amount of herbs and spic- Moroccan salads differ to some
the great Arab-
es they create incredibly extent from the usual well-known
Islamic civili-
tasty meals, forming an salads. They are, in most cases,
zation of Spain had its greatest
important part of the Moroccan prepared from cooked vegetables
impact, the culinary art of Moroc-
kitchen - a cuisine with an illus- and are somewhat zesty but not
co reached its epitome of perfec-
trious history. A great number of spicy hot. In the homes of the
tion. Paula Wolfert in her book,
the Moroccans firmly believe that affluent, they are served at the
Couscous and the Other Good
no other country’s culinary art beginning of the meal as appetiz-
Foods From Morocco, writes that
has reached the exalted heights ers. However, for the poor, like
Moroccan cooking is the last of
of their cooking. A number of the soups, they are usually the
the great undiscovered cuisines.
travellers support this assess- main course.
Included in this relatively un-
ment, stating that if the food of As to stews, the Moroccan
known kitchen with a distin-
this North African country is not kitchen would be much poorer
guished past are the tasty dishes
the greatest in the world, it stands without the delectable vegetable
of the workers and peasants. In
near the top as one of the world’s tajines. Fragrant, zesty, spicy or
their daily Menues, little meat
eminent cuisines. sweet, they are always delicious
is utilized. The grains and veg-
Ethnic Variety and inviting. Simmered to pro-
etables are combined with numer-
In that spellbinding land with its duce tasty sauces, their enticing
ous herbs and spices to produce
long sandy coasts, rich plains, aromas, as they cook, makes even
savory and satisfying meals.
towering mountains , and endless the one who has just eaten yearn
The herbs: chervil, garlic, fresh
deserts, many civilizations have to sample the simmering dish.
coriander leaves, mint and pars-
0
Africa Travel Magazine
Perhaps, more than any other at the end of diffas (great feasts)
Spain.
food, couscous, Morocco’s na- to satiate the hunger of guests.
With an illustrious background
tional dish, is cooked by the Hence, complying with Arab
and centuries of evolvement,
peasants solely from vegetables. hospitality that ‘no guest can go
Moroccan cuisine has made for
A Berber dish embellished by the home hungry’.
itself a notch in the cooking of
Arabs and Spanish Muslims, it For sweets, the Moroccans are
the world. In all strata of society,
is prepared in endless varieties. known for their creations based
the housewife prepares her dishes
Pleasing to the eye, it is served on honey, almonds, sugar and
so perfectly that it is considered
on a platter and the couscous is flaky dough. The honey and al-
vulgar to place salt on the table.
heaped pyramid style with a hol- monds have always been utilized
Usually, she keeps secret her own
low on top which is filled with in Moroccan pastry. The sugar
recipes and improves them with
the stew. Known as the king of and flaky dough were introduced
the passing years until they reach
the Moroccan kitchen, it is served by the Arabs to North Africa and
perfection.
For one visiting Morocco
there is not much chance to
try these home-cooked meals.
Nevertheless, travellers should
not leave the country without
having a meal in restaurants
set in a converted Moorish-
Andalusian palace which are
to be found in every large city.
Here, with haunting Arab mu-
sic as a background, one can
enjoy a sumptuous Moroccan
repast which always includes a
number of tempting vegetarian
dishes. Such a meal will leave
with most visitors, when they
return to their native lands, a
deep nostalgia for that coun-
try’s food .
On the other hand, if a person
cannot journey to the enchant-
ing and fascinating land of the
Moors, these few vegetarian
foods will give an insight into
their great cuisine.
VEGETABLE HARIRA
Serves about 12
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium sized onions,
chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh
coriander leaves
1 small hot pepper, finely
Africa Travel Magazine
chopped adding more water if necessary. lemon slices and olives evenly
1 cup lentils, soaked overnight In the meantime, in a frying pan, overtop, then re-cover and bake
2 cups cooked chickpeas heat oil, then sauté onions over for a further 10 minutes. Serve
2 cups stewed tomatoes medium heat for 15 minutes. Add hot from the casserole.
8 cups water garlic, coriander leaves and hot VEGETABLE COUSCOUS
3 teaspoons salt pepper, then stir-fry for further 5 Serves about 12
2 teaspoons ginger minutes. Add frying pan contents A couscousiere is needed for this
1 teaspoon paprika and remaining ingredients to recipe. However if one is not
1 teaspoon pepper beans, then bring to boil, adding available a double boiler with a
1 teaspoon cumin more water if necessary. Re- perforated top may be substituted.
