Docstoc

A WHOLE LOTTA WAT Cambodia

Document Sample
A WHOLE LOTTA WAT Cambodia Powered By Docstoc
					*April05_5   4/7/05   6:09 PM      Page 1




             STUDENTTRAVELER.COM                                                      APRIL/MAY2005




                                                                   A WHOLE
                                                                   LOTTA WAT
                                                                   The ultimate
                                                                   temple tour of
                                                                   Cambodia

      ENGLISH BOOT CAMP
      Getting a teaching job in
      Italy   —and keeping it.




    Crashing at the Airport • Estonian Ice Cricket • Paris by Night • The Best Parties in Europe
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:10 PM   Page 2
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:10 PM   Page 3
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:10 PM   Page 4




                                         "The TEFL International Certificate Courses are among the
                                                                    best
                                              of their kind; excellent trainers, teaching modern
                                                              methodologies,
                                            with input from some of the brightest minds in ESL.
                                                  I highly recommend TEFL International."
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:10 PM   Page 5
*April05_5      4/7/05        6:11 PM        Page 6




   CONTENTS


                   DEPARTMENTS
                   10 CAMBIO: GETTING CARDED: A survey of student discount cards
                          that offer everything from cheap flights to (gulp!) legal aid.

                   12 BUNK: CRASHING AT THE AIRPORT: Kate Dorrell discovers the
                          cost of her ultra-cheap intra-European flight has an unusual
                          "tax"-- spending the night in London's airport.

                   14 GRUB: DINING IN THE DARK: Christina Couch goes “Dans le
                          Noir” in search of the City of Lights’ dimmest, tastiest prix fixe.

                   30 SCOOP: PUT YOUR FEST FOOT FORWARD: Summertime is party
                          time in Europe, with festivals both hip (world music in
                          Budapest) and wacky (a Spanish tomato war).

                   34 PLAY: BATTING IN THE BALTIC: What do you do when your
                          national cricket team is ranked last in the world? Invite the
                          world to a tournament at home—on the ice.

                   38 OUR3CENTS:       PROOF OF LIFE: CCing Mom on your monthly
                          mass e-mail is so 1998. Check out these new and retro
                          ways to keep the folks up-to-date on your vital signs.


      FEATURE
                             CAMBODIA, WAT
     18                      TO WAT TO WAT
                             On the ultimate temple tour of a tragic king-
                             dom, MATT GROSS ponders the big issues: life,
                             death, government corruption, auto-genocide,
                             the futility of monumental architecture, and
                             the toilet-flushing origin of mankind.



                    TEACHING ABROAD SPECIAL
                                          BOOT CAMPin Italy and start
                  26                      Think you can just show up
                                          teaching English? Well, actually, you can. But
                                          JESSICA JOHNSON knows that making a living
                                          requires more than a native speaker’s knowl-
                                          edge of phrasal verbs—it takes patience, a
                                          taste for tax law, and a little bit of cunning.
                                   28 TEACHING ABROAD DIRECTORY

   Cover: 100-Wat smile, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Photo: Daniel Walsh. This page: New perspectives on Angkor Wat. Photo: Matt Gross
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:11 PM   Page 7
*April05_5                      4/7/05      6:11 PM   Page 8




    [redeye]
             ulture shock is a messy thing. Stepping into a
       C     land where the language is an aural flood of
       confusion, the customs don’t make the slightest
                                                                                                                                                                              Volume 8, Number 5

                                                                                                                                                                                   PUBLISHER
       sense, and clearly you dress differently than every-                                                                                                                      Eric Tiettmeyer
       one else.
                                                                                                                                                                                     EDITOR




                                                                                                                                       Photo: Couretsty of Jeff Booth
       That’s exactly how I felt coming back to the United                                                                                                                         Jeff Booth
       States.
                                                                                                                                                                               EDITOR-AT-LARGE
                                                                                                                                                                                   Matt Gross
       After nearly two years in Europe, my pants are tailor
       cut, I’m shocked at the size of cars and parking lots,                                                                                                                    ART DIRECTOR
       and American accents sound terribly mealy-                                                                                                                                 Bonnie Yoon
       mouthed. But when I open my mouth to speak,
                                                                                                                                                                            ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
       trust me, I sound just like you. Because, despite a                                                                                                                      Richard Steel
       bad command of Italian now and a preference for
       real espresso over anything at Charbucks, traveling      The perspective of an outsider in my hometown is disconcerting                                                Account Executive
       abroad has only confirmed to me my red-blooded           and liberating. I feel terribly different than most, but, that’s ok,                                             Jen Taggart
       American-ness. But please don’t confuse that with        because my experiences abroad have made me a bit different.
                                                                                                                                                                                  Web Master
       flag-waving nationalism.                                 This just also serves to highlight the similarities though, where                                                Mindy LaBarge
                                                                I’m deeply rooted to American culture: wide-open wild spaces,
       Returning to the States has upset me with my new         late-night diners, finding fresh edamame at the local grocery                                                   Distribution
       perspective, and made other aspects (no place else       store, and fresh Moroccan couscous on the corner restaurant,                                                 Campus Connect, Inc.
       on Earth is as wonderfully diverse) comfortable and      and cheap live music in dim bars packed full.
                                                                                                                                                                                    INTERNS
       welcoming. That’s what travel is supposed to go –                                                                                                                         Melissa Berlant
       give one new glasses to see both the exotic and the      So when you go abroad, expect to have your expectations                                                          Gretelle Daffon
       familiar in fresh light. That light can be a bit harsh   turned upside down and be thrown for a cultural loop. Then                                                      Stephanie Benas
       and glaring at times. Like whenever I have to walk       come home, and be ready for it all over again. But if you get
       into a Walmart. But the same critical eye I had for                                                                                                                       CONTRIBUTORS
                                                                into the global twists, it’s a hell of a fun roller coast ride.
                                                                                                                                                                        Andy Barr, Angus Bell, Christina
       corrupt Italian politics and quaint Swiss villages I’m                                                                                                           Couch, Ian Dorant, Kate Dorrell,
       turning back on the country I’m from.                    Upside down and in another country,                                                                     Art Gimbel, Matt Goulding, Matt
                                                                                                                                                                          Gross, Jessica N. Johnson,
                                                                                                                                                                        Amanda Kendle, Geo D. Oliver,
                                                                                                                                                                                 David Wootton

                                                                                                                                                                           PUBLICATION INFORMATION
                                                                                                                                                                          Student Traveler is published
     [contributors’ bios]




                                                                                                                                                                        five times a year and distributed
                                                                                                                                                                           on 1,375 college campuses.
                                                                                                                                                                               140,000 circulation.

                                                                                                                                                                               ADDITIONAL COPIES
                                                                                                                                                                         Study Abroad advisers, e-mail
                                                                                                                                                                          eric@studenttraveler.com for
                                                                                                                                                                                additional copies.

                                                                                                                                                                            EDITORIAL SUBMISSIONS
                                                                                                                                                                           jeff@studenttraveler.com

                                                                                                                                                                        Opinions within are those of the
                                                                                                                                                                         contributors. Student Traveler
                                                                                                                                                                           does not endorse any of the
       Last fall, MATT GROSS quit his job in New York to go traveling around Southeast Asia for three months. As far as we                                              products or services within, and
       know, he’s still there, and still writing unusual songs (“A Whole Lotta Wat,” page 18).                                                                           cannot be held responsible for
                                                                                                                                                                          individual travelers’ choices.
       ANGUS BELL is a whiskey-swilling, kilt-wearing Scotsman who spends his life pursuing misfortune for the sake of a
                                                                                                                                                                            Advertising inquiries can
       good story (“Batting the Baltics,” page 34). At present, he is attempting to build a career as a media whore, minus the
                                                                                                                                                                                   be made to:
       cocaine (angusjjbell.com).                                                                                                                                        714 W. Olympic Blvd. Suite 701
                                                                                                                                                                              Los Angeles, CA 90015
       KATE DORRELL is an Australian freelance writer based in London. With a passion for traveling and snowboarding, she                                                       Tel (800) 552-7157
       goes to great lengths to do both, including overnighting in airports (“Crashing at the Airport,” page 12). She has lived                                                 Fax (213) 747-8614
                                                                                                                                                                           rich@studenttraveler.com
       in the U.S., Canada, and Ireland.
                                                                                                                                                                              StudentTraveler.com

          8                 www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:11 PM   Page 9




    ADVERTORIAL
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:11 PM   Page 10




      [cambio]                                [cambio: INFORMATION EXCHANGE]

                                                          GETTING CARDED
                                                          QUESTION: DO STUDENT ID
                                                          CARDS REALLY SAVE YOU
                                                          CASH WHEN TRAVELING?
                                                          ANSWER: DAMN STRAIGHT!
                                                          by ERIC TIETTMEYER

                                                                   etting a credit card is on just

                                                          G        about every college freshman’s
                                                                   to-do list, somewhere between
                                                          buying textbooks and plotting a room-
                                                          mate’s demise. But in the last several
                                                          years, increasing numbers of students
                                                          are also opting for travel discount cards
                                                          that offer everything from cheaper
                                                          plane tickets to health insurance.

                                                          The International Student Identity Card
                                                          (myisic.com), issued by STA Travel, may
                                                          be the most popular. For just $22 per
                                                          calendar year, the ISIC offers more than
                                                          32,000 discounts—$3 off the Louvre!—
                                                          and fabulous deals on plane tickets:
                                                          One Los Angeles–to–Sydney flight was
                                                          $700 with a student fare, $900 with-
                                                          out. More importantly, the ISIC includes
                                                          travel insurance underwritten by Travel
                                                          Guard: $100-per-day sickness and hos-
                                                          pital benefit and $250,000 emergency
                                                          evacuation.

                                                          The ISE card is similar to the ISIC—$22
                                                          per year, discount airfare, limited med-
                                                          ical insurance—but it guarantees that
                                                          every establishment, from bookstores to
                                                          opera houses, in the 100-country data-
                                                          base on its Website (isecard.com) will
                                                          grant a discount. And for those times of
                                                          high stress—lost passports, missed
                                                          flights, assorted legal difficulties—ISE
                                                          offers a toll-free 24-hour hotline with
                                                          operators who speak 24 languages.

