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					                                                                                         Holiday                                                                           FREE
                                                                                                                                                                                                               July 2010

                                                                                                           Not just cows, knitwear and potatoes – this compact island
                                                                                                           really offers a huge variety of attractions for everyone
                                                                                                           ■ Blue Islands from Southampton                            you to scratch off a circular panel for the date
                                                                                                           ■ Easyjet from Liverpool                                   and time of your arrival in the car park. You need
                                                                                                           ■ Flybe from Aberdeen, Belfast City,                       to ensure you use enough of the parking discs
                                                                                                           Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Doncaster, Dundee,           to cover your whole stay. The Esplanade car
                                                         WHY GO?                                           Durham, Edinburgh, Exeter, Glasgow                         park, for example, requires one disc for one hour
                                                                                                           International, Glasgow Prestwick, Humberside,              of parking. Yet elsewhere this may not be the
                                                         Jersey, the largest of the five                   Inverness, London Gatwick, London Luton,                   case – so you need to check at each car park,
                                                         Channel Islands, is positioned                    Manchester, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton,               or on street signage to ensure you are not
                                                         only 23km off the French coast,                   Southend                                                   breaking any rules.
                                                         and as a result, it has a distinctive             ■ Jet2 from Belfast International, Blackpool,                 Car hire costs from around £38 a day.
                                                         European feel. However, being just                Leeds Bradford                                             Unleaded petrol is 105.8p per litre.
                                                         160km from the southern British                   ■ Manx 2 from Gloucestershire
                                                         shore, it also has that home-from-                                                                           THINGS TO SEE AND DO
                                                         home appeal.                                      GETTING AROUND
                                                           There are plenty of spectacular                                                                            ■ Jersey War Tunnel
                                                         sandy beaches, caves and rock                     This popular island measures only 14km by 8km,             Les Charrières Malorey, St Lawrence
                                                         pools to explore, while museums,                  so certain parts can get extremely crowded in the          ✆ 01534 860808
                                                         forts and castles – all chronicling               peak summer season. St Helier is not the most               w

                                                         Jersey’s rich heritage – are dotted               attractive capital city, and if visiting by car, parking   The Channel Islands were the only Great British
                                                         along the island’s perimeter.                     can be difficult. Most of the visitor attractions          territories to be occupied during World War II.
                                                                                                           have large free on-site parking (except those              You can visit the award-winning Jersey War
                                                                                                           located in St Helier, namely: the Jersey Museum,           Tunnel Museum to hear all about the impact this
                                                                                                           the Maritime Museum and Elizabeth Castle).                 gloomy period had on the island from those who
                                                      GETTING THERE                                        However, if visiting these you can park in the             lived through it. Allow two hours to walk around
                                                                                                           Esplande car park and walk five minutes to each            the subterranean museum, before taking time
                                                      You can travel to Jersey by sea or air. There        site (charges apply). Alternatively, you can catch         out in the small garden of reflection. It can get
                                                      is only one ferry company – Condor Ferries           the lovely Petit Train from St Helier’s St Aubin’s         cold deep in the tunnel – so make sure you wrap
                                                      ( w, ✆ 0845 609 1024)          Bay to cross the causeway to Elizabeth Castle              up for the below ground exploration.
                                                      operating across the southern helm of the            (train charge applies).                                       The War trail through the German anti-aircraft
                                                      English Channel. Crossings set off from                 The island Explorer bus operates throughout             battery is currently under development. This
                                                      Weymouth, Poole and Portsmouth, all taking           April to October, taking you to many of the tourist        museum is in the heart of the island at St

                                                      both foot passengers and vehicles.                   attractions. The local connex ‘mybus’ routes               Lawrence, with many bus routes taking you here
                                                                                                           operate throughout the year, covering the whole            or there is ample free parking.
                                                      AIR                                                  island ( w                                     There is also a café here that is open every
                                                      Regular flights depart from most regional airports      Parking on the rest of the island can be difficult      day, serving light snacks from 10am to 4.30pm,

