Not just cows, knitwear and potatoes – this compact island
really offers a huge variety of attractions for everyone
■ Blue Islands from Southampton you to scratch off a circular panel for the date
■ Easyjet from Liverpool and time of your arrival in the car park. You need
■ Flybe from Aberdeen, Belfast City, to ensure you use enough of the parking discs
Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Doncaster, Dundee, to cover your whole stay. The Esplanade car
WHY GO? Durham, Edinburgh, Exeter, Glasgow park, for example, requires one disc for one hour
International, Glasgow Prestwick, Humberside, of parking. Yet elsewhere this may not be the
Jersey, the largest of the five Inverness, London Gatwick, London Luton, case – so you need to check at each car park,
Channel Islands, is positioned Manchester, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, or on street signage to ensure you are not
only 23km off the French coast, Southend breaking any rules.
and as a result, it has a distinctive ■ Jet2 from Belfast International, Blackpool, Car hire costs from around £38 a day.
European feel. However, being just Leeds Bradford Unleaded petrol is 105.8p per litre.
160km from the southern British ■ Manx 2 from Gloucestershire
shore, it also has that home-from- THINGS TO SEE AND DO
home appeal. GETTING AROUND
There are plenty of spectacular ■ Jersey War Tunnel
sandy beaches, caves and rock This popular island measures only 14km by 8km, Les Charrières Malorey, St Lawrence
pools to explore, while museums, so certain parts can get extremely crowded in the ✆ 01534 860808
forts and castles – all chronicling peak summer season. St Helier is not the most w www.jerseywartunnels.com
Jersey’s rich heritage – are dotted attractive capital city, and if visiting by car, parking The Channel Islands were the only Great British
along the island’s perimeter. can be difficult. Most of the visitor attractions territories to be occupied during World War II.
have large free on-site parking (except those You can visit the award-winning Jersey War
located in St Helier, namely: the Jersey Museum, Tunnel Museum to hear all about the impact this
the Maritime Museum and Elizabeth Castle). gloomy period had on the island from those who
GETTING THERE However, if visiting these you can park in the lived through it. Allow two hours to walk around
Esplande car park and walk five minutes to each the subterranean museum, before taking time
You can travel to Jersey by sea or air. There site (charges apply). Alternatively, you can catch out in the small garden of reflection. It can get
is only one ferry company – Condor Ferries the lovely Petit Train from St Helier’s St Aubin’s cold deep in the tunnel – so make sure you wrap
( w www.condorferries.com, ✆ 0845 609 1024) Bay to cross the causeway to Elizabeth Castle up for the below ground exploration.
operating across the southern helm of the (train charge applies). The War trail through the German anti-aircraft
English Channel. Crossings set off from The island Explorer bus operates throughout battery is currently under development. This
Weymouth, Poole and Portsmouth, all taking April to October, taking you to many of the tourist museum is in the heart of the island at St
WORDS PAOLA BONETTI PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, PHOTOLIBRARY
both foot passengers and vehicles. attractions. The local connex ‘mybus’ routes Lawrence, with many bus routes taking you here
operate throughout the year, covering the whole or there is ample free parking.
AIR island ( w www.mybus.je). There is also a café here that is open every
Regular flights depart from most regional airports Parking on the rest of the island can be difficult day, serving light snacks from 10am to 4.30pm,
WE COMPILED THIS FACTFILE IN APRIL 2010
in the UK direct to Jersey. The following airlines as well – not only is it tricky at times to find and main meals from 12noon to 3pm. Prices are
operate to the island (see w www.flightmapping. spaces, but there are different rules and extremely reasonable, and the food is delicious
com for more information): regulations depending on your parking location. – sandwiches cost from £2-£3 and mains, such
■ Air France from London City You need to pre purchase parking discs, which as golden scampi, range from £3 to £6.50 – with
■ Air Southwest from Bristol, Plymouth have to be displayed inside the window screen. a selection of specials and a children’s menu also
■ Aurigny from London Stansted These are available on the ferry, from most hotels available. You can also savour some of Jersey’s
■ British Airways from London Gatwick and the tourist information office (opposite the dairy delights – such as strawberries with cream
■ BMIbaby from Bournemouth, Cardiff, East Esplanade car park). You can buy books of 10 and creamy yoghurts, as well as scones, muffins
Midlands, Manchester discs for £6.60. These paper ‘disc’ cards require and gateaux. Also at the café, you can see the
observation Tower that you we’ve ever seen. Refreshments available, and
can go down inside. there is a small picnic area in the grounds.
