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					                                                           F R I D AY- S U N D AY, N O V E M B E R 6 - 8 , 2 0 0 9

Lobster safari
C        f
Cruising for crustaceans
along the Swedish coast

        An Arsenal fan’s pitch-perfect home   Van Gogh through his letters
      3 | Sports                                                                                8-9 | Cover story Travel                                                                             12 | Interview

     Home sweet stadium                                                                     Lobster safari                                                                                           The man behind the magic
                                                                                                                                                                                                     13 | Film
      4 | Books                                                                              Cruising for crustaceans along the

     1989: hammer, no sickle
                                                                                             Swedish coast                                                                                           Morgenstern on ‘A Christmas Carol’
                                                                                                                                                                                                     14 | Top Picks
      5 | Art
                                                                                                                                                                                                     In Berlin, peacocks, dragonflies
     Van Gogh through his letters                                                                                                                                                                    and bats
      Collecting: Yves Saint Laurent                                                                                                                                                                 Old masters at the Dulwich
      6-7 | Fashion                                                                                                                                                                                  15 | Taste

                                                                                                                                                                                                     Checkbook restoration
                                                                                                                                                                                                     16 | Time Off

                                                                                                                                                                                                     Our arts and culture calendar
                                                Black diamonds

                                                in the rough
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Barbara Tina Fuhr Editor

                                                                                                                                                                                         Paul Ames
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Elisabeth Limber Art director
      Resurrecting a French label                                                                                                                                                                                  Brian M. Carney Taste page editor
                                                                                            Seafood on offer in Gothenburg’s Feskekörka fishmarket.
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Questions or comments? Write to wsje.weekend@wsj.com.
                                                                                                        COV E R , S e a f o o d f r o m S m o g e n I s l a n d , Sw e d e n .                                        Please include your full name and address.
                                                                                                           P h o t o g r a p h : M a c d u f f Eve r t o n / C o r b i s

THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk                                                                                  60 Went for the gold
                                                                                                                              61 Metal baskets
                                                                                                                                                                                  1   On cloud nine
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Leatherneck’s letters
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Litigious sort
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         77 “Cry, the Beloved
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Country” author
                                                                                                                                 for burning oil                                  2   Flummoxed                     46      “More to Love” host         78 Irregularly
Across                           22 Farm team               30 Curl up cozily              47 Grudging approval               63 Puts in the microwave                            3   Expert at forging             48      Smooch                          shaped disks
     1 Hormel product            23 Penultimate             32 Boorish bloke               49 Golden calf maker               64 Long-necked lutes                                                                                                      83 Lawn tool
                                    letters                                                                                                                                       4   “Major Dundee” star           52      Proton feature?
                                                            33 Bonobo, for one             50 Not written                                                                                                                                               85 Lines at the movies?
     5 Like the                                                                                                               65 Alibi ___ (excuse makers)                        5   Crude cartel                          Favorable use of
       house beer                24 Order pizza, say        34 Had on                      51 Lavish                                                                                                                        plastic? Whatever!          86 Raves about
                                                                                                                              66 Zen riddles                                      6   Within reach
    10 Songwriters’ org.         25 Response to             35 “Darn it!”                  53 Studio art                                                                                                                    I’m a PC                    87 Sophocles play
                                    getting a ring?                                           souvenir                        67 Big account                                      7   “Mon Oncle” director/star
    15 Org. that sells                                      38 Royal advisers?                                                                                                                                      54      New PC of 1985              90 Very long time
                                 26 Bank deposit?              Outhouse                    54 White vestment                  68 Floods                                           8   Somewhat
       “Cut class, not                                                                                                        71 Central part                                                                       57      Valerie played her           91 Have the deed to
                                 27 Carping?                   committees?                 55 In-box item                                                                         9   Slim dagger
       frogs” T-shirts                                                                                                                                                                                              58      Bakery need                 93 Any of the “One Bad
                                    Nitpicking                 Whatever!                   56 Pâtissier?                      72 More than asleep                                10   1990s Oldsmobile model
    19 “Don’t look ___!”                                       I’m a PC                                                                                                                                             59      “Inferno” division              Apple” singers
                                    of Richard?                                               Tart person?                    76 Like Piglet                                     11   Sows and cows
    20 Singer Bryson                Whatever!               44 Press into                     Whatever!                                                                                                             62      Timetables,                 97 Grout applier
                                                                                                                              77 Crisp? Tuber splinter?                          12   With nary a wave
    21 Preside over                 I’m a PC                   service                        I’m a PC                           Whatever! I’m a PC                                                                         à la Variety                98 Adversary
                                                                                                                                                                                 13   Feel poorly                   64      Embroidered alphabet        99 Pop-up breakfast fare
                                                                                                                              79 Caterer’s containers
I’m a PC / by Myles Callum                                                                                                    80 Several Norwegian kings
                                                                                                                                                                                 14   What it is                    66      “Gimme a break” brand      100 Competent
                                                                                                                                                                                 15   Sheriff’s power?              67      “Apparently!”              101 Sign on for
1      2    3    4         5      6    7    8    9          10    11   12   13   14         15    16   17   18                81 Puffin’s cousin                                      Latin militia?
                                                                                                                              82 What C on a boarding                                                               68      Jazz dance                      another hitch
19                         20                               21                              22                                                                                        Whatever! I’m a PC
                                                                                                                                 pass might indicate                                                                69      “For Whom the              102 Locks in a stall
                                                                                                                                                                                 16   Way to go
23                         24                               25                              26                                84 Game-ending word                                                                           Bell Tolls” woman          103 Grand ___
                                                                                                                                                                                 17   Spill the beans
                                                                                                                              85 Shoulder bag feature                                                               70      Valuable violin            104 Opportune
27                    28                               29                        30   31                                                                                         18   Cash on hand?
                                                                                                                              87 Hosted, toasted or roasted                                                         71      Grieve                     105 Great Lakes port
                                                                                                                                                                                 28   Baseball Hall
32                                               33                         34                                                88 Hotel amenity                                                                      72      Smart                      106 Grifters’ games
                                                                                                                                                                                      of Famer Robin
                                                                                                                              89 Anti-inflationary                                                                  73      Vein yields                107 Prize for Asimov
                 35        36     37        38                    39   40                         41   42   43                                                                   29   Cost-of-living meas.
                                                                                                                                 measures? Vincent’s knobs?                                                         74      Piece of cake              108 At the peak of
                                                                                                                                                                                 31   Directional suffix
44     45   46        47               48                   49                              50                                   Whatever! I’m a PC                                                                 75      “¿Cómo ___ usted?”          111 Is for you
                                                                                                                                                                                 34   “A Room of One’s Own”
                                                                                                                              92 Thus
51               52                                               53                  54                                      94 It’s heard on the street
                                                                                                                                                                                 36   They offer spot coverage
55                         56                    57    58   59                        60                                      95 Reverence
                                                                                                                                                                                 37   Chestnut weasels
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Last Week’s Solution
                                                                                                                              96 Lauder of lotions                                                                  A   S AM S         E   L   O
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             P E          C   L   A P     O   R   A   L
61                    62                         63                              64                                                                                              38   Bygone days
                                                                                                                            100 Designer suit name                                                                  C   H C OI         P   O   N
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             E S          R   O   D E     N   E   D   S
                                                                                                                                                                                 39   Sites of some fancy
                 65                         66                              67                                              103 Fairy tale guy?                                       parties                       H   A T O L
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             D         O   W   E
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             R T H        E   O   V E R   H   E   A   D
                                                                                                                                 Hexing a pop musician?                                                             E   L   D I
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             L         C   E   S
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               S A        C   K     R O   A   D   S
                                                                                                                                                                                 40   Buffy Sainte-Marie and
68     69   70                         71                              72                         73   74   75                   Whatever! I’m a PC                                                                 S   E M NE         H   L R E S        H   E   A   S   N   I   T   S
                                                                                                                                                                                      Tantoo Cardinal, e.g.
                                                                                                                            109 One who’s out of stock?                                                                   O L D
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             S         A   L O F H
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               L          E   R   S P Y   D   E   R   S
76                                77                              78                        79                                                                                   41   Sister of Olga and Masha
                                                                                                                            110 Home to Hermès                                                                            D I A        L     A A
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               F              S   P A         R   A   N
                                                                                                                                                                                 42   Football factory worker       D R O I D                S T E       M          T H   U
80                                81                              82                  83                                     112 Steelhead, for one
                                                                                                                                                                                 43   Goes downhill, in a way       WA S F O R         C E D T O D       OW       N S I   Z E
                                                                                                                             113 Russian clown Popov
84                         85                    86         87                                    88                                                                                                                E MM Y    Y        U L E   F U       R O      R   V   I N Y       L
                                                                                                                             114 Breathing apparatus?
89                    90                               91                   92              93                               115 Rubbish                                         WSJ.com                            L B O   L E        P E R             E R      O D E     T E       A
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    T O N T O          I V I E D         A S      T O     E R A       S
                 94                              95                                   96          97   98   99               116 1973 album featuring                                   Crossword online                D E C I        D E D T O C       U T      C O R   N E R       S
                                                                                                                                 “Photograph”                                                                             N O D            E C R U                    I   R E N       E
                                                                                                                                                                                      For an interactive
100 101 102                            103 104                    105 106 107 108                                            117 Animated clownfish                                                                 O P E     L        G A     A B        S       O E N   O
                                                                                                                                                                                     version of The Wall            J U S T B E        A R L Y G E        T   T   I N G   B Y
                                                                                                                             118 Thrusting weapon
109                        110 111                          112                             113                                                                                   Street Journal Crossword,         O N T H E          S E E A   D        R   I   L L     E A S       E
                                                                                                                             119 Sides in an
                                                                                                                                                                                    WSJ.com subscribers               C H A S E          AM P S           E   N   I A C     H A       G
114                        115                              116                             117                                  ongoing battle
                                                                                                                                                                                          can go to                 T H EWO L          FWA S A T          T   H   E I R   D O O       R
                                                                                                                            120 Story-telling slave
118                        119                              120                             121                                                                                  WSJ.com/WeekendJournal             MU T E    B        E A N   P I        T   A   S   A   L O N       E
                                                                                                                             121 Prohibition backers                                                                S P E D   A        M Y S   S C        O   T   T   T   V S E       T

W2 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009                               |    WEEKEND JOURNAL
v   Sports

For Arsenal fanatic, a stadium to call home
By James Appell                          own jacket now hangs where Mr.

     N THE WORLD of sports, there        Bergkamp’s once was. In total, he es-
     are fans and there are fanatics—    timates that he spent £3,000 at the
     and Steven Kyprianou, a life-       auction, admitting that he has
long Arsenal Football Club obses-        stretched himself financially to sat-
sive, falls squarely among the latter.   isfy his love for Arsenal.
Not only does he own season tickets          The football theme continues
for 14 seats, Mr. Kyprianou adores       throughout the rest of Mr. Kypri-
Arsenal so much that, earlier this       anou’s flat, with memorabilia adorn-
year, he moved into the stadium.         ing the walls. The true pièce de resis-
    The old stadium, that is. Arsenal    tance is in the bathroom, where a
announced plans in 1999 to relocate      flat-screen television on the wall
from Highbury Stadium, the club’s        plays round-the-clock sports news,
home for 93 years, to a state-of-the-    allowing him to stay informed in
art venue about 500 meters away.         even the most private of moments.
The new home, Emirates Stadium,              The Highbury Square complex,
opened in July 2006 at a cost of         estimated to have cost £150 million,
about £400 million ($660 million),       still bears many of the telltale signs
boasting a 20,000-plus-seat up-          of its former guise. The stands were
grade. Meanwhile, the old stadium        hollowed out, rather than knocked
was converted into a high-end apart-     down, and flats built inside the
ment complex, Highbury Square,           metal shells. Original Art Deco fea-
which opened in August 2008.             tures, most notably the East Stand’s
    Mr. Kyprianou relished the           red-and-white Arsenal insignia,
chance to spell out his commitment       have been retained. And where once
to Arsenal in bricks and mortar. He      there was a pitch, there now stands
attended his first Arsenal match at      a garden, replete with fountains and
the stadium when he was five. Now,       colored lighting, designed by land-
30 years later, he owns two flats        scaper Christopher Bradley-Hole.
there, a coveted penthouse and the       Architects Allies and Morrison have
one-bedroom apartment in which           been nominated for a clutch of             Clockwise from top left:
he lives, an outlay valued in the re-    awards for the site.                       The façade of Arsenal’s old