                                                      in the UK direct to Jersey. The following airlines   as well – not only is it tricky at times to find           and main meals from 12noon to 3pm. Prices are
                                                      operate to the island (see w www.flightmapping.      spaces, but there are different rules and                  extremely reasonable, and the food is delicious
                                                      com for more information):                           regulations depending on your parking location.            – sandwiches cost from £2-£3 and mains, such
                                                      ■ Air France from London City                        You need to pre purchase parking discs, which              as golden scampi, range from £3 to £6.50 – with
                                                      ■ Air Southwest from Bristol, Plymouth               have to be displayed inside the window screen.             a selection of specials and a children’s menu also
                                                      ■ Aurigny from London Stansted                       These are available on the ferry, from most hotels         available. You can also savour some of Jersey’s
                                                      ■ British Airways from London Gatwick                and the tourist information office (opposite the           dairy delights – such as strawberries with cream
                                                      ■ BMIbaby from Bournemouth, Cardiff, East            Esplanade car park). You can buy books of 10               and creamy yoghurts, as well as scones, muffins
                                                      Midlands, Manchester                                 discs for £6.60. These paper ‘disc’ cards require          and gateaux. Also at the café, you can see the
                                                                              observation Tower that you              we’ve ever seen. Refreshments available, and
                                                                              can go down inside.                     there is a small picnic area in the grounds.
                                                                                   This is also one of the            Admission Adult £4, senior (65yrs+) £3.50, child
                                                                              locations on the fortification trail    £1. Jersey pass accepted
                                                                              depicted in the walks section           Open Wednesday-Saturday 10am-4pm
                                                                               (see below). Take in the leisurely     Local bus Routes 21, 4, 3a, 3b and 23. Ample free
                                                                               45 minute stroll around Noirmant       parking
                                                                               and discover the fortifications left
                                                                               behind from the last World War.        ■ Samarès Garden and Manor House
                                                                                   For bunker opening times see       St Clement
                                                                                 w or call      ✆ 01534 870551
                                                                                ✆ 01534 863699 (evening only)          w