This is also one of the Admission Adult £4, senior (65yrs+) £3.50, child
locations on the fortification trail £1. Jersey pass accepted
depicted in the walks section Open Wednesday-Saturday 10am-4pm
(see below). Take in the leisurely Local bus Routes 21, 4, 3a, 3b and 23. Ample free
45 minute stroll around Noirmant parking
and discover the fortifications left
behind from the last World War. ■ Samarès Garden and Manor House
For bunker opening times see St Clement
w www.ciosjersey.org.uk or call ✆ 01534 870551
✆ 01534 863699 (evening only) w www.samaresmanor.com
Christie Farm lavender field to speak to the Channel Islands This beautiful private garden and manor house
Occupation Society – CIOS is on the south tip of the island, a few minutes by
(Jersey), whose volunteers run road from St Helier. There’s an extensive herb
Occupation photographs – look for the person these sites. Alternatively, you can speak to the garden with a café – an ideal place to get away
on the identity card you received with you Jersey tourist information office on ✆ 01534 from the hustle and bustle of the capital. Walk the
entrance ticket. 448800 for opening times. woodland trail, or the ‘jungle path’, and wander
Audio guide £3.50 (£10 refundable deposit) Admission Adult £2. Guide costs £1. Free parking down to the beautiful Japanese Garden. Watch
Open Daily 1 March-28 November 10am-6pm the bees close up from the safety of the ‘shed’,
(last admission 4.30pm) ■ Millbrook as they come and go in their hive. You’ll need at
Admission Adult £10.50, senior (65 yrs+) £9.50, St Aubin’s Bay promenade, St Lawrence least two hours here to see the gardens in full.
student £7.50, child £6.50 (prices for 2010 only), This single storey three-room bunker is located There are guided tours throughout the day to
Jersey pass accepted on the seafront at St Aubin Bay, opposite the Old the on-site museum – ‘Jersey Rural life’ (10.30am
Local bus Routes 8 and 8a. Ample free parking Station café. In some of the rooms you’ll find the and 3.30pm everyday) and the ‘Herbs and their
original internal fittings, as the bunker was sealed uses’ tour (Monday-Friday 12.30pm). You can also
■ Military Museum and landscaped over instead of scrapped in the tour the Manor House, but there is an additional
Jersey Woollen Mills, Five Mile Road, St Ouen 1950s like many of the other island casemates. charge, Monday-Saturday 11.30am and 2.30pm.
This World War II restored German bunker Watch the video – usually showing the When you exit the garden centre you are
museum has a vast collection of both British and occupation DVD (which is also available to entitled to a free return visit. Ask at the shop for
German war memorabilia. The various bunker purchase at the St Helier’s bookshop). your complimentary return ticket – this is non
rooms were built by Ukraine and Russian slave Open Some Saturdays and Sundays throughout transferable and is valid for a further 14 days.
labourers. The thick original doors are seemingly the summer months, contact CIOS for details You can even stay here on a self-catering
impossible to move. Watch your step. Admission Donation, minimum £1 per adult (child basis. The manor house and gardens have three
The museum is located at the rear of the entry free) apartments and a further three holiday cottages
Jersey Woollen Mills (opposite the Jersey pearl). that are available to rent through April to October
Admission Adult £4, child £2 and under 5s free ■ Lavender Farm (properties not inspected by us).
– no senior discount, no Jersey pass Rue du Pont Marquet, St Brelade Admission Adult £6.75, senior (65yrs+) £6.20,
Open Daily 10am-5pm. Free parking ✆ 01534 742933 child/student £2.35. The Jersey pass allows you
w www.jerseylavender.co.uk free access to the gardens, along with the
■ Maritime Museum and Occupation Tapestry Here at the Christie family farm, you can wander museum and herb garden guided tours. But the
Gallery around the lavender and herb gardens of their guided tour of the manor house is an additional
New North Quay, St Helier home – feed the hens that potter around the charge of £3.45 adult and £2.95 senior.