                                                          Though it offers few discounts at stores
                                                          and      tourist     sites,   Hostelling
                                                          International (HIUSA.org) offers addi-
                                                          tional hookups in terms of accommoda-
                                                          tions, phone calls, and travel insurance.
                                                          For $28, the card gives you member
                                                          benefits to the HI network of 4,000 hos-
                                                          tels worldwide: an average of 10 per-
                                                          cent off the room. The HIUSA card dou-
                                                          bles as an ekit phone card, with interna-
                                                          tional rates of up to 85 percent off.

     10   www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:11 PM   Page 11
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:11 PM      Page 12




    [BUNK]            CRASHING AT THE AIRPORT                                                                                                    by KATE DORRELL
                                                            E NEW TWIST
                         LONDON'S NIGHTLIFE TAKES ON A WHOL
                                                       S AT THE AIRPORT
                     WHEN YOU'RE SPENDING THE WEE HOUR
               ONDON IS A HUB FOR BUDGET AIRLINES. Ryan Air,



     L         Easy Jet, Whizz Air and others lure budget travelers with
               flights for as little as one English pound. That’s about the
               price of a Big Mac. They do it by cutting out the extras like
               meals, reserved seating and baggage allowance. They fly
     from runways so on the fringe they can hardly be called London air-
     ports. And they takeoff at absurd hours.

     I like to boast to my friends back home in the States that, from
     London, I can be anywhere in Europe within a few hours. Well, it’s true
     that it’s only a 90-minute flight to the French Alps, but my flight does-
     n’t leave for seven hours and I’m already en route.

     London’s Stansted airport is too far to drive to, and besides, friends
     with cars are a rarity in London, where the tube service will take you
     everywhere in half the time. But, London’s rail services begin too late
     for me to make my 6.25am flight. I’m on the 11.00pm Stansted
     Express – the second-to-last train for the night. The train is packed full
     of people and suitcases for the 45-minute journey to the airport – a
     good amount of time to reflect on the fact that getting to the airport
     often costs about as much as your flight - £26 return.

     My plan is to find a soft padded bench to spend the night on, and
     then find my travel companions, whom I have not met before.

     I responded to an ad for snowboarders on a travel website, posted
     by an Australian guy called Daniel. I’m slightly dubious about him
     because he writes all his emails in capital letters, but my desire to
     go snowboarding won out over my fear of PEOPLE WHO WRITE IN
     CAPITALS.

     But there’s no empty seat to be found: Stansted is buzzing. It’s as
     though I’ve arrived at the shopping mall on a Saturday morning, only
     the shops are closed, and the people are pushing trolleys around, or
     setting up sleeping bags, or sitting around staring into space, or read-
     ing The Da Vinci Code (or if they’ve already read that, Angels and           flat metal surface, of about enough          day. That will most certainly send me
     Demons).                                                                     space to fit a man. In fact, almost the      to sleep, I think, rustling about
                                                                                  exact size of the elderly man perched        through my bag looking for it. The
     I grab a trolley, as my bag and snowboard are heavy. I walk the entire       there, tucked into his sleeping bag,         curled-up man to my right looks my
     length of the airport looking for a seat, suppressing any guilt that         breathing heavily in my direction. Old       way, disapproving of the loud zipper
     arises from disturbing those stretched out on sleeping bags with the         and young alike are sacrificing sleep and    noises. But Treasure Island only makes
     loud rumble of my trolley. To compensate, I tiptoe and hold my breath.       comfort to save a buck.                      me want to take my own adventure
                                                                                                                               around the airport: I need to be physi-
     Floor space is precious; bodies and sleeping bags are everywhere. I          Surrounded by desperate and exhausted        cally tired. I ask the old lady if she‘ll
     eventually find a seat, and wedge myself between a middle-aged man           budget travelers, I prop my feet on my bag   keep an eye on my bags for five min-
     and an elderly woman. The man is curled awkwardly between the                for security, close my eyes and bow my       utes, so that Louis Robert Stevenson
                                                                                                                                                                           Photos: Geo D. Oliver




     armrests of his seat, his head leaning forward onto his bag, which is        head. However, I’m too busy doubting that    and I can go get a coffee. I feel I have
     in turn propped up by his trolley. The woman is reading, but I can’t         I’ll get any rest in such distracting and    again breached the Code of Airport
     recognise her book—it’s not a Dan Brown.                                     uncomfortable conditions, that I don’t.      Etiquette: no moving about, no open-
                                                                                                                               ing and closing bags, and no talking to
     The row of seats back onto another row facing the opposite direction.        I’ve brought Treasure Island with me,        strangers trying to sleep.
     There is a gap between the seat rows that is joined at the top by a          determined to finish reading it this holi-

     12   www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:11 PM      Page 13




                                                                                                               There are two 24-hour cafés in the terminal. I’m
                                                                                                               not hungry, but I buy a cappuccino and a sand-
                                                                                                               wich. It’s midnight - only six hours and 45 min-
                                                                                                               utes to go. I dawdle back past the sleeping bod-
                                                                                                               ies to my seat. There’s no need to hurry.

                                                                                                               The curled-up man flicks his head up, grunts and
                                                                                                               curls back into position, his feet precariously close
                                                                                                               to my space. I struggle along with Treasure
                                                                                                               Island, trying not to think about other things,
                                                                                                               when my phone rings. Evil looks fly from every
                                                                                                               direction. Another breach of the Code.

                                                                                                               “Hello?” I whisper. It’s Daniel. He is in the café
                                                                                                               with Adam, the third snowboarder. I gather
                                                                                                               together my luggage, causing more unrest from
                                                                                                               those around me. ‘Can’t you just settle?’ their
                                                                                                               annoyed expressions ask.



         “
         IT'S ONLY A 90-MINUTE FLIGHT TO THE
     FRENCH ALPS, BUT MY FLIGHT DOESN'T LEAVE FOR
                                                                                                               I tiptoe back to the café, as the trolley scrapes
                                                                                                               and wobbles along. There are two men staring at
                                                                                                               me in the café. I’m excited because they look
                                                                                                               very continental: sipping lattes with their legs
     SEVEN HOURS AND I'M ALREADY EN ROUTE.
                                                                                               ”               crossed, and wearing polo-neck sweaters. Just as
                                                                                                               I’m preparing for a week of espresso drinking
                                                                                                               and intellectual discussion, they turn their eyes
                                                                                                               away from me. I stop mid-stride, feeling embar-
                                                                                                               rassed for blatantly staring so over-enthusiasti-
                                                                                                               cally at them.

                                                                                                               There are no other two-men combos at the café. I
                                                                                                               call Daniel. He is at the other café. Two 24-hour
                                                                                                               cafes in this small airport. You would almost mis-
                                                                                                               take it for day, except for the eerie fluorescent
                                                                                                               lighting. Time has no meaning in Stansted,
                                                                                                               except in relation to when your flight taxis away.

                                                                                                               They spot me easily, from the noise of my trolley
                                                                                                               and the sight of my red snowboard bag. After
                                                                                                               quick introductions, we decide to sleep. We can
   LOWDOWN                                                                                                     get to know each other later. It’s 1a.m.
   AIRPORT SLEEPING ETIQUETTE                                                                                  We find a spot next to a check-in counter. I
   RULE1     If you want to be at the top of the hierarchy of sleepers, arrive early to reserve prime space.   arrange my snowboard clothes into a soft bed
                                                                                                               and wrap my towel around some clothes to make
   RULE2     Save space for others at your own risk of passer-by’s muttering in your direction.                a pillow. I use my duffel coat as a quilt. It’s sur-
                                                                                                               prisingly comfortable, and despite the motorised
   RULE3     Be aware that trolleys are in fact incredibly noisy and for essential use only.
                                                                                                               floor sweeper humming past every half hour, I
   RULE4     Talking is to be avoided, but in emergencies you many speak in a hushed whisper.                  sleep solidly until I am awoken by a repetitive,
                                                                                                               high-pitched voice asking: “Have you got your
   RULE5     Do not approach anyone. It is like entering their home.                                           passport? Did you pack your own bags? Any
                                                                                                               sharp items?”
   RULE6     Switch your cell phone to silent.

   RULE7     Do not at any time, breach basic human rights by placing any part of your body over the           Soon, I’m on my flight to Lyon, already feeling jet-
             imaginary half way mark between you and your neighbour.                                           lagged. I will no doubt tell my friends back home
                                                                                                               how I live just 90 minutes from the French Alps.
   RULE8     If your neighbour is in breach of Rule 7, promptly assert your authoritare with a sharp           They don’t need to know that you could techni-
             elbow movement.
                                                                                                               cally make it to Tokyo in same time it takes me to
   RULE9     If you have read The Da Vinci Code, do not discuss the plot ruining it for everyone else.         get anywhere in Europe on a shoestring.

   RULE10 Do not set an alarm. It has already been arranged that you will be woken by the sounds of
          airport staff arriving.                                                                                                     www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com   13
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:11 PM      Page 14




    [GRUB]            DINING IN THE DARK IN THE CITY OF LIGHTS
                                                                                                                                               by CHRISTINA COUCH




                                                                   GO TOGETHER, BUT
          "NICE RESTAURANTS " AND "BUDGET TRAVEL" DON'T USUALLY
                                                         ROUS TRAVEL" DO.
                     "UNIQUE EXPERIENCE" AND "ADVENTU
                                                                  UAL RESTAURANT
            CLOSE YOUR EYES AN D SPLURGE A BIT IN PARIS' MOST UNUS




                   ’M SEATED COMFORTABLY IN                 which gives you a choice between four appetizers,        the dull side of our knives, we dropped food on



          I        DANS LE NOIR, one of the scores of
                   restaurants littering the Centre
                   Pompidou side of Paris’ fourth
                   arrondissement. Across from me, I
     can hear my dinner companions’ empty fork
     scratch his plate. I can feel the woman beside me
                                                            four entrees, and four desserts (33 Euros for three
                                                            courses, 27 for two) or the Menu Surprise which,
                                                            just like it sounds, is a complete gastronomic sur-
                                                            prise (33 Euros for the full meal, 25 for two
                                                            rounds). We placed our orders, three of the four
                                                            of us opting for the Menu Surprise, and waited by
                                                                                                                     the floor, we dropped food on the table, we
                                                                                                                     dropped food on each other.

