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Personal Care Crovol Modified vegetable oils The Crovols are a range of modified high quality vegetable oils recommended as multifunctional additives in a wide variety of personal care formulations. In addition to their primary functions as water soluble/dispersible emollients and solubilisers, the Crovols act as effective mildness additives in anionic and amphoteric detergent systems. A limiting factor in the use of vegetable oils is their insolubility in water and aqueous alcoholic systems. Although vegetable oils are compatible with most cosmetic emollients and are capable of being emulsified into creams and lotions, incorporation into aqueous, aqueous alcoholic and detergent systems is often impossible. The Crovols allow the formulator to add modified vegetable oils to such personal care systems without recourse to additional emulsifiers or high levels of solubilising additives. Functional benefits · emollients · solubilisers · superfatting agents · dispersants · mildness additives · wetting agents · plasticisers The Crovols are based on various vegetable oils, each offering excellent functionality coupled with a natural product positioning. Vegetable source Product name INCI name Almond oil Crovol A70 PEG-60 Almond Glycerides Apricot kernel oil Crovol AK90* PEG-192 Apricot Kernel Glycerides (proposed) Babassu oil Crovol BA70G PEG-42 Babassu Glycerides Maize oil Crovol M70 PEG-60 Corn Glycerides Evening primrose oil Crovol EP 70/75 PEG-60 Evening Primrose Oil (and) Aqua Table 1 Product range *Crovol AK90 based on apricot kernel oil is the most recent addition to this range. For further details please contact the personal care sales department. Crovol EP is based on evening primrose oil, a vegetable oil rich in GLA (gamma-linolenic acid). GLA has been shown to significantly improve the moisturisation and condition of the skin by incorporation into phospholipids of skin epithelium . For further information on this topic please request a copy of our product evaluation document 'Use of oils containing EFAs and PUFAs in therapeutic skincare' (V044). Applications Skin care Hair care · shower gels and liquid soaps · shampoos · facial cleansers and toners · mild baby shampoos · aftershaves, colognes and splashes · styling products · foam baths · hair spritzes · antiperspirants and deodorants · curl activators · syndet bars · body sprays Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail email@example.com www.croda.com/europe/pc Page 1 of 5 07/01 DC095/2 Personal Care Crovols are nonionic in nature and offer excellent chemical stability in cosmetic systems. They are fully compatible with other nonionic, cationic and anionic materials. In detergent systems such as shampoos, facial washes and shower gels, the Crovols act as superfatting and conditioning agents1 without adversely affecting foam volume. Due to their counter- irritant properties the Crovols are recommended as mildness additives in gentle detergent cleansers such as baby shampoos. As surface active emollients the Crovols are useful additives in aqueous and aqueous alcoholic systems, where they additionally function as solubilisers for a wide range of cosmetic materials, including perfumes, essential oils, vitamins A and E and herbal extracts. Due to their aqueous-alcoholic solubility, the Crovols are recommended as ingredients in aftershaves, colognes and splashes where they impart emollience and enhance skin feel. In these applications the Crovols will also aid perfume solubilisation. The Crovols will tolerate high levels of electrolytes and may be incorporated in astringent and antiperspirant products, where they can be employed as emollients and solubilisers. However, hydrolysis will occur in extreme acid or alkaline conditions. Plasticisers for hair gels The Crovols are particularly recommended as plasticisers in carbomer-based systems. Evaluation work using a styling gel base has shown that the incorporation of Crovols from the 70 range, either alone or as a partial replacement for glycerin, significantly reduces flaking of the dried film. Tests have shown that an addition level of 5% Crovol in a gel base containing 0.4% Carbomer (w/w) produces optimum results when replacing glycerin completely. In addition, the use of Crovols may enhance the moisturising and glossing properties of the styling gel. Mildness studies When included in shampoo formulations the Crovols have been shown to reduce the eye irritation potential of common primary detergents. An Eytex in vitro assay was used to evaluate the counter-irritancy of Crovol A70 and M70 in the following anionic and anionic/amphoteric detergent bases: Test shampoo Anionic Anionic/amphoteric % w/w % w/w Sodium laureth-3 sulphate 30.0 20.0 Lauramide DEA 3.0 - Cocoamphoacetate - 12.5 Additive qs qs Deionised water to 100 to 100 The addition of Crovol A70 to the anionic system greatly reduced irritation compared with the control base formulation. The results, represented in figure 1, show that the reduction in irritancy was directly proportional to the addition level of the Crovol A70. Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail firstname.lastname@example.org www.croda.com/europe/pc Page 2 of 5 07/01 DC095/2 Personal Care 30 25 20 Eytex score Mildness 15 10 5 0 Control 2.5% Crovol 5% Crovol A70 10% Crovol A70 A70 Figure 1 Counter-irritancy of Crovol A70 in an anionic detergent system (in vitro screen) The counter irritancy of the Crovols in an anionic/amphoteric system was compared with the base formulation alone and containing an established counter-irritant, Polysorbate 20, at 15% w/w. The results show that the incorporation of Crovol M70 and A70 significantly reduced the irritancy of the detergent system. Furthermore, the Crovols were shown to be more effective than Polysorbate 20 as they were able to produce similar reductions in irritation at much lower concentrations. 8 7 6 5 Eytex score 4 Mildness 3 2 1 0 Control 15% 5% Crovol 2.5% Crovol 10% Crovol Polysorbate 20 M70 A70 A70 Figure 2 Counter-irritancy of Crovols in an anionic/amphoteric detergent system (in vitro screen) Surfactant properties The Crovol 70 series are effective surface active agents as shown by their equilibrium surface tension values. The data for Crovol A70 is detailed in table 2. Crovol Concentration Surface tension at 25°C (% activity) Crovol A70 0.5 32.2 1.0 31.7 Table 2 Equilibrium surface tensions of Crovol A70 Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail email@example.com www.croda.com/europe/pc Page 3 of 5 07/01 DC095/2 Personal Care Solubilisation of lipophiles into aqueous systems The Crovol 70 series possess excellent solubilising properties, producing completely clear aqueous systems with no gelling. The amount of Crovol A70 required to solubilise common lipophilic components into water is given in table 3. Lower levels would be required for solubilisation into detergents or aqueous alcoholic systems, or by combining Crovols with other solubilising agents such as Glycerox 767 (ethoxylated glyceryl ester), Crillets (ethoxylated sorbitan esters) or Crodurets (ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil). Lipophile Crovol A70 (g per g lipophile) Eucalyptus oil 6 Fragrance oil 6 Lemon oil 10 Menthol 6 Methyl salicylate 9 Organo perfume 6 Peppermint oil 8 Pine oil 9 Spearmint oil 7 Tocopheryl acetate 14 Table 3 g Crovol A70 required to solubilise 1g lipophile into water Solubility Crovols show various degrees of solubility in cosmetic raw materials. The approximate HLBs of these surfactants and their solubilities at 25°C (10% solution) in various solvents are provided in table 4. Crovol 70 series A70 BA70G M70 HLB (approx) 15 15 15 Solvent base Mineral oil 25cS at 25°C P I P Maize oil S I S Oleyl alcohol S I S Isopropyl myristate P I P Water S S S Ethanol S S S Water:ethanol 50:50 S S S Water:ethanol 75:25 S S S Water:ethanol 25:75 S S S Glycerin P I P Key S – Soluble I – Insoluble P – Partly soluble Table 4 HLBs and solubilities of the Crovol range Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail firstname.lastname@example.org www.croda.com/europe/pc Page 4 of 5 07/01 DC095/2 Personal Care Japanese approval Crovol A70 is approved under CLS number 532302 for use in cosmetic categories 1-7 without restriction. Further details are available on request. Health and safety The Crovols are considered to be acceptable cosmetic raw materials. However, in common with other surface active agents, they may produce irritation of the skin (detergent action) and eyes, as supplied. A separate material safety data sheet for individual products is available on request. References 1. GB 2,288,812 A Procter & Gamble, USA (1995) Non-warranty Information in this leaflet is given in good faith. Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd and its associate companies cannot assume any liability expressed or implied in the presentation of this data, nor should information contained herein be construed as granting licence to practise any methods or compositions of matter covered by British or other patents. Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail email@example.com www.croda.com/europe/pc Page 5 of 5 07/01 DC095/2
"Crovol DC Croda Oleochemicals Personal Care datasheet"