w www.jerseyheritage.org gypsy caravan and watch the on-site distillation Open Daily April-October 9.30am-5pm
This is two museums in one – you can visit the and bottling of the range of lavender products. Bus Explorer bus route Green, as well as local
maritime museum and the Occupation Tapestry With over 80 varieties of the vivid violet plant bus routes 18 and 1a. Plenty of free parking
together. The 12 tapestries on display in this new growing (many plants for sale), you can sample
ground floor exhibition were created to mark the some of the produce before purchasing a few ■ Jersey Museum and Art Gallery
50th anniversary of the islands occupation. of the lavender delights from the shop, or even The Weighbridge, St Helier
Admission Adult £7.50, senior (65yrs+) £7, child in the veranda café Sprigs. w www.jerseyheritage.org
£4.50 and under 5s free. Jersey pass accepted Admission During harvest period 8 June-15 Located at the far end of the Esplanade, passed
Open Daily 9.30am-5pm. No parking August): adult £4.80, senior (65yrs+) £4.30, child the famous Pomme d’Or Hotel is the Jersey
£4.50 and under 14s free. Jersey pass accepted. Museum. Here you can relive the islands history
■ German bunkers Reduced fee of £2.95 to the gardens and farm at over the beautifully presented four floors of
The anticipated Allied invasion never came – but other times exhibition space. Start at the top in the restored
for five years Jersey became part of Hitler’s Open March-31 Oct (closed Monday) 10am-5pm Victorian merchant home – see how the rich lived
impregnable fortress, and some of these restored Bus Explorer bus route Blue (and 5 minute walk), in their roomy home full of reproduced fixtures
war relics are occasionally open to the public as well as local bus route 12a and 15. Free parking and fittings (right down to the hot water bottles
– each telling the traumatic story of those years of the time on the beds).
under gruelling Nazi occupation. ■ Eric Young Orchid Foundation On the ground floor is a theatre room playing
Victoria village, Trinity the ‘moments in time’ video from the carefree
■ Batterie Lothringen ✆ 01534 861963 days of holidaying on the island through to the
Noirmont Point w www.ericyoungorchidfoundation.co.uk years under the Nazi occupation. The video
This is one of the largest sites, not only is there a Within a landscaped garden you’ll find this takes over an hour, with many amateur video
two floor command bunker, but you’ll also find an nursery complex of the best collection of orchids clips pieced together.
Admission Adult £8, senior (65yrs+) £7, child/ Gerald Durrell white wine ‘Domaine’ was our favourite, but by
student £4.50. Jersey pass accepted joining the tour you get to sample a generous
Open Daily April-Oct 9.30am-5pm. No parking selection of three wines and plenty of apple
brandy fudge and jersey cream liqueur – all
■ Mont Orgueil Castle topped off with a rather delicious chocolate disc.
Gorey, St Martin Admission Adult £8.50, senior (65yrs+) £7.50,
w www.jerseyheritage.org child/student £6
The fortifications of the island are numerous – Open Daily April-October 10am-5pm, Nov-Dec
our favourite was the 13th-century Mont Orgueil Mon-Fri 10am-3.30pm
Castle on the east coast near the beautiful Gorey Bus Explorer bus route yellow, or local bus route
Harbour. Climb to the top for fantastic views 7. Free parking
across to Normandy.
Admission Adult £10, senior (65yrs+) £9, child/ ■ Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust
student £6. Jersey pass accepted Les Augrès Manor, La Profonde Rue, Trinity
Open Daily April-Oct 10am-6pm w www.durrell.org
Bus Explorer bus route Green, as well as local Novelist and conservationist Gerald Durrell
bus routes 1 and 1b. Limited free parking opened the Jersey Zoo (Durrell Wildlife
Conservation Trust) in Trinity in 1959 to attempt to
■ Jersey Living Legend Village chamber which runs approximately 20 metres preserve the life of many endangered species.
La Rue du Petit Aleval, St. Peter underground. You can climb to the top of the Spend a day in the beautiful 32 acre
w www.jerseyslivinglegend.co.je mound, and visit the two roomed medieval surroundings, and try and spot the elusive
The Jersey story show takes you on a journey chapel. There is also a WWII bunker that has aye-ayes. Or watch the orang-utans and gorillas
through the history of the island from St Helier been recently turned into a memorial for the at feeding time.
