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food Emma Crowhurst
A real favourite
I am sure this says something about me – I crave comfort food
when the temperature drops. Spring is just round the corner
but there is always room for a winter classic
T
he steak and kidney flavour. In addition, young animals’ pink in the centre remove them to a
pudding is the food that kidneys are usually pale. Those from plate, deglaze the pan with wine or
time forgot and it’s older animals are a deep reddish .
sherry Reduce and add stock and
certainly time for a brown. reduce further, then add double cream
revival. home-made is a In selecting kidneys, look for those and mustard. Return the kidneys to the
far superior thing to any ,
that are firm and have a glossy even pan and gently re-heat .Serve with
factory version and, colour without dry spots. Kidneys mashed potatoes.
believe it or not, it’s dead should be used the day they are The other option is a long slow moist
simple to make and it doesn’t have to be purchased, or stored loosely wrapped cooking process, this happens in the
.
heavy or stodgy Once made and in the refrigerator for up to a day. steaming of the pudding or when you
steaming you can forget all about it till Remove the white membrane around make a braised filling for a steak and
dinnertime – except for the occasional the kidney by using a pair of scissors kidney pie. Once properly cooked the
check to make sure it hasn’t boiled dry . to snip the membrane from the core. kidneys will be so tender that only the
Although steak and kidney pudding Then, peel the membrane back with most ardent offal haters will refuse its
has a lovely juicy filling, it’s always your fingers and remove any excess fat. fragrant delights. I am convinced that
.
nice to have a little extra gravy I always When cooking the kidneys, they people who hate kidneys will have had
save any from my Sunday roast, freeze rather like either a very quick or very a bad experience with tough bullet like
it in a bag and then can combine them slow long cooking time. It is the tender- bouncy bits.
to use for things like this. tough tender – too much cooking very Use individual timbales to make dear
Kidneys typically used for cooking quickly makes them tough and chewy , little puddings, if you butter the dishes
are beef, veal, lamb, and pork. Beef and but if you gently slow cook them they well and line with a disc of bakewell
veal kidneys are multilobed and will become delicious with a soft paper the puddings will brown nicely ,
elongated. Almost like a large bunch of texture that melts in the mouth. For the small ones will take about an hour and
grapes. In contrast, lamb and pork quick cook method try a quick sauté in a half to cook. Serve the puddings with
kidneys have just one lobe that butter, melt and heat until nut brown, baby carrots, roasted leeks and purple
resembles a giant bean. Kidneys from pop in the prepared kidneys and sauté sprouting broccoli, a very chic and
young animals tend to have a more for a few minutes. Sauté means literally retro style, so old fashioned and
tender texture and more delicate ‘to jump’. Once nicely brown but still entirely better for that!
steak and kidney pudding
INGREDIENTS paper and make a large pleat in it.
Leave aside.
For the pastry: 5. Divide the pastry into 2/3 and 1/3.
225g Self raising flour Roll out the larger piece on a floured
½ tsp salt surface until a small disc shape.
140g suet Flour well and fold in half, roll the
130-150ml water folded pastry gently to form a sort
of pocket. Shape it like a U or like
For the filling: a cup. You can almost shape it by
340g chuck steak hand. Open the pocket and use it to
110g ox kidney line the basin. Trim off any excess
1 TBSP flour and plug any thin holes that form.
½ onion, finely diced 6. Pile in the filling without packing
2 TBSP chopped parsley it down too much. It should come
Salt and pepper almost to the top.
Butter for greasing 7. Pour over some water, filling up
the basin until you can see the water
level.
METHOD 8. Roll out the smaller piece of pastry
until it fits the top of the basin. Stick
1. For the filling: Cut the steak into the lid on securing with water and
large cubes, smaller cubes if you are pinching the edges.
doing small puddings, removing any 9. Place the greaseproof / foil on top
excess fat. Prepare the kidneys and of the pudding, foil side up and wrap
cut them into slightly smaller pieces around the dish. Secure with a piece
than the steak. Place together in a of string and make a handle from
large bowl. extra string.