                                                                                                                                                                                          James Appell, www.highburysquare.com (2)
gion of £1.7 million ($2.8 million).         But the development of High-           Highbury Stadium is part of the
    “It’s private, secure, quiet, very   bury Stadium has not been without          new apartment complex known as
aesthetically pleasing, with parking     challenges. Though sales have been         Highbury Square; Steven Kyprianou
off the street,” said Mr. Kyprianou,     steady, occupancy rates remain only        in his new Highbury Square flat,
who runs a business that provides        around the 70% mark, according to          with former Arsenal striker Dennis
communications technology to com-        the club. In September, Arsenal sold       Bergkamp’s coat hook behind
mercial retailers. “And let’s not for-   a tranche of nearly 150 apartments         him on the door; a view of
get—it’s Highbury Stadium! I’d hap-      to real-estate group London and            Highbury Square from above.
pily camp here in winter.”               Stamford Property at a discount to
    Mr. Kyprianou isn’t the only fan     market value of 20%, with cashflow
able to take advantage of the bur-       problems blamed. A spokesman for
geoning trend for integrating sports     Arsenal declined to comment on the
venues and housing. Also in Lon-         specifics of the deal. Financially, at
don, Leyton Orient Football Club de-     least, the stadium move may not
veloped its Brisbane Road stadium        have been entirely successful for
five years ago, constructing blocks      the club.
of flats on the four corners of the          Despite the business risks,
pitch. Plans are also afoot for a        though, the decision to convert the
project at the Walthamstow Dog           old stadium into apartments has
Track in northeast London and, fur-      changed the life of Mr. Kyprianou,
ther afield, in Dubai’s Stadium          who finally has found an apartment
Point, a complex next to the city’s      that’s a match made in heaven. Wak-
new cricket arena. The idea was also     ing up every day to look out over his
floated for the redevelopment of Ti-     club’s former home is the stuff of
ger Stadium in Detroit—though ulti-      boyhood dreams.
mately a decision was made to flat-          “I didn’t sleep for the first week I
ten the site.                            moved in here,” he said, smiling as
    On the whole, though, the High-      he sat on a comfortable leather sofa
bury Square project, comprised of        in his Highbury Square home. “I just
725 flats in North London that range     put my face to the window and
in price from £250,000 to £1.5 mil-      looked out, in awe of the place.”
lion, is largely a unique one, bucking       But those fans without Mr. Kypri-
the usual preference, as at Tiger Sta-   anou’s means were sad to see the
dium or the Brooklyn Dodgers’            old stadium go—and now are
Ebbets Field in New York, for demol-     tempted by a dream they can’t live
ishing old stadiums entirely.            out. “They’d ripped it all out,
    Never before has a football club     smashed all the windows in, cut big
so eagerly sought to maintain the        holes in it and it was a bit depress-
link with its former home as Arsenal     ing,” said Pete Krige, a season-ticket
did at Highbury, where the benefit       holder who stood gazing through
was historical preservation—the          the entrance of the new complex.
East and West stands happen to be        Now Mr. Krige, who lives in a ter-
listed buildings protected by law—       raced house around the corner, ad-
and the added bonus of potential         mits the new flats make him proud
tenants like Mr. Kyprianou. Not only     to be an Arsenal fan, though it’s all a
did he buy apartments in the Arse-       bit bittersweet. “They’ve done a fan-
nal complex, he also splashed out        tastic job with the place,” he said.
when the club auctioned off all the      “I’d love to live here.”
items that were left, from the turf to       Though largely ecstatic about
the bath-taps, before it moved stadi-    his new home, Mr. Kyprianou la-
ums in 2006.                             ments that other residents in the
    “The idea was to buy stuff that I    complex do not share his commit-
would then put into my own prop-         ment to Arsenal. Other true fanat-
erty,” said Mr. Kyprianou. His arse-     ics, he says, have been left peering
nal of booty that day included three     at the gate—and Highbury Square                “Fifty Fathoms Automatique”
                                                                                        (ref. 5015-3630-52)
baths from the changing rooms, the       has been infiltrated by traitors.
showerheads and taps, soap dis-              “I know there’s a Liverpool sup-
pensers and soap holders.                porter here, and a Manchester
    Then there are his “prized pos-      United supporter, because I’ve seen
sessions”: former Arsenal striker        them wearing their shirts,” he said.
Dennis Bergkamp’s coat hook and          “It’s a bit of a slap in the face.”
shoe holder. Mr. Kyprianou’s shoes         —James Appell is a writer based
fit handily in the holder, while his                                  in London.

                                                                                                                         WEEKEND JOURNAL   | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009   W3
v   Books

                                                                                                                                                                                                                Getty Images
Hammer, no sickle                                                                                                                                                                 East German guards threw
                                                                                                                                                                            open Berlin Wall checkpoints on
                                                                                                                                                                    Nov. 9, 1989, and jubilant crowds began
How the fall of the Berlin Wall and communism’s collapse reshaped Europe                                                                                      dismantling the wall in the days that followed.

By William Anthony Hay                   tingent the transition was. Leader-      in Leipzig on Oct. 9, 1989. Western      tance to German reunification. He         ropean countries for help. The bur-

       ENJAMIN DISRAELI de-              ship, as we know, must not only man-     television captured the size of the      and his American ally had the advan-      den thus fell on Germany, which
       scribed the Franco-Prussian       age crises but also avert them, often    demonstrations and the lack of a         tage of a clear objective: democracy,     promised the Soviets generous
       War that brought about Ger-       in conditions of uncertainty. Condi-     firm response—and momentum               with a market-based economy for           loans and other financial guaran-
many’s unification in 1871 as “the       tions in 1989 were uncertain indeed.     shifted dramatically to the East Ger-    all of Germany and, it was hoped,         tees.
German revolution, a greater politi-         In the late 1980s, the Soviet bloc   man public. Meanwhile, for the gov-      for the rest of the Eastern Bloc, too.        The costs of reunification— com-
cal event than the French.”              was engaging in a process of slow re-    ernment, the cost of repression          The moment for repression had             bined with such checkbook diplo-
    It turned out to be a shrewd         form, but the possibility of repres-     grew, making a “Chinese solution”        passed, and West Germany’s pros-          macy—hobbled the German econ-
claim, given the two world wars          sion was never far away. East Ger-       increasingly unlikely. Several East-     perity appealed to East Germans           omy for a generation, making Ger-
that followed. But the German reuni-     many remained the most authoritar-       ern European regimes began mak-          more than their old system did.           many anything but the superpower
fication of 1989 seems less a revolu-    ian Soviet satellite. Its leaders        ing concessions that included open-          Mr. Kohl persistently caught Mr.      that many had feared. Indeed, wor-
tion in Disraeli’s sense than a resto-   feared that Mikhail Gorbachev’s pol-     ing their borders to the West. The       Gorbachev and other resistant lead-       ries about a reunited Germany were
ration. Rather than setting into mo-     icy of Perestroika—a cautious loos-      spirit of rebellion reached its height   ers off-balance, presenting succes-       appeased, in part, by the crippling
tion yet another round of great-         ening of Communist Party control         on Nov. 9, when the Berlin Wall fell.    sive faits accomplis that defined the     burdens that the country bore
power rivalry, the end of Germany’s      over the economy and political life—        Few welcomed the change. A            new reality. When Mr. Mitterrand          merely to end its own division.
division brought about changes that      would unleash forces impossible to       French novelist captured the gen-        dropped his opposition, in the                Ms. Sarotte makes clear that
extended democratic stability            control. They were right to worry.       eral sentiment by writing that he        hopes of gaining German backing           1989 was a hinge moment that, un-
through Eastern and Central Eu-          The citizens of Eastern Europe were      loved Germany so much that he was        for French ambitions in Europe,           like 1871, moved history in a better
rope. That Europe is no longer a         already restless, seeing ever more       glad there were two of them.             Mrs. Thatcher found herself margin-       direction. Despite the literal costs
flashpoint in world politics is a mea-   vividly—thanks in part to global         François Mitterand and Margaret          alized. Mr. Kohl also chipped away        to Germany, the events she de-
sure of just how successful the trans-   technology—how materially de-            Thatcher both joined Mr. Gorbachev       at Mr. Gorbachev’s objections, even-      scribes brought considerable bene-
formation has been.                                                                                 in opposing Ger-       tually even winning his acceptance        fits—and not only to the deprived
    In “1989: The Struggle to Create                                                                man unification.       of a united Germany’s continued           East. German reunification became
Post-Cold War Europe,” Mary Elise        “That Europe is no longer a                                The U.S., for its      membership in NATO.                       a model for peaceful transfer. NATO
Sarotte charts the events of that mo-                                                               part, had long em-         At home, Mr. Kohl used the skills     and the European Union pressed as-
mentous year and their astonishing       flashpoint in world politics is a                          braced a policy of     of a ward heeler to play German poli-     piring members to match Germa-
effects. With the collapse of East                                                                  preferring the di-     ticians off one another and to align      ny’s standards of transparency and
Germany’s communist dictatorship,        measure of just how successful                             vided-Germany sta-     himself with his supporters in the        to institute the rule of law, easing
Helmut Kohl, West Germany’s chan-                                                                   tus quo.               East. Monetary union—requiring a          the transition from totalitarianism.
cellor, shrewdly played events to        the transformation has been.”                                 The U.S. became     one-to-one exchange rate for the              Many analysts predicted a re-
the advantage of the West. He man-                                                                  more engaged after     deutsche mark, despite huge differ-       turn to the instability of the 1920s
aged to absorb the “other” Germany                                                                  Nov. 9, however,       ences in the value of East and West       and 1930s or the pre-1914 rivalry
within the Federal Republic despite      prived they were, compared with          and Mr. Bush ended up having the         Germany’s currency—was a potent           among great powers. Instead, they
resistance from the Soviet Union         the West, and how unfree.                fewest qualms, among Western lead-       lure. It helped sell the idea that East   saw peace, rising living standards
and other European powers. Mr.               China’s crackdown on protesters      ers, about reunification. Mr. Baker      Germany could be absorbed into ex-        and spreading democracy. A benefi-
Kohl found an invaluable partner in      at Tiananmen Square on June 3,           privately noted that for the past 40     isting West German structures.            cent European order that collapsed
George H.W. Bush and James Baker,        1989, provided an alternative to Per-    years America had wanted a free Eu-          Indeed, money played a key part       with World War I returned when the
Mr. Bush’s secretary of state, both of   estroika that fit more closely with      rope; with a united Germany, he          in the whole process. Mr. Kohl real-      Berlin Wall fell. It is an achievement
whom saw a democratic Germany            the history of Communist rule. But       saw, the U.S. would have a greater       ized that Mr. Gorbachev would in-         well worth celebrating.
within NATO as part of a structure       East German authorities—in a fatal       role than Mr. Gorbachev in Europe’s      sist on payment for his concessions.                 —William Anthony Hay, a
that would preserve both American        miscalculation—failed to seize on        destiny.                                 The Soviet Union was feeling severe              historian at Mississippi State
influence and European stability.        it; at a tipping-point moment, they         Thus Mr. Bush became Mr. Kohl’s       economic strains, and it could not            University, is the author of “The
    But the full story shows how con-    chose not to repress mass protests       partner in overcoming the resis-         count on either the U.S. or major Eu-                              Whig Revival.”

W4 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009             | WEEKEND JOURNAL
v   Art

Letters paint portrait of van Gogh                                                                                                                                                Saint Laurent
                                                                                                                                                                                  sale, part deux
Collection of correspondence dispels key myths associated with the Dutch artist’s life and work
By Paul Levy
                                                                                                                                                                                  T   here’s something for every-
                                                                                                                                                                                      one at the second Yves
                                                                                                                                                                                  Saint Laurent-Pierre Bergé auc-
                            Amsterdam                                                                                                                                             tion, which is set to take place