1 teaspoon turmeric cover, then cook for 30 minutes, 2 cups couscous
1/4 cup rice adding a little more water if nec- 5 tablespoons butter, melted
4 tablespoons lemon juice essary. Stir in lemon juice, then 4 tablespoons cooking oil
serve hot or cold. 1 large onion, chopped
In a large saucepan, heat oil, then VEGETABLE TAJINE 4 cloves garlic, crushed
sauté onions over medium heat Serves 6 to 8 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cori-
for 10 minutes. Add garlic, cori- 4 tablespoons butter ander leaves
ander leaves and hot pepper, then 2 medium onions, chopped 1 hot pepper, finely chopped
stir-fry for a further 5 minutes. 4 cloves garlic crushed 1 can chickpeas (19 oz 540 ml),
Stir in remaining ingredients, 4 tablespoons finely chopped with its water
except the lemon juice, then bring fresh coriander leaves 2 cups stewed tomatoes
to a boil. Cover and cook over 1 small hot pepper, finely 1/2 cup lentils
medium heat for 35 minutes or chopped 2 medium carrots, scraped and
until the rice and lentils are well 4 medium potatoes, peeled, the quartered, then cut lengthwise
done, adding more water if neces- sliced into l/4 inch thick slices into 2 inch long pieces
sary or if a more liquid soup is 2 medium sized carrots, scraped, 2 medium parsnips, peeled and
desired. Stir in lemon juice, then then cut into thin rounds quartered, then cut lengthwise
serve. 1 can chickpeas (19 oz 540 ml), into 2 inch long pieces
BROAD BEAN PURÉE - with its water 2 medium sized potatoes, peeled
BIESAR Serves about 8 2 cups stewed tomatoes and diced into 1 inch cubes
2 cups large dried broad beans, 1 teaspoon salt 1 small turnip, about 3 inch in
soaked for 24 hours, then skinned 1 teaspoon ginger diameter, peeled and diced into 1
5 cloves garlic, chopped 1/2 teaspoon pepper inch cubes
1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon cumin 1/4 cup raisins
4 tablespoons olive oil pinch of saffron 3 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 lemon, quartered, then sliced 1 teaspoon pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons salt into thin slices 1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon oregano 1/2 cup pitted green olives 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon thyme In a casserole, melt butter, then 1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/8 teaspoon cayenne sauté onions, garlic, coriander pinch of saffron
1/2 teaspoon paprika leaves and hot pepper over me- 6 cups water
In a pot, place broad beans, garlic dium heat for 10 minutes. Stir 1 teaspoon paprika
and cumin, then cover with water in remaining ingredients, except 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
and bring to boil. Cover sauce- the lemon slices and olives, then Place couscous and butter in a
pan, then cook over medium heat place in a 3500 F preheated oven, bowl, then thoroughly mix until
for 50 minutes or until beans are then cover and bake for 1 hour, or all kernels are coated. Place in
cooked. Drain, but reserve the until vegetables are cooked. Place top part of the couscousiere, then
Africa Travel Magazine
set aside. ing sauce in a gravy bowl and
In the bottom part of the couscou- remaining vegetables in a sepa-
siere, heat oil, then sauté onion, rate bowl.
garlic, coriander leaves and hot Habeeb Salloum
pepper over medium heat for 10 58 Langbourne Place
minutes. Add remaining ingredi- Don Mills, Ontario, Canada M3B
ents, except paprika, and sesame 1A9
seeds, and bring to a boil, then fit Tel: 416/445-4558, Fax: 416/510-
the top part of the couscous filled 2143
couscousiere with the couscous E-mail: habeeb.salloum@sym-
on the bottom part and seal the patico.ca
two parts together with a piece
of cloth impregnated with flour.
Cook over medium heat for 20
minutes, stirring couscous once
in a while to make sure no lumps
are formed, then slowly sprinkle,
while constantly stirring, a cup
of water over couscous. Cook for
further 30 minutes, continuing to
stir couscous every few minutes.
Remove top part of the couscous-
iere and ensure the vegetables are
cooked. If not, cook for further
few minutes.
Place couscous on a large serving
platter, pyramid shape, then make
well on top. Place cooked vege-
tables with a little of the sauce in
the well, then decorate couscous
with paprika and sesame seeds.