2. Add the flour to the meats and 10. Bring a pan of water up to
shake well. Add the diced onions, a rolling boil ensuring the water
parsley and plenty of salt and level only comes up ½ way up the
pepper. side of the pudding basin. Place a
3. Make the pastry: Sieve the flour trivet in the base. Place the basin
and salt into a bowl and add the into the pan, watch out for water
suet. Using fingertips, rub the suet displacement! Cover with a lid.
into the flour until mostly rubbed in. 11. Boil the pudding for 1 hour
Add enough of the water to make and then reduce the heat and let
a scone-like texture. Knead lightly the pudding simmer for another
together. 4-5hours! Top up the water level
4. Prepare the pudding basin by as necessary always using boiling
rubbing with plenty of butter. Get a water.
double layer of tin foil and one layer 12. To serve, invert the pudding onto
of greaseproof on top of each other. a large serving dish and serve with
Thoroughly grease the greaseproof extra gravy.
ealife Saturday, March 19, 2011
food Brodie on beer
Cookery courses The land of Oz – or Jilly
The Cookery Rooms Friday, July 15 SAINSBURY’S seems to be having an
Join Emma at The Cookery Rooms or Easy Dinner Party Cooking attack of the “Jilly Gooldens”.
perhaps you know someone who would Discover how to deliver fantastic dinner parties At least that’s what my wife calls it
be thrilled to receive the day as a present. every time with Emma’s professional tips and if – no, make that when – I start to
All the planned courses are booking up fool proof, impressive menus. wax lyrical about the character of
fast, so hurry if you are looking for that some beer or another which has
special present. Vouchers for birthdays and The Helmingham Hall really hit the spot.
Mother’s Day are also available through the Cookery Experience Quite why she chooses to
her website. Emma is also hosting courses at compare me with Ms Goolden when
There are a few places left on the last Helmingham Hall, with one date each month her male wine-tasting colleague on
three courses before the summer. More with 12 places on each course. The day the BBC’s former Food and
course are soon to be announced, including starts at 10am with welcome coffee in the Drink show, Oz Clarke, is no
some evening classes with supper, which Great Hall, followed by a short walk to the stranger to a flowery phrase
make great social occasions. famous kitchen garden to select some himself is something I have
seasonal produce for the day’s menu. it is a never quite fathomed.
Friday, May 6 unique insight in to one of our counties great I’d certainly be happier
Easy Entertaining houses and the chance to cook in an historic being compared with Mr
Learn the art of effortless entertaining - kitchen, as well as all the skills, tips and fun Clarke given that, in his more
organise and enjoy giving dinner parties without of a cooking session, recent series Oz and James
stress. Booking and information; Drink to Britain (in which he
www.helmingham.com 01473 890799. was accompanied by Top Gear
Friday, June 10 presenter James May) he
Summer Party Food n Follow Emma on Twitter demonstrated an equal
Dazzling summer produce inspires these @ Emma_Crowhurst and on Facebook. enthusiasm for beer as for
recipes for indoor and outdoor entertaining. n Visit her web site wine.
www.emmacrowhurst.co.uk I have to concede that, just as
James May was initially
confounded by Oz Clarke’s
elaborate descriptions of beer,
the tasting notes which
accompany Sainsbury’s
recently-launched own-label
beers, which now form part of
the chain’s Taste of the Difference
range, might seem, well, just a touch exotic for
so quintessentially British a product as ale.