       T LEAST SINCE the advent of                                                                                                                                                in Paris on Nov. 17-20 and offer
       cheap color reproduction in                                                                                                                                                household items from Chateau
       the 1960s, Vincent van Gogh                                                                                                                                                Gabriel, the pair’s fairytale re-
has been a front-runner for the title                                                                                                                                             treat on the Normandy coast.
of the world’s most popular artist,                                                                                                                                                  The first Yves Saint Laurent-
with millions of copies of his paint-
ings “Sunflowers” and “The Starry
Night” decorating student walls ev-                                                                                                                                               Collecting
    You can’t miss the irony of such
                                                                                                                                                                                  Margaret Studer
posthumous fame for an artist who
sold only a single painting in his life-                                                                                                                                          Pierre Bergé estate sale, held
time. The view of the mad, almost                                                                                                                                                 in February, featured master-
possessed genius springs from the                                                                                                                                                 pieces of fine art and furniture.
bad 1934 Irving Stone novel based                                                                                                                                                 It fetched Œ374 million, making
on van Gogh’s letters, “Lust for                                                                                                                                                  it the most valuable private col-
Life,” and from the less bad 1956                                                                                                                                                 lection sold at an auction. A
MGM film of it starring Kirk Doug-                                                                                                                                                1911 painting by Henri Matisse,
las. More recently we’ve had the ten-                                                                                                                                             the top lot, went for Œ36 mil-
der, sad van Gogh of Don McLean’s                                                                                                                                                 lion, a record for the artist.
1972 song, “Vincent” (which begins                                                                                                                                                    Part two of the pair’s estate
“Starry, starry night”).                                                                                                                                                          sale is less expensive, but no
    Now a landmark six-volume edi-                                                                                                                                                less intriguing, featuring house-
tion of his letters (Thames & Hud-                                                                                                                                                hold items from Chateau Gabri-
son, £325-£395, www.vangoghlet-                                                                                                                                                   el’s kitchen, bedroom and be-
ters.org) and some exhibitions                                                                                                                                                    yond. Expected to go for Œ3 mil-
                                            2009 The Press Association (2)

based on it, argues that we’ve got                                                                                                                                                lion-Œ4 million in total, the
Vincent wrong. Fifteen years of                                                                                                                                                   1,185 lots in the Christie’s sale
scholarship by a trio of curators at                                                                                                                                              come not only from Chateau
the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam—                                                                                                                                                   Gabriel, but also from the
Leo Jansen, Hans Luijten and                                                                                                                                                      pair’s Parisian apartments and
Nienke Bakker—have arrived at                                                                                                                                                     Mr. Saint Laurent’s Paris of-
very different conclusions from the                                                                                                                                               fices. Among the items are fur-
820 autographed let-                                                                                                                                                              nishings, art, walking sticks,
ters by the artist—                                                                                                                                                               Louis Vuitton and Hermès lug-
about 600 of them to                                                                                                                                                              gage, framed butterflies, toy
his art-dealer brother,                                                                                                                                                           soldiers and even Mr. Saint Lau-
Theo—and 80 written                                                                                                                                                               rent’s Mercedes Benz, esti-
to van Gogh. Though                                                                                                                                                               mated at Œ30,000-Œ50,000.
these letters have                                                                                                                                                                    Paris designer Jacques
never been out of print                                                                                                                                                           Grange, who was responsible
since first published in                                                                                                                                                          for Chateau Gabriel’s interior
English in 1958, the                                                                                                                                                              decoration, says the inspiration
new edition dispels                                                                                                                                                               for the retreat came from the
some of the key points                                                                                                                                                            exotic castles created by Lud-
of the van Gogh myth.                                                                         says, that they have intrinsic liter-     tious about saying that the letters       wig II of Bavaria and also from
    Born in 1853, the sec-                                                                    ary worth. They reveal the original-      confirm the now-popular view that         patrician director Luchino Vis-
ond of six children of a                                                                      ity of his ideas about art; his theo-     Vincent had bipolar disorder. He          conti’s film sets, particularly
clergyman of the Dutch                                                                        ries of complimentary colors; his         was diagnosed with epilepsy,              that of “L’innocente” (1976), a
Reformed Church, Vin-                                                                         passion for Japanese woodcuts; his        though; and they said that at that        film about infidelity and be-
cent van Gogh worked                                                                          admiration for Jean-François Millet       time, symptoms such as mania and          trayal in the spoiled world of
from the young age of                                                                         and Eugène Delacroix; his use of a        depression might have been as-            the Italian upper class.
16 for a firm of art-deal-                                                                    perspective frame, which he dis-          cribed to epilepsy. Their research            Some of the lots are particu-
ers in the Hague and                                                                          carded when he became skilled             tells us that in the notorious inci-      larly colorful. An ancient Etrus-
London, before becom-                                                                         enough to do without it; his immer-       dent, van Gogh sliced off only a          can terracotta left foot from
ing a missionary in a                                                                         sion in religion, until he felt able to   small bit of his ear; and that he         around the third century B.C. is
wretched Belgian coal-                                                                        do without it as well; but also his       never remembered his bouts of             estimated at Œ1,000-Œ1,200,
mining district. At the                                                                       deeply Protestant understanding           manic agitation. When he and Paul         while a double-headed cup
age of 27 he decided to                                                                       and appreciation of scripture. They       Gaugin conducted what he saw as           from the Congo is pegged to go
teach himself to be-                                                                          indicate the vast reach of his read-      the utopian experiment of living in       for Œ4,000-Œ6,000. There’s also
come an artist. In a career that                    Top, a letter from Vincent van Gogh       ing. Though he left school at 15, he      the Yellow House in Arles, he was by      a 19th-century bronze statue of
lasted only 10 years before he shot                 to his brother Theo (1882). Bottom,       was hardly a working-class drop-          no means as poor as in the myth.          Neptune from Chateau Gabri-
himself in 1890, he produced more                   van Gogh’s ‘Self Portrait as an Artist’   out: he had been home-schooled by         Theo made him an allowance of 300         el’s billiard room (estimate:
than 800 paintings and 1,200 draw-                  (1888) in Amsterdam.                      a governess, and then attended a          French francs a month in 1888, con-       Œ2,500-Œ3,500) and a sculpture
ings. A prodigious, compulsive let-                                                           boarding school.                          siderably more than the postmas-          set of Mr. Saint Laurent’s favor-
ter writer, he often illustrated his let-                                                         When van Gogh turned 16, his un-      ter, Joseph Roulin (whose entire          ite pets, French bulldogs, esti-
ters with a sketch of work he’d al-                     Then, at the Royal Academy in         cle got him a job with the art dealer     family Vincent painted) had to sup-       mated at Œ400-Œ600.
ready done (probably to justify him-                London from Jan. 23 to April 18, cu-      Goupil & Cie in the Hague. After four     port his wife and three children.             Proceeds from the sale will
self to Theo, who was supporting                    rator Ann Dumas will show 35 let-         years of training, Goupil sent him to         When Ms. Dumas displays some          go to the fight against AIDS.
him financially). He was a genuinely                ters in the context of a mighty loan      England, where he lived in South          of the swirling, thickly impasto’d,
good writer—in three languages,                     exhibition of 65 paintings and 30         London, and, at 20, earned more           turbulent Saint-Rémy paintings

Dutch, French and English.                          drawings that explore the themes of       than his father did. Here he fell in      done shortly before his suicide,
    Physically, the letters are ex-                 the letters. Some of the pieces,          love with and was rejected by his         made in the frenzy of madness ac-
tremely fragile, and opportunities                  which are on loan from public and         landlady’s daughter, and suc-             cording to the standard myth, she’ll
for the public to see the actual auto-              private collections all over the          cumbed to religious mania. He was         point out that the letters indicate a
graphed copies of them are rare.                    world, are well known, and some are       sent to a Paris dealer, but began to      calm spirit; and that, indeed, he
There is an exhibition of 120 of the                being exhibited for the first time.       despise the commercial side of art        never made a painting—or wrote a
letters at the Van Gogh Museum in                   The curators say this may well be         and was sacked in April 1876. Back        letter—during his bouts of illness.
Amsterdam until Jan. 3. The mu-                     the last time the letters can ever be     in England, the letters record his            The new edition of the letters de-
seum has rearranged its own very                    shown to the public; it will also be      time as a substitute teacher, then as     pict Vincent as a rational artist, but
large permanent collection of paint-                the first major van Gogh exhibition       a Methodist minister’s assistant,         a troubled, though superlatively tal-
ings, which includes most of the                    in London for more than 40 years.         “preaching the Gospel everywhere,”        ented, modern man. Above all, the
iconic works—“The Potato Eaters,”                       Ms. Dumas calls her show “The         working in a bookshop, translating        letters are a remedy for critical judg-
“Sunflowers,” “Irises,” the paint-                  Real Van Gogh: The Artist and his         parts of the Bible into Dutch, French     ment jaded by a million cheap post-
ings of reapers and sowers, the                     Letters.” The title of the exhibition     and English and going to Amster-          ers: they help us look at the pictures
chair and the famous portraits and                  is a tribute to the scholarship of the    dam to study theology.                    afresh and see the truly great artist
self-portraits—so that the letters                  editors, which, she says, allows us           It seems obvious with hindsight       who made them.
can be seen alongside the works he                  now to see van Gogh as he really          that he was mentally unstable. Yet            —Paul Levy is a writer based in       A double-headed cup from the
was writing about.                                  was. The letters are so good, she         Messrs. Jansen and Luijten are cau-                                Oxfordshire.     Congo (estimate: Œ4,000-Œ6,000).

                                                                                                                                  WEEKEND JOURNAL                | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009         W5
                                              v   Fashion

                                              Hunting for diamonds in the rough
                                              Looking for an alternative to flashy gems, discerning shoppers turn to black stones and natural cuts
                                              By Jemima Sissons

                                                        HEN SARAH TAYLOR, a 27-year-old
                                                        law graduate from London, re-
                                                        ceived an engagement ring, she
                                              was more than a little shocked, and not
                                              only because her boyfriend proposed on a
                                              railway platform in northern Scotland on a
                                              rainy Monday morning in March.
                                                  “It was black—a band of tiny black dia-
                                              monds, set in black gold,” Ms. Taylor said.
                                              “When I finally managed to compose myself
                                              and look at the ring, it was exquisite.”
                                                  Her 30-year-old fiancé, Paul Williams, a
                                              teacher, wanted to buy something different,
                                              so he opted for a black diamond. “Why go
                                              for bog-standard solitaire?” he said. “I
                                              wanted something out of the ordinary.”
                                                  Mr. Williams turned out to be remark-
                                              ably in touch. Tired of the garish bling that
                                              has come to epitomize Champagne-popping
                                              yacht hoppers, many shoppers are seeking
                                              out more original types of diamonds, with
                                              rough cuts or alternative hues—and black
                                              diamonds have become a particularly popu-
                                              lar choice. Apart from their own distinctive
                                              qualities, alternative diamonds are also a
                                              better credit-crunch choice: Both rough dia-
                                              monds and treated, colored diamonds are
                                              cheaper than their polished counterparts.
                                                  London-based jeweler Ming Lampson,
                                              who makes exquisite heirloom-quality
                                              pieces for her clients, has noticed a real             Cult Mayfair-based jeweler Stephen Web-     raw, organic quality. Worn by royals hun-                          Left to right: Jewels Verne shrimp brooch
                                              surge in interest in black diamonds. “In the       ster, whose neo-gothic crab rings, poison-      dreds of year ago, before polishing tech-                          (£30,000); Jewels Verne lobster ring (£17,000);
                                              last three months alone I’ve made four or          ivy necklaces and knuckle dusters are worn      niques were mastered, they are enjoying a                          vortex diamond couture knuckle duster ring
                                              five black diamond engagement rings,” she          by gothic-inclined celebrities, fashionistas    revival as people look to adorn themselves                         (£15,340); and Jewels Verne ‘Bit on the Side’
                                              said, adding that there is a hunger for un-        and socialites, sees the shift in trend as      with less ostentatious, subtler rocks.                             ring (£5,800), all made by Stephen Webster
                                              usual stones at the moment. “In the ’90s ev-       part of a cultural zeitgeist. “Black diamonds       London jeweler Leonardo Pieroni has                            with black diamonds.
                                              erything used to be white diamond and              are about dark glamour, which is perfect        been using rough diamonds for more than
                                              white metal. Now people are becoming               for today,” Mr. Webster says. “There is a       20 years. His beautiful, simple designs—a
                                              more adventurous.”                                 huge craze for the romantic, grown-up           gold band with a single stone is one of his                        terested in rough gems over 10 years ago,
                                                  Ms. Lampson said she likes using black         goth, symbolized by interest in [vampire        signature styles—are a way to own dia-                             when she was working for diamond miner
                                              diamonds because they reflect the light in a       TV] programs like ‘True Blood.’ I think this    monds without breaking the bank. A four-                           Leviev. “So many years of heat, pressure
                                              special way, flashing in a bright white. “If       look has become quite seductive.” Mr. Web-      carat rough diamond gold ring, for exam-                           and natural gasses have turned carbon into
                                              you see someone wearing a black diamond            sters says that one of his clients—a Russian    ple, fetches £3,200—much cheaper than a                            this amazing stone with all its natural crys-
                                              necklace, it catches your eye from the other       art collector—has commissioned him to           polished rock of the same size, which would                        tal shapes. It has a perfect raw beauty.”
                                              side of the room,” she said. “Unlike a white       make a £20,000 vampire ring that will in-       go for £10,500 to £250,000, depending on                               Diamond in the Rough sells its jewelry
                                              diamond, there are no rainbows, no internal        clude black diamonds. Mr. Webster added         its quality.                                                       at the Moussaieff stores in London and
                                              reflection. They possess this very special         that black diamonds have captured another,          Recently, however, rough diamonds have                         Geneva, with prices starting at £6,000 for a
                                              opaqueness.”                                       previously untapped audience: “Earlier this     started to go luxe too. De Beers’s Talisman                        ring with a sizable rough diamond. Many
                                                  Hollywood also has given black dia-            year I made a bespoke black diamond tie-        collection, which is based on rough dia-                           pieces include smaller, polished diamonds
                                              monds a boost. Sarah Jessica Parker                bar for Mickey Rourke, and Russell Brand is     monds and features beautiful, rustic-style                         as well. “There is a craze for everything
                                              donned a black diamond strand necklace by          a real fan of our black-diamond pieces. Men     medallions, pendants and rings, is definitely                      that is natural these days, and these are
                                              American jeweler Itay Malkin in the “Sex           are going mad for them—it’s the acceptable      not a budget option: A pair of yellow gold                         something different, a conversation piece,”
                                              and the City” movie, and Adrian Grenier            non-bling way to wear jewelery.”                earrings containing 7.41 carats of rough and                       said Alisa Moussaieff, Moussaieff’s manag-
                                              sported a similar one in this season’s finale          Black diamonds have a storied history.      polished stones costs £16,500.                                     ing director and owner.
                                              of the TV show “Entourage.” At the Basel-          In medieval Italy, they were known as the           Another leader in rough-luxe diamond                               What’s next for jewelery? Baselworld fea-
                                              world jewelery fair in March—a barometer           “stones of reconciliation.” A wave of a black   jewelery is American company Diamond in                            tured an array of purple-hued jewelery
                                              of what’s going to be hot in the coming            diamond in the face of an unhappy spouse        the Rough. Started four years ago by New                           made from stones like agate and amethyst.
                                              year—the pairing of black and white dia-           would, according to legend, clear things up.    York-based Anjanette Clisura and Daniel Es-                        In the U.K., Mayfair jeweler Mr. Webster
                                              monds was one of the strongest trends. Ac-         The Duke of Wellington admired them for         kapa, who felt there was something missing                         says people are already searching for some-
                                              cording to its organizers, the show featured       their opaque beauty and reportedly owned        in the market, the company now sells its                           thing edgier. “I’ve had huge demand for
                                              a lot of “unpretentious jewelery”—pieces           a black diamond weighing 12.25 carats. One      jewelry around the world. “I think that                            gray diamonds recently,” he said. “They’re
                                              that didn’t draw attention to the wearer           of the largest black diamonds in the world      rough is so appealing because you get to                           definitely going to be the new black.”
                                              and could be worn every day, such as those         today—the Spirit of de Grisogono—comes          see the stone exactly how nature has                                      —Jemima Sissons is a writer based in
                                              with dark or rough stones.                         in at a whopping 312 carats.                    formed it,” said Ms. Clisura, who became in-                                                            London.
                                                                                                     These show-stoppers are genuine black
                                                                                                 diamonds, which acquire their gloomy hue
                                                                                                 naturally because they have high concentra-     Arbitrage
                                                                                                 tions of dark crystals, such as sulphides.
                                                                                                 Manufacturers also can treat diamonds to
                                                                                                 make them black. Modern processes have          Marc Jacobs Lola perfume
                                                                                                 allowed them to enhance and change the
                                                                                                 color of poor-quality, muddy diamonds—
                                                                                                 which would never be sold in their natural                                  Local
                                                                                                 state—in a laboratory, using radiation or          City                     currency                  Œ
                                                                                                 heating. Both natural and treated black dia-
                                                                                                 monds are much cheaper than your run-of-           New York                  $92                      Œ62
                                                                                                 the-mill diamond. Whereas a one-carat
Amelia Troubridge; top, Stephen Webster (4)

