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					Paint Type
  Of the major automotive paint brands: Dupont, PPG, BASF/Glasurit, Stikkens,
   Valspar/House of Kolor, and Spies-Hecker, we have standardized on the PPG
   www.ppgrefinish.com two stage DBC line of urethane overlaid with House of Kolor
   pin stripping urethane enamel.
  We are using a urethane, not an enamel or lacquer. 98% of paint jobs today are
   urethane. Urethanes combine the durability of acrylic enamels and the repair ability
   of acrylic lacquers. Only a few coats are required for coverage, and wet sanding
   makes the paint finish even more glossy.
  We are using solvent based paint, not water-based paint.
  Urethanes require hardeners and reducers (solvent). Hardeners use isocyanates
   (which is cyanide), which requires fresh air respiratory systems.
  After application, urethanes should be baked with a heat lamp, 140 degrees, for 30
   minutes. Then wet sanded.
  Reducers come in slow (for hot days), medium (for normal days), and fast (for cold
   days). We will be using normal speed reducers.
  We are using a basecoat/clear coat system, 2K, or “two stage” system, as opposed to
   a single stage system, or a three stage (step) system used for pearls and candies.
   While single stage dries slower, two stage paints are generally available in smaller
   quantities and are less toxic than single stage.
  We are doing a straight black with straight white pinstripping. No metallic, candies,
   fluorescents, or perls.

Undercoats
Undercoats are paints that go under the base coat. We are using two:


Epoxy primers are designed to be used with a catalyst agent for application onto bare
metal surfaces. They protect parts from oxidation and rust. Epoxy primer should be used
on those parts which have been stripped. Epoxy primers should not be used to fill in
scratches.

Primer surfacers are used after bodywork and been accomplished, after epoxy primer.
Some primer surfaces are designed for use over epoxy primers; others are for use over
fiberglass.

We will not be using sealers, which are for covering old paint.

       Note: There are six strengths / speeds of PPG Acryli-Clean wax and grease
       removers:
            PPG DX330 Very slow evaporating and weak cleaner.
            PPG DX393 Very slow evaporating and weak cleaner -Low VOC Cleaner
            PPG DX394 Very slow evaporating and weak cleaner -Low VOC Cleaner
            PPG DX440 Fast and strong.
            PPG DX30 Fast and weak.
            PPG DX380 Water borne


Tips
      Use only one brand’s system for all layers: thinner, base coat, primer, clear.
      All paint products are designed to be used with 70 degrees Fahrenheit and 30%
       humidity.
      Mondays, Fridays, and afternoons are bad times to visit paint jobbers.
      Buy masking tape and masking paper from the paint supplier, not hardware store.
      Use Fine Line Plastic tape (Scotch 3M) for pinstripping.
      Use paint-strainers for everything.
      Ask paint supplier to shake-up paint.
      You can rent spray booths.
      Don’t tell neighbors you are spray painting.
      When spraying with anything using a hardener or epoxy primer (isocyanates), you
       must have a charcoal filtered mask and your eyes and skin completely covered.
       Isocyanates are not only inhaled, they are also absorbed through tear ducts or
       through skin pores. A complete covering of the body with painter’s coveralls,
       neoprene rubber gloves, goggles, and a hat are necessary.


Paint Booth
  Large sheets of clear plastic can be used to construct a suitable temporary workplace
  in a a garage. Rolls of clear Visqueen can be purchased at hardware sores and
  lumberyards. Roll the plastic around lathing, and then nail the lathing to rafters,
  letting the plastic hang down. Secure the bottom edges to the floor with duct tape.
  Leave the garage door open. Wet down the front of the garage and the driveway.