Serve immediately with remain-
Africa Travel Magazine
MOROCCAN TRAVEL MARKET, MARRAKECH 2010
January 14-17, 2010 country as a whole. Where else ing adding an undeniable feeling
will be here soon. Make are all the walls and buildings of the past. Marrakech is now
plans now! tinted in a rich pastel pink, the something of a Moroccan tourism
broad avenues and promenades Mecca and is home to the south’s
About Marrakech lined with rows and rows of or- premier souq (market).
by Muguette Goufrani ange trees with ripe fruit dangling Founded almost 1,000 years
We have known what a great from their branches like holiday ago, the character of Marrakech
host city Marrakech is since we ornaments? In recent years and remains quite unchanged, being
were part of the Africa Travel from our magazine’s new base hot, full of energy and somewhat
Association’s 3rd Cultural and in Morocco, we managed to visit African. However, the city of
Ecotourism Symposium in 1996 a and photograph a wide cross today has been greatly influenced
at Le Palais du Congrès, one year section the city’s of riads and by arriving Europeans and fea-
after Africa Travel Magazine was hotels, in order to give our read- tures outdoor swimming pools,
founded. Born in Morocco, edu- ers an idea of the choice available mountain parties, and street cafes,
cated here and having traveled for all price ranges. The follow- as well as Moroccan palaces,
much of the country with my fa- ing are comments from Morocco mosques and kasbahs, spread
ther, one of Morocco’s major tour Tourism: Serving as the capital around the Medina and its centre
operators, I knew about Marrake- of southern Morocco, the city of Djemaa El Fna square. For the
ch, its reputation and amazing Marrakech is one of the country’s latest in Marrakech tourist in-
potential for tourism. Today, 14 most visited and this colorful oa- formation, head to the New City
years later, that statement is borne sis retains a rather exotic flavour, (Ville Nouvelle) and pay a visit
out by outstanding growth in with some 16 km / 10 miles of to the Office National Marocain
the city’s tourism sector and the mid-brick ramparts still stand- du Tourism (ONMT). Morocco
and Africa are developing their
own tourism event, the Moroccan
Travel Market (MTM), the Inter-
national Tourism Fair dedicated
to industry professionals, which
will take place from 14 to 17
January 2010 in Marrakech.
An International Event, MTM’s
first edition in 2008 brought
together tourism professionals
from over 20 countries; with 230
exhibitors, 8689 visitors and 120
Africa Travel Magazine
New higher resolution
photos and maps to be
added. Text to receive
final editing before pub-
lication.
INTERNATIONAL FAIR FOR TOURISM PROFESSIONALS
foreign journalists who took part information and accommodation to tourism professionals in the
in the inaugural event, which has visit http://www.mtm.ma/Home_ region, this is confirmed by the
been unanimously described as a a71.html international echo which it had
master piece. Why Exhibit at MTM? that by the trust and the loyalty of
An excellent business platform, A single quote summarizes the the participants. Indeed, 97 % of
the fair is the ideal opportunity satisfaction of the participants to the exhibitors renew their partici-
for all Moroccan and foreign the Moroccan Travel Market, that pations to the second edition and
tourism professionals to expose of a Tour Operator who addressed the majority of exhibitors double
their products and services and the organizers: “What has been their spaces of exhibition. This
meet fellow professionals, deci- noted here far exceeds what we trust is a strong signal expressed
sion makers and buyers from generally expect at some shows by satisfied professionals.
around the world. Enjoying its that are more internationally fa- Exhibiting at the Moroccan Trav-
strategic geographical situa- mous. Morocco gave evident that el Market it is benefiting from the
tion, between Europe and Africa, it can organize its own event and contribution of an integral event:
Morocco, through the Moroc- succeed.” • Business and development op-
can Travel Market, is becoming In one edition, The MTM became portunities for your company
the vector of development of the the first Travel Fair dedicated • Fruitful and beneficial meetings
North-South exchanges. For fill • Professional visitors and deci-
sion-maker
• A rich and diverse program in a
friendly atmosphere
• A meeting space for profession-
als to promote destinations
MTM offers you the possibility
to:
• Materialise commercial oppor-
tunities and finalise partnership
agreements
• Follow new market trends and
stay up-to-date
• Promote your offering to the
leaders of the industry
• Boost your image and stress
your positioning
Africa Travel Magazine