                                                                                                 white diamond can range from £3,000 to             London                    £59                      Œ66
                                                                                                 £8,000, a natural black diamond costs
                                                                                                 £250-£450 a carat, and treated black dia-
                                                                                                 monds start at only £80-£120 a carat. Dia-         Hong Kong*                HK$780                   Œ68
                                                                                                 monds treated to become colors other than
                                                                                                 black cost from £500 to £2,000 a carat.            Paris                     Œ89                      Œ89
                                                                                                 (The real thing will cost you a small for-
                                                                                                 tune—“fancy color” natural diamonds, such
                                                                                                 as red, blue and yellow, are the most expen-       Frankfurt*                Œ89                      Œ89
                                                                                                 sive in the world).
                                                                                                     Rough diamonds are also becoming styl-         Rome                      Œ91                      Œ91             * only available
                                              Dita Von Teese wears an Art Deco ring with black   ish. In keeping with more austere times,                                                                                mid-November
                                              diamonds (£3,250) by Stephen Webster.              these natural stones are admired for their      Note: Prices of 100-ml bottle, plus taxes, as provided by retailers in each city, averaged and converted into euros.

                                              W6 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009             |   WEEKEND JOURNAL
Sewing a sequel at Vionnet
      S “ROCKY VII” PROVES, it’s          scared … she’s influenced every-         the original.
      hard to live up to the original     thing,” the designer says of Ms. Vi-         Of course, the current Givenchy
      but even harder to abandon          onnet’s work.                            under Riccardo Tisci bears no resem-
an established brand. This is true of         Thirteen years of designing wom-     blance to the former label of Hubert
fashion houses, too, which is why         en’s wear for Miuccia Prada have         de Givenchy. It’s just a brand—and a
we’re essentially up to “Dior V,”         given him a background in indepen-       successful one. Brands like Nina
“Givenchy V” and “Halston VI: The         dent women, though. Vionnet’s            Ricci, Halston and Rochas recently
Designer Strikes Back.”                   spring 2010 collection shown in          have been revolving doors for de-
                                          Paris last month walks a fine line be-   signers who set aside their artistic
                                          tween homage and modern life.            druthers to channel someone else’s.
On Style                                  Largely created from squares of fab-     Sometimes, as in the case of Balen-
                                          ric (right out of Vionnet textbooks),    ciaga with designer Nicolas Ghes-
CHRISTINA BINKLEY                         long tunics can also be worn as          quière, investors hit gold.
                                          short dresses. Sleeves are tied like         This isn’t the first attempt to re-
    Now another former haute cou-         scarves at the shoulders, and the        vive Vionnet. Previous investors
ture house is seeking ready-to-wear       scarf becomes a motif for shoes.         tried it in 2006 and 2007. So we’re
immortality with new backers and a            These are attractive clothes that    really talking here about “Vionnet
fresh designer. Testing the limits of     could be tossed in a suitcase. But be-   IV.” Mr. Marzotto, too, worries
the strategy, the brand in question       cause they’re labeled Vionnet, they      about missteps; as he details his
is Vionnet, a masterful label that        must be compared with the origi-         plans, he adds, “I’m still crossing fin-   Left to right: a 1936 Vionnet
you probably have never heard of.         nals. The new Vionnet is heavier and     gers every morning for Vionnet—            gown; Madeleine Vionnet; a

    Its founding designer, Madeleine      less elegant, without the magic of       crossing fingers with both hands.”         design from the new Vionnet.
Vionnet shuttered her business in
1939, and it stayed shut for six de-
cades. So while the name is vener-
ated in fashion circles, it’s not as if
every high-school girl is dying to
own a Vionnet bag.
    Yet earlier this year, Matteo Mar-
zotto bought the rights to the Vion-
net brand with his friend Gianni Cas-
tiglioni, chief executive of Marni.
Mr. Marzotto is the sixth-genera-
tion scion of an Italian textile family
and the former chief executive of
Valentino (now “Valentino III”).
“We have to re-interpret a bright
past, but not reproduce it,” he says.
    The reintroduction of Vionnet
comes just in time to take advantage
of the first-ever Vionnet retrospec-
tive at the Louvre’s Musée des Arts
Decoratifs in Paris. The exhibit of
130 dresses, with interactive expla-
nations of Vionnet’s techniques,
runs through Jan. 31. The show also
may remind the public that Coco
Chanel was not the only designer
who pioneered today’s modern,
comfortable clothing.
    Madeleine Vionnet popularized
the forgiving bias cut and dispensed
with buttons, zippers and hooks in
favor of draping and wrapping fab-
ric in comfortable forms; she
dressed Garbo and Dietrich. She cre-
ated clothing for women who trav-
eled, and her designs were so mod-
ern and influential that you can find
bits of them—wrap looks and drop-
waist dresses, for instance—in al-
most any store today. Her work is
studied in fashion schools with a rev-
erence akin to aviation’s regard for
Charles Lindbergh.
    Ms. Vionnet was paranoid when
it came to copies—she pioneered
dress-design copyrighting meth-
ods, cutting down on knock-offs.
And in 1952, she donated her entire
archive of dress samples, patterns
and photographs to what is now the
Musée des Arts Decoratifs. The mu-
seum’s curator, Pamela Golbin,
grins at the fortune. “We’ve got the
goods,” she says. “She gave us the
entire memory of her house.”
    The donation meant something
different for Vionnet’s new de-
signer, Rodolfo Paglialunga: He
lacked the benefit of an archive,
bringing a whole new meaning to
“inspired by.” He worked from text-
books, photographs and anything
else he could get his hands on.
    Ms. Golbin says she toured Mr.
Marzotto, Mr. Castiglioni and his
wife (Marni designer Consuelo Cas-
tiglioni), and even Mr. Marzotto’s
mother through the exhibit. But Mr.
Paglialunga says he was too shy to
request a special tour. “I just went
very quietly myself,” he says.
    “After I saw that, I was very

                                                                                                                        WEEKEND JOURNAL                 | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009   W7
v   Travel

                                                                                                                                                  Frank Heuer
Lobster                                                        L
                                                                                                                              Flatön, Sweden
                                                                        OW, BLACK CLOUDS swallowed the cliff-top church, hailstones
                                                                        like ball bearings pounded the little boat and the wind whipped up
                                                                        the slate-gray waves into a frenzy. All of a sudden, the Swedish lob-

                                                                        ster safari seemed not such a good idea.
                                                                            Not only were the elements against us, the seafood wasn’t on
                                                                        our side either. Most of the baskets hauled with much manpower
                                                               from the seabed were either empty or filled with a derisory selection of her-
                                                               mit crabs, undersized cod or starfish. When eventually the sight of our first
                                                               lobster brought a cheer from everyone on board, the caviar-like roe glisten-
                                                               ing on her belly meant we were legally bound to return her to the deep.
                                                                  “Don’t worry, they have hot dogs,” skipper Andreas Sveaberg joked, re-
                                                               ferring to our hotel restaurant, as the prospects of a self-caught meal
                                                                  Lobster safaris, which give landlubbers the chance to pluck their own
                                                               lobster dinner from the sea, are offered by several hotels along Sweden’s
                                                               Bohuslän coast. This intricate network of 8,000 islands, countless inlets
                                                               and scattered fishing villages is strung for 200 kilometers along Sweden’s
                                                               western seaboard from the Norwegian border south to Gothenburg, which
                                                               has developed a reputation as country’s gourmet seafood capital.
                                                                  On a fine day the views here are spectacular, with innumerable, moss-
Where foodies on the hunt for fresh                            covered skerries emerging through flat, blue waters bathed in soft, north-
                                                               ern light. Communities made up of wooden fishermen’s cottages painted

seafood come out of their shell                                mustard, white or deep Falu red, are strung along the coast. They include
                                                               Ingrid Bergman’s retreat in Fjällbacka, the windswept old herring port of
                                                               Klädesholmen and fashionable Marstrand, which is situated in the lee of a
                                                               17th-century fortress built for defense against Danes and Norwegians.
                                                                  Scandinavian relations may be more pacific these days, but fishermen
                                                               along Sweden’s west coast still complain about Nordic neighbors stealing
                                                               their seafood. Lobsters are known as “black gold” in reflection of the price
By Paul Ames                                                   the king of crustaceans fetches on markets in Gothenburg and Stockholm.
                                                                  For visitors hoping to get a taste of Swedish shellfish mania, the charm-
                                                               ing Handelsman Flink hotel on the island of Flatön offers a fall package for
                                                               lobster safaris that starts with a hearty lunch of fish soup and äggost, a local
                                                               dessert that translates as “egg-cheese.” Suitably nourished, guests head out
                                                               with the crew of a nine-meter boat for an afternoon spent pulling lobster
                                                               traps from the deep. Provided the expedition is successful, the hotel’s chef
                                                               will prepare the lobster for dinner upon return, while you relax in the sauna.
                                                                  Fortunately, the hotel provides its guests with fluorescent green oil-
                                                               skins, which may not win any prizes for sartorial elegance but will shut out
                                                               most of the weather screeching down the Skagerrak channel that runs be-
                                                               tween Sweden, Denmark and Norway on its way to the North Sea.
                                                                  “Yesterday we had a glorious day: sun, flat seas, lots of lobsters,” Mr.

