Picnic Lunch Wall (DOC) by pengxuebo

VIEWS: 17 PAGES: 10

									Picnic Lunch Wall
Five Easy Pieces-1st Pitch 12a ***, 2nd Pitch 13a, 3rd Pitch 12c, 4th Pitch 12c Bolts
This multipitch sport route starts in between Unfinished Symphony and Teddy Bears Picnic. The juggy
first pitch is quite popular.

Bubba's In Bondage-1st Pitch 5.11c *** Gear to 1 inch (Stoppers, HB Offsets,
TCU's)
The first pitch of this aid route was finally cleaned and freed in 1999. The crux frees a bolt ladder on a
technical slab of good rock. Finish with naturally protected tips jams, stems, and simple face moves in the
elegant dihedral.

Masochistic Desires-5.11c ** Bolts
A sport variation to Bubba's In Bondage shares the same start, then traverses right past two bolts to an
anchor by a small offset.

Sad But True-5.11a * Bolts and a few nuts
The furthest left route on Picnic Lunch Wall shares the same start as Journey to Ixtlan. A moderate crack
leads to a bolted layback flake. After a small roof, face moves lead to the anchor.

Shipwreck Wall

Bolt From the Blue-5.11d *** Bolts
This climb is the furthest uphill on the Shipwreck Wall. The upper section climbs the obvious black water
streak.

East Ship River Face

Time To Shower-5.8 *** Bolts
This moderate face starts just left of Time to Power downhill from the Shipwreck Wall. A simple ramp
leads to a few tricky moves around the arete and a fun finish to the anchor.

Aggro Gully

Planet Mechanic-5.12a ** Bolts
A new route shares the same start as Up For Grabs on the left side of Aggro Wall. Instead of traversing
left, climb straight up past the bolts with black hangers to the anchor.

West Ship River Face

Purple Missle-5.7 ** Bolts
This knobby slab is on the left side of the bottom of the Aggro Gully. Climb simple knobs past five bolts to
a chain anchor above a small ledge.

Phone Call From Satan-5.9 ** Bolts
This testament to the will power of the first ascent party climbs a series of pockets and cleaning scars on
the slab below Power. (You need a 60 meter rope to get down.)

Caffeine Free-First pitch 5.10c Second Pitch 5.11a * Bolts
Another fine route climbs the well bolted (formerly A4) No Doz. The second pitch climbs the steep face
left of the Solar dihedral.

Cocaine Gully

Just left of Bound In Bogota, are these two new sport routes.

Deep Impact-5.10c ** Bolts
This diverse route starts with a powerful layback, then moves right to a short section of knobby edges.
After a tricky move onto a small ledge, deep pockets and a short arete section lead to Rap Hangers.

Armageddon-5.11a *** Bolts
After a powerful boulder problem at the start knobs, pockets, and a few arete moves lead to a sport
anchor.




                                                 Page 1 of 10
On the left side of the gully are these six new routes.

Crack Cocaine-5.11c ** Bolts
Between Crack Babies and Bongo Fury is a steep bolted crack. A steep juggy start leads to the crux flare
at the fourth bolt. After the crux, fun 5.10 climbing leads to the anchor.

Crack Babies-5.12b *** Bolts
This steep route climbs the arete between Quest to Fire and Crack Cocaine.

Bloodshot-5.11c **** Bolts
Fun moves and a great position highlight this new sport route just downhill from Quest to Fire.

Unknown-5.12 Bolts **
There is a short route on the steep arete uphill of Hippos on Ice. It ends at a single bolt with a quicklink
on it.

Earth 2-0-5.10d Bolts **
This fun route climbs small pockets and edges to fun finish above a small roof.

Unknown-5.11a Bolts *
This mediocre route above the approach chimney on the left side of the gully climbs a face with some
cleaning scars.

Morning Glory Wall

Cool Ranch Flavor-5.11b ** Bolts
This fun route climbs the pocketed seam just left of Taco Chips to a powerful crux right at the top.

Nine Gallon Buckets-5.10c *** Bolts
This line of huge huecos right of Overboard had an extension added to it. The crux sequence of sidepulls
and pockets is above the first anchor. You need a 60-meter rope to get down from the upper anchor.

Lion Zion-5.10c *** Bolts
Well-spaced bolts, spooky knobs, and an exposed position on the face right of the Zebra dihedral make
this more exciting than a typical 5.10c. Climb Zebra Seam, Zebra Direct, or Gumby to approach. Rappel
with two ropes.