Sanding
      Use a paper mask when sanding.
      Wet sanding is usually only done on cured urethane.
      Note: never use your hand alone to hold sandpaper. We want a small sanding
       block for the tank; a larger one for the fenders.
      A flexible sanding block is always needed for sanding.
      150-200: Coarse paper is used to sand filler
      500-600: Over big blotches of primer-sealer.
    500-600: Use over existing paint.
    1200: Use with water over urethane.
    1000 – Final wet sanding to perfection done with 1000
    1500 – Final finishing


Compressors
    Must meet CFM and psi requirements. The CFM requirement is determined by
     the gun and type of paint.
    Home use should be at least 5 hp, at least 60 gallons (for HLVP guns).
    Copper or galvanized pipe should be used to plumb the compressor to the air
     tools. For 5-10HP, up to 100 ft, use 1” tubing.
    Adjust operating pressure with the air gun ON.
    HVLP guns need 3/8” inside diameter hose, no longer than 25’.
    Run a vertical riser from the compressor to the roof, then add a dipping horizontal
     piece to the end of the garage. Another section runs down the wall to a water trap
     or air dryer. Working airlines will connect at the trap.
    Connect the compressor to the wall system with a short, flexible hose.
Spray Guns
Two sizes; normal and detail (“touch-up” or “jamb” guns). We want detail touch-up.
Best brands are Binks, Sharpe, Sata and DeVilbiss.

We would like a gravity-fed, HVLP, jamb gun.
Should have a regular at the gun end.
Spray guns need to be cleaned after each use. Fill the gun cup partfly full with solvent,
swich it around and empty it to remove the bulk of the remaining paint. Refill it again
with clean solvent and spray it through the unit. Run plenty of dry air through the unit.
Hang guns in vertical position after completely drying them with cloths.

Disadvantages of HVLP Guns
he most notable limitation to the HVLP process is that the finish quality from some
HVLP spray guns is not as fine as conventional air spray. This may not pose a
problem to some finishers, but to others it may mean additional polishing. Turbine-
generated HVLP systems may be expensive to purchase and to operate. HVLP guns
using internal restrictors must have an adequate supply of clean and dry air to
operate efficiently. Turbine guns use a larger air hose, which may be difficult to work
with. Some high volume production lines may find HVLP to be too slow. Fluid
deliveries that exceed 10 oz/min. may sacrifice finish quality for speed

Binks: Club SLG HLVP Touchupi 50psi @ 11cfm $230
Sharpe: MGFHVLP Mini Gravity Feed System 40 psi @ 3 cfm
Devilbiss: Sri Gravity Spot Repair 29 psi 4.8 cfm

Sharpe (doesn’t make non-HVLP jamb gun)
Layers
------------------- rough smooth; all body work done --------------------
degrease
primer – surfacer - sand
degrease
sealer – (protect undercoats) heatlamp; not sanded
basecoat heatlamp
clearcoat
polish with soft pad


PPG DP40 epoxy primer
PPG DP401 catalyst

PPG body filler
PPG K 36 Prima Acrylic primer-surfacer
PPG K201 Primer Surfacer Hardener

Deltron 2000 Basecoat (DBC)
DX 57 DBC Basecoast Activator
DT 870 Reducer
Heat lamp;
Wet sanded

DCU 2001 Concept High Solids Polyurethane Clear
DT 885 Reducer
DU 6 Hardener
Heat Lamp
Wet sanded

PPG sealer

After each sanding, blow off dust with compressor, then tack dry.
Steel Nachelle & Fork Tube Tops
Step 1: Wash and Dry
Step 2: Paint Stripper
     Before stripping, break the surface with 80 grit sandpaper.
     Spray or put on with a throw-away brush. Make sure the brush strokes go just one way,
      without going back through the stripper. Cover the stripper with plastic wrap to retard the
      loss of active ingredients.
     After 15 minutes, remove stripper with Bondo spreaders (a putty knife may scratch the
      surface).
     Rinse with detergent and clean water and coarse steel wool making sure to get
      absolutely all of the stripper out of every groove and fold. Dry thoroughly.

Step 3: Dry Sand
     Dry sand with #80 grit to develop a tooth to the fiberglass.