                                                                                                                     At no point in my adult life have I ever felt so unex-
                                                                                                                     pectedly dependent for the most simplistic of
                                                                                                                     needs. How can I pour a glass of water without
     giggle like a six year old with a secret. I have no    the door until our dinner guide straightened us          spilling? Where is the meat actually located on this
     idea what I’ve ordered and when it arrives, the        into single-file, hand-holding lines, and led us         plate? Are my eyes open or closed? Are other peo-
     texture and smell stick out in my mind more than       through curtains to our table.                           ple even here or is this just someone’s TV set in the
     the actual taste of the food. In Paris, this is just                                                            background? Why do I feel so alone? Can you
     like dining in any other place, except for one small   The experience of suddenly walking into a place          imagine life like this? These questions are the over-
     difference. We’re eating in complete, liquid pitch     that is darker than anything you’ve ever seen            riding mission of Dans Le Noir and the silliness, the
     darkness, literally dans le noir, in the black. Dans   before is jarring in and of itself. The experience of    helplessness, the quiet contemplation are all as
     Le Noir is Paris’ social and culinary experiment: a    spending a two and a half hour meal immersed in          much a part of your meal as the dishes themselves.
     restaurant designed to emulate the dining experi-      what I would imagine a space void feels like is ter-
     ence of the blind, manned entirely by a blind wait-    rifying, disorienting, exotic, and tranquil all at the   Dans Le Noir isn’t just a restaurant, it’s an experi-
     staff. Here, cell phones, watches, lighters, and       same time. Our dinner party summed it up well,           ential lesson using food as a medium. Dishes
     anything else that can produce light is checked at     “It’s not so much dark as it is just nothing.” Being     came and went, phantom people passed by, life
     the door and patrons experience a two to three         without the ability to visually judge or be judged       somewhere out in the shapeless black continued
     course meal without the benefit of knowing             gives way to a sort of childish liberation where         without our awareness as to who or what was con-
     where, and in some cases, what, they’re eating.        you can freely make faces at your dinnermates or         ducting it. We fumbled through dessert and we
     Welcome to one of the most surreal educational         scratch yourself anywhere you choose without             listened with newfound appreciation as our blind
     experiences Europe has to offer.                       anyone being the wiser. We giggled at people             escort gracefully guided dishes back to the
                                                            who dropped their utensils. We announced in              kitchen, then shuffled us out of the restaurant.
     Dans Le Noir is divided into three parts, a lit        overcompensatingly loud voices that we were              We stood in the dimly lit antechamber, letting our
     bar/lobby where overpriced cocktails are bought,       flicking each other off. We talked about the seedy       eyes slowly get used to the light once again.
     dinner orders are placed, and patrons catch a last     deeds that could be going on in the restaurant
     fleeting glimpse of their company before entry, a      that very moment. For a split second, the restau-
     lit lounge occasionally hosting a guest speaker        rant felt like a clandestine tree house only we
                                                                                                                      LOWDOWN
     and featuring all too metaphoric photos of people      knew the password for, that is, until food arrived.       Dans Le Noir is located at 51 Rue Quincampoix
     covering their eyes (so much for French subtlety),                                                               and can be reached online at www.danslenoir.fr
     and the 60-seater restaurant, the likes of which       Armed with little more than our fingertips, we            for more information. For reservations, call
     patrons never actually see. The menu also comes        shoveled empty forks into our mouths time after           011.33.1.42.77.98.04 at least three days before
     in one of two varieties, the visible Menu au Choix     time after time, we tried in vain to cut meat with        your visit.

     14   www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:11 PM   Page 15




                                                 The vibrancy of   AsiA.
                                              The romance of   Europe.
                                          The mystery of    LAtin AmericA.
                                           The history of   EGyPT, AfricA
                                               and the   Middle EAst.
                                                   Take your pick.
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:12 PM   Page 16




     16
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:12 PM   Page 17
*April05_5   4/7/05     6:12 PM   Page 18




        www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
*April05_5                                  4/7/05       6:12 PM      Page 19




                                   T
                                   “THEY KILLED THE BUDDHA!” JULIE                           The next morning, while I was oversleeping,                er reason: With the exception of a few overeager
                                   EXCLAIMED IN AMAZEMENT. Painted on the                    unidentified men threw grenades into the demon-            motorbike-taxi drivers, Cambodians are seriously
                                   temple wall above her was the scene of the                stration, killing 20 people and injuring more than         sweet people, so devoted to Buddhism that they
                                   Enlightened One’s death at the hands of his fol-          100. The opposition politician leading the demon-          refuse to work in slaughterhouses (local Cham
                                   lowers, who’d served him tainted meat for dinner.         stration, Sam Rainsy, accused the prime minister,          Muslims take those jobs). A tour guide will invite
                                   “But why did they feed him pork in the first place?”      Hun Sen, of being behind the attack. To this day,          you to dinner at his wooden house, where he lives
                                                                                             Hun Sen remains in power, the two suspects have            with something like 43 family members—is he a
                                   No answer was forthcoming, but really, none was           never been tried, and in February Sam Rainsy was           machete-wielding maniac? Could he kill the
                                   needed. We were ten tourists of a half-dozen              stripped of his parliamentary immunity and forced          Buddha? Could I?
                                   nationalities visiting the first of many, many            to flee the country. Cambodian politics, indeed.
                                   wats—traditional Cambodian Buddhist temples—                                                                               WAT’S FOR DINNER
                                   on a two-week guided trek from the capital,               This was, unfortunately, nothing new for the coun-
                                   Phnom Penh, to the Khmer spiritual heartland of           try. Almost eight years later, on this trip (courtesy of   Cambodians, however, aren’t the only ones who
                                   Siem Reap, and around and back again, with a              the generous folks at Intrepid Travel), I visited Toul     face death daily: The trees here are hungry, and
                                   handful of stops in between.                              Sleng, a former high school in Phnom Penh that             ancient temples are on the menu. Our second wat
                                                                                             from 1976 to 1979 the Khmer Rouge turned into a            stop was outside Kampong Thom, at a ninth-centu-
                                   This was to be a journey into centuries past, into        detention, torture, interrogation, and execution site      ry—pre-Angkorian is the official term, I believe—
                                   carved sandstone demons and arcane Theravada              for people they suspected—imagined is the better           complex of temples that, no longer in use, is sink-
                                   Buddhist rituals, in which we would confront the          term, or maybe pretended—were political criminals.         ing into the forest. The ancient pools used for royal
                                   historical, religious, and psychological origins of       The bare metal mattresses remain in the torture            baths are nothing more than leaf-lined pits in the
                                   the Khmer people, and perhaps come to, if not             chambers, as do the irons used to clamp prisoners’         earth, and the roofs of the brick temples collapsed
                                   understand, then at least begin to grasp the roots
                                   of the auto-genocidal fever that swept Cambodia
                                   in the mid-1970s, courtesy of the Khmer Rouge.

                                   But, more often than not, we found ourselves at
                                   places like Wat Nokor, outside Kampong Cham,
                                   whose thick, 12th-century sandstone walls sur-
                                   rounded a still-functioning temple adorned with
                                   bright pastel scenes of the Buddha’s life. The
                                   Buddha leaving home. The Buddha fasting. The
                                   Buddha beneath the shade of a naga, or snake
                                   spirit. The Buddha reaching enlightenment. The
                                   Buddha being served a meal of bacon, ham hocks,
                                   and chitlins, then dying.

                                   Of course, as we would learn over the fortnight,
                                   death—and its attendant suddenness and unpre-
                                   dictability—is perhaps the only constant in this
                                   country of 13 million, smack between Vietnam
                                   and Thailand in Southeast Asia. We would witness
                                   traffic accidents, hear Khmer Rouge horror stories,
                                   gaze upon skulls and mass graves on display at
                                   former killing fields, and examine bas relief fres-
                                                                                                                           CAMBODIANS ARE SERIOUSLY SWEET
                                   coes of ancient wars at Angkor Wat. And we—or
                                   maybe it was just me—would be left to ponder
                                   how any of the famously happy and relaxed
                                   Cambodians still manage to wake up at five in the
                                                                                                                   “
                                                                                                    PEOPLE, BUT, COULD MY TOUR GUIDE KILL THE

                                   morning and try to grow rice.

                                     WAT WAS I THINKING?
                                                                                                    BUDDHA? COULD I?

                                                                                             legs, as do hundreds of photographs of the con-
                                                                                             demned, from hardened cadres to confused peas-
                                                                                                                                                    ”   centuries ago. Spong trees wrap themselves around
                                                                                                                                                        the structures, digging their soft, wormlike roots
                                   This was not my first trip to Cambodia. In March          ants to smiling, gleeful children, unaware of their        into the stone and slowly wrenching it apart, year
 Photos: Matt Gross, Bonnie Yoon




                                   1997, when I was living in Ho Chi Minh City,              fates. In all, some 20,000 people were killed here;        by year, millimeter by millimeter.
                                   Vietnam, I popped into Phnom Penh to check out            just 7 survived, and those by sheer luck.
                                   the city’s first international film festival. The night                                                              This slow-motion demolition is, however, a beauti-
                                   I arrived, I spotted a flier at a bar announcing a        This mass killing perplexed me not so much for its         ful sight: Mother Nature locked in battle with the
                                   demonstration in favor of an independent judici-          scale—by some estimates, 2 million people died of          works of Man. As I walked around the temples,
                                   ary, planned for the next morning. A good intro-          starvation, disease, overwork, and murder during           trailed by a battalion of children selling kramas,
                                   duction to Cambodian politics, I thought.                 the Khmer Rouge’s four-year reign—but for anoth-           the tartan scarves worn by everyone in countryside

                                                                                                                                                                               www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com   19
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:12 PM     Page 20




