Cognac

ARTSdiningentertainment Cognac A Master Blend by Jon Genderson ognac has long been considered one of the world’s finest spirits, with its long history pointing back to the 17th century. It was first made at that time for German and Norwegian merchants who needed their French wine boiled down to shrink the bulk on their ships and likewise reduce the duty taxes owed. The brandy that resulted from that first distillation was later classified as cognac, referring to the region in southwest France. In the early 1900s, France enacted its appellation laws to mandate that the finest of French brandies be called cognac. Further, all cognac must be produced from Ugni Blanc grapes grown and harvested in six vineyard districts (Grand Champagne, Petite Champagne, Bois, Fins Bois, Borderies and Bons Bois) and aged in barrels made only from certain types of French oak (Limousin, Allier, Troncais and Nevers). This strict regulation sets cognac apart from brandy, which can be made from a variety of different types of grapes and grown in several countries. Like sparkling wine and Champagne, all cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac. Cognac is also unique in its distillation process. It is distilled twice; in special onion shaped copper stills called Charentais. The first distillation produces a cloudy liquid with an alcohol content of 28 percent to 32 percent. The second distillation produces the clear “eau-de-vie,” or water of life, that goes into the barrels. As cognac ages, it picks up color from the barrels as well as notes of vanilla. Further aging results in more complex aromas and flavors as well as a reduction in volume and alcohol content. This evaporation is romantically known as the angel’s share. The label distinctions on bottles of cognac tell their own story. Even though the aging process is central to the high quality of this spirit, cognac makers very rarely use vintages as identifiers. Instead, a letter system denotes the barrel-aging process and thus, the quality level. Unlike wine, cognac does not age in the bottle. VS (Very Superior), or 3-Star, cognacs have been aged for at least two years. VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) blends have spent at least four years in the barrel. XO (Extra Old), Napoleon or Extra cognacs must have been aged at least six years, however, since this category also includes all of the older cognacs, many are more than 30 or 40 years old. Today, cognac is exported to more than 150 countries, and the leading cognac brands include Camus, Hennessy, Courvoisier, Remy Martin and Martell. Leading brands, however, do not tell the whole story. There are many small producers whose products represent the finest quality at substantially 102 ★ HillRag | January 2009 C lower prices than the “leading brands.” At 80 proof (40 percent alcohol), cognac is best served at room temperature in a tulip shaped glass. Purists say that cognac should be enjoyed neat and that mixing it or adding ice dilutes its special flavors. However, this smooth, rich and full-bodied spirit is a wonderful aperitif mixed in cocktails with water, tonic and sodas. This deep amber, fragrant spirit has long been known as a first-class celebration drink linked to the luxury lifestyle, but you don’t have to be a billionaire to enjoy and appreciate cognac. Savor it after a wonderful evening out with family or friends or enjoy it solo as you nestle in for a long, contemplative night in front of a roaring fire this winter. Salut! Pierre Ferrand Selection des Anges – $139.99 This fully mature cognac is named after the evaporation in cognac called the “Angel’s Share.” It has a lingering finish and rich, mellow flavor, with hints of vanilla and licorice. Jon Genderson, co-owner of Schneider’s on Capitol Hill, writes the monthly “Wine Guys” column for the Hill Rag. He can be reached at 202-543-9300. Schneider’s is located at 300 Massachusetts Ave. NE, or visit the store online at www.cellar.com. ★ Recommended Cognacs: Jules Beaupre XO – $39.99 Dark and rich in color with slightly sweet caramel and butterscotch aromas leading to smooth and soft flavors. George Roullet VSOP – $39.99 Also 100 percent Grand Champagne, George Roullet adds no caramel to his cognac, producing an outstanding, smooth, dry style that will have you coming back for more. Raillerie Extra Old – $39.99 Produced by Pierre Ferrand from a single estate in the Petite Champagne region, this excellent XO is dry, delicate and balanced. A great value in XO. Fransac Extra 25 year old Cognac – $59.99 This 100 percent Grand Champagne is amazingly delicate, subtle and oh so smooth. Weighty flavors of walnuts and tobacco are perfectly balanced. Fransac also produces 35-year-old ($200), 50year-old ($300) and 70-year-old ($400) Grand Champagne cognacs that are all very, very special. The smoothness and complexity increase dramatically at each age level, and drinking the 70-yearold is a truly ethereal experience. Chateau de Fontpinot XO – $99.99 Produced from a single chateau in the Grand Champagne region, this is their oldest “reserve.” This XO cognac is the result of very long aging and dry cellaring, which imparts subtle and complex aromas of vanilla, wild flowers and candied fruit. This very old Château de Fontpinot Réserve offers balance and a persistent finish. Open until 5am CAFE BERLIN on Inauguration Weekend with Food The Ugly Mug is your home for all Sports parties! We have all the NFL games along with college football and college basketball packages!! Dine Before, During & After The Inauguration! Serving a Presidential Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Inauguration Hours January 17 – 24 8 AM till 11 PM 322-B Massachusetts Ave., NE Washington, DC 20002 The Ugly Mug is your home for all Holiday Parties Call or email us at info@UglyMug.com 202-543-7656 Inauguration Party Specials Thousands of Wines and Spirits on Sale!! Check out the entire sale on our award winning website www.Cellar.com “Best Website Award”, 2008 by the Wine Spectator’s Market Watch SALE: Bogle Petite Sirah ...........................................................$7.99 Chusclan Cotes du Rhone Les Ribieres.....................$9.99 Chusclan Espirit du Rhone............................................$7.99 Eyzaguirre Cabernet.......................................................$9.99 Eyzaguirre Syrah.............................................................$9.99 Fleuraison Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine...............$9.99 Rio Seco Cabernet Reserva ........................................$11.99 Rio Seco Chardonnay.....................................................$6.99 Rio Seco Malbec.............................................................$6.99 Rio Seco Malbec Reserva............................................$11.99 Rio Seco Pinot Noir Reserva.......................................$11.99 Rio Seco Torrontes........................................................$11.99 Wunsch & Mann Muscat...............................................$9.99 Johnnie Walker Black 1.75L......................................$49.99 Beefeaters Gin 1.75L...................................................$23.99 Lombard Teaninich 12 year old 750ml....................$39.99 Absolut 1.75L...............................................................$31.99 “ONE OF THE BEST WINE STORES IN THE COUNTRY IS RIGHT HERE ON CAPITOL HILL” SELECTION: The country's most complete range of spirits, beer & wine. Our old and rare wine list is the most extensive anywhere, and it's in your neighborhood. PRICING: We will not be undersold. Come see for yourself. SERVICE: Second to none, with seven full time wine specialists to assist you. Come in and be treated like family! In the Wall Street Journal (7-21-00) six wine shops around the country were listed as places where you should shop. Schneider's of Capitol Hill was one of them. www.alsgourmetpizza.com 300 Massachusetts Ave., NE | p: 202.543.9300 | f: 202.546.6289 www.cellar.com capitalcommunitynews.com ★ 103