Fiberglass Fenders & Fairing
Step 1: Wash and Dry
Step 2: Paint Stripper
     Note: we aren’t media blasting the fenders because bead blasting won’t cut undercoating.
     Before stripping, break the surface with 80 grit sandpaper.
     Spray or put on with a throw-away brush. Make sure the brush strokes go just one way,
      without going back through the stripper. Cover the stripper with plastic wrap to retard the
      loss of active ingredients.
     After 15 minutes, remove stripper with Bondo spreaders (a putty knife may scratch the
      surface).
     Rinse with detergent and clean water and coarse steel wool making sure to get
      absolutely all of the stripper out of every groove and fold. Dry thoroughly.

Step 3: Dry Sand
     Dry sand with #80 grit to develop a tooth to the fiberglass.
Gas Tank Restoration
Step 1: De-Chrome
    Remove knee pads (with a putty knife, as they are glued on), petcocks, BMW
    roundrels, and gas cap (use a drift to punch out the knurled end of the pin).

Step 2: Media Blast
    Remove all paint, primer, and bondo, reducing the tank to bare steel. Use plastic
    media for media blasting.

Step 3: Metal Finishing
    Push out big dents from inside using a body spoon against a wood dolly (hand
    anvil) on the outside. Repair small rises with dinging hammer. Use Vixen file to
    find high and low spots.

Step 4: Surface Cleaning
         "Wax and Grease Removers" are also called "Surface Cleaners". Use PPG
          Acryli-Clean DX440, which is a fast and strong degreaser (faster and
          stronger than DX330, which is more common).
         Blow off area with air gun, apply DX440 onto clean cloth in one hand,
          apply over small area, let sit for 1 minute (don’t let dry), and then wipe off
          with another clean cloth in the other hand, moving in the same direction.
          The idea is to wet the metal so it can be wiped off with clean rag.
         Thoroughly dry area with compressed air.
         This procedure performed outdoors, wearing forced air aspirator, goggles,
          and solvent-proof gloves.
         Always use this wax and grease remover procedure before any sanding!
Gas Tank Restoration (continued)
Step 5: Prep-Sand
            Outdoors and wearing filter mask, sand area to be body filled with 80 grit.
            Blow off with compressed air.
            Note: Can’t use any acid prep because body filler won’t stick to acid
             etched.


Step 6: Body Filler
            We are using Evercoat Rage Xtreme body filler and catalyst.
            Performed outdoors, wearing forced-air respirator and goggles.
            Have plenty of newspaper, rags, and paper towels available.
            Seal holes in motorcycle gas tank with rubber plugs from Home Depot.
            Without opening the tube of body filler catalyst, message the tube with
             your fingers to mix it and warm it.
            Mix the filler in the can with mixing stick.
            (We only prepare enough body filler for ten minutes of work). Pour out
             4” puddle on palette. Place bead of hardener across puddle (mixing ratio
             is 50:1 !).
            Thoroughly mix with spreading knife until uniform color. Mix the filler
             without pulling the spreader out of it. Just move the spreader in a figure 8
             until the mixture is a uniform color. Don’t go beyond this point, though,
             as the filler will start to set up immediately.
            Apply in thin layers with spreader. (Do not blob on or apply all at once!)
            Keep the spreader and palette clean, as even a tiny bit of hardened filler
             will ruin the work by making grooves in it.
            When done, clean spreaders with paper towels and lacquer thinner.
            Wait at least 2 hours to harden.
            Dry sand with #80 grit, then feather in with #180 grit to remove 80 grit
             scratches.
            Blow off with compressed air.

Surface Prep
PPG DX579 Metal Cleaner
PPG DX520 Metal Conditioner
Etch Primer
    Allow to cure indoors for one week. This will release any gasses in the primer.

Epoxy Primer
    Allow to cure indoors for one week. This will release any gasses in the primer.


Basecoat
Clearcoat
Pinstripping
The BMW pinstripe widths are 5/32" and 3/32".