          “      CAMBODIANS, HOWEVER, AREN’T THE ONLY ONES WHO FACE DEATH DAILY:
      THE TREES HERE ARE HUNGRY, AND ANCIENT TEMPLES ARE ON THE MENU.
                                                                                                                                                           ”
     Cambodia, I never knew whether to feel heartened     and Indians and Americans climbing its steep             maybe an elephant, too. In any case, presto!
     or dismayed by the implications. Nature really       sandstone steps and snapping pictures of the tee-        World is born!
     seems to be winning, and though Man’s putting        tering towers and sweating as they amble across
     up a good fight, it’s certain he will lose.          a vast network of wats that once served as the           This faith came via Indian traders around 86 B.C.,
                                                          empire’s capital city.                                   but Youssa didn’t have a good explanation for
     Perhaps that’s just karma at work. Cambodia’s                                                                 what Khmers believed before that, or why, once
     temples were erected over a period of several        Yet somehow, it all still feels lost, as if, like        they’d adopted Hinduism, it took them another
     hundred years by what was essentially slave          Mouhot, you’ve just stumbled upon one of the             700 years to start building monumental temples.
     labor: thousands, if not millions, of peasants       greatest buildings on Earth, and no one else             Still, Youssa’s words definitely made certain
     ordered by their god-kings to build monuments        knows. This is partly because the complex is just        aspects of Angkor Wat a little more comprehensi-
     to the Khmer Empire’s greatness. It was a classic    so alien. At least it was to this Westerner,             ble: like the statues of 100 gods and 100 demons
     case of the rich riding the poor to glory, and as    unschooled in Hinduism and Buddhism, which               churning the sea of milk with a big snake, or the
     history has demonstrated again and again, that       together form the ideological backbone of Angkor         lotus shape of Angkor Wat itself, which appears to
     only leads to eventual ruin. (Or maybe it’s just     Wat. Luckily, our Intrepid guide, “Three Eyes”           rise each morning from the lake in a real-life recre-
     that all reigns ultimately end.) The spong-          Youssa, schooled us:                                     ation of the creation myth.
     enshrouded temple I climbed up was once some
     despot’s triumph, which only begs the question:      In the beginning, there was nothing, but Lord            No words, however, were needed when Youssa led
     Whither the White House?                             Vishnu wanted a world, so he asked 100 gods and          us to the Bayon, whose 49 lofty, four-sided spires
                                                          100 devils to engage in a tug-of-war with a ser-         feature the smiling face of King Jayavarman VII,
                                                                                                                                                                           Photo: Courtesy of Intrepid Travel




     But these buildings remain centuries after they      pent from the bottom of the sea of milk. The ensu-       who commissioned much of the temple complex.
     were abandoned to the jungle by their creators, so   ing battle churned the milk so violently that the        Each side of each spire faces a cardinal direction
     perhaps it’s not all folly. Angkor Wat, the grand-   level of the liquid began to fall, revealing the land.   and features a different smile, which Youssa
     pappy of Cambodian wats, lay buried in trees and     sort of like a toilet flushing. Or maybe it was that     proudly demonstrated for us: the smile of compas-
     creepers for 500 years before Henri Mouhot, a        a gigantic turtle rose from the deep, bearing the        sion, of kindness, of equality, and of sympathy.
     French explorer, “discovered” it in 1863. Now it’s   earth on its back. Or maybe it was that a lotus          The trick, he told us, is in the eyes. Do they look
     visited by more than a million tourists a year,      flower rose from the deep and opened up to con-          down? Up? Straight across? Are the lids wide open
     Japanese and French and Koreans and Chinese          tain an aspara, a traditional Khmer dancer. And          or slightly lowered?

     20   www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
                                     *April05_5   4/7/05   6:12 PM   Page 21




                                                                                                                 the world
                                                                                                                 e.
                                                                                                          pe ctiv
                                                                                                                   ers
                                                                                                                               nt p
                                                                                    H
                                                                               TEA C ISH                              dif fere
                                                                               ENGL AD e
                                                                                                                                      ma
                                                                                                                                        ...fro
                                                                               ABROrtificat
                                                                                    eC
                                                                                TEFL am
                                                                                Progr                     g
                                                                                                  teachin
                                                                                          Grads
                                                                                                     ntries
                                                                                         in 3 5+ cou                  Midwest
                                                                                                                      Teacher
                                                                                                                      Training
                                                                               Madison, Wisconsin
                                                                                                                      Program
                                                                               Offered by WESLI          www.mttp.com         800/765-8577
Photo: Courtesy of Intrepid Travel
*April05_5     4/7/05      6:12 PM      Page 22




     ON BUSES AND BOATS THROUGHOUT THE TRIP, I KEPT BUSY BY WRITING A SONG ABOUT CAMBODIA. TRY TO IMAGINE A
     METH-ADDLED ARLO GUTHRIE ON BROADWAY, AND YOU’LL HAVE SOME IDEA HOW THIS IS SUPPOSED TO SOUND:

     “Whole Lotta Wat”                            And they got Pol Pot—                    You can fly Aeroflot                      And every little schoolgirl sports
                                                                                        Got a whole lotta wat                    a Nokia cell phone
         Well, I know this li’l country that        Well, the temples are enormous,        And they got Pol Pot                      Banteay Srey is cut from pink
     borders on Siam,                          the biggest one they call Angkor         Got a whole lotta wat                    sandstone
         Got a lot of li’l cities, like Siem        But it was sacked back in 1431,        And they got Pol Pot                      And expats in bikinis call
     Reap and Kampong Cham                     when the Thai king launched his war                                               Sihanoukville home
         They grow a little rice there,             Then the jungles took over, and         Now back in 1975, Cambodia               So eat your curried noodles and
     pound their fish into a paste             the empire was lost                      wasn’t doin’ well                        drink a Côtes du Rhone
         They eat it ev’ry day there: Want          Till the French hit the scene,          The Khmer Rouge, they took               And finish it off with an ice
     some? Have a taste!                       said, “We’re the new boss”               control, made the place a living hell    cream cone
         They got pepper, gems, and tim-            They dug up the trees and cut           In black pj’s and liar’s smiles,         But don’t forget your life on
     ber, checkered scarves and red            down the vines                           while the world held its breath          Earth is just a short-term loan
     snow, too                                      Imported their Peugeots, their          They laid land mines and                 And the dirt beneath your san-
         All their dancers are quite lim-      villas, their wines                      chopped off heads and worked             dals is mixed with blood and bone…
     ber, but that fish paste tastes like           But forced labor, however, and a    everyone to death
     poo—                                      lack of free will                            On one cupful of rice per day,           And Cam-bo-di-a has one
                                                    Sure pissed off the people, who     Cambodia slowly starved                  resource that never will run dry
         But Cam-bo-di-a has one               were ready to kill                           And Pol Pot’s cronies destroyed          And it ain’t land mines, it ain’t
     resource that never will run dry               Till crazy Prince Sihanouk bro-     their patrimony, and stole statues       fish paste, it ain’t spiders deep-fried—
         And it ain’t land mines, it ain’t     kered a deal                             that their ancestors carved
     prahok, it ain’t street kids who cry—          Got Paris to give up and say: “Do       Till one fine day, Vietnam came      [spoken] And whadda they got?
                                               whatever you feel”                       a-knocking,
     [spoken] Whadda they got?                                                              And chased Pol Pot till his knees    Got a whole lotta wat
     They— got— a— whole lotta wat             [spoken] Fifty years later, whadda       they were, uh… a-knocking                   And it sure is hot
        And it sure is hot.                    they got?                                [pause]                                  Got a whole lotta wat
     Got a whole lotta wat                     They— got— a— whole lotta wat                                                        And a history pretty fraught
        At the toilets you squat                  And it sure is hot                    [spoken] Well, then a whole lot more     Got a whole lotta wat
     Got a whole lotta wat                     Got a whole lotta wat                    crazy shit happened, but I’m, uh, sav-      And no Pol Pot
        People often get shot                     Tie your krama in a knot              ing that for another song. Yeah.         Got a whole lotta wat
     Got a whole lotta wat                     Got a whole lotta wat                                                                No more Pol Pot
        And they got Kampot                       Eat a pizza topped with pot           To—day—                                  Got a whole lotta wat
     Got a whole lotta wat                     Got a whole lotta wat                                                                And they got Kampot
        And they got Pol Pot                      And some naked tots                      The god-king beams down from          Got a whole lotta wat
     Got a whole lotta wat                     Got a whole lotta wat                    the spires of Bayon                         And it sure. Is. Hot.




                                                                                                                                                                            Photo: Matt Gross




     22   www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
*April05_5   4/7/05      6:13 PM      Page 23




     I had a question: Pol Pot, the architect of the Khmer Rouge atrocities, was       checked the schedule that Intrepid had given us, hoping for clues to emerge
     famous for his smile—which one was it?                                            from the runic Xerox: Why did the French disassemble Phnom Bakheng back
                                                                                       in the twenties? Or was that not Phnom Bakheng but another temple, maybe
     “Kindness,” Youssa said.                                                          the Baphuon? Why were there no bas-relief carvings of small children offer-
                                                                                       ing to sell the Khmer army “cold drink, cold drink”?
              WAT A DAY FOR A DAYDREAM
                                                                                       But then, somewhere toward the end of all this, sometime after we visited the
     Men being beheaded. Men being eaten by lions and crocodiles. Men being            Landmine Museum but before we decamped from Angkor Wat and headed
     stabbed, flayed, eaten. Armies having at each other with feral abandon.           south for the beach town of Sihanoukville, we wound up at Banteay Samré.
     Welcome to the ground floor of the Bayon, whose bas reliefs record the            I don’t know when it was built, or by whom, or whether it’s Hindu or purely
     many wars of the Khmer people in detail that would please any Fangoria            Buddhist. I do know, however, that it was almost entirely empty of people. No
     subscriber.                                                                       French package tourists, no Aussie sophomores. Only two or three children
                                                                                       with nothing to sell.
     Yet for all their horrors, the carvings are hypnotic, rewarding anyone with the
     slightest historical curiosity with dense sociological detail. The armies of      The temple was big and square, and was once filled with water, turning the
     many nations are represented by their facial features and garb: the long-         rooms and corridors into little stone islands. Now, however, it was simply an
     eared Khmers, the Chinese with their topknots, the beskirted Vietnamese           island of peace, a place to sit and forget the killings that have wracked this
     Chams. The frescoes show people cooking, eating, gambling, smoking, danc-         land for millenia. And sit I did, in a far-off corner of Banteay Samré, until the
     ing, sleeping, buying, selling, dying, living. You could pore over these images   sun began to set, the mosquitoes came out, and I heard our tour leader faint-
     for months, or years, trying to understand the subtle symbolism and piece         ly call out my name, wondering where I’d gone.
     together the narrative.
                                                                                        LOWDOWN
     Or you could give in, as many of us did, to wat fatigue. Three days at Angkor,
                                                                                         INTREPID TRAVEL's "Heart of Cambodia" trip leaves from Phnom Penh
     three days in the 90-degree heat, three days of immersion in a culture that
                                                                                         and covers the country in 15 days.
     might as well have been Martian—three straight days of Angkor Wat, and we
     were tired. Exhausted. Confused by the place names and ancient eras and             COSTS run US$870 (plus a local payment of US$200).
     the bizarre mashup of religions. Was Banteay Srei pre-Angkor, or post-? Did
     we just visit the terrace of the leper king, or the terrace of elephants? We        Intrepidtravel.com




                                                                                                                                           www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com   23
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:13 PM   Page 24
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:13 PM   Page 25




             LOOKING FOR
             Writers
         Illustrators
         Photographers




         jeff@studenttraveler.com




             YOU’LL FIT RIGHT IN! OPEN ENROLLMENT!