                                                                                                                                                                                  Thörnströms kök
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Where to

                                                                                                                                                                                                    Handelsman Flink
                                                                                                                                                                                                    A cluster of mustard-colored

                                                                                  Paul Ames
                                                                                                                                                                                                    wooden houses built around an
                                                                                                                                                                                                    old general store, the hotel is known
                                                                                                                                                                                                    for its lobster safaris and restau-
                                                                                                                                                                                                    rant. Double with breakfast from
                                                                                                                                                                                                    1,780 kronor (Œ170); lobster safari
                                                                                                                                                                                                    package, 3,500 kronor p.p. (Œ335).
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Salt & Sill
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Hotel and restaurant situated on
                                                                                                                                                                                                    floating pontoons on the sea on
                                                                                                                                                                                                    the fishing island of Klädesholmen,
                                                                                                                                                                                                    which specializes in herring. Hotel
                                                                                                                                                                                                    rooms combine modern Scandina-
                                                                                                                                                                                                    vian design with spectacular views
                                                                                                                                                                                                    of the rocky coast. Doubles with
                                                                                                                                                                                                    breakfast from 1,590 kronor (Œ152).
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Hotel Flora
                                                                                                                                                                                                    A neat boutique hotel in a canal-
                                                                                  Jennie Lund

                                                                                                                                                                                                    side square on the edge of historic
                                                                                                                                                                                                    central Gothenburg. Doubles with
                                                                                                                                                                                                    breakfast from 1,050 kronor (Œ101).
Clockwise from left: Handelsman                                                                                                                                                                     www.hotelflora.se
Flink’s lobster safari boat in Flatön;                                                                                                                                                              Hotell Liseberg Barken Viking
freshly boiled Swedish lobster; Håkan                                                                                                                                                               Built in 1907, the sailing ship
Thörnström at his restaurant in                                                                                                                                                                     Viking once carried cargos of
Gothenburg; a fishnet at a boathouse                                                                                                                                                                Swedish timber to Australia. Now
in Bohuslän; fisherman Ivan Axelsson

                                                                                                                                                                                 Frank Heuer
                                                                                                                                                                                                    it’s moored permanently in
runs a lobster safari out of Resö.                                                                                                                                                                  Gothenburg, converted into a hotel.
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Doubles from 1,596 kronor (Œ153).
Sveaberg, the skipper, explained to one guest who seemed unamused as her                        ster menus. At Mr. Thörnström’s eponymous restaurant tucked away in a

surf-tossed complexion began to match the color of her green coveralls. Mr.                     residential neighborhood behind the Museum of Art, this year’s lobster                              Where to
Sveaberg and his shipmate, both locals from the west coast, had laid the                        menu kicked off with vanilla-glazed lobster claw with Jerusalem arti-
traps days in advance and baited them with herring. Each of the passengers                      chokes. It moved on to braised lobster with veal sweetbread and truffle, fol-
took turns pulling up a trap from the bottom by hand, but once we’d dragged                     lowed by lobster tail saffron rice with squid and mussels, and then a selec-
them on board, the professionals took over, carefully extracting the lobsters                   tion of Swedish cheese that includes “granbarksost” wrapped in the bark of                          Thörnströms Kök
to ensure that none of the safari-goers’ fingers risked claw-induced injury.                    Christmas trees. Finally, it finished with rum-flambéed pineapple.                                  Chef Håkan Thörnström, who
    Although there was no sign of the weather improving, our luck with the                          Food like this doesn’t come cheap, although the kronor’s recent slide                           makes modern Swedish cuisine
nets began to change when our boat, the Nephrops, edged out of the rela-                        against the euro has made Sweden more affordable for visitors from points                           based on local ingredients, has
tively sheltered waters between Flatön and Bokenäs islands into the mouth                       south. Pound and dollar holders must still dig deep. Combined with a wine                           cooked for the 60th birthday of King
of the Gullmaren fjord. By the time we paused for an on-board picnic of cof-                    menu that matches each course with top-class tipples from Germany, New                              Carl Gustaf and the Nobel banquet.
fee and cinnamon buns, we had three of the beauties safely stored on deck.                      Zealand, California, Cognac and the Loire Valley, dinner for one at Thörn-                          %46-31-162-066
The friendly group of 50-something professionals from Stockholm on our                          ströms Kök came to 1,520 kronor ($218).                                                             www.thornstromskok.com.
sister boat had done even better with four. Dinner was on.                                          Catching your own lobster is not exactly a low-cost alternative. The sa-
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Swedish Taste
    Swedes claim the salt levels and chilly waters of their west coast are per-                 fari package, which includes a one-night hotel stay, costs 3,500 kroner
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Home of what is arguably
fect for seafood. In the cold, experts say, shellfish grow more slowly, giving                  ($503) a head. That’s not including drinks, although they did throw in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Gothenburg’s most inventive
them a sweeter, more intense flavor. “Of all the lobsters I’ve tried, I think                   steaming mug of rum-infused tea waiting to greet our bedraggled group as
                                                                                                                                                                                                    cuisine. Chef Magnus Lindström
ours have the best quality,” says leading Gothenburg chef Håkan Thörn-                          we returned from our expedition. An even warmer welcome was awaiting
                                                                                                                                                                                                    serves up scallop terrine or wild
ström. “You can’t compare it.”                                                                  our lobsters. Set up on the jetty was a huge cauldron of bubbling broth.
                                                                                                                                                                                                    duck with ginger and sea buckthorn.
    Beneath the arches of Gothenburg’s fish market lies a dazzling display of                       Though the Lobster Institute, based in Maine, says lobsters, like insects,
pink shrimp, black-tipped crab claws, piles of oysters, crawling live cray-                     do not process pain, animal rights campaigners insist there is evidence that
fish, gleaming rows of haddock, hake and mackerel and, of course, lobster—                      the shellfish suffer. Nonetheless, the successful lobster safari-goers cheer-
either dull, black living specimens or vivid scarlet, fresh from the pot. The                   fully lined up to drop their catches into the pot. Minutes later the lobsters                       Sjömagasinet
market was constructed in 1874 beside the dock in the style of a gothic                         were lifted from the bouillon, shells transformed from dull black to pepper-                        Supreme seafood on Gothenburg’s
chapel and is known as the Feskekôka, meaning “fish church.”                                    red. In the wooden boathouse, we were given a crash course in how to re-                            riverfront. The late New York Times
    Traditionally, seafood was served simply and unadorned here. “You cook                      move claws and carapace cleanly, offered a nibble on the spindly legs, then                         journalist and food writer R.W.
it plain and you eat it plain,” explains Ann Katrin Ljung, food editor of the                   sent off to warm up in the hotel spa while dinner was prepared.                                     Apple Jr. listed it as one of his top 10
national daily Expressen. “You don’t fuss.”                                                         This being Scandinavia, guests should be prepared to discard their inhi-                        restaurants. Chef Leif Mannerström
    But over the past decade, things have been growing more sophisticated.                      bitions and mingle naked in the sauna with their crewmates without turn-                            is so well known in Sweden that he
In 1999, now legendary chef Leif Manneström won a Michelin star for Sjöma-                      ing as scarlet as the lobsters. More difficult was to rewind in the hot tub,                        has appeared on a postage stamp.
gasinet, a fish restaurant housed in a timber-framed waterfront building                        contemplating the tempestuous sea view without your mind drifting to the                            %46-31-775 -5920
that served as a warehouse for the Swedish East India Company. From then                        fate of the seafood in their cauldron.                                                              www.sjomagasinet.se
on, Gothenburg has been on the map as a gastronomic hot spot, where a                               By late September, the Nordic nights come down early and it was dark as
generation of younger chefs built reputations by combining the region’s su-                     we made our way to the hotel restaurant. Our lobster arrived, halved, accom-
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Known for the best meatballs in
perlative seafood with seasonal local roots, berries and herbs to produce a                     panied by a glass of Pouilly Fumé and adorned only by a bowl of hollandaise—
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Gothenburg, this neighborhood
fresh take on Swedish traditional cuisine.                                                      plain, simple and sea-fresh delicious. It was followed by a beautifully pre-
                                                                                                                                                                                                    restaurant serves Swedish clas-
    Today, Sweden’s second city boasts five Michelin star restaurants, with a                   sented dish of hake served with our lobster’s claws, pork belly, shredded
                                                                                                                                                                                                    sics like elk steak or ‘old man’s mix’
queue of others tipped to join the constellation of stars. Gothenburg’s culi-                   cabbage and pickled cucumber.
                                                                                                                                                                                                    (cured sprats and egg on rye bread).
nary kudos have helped put this elegant and cultured seaport firmly on Eu-                          After a finale of crème brûlée served with wild berries and a vivid orange
rope’s city-trip circuit, as an increasingly number of visitors come to stroll                  sorbet of sea buckthorn and washed down with a honey-scented glass of
its 18th-century avenues and tree-lined canals.                                                 American ice-wine, sleep came easy despite the gale still blowing outside.
    At the start of the lobster season in late September, the city’s top tables                 The lobster safari seemed like a fine idea after all.                                                                        –Paul Ames
compete to honor the “black gold” from the coast with specially crafted lob-                                                      —Paul Ames is a writer based in Brussels.

                                                                                                                                   WEEKEND JOURNAL              |   FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009                                      W9
v   Interview

                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Joan Villaplana
The man behind the magic
By Kati Krause                           mas proclaiming him a member of           truck full of TV sets in a convention

          HEN THE PORTUGUESE             associations like the International       center than one TV set on a football
          magician Luis de Matos         Brotherhood of Magicians. His Mági-       pitch.
          made an elephant and a Fer-    cus shop can be visited at c/Diput-
rari disappear in front of 12,000 peo-   ació, 274, in Barcelona.                      Q: What has been your most dif-
ple in a Lisbon sports stadium for                                                 ficult commission?
the Expo ’98, when the Spaniard             Q: How would you define your               That was the presentation of a
Mag Lari cut a person in eight           job title?                                new Volkswagen Golf convertible in
pieces in his 2007 show Secrets, and        You could call me an artisan of        the now-defunct Sala Scala theater
when a magical chest spat fire,          magic or a creator of illusions.          in Barcelona, around 1990. We had
smoke and objects during a recent                                                  to make the car vanish and reap-
production at the Teatre Nacional           Q: That sounds very artistic.          pear. It was extremely complicated
de Catalunya, Carles Ferrandiz was          Yes, but when you do a job for a       because the theater’s layout was re-
never far away.                          professional showman the work             ally weird. The stage was 30 meters
    He might shy away from the lime-     isn’t that artistic anymore. Imagina-     long but very narrow and grew out
light, but Mr. Ferrandiz’s invisible     tion ends when the show beings.           into the room, which meant there
hand is behind some of the most                                                    were people sitting around it. The                                                                                   Carles Ferrandiz
spectacular magic tricks performed          Q: What do your commissions            same presentation was then taken                                                                                     in his workshop,
in Spain and the rest of Europe over     usually look like?                        to Madrid and I spent a month adapt-                                                                                 in front of one
the past 40 years. Together with his        The most creative work is when         ing it to the different stage.                                                                                       of his magical
team of six, the owner of the Mági-      a professional comes to me with an                                                                                                                             devices.
cus magic shop in Barcelona manu-        idea but doesn’t know how to                Q: How much do you charge to
factures devices for magicians and       achieve it. That’s imagination and in-    make a car vanish?                           Absolutely not. What has                        However, the less knowledgeable
theater productions, invents magic       vention. It’s also more fun and chal-       About Œ20,000.                         changed is the way of performing                    they are, the more magical the show
tricks and makes objects and people      lenging than inventing devices for                                                 magic. There are fewer shows, but                   becomes. I’ve got old books on
disappear upon request.                  the shop. Any commission depends             Q: Do you go to see the shows         the problem is not magic: there are                 magic here that teach ways of doing
    Mr. Ferrandiz is the son of Span-    on the circumstances—money,               where your devices are being             fewer shows in general. There is                    tricks that would be impossible to-
ish magician José María Ferrandiz,       space, the situation on stage. For ex-    used?                                    hardly any varieté left. I don’t think              day. Nobody would buy it.
and as a young man he was disen-         ample, what if the stage is empty? I         Of course, I try to go as often as    it’s a lack of interest; it has to do
chanted with magic for the disrup-       can do magic but not wonders.             possible. I find it interesting. And I   with an interpretation, taken by the                   Q: So increased knowledge has
tive effect it had on their family. He                                             learn: sometimes artists, when they      authorities, of what is culture and                 made magic look less magical?
decided to become a mechanical en-          Q: Because if it’s empty…?             rehearse with the device, change         what isn’t. I think juggling is as                     Yes, but it has also led magicians
gineer—only to find himself manu-           If there are other people or           things. That gives me great satisfac-    much culture as the recital of po-                  to put in more effort. Of course it
facturing pieces for his father’s        items, you have more possibilities. I     tion. People often ask me whether a      ems—if it is done well. Culture                     has lost something wonderful: the
shop. The two formed a partner-          need dancers, music, light, or at         magician can still impress me, since     doesn’t always have to be sublime                   innocence. But I think that before,
ship, and Mr. Ferrandiz warmed to        least a couple of plants!                 I know all the tricks. I reply that if   and deep.                                           magicians didn’t use to be artists—
the subject. Now 61 years old, he has                                              the show is good, I’m impressed. On                                                          they were simply people perform-
made more things disappear than             Q: So the difficulty of a produc-      the other hand, when I see a bad            Q: Do you think there are cul-                   ing tricks that no one else knew. To-
he can remember.                         tion doesn’t depend on the size of        show, I suffer.                          tural differences in the world re-                  day’s great magicians are first and
    We met Carles Ferrandiz in his       the object?                                                                        garding magic?                                      foremost artists.
Barcelona office, replete with magi-        No, it’s about the situation and lo-      Q: Do you think that magic is an         I think that people all over the                  —Kati Krause is a writer based in
cal devices, ancient books and diplo-    cation. It can be easier to produce a     art form in decline?                     world enjoy seeing a good show.                                                Barcelona.