                                            Christie Farm lavender field        to speak to the Channel Islands       This beautiful private garden and manor house
                                                                                Occupation Society – CIOS             is on the south tip of the island, a few minutes by
                                                                                (Jersey), whose volunteers run        road from St Helier. There’s an extensive herb
Occupation photographs – look for the person                these sites. Alternatively, you can speak to the          garden with a café – an ideal place to get away
on the identity card you received with you                  Jersey tourist information office on ✆ 01534              from the hustle and bustle of the capital. Walk the
entrance ticket.                                            448800 for opening times.                                 woodland trail, or the ‘jungle path’, and wander
Audio guide £3.50 (£10 refundable deposit)                  Admission Adult £2. Guide costs £1. Free parking          down to the beautiful Japanese Garden. Watch
Open Daily 1 March-28 November 10am-6pm                                                                               the bees close up from the safety of the ‘shed’,
(last admission 4.30pm)                                     ■ Millbrook                                               as they come and go in their hive. You’ll need at
Admission Adult £10.50, senior (65 yrs+) £9.50,             St Aubin’s Bay promenade, St Lawrence                     least two hours here to see the gardens in full.
student £7.50, child £6.50 (prices for 2010 only),          This single storey three-room bunker is located              There are guided tours throughout the day to
Jersey pass accepted                                        on the seafront at St Aubin Bay, opposite the Old         the on-site museum – ‘Jersey Rural life’ (10.30am
Local bus Routes 8 and 8a. Ample free parking               Station café. In some of the rooms you’ll find the        and 3.30pm everyday) and the ‘Herbs and their
                                                            original internal fittings, as the bunker was sealed      uses’ tour (Monday-Friday 12.30pm). You can also
■ Military Museum                                           and landscaped over instead of scrapped in the            tour the Manor House, but there is an additional
Jersey Woollen Mills, Five Mile Road, St Ouen               1950s like many of the other island casemates.            charge, Monday-Saturday 11.30am and 2.30pm.
This World War II restored German bunker                    Watch the video – usually showing the                        When you exit the garden centre you are
museum has a vast collection of both British and            occupation DVD (which is also available to                entitled to a free return visit. Ask at the shop for
German war memorabilia. The various bunker                  purchase at the St Helier’s bookshop).                    your complimentary return ticket – this is non
rooms were built by Ukraine and Russian slave               Open Some Saturdays and Sundays throughout                transferable and is valid for a further 14 days.
labourers. The thick original doors are seemingly           the summer months, contact CIOS for details                  You can even stay here on a self-catering
impossible to move. Watch your step.                        Admission Donation, minimum £1 per adult (child           basis. The manor house and gardens have three
   The museum is located at the rear of the                 entry free)                                               apartments and a further three holiday cottages
Jersey Woollen Mills (opposite the Jersey pearl).                                                                     that are available to rent through April to October
Admission Adult £4, child £2 and under 5s free              ■ Lavender Farm                                           (properties not inspected by us).
 – no senior discount, no Jersey pass                       Rue du Pont Marquet, St Brelade                           Admission Adult £6.75, senior (65yrs+) £6.20,
Open Daily 10am-5pm. Free parking                           ✆ 01534 742933                                            child/student £2.35. The Jersey pass allows you
                                                             w                               free access to the gardens, along with the
■ Maritime Museum and Occupation Tapestry                   Here at the Christie family farm, you can wander          museum and herb garden guided tours. But the
Gallery                                                     around the lavender and herb gardens of their             guided tour of the manor house is an additional
New North Quay, St Helier                                   home – feed the hens that potter around the               charge of £3.45 adult and £2.95 senior.
 w                                   gypsy caravan and watch the on-site distillation          Open Daily April-October 9.30am-5pm