                      Travel and Study! Have the educational experience of a lifetime.
                  UC Berkeley offers a diverse assortment of programs in exciting places.
                                 Travel study at its best is available through
                      UC Berkeley Summer Travel Study Programs. ENROLL NOW!

                           To learn more, go to the International Programs Office,
              2481 Hearst Avenue. Call 510-643-3364 or email gostudy@summer.berkeley.edu


         Barbados * Barcelona * Berlin * Brazil * Cambodia
          * China * Florence * Laos * London * Mexico *
         Myanmar * The Netherlands and Belgium * Paris *
                  Switzerland * Taipei * Thailand
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:13 PM      Page 26




      YOU TALKIN’ TO ME?                   ITALY ARE THE CLEVER WAY TO GET
         CONVERSATIONAL ENGLISH LESSONS IN
                                         ON TRAVEL. by JESSICA N. JOHNSON
       CASH, AND TIME TO BLOW THAT STASH

     Cristina was one of my favorite English students.      paying student and friend can be easily blurred.
     We were about the same age. She had a great            The economics of teaching English in Italy aren’t             THE BENEFIT OF ENGLISH THEFT
     sense of style. She was always showing up for          only the Euro exchange rate; it’s how you balance       The second option is to contract with one of the
     class in some combination of motorcycle boots, a       friendships, schedules, payment, travel, and a          half dozen English instruction centers operating
     crochet sweater, chandelier earrings, and a funky      wineglass and textbook at the same time.                throughout Padova. These franchises, which
     scarf that on her looked fabulous, but on me, like                                                             include Wall Street, CEPU, and the Oxford School
     the floor of my closet threw up. Unlike most              LIVE TO TEACH OR TEACH TO LIVE?                      of English, have sprouted up all across Italy and
     Italian women, she left her hometown, and moved        The easiest job to snag when traveling or living        Europe. They provide private conversation classes
     to Padova to pursue a career in publishing. We         abroad is teaching English. While actual certified,     for executives and professionals seeking to
     were both relatively new to town, far from friends     experienced teachers will cringe at this notion, in     improve their ability to speak English. The major
     and family, and during our hour-long conversation      many places around the globe we are qualified sim-      benefit of working for these schools is that you
     classes, we bonded over the people and places we       ply by virtue of being native English speakers, given   don’t have to do any marketing or lesson prepara-
     missed from our respective homes.                      how great the demand is. Present day Italy is no        tion. You set your schedule with them, show up,
                                                            exception. The Italian economy is in a precarious       students will be waiting (and if they cancel, you
     We always met on Thursday afternoons during her        position right now as they too watch their manufac-     still get paid), and lead students through an
     afternoon pausa. One day, we decided to meet an        turing jobs scamper away to Romania, and China.         already set curriculum.
     hour earlier, have lunch together first outside the    Further compounding the situation is a drying up
     office, and then return for class. On my bike, on      of research funding at the university level, precipi-   They’re also a great place to get your feet wet. I
     my way to meet her, I practiced in my head how I       tating a considerable brain drain of the country’s      taught English as a Second Language (ESL) before,
     would politely refuse if she offered to pay for my     top scientists, engineers, and researchers, all look-   but it’s not like I spend my free time endlessly
     sandwich, how I would tell her that we were meet-      ing for positions overseas, and all looking to          ruminating on the difference between the past
     ing as friends and therefore we should split the       improve their English speaking abilities.               perfect and present continuous tenses. Working for
     cost of lunch. It wasn’t an issue. We ordered at the                                                           a language center enabled me to raid their mate-
     bar, paid for our respective sandwiches and spritz,    It’s difficult to get started. Initially, one has to    rials and relearn how to distinguish between
     and then found a table. We always spoke in             decide where to teach, and in Padova, like in           countable and uncountable nouns (strawberries,
     Italian, when not actively engaged in an English       many mid-sized Italian cities, there are three basic    eggs vs. bread, pasta, for the uninitiated).
     lesson, and I continued chatting away in my, clum-     options: international schools, instruction centers,
     sy but nonetheless can-get-my-point-across Italian     and going solo. Padova is home to two private           The principal drawback is that you earn between
     as we sat down.                                        English instruction primary schools, Villa Grimani      €12-14 per hour, which is then taxed at 20%, so
                                                            and the English International School of Padova.         your take home is approximately €9-10. Also,
     She turned to me and said, “You speak Italian,         Both schools serve children ages 2-10, and the          these schools need to ask for official working
     and I speak English for practicing.”                   International School also includes a middle and         papers, “in teoria” anyway. When I worked at one
                                                            high school.                                            of the Oxford schools in town, they never asked
     I felt a subtle shift of mood. It may sound selfish,
     but I didn’t want to spend the next hour listening     On the plus side, these schools will take care of
     to her piece together the words she needed to          securing working papers, including the all-impor-
                                                                                                                      LOWDOWN
     form a rudimentary sentence. I didn’t want to cor-     tant codice fiscale and permesso di soggiorno (fis-       MONTHLY BREAKDOWN OF COSTS
     rect her mistakes, and modify my speaking, using       cal code and work permit), essential for working
     simple words and tenses to make sure she under-        legally in Italy. They also help find housing for         RENT: €350-450
     stood. I wanted to have an actual conversation,        new teachers. The money is decent, approximate-
                                                                                                                      UTILITIES: €50-70 (sometime separate, some-
     gossip, relax, and then start teaching. I didn’t       ly €1,195 a month, certainly enough to live on in
                                                                                                                      times included in rent)
     want a watery two hour session that was neither        a modest fashion, with enough left over for week-
     totally one, hanging out, nor the other, working.      end excursions, eating out, and some occasional           DSL: €35-65
                                                            retail therapy. While certainly helpful, it is not
     Teaching English in Italy can be an ideal way to       necessary to know Italian.                                CELL PHONE (required Italian accessory): €50
     earn enough money to live on—and by live on, I
     mean rent an apartment, eat, and buy shoes, and        But it’s a real job! Who moves to Italy to arrive at      GREAT FOOD & FINE WINES: €150-200
     at the same time, maintain enough flexibility to       8 am every morning? As with most real jobs, it
     travel and partake in Italy’s endless artistic, epi-   means you have to actually show up five days a            LIVING LA DOLCE VITA (or, sweet life, for you
     curean, and recreational diversions. Even so, it       week, severely cutting into travel time. Remember,        English learners) IN ITALY: PRICELESS (shame-
                                                                                                                      less appropriation of corporate slogan, but true)
     takes patience to get started, and the line between    working can really get in the way of not working.

     26   www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:13 PM      Page 27




                                                                               PRIVATE
                                                                  ENGLISH LESSONS
                                                                     AND CONVERSATION




                                                     We are American born, native English speakers, with
                                                  teaching experience. If you are looking to improve or mas-
                                                  ter English we can help! Give us a call to schedule a lesson.

                                                      Madrelingua Inglese/Americano, Insegnanti esperti.
                                                       Lezioni per tutti i livelli. Preparazione TOEFL,
                                                                  traduzioni, conversazioni.
                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------



                           ----------------------------
                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons



                             English Lessons
                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:



                             Ask for Jessica:
                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555



                             347-555-5555
     me for working papers, which was helpful, since I      table. Each student is operating at a different        doctors have to learn English to present papers at
     didn’t have any, and they paid me in cash each         level, and I plan each lesson accordingly. I use the   international conferences. I recommend putting
     week. A friend of mine works for a local multicul-     Headway textbooks, which are available at              some effort into your sign. Most signs are plain,
     tural language school and they did ask him for his     Feltrinelli, the local international bookstore, with   simply listing basic contact information. I decided
     codice fiscale. He also didn’t have one. They          my beginner and intermediate students. With my         to play up that I was offering American English,
     decided they needed a teacher more than they           advanced students, I gauge their interests during      and by using clipart featuring Americana such as
     needed to obey the law of the land.                    the first class, and then select a newspaper or        Marilyn, Elvis, a baseball player, the Hollywood
                                                            magazine article, which I think they will like. I      sign, and the Statue of Liberty, I created a simple
     These schools also provide a convenient introduc-      build our hour-long class around reading the arti-     but eye catching flyer to hang up around town.
     tion to future private students. The furbo, or more    cle, which enables them to practice their pronun-      Also the longer you stay in one place, the more
     clever, students are there to audition private         ciation, discussion, and a short writing assign-       students will find you. After establishing an easy-
     instructors, who they can then hire for private        ment on a theme related to the day’s topic.            going rapport with my local fruttivendolo, she
     classes. By removing the middleman, students pay                                                              asked me to come by once a week to tutor her
     half what the schools demand, and teachers can         Beginner students are more difficult to work with,     daughter who is preparing for her college
     double their salary. As there is a revolving door of   and here I feel that it is essential to have both      entrance exams.
     both students and teachers, I didn’t feel too guilty   knowledge of their native language and the
     when I departed with a handful of students in tow.     mechanics of teaching ESL. Otherwise, you’re           AND THE STUDENT BECOMES THE MASTER
                                                            doing them a disservice, and they will pick up on      Going from the security of a 9-5 job to the struc-
          GOING INTO PRIVATE PRACTICE                       it fairly quickly and move on. Many universities       tured schedule provided by the English learning
     Which brings us to what I believe is the optimal       offer introductory Teaching English as a Foreign       centers to freelance freedom can be a risky
     option; building a steady stream of private stu-       Language (TEFL) courses. Check out the course          endeavor, but the payoffs are well worth it. I now
     dents. The going rate is €18.50 an hour, tax free,     offerings at TEFLInternational.com, TEFL.com, and      have the extra cash and flexibility to afford to live
     students typically come to you, talk for an hour,      TEFLworldwideprague.com. There are hundreds of         (rent, food, shoes) and travel. It also doesn’t take
     pay, and leave. You can schedule classes Tuesday       on-line courses and location-specific courses          long for students to meld into actual friends, lead-
     through Thursday, leaving four glorious responsi-      offered everywhere from Rome to Bali that offer        ing to invitations to grab a beer and watch a foot-
     bility-free days for travel and exploring, thereby     TEFL certification for $295 to $1,500.                 ball match at the local pub, after hours so to
     ensuring the best of both worlds, making enough                                                               speak., Also, in exchange for mastering the intrica-
     to support yourself, but working just enough so        Private lessons require patience. Students do not      cies associated with phrasal verbs and the infini-
     that it doesn’t actually feel like work.               materialize overnight. You need to make signs,         tive of purpose, my students enthusiastically
                                                            post them in the international bookstore, cafes,       teach me how to appreciate the rhythms of life in
     I set up shop in my miniscule one-bedroom apart-       and local shops. The bulletin boards at the local      the Veneto. That’s a lesson you can’t get for only
     ment, and we sit around my cleared off kitchen         hospital are another good bet since all Italian        18.50 euro an hour!


