ARTSdiningentertainment
Cognac
A Master Blend
by Jon Genderson
C ognac has long been considered one of the
world’s finest spirits, with its long history
pointing back to the 17th century. It was first made
lower prices than the “leading brands.”
At 80 proof (40 percent alcohol), cognac is best
served at room temperature in a tulip shaped glass.
Pierre Ferrand Selection des Anges – $139.99
This fully mature cognac is named after the
evaporation in cognac called the “Angel’s Share.”
at that time for German and Norwegian merchants Purists say that cognac should be enjoyed neat and It has a lingering finish and rich, mellow flavor,
who needed their French wine boiled down to that mixing it or adding ice dilutes its special flavors. with hints of vanilla and licorice.
shrink the bulk on their ships and likewise reduce However, this smooth, rich and full-bodied spirit is
the duty taxes owed. a wonderful aperitif mixed in cocktails with water, Jon Genderson, co-owner of Schneider’s on Capitol
The brandy that resulted from that first distil- tonic and sodas. Hill, writes the monthly “Wine Guys” column for the
lation was later classified as cognac, referring to This deep amber, fragrant spirit has long been Hill Rag. He can be reached at 202-543-9300. Sch-
the region in southwest France. In the early 1900s, known as a first-class celebration drink linked to the neider’s is located at 300 Massachusetts Ave. NE, or
France enacted its appellation laws to mandate that luxury lifestyle, but you don’t have to be a billionaire visit the store online at www.cellar.com. ★
the finest of French brandies be called cognac. Fur- to enjoy and appreciate cognac. Savor it after a won-
ther, all cognac must be produced from Ugni Blanc derful evening out with family or friends or enjoy it
grapes grown and harvested in six vineyard districts solo as you nestle in for a long, contemplative night
(Grand Champagne, Petite Champagne, Bois, Fins in front of a roaring fire this winter. Salut!
Bois, Borderies and Bons Bois) and aged in barrels
made only from certain types of French oak (Lim-
ousin, Allier, Troncais and Nevers). This strict regu-
Recommended Cognacs:
Jules Beaupre XO – $39.99
lation sets cognac apart from brandy, which can be
Dark and rich in color with slightly sweet
made from a variety of different types of grapes and
caramel and butterscotch aromas leading to
grown in several countries. Like sparkling wine and
smooth and soft flavors.
Champagne, all cognac is brandy, but not all brandy
is cognac.
George Roullet VSOP – $39.99
Cognac is also unique in its distillation process.
Also 100 percent Grand Champagne,
It is distilled twice; in special onion shaped copper
George Roullet adds no caramel to his co-
stills called Charentais. The first distillation produces
gnac, producing an outstanding, smooth, dry
a cloudy liquid with an alcohol content of 28 percent
style that will have you coming back for more.
to 32 percent. The second distillation produces the
clear “eau-de-vie,” or water of life, that goes into the
Raillerie Extra Old – $39.99
barrels. As cognac ages, it picks up color from the
Produced by Pierre Ferrand from a single
barrels as well as notes of vanilla. Further aging re-
sults in more complex aromas and flavors as well as a estate in the Petite Champagne region, this ex-
reduction in volume and alcohol content. This evap- cellent XO is dry, delicate and balanced. A great
oration is romantically known as the angel’s share. value in XO.
The label distinctions on bottles of cognac tell
their own story. Even though the aging process is Fransac Extra 25 year old Cognac – $59.99
central to the high quality of this spirit, cognac mak- This 100 percent Grand Champagne is amaz-
ers very rarely use vintages as identifiers. Instead, a ingly delicate, subtle and oh so smooth. Weighty fla-
letter system denotes the barrel-aging process and vors of walnuts and tobacco are perfectly balanced.
thus, the quality level. Unlike wine, cognac does not Fransac also produces 35-year-old ($200), 50-
age in the bottle. VS (Very Superior), or 3-Star, co- year-old ($300) and 70-year-old ($400) Grand
gnacs have been aged for at least two years. VSOP Champagne cognacs that are all very, very special.
(Very Superior Old Pale) blends have spent at least The smoothness and complexity increase dramati-
four years in the barrel. XO (Extra Old), Napoleon cally at each age level, and drinking the 70-year-
or Extra cognacs must have been aged at least six old is a truly ethereal experience.
years, however, since this category also includes all
of the older cognacs, many are more than 30 or 40 Chateau de Fontpinot XO – $99.99
years old. Produced from a single chateau in the Grand
Today, cognac is exported to more than 150 Champagne region, this is their oldest “reserve.”
countries, and the leading cognac brands include This XO cognac is the result of very long aging
Camus, Hennessy, Courvoisier, Remy Martin and and dry cellaring, which imparts subtle and com-
Martell. Leading brands, however, do not tell the plex aromas of vanilla, wild flowers and candied
whole story. There are many small producers whose fruit. This very old Château de Fontpinot Réserve
products represent the finest quality at substantially offers balance and a persistent finish.
102 ★ HillRag | January 2009
Open until 5am
on Inauguration Weekend
CAFE BERLIN with Food
The Ugly Mug is your
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Before, parties!
During & We have all the NFL games
along with college football and
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Call or email us at
info@UglyMug.com
322-B Massachusetts Ave., NE
Washington, DC 20002
202-543-7656
Inauguration Party Specials
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Eyzaguirre Cabernet.......................................................$9.99 time wine specialists to assist you. Come in
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Fleuraison Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine...............$9.99 In the Wall Street Journal (7-21-00) six
Rio Seco Cabernet Reserva ........................................$11.99 wine shops around the country were listed
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Rio Seco Chardonnay.....................................................$6.99 Schneider's of Capitol Hill was one
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Rio Seco Malbec Reserva............................................$11.99
www.alsgourmetpizza.com Rio Seco Pinot Noir Reserva.......................................$11.99
Rio Seco Torrontes........................................................$11.99
Wunsch & Mann Muscat...............................................$9.99
Johnnie Walker Black 1.75L......................................$49.99
Beefeaters Gin 1.75L...................................................$23.99
Lombard Teaninich 12 year old 750ml....................$39.99
Absolut 1.75L...............................................................$31.99
300 Massachusetts Ave., NE | p: 202.543.9300 | f: 202.546.6289
www.cellar.com
capitalcommunitynews.com ★ 103