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W12 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009              | WEEKEND JOURNAL
v   Film

                                                                                                                                                                                                                               To to bottom, Film Frame; s 2009 Westgate Film Services, Sony PIctures
 Jim Carrey as Scrooge in ‘A Christmas Carol.’

‘A Christmas Carol’: What the dickens?
      O PUT IT bluntly, if Scroogely,   unnature of that technology. Like         eternity. This sad excuse for family
      Disney’s 3-D animated ver-        “The Polar Express” and “Beowulf,”        entertainment tries to enshrine a
      sion of “A Christmas Carol” is    which were also directed by Mr. Ze-       classic while defacing it.
a monstrosity. The pace is predomi-     meckis, “A Christmas Carol” em-
                                                                                      ‘The Men Who Stare At Goats’
nantly glacial—that alone would be      ploys a motion-capture process that
                                                                                       “The Men Who Stare At Goats”
enough to cook the goose of this pre-   translates the movements of live ac-
                                                                                  stars George Clooney, Jeff Bridges,
mature holiday turkey—and the           tors into fantasy images. For its de-
                                                                                  Ewan McGregor and Kevin Spacey.
tone is joyless, despite an extended    tractors, including me, motion cap-
                                                                                  All of them look like they’re having
passage of bizarre laughter, several    ture has long been synonymous
                                                                                  lots of fun, and their enjoyment
dazzling flights of digital fancy, a    with a special sort of semi-lifeless-
                                                                                  promises to be infectious. After a
succession of striking images and       ness—body language that is vaguely
                                                                                  while, though, the only sign of infec-
Jim Carrey’s voicing of Scrooge plus    impoverished, faces with limited
                                                                                  tion may be an urge to squirm, fol-
                                        mobility and dead eyes.
                                                                                  lowed by nagging doubts. You may
                                            In the global marketing push for
Film                                    his new film, the director has dis-
                                                                                  wonder if this screen version of the
                                                                                  book of the same name is as un-
                                        missed such problems as essentially
JOE MORGENSTERN                         solved. But they haven’t been solved
                                                                                  funny and strangely mushy as it
                                                                                  seems, or if you’re simply failing to
                                        at all; they’ve only been mitigated,
                                                                                  lock in on its frequency. But there’s
half a dozen other roles. “Why so and partially masked by the novelty
                                                                                  no steady signal to lock in on, no
coldhearted?” Scrooge’s nephew, value of 3-D. Motion capture re-
                                                                                  firm ground beneath the story of a
Fred, asks the old skinflint. The mains an impediment to capturing
                                                                                  secret U.S. Army unit that was dedi-
same question could be asked of emotion. “A Christmas Carol” soars
                                                                                  cated to developing psychic powers.
Robert Zemeckis, who adapted and only when Scrooge is in temporal
                                                                                  It’s a goof about goofballs, a comedy
directed the film, and of the com- transit—one lyrical sequence flies
                                                                                  that takes self-pleasure wherever it
pany that financed it. Why was sim- him back to his boyhood village.
                                                                                  can be found.
ple pleasure frozen out of the pro- And some of the action, as well as a                                                      George Clooney stars in ‘The Men Who Stare At Goats.’
                                                                                       Jon Ronson, the book’s author,
duction? Why does the beloved cataclysmic climax fueled by hell-
                                                                                  said the story was true; ostensibly
story feel embalmed by technology? fires and hellwinds, will scare little
                                                                                  sane citizens really did try to create
And why are its characters as insub- kids out of their little wits.                                                           that, of course. It’s a series of testi-   lem is resolved simply by reducing
                                                                                  a force of American soldiers with su-
stantial as the snowflakes that seem        Dickens framed his novella as a                                                   monials and expressions of love            the volume in his earpiece. At an-
                                                                                  perpowers, warrior monks who
to be falling on the audience?          moral tale. Disney sells it as a thrill                                               from cast members, many of whom            other point he asks, in a tone that
                                                                                  could make themselves invisible,
   A catch-all answer—and by now ride—“The Polar Express” with a re-                                                          had idolized Michael when they             also verges on plaintiveness, “I’m
                                                                                  walk through walls and, as a train-
an all-too-familiar one—lies in the ally bad Santa. Well, it’s a free coun-                                                   were kids. It’s a pastiche that pulls      trying to conserve my voice. Please
                                                                                  ing exercise if nothing else, kill a
                                                            try, and a public-                                                together live footage and pieces of a      understand.” Singers almost always
                                                                                  goat by staring at it. Yet demonstra-
                           Michael Jackson in ‘This Is It.’ domain       prop-                                                marvelous black-and-white homage           conserve their voice during rehears-
                                                                                  ble truth wasn’t the issue. The plea-
                                                            erty. Neverthe-                                                   to Hollywood that was to be played         als, so his plea falls on sympathetic
                                                                                  sures of the book came from the cra-
                                                            less, you can al-                                                 against “Smooth Criminal” in the           ears. Still, there’s a strong sense of a
                                                                                  ziness of the schemes, the fervor of
                                                            most see the vari-                                                show—the Rita Hayworth of “Gilda”          fragile man at the center of sensory
                                                                                  the crackpots who devised them
                                                            ous rooms on the                                                  tossing Michael her glove, Hum-            pummeling, trying to conserve
                                                                                  and the steady skepticism of the
                                                            Disneyland                                                        phrey Bogart scowling at him or fir-       what’s left of himself.
                                                                                  prose. In the movie, which was di-
                                                            ride-to-be while                                                  ing a tommy gun. And it’s an ex-
                                                                                  rected by Grant Heslov from a
                                                            the movie makes                                                   pertly packaged—brilliantly pack-
                                                                                  screenplay by Peter Straughan, the                                                      WSJ.com
                                                            its way from Vic-                                                 aged, considering how quickly the
                                                                                  two main crackpots, played by Mr.
                                                            torian past to fun-                                               job was done—phantasmagoria that
                                                                                  Clooney and Mr. Bridges, have be-
                                                            house       future.
                                                                                  come arch charmers, and the tone is
                                                                                                                              emphasizes, quite convincingly, the         Opening this week in Europe
                                                            (Maybe the ride’s                                                 energy that Michael could still draw
                                                                                  New Age whimsy, with absurdist                                                          n (500) Days of Summer Belgium, Croatia
                                                            sound           de-                                               from whatever was fueling his
                                                                                  overtones by way of the Coen broth-                                                     n A Christmas Carol Denmark, Germany,
                                                            sign-to-be is why                                                 wraith-thin body.
                                                                                  ers and Wes Anderson. One of the su-                                                      Finland, Norway, Romania, Sweden, U.K.
                                                            the Ghost of                                                          In most of the footage we see,
                                                                                  perpowers under study involves re-                                                      n A Serious Man Austria, Italy
                                                            Christmas                                                         the star, like the superb profession-
                                                                                  mote viewing by means of extrasen-                                                      n Bright Star U.K.
                                                            Present laughs so                                                 als around him, already knows all
                                                                                  sory perception. I wish I could have                                                    n Coco Before Chanel Greece, Finland
                                                            long and mania-                                                   his moves and does them dazzlingly.
                                                                                  viewed this movie remotely, or not                                                      n Julie & Julia Spain
                                                            cally.) In the tur-                                               (Many of those moves must have
                                                                                  at all.                                                                                 n Land of the Lost Norway
                                                            gid stretches be-                                                 been as deeply imprinted in his mus-
                                                            tween action se-                     ‘This Is It’                 cles as they were in his tortured           n New York, I Love You Portugal
                                                            quences,        the       After all the media madness             psyche.) Nevertheless, “This Is             n Public Enemies Italy
                                                            drama, or what’s      about Michael Jackson over all the          It”—how eerie that the show’s               n Sin Nombre Norway
                                                            left of it, makes     years and decades, it comes as bit-         bland title could become so tersely         n The Informant! Czech Republic, Germany,
                                                            its way with such     tersweet news—though maybe not              apt—gives us a few glimpses of                Poland
                                                            ponderous, self-      sweet, depending on one’s attitude          Michael Jackson’s struggles during          n The Men Who Stare at Goats Greece,
                                                            important art-        toward the late King of Pop—that he         the rehearsal process.                        Italy, U.K.
                                                            istry         that    lives vividly in “This Is It,” a spectac-       He stops at one point to say, halt-     Source: IMDB
                                                            Scrooge’s             ular record of rehearsals for a show        ingly, “What I’m trying to hear is          WSJ.com subscribers can read reviews of
                                                            present threat-       that wasn’t to be.                          like a fist in my ear.” It’s more of a      these films and others at WSJ.com/FilmReview
                                                            ens to become an          Kenny Ortega’s film is more than        plea than a complaint, and the prob-

                                                                                                                       WEEKEND JOURNAL                 | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009                           W13
v  Top Picks

Berlin Art Nouveau exhibit crawls with mysterious fauna
    Berlin: The Bröhan Museum,            vasses depicting the sensual side of
discreetly located across from the        flora and fauna. Animals had a fea-
city’s Charlottenburg Palace, is one      tured role in the movement, and Ju-
of Germany’s best niche museums.          gendstil designers slid them up,
Blessed with a comprehensive col-         down and off the evolutionary lad-
lection of Art Nouveau and Art Deco       der, giving them human, plant-like,
objects, first assembled by a West        or even mineral, characteristics.
Berlin industrialist in the 1960s and         The curators, reaching into hid-
’70s, the museum is a knickknack          den corners of their permanent col-
lover’s paradise. It is also a serious    lection, present animal-themed
institution, with a mission to investi-   works that are both hilarious and
gate the origins and manifestations       hypnotic. A sea-green ceramic vase,
of modernity in the decorative arts.      made around 1900 by Amphora, a
This fall, the museum has mounted         now-defunct Bohemian firm, has
a special exhibition about the Art        menacing cat heads around its rim,
Nouveau period, drawing primarily         which function as what could be
on German sources, called “Pea-           called predatory mock-handles. A
cock, Dragonfly and Bat: Art Nou-         1903 metal candelabra features a
veau’s Mysterious Fauna.”                 candlestick holder rising, like a car-
    Jugendstil—the German varia-          toon thought bubble, out of a bat’s
tion of Art Nouveau—became an es-         head; while an 1896 glass goblet has
tablished style in the last few years     dragonfly wings for a stem.
of the 19th century, extending an in-         Some of these objects, like porce-
fluence throughout northern Eu-           lain owls meant to resemble sad chil-
rope. Named after a Munich maga-          dren, have crossed the dividing line
zine called “Jugend,” or “Youth,”         between fun and kitsch. A few, how-
German Art Nouveau, like Art Nou-         ever, appeal to us today as genuine
veau everywhere, tried to break           works of art, especially those made
away from stiff, ornate historical        by Copenhagen’s Royal Porcelain
styles by deriving inspiration from       Factory. The single best piece in the
the natural world. Owing something        show is a Danish decorative plate de-
to the theories of Charles Darwin,        picting jellyfish at sea, floating like

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Martin Adam, Berlin
and to the Paris of Toulouse-Lau-         clouds in the sky.
trec, Art Nouveau remade nature’s                                 —J.S. Marcus
relationship with reality, turning            Until Feb. 14
vases, tables and tableware into can-         www.broehan-museum.de                                                               Shell with coral stems by Johann Lötz Witwe, on show at the Bröhan Museum in Berlin.