                                                                                                                                          www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com   27
*April05_5    4/7/05       6:13 PM        Page 28




             TEACHING ABROAD DIRECTORY
                                                                    teaching programs                                           TEFL Certificate Course with practice teaching.
        Alliance Abroad offers a range of teach, work, study
                                                                    in Peru, Mexico, China, India, Cook Islands, Romania,       EFL Career Workshops, job placement assistance,
        and volunteer abroad programs. Work in a British pub,
                                                                    Italy, Poland, Hungary, Tanzania and Ghana. Volunteers      personalized resume editing. Graduates have
        teach English in Spain or China, volunteer in a Costa
                                                                    pay tax-deductible program fees (from $1,350 to             found positions in over 40 countries! Offered by
        Rican national forest and more! For details go to
                                                                    $2,595). Student and internet-user discounts. For           an accredited ESL institution. Call (800)765-8577
        www.allianceabroad.com or call 866-6ABROAD
                                                                    details call 800-487-1074 or go to www.globalvolun-         or visit www.mttp.com
        CIEE. Recent graduates make wonderful teachers of           teers.org
                                                                                                                                Oxford House. Learn to teach English. Four week
        English (and culture). Share in the daily life of young
                                                                    i-to-i, the UK’s largest teaching of English as a foreign   TEFL courses in Prague, Barcelona and Madrid for
        Chinese people and gain insights into thisdynamic
                                                                    language training organization, offers high quality,        $1250. Excellent job prospects worldwide, inter-
        society. Receive a local salary and free furnished
                                                                    interactive training designed for travelers and those       nationally recognized. Trinity College TESOL
        accommodations. Teach in English and learn from your
                                                                    without the time, inclination or finances to take a full-   Certificate. For details go to www.oxfordtefl.com
        students. For details go to www.ciee.org/teach or call
                                                                    time course. The i-to-i TEFL certificate is a passport to   or call (866) 804-1873.
        (800) 407-8839
                                                                    working around the world, whether it’s for cash or on
                                                                    one of i-to-i’s own established placements. A free trial    The Peace Corps seeks U.S. citizens over 18 and in
        Throughout the world thousands of children lack the
                                                                    is available at www.i-to-i.com or call (800) 985.4864       good health as volunteers in overseas communi-
        basic necessities of education: books, pencils, desks
                                                                                                                                ties in the areas of education, small business
        and teachers. Through Global Routes, students 17
                                                                    The JET program is a teaching exchange between the          development, the environment, health, youth
        years of age and older are eligible to participate in our
                                                                    U.S. and Japan, offering selected applicants one year       development, and agriculture. For details call
        unique teaching internship programs, offered in the
                                                                    teaching opportunities throughout the country. A mini-      (800) 424-8580 or go to www.peacecorps.gov
        summer, fall and winter semesters in Africa, Asia, the
        Caribbean and Latin America. For details call               mum one year commitment is required. For details go to
                                                                    www.jetprogramme.org or email jet@la-cgjapan.org            St. Giles International is a training center for
        (413)585-8895 or go to www.globalroutes.org
                                                                                                                                teachers, offering a four week course that leads to
                                                                    The LADO TEFL Certificate Program. Washington D.C.          the Cambridge/CELTA. Courses run every month
        Global TESOL. Freedom to travel the world. Become
                                                                    offers four-week intensive, 10-week night/Saturday          and are externally moderated. For details call
        TESOL certified in 5 days. Government certified institu-
                                                                    classes. Highly successful placement services. Year-        (415) 788-3552, email info@stgiles-usa.com or go
        tion. Free job assistance. Job guaranteed. Fourteen
                                                                    round courses. Recognized by the American Council on        to www.stgiles-usa.com
        courses for new and experienced teachers. For details
        call (888) 270-2941 or go to www.globaltesol.com            Education.         For          details        email
                                                                    teachertraining@ladoent.com or go to www.lado.com           TEFL International - Experience life overseas,
                                                                                                                                either as a student or through work. Our unique
        Global Volunteers offers one- to three-week English-
                                                                    Midwest Teacher Training Program. Five-week, 130-hour       program allows you to train to be an English
                                                                                                                                teacher and then live in another culture, not along
                                                                                                                                the tourist trail. Volunteer and paid positions
                                                                                                                                available. For details go to www.teflinternation-
                                                                                                                                al.com

                                                                                                                                Teach and travel the world. Become certified to
                                                                                                                                teach English abroad. 4-week internationally rec-
                                                                                                                                ognized TEFL certificate course in Prague. Job
                                                                                                                                placement assistance worldwide. Experience
                                                                                                                                another culture, language, job… another world.
                                                                                                                                TEFL Worldwide. For details email info@teflworld-
                                                                                                                                wideprague.com or go to www.teflworldwide-
                                                                                                                                prague.com.

                                                                                                                                CTESOL training courses at Transworld Schools in
                                                                                                                                San Francisco, approved and accredited.
                                                                                                                                Internationally recognized. Recognized English
                                                                                                                                teaching certificate with job placement worldwide
                                                                                                                                including W. Europe. For details call (888)588-
                                                                                                                                8335 or go to www.transworldschools.com

                                                                                                                                Via Lingua is a “gateway to a wider world”. Teach
                                                                                                                                abroad opportunities in Prague, Guadalajara,
                                                                                                                                Florence, Barcelona, Berlin, Crete, Istanbul,
                                                                                                                                Budapest, Rome and St. Petersburg. Earn a good
                                                                                                                                income and gain rewarding, professional experi-
                                                                                                                                ence as you go. For details go to
                                                                                                                                www.vialingua.org or email info@vialingua.org

                                                                                                                                World Teach sends volunteers overseas to teach
                                                                                                                                from eight weeks to a year in Africa, Poland, Asia
                                                                                                                                and Latin America. BA degree required for long
                                                                                                                                term programs, summer programs open to under-
                                                                                                                                graduates. For details email info@worldteach.org
                                                                                                                                or go to www.worldteach.org
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:13 PM   Page 29
*April05_5     4/7/05     6:13 PM       Page 30




      [SCOOP]               PUT YOUR FEST FOOT FORWARD                                                            by MATT GOULDING & JEFF BOOTH
                                          T MEANS ONE THING:
     SUMMER IS COMING, AND IN EUROPE THA
                                                EBRATING, BE IT WORLD MUSIC
     IT’S TIME TO CELEBRATE WHATEVER’S WORTH CEL
                                        R TOP PICKS FOR THE BEST OF THE FESTS.
     OR FOOD FIGHTS. HERE ARE FOUR OF OU




     SAN FERMÍN AND THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS                               SPAIN
     Eighty years after Hemingway immortalized the weeklong celebration of Pamplona’s patron
     saint in The Sun Also Rises, the stampede of enraged 1,300-pound bulls still occupies an exalt-
     ed spot on the risk-lists of adrenaline junkies the world over. Each July, the northern Spanish town
     swells to twice its size with foreigners and paisanos seeking days filled with bullfights, flamenco
     dancing, fireworks, and three of the most heart-wrenching minutes of their lives: the release of
     the bulls and the ensuing chase through the streets. Come to Pamplona, and sleep on the hill
     behind the sangria vendor if you must, but when Mother Nature throws the light switch on,
     exposing isolated scenes of drunken depravity throughout the city, it’s time to lace up the shoes
     or take cover behind the gates.

     ST TIP: Right after the daddy bulls have run, take a seat in the Plaza de Toros to watch a ring
     full of momentary matadors get abused by their spirited offspring. WHEN: July 6 to 14.
     WHERE: Pamplona, Spain. HOW MUCH: Free. MORE INFO: sanfermin.com.
                                                                                                                  HUNGARY
                                                                                                            SZIGET FESTIVAL
                                                                                                            Geneva may have the United Nations, but Budapest
                                                                                                            has the united nations of music: Sziget, the largest
                                                                                                            music festival in Europe. Every summer for 13 years,




                                                                                                                                                                     Photos: Art Gimbel, Jeff Booth, David Wootton, Courtesy of Edinburgh Festival Fringe
                                                                                                            dozens of acts from all over the world—from headlin-
                                                                                                            ers like Franz Ferdinand to Malian funk, Norwegian
                                                                                                            hardcore, French trance, Yiddish hip-hop, and even
                                                                                                            American ska—converge on Òbuda Island, in the
                                                                                                            middle of the Danube, to kick out the jams. Despite
                                                                                                            the hundreds of thousands of music fans, Sziget still
                                                                                                            retains a laidback atmosphere that’s inimical to sell-
                                                                                                            outs. And don’t worry about any language barriers
                                                                                                            with most of the world jamming together—the beats
                                                                                                            are international.

                                                                                                            ST TIP: Camping is free on the island for everyone,
                                                                                                            but show up on the 9th to make sure you stake out
                                                                                                            a space far from the main tent – or you’ll never get
                                                                                                            any sleep. WHEN: August 10 to 17, 2005.
                                                                                                            WHERE: Budapest, Hungary. HOW MUCH:
                                                                                                            Weeklong tickets, which include camping permits,
                                                                                                            are only €100. One-day tickets are about €15.
                                                                                                            MORE INFO: sziget.hu.
     30
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:13 PM      Page 31




                                                                                                    LA TOMATINA  SPAIN
                                                                                                    Myriad explanations exist for the origin
                                                                                                    of this massive tomato battle: a peace-


                                              SCOTLAND
                                                                                                    ful parade gone amok, an impulsive
     EDINBURGH FRINGE FESTIVAL                                                                      response to a novice horn player, an
                                                                                                    old woman’s reaction to the rising price
     This eclectic offshoot of the annual Edinburgh International Festival began in 1947 when       of produce. No one seems to care any-
     a group of acting companies, snubbed by the “high-art” event, sought out a less-preten-        more—the important thing is that every
     tious alternative to display their talents. Augusts in the Scottish capital are now dominat-   year on the last Wednesday of August,
     ed by the Fringe and the thousands who flock to the world’s largest performing-arts fes-       Buñol, a sleepy Spanish village of
     tival.                                                                                         9,000, plays host to the world’s largest
                                                                                                    food fight.
     More than 1,500 daily shows offer spectators a chance to take in a healthy balance of
     Shakespeare, stand-up comedy, and Tibetan yak-milk gargling. Venues range from classy          It begins like any good Spanish street
     show halls to back-alley pubs thick with the smell of malt whiskey and deep-fried Mars         party should: with a giant leg of cured
     bars, a truly egalitarian event for the culturally deprived.                                   ham dangling from a greased pole. Once
                                                                                                    the pole is scaled and the porcine treat
     ST TIP: Pick up the daily Scotsman for reliable reviews, and keep an eye out for two-for-      removed, the officials relinquish
     one specials. WHEN: August 7 to 29, 2005 (begins the first Sunday of every August).            125,000 kilos of tomatoes to the raven-
     WHERE: Edinburgh, Scotland. HOW MUCH: Tickets from £5. MORE INFO: edfringe.com.                ous crowd. What follows is a war of apoc-
                                                                                                    alyptic dimensions: a solid hour of toma-
                                                                                                    to-hucking in which no one is safe from
                                                                                                    the pulpy projectiles. In the dwindling
                                                                                                    moments of the fight, the battleground
                                                                                                    looks like an orgy sponsored by Prego.

                                                                                                    ST TIP: Book Valencia accommoda-
                                                                                                    tions early [HOW EARLY?], and bring
                                                                                                    a change of clothes. WHEN: August
                                                                                                    29, 2005. WHERE: Buñol, Spain, a
                                                                                                    30-minute bus ride from Valencia.
                                                                                                    HOW MUCH: Free. MORE INFO:
                                                                                                    lahoya.net/tomatina.


                                                                                                     PLANNING ON BEING IN EUROPE
                                                                                                     FOR THE SUMMER but can’t make
                                                                                                     it to any of these events? No worries.
                                                                                                     Check out whatsonwhen.com for a
                                                                                                     detailed list of summer festivals
                                                                                                     across Europe.


                                                                                                               www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com   31
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:14 PM   Page 32
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:14 PM   Page 33
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:14 PM      Page 34




     [PLAY]            BATTING IN THE BALTIC                                                                                                    by ANGUS J. J. BELL
                                                          NIA
                      A SCOTSMAN PLAYS ICE CRICKET IN ESTO




                    LL THE SPORTS IN THE WORLD—



     A              FOOTBALL, BASEBALL, BASKET-
                    BALL, ARCHERY—share one univer-
                    sal, unbreakable rule: Nudity will
                    always attract the loudest cheers.
     Even in Estonia, even in sub-zero conditions, and
     even when the game is cricket. In fact, in Estonian
                                                            in a world-record-breaking 128 countries, eventu-
                                                            ally coming to a stop in Estonia when he was
                                                            offered a bank job. During his trip, he was forced
                                                            to mortgage his house, and was arrested at
                                                                                                                    At 12 in the vast Jeti Hall, we began play against
                                                                                                                    Estonia’s first entry (we’d already lost one game
                                                                                                                    to an English pub side). We were a mixed bag of
                                                                                                                    Antipodean and British strangers, drawn togeth-
     ice cricket, streaking is mandatory.                   Moscow airport for breaking a window and set-           er by a common love of international cricket. Our
                                                            ting off the sprinkler system. (He’d been teaching      lineup included two London money-laundering
     Estonia has been playing cricket since 1998, when      cricket to Georgian refugees near the toilets.)         analysts, a Sydney D.J., a South African Muslim,
     an Indian restaurant owner and an Estonian back        When I spoke to him before the tournament, he           a New Zealand electrician, and myself, the kilted
     from holidaying in Australia formed a club on a        didn’t seem concerned about his side’s ranking. In      Scotsman. Giant concrete walkways and rusting
     horse track in Tallinn. Today, they run two grounds    fact, they’re the team that loves to lose. “We’re       girders criss-crossed over the ice pitch, while
     (one of which has three trees in the middle), and      happy being the worst international team in the         Donna Summer blasted from the stereo. Behind
     the team includes players from Zimbabwe, South         world,” he said. “It’s a great marketing tool. When     the plastic barrier, waiting teams swigged French
     Africa, Australia, the UK, Finland, and the            we’ve won, it’s been embarrassing. We just want         cognac and Russian sparkling white wine,
     Netherlands as well as six native Estonians.           to give touring sides a good run, let them win, and     preparing to take to the sauna.

                                                                                                                                                                         Photos: Lonely Planet Images\TKTKTK , Angus J.J. Bell, Andy Barr
                                                            hope they enjoy it enough to come back.”
     At the end of January, I traveled to medieval                                                                  Being short and bearded, with little Courvoisier
     Tallinn—a UNESCO World Heritage site, the booze        Slavophile Julian Tall, 33, was one of the archi-       coursing through their veins, the Balts seemed at
     cruise, casino, and stag capital of the Baltics, and   tects of this tournament. He runs Baltic                a considerable advantage in the field. They wore
     the actual capital of Estonia—for the world’s first    Adventures, a London-based travel company on            white and came prepared with spikes. For us gig-
     international six-a-side cricket tournament on ice.    whose team I was playing, that specializes in           gling batsmen, it was like running on oiled glass,
     Four teams from the UK flew in by budget carrier       unusual activities, like rally karting in the snow      and it was not long before our opening pair col-
     to do battle against the locals (the Estonians split   and Kalashnikov practice. On the eve of the             lided with the wickets, the wicketkeeper, and the
     their side in two). No one, however, had any clue      games, he told me, “The matches will be held on         umpire. Which, in case you’re not familiar with
     how to play on ice.                                    an ice rink in a former Soviet missile factory, which   the rules of cricket, is bad. Each wobble and
                                                            you’d have been shot for prowling round fifteen         Home Alone–esque flip throughout our innings
     Estonia’s captain is Jason Barry, a half-English,      years ago. The pitch has been marked and we’ve          prompted ooohs! from bemused, gold-toothed
     half-French marketing whiz. His brother is a yeti      had hockey players scuff the outfield to give bet-      Russian onlookers, keen to check out a new sport.
     hunter in the Himalayas. After watching                ter grip. Play is always ongoing, and we’ve got         Holding back the manly tears, we fought our way
     Groundhog Day, he set off in 1996 to play cricket      bicycle helmets for anybody who wants.”                 to a commanding innings total of 93.

     34   www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
*April05_5    4/7/05      6:14 PM      Page 35




      “ OPENING THE BOWLING IN SCARF,
   GLOVES, KILT, AND SPORRAN WAS NO EASY
   TASK. THE BALL WAS PLASTIC AND WRAPPED IN
   DUCT TAPE, AND THE BATSMAN WAS WEARING
   ONE LEG GUARD AND A WOOLLY HAT.
                                                                            ”
     There was no chance of us making the final, but as we jogged back onto the
     pitch for the second half of our Estonian clash, there was a fierce determina-
     tion in our team.

     Opening the bowling in scarf, gloves, kilt, and sporran was no easy task. The       LOWDOWN
     ball was plastic and wrapped in duct tape, and the batsman was wearing one
                                                                                         FANCY PLAYING CRICKET AGAINST ESTONIA, OR DOING SOMETHING
     leg guard and a woolly hat. The Baltic openers came out fighting. They
                                                                                         UNUSUAL IN THE BALTICS? Visit www.balticadventures.co.uk.
     thrashed our bowling and ran like a team that had, well, practiced. We hurled
     ourselves across the surface to save runs. By the end of the day, I would have
                                                                                         FOR A THOROUGH EXPLANATION OF THIS GREAT GAME, CHECK OUT:
     had three kneecaps on each leg, but the temperature kept the swelling down.
                                                                                         www.cs.purdue.edu/homes/hosking/cricket/explanation.htm.

     The Estonians were like a good English village Sunday team. As their innings
                                                                                         TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ESTONIAN CRICKET, SEE www.cricket.ee
     progressed, our lack of pace and knack for getting balls to roll along the
     ground caused them problems. Finally, they succumbed. Having bowled them
                                                                                         OR TO FIND OUT ABOUT CRICKET IN THE US, try usaca.org.
     out for 70, us Baltic Adventurers proved that we could compete on an inter-
     national level.

     Estonia’s second entry had more success in Group 2. They won a game, which        recruit. “Send over the Scottish team to play on this surface and we’ll make
     surprised them most of all. Estonia’s chairman, biologist Kristjan Kogerman,      them mincemeat, or haggis.”
     took more wickets than his total for the last five years, but it was not enough
     to put a home team in the final. Luckily, this meant they had a great vantage     It can be a lonely place at the bottom of the cricket table. Archrivals Latvia
     point from which to watch a New Zealander, clad only in trainers, dash across     (41st, just behind Mozambique) turned down the opportunity to play on ice—
     the pitch during the finals.                                                      the concept was too obscure for their puritan cricketing ideals. This summer
                                                                                       the Netherlands (14th) will be challenging the Estonians outdoors. “What’s
     Estonia’s cricketers hope the success of their inaugural ice sixes will attract   the plan?” I asked captain Jason Barry.
     more teams who sorely miss playing during the long winter months. A second
     tournament was held in March, again in the missile factory; the Kelletino         “We’ll take them out drinking till seven, then play will start promptly at
     Warriors, from St. Albans, beat out a side from Cambridge University to take      eleven,” he said. “I’ll toss with a small coin, which their captain won’t see…
     the silver trophy. Now there are even talks of an ice World Cup. “Australia has   and we’ll still lose.” A win against the Dutch would propel Estonia up the
     fast, bouncy pitches. We have ice,” said Chris Lautre, Estonia’s Zimbabwean       rankings, and save them from touring Sierra Leone.

                                                                                                                                         www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com   35
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:14 PM   Page 36




     36
*April05_5     4/7/05       6:14 PM       Page 37




        GLOBAL                               PAID INTERN -
                                                                        YMCA GUEST ROOMS...
                                             SHIPS in Italy,       Save on the room. Spend on the Town.
     Spain, France, Costa Rica, Thailand, China, South Korea,
     Vietnam, Egypt and more! Email info@international-
     experience.org for more information on OIIE’s paid
     internships!

                  TEFL International. Earn while you travel!
                  Internationally recognised English teach-
                  ing certificate offered in Thailand, Italy,
                  Spain and China. Guaranteed jobs world-
     wide. Affiliated with various universities. For more
     details www.teflintl.com or admin@teflintl.com.

                                       Adventure Center is
                                       your source for grass-
                                       roots style travel expe-               West Side YMCA                                                Vanderbilt YMCA
     riences at very affordable prices. Select from over 700         5 West 63rd St. New York, NY 10023                           224 East 47th St. New York, NY 10017
     adventure trips to more than 100 countries. To start
     planning your next adventure, go to www.adventure-
     center.com or call (800) 227-8747.                             For Reservations, please call                                   ▼ Affordable Rates
                                                                                                                                    ▼ Fabulous Locations
                 i-to-i. For 10 years i-to-i has been providing
                 effective TEFL certification classes offered      (917) 441-8800                                                   ▼ Clean, Comfortable Rooms
                 online or as a weekend course. Our
                 course is designed with the traveler in                     or visit us on line at                                 ▼ Swimming Pools, Gym and
                 mind. It is perfect for those who want to                                                                            other Fitness Facilities
     travel in Europe and developing countries, and earn          www.ymcanyc.org                                                   ▼ International Cafe/Restaurant
     money teaching. For details go to www.i-to-i.com or
     www.onlinetefl.com                                            The YMCA of Greater New York is a community service
                                                                   organization which promotes positive values through programs
                                                                                                                                    ▼ Concierge Services
                                                                   that build sprit, mind and body.
                                     Bridge-Linguatec.
                                     Travel abroad with a
                                     purpose.    Volunteer,
     Teach English, Learn Spanish or Portuguese! We offer
     intensive and exciting programs in language training,        Neill-Wycik (nel-wi sik)
     volunteering, and teacher-training in Latin America &
     Spain.     Please     visit     our     website     at       1. A student residence that becomes a “hostel-style” hotel
     www.bridgelinguatec.com
                                                                  from May to August each year. 2. Affordable accommo-
     Next Level Language. Teach English Abroad! Train with        dation in the heart of downtown Toronto. 3. A Clean and
     Next Level TEFL Prague. Become certified to teach
     English worldwide with our 4-week Next Level TEFL cer-       safe environment for groups and individual travelers
     tification course in Prague, Czech Republic. Lifetime job
     assistance. Employer contacts worldwide. Scholarship         from around the world.
     available. www.nextlevellanguage.com info@nextlevel-
     language.com
                                                                  ex. “My friends and I stayed at Neill-Wycik last summer
                   Instituto Chac-Mool in Cuernavaca,
                   Mexico guarantees you will learn               and we loved it!”
                   Spanish quickly. Spanish language
                   immersion, cultural program, and
     homestays with local families. Classes begin each
     Monday, students       study from 1-26 weeks.
                                                                                                                        Origin: 96 Gerrard Street East
     1.888.397.8363, spanish@chac-mool.com or www.chac-                                                                 Toronto, Ontario, Canada
     mool.com
                                                                                                                        M5B 1G7
                     Study in Europe, Asia or Latin America.
                     Low cost. Flexible. Earn college credit.                                                           (416) 977-2320
                     Open to all adults from all countries. For
                     details contact Center for Study Abroad.                                                           1-800-268-4358
     325 Washington Ave S #93. Kent, WA 98032 (USA).
     For details call (206) 726-1498, email info@center-                                                                Fax:(416)977-2809
     forstudyabroad.com or go to www.center-
     forstudyabroad.com                                                                                                 reservations@neill-wycik.com
                       Oasis Overland’s adventure expedi-                                                               www.neill-wycik.com
                       tions throughout Africa and South
                       America are designed for travellers
                       seeking a holiday experience which is
     a bit different and sometimes unpredictable, for free-                                                                                        www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com   37
     spirited adventurers who enjoy travelling through areas
     where things don’t always go according to plan!
*April05_5            4/7/05      6:14 PM   Page 38




    [OUR3CENTS]       PROOF OF LIFE                            ABOUT YOU:
                             THE FOLKS BACK HOME ARE WORRIED
                                                                                                                                                     by AMANDA KENDLE

                                                        HY? BUT DON’T JUST CC
                       KIDNAPED? MUGGED? EATING HEALT
                                                       RY THESE THREE WAYS TO
                       THEM ON YOUR NEXT MASS E-MAIL—T
                                                       AND KICKING.
                       LET MOM KNOW YOU’RE STILL ALIVE




     THE RED-PHONE DISTRICT IN LONDON                       WASH AND WATCH IN
                                                            STRASBOURG
     London’s an irritatingly famous city. Even those
     who’ve never suffered through a Heathrow pass-         It’s the drab part of the traveling life that
     port control queue think they know all about it.       doesn’t usually make it into the maga-
     Call home and while you try to talk about the          zines or the chat rooms: the sad fact that       FROM LIECHTENSTEIN WITH LOVE
     important stuff, like your amazing discovery of        sometime you have to do your laundry.
     the first Greek-slash-Japanese fusion café in          You’ll get clean clothes and happier bunk        When did you last send a postcard? Email and the prolifer-
     funky Covent Garden, all you’ll hear will be “Did      mates, and prevent Mom from worrying             ation of Internet cafes have largely put a stop to the ol’ post-
     you see the Tower Bridge? Ride in a double-deck-       for at least a couple of days, if you email      card trade. But lots of people still like to get something col-
     er yet? Been to check out Buckingham Palace?”          ahead to let her know when you’ll be vis-        orful, ragged around the edges, and inked up in the mailbox.
                                                            iting the Happy Wash Laundromat in               What better place to make them happy than from than a
     Perhaps the ultimate stereotypical London expe-        Strasbourg, northern France. Whether             ridiculously small country whose biggest draw is actually
     rience would be to arrange tea and scones with         with the good intention of keeping people        stamps. Liechtenstein in fact uses both the postage stamps
     the Queen and her corgis, but a worthwhile sec-        in touch, or merely the voyeuristic pleas-       and the ones in your passport to attract visitors.
     ond choice is to call and explain how much more        ure of watching the dirty stuff go in and
     there is to London—from one of their landmark          the clean bits come out, the proprietors         Nestled cozily between Switzerland and Austria and rating
     red telephone booths. Cleverly combine your            have set up a webcam which broadcasts            just a page or two of a passing mention in most guidebooks,
     sightseeing activities with keeping in touch.          live the goings-on in front of the washing       it’s a country with an area not quite as large as Washington
     They’re easily spotted by the instantly recogniza-     machines. The Internet eye captures              DC and a population of just 33,000. Pretty easy for a traveler
     ble color—London phone box red—and their gen-          everything from mixed loads, stains from         to run out of things to do here, especially if the weather’s not
     tly curved top edges above the royal crown and         Oktoberfest, some laundry lovin’ (those          conducive to hiking. But the draw to say you were in the 6th
     quaint “TELEPHONE” lettering. A scheme to              French!), and backpacker messages.               smallest country in the world, with the funkiest name,

                                                                                                                                                                                  Photos: Ian Dorant, Courtesty of Liechtenstein Toursim
     replace them all with fancy modern jobs a few                                                           deserves a postcard home. Spend 1.80 Swiss francs (yes, Swiss
     years back met with howls of protest, so you can       Spend an afternoon in Alsace-Lorraine’s          francs--Liechtenstein is too tiny to warrant its own currency)
     still find them in many parts of London, especial-     pretty capital making good use of the            on the latest sought-after-by-stamp-geeks postage stamp to
     ly the tourist drag. Keep a handful of coins at        washing machines with the most multilin-         send a postcard of the grinning Liechtenstein royals to the
     the ready and follow the polite British instruc-       gual instructions you’ll ever find. While        U.S. You can also pay a couple of francs to get a Liechtenstein
     tions. You’ll be helping to keep the experience        you’re doing your whites, Mom can tune           stamp in your passport—depressingly rare in these practically
     alive for your future fellow travelers, too; recent    into happywash.com and you can wave,             borderless days of the European Union. If you’re going to send
     stats show that at least a third of these famous       write messages in liquid soap on your t-         the folks at home that long-promised postcard just once dur-
     telephone booths are running at a loss, because        shirts, and prove you’re not only alive and      ing your trip--and let’s face it, usually you remember at the air-
     so many people are making connections with             probably illness-free, but that at least         port before the flight home—then at least mail it from an
     their cell phones instead. So jump inside a box,       once during your trip, your clothes have         obscure nation like Liechtenstein and give them something
     dial Mum at home, and keep everyone happy.             seen soap and water.                             conversation-worthy to put on the fridge.


     IN THE NEXT ISSUE (COMING IN AUGUST): The Student Traveler Annual Guide! Your resource book on how to travel, work, study, volunteer, teach, and become a polyglot abroad
                                                                                 -- all in style.
     38           www.STUDENTTRAVELER.com
Photos: Ian Dorant, Courtesty of Liechtenstein Toursim
                                                         *April05_5
                                                         4/7/05
                                                         6:14 PM
                                                         Page 39
*April05_5   4/7/05   6:14 PM   Page 40




                                                       Want to immerse yourself in a meaningful, cultural journey?
                                               From one week to six months, i-to-i offers the most extensive choices
                                          of humanitarian and preservation projects worldwide. Volunteer in places
                                           where you can roll up your sleeves, expand your mind, share your heart,
                                                               impact a community, and create life-long memories.

                                               For information and a free brochure call 1-800-985-4864
                                                                               or visit www.i-to-i.com.

				
DOCUMENT INFO