1/8th Fine Line plastic tape by 3M is used to outline shapes. It is usually blue. Then use
¾” masking tape.

For a pinstripping brush, use a Xcaliper 000 sword stripper.

When removing masking tape, pull back onto itself.

House of Kolor urethane stripping enamel
U0204 white; 4 oz; $11 16oz?
HOK U00-PT Urethane Striping Reducer (85012ZP)               (pint) $14
HOK U02-PT White Urethane Striping & Lettering Enamel (pint) $60
HOK U02-QP White Urethane Striping & Lettering Enamel (quart) $17
MAC 2240 Wipe out Tool (eraser)                         $8
ABA V9CF04 Kustom Pinstripping Techniques Video by Craig Fraser $36
Beugler 142 Wheel 5/32" wide
Beugler 73 Wheel 3/32" wide
Beugler Deluxe Pinstriping Kit (paint barrel, 3 guide rods, cleanup brush,
    and 3 wheels (1/32", 1/16", and 7/64") we can't use
Color Sanding & Buffing Video: Paintucation

0.    Apply two coats clear.      (wait one day)
1.    Remove wax and grease.
2.    Colorsand with 500 or 600 grit wet sand paper.
3.    Stir the Kosmic Kolor
4.    Deposit 1 or 2 brush loads of paint onto the palette.
5.    Use U-00 Reducer to maintain proper concsistency.
     Add a small amount to a shot glass, dep the brush
     into the recuer and add to the mixture on the pallate.
     Brush back and forth a few times.

     Note: no catalyst (KU-200) needed when striping will be cleared.

6. Begin pinstriping. As the paint is used, add more to
  the palette by the brush full.
7. When done, wipe down with water only.
8. Clean brush with U-00 Reducer or lacquer thinner, then oil for storage.
9. Allow pinstriping to dry 1 - 4 hours before applykng clear coats.
Helmets
   1. Disassemble, and sand the gel-coated surface with 220-grit sandpaper. It is
      necessary to sand and reseal the gel-coat due to mold-release waxes in that
      gelcoat.
   2. After sanding the entire surface, spray it with a catalyzed polyester sealer. This
      sealer/primer locks in the mold-release waxes and give a good sandable
      foundatioun . Any nicks or scratches are taken care of at this stage with a
      catalyzed polyester filler.
   3.



Safety
      Don’t paint anywhere near the gas hot-water heater.
      Wear plastic gloves (not latex, which is porous)
      Wear air respirator with urethanes.
      Don’t store oily rags
      Don’t use open containers of flammable liquid like gas or carb cleaner.


Body Work
Don’t media blast with sand; it warps and thins the metal. Use plastic beads.


Paint Stripping
      Before stripping, break the surface with 80 grit sandpaper.
      Stripper destroys filler. You can grind it out with a grinder and twisted wire
       wheel.
      Spray or put on with a throw-away brush. Make sure the brush strokes go just
       one way, without going back through the stripper. Cover the stripper with plastic
       wrap to retard the loss of active ingredients.
      After 15 minutes, remove stripper with Bondo spreaders (a putty knife may
       scratch the surface).
      Rinse with detergent and clean water and coarse steel wool making sure to get
       absolutely all of the stripper out of every groove and fold. Dry thoroughly.
To Buy
  
References
      How to Paint Your Car, by Dennis Parks and David Jacobs 2003
      Automotive Cheap Tricks and Special F/X by Craig Fraser 2003
      Pro Paint & Body by Jim Richardson with Tom Horwath




"Wax and Grease Removers" also called "Surface Cleaners"
The idea is to wet it so it can be wiped off with clean rag.
The product must stay wet until is it wiped off. Don't let it dry! Spray out of bottle, or
pour on rag and then on metal.

Use the wax and greaes remover before any sanding!