Vienna’s Kunsthalle revisits 1989; the end of history or the beginning of the future?
                                                                                                                                                          doms were in short supply in the          be seen on YouTube): “It’s never too
   Vienna: In 1989, the Berlin Wall       Beginning of the Future” helps to an-                                  that peace and bloodless revolution      USSR. Couples would wash them             late, it’s never too late, to tell the su-
crumbled. But what else happened?         swer that question. At the entrance                                    that year didn’t stream forth dom-       and hang them to dry in their bath-       perpower to stop and meditate.”
A new show at the Kunsthalle, enti-       is a series of panels: 1989 around the                                 ino-like the world over. But this of-    rooms for re-use.                             Even more fundamentally, Neo
tled “1989: The End of History or the     world, a year in pictures. It shows                                    ten wry group show of 35 artists             The show doesn’t stop here, as        Rauch’s socialist-realist paintings
                                                                                                                 from 20 countries makes connec-          one might expect, but also extends        of parallel worlds question whether
                                                                                                                 tions to 1989’s unexpected effects.      to more familiar forms of discon-         we’re even able to make sense of the
                                                                                                                     The exhibit sidesteps a whole-       tent in the West. Seen alongside          recent past. Likewise, the idea that
                                                                                                                 sale condemnation of life under to-      works from post-communist coun-           history itself is suspect pervades
                                                                                                                 talitarianism, though there’s some       tries, however, the similarities be-      Sophie Calle’s ephemeral photo-
                                                                                                                 of that, too. Ilya and Emilia Kabakov    tween the two become unnerving.           graphs of East Berlin (1996),
                                                                                                                 recreate mindless bureaucracy in         The Norwegian graphic novelist and        Stephan Huber’s imaginary world
                                                                                                                 their installation, “The Big Archive”    painter    Hariton      Pushwagner        maps (2009) and the film “Video-
                                                                                                                 (1993). A room-sized labyrinth of cu-    sketched endless identical high-          gram of a Revolution” (1992) by
                                                                                                                 bicles, papered over meticulously        rises in his novel “Soft City”            Harun Farocki and Andrei Ujica.
                                                                                                                 with sketches and notes, eventually      (1968-76). Take away the cars, how-           Footage, both professional and
                                                                                                                 leads the viewer to nothing. In addi-    ever, and these same buildings            amateur, of the capture, trial and ex-
                                                                                                                 tion to a sense of frustration, what’s   could be concrete high-rises ubiqui-      ecution of Romanian dictator Nico-
                                                                                                                 also created here is a nostalgia for     tous in the former Eastern Bloc,          lae Ceausescu in late December of
                                                                                                                 the safe, nearly cozy dimension of       stretching to infinity.                   1989, is spliced together. What be-
                                                                                                                 communism. Memos are beautifully             Nam June Paik’s “Good Morning,        gins as a staged media circus grows
                                                                                                                 sketched, points of emphases             Mr. Orwell,” a taped variety show         grotesque and surreal. And even
                                                                                                                 traced over in pastel felt-tip. The
                                                                                    Photo by Jan Versnel s VBK

                                                                                                                                                          which aired to 10 million American        though Ceausescu’s regime fell
                                                                                                                 space is timeless and free from the      and French viewers on New Year’s          nearly 20 years ago, the video still
                                                                                                                 pressures of modern life.                Day 1984, was conceived in re-            feels remarkably immediate. The
                                                                                                                     Boris Mikhailov’s photo series,      sponse to George Orwell’s “1984.”         past, it seems, may still be in flux.
                                                                                                                 “Salt Lake” (1986), is captioned         It’s hard not to sing along during                                —Helen Chang
 ‘The Big Archive’ (1993), installation
                                                                                                                 with anecdotes on the absurdities of     Allen Ginsberg’s “Do the Meditation           Until Feb. 7
 by Ilya and Emilia Kabakov.
                                                                                                                 everyday life. One explains that con-    Rock” segment (parts of which can             www.kunsthallewien.at

Old master artists draw attention at London’s Dulwich Picture Gallery
   London: It’s always worth mak-         British watercolors.                                                   little satyrs, but this benign image     architectural detail. It hangs near Gi-
ing the trip to the Dulwich Picture          The Dulwich installation is as                                      of a goat-footed woman surprised         acomo Balla’s abstract red and blue
Gallery in southeast London, if           plain as can be, with simply                                           me.                                      gouache and graphite study “Line of
only to look again at the Old Mas-        framed pictures displayed on a                                             Other treats include: van Gogh’s     Speed” (circa 1913). And don’t miss
ter paintings in the permanent col-       dark, chestnut-colored wall,                                           drawing of his father’s vicarage         the creepy, technically highly accom-
lection. But currently there’s also       which makes it possible to concen-                                     (circa 1884); a very tactile Ingres      plished “The Snake Charmer”
“Drawing Attention: Rembrandt,            trate exclusively on the images.                                       study of drapery; and a strange,         (1866) by Edward John Poynter,
Tiepolo, Van Gogh, Picasso and            And some of these are very splen-                                      gory Delacroix “The Bride of Lam-        which contrasts in its liveliness
more Master Drawings from the             did. Among the Italian drawings,                                       mermoor” (circa 1826). This is           with the Pre-Raphaelite Brother-
Art Gallery of Ontario.” This long-       Giambattista Tiepolo’s “A Reclin-                                      matched by Fuseli’s pen and brown        hood’s pallid lily-pad ladies, such as
winded title has the merit of show-       ing Male Nude” (1745) is worth a                                       ink double-sided study of “A Stand-      “Ariadne” (circa 1867) by Edward
ing the catholicity of this selec-        look, if only to see the details of                                    ing Nude Figure, Seen from Behind.”      Burne-Jones, hanging nearby.
tion of about a hundred of the best       modeling and shading that were                                         The mere detail of the pointed ears                                 —Paul Levy
works on paper drawn from Cana-           later assimilated into his grand                                       tells you this creature is demonic.         Until Jan. 17
da’s best collection of (mostly Eu-       ceiling paintings. His son Domeni-                                         A lovely 1905-07 charcoal repre-        www.dulwichpicturegallery.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  s Art Gallery of Ontario

ropean and British) drawings. A           co’s jolly, playful “Satyrs and Saty-                                  sentation of a farmhouse by Piet         org.uk
grant made in 1969 allowed a cura-        resses in a Landscape” remedied a                                      Mondrian indicates that the artist
tor in Canada early access to what        gap in my own classical educa-                                         was more interested in the vertical
was still a buyers’ market in many        tion—I suppose there had to be fe-                                     lines of the trees and the horizon-      ‘Portrait of a Girl’ (1917) by Egon
areas, from French drawings to            male satyrs in order for there to be                                   tals of the house than he was in its     Schiele on show at the Dulwich.

W14 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009               |   WEEKEND JOURNAL
v   Taste
Masterpiece / By Tom Nolan

                                                        The Tycoon’s Companion
    When F. Scott Fitzgerald died     days you got somebody’s plot and       the studio, Hobby the former Uni-      himself a hack.” For his own occa-     with his companion, Sheilah Gra-
in Los Angeles in 1940, he’d been     a smart secretary and gulped Ben-      versity of Pennsylvania student        sional movie “polish jobs,” Fitzger-   ham, to visit the newly married
laboring for a year and a half on     zedrine ‘structure’ at her six or      adopts “the foreign locu-              ald was paid $1,200 a week. “But       West and his wife Eileen at their
“The Last Tycoon,” a novel about      eight hours every week. The direc-     tion”—reminiscent of a Yiddish         the irony of having Pat embody         North Hollywood home. By then
a charismatic movie producer          tor took care of the gags.”            or old-country Jewish accent—he        Scott’s mercurial mood and finan-      Fitzgerald the alcoholic romantic
named Monroe Stahr. Published            A decade after the coming of        feels will find favor with the old     cial instability was appealing.”       was in undeniable professional
posthumously, this uncompleted        talkies, though, the gags have         mogul: “I want only one thing . . .       The more Hobby stories he           and physical decline. West the hy-
manuscript would be called—by,        grown thin. “All of [his stuff]        I should go on the lot anytime.        did, the more Fitzgerald liked         perrealist was in gratifying as-
among others, Edmund Wilson—          was old,” a script-department          From nothing. Only to be there.        his amoral protagonist. To the         cent: He’d gotten the hang of
the finest work of fiction ever       man notes of Pat’s material, “and      Should bother nobody. Only help        author these vignettes were hu-        scriptwriting and was doing well,
written about Hollywood.              some didn’t make sense.” When a        a little from nothing if any young     mor sketches, and so they still        with his weekly rate just raised
    On weekends dur-                                 studio executive        person wants advice.”                  seem: some of them semislap-           to $600.
ing those same cre-                                  named Jack Bern-            When Berners the studio exec-      stick, some surprisingly poi-             Fitzgerald had his fatal heart
ative months,                     Meet               ers casts his gaze      utive denies him an assignment         gnant, and some flashing with          attack on Dec. 21, 1940, at age
Fitzgerald dashed                F. Scott            on this perennial       with the topical brushoff, “Good       unexpected menace like a cute                        44. “The Last Tycoon,”
off (for quick cash)                                 supplicant, “he saw     luck, Pat. Anyhow we’re not in Po-     animal that suddenly snarls.                           edited and with a
a batch of tales in-         Fitzgerald’s            a sort of whipped       land,” which the Na-                                                                          foreword by Fitzger-
volving a much dif-           Pat Hobby.             misery in Pat’s eye     zis have just overrun,                                                                        ald’s friend Edmund
ferent Hollywood                                     that reminded him       the author notes:                                                                            Wilson, would be pub-
type: a down-at-                                     of his own father.      “‘Good you’re not,’                                                                        lished in 1941. “The Pat
heels scriptwriter named Pat          Pat had been in the money be-          said Pat under his                                                                           Hobby Stories,” with
Hobby. The 17 Hobby episodes,         fore Jack was out of college—          breath. ‘They’d slit                                                                          an introduction by Es-
printed in Esquire magazine be-       with three cars and a chicken          your gizzard.’”                                                                                quire’s Arnold Ging-
tween 1939 and 1941 and later col- over every garage. Now his                    Pat was “a com-                                                                            rich, wouldn’t be-
lected into “The Pat Hobby Sto-       clothes looked as if he’d been         plete rat,” Fitzgerald                                                                         come a book until

                                                                                                   Ryan Inzana
ries” (Scribner), complement          standing at Hollywood and Vine         told his Esquire edi-                                                                          1962.
“The Last Tycoon” and fill out his for three years.”                         tor, but not sinister.                                                                            Nathanael West,
vision of the movie-town that fed        Forty-nine years old, twice di-     (His offenses are al-                                                                         37, and his 27-year-
and inspired him in his final         vorced (“they had both given up        most always found out                                                                        old wife were killed in
years. The unfinished “Tycoon” is     asking for alimony”), Hobby—           and foiled.) And he has                                                                 a road accident in El Cen-
a masterpiece of modern-roman-        once a $2,500-a-week man, now          pride: He doesn’t think of himself         “The Pat Hobby Stories,” with      tro, Calif., the day after Fitzger-
tic tragedy. “The Pat Hobby Sto-      lucky to get $250—prolongs his         as washed-up but as “an old-           its odd mix of guffaws and cha-        ald’s death. As Pat Hobby said in
ries” is an acerbic comedy—one        “career” through wheedling,            timer”—a badge of honor and            grin, is unique in the literature of   a different context, “That’s pic-
where the laughs often stick in       pleading and lying. He cadges          term of endearment on the movie-       Hollywood. It even sounds a few        tures. . . . You’re up—you’re down—
your throat.                          ideas, steals others’ work to          lot away from which he’s lost.         grim echoes of Nathanael West’s        You’re in, you’re out. Any old-
    “He was a writer but he had       present as his own, even tries             Hobby served “as a punching        apocalyptic 1939 novel “The Day        timer knows.”
never written much, nor even read     his hand at blackmail. No ploy is      bag” for his creator’s frustrations,   of the Locust.”
all the ‘originals’ he worked from,”  too low.                               wrote Fitzgerald’s secretary               Fitzgerald was friends with        Mr. Nolan is the editor of Ross
Fitzgerald recorded of Hobby, “be-       Seizing on a chance encounter       Frances Kroll Ring: “Pat was not       West, another transplanted au-         Macdonald’s “The Archer Files:
cause it made his head bang to        with a studio honcho named Mar-        Scott, nor did Scott, even in his      thor employed by the studios. In       The Complete Short Stories of
read much. But the good old silent    cus to beg for a pass back into        lowest moments, ever consider          late 1940, Fitzgerald often drove      Lew Archer, Private Investigator.”