But it so happens that they are spot-on. For
example, Sainsbury’s Traditional Kentish Ale the range, London Porter (5%abv), which is
(4.5%abv), brewed for the company described on the label as “Rich and aromatic
by Shepherd Neame, is described with notes of chocolate” and “Dark and
as “Floral with citrusy aromas intense with hint of licquorice”.
with rounded hoppy notes” and As regular readers will be well aware, I am
“Smooth and fruity with crisp, always a soft touch for a good porter-style
refreshing flavours”. beer and this one does not disappoint. The
Follow that, as they say Well,
. chocolate character is more prominent on
actually I’m going to duck out of
, the nose than on the palate, with the malt
Cookery demonstration the challenge, other than to say
that that Kentish Ale is every
bit as hoppy on the nose
,
character being one of genuine complexity
Although it is a thoroughly enjoyable drink
on its own, I do plan to take up a
.
evening at Jimmy’s Farm
and in the finish, as recommendation on the label to try it with a
the tasting notes ,
chocolate dessert. Sadly there was not one
imply which nicely
, readily to hand for my first tasting, and if
complements some that sound’s like an excuse then you are
Wednesday, March 23 characteristic but, right.
on this occasion, A third beer in the range, India Pale Ale
in preparation for a demonstration i am underlying Shepherd (5.9%abv) has been brewed for Sainsbury’s by
doing at Jimmy’s Farm next week, i spent a Neame smoothness. Marston’s in Burton-upon-Trent. It is
very instructive morning and lunch service It may be noted in described as “A traditional brew with clean,
in the kitchen with Head Chef Dan Blucert. passing that the name of bitter hop flavour” and as having a “Delicate,
it is a long time since i have worked in a this beer is consistent fresh nose with floral and citrus aromas”.
professional kitchen and there is always the with traditional Kent Again, it is hard to differ, the only surprise
fear that i will be asked to do something that nomenclature, in being that the IPA is perhaps a shade less
i can’t do or that i will be too slow. There which a male born hoppy on the nose than the Kentish Ale,
were few bookings but the spring weather west of the River although since I tried them a couple of days
brought out quite a few people. i helped with Medway is a “Kentish apart my senses might be playing tricks on
mains service and had to listen carefully to Man” while one born in me.
covers being called away by Dan. it may be the east of the county is The Sainsbury’s version is slightly
my age but i had to keep asking or checking a “Man of Kent”. It is stronger that Marston’s own Old empire IPA
them as the word head and sieve seemed to fortunate that the (5.7%abv) although in terms of all-round
be the order of the day. The other chef, Mike Shepherd Neame strength of character both come up short of
Lawless, the chef de partie, was working on brewery is located in some of the more authentic IPAs which have
the starters and puddings and i hopped about Faversham, well to emerged in recent years. This is not
trying to keep up with Dan. Being busy usually the west of the necessary a problem, depending on one’s
makes for a better service and in the end we divide, as personal taste, and the Sainsbury’s IPA is
did about 30 people. i thought the portions “Traditional Ale of certainly a good refresher.
were a good size and pretty good value for Kent” somehow fails A direct comparison with Old empire,
money. The new restaurant is rather lovely, to engender the Greene King IPA (3.6%abv), Adnams
SERViCE: Jimmy’s chefs Mike Lawless same sense of American Style IPA (6.8% in bottled form),
the converted barn has a bar and tables are and Dan Blucert
well spaced. The demonstration i am doing is anticipation. Greene King’s Very Special IPA (7.5%) and
to be followed by dinner and i wanted to get a March 23. The evening will begin at 7pm and Shepherd Neame Meantime IPA (also 7.5%) would be
feel for how they do things at Jimmy’s Farm. Emma will guide you in a full demonstration is also responsible interesting indeed. But that sounds like and
Dan thought i still had ‘all the moves’, i was of the menu showing how to make pan for another excuse or two (or even five) too far, so I’d
rather pleased with that as you can imagine. sauces, present pork, line a tart case and beer in better leave it there.
Come along to the demo and dinner details create spun sugar to name but a few of the
below. skills. Following this excellent demonstration,
you will sample the food yourselves during a
n Jimmy’s farm: Come along to our fantastic relaxed dinner.
cookery demonstration evening with The evening at just £40.00 per person, so call
renowned chef Emma Crowhurst on the our restaurant now on 01473 604206 to book.
WWW.BEERFROMTHECOAST.CO.UK ADNAMS PLC. SOLE BAY BREWERY, SOUTHWOLD1P18 6JW. TEL: 01502 727 201.
Saturday, March 19, 2011 ealife