through to the society girl Lille Langtry (one of the thousands of slave workers from around Europe Admission Adult £12, senior (65yrs+) £7, child/
most famous Jern’s). Narrated by ‘Bergerac’ – who were forced to construct the many concrete student £4.50. Jersey pass accepted
John Nettles, and a host of other celebrities. ‘creations’ throughout the island during the five Open Daily 9.30am-6pm
The Jersey Story show Adult £7.50, senior years of German occupation. Bus Explorer bus route Green and Yellow, or local
(65yrs+) £6.50, child/student £4-£5. Jersey pass Admission Adult £6.70, Senior (65yrs+) £5.70, bus route 3a, 3b and 23. Ample free parking
accepted for show Children and students £4.20. Jersey pass
Admission Free to enter village grounds. Crazy accepted WHICH? HOLIDAY TIP If you’re planning to visit
golf and go-karting additional charges apply. Open Daily April-October 10am-5pm a few of the attractions listed above, then you
Open Daily April-October 9.30am-5pm. Bus Explorer bus route Green, as well as local may want to consider purchasing the Jersey
Bus Explorer bus routes Red and Yellow, as well bus route 3a. Free parking. Pass. This allows you to enter many of the Jersey
as local bus route 8a. Ample free parking heritage visitor attractions for free. Passes are
■ Elizabeth Castle available online or from the tourist information
■ Battle of Flowers Museum St Aubin’s Bay, St Helier office and a handful of the attractions ( w www.
La Robeline, Mont Des Corvees, St Ouen w www.jerseyheritage.org jerseypass.com). The cost of the pass is £32 for
Florence Bechelet, the founder of this museum, This 16th-century castle can be reached twice a two days, £45 for four days and £59 for six days,
has exhibited her unique ‘wild flower’ float day by a short 15 minute walk along the lithe per person.
creations at the annual famous Battle of Flowers causeway at St Aubin’s Bay when the tied is out.
carnival since the early 1930’s. This museum, at If however your visit is not at these particular WALKS AND CYCLING
her family farm, opened in 1971 – and even times, or the walk is too exerting – fear not, you Jersey is a great location for walking, with some
though the award-winning floats on show here can take another remnant of WWII, the US tremendous trails. Autumn marks the island’s
have somewhat faded through the years – the ‘DUCK’. There are at least two of these delightful walking week (11-18 September), with free guided
intricate details are still visible. A float could take aqua vehicles that will bump or glide you across ‘around island’ or heritage walks.
up to eight months to create and she has worked in a matter of minutes to the sounds of 007. Our favourites were the leisurely 45 minute
tirelessly on her designs, winning over 80 awards. This Tudor fort defended the island for nearly stroll around Noirmont Point to the south of the
Admission Adult £5. No Jersey pass 300 years, and was named ‘Isabella Bellissima’ island, discovering the fortifications left behind
Open Daily 10am-5pm by Sir Walter Raleigh, in honour of his beloved from the last World War.
Explorer bus route Red – alighting at Route De Queen Elizabeth I. Besides the ones listed in the report – the walk
Trodez. Free parking. Admission Adult £8.50, senior (65yrs+) £7.50, #6 from the Tourist information office
And since King Edward VII’s coronation in child/student £6. Castle only prices – ferry ‘Discovering Rozel Bay’ is also a pleasant hour
1902, the island has celebrated the annual ‘Battle crossing are an additional £2.50 per person. stroll. Starting at L’Etacquerel Fort, you follow the
of Flowers’ carnival. If visiting in August (12th-13th), Jersey pass accepted, which also allows you free signs to White Rock (Le Catel de Rozel), where
you can witness this topiary spectacle yourself – return ‘ferry’ crossing you then continue on towards the charming bay
no longer with the ‘battle’ element of ripping the Open Daily April-October 10am-6pm (last at Rozel to the north of the island.
flowers off the festooned floats, but still as much admittance 5pm) Another walk was to the Corbière Lighthouse
celebrated on the island – now with a moonlight Bus All bus routes stop at Liberation square in St on the west of the island. Follow the old railway
parade too ( w www.battleofflowers.com). Helier, and then a short walk to the castle kiosk. line from St Helier to Corbière – the island no
longer has a rail service. Or on the opposite side
■ La Hougue Bie ■ La Mare Vineyard from the La Mare Wine Estate, you can hike along
La Route de la Hougue Bie, Grouville La Route de Hogue Mauger, St Mary the beautiful well manicured coastal pathway to
w www.jerseyheritage.org w www.lamarewineestate.com Greve de Lecq beach. Parts of the walk are on
This pre-historic location attracts many visitors Since 1972, La Mare has been producing the tarmac – otherwise known in Jersey as ‘green
who flock here to clamber through the druid islands wine from this northern location. The dry lanes’. They are very safe, as cyclist and hikers
■ Bonne Nuit Beach café
La Charrieres De Bonne Nuit
On Friday to Sunday evenings (5.30pm-8.45pm),
this café doubles as a gem of a Thai restaurant.