This is two museums in one – you can visit the              and bottling of the range of lavender products.           Bus Explorer bus route Green, as well as local
maritime museum and the Occupation Tapestry                 With over 80 varieties of the vivid violet plant          bus routes 18 and 1a. Plenty of free parking
together. The 12 tapestries on display in this new          growing (many plants for sale), you can sample
ground floor exhibition were created to mark the            some of the produce before purchasing a few               ■ Jersey Museum and Art Gallery
50th anniversary of the islands occupation.                 of the lavender delights from the shop, or even           The Weighbridge, St Helier
Admission Adult £7.50, senior (65yrs+) £7, child            in the veranda café Sprigs.                                w

£4.50 and under 5s free. Jersey pass accepted               Admission During harvest period 8 June-15                 Located at the far end of the Esplanade, passed
Open Daily 9.30am-5pm. No parking                           August): adult £4.80, senior (65yrs+) £4.30, child        the famous Pomme d’Or Hotel is the Jersey
                                                            £4.50 and under 14s free. Jersey pass accepted.           Museum. Here you can relive the islands history
■ German bunkers                                            Reduced fee of £2.95 to the gardens and farm at           over the beautifully presented four floors of
The anticipated Allied invasion never came – but            other times                                               exhibition space. Start at the top in the restored
for five years Jersey became part of Hitler’s               Open March-31 Oct (closed Monday) 10am-5pm                Victorian merchant home – see how the rich lived
impregnable fortress, and some of these restored Bus Explorer bus route Blue (and 5 minute walk),                     in their roomy home full of reproduced fixtures
war relics are occasionally open to the public              as well as local bus route 12a and 15. Free parking       and fittings (right down to the hot water bottles
– each telling the traumatic story of those years                                                                     of the time on the beds).
under gruelling Nazi occupation.                            ■ Eric Young Orchid Foundation                               On the ground floor is a theatre room playing
                                                            Victoria village, Trinity                                 the ‘moments in time’ video from the carefree
■ Batterie Lothringen                                       ✆ 01534 861963                                            days of holidaying on the island through to the
Noirmont Point                                               w                    years under the Nazi occupation. The video
This is one of the largest sites, not only is there a       Within a landscaped garden you’ll find this               takes over an hour, with many amateur video
two floor command bunker, but you’ll also find an           nursery complex of the best collection of orchids         clips pieced together.
Admission Adult £8, senior (65yrs+) £7, child/                                               Gerald Durrell     white wine ‘Domaine’ was our favourite, but by
student £4.50. Jersey pass accepted                                                                             joining the tour you get to sample a generous
Open Daily April-Oct 9.30am-5pm. No parking                                                                     selection of three wines and plenty of apple
                                                                                                                brandy fudge and jersey cream liqueur – all
■ Mont Orgueil Castle                                                                                           topped off with a rather delicious chocolate disc.
Gorey, St Martin                                                                                                Admission Adult £8.50, senior (65yrs+) £7.50,
w                                                                                        child/student £6
The fortifications of the island are numerous –                                                                 Open Daily April-October 10am-5pm, Nov-Dec
our favourite was the 13th-century Mont Orgueil                                                                 Mon-Fri 10am-3.30pm
Castle on the east coast near the beautiful Gorey                                                               Bus Explorer bus route yellow, or local bus route
Harbour. Climb to the top for fantastic views                                                                   7. Free parking
across to Normandy.
Admission Adult £10, senior (65yrs+) £9, child/                                                                 ■ Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust
student £6. Jersey pass accepted                                                                                Les Augrès Manor, La Profonde Rue, Trinity
Open Daily April-Oct 10am-6pm                                                                                   w