Morning Sky-5.10c *** Bolts
This extension to Gumby is quite popular. It raises the grade only slightly.


The Outsiders-5.9 *** Bolts
In between Five Gallon Buckets and Light on the Path is this fun new climb. It is harder than Buckets but
easier than Light On the Path.

Five Gallon Buckets-5.8 **** Bolts
This line of huge polished pockets is probably the most popular beginners route at Smith. It starts just
left of Light on the Path.

The Fourth Horsemen

Four new routes have been added to this diverse formation.

Snuffy Smith Buttress-5.9 ** Bolts
This moderate route is on the small pinnacle on right side of the Fourth Horsemen.

No Golf Shoes-5.11a ** Bolts
In between Snuffy Smith and Fridays Jinx is a long sport route. It starts just left of a wide crack. Climb a
short pitch to the first anchor (5.10-), lower off here, or climb up the steep face to a second anchor.

John Galt Line-5.11b *** Bolts
Just right of Pack Animal Direct rises this quality face. The good rock, intriguing moves, closely spaced
bolts, and excellent position should make it
popular.




                                                  Page 2 of 10
Unknown-5.10b *** Bolts
Another high quality new route climbs the arete on the left wall of the Pack Animal Direct dihedral. You
could use it as a direct start to Headless
Horsemen.

Dihedrals

Unknown-5.6 ** Bolts
A new route climbs the featured slab above the belay ledge on Cinnamon Slab. If you start with Ginger
Snap it can be climbed in one pitch from the ground.


Unknown-5.9 *** Bolts
This fun route climbs the exposed arete just left of Cinnamon Toast. Try starting with Ginger Snap and
climb it in one long pitch to the top. Rappel Cinnamon Slab.

Karate Wall-5.12b **** Bolts
This quality line immediately became more popular after it was retro-bolted in 1998.

Middle Aged Vandal-5.11c *** Bolts
Good rock and fun pockets highlight this well protected route on the steep face between Moonshine
Dihedral and the Flat Earth. Pumping moves split by ledges lead to a final crux just below the anchor.

Christian Brothers

Heresy-5.11b/c *** Bolts
Destined to be very popular, a short bulging arete lurks just left of Shoes of the Fisherman. Strenuous
cranks between good holds lead to a tricky move to the finishing jug.

Unknown-5.10b *** Bolts
An exposed face left of Heathen's Highway starts on top of the Testament Slab. Climb straight up the
steep face to an anchor.

Blasphemy-5.11a *** Bolts
Just left of the Testament Slab, this route starts on a large ledge right off the ground. Fun pockets off the
starting block lead to a thin face move (crux). After an exciting layback around the roof, easy knobs lead
to an anchor above a ledge.

Unknown-5.10b *** Bolts
A fun new route climbs a featured face between Dancer and Ring of Fire. After a tricky start on some
knobs, a fun steep section above a hand crack leads to a simple slab finish. It shares an anchor with
Dancer.

The following two routes climb a knobby face just right of Asterisk Pass (uphill of Dancer)

Catherine Finds An Edge-5.7 ** Bolts
This fun route climbs the exposed arete on the southern edge of The Priest.

That First Step-5.9 ** Bolts
After that first step off the starting block, climb well-protected exciting nubbins to an anchor.

Smith Rock Group

The chimney leading up to Sky Chimney and White Satin has been bolted. There are numerous routes
starting from the ledges above this chimney.

Unknown-5.10b ** Bolts
A moderate face rises just left of White Satin. Small sharp knobs lead to an anchor halfway up the face.

Unknown-5.11c *** Bolts
An obvious arete left of White Satin, dominates the right side of the Smith Rock Group. This exposed
route climbs the right side of the arete to an
anchor.




                                                  Page 3 of 10
Phoenix Buttress

JT's Route 5.10b *** Bolts
This fun route starts just left of Fred on Air. It features good holds, good rock, and plenty of bolts.
Because of this, it has lots of traffic on hot afternoons.

Hissing Lamas 5.8 *** Bolts
Another moderate face climbs the low angled corner left of JT's Route. Enjoy.

Unknown 5.11a ** Bolts
This clean, slabby arete left of Hissing Lamas is popular because of its location and unassuming look.

Southern Tip

Sabotage-5.11c *** Bolts (Stick clip recommended)
This exciting climb lurks right of Yoderific. The crux is two powerful painful jams out the starting cave.
Above the starting cave, a fun slab leads to a pumpy layback and face moves. After a no-hands rest on
the pinnacle, the upper crux jams and laybacks a steep section of perfect rock.