Popular with locals, you may have to wait for a
table – but it’s worth it.
Pay extra for the king prawn as they are
deliciously fresh and cooked to perfection. The
Green Thai curry really is good. Unlicensed, but
you can bring your own wine.
■ St Saviours
Longueville Hotel and restaurant, St Saviour
A choice of lunch or three dinner menus to
decide from – each with a great selection of
dishes. Make sure you leave room for the
desserts as the crème brulles are the best.
A two course lunch menu from £17
have the right of way and cars are capped at be complete without sampling the delicious ■ Greenhills
24km per hour. The walk typically takes less delights at the AA rosette restaurant – a Greenhill’s country hotel and restaurant, St
than two hours. four-course set menu from £31. Peter’s Valley
Cycling is also another option, Jersey has Standard double room B&B from £110 w www.greenhillshotel.com
clearly marked cycle routes covering A nice a la carte selection – but the real value is in
approximately 155km of coast and countryside. ■ Longueville Manor Hotel and Restaurant the set four course dinner. A lighter lunch option
St Saviour is also available. Even if you are a resident guest,
BEACHES AND BAYS ✆ 01534 725501 it’s best to book a table. Four course set menu
If you want to escape the crowds, Jersey has w www.longuevillemanor.com £28 plus 10% service charge.
over 32km of golden sandy beaches for you to The hotel is situated only a few minutes by car
choose from. Our favourites were St Brelade’s from St Helier, but it’s a world apart in its beauty CAFÉS
Bay and Ouaisne Bay on the southwest coast, and ambiance. The hospitality you’ll receive at For a lighter option there are many places
and the Bay of Grouville on the east coast of the Longueville Manor is exceptional. Double room throughout the island that serve the traditional
island. There is plenty of sand and the water B&B from £200. Jersey cream tea. Most of the islands good
(although cold) was calmer than many of the hotels offer this selection (both Greenhills and
other more popular beach areas. Beware, that GOOD PLACES TO EAT Longueville).
the water in some parts of the island experiences However, at the Lavender farm (details above)
great tidal shifts – so be careful. Jersey offers some culinary delights – food is they add a twist using their lavender product in
St Ouen’s Bay on the west coast is popular traditionally English with a French flare, and you’ll the scone, or at La Mare wine estate (details
with water sports enthusiasts – and the miles of find plenty of fresh island produce. Meals are not above), you can sample their own preserves
beach here plays host to sand racing – we saw cheap though, we found costs similar to those (especially the spiced Black Butter). With many
Harley-Davidson motorcycles on our visit. Bonne found in London. tearooms dotted throughout the island, you’ll
Nuit Bay on the rugged north coast is also a Alternatively, you can pick up fresh produce as easily be able to quench your thirst.
pretty scenic setting with a fantastic causeway you drive around as many of the farms have stalls
café. On Friday to Sunday evenings only, you can set up along the lanes where for a couple of USEFUL INFORMATION
join the locals in this gem of a Thai restaurant pounds you can purchase some delights (great
hideaway (details below). You may have to wait option if you are self catering on the island). Or May Liberation Day
for a table but it’s worth it – and you can bring head to the weekend market. Farm and craft June In bloom floral festival
your own wine too. markets are held throughout the spring and July The Jersey pilgrimage to hermitage at
summer months at St Brelade’s Parish hall in St Elizabeth Castle
GOOD PLACES TO STAY Aubin, or Weighbridge place in St Helier. August Battle of Flowers carnival
September Heritage open day and the autumn
■ Greenhill’s Country Hotel and Restaurant RESTAURANTS walking week
St Peter’s Valley ■ Suma’s October Cider festival – La Faîs’sie d’Cidre and
✆ 01534 481042 Gorey Hill, Gorey, St Martin the Black Butter making harvest
w www.greenhillshotel.com w www.sumasrestaurant.com December Christmas festival (La Fête dė Nouė)
Located near the airport, this hotel will truly open Has a great waterfront location at the beautiful
its heart to you as a guest – just read the visitors’ Gory harbour. Delicious seafood and beautiful ■ w www.jersey.com
book near reception to see how often people terrace views. ■ w www.jerseypass.com
return to this beautiful retreat. No stay here would Main meals from £12 ■ w www.jerseyheritage.org
For the magazine report on Jersey, see pg 42 of the July 2010 issue of Which? Holiday