Bus Explorer bus route Green, as well as local                                                                  Novelist and conservationist Gerald Durrell
bus routes 1 and 1b. Limited free parking                                                                       opened the Jersey Zoo (Durrell Wildlife
                                                                                                                Conservation Trust) in Trinity in 1959 to attempt to
■ Jersey Living Legend Village                             chamber which runs approximately 20 metres           preserve the life of many endangered species.
La Rue du Petit Aleval, St. Peter                          underground. You can climb to the top of the         Spend a day in the beautiful 32 acre
 w                           mound, and visit the two roomed medieval             surroundings, and try and spot the elusive
The Jersey story show takes you on a journey               chapel. There is also a WWII bunker that has         aye-ayes. Or watch the orang-utans and gorillas
through the history of the island from St Helier           been recently turned into a memorial for the         at feeding time.
through to the society girl Lille Langtry (one of the      thousands of slave workers from around Europe        Admission Adult £12, senior (65yrs+) £7, child/
most famous Jern’s). Narrated by ‘Bergerac’ –              who were forced to construct the many concrete       student £4.50. Jersey pass accepted
John Nettles, and a host of other celebrities.             ‘creations’ throughout the island during the five    Open Daily 9.30am-6pm
The Jersey Story show Adult £7.50, senior                  years of German occupation.                          Bus Explorer bus route Green and Yellow, or local
(65yrs+) £6.50, child/student £4-£5. Jersey pass           Admission Adult £6.70, Senior (65yrs+) £5.70,        bus route 3a, 3b and 23. Ample free parking
accepted for show                                          Children and students £4.20. Jersey pass
Admission Free to enter village grounds. Crazy             accepted                                             WHICH? HOLIDAY TIP If you’re planning to visit
golf and go-karting additional charges apply.              Open Daily April-October 10am-5pm                    a few of the attractions listed above, then you
Open Daily April-October 9.30am-5pm.                       Bus Explorer bus route Green, as well as local       may want to consider purchasing the Jersey
Bus Explorer bus routes Red and Yellow, as well            bus route 3a. Free parking.                          Pass. This allows you to enter many of the Jersey
as local bus route 8a. Ample free parking                                                                       heritage visitor attractions for free. Passes are
                                                           ■ Elizabeth Castle                                   available online or from the tourist information
■ Battle of Flowers Museum                                 St Aubin’s Bay, St Helier                            office and a handful of the attractions ( w www.
La Robeline, Mont Des Corvees, St Ouen                      w                   The cost of the pass is £32 for
Florence Bechelet, the founder of this museum,             This 16th-century castle can be reached twice a      two days, £45 for four days and £59 for six days,
has exhibited her unique ‘wild flower’ float               day by a short 15 minute walk along the lithe        per person.
creations at the annual famous Battle of Flowers           causeway at St Aubin’s Bay when the tied is out.
carnival since the early 1930’s. This museum, at           If however your visit is not at these particular     WALKS AND CYCLING
her family farm, opened in 1971 – and even                 times, or the walk is too exerting – fear not, you   Jersey is a great location for walking, with some
though the award-winning floats on show here               can take another remnant of WWII, the US             tremendous trails. Autumn marks the island’s
have somewhat faded through the years – the                ‘DUCK’. There are at least two of these delightful   walking week (11-18 September), with free guided
intricate details are still visible. A float could take    aqua vehicles that will bump or glide you across     ‘around island’ or heritage walks.
up to eight months to create and she has worked            in a matter of minutes to the sounds of 007.            Our favourites were the leisurely 45 minute
tirelessly on her designs, winning over 80 awards.             This Tudor fort defended the island for nearly   stroll around Noirmont Point to the south of the
Admission Adult £5. No Jersey pass                         300 years, and was named ‘Isabella Bellissima’       island, discovering the fortifications left behind
Open Daily 10am-5pm                                        by Sir Walter Raleigh, in honour of his beloved      from the last World War.
Explorer bus route Red – alighting at Route De             Queen Elizabeth I.                                      Besides the ones listed in the report – the walk
Trodez. Free parking.                                      Admission Adult £8.50, senior (65yrs+) £7.50,        #6 from the Tourist information office
    And since King Edward VII’s coronation in              child/student £6. Castle only prices – ferry         ‘Discovering Rozel Bay’ is also a pleasant hour
1902, the island has celebrated the annual ‘Battle         crossing are an additional £2.50 per person.         stroll. Starting at L’Etacquerel Fort, you follow the
of Flowers’ carnival. If visiting in August (12th-13th),   Jersey pass accepted, which also allows you free     signs to White Rock (Le Catel de Rozel), where
you can witness this topiary spectacle yourself –          return ‘ferry’ crossing                              you then continue on towards the charming bay
no longer with the ‘battle’ element of ripping the         Open Daily April-October 10am-6pm (last              at Rozel to the north of the island.
flowers off the festooned floats, but still as much        admittance 5pm)                                         Another walk was to the Corbière Lighthouse
celebrated on the island – now with a moonlight            Bus All bus routes stop at Liberation square in St   on the west of the island. Follow the old railway
parade too ( w                   Helier, and then a short walk to the castle kiosk.   line from St Helier to Corbière – the island no
                                                                                                                longer has a rail service. Or on the opposite side
■ La Hougue Bie                                            ■ La Mare Vineyard                                   from the La Mare Wine Estate, you can hike along
La Route de la Hougue Bie, Grouville                       La Route de Hogue Mauger, St Mary                    the beautiful well manicured coastal pathway to
w                                    w                          Greve de Lecq beach. Parts of the walk are on
This pre-historic location attracts many visitors          Since 1972, La Mare has been producing the           tarmac – otherwise known in Jersey as ‘green
who flock here to clamber through the druid                islands wine from this northern location. The dry    lanes’. They are very safe, as cyclist and hikers
                                                                                                                ■ Bonne Nuit Beach café
                                                                                                                La Charrieres De Bonne Nuit