Four types
1. PPG DX330 Very slow evaporating and weak cleaner.
  PPG DX393 "" Low VOC Cleaner
  PPG DX394 "" Low VOC Cleaner

2. PPG DX440 Fast and strong.

3. PPG DX30 Fast and weak.

4. PPG DX380 Water borne

Then hit with DX320, DX330, or DX394 clenaer




PPG DX330 Acryli-Clean grease and wax remover (apply in one direction only)
PPG DX440 wax and grease remover

PPG DX579 Metal Cleaner
PPG DX520 Metal Conditioner

PPG DP40 epoxy primer
PPG DP401 catalyst

PPG body filler
PPG K 36 Prima Acrylic primer-surfacer
PPG K201 Primer Surfacer Hardener

Deltron 2000 Basecoat (DBC)
DX 57 DBC Basecoast Activator
DT 870 Reducer

DCU 2001 Concept High Solids Polyurethane Clear
DT 885 Reducer
DU 6 Hardener


PPG sealer

After each sanding, blow off dust with compressor, then tack dry.




Primer/Surfacer:
------------------
A product that is made to be sanded and fill cosmetic imperfections. We want to use
epoxy primer.

Also, make sure you are using the correct type of primer/sealer.
Rubberized surfaces should use a rubberized primer, metal surfaces a metal primer,
plastic, use a plastic primer etc.

Clean the area of all dust with a tack rag and apply primer to the unpainted surfaces. Let
the primer dry and lightly sand with #600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Make sure you let
the primer / sealer dry for 30 minutes to one hour before applying the color coat.

Sealer or Primer/Sealer:
------------------------
A product that is non-sanding, gives adhesion, where no filling and sanding is necessary.


Applying the Basecoat
---------------------
The Basecoat is the actual color you have ordered. Apply several thin coats of paint to
build up the chip to the same depth as the surrounding surface. Dab at the scratch using
light coats of paint. Let it dry for ten to twenty minutes between coats. You may sand
lightly with 1000 grit sandpaper between coats. However, DO NOT SAND THE FINAL
COAT OF COLOR. Let the paint dry at least one hour and not more than 24 hours before
applying the clearcoat.

Clearcoat
---------
All colors require Clearcoat to make the color shine. Even if your vehicle was originally
single stage paint, all new paint must be produced in a basecoat/clearcoat combination
due to environmental regulations. The color match will still be just as good as the original
paint. The basecoat contains the color and the clearcoat makes them shine.


When using an Aerosol Spray Can apply several thin coats of the clearcoat, drying for
fifteen to twenty minutes between each coat. You may sand the clearcoat to remove
imperfections, but wait at least 24 hours after applying the final coat. Use 1000 grit wet
and dry sandpaper and wet sand the area smooth using plenty of water. Let the area dry
and use a good quality automotive rubbing compound to polish the area. Wait 30 days
before applying automotive wax.

Finessing
---------
Carefully sanding and buffing to remove surface defects without doing any painting.



PPG Paints
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No:
  1. Duracryl DDL Acrylic Laquer (lacquer)
  2. Destar DAR Acrylic Enamel (enamel)
  3. Concept DCC Acrylic Urethane Single Stage (single stage)
  4. Concept CLV Acrylic Urethane Single Stage (single stage)
  5. Global DG Direct Gloss Acrylic Urethane Single Stage (single stage)
  6. Autocolor P471 HS Plus Acrylic Urethanse Single Stage (single stage)
  7. Omni MAE Acrylic Enamel (cheap, enamel)
  8. Omni MBC Acrylic Urethane Basecoat (cheap)


Yes:
 1. Deltron 2000 DBC Acrylic Urethane Basecoat
   (for premium quality) used with DT Reducer

 2. Deltron DBU Acrylic Urethan Basecoast
   used with DRR Reactive Reducer

 3. AutoColor P422 2K Acrylic Urethane Basecoat

 3. GLobal BC Acrylic Urethane Basecoat

   DP Undercoat Epoxy Primer

				
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