Bookshelf / By William Anthony Hay

                                                                 Hammer, No Sickle
     Benjamin Disraeli described           In the late 1980s, the Soviet     loved Germany so much that he          for French ambitions in Europe,        bers—long the beneficiaries of Ger-
the Franco-Prussian War that           bloc was engaging in a process        was glad there were two of             Mrs. Thatcher found herself mar-       man largess—that they would not
brought about Germany’s unifica-       of slow reform, but the possibil-     them. François Mitterand and           ginalized. Mr. Kohl also chipped       lose out to East Germany.
tion in 1871 as “the German revolu-    ity of repression was never far       Margaret Thatcher both joined          away at Mr. Gorbachev’s objec-            The costs of reunification—
tion, a greater political event than   away. East Germany remained           Mr. Gorbachev in opposing Ger-         tions, eventually even winning his     combined with such checkbook di-
the French.” It turned out to be a     the most authoritarian Soviet sat-    man unification. The U.S., for its     acceptance of a united Germany’s       plomacy—hobbled the German
shrewd claim, given the two            ellite. Its leaders feared that       part, had long embraced a policy       continued membership in NATO.          economy for a generation, making
world wars that followed. But the      Mikhail Gorbachev’s policy of per-    of preferring the divided-Ger-             At home, Mr. Kohl used the         Germany anything but the super-
German reunification of 1989           estroika—a cautious loosening of      many status quo.                                        skills of a ward      power that many had feared. In-
seems less a revolution in Disrae-     Communist Party control over             Washington became                                    heeler to play Ger-   deed, worries about a reunited Ger-
li’s sense than a restoration.         the economy and political life—       more engaged after                                      man politicians off   many were appeased, in part, by
Rather than setting into motion        would unleash forces impossible       Nov. 9, however, and                                    against one an-       the crippling burdens that the
yet another round of great-power                                             Mr. Bush ended up hav-                                  other and to align    country took on merely to end its
rivalry, the end of Germany’s divi-                                          ing the fewest qualms,                                  himself with his      own division.
sion brought about changes that                      1989                    among Western lead-                                    supporters in the         Ms. Sarotte makes clear that
extended democratic stability                  By Mary Elise Sarotte         ers, about reunifica-                                  East. Monetary         1989 was a hinge moment that
through Eastern and Central Eu-                                              tion. Mr. Baker pri-                                   union—requiring a      moved history in a better direc-
                                         (Princeton, 321 pages, $29.95)
rope. That Europe is no longer a                                             vately noted that for                                  one-to-one ex-         tion. Despite the literal costs to
flashpoint in world politics is a                                            the past 40 years Amer-                                change rate for the    Germany, the events she de-
measure of just how successful         to control. The citizens of East-     ica had wanted a free                                  deutsche mark, de-     scribes brought considerable
the transformation has been.           ern Europe were already restless,                                                                                   benefits. German reunification
                                                                             Europe; with a united                                  spite huge differ-
                                                                                                                                                           became a model for peacefully
     In “1989: The Struggle to Cre-    seeing ever more vividly—thanks       Germany, he saw, the                                   ences in the value
                                                                                                                                                           transferring democratic institu-
ate Post-Cold War Europe,” Mary        in part to global technology—         U.S. would have a                                      of East and West
                                                                                                                                                           tions to the former Soviet bloc.
Elise Sarotte charts the events of     how materially deprived they          greater role than Mr.                                  Germany’s cur-
                                                                                                                                                           NATO and the European Union
that momentous year and their          were and how unfree.                  Gorbachev in Europe’s                                  rency—was a po-        pressed aspiring members to
astonishing effects. With the col-         China’s brutal crackdown on       destiny.                                               tent lure. It helped   match their standards of trans-
lapse of East Germany’s commu-         protesters at Tiananmen Square           Thus Mr. Bush                                    to sell the idea that     parency and to institute the rule
nist dictatorship, Helmut Kohl,        on June 3, 1989, provided an alter-   became Mr.                                    East Germany could be ab-       of law, easing the transition
West Germany’s chancellor,             native to perestroika that fit        Kohl’s partner in                      sorbed into existing West Ger-         from totalitarianism. Many ana-
shrewdly played events to the ad-      more closely with the history of      overcoming the broad resistance        man structures.                        lysts predicted a return to the
vantage of the West. He managed        Communist rule. But East Ger-         to German reunification. He and            Indeed, money played a key         instability of the 1920s and
to absorb the “other” Germany          man authorities—in a fatal miscal-    his American ally had the advan-       part in the whole process. Mr.         1930s or the pre-1914 rivalry
within the Federal Republic de-        culation—failed to seize on it. At    tage of a clear objective: democ-      Kohl realized that Mr. Gorbachev       among great powers. Instead,
spite resistance from the Soviet       a tipping-point moment, they          racy, with a market-based econ-        would insist on payment for his        they saw peace, rising standards
Union and from other European          chose not to repress mass pro-        omy for all of Germany and, it         concessions. The Soviet Union was      of living and the spread of de-
powers. Mr. Kohl found an invalu-      tests in Leipzig on Oct. 9, 1989.     was hoped, for the rest of the         feeling severe economic strains,       mocracy. A beneficent European
able partner in George H.W. Bush       Several Eastern European re-          Eastern Bloc, too. No one else         and it could not count on either       order that had collapsed with
and James Baker, Mr. Bush’s sec-       gimes began making concessions        had a better idea.                     the U.S. or other major European       World War I returned when the
retary of state, who came to see       that included opening their bor-         Mr. Kohl persistently caught        countries for help. The burden         Berlin Wall fell. It is an achieve-
a democratic Germany within            ders to the West. The spirit of re-   Mr. Gorbachev and other resistant      thus fell on Germany, which prom-      ment well worth celebrating.
NATO as part of a structure that       bellion reached its height on Nov.    leaders off-balance, presenting suc-   ised the Soviets generous loans
would preserve both American in-       9, when the Berlin Wall fell.         cessive faits accomplis that de-       and other financial guarantees. At     Mr. Hay, a historian at Missis-
fluence and European stability.            Few welcomed the change. A        fined the new reality. When Mitter-    the same time Mr. Kohl offered as-     sippi State University, is the au-
But the full story shows how con-      French novelist captured the gen-     rand dropped his opposition, in the    sistance to Poland and reassured       thor of “The Whig Revival,
tingent the transition was.            eral sentiment by writing that he     hopes of gaining German backing        poorer European Community mem-         1808-1830.”

                                                                                                                 WEEKEND JOURNAL          | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009           W15
Barcelona                                                                                                                                                                                                art
religion                                                                                                                                 A crest that adorned the gate at                                “Albert Oehlen, Abstract Reality” show-
“The Worlds of Islam in the Aga Khan                                                                                                     Michael Jackson’s Neverland Ranch                               cases work by the German-born artist
Museum Collection” showcases ob-                                                                                                         in California, on show in London.                               (b. 1954), including computer-gener-
jects from 1,400 years of Islamic his-                                                                                                                                                                   ated designs, incorporating photo-
tory, illustrating religious art, history                                                                                                                                                                graphic and printed collages.
and traditions from the Far East to                                                                                                                                                                          Musée d’Art Moderne
the Iberian Peninsula.                                                                                                                                                                                       de la Ville de Paris
    CaixaForum                                                                                                                                                                                               Until Jan. 3
    Until Jan. 17                                                                                                                                                                                            % 33-1-5367-4000
    % 34-93-4768-600                                                                                                                                                                                         www.mam.paris.fr
Berlin                                                                                                                                                                                                   art
history                                                                                                                                                                                                  “Johann Heinrich Schönfeld” displays
“Celebration of Freedom,” the 20th an-                                                                                                                                                                   autographed drawings and prints by
niversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall,                                                                                                                                                                the German baroque painter
features a giant domino chain follow-                                                                                                                                                                    (1609-83).
ing the wall’s former route, fireworks                                                                                                                                                                       Staatsgalerie Stuttgart
exploding over the Brandenburg Gate,                                                                                                                                                                         Nov. 7-March 7
a concert and all-night party.                                                                                                                                                                               % 49-711-4704-00
    Brandenburg Gate                                                                                                                                                                                         www.staatsgalerie.de
    Nov. 9
    % 49-30-2474-9888                                                                                                                                                                                    Vienna
    www.mauerfall09.de                                                                                                                                                                                   art
                                                                                                                                                                                                         "Gender Check" examines gender roles
                                                                                                                                                                                                         in Eastern European art created since

                                                                                                                                                                         Shaan Kokin/Julien's Auctions
“Grey Area—Julie Mehretu” presents                                                                                                                                                                       the 1960s, including paintings, photo-
densely-layered abstract paintings and                                                                                                                                                                   graphs, posters, films and videos.
prints by the Ethiopian-born American                                                                                                                                                                        MUMOK Museum Moderner Kunst
artist.                                                                                                                                                                                                      Stiftung Ludwig
    Deutsche Guggenheim                                                                                                                                                                                      Nov. 13-Feb. 14
    Until Jan. 6                                                                                                                                                                                             % 43-1-5250-0
    % 49-30-2020-9314                                                                                                                                                                                        www.mumok.at
design                                         National Gallery of Scotland                                                           examples of fabrics, fashion clothing,                             design
“Decorum” displays 600 glass proto-
                                               Nov. 13-Feb. 14                          music                                         accessories and architecture.                                      “Formless Furniture” examines the
types by 80 contemporary designers,            % 44-131-6246-200                                                                         Museo del Traje                                                 maxim “form follows material”
offering modern interpretations of tra-                                                 “London Jazz Festival” brings interna-
                                               www.nationalgalleries.org                tional jazz greats such as Sonny Rollins,        Until Dec. 13                                                   through a display of furniture designs
ditional glass-decoration techniques.                                                                                                                                                                    by Gunnar A. Andersen, Ron Arad,
                                                                                        Chick Corea, Carla Bley, Gilberto Gil, Dave      % 34-91-5504-700
    Kunstgewerbe Museum                                                                                                                                                                                  Jerszy Seymour and others.
    Until Nov. 22                           Frankfurt                                   Holland and Branford Marsalis to the Bar-        museodeltraje.mcu.es
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Museum für Gestaltung Zürich
    % 49-30-2664-2304-0                     art                                         bican and Royal Festival Hall.
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Nov. 11-Feb. 14
    www.smb.museum                          “Botticelli” exhibits a selection of 80         Various venues                            Paris                                                                 % 41-43-4466-767
                                            portraits and mythological allegories           Nov. 13-22                                art                                                                   www.museum-gestaltung.ch
Bilbao                                      by Italian Renaissance painter Sandro           % 44-20-7324-1880                         “Le Nouveau Festival” is a new show-
                                            Botticelli (1445-1510).                         www.londonjazzfestival.org.uk             case for contemporary art, featuring
“Frank Lloyd Wright” shows 200 origi-           Städel Museum                                                                         exhibitions, shows, conferences, screen-                           Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Ser-
nal drawings, historic and newly com-           Nov. 13-Feb. 28                         photography                                   ings, tableaux, concerts and perfor-                               vice, WSJE research.
missioned models alongside photo-               % 49-69-6050-980                        “Points of View” explores the evolu-          mances.
graphs examining the work and life of           www.staedelmuseum.de                    tion and influence of photography                 Centre Pompidou
the American architect.                                                                 through 250 rarely seen images from               Until Nov. 26
    Guggenheim Bilboa                       Geneva                                      1839 to the early 20th century, as pho-           % 33-1-4478-1233
    Until Feb. 14                                                                       tography grew into a form of social               www.centrepompidou.fr
    % 34-435-9000                                                                       documentary, visual expression and
                                            “A Record of the Floating World: Japa-
    www.guggenheim-bilbao.es                                                            art.
                                            nese Prints from 1700 to 1900"
                                                                                             British Library
                                            shows the evolution of Japanese
Bonn                                        prints, depicting the “floating world”           Until March 7
art                                         (ukiyo) of entertainment.                        % 44-20-7412-7676
“Julian Rosefeldt American Night” ex-           Fondation Baur                               www.bl.uk
hibits film installations by the German         Until Jan. 3
artist, created between 2004 and                                                        music
                                                % 41-227-0432-82
2009, including “Asylum,” “Trilogy of                                                   “Michael Jackson: The Official Exhibi-
Failure” and “Ship of Fools.”                                                           tion” celebrates the singer’s life
    Kunstmuseum Bonn                                                                    (1958-2009), with more than 250
    Nov. 12-Jan. 17
                                            The Hague                                   items including awards, clothing and a
                                            art                                         wide range of personal belongings
    % 49-228-7762-60
    kunstmuseum.bonn.de                     “Cezanne, Picasso, Mondriaan: A New         from his estate.
                                            Perspective” examines the importance            The O2 Bubble
                                            of the works of three pioneers of mod-          Until Jan. 31
Brussels                                    ern Western art.
puppetry                                                                                    % 44-20-8463-2000
                                                Haags Gemeentemuseum                        michaeljacksonexhibition.co.uk
“Puppet Theatre of Quanzhou” fea-               Until Jan. 24
tures nine puppeteers and eight musi-
                                                % 31-70-3381-111                        Madrid
cians of the Quanzhou troupe, continu-
ing the heritage and traditions of Chi-         www.gemeentemuseum.nl                   architecture
nese string-puppet theater.                                                             “Palladio the Architect (1508-1580)”
    Théâtre National                        Lisbon                                      shows drawings and scale models of
    Nov. 10-14                              music                                       work by the Mannerist architect along-
    % 32-2-2035-303                         “Amália, Independent Heart” is an exhi-     side art by his contemporaries.
    www.theatrenational.be                  bition following the life and art of Por-       CaixaForum
                                            tuguese Fado diva Amália Rodrigues              Until Jan. 17
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Frédéric Goetz

Edinburgh                                   (1920-99) with documents, music,                % 34-913-3073-00
art                                         films and other objects.                        obrasocial.lacaixa.es
“Sir Peter Lely: Artist and Collector”      Museu Colecção Berardo
explores art by the Dutch portrait              Museu da Electricidade                  design
painter (1618-80), alongside Italian            Until Jan. 31                           “Marimekko: Fabrics, Fashion, Architec-
and Flemish works from his own pri-             % 351-21-3612-913                       ture” traces the history of the Finnish       Designer glass vases by Werner Aisslinger (left)
vate collection.                                mirror.berardocollection.com            design company with more than 150             and by Hyun Ju Do (right), on show at the Kunstgewerbe Museum in Berlin.

W16    FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6 - 8, 2009              |   WEEKEND JOURNAL

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