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Crovol DC Croda Oleochemicals Personal Care datasheet


									Personal Care

                Modified vegetable oils
                The Crovols are a range of modified high quality vegetable oils recommended as
                multifunctional additives in a wide variety of personal care formulations. In addition to their
                primary functions as water soluble/dispersible emollients and solubilisers, the Crovols act as
                effective mildness additives in anionic and amphoteric detergent systems.

                A limiting factor in the use of vegetable oils is their insolubility in water and aqueous
                alcoholic systems. Although vegetable oils are compatible with most cosmetic emollients
                and are capable of being emulsified into creams and lotions, incorporation into aqueous,
                aqueous alcoholic and detergent systems is often impossible. The Crovols allow the
                formulator to add modified vegetable oils to such personal care systems without recourse
                to additional emulsifiers or high levels of solubilising additives.

                Functional benefits
                · emollients                                       · solubilisers
                · superfatting agents                              · dispersants
                · mildness additives                               · wetting agents
                · plasticisers

                The Crovols are based on various vegetable oils, each offering excellent functionality
                coupled with a natural product positioning.

                Vegetable source         Product name          INCI name
                Almond oil               Crovol A70            PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
                Apricot kernel oil       Crovol AK90*          PEG-192 Apricot Kernel Glycerides (proposed)
                Babassu oil              Crovol BA70G          PEG-42 Babassu Glycerides
                Maize oil                Crovol M70            PEG-60 Corn Glycerides
                Evening primrose oil     Crovol EP 70/75       PEG-60 Evening Primrose Oil (and) Aqua

                Table 1       Product range

                *Crovol AK90 based on apricot kernel oil is the most recent addition to this range. For
                further details please contact the personal care sales department.

                Crovol EP is based on evening primrose oil, a vegetable oil rich in GLA (gamma-linolenic
                acid). GLA has been shown to significantly improve the moisturisation and condition of the
                skin by incorporation into phospholipids of skin epithelium . For further information on this
                topic please request a copy of our product evaluation document 'Use of oils containing
                EFAs and PUFAs in therapeutic skincare' (V044).

                Skin care                                          Hair care
                · shower gels and liquid soaps                     · shampoos
                · facial cleansers and toners                      · mild baby shampoos
                · aftershaves, colognes and splashes               · styling products
                · foam baths                                       · hair spritzes
                · antiperspirants and deodorants                   · curl activators
                · syndet bars
                · body sprays

                Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England
                Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail

                Page 1 of 5                                                                         07/01 DC095/2
Personal Care

                Crovols are nonionic in nature and offer excellent chemical stability in cosmetic systems.
                They are fully compatible with other nonionic, cationic and anionic materials. In detergent
                systems such as shampoos, facial washes and shower gels, the Crovols act as superfatting
                and conditioning agents1 without adversely affecting foam volume. Due to their counter-
                irritant properties the Crovols are recommended as mildness additives in gentle detergent
                cleansers such as baby shampoos.

                As surface active emollients the Crovols are useful additives in aqueous and aqueous
                alcoholic systems, where they additionally function as solubilisers for a wide range of
                cosmetic materials, including perfumes, essential oils, vitamins A and E and herbal extracts.
                Due to their aqueous-alcoholic solubility, the Crovols are recommended as ingredients in
                aftershaves, colognes and splashes where they impart emollience and enhance skin feel. In
                these applications the Crovols will also aid perfume solubilisation.

                The Crovols will tolerate high levels of electrolytes and may be incorporated in astringent
                and antiperspirant products, where they can be employed as emollients and solubilisers.
                However, hydrolysis will occur in extreme acid or alkaline conditions.

                Plasticisers for hair gels
                The Crovols are particularly recommended as plasticisers in carbomer-based systems.
                Evaluation work using a styling gel base has shown that the incorporation of Crovols from
                the 70 range, either alone or as a partial replacement for glycerin, significantly reduces
                flaking of the dried film. Tests have shown that an addition level of 5% Crovol in a gel base
                containing 0.4% Carbomer (w/w) produces optimum results when replacing glycerin
                completely. In addition, the use of Crovols may enhance the moisturising and glossing
                properties of the styling gel.

                Mildness studies
                When included in shampoo formulations the Crovols have been shown to reduce the eye
                irritation potential of common primary detergents.

                An Eytex in vitro assay was used to evaluate the counter-irritancy of Crovol A70 and M70 in
                the following anionic and anionic/amphoteric detergent bases:

                Test shampoo                                     Anionic          Anionic/amphoteric
                                                                  % w/w                       % w/w
                Sodium laureth-3 sulphate                           30.0                        20.0
                Lauramide DEA                                         3.0                          -
                Cocoamphoacetate                                        -                       12.5
                Additive                                               qs                         qs
                Deionised water                                   to 100                      to 100

                The addition of Crovol A70 to the anionic system greatly reduced irritation compared with
                the control base formulation. The results, represented in figure 1, show that the reduction
                in irritancy was directly proportional to the addition level of the Crovol A70.

                Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England
                Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail

                Page 2 of 5                                                                         07/01 DC095/2
Personal Care



                Eytex score                                                                            Mildness



                                       Control        2.5% Crovol    5% Crovol A70 10% Crovol A70

                     Figure 1            Counter-irritancy of Crovol A70 in an anionic detergent system (in vitro screen)

                     The counter irritancy of the Crovols in an anionic/amphoteric system was compared with
                     the base formulation alone and containing an established counter-irritant, Polysorbate 20, at
                     15% w/w. The results show that the incorporation of Crovol M70 and A70 significantly
                     reduced the irritancy of the detergent system. Furthermore, the Crovols were shown to be
                     more effective than Polysorbate 20 as they were able to produce similar reductions in
                     irritation at much lower concentrations.




                     Eytex score

                                   4                                                                              Mildness



                                       Control           15%         5% Crovol   2.5% Crovol    10% Crovol
                                                    Polysorbate 20     M70           A70           A70
                     Figure 2            Counter-irritancy of Crovols in an anionic/amphoteric detergent system
                                         (in vitro screen)

                     Surfactant properties
                     The Crovol 70 series are effective surface active agents as shown by their equilibrium
                     surface tension values. The data for Crovol A70 is detailed in table 2.

                     Crovol                      Concentration         Surface tension at 25°C
                                                  (% activity)
                     Crovol A70                       0.5                         32.2
                                                      1.0                         31.7

                     Table 2             Equilibrium surface tensions of Crovol A70

                     Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England
                     Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail

                     Page 3 of 5                                                                              07/01 DC095/2
Personal Care

                Solubilisation of lipophiles into aqueous systems
                The Crovol 70 series possess excellent solubilising properties, producing completely clear
                aqueous systems with no gelling. The amount of Crovol A70 required to solubilise common
                lipophilic components into water is given in table 3. Lower levels would be required for
                solubilisation into detergents or aqueous alcoholic systems, or by combining Crovols with
                other solubilising agents such as Glycerox 767 (ethoxylated glyceryl ester), Crillets
                (ethoxylated sorbitan esters) or Crodurets (ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil).

                Lipophile                               Crovol A70 (g per g lipophile)
                Eucalyptus oil                                        6
                Fragrance oil                                         6
                Lemon oil                                            10
                Menthol                                               6
                Methyl salicylate                                     9
                Organo perfume                                        6
                Peppermint oil                                        8
                Pine oil                                              9
                Spearmint oil                                         7
                Tocopheryl acetate                                   14

                Table 3           g Crovol A70 required to solubilise 1g lipophile into water

                Crovols show various degrees of solubility in cosmetic raw materials. The approximate
                HLBs of these surfactants and their solubilities at 25°C (10% solution) in various solvents
                are provided in table 4.

                Crovol 70 series                          A70           BA70G              M70
                HLB (approx)                               15             15                15
                Solvent base
                Mineral oil 25cS at 25°C                   P                  I                 P
                Maize oil                                  S                  I                 S
                Oleyl alcohol                              S                  I                 S
                Isopropyl myristate                        P                  I                 P
                Water                                      S                  S                 S
                Ethanol                                    S                  S                 S
                Water:ethanol 50:50                        S                  S                 S
                Water:ethanol 75:25                        S                  S                 S
                Water:ethanol 25:75                        S                  S                 S
                Glycerin                                   P                  I                 P
                Key           S – Soluble I – Insoluble P – Partly soluble

                Table 4           HLBs and solubilities of the Crovol range

                Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England
                Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail

                Page 4 of 5                                                                         07/01 DC095/2
Personal Care

                Japanese approval
                Crovol A70 is approved under CLS number 532302 for use in cosmetic categories 1-7
                without restriction. Further details are available on request.

                Health and safety
                The Crovols are considered to be acceptable cosmetic raw materials. However, in
                common with other surface active agents, they may produce irritation of the skin
                (detergent action) and eyes, as supplied. A separate material safety data sheet for individual
                products is available on request.

                1. GB 2,288,812 A Procter & Gamble, USA (1995)

                Information in this leaflet is given in good faith. Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd and its associate companies cannot assume any liability expressed
                or implied in the presentation of this data, nor should information contained herein be construed as granting licence to practise any methods or
                compositions of matter covered by British or other patents.

                Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England
                Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail

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