                                                                                                                On Friday to Sunday evenings (5.30pm-8.45pm),
                                                                                                                this café doubles as a gem of a Thai restaurant.
                                                                                                                Popular with locals, you may have to wait for a
                                                                                                                table – but it’s worth it.
                                                                                                                   Pay extra for the king prawn as they are
                                                                                                                deliciously fresh and cooked to perfection. The
                                                                                                                Green Thai curry really is good. Unlicensed, but
                                                                                                                you can bring your own wine.

                                                                                                                ■ St Saviours
                                                                                                                Longueville Hotel and restaurant, St Saviour

                                                                                                                A choice of lunch or three dinner menus to
                                                                                                                decide from – each with a great selection of
                                                                                                                dishes. Make sure you leave room for the
                                                                                                                desserts as the crème brulles are the best.
                                                                                                                A two course lunch menu from £17

have the right of way and cars are capped at            be complete without sampling the delicious              ■ Greenhills
24km per hour. The walk typically takes less            delights at the AA rosette restaurant – a               Greenhill’s country hotel and restaurant, St
than two hours.                                         four-course set menu from £31.                          Peter’s Valley
   Cycling is also another option, Jersey has           Standard double room B&B from £110                       w

clearly marked cycle routes covering                                                                            A nice a la carte selection – but the real value is in
approximately 155km of coast and countryside.           ■ Longueville Manor Hotel and Restaurant                the set four course dinner. A lighter lunch option
                                                        St Saviour                                              is also available. Even if you are a resident guest,
BEACHES AND BAYS                                        ✆ 01534 725501                                          it’s best to book a table. Four course set menu
If you want to escape the crowds, Jersey has             w                             £28 plus 10% service charge.
over 32km of golden sandy beaches for you to            The hotel is situated only a few minutes by car
choose from. Our favourites were St Brelade’s           from St Helier, but it’s a world apart in its beauty    CAFÉS
Bay and Ouaisne Bay on the southwest coast,             and ambiance. The hospitality you’ll receive at         For a lighter option there are many places
and the Bay of Grouville on the east coast of the       Longueville Manor is exceptional. Double room           throughout the island that serve the traditional
island. There is plenty of sand and the water           B&B from £200.                                          Jersey cream tea. Most of the islands good
(although cold) was calmer than many of the                                                                     hotels offer this selection (both Greenhills and
other more popular beach areas. Beware, that            GOOD PLACES TO EAT                                      Longueville).
the water in some parts of the island experiences                                                                  However, at the Lavender farm (details above)
great tidal shifts – so be careful.                     Jersey offers some culinary delights – food is          they add a twist using their lavender product in
    St Ouen’s Bay on the west coast is popular          traditionally English with a French flare, and you’ll   the scone, or at La Mare wine estate (details
with water sports enthusiasts – and the miles of        find plenty of fresh island produce. Meals are not      above), you can sample their own preserves
beach here plays host to sand racing – we saw           cheap though, we found costs similar to those           (especially the spiced Black Butter). With many
Harley-Davidson motorcycles on our visit. Bonne         found in London.                                        tearooms dotted throughout the island, you’ll
Nuit Bay on the rugged north coast is also a               Alternatively, you can pick up fresh produce as      easily be able to quench your thirst.
pretty scenic setting with a fantastic causeway         you drive around as many of the farms have stalls
café. On Friday to Sunday evenings only, you can        set up along the lanes where for a couple of            USEFUL INFORMATION
join the locals in this gem of a Thai restaurant        pounds you can purchase some delights (great
hideaway (details below). You may have to wait          option if you are self catering on the island). Or      May Liberation Day
for a table but it’s worth it – and you can bring       head to the weekend market. Farm and craft              June In bloom floral festival
your own wine too.                                      markets are held throughout the spring and              July The Jersey pilgrimage to hermitage at
                                                        summer months at St Brelade’s Parish hall in St         Elizabeth Castle
GOOD PLACES TO STAY                                     Aubin, or Weighbridge place in St Helier.               August Battle of Flowers carnival
                                                                                                                September Heritage open day and the autumn
■ Greenhill’s Country Hotel and Restaurant              RESTAURANTS                                             walking week
St Peter’s Valley                                       ■ Suma’s                                                October Cider festival – La Faîs’sie d’Cidre and
✆ 01534 481042                                          Gorey Hill, Gorey, St Martin                            the Black Butter making harvest
 w                               w                              December Christmas festival (La Fête dė Nouė)
Located near the airport, this hotel will truly open    Has a great waterfront location at the beautiful
its heart to you as a guest – just read the visitors’   Gory harbour. Delicious seafood and beautiful           ■   w
book near reception to see how often people             terrace views.                                          ■   w
return to this beautiful retreat. No stay here would    Main meals from £12                                     ■   w

           For the magazine report on Jersey, see pg 42 of the July 2010 issue of Which? Holiday

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