Sunset Slab Area

Uphill from Sunset Slab are these two sport routes on a double-edged column.

Cure for Pain 5.11a *** Bolts
This brilliant arete with some scars from cleaning is on the left side of the block.

Butterknife 5.10d ** Bolts
The right arete climbs exciting knobs and edges to an anchor.

In between Cod Rock and Asterisk Pass are these two new routes.

Cryptesthesia-10d/11a *** Bolts
This knobby face is downhill of Zigzag.

Pocket Pool-10d/11a ** Bolts
A streaked wall is about 100 feet uphill of Zigzag. Please approach and leave by walking up the main trail
until you are horizontal with the climb and walk straight across the slope to the base. This will help
preserve the fragile hillside.

The following routes make excellent access pitches for such climbs as No
Brain No Pain, No Pain No Gain, and Tears of Rage. They are also excellent routes for mid-level climbers.

Adventurous 9904-5.8 *** Bolts
This fun knob route climbs the pillar by the start of No Brain No Pain. It is about 100 yards west of
Asterisk Pass.

The Unforgiven-5.10d *** Bolts
Climb Adventurous 9904 (5.8) to the top of the pillar. Well-scrubbed knobs and pockets in a water streak
(5.8) lead to a belay below a bolted flake crack. Simple moves off the belay lead to fun liebacks and jams
up the steep flake. After the steep start, finish with the flake crack on the left (5.8) or the bolted arete on
the right (5.10d). One rappel with two ropes or three rappels with a 60meter rope gets you back on the
ground.

Wherever I May Roam-5.10a *** Bolts 1st pitch 5.8 2nd pitch 5.8 3rd pitch 5.9
4th pitch 5.10a 5th pitch 5.8
This five pitch odyssey wanders its way to the top of the northwest wall of the Smith Rock Group. Start at
the base of the Adventurous 9904 pillar. Climb Adventurous 9904 to a belay. Step over the chimney and
climb the waterstreak to a belay anchor. Climb up and left onto a slopping ledge and step left onto the
knobby face. Climb up and left on big knobs and pockets to an anchor on the arete. A tricky start off the
belay and exciting moves on an exposed arete lead to a belay on a low angled slab. After the belay, a fun
slab leads to a steep finishing headwall. Rappel down to the ledge below and walk right 40 feet to another
rappel anchor. Three more rappels with a 60 meter rope get you to the ground.




                                                  Page 4 of 10
Christian Brothers-West Side

Just over Asterisk Pass is this hidden crag with three new routes. Approach by scrambling through a
narrow notch to the right of the regular pass (just left of Catherine Finds An Edge).

Little Indian Princess-5.7 *** Bolts
Huge knobs on the starting wall highlight this fun route. Finish by wandering left to a sport anchor above
a flake crack.

Am I Evil?-5.8 ** Bolts
An attractive flake crack rises just left of Little Indian Princess. After the crux layback at the start, simple
moves up the slab lead to a fun finish up the bolted flake.

Lunatic To Love-5.9 *** Bolts
After a tricky start on a vertical wall, fun knobs on great rock lead to a sport anchor.

Benedictine Punk-5.7 *** Bolts
This fun climb has the same start as Manic Nirvana. After a bolted crack at the start, fun knobs on a slab
lead to an anchor.

Innocent Victim-5.10a ** Bolts
A more challenging start shares the first three bolts on Manic Nirvana, then joins Benedictine Punk at the
second bolt.

Holier Than Thou-5.11b **** Bolts
This exceptional route starts on the ledge above Benedictine Punk.       A fun start on a knobby slab leads to
a steep finish on pockets and edges.

Get on the Ball-5.10b *** Bolts
An attractive arete rises to the right of Holier Than Thou. After some tricky moves at the start, fun knobs
lead to an anchor.


Snake Rock

Don't Tread On Me-5.8 *** Bolts
This low angled slab and arete is just left of the first pitch of The Snake. The moves are fun and well
protected. An optional finish (5.10b) climbs past two bolts to an upper anchor on a ledge.

Iguanas on Elm Street-5.10b *** Bolts
A featured arete of good rock rises just right of the Golden Road.

Pillar of the Community

This hidden crag is in an obscure alcove between Snake Rock and the Angel Flight Crags. The best
approach rappels in from bolts at the top of the Dihedrals.

La Nina-5.10b ** Bolts
This fun route climbs the northwest arete of the Pillar. After a fun pull over the roof, arete moves, knobs,
and pockets finish to the anchor.

Angel Flight Crags

Follies of Youth-5.9 ** Bolts
This formerly runout route has been retro-bolted. It might be a worthy diversion if nothing else is open.

Unknown-5.9 ** Bolts
A lichen covered face left of Follies of Youth looks similar to its neighbor to the right.

Spiderman Buttress

Squashed Spider-5.7 ** Bolts
This former free solo was recently bolted. It climbs the outside arete of the slab leaning against the base
of the Spiderman Buttress.




                                                   Page 5 of 10
Mesa Verde Wall

Massive Luxury Overdose (AKA Planet Luxury)-5.10c ** Bolts
The face left of Trezlar follows a series of well-scrubbed holds to an anchor.

Red Wall

Breakdown In Paradise-5.10b *** Bolts
This interesting face climbs the Swiss cheese rock just right of the start of Moscow.

If Six Were Nine-5.10b *** Bolts
The direct start to Helter Skelter was retrobolted by a local climber to make it easier for him access a new
route that he is working above the belay ledge.

Koala Rock

These routes are on the Southeast face of Koala Rock

Ryan's Arete-5.10c **** Bolts
This exciting route climbs the featured arete right of Heatstroke. Jam Heatstroke to the second seam that
diagonals toward the arete. After traversing around the arete on weird looking rock, long reaches
between big holds lead past three more bolts to the first anchor.

Through Being Cool-5.11a *** Bolts
Left of Heatstroke on a beautiful slab is this fine route. Climb sharp positive edges to a short crux on
perfect rock.

Cool Air-5.11a *** Bolts
The stunning arete left of Through Being Cool falls to a series of exciting moves on perfect rock.

Suck My Kiss-5.9 **** Bolts
A beautiful detached slab of rock makes up the lower section of Koala Rock. Suck My Kiss climbs the
arete/face on the right side of the slab. After a few powerful cranks around the starting arete (crux) finish
with the fun slab covered with huge knobs. This route is easily toproped by scrambling up easy rock just
below Cool Air.

Thin Air-5.9 **** Gear to 3 inches
This fine route is the best multi-pitch 5.9 route at Smith. If you don't want to place any gear start with
Suck My Kiss (5.9) or Buffalo Power (5.10c). The previously runout second pitch was recently retrobolted.
The third pitch (bolts) pulls over two exciting bulges on good holds with great rock and breathtaking
position.

Buffalo Power-5.10c **** Bolts
This diverse route climbs the face around the arete left of Thin Air. After stems and knobs in the starting
dihedral, tricky face moves get you onto a small ledge. Above the ledge, a strenuous lieback (crux) leads
to a fun finish on big holds.

These moderate faces are on the west side of Koala Rock.

Round Here-5.6 ** Bolts
A fine climb for a budding leader. Start just left of Catty Corner and climb the slab to an anchor.

Round There-5.6 *** Bolts
This fun slab above a boulder has excellent rock and fun moves on interesting holds. The hardest moves
are right above the starting boulder.

Round River Direct-5.8 *** Bolts
A long ignored finish to Round River was recently retrobolted. It adds a fun, safe, more challenging finish
to an already excellent route. It takes off from the regular route after the second belay. If you runner
gear properly and use a 70 meter rope, you can climb the entire route in one pitch from the ground.

This route is on the northwest face of Koala Rock. The best approach climbs up Round River or Thin Air,
and walks down the north side.




                                                  Page 6 of 10
Virgin Arete-5.11b *** Bolts
Powerful moves on perfect rock highlight this wonderful short route. Difficult starting moves on the left
side of the arete lead to an exciting finish on jugs. Stick-clip the first bolt or solo the crux (rough
landing).

These short routes are on the uphill side of Koala Rock, just right of the rappel. They make a worthy
diversion after topping out on Round River or Thin Air.

The Knob-5.10a ** Bolts
This short climb is named after the memorable first hold of the route. After an awkward crux pull on the
biggest knob at Smith, romp up huge holds to an anchor.

Hero of the Day-5.7 *** Bolts
Another fun route climbs the featured slab left of The Knob.

Exercise in Futility-5.7 ** Gear to 1.5 inches
Three cracks split this wall. Exercise in Futility climbs the rightmost crack.

Exit of Humanity-5.10a ** Bolts
Start at the base of Exercise in Futility. A somewhat awkward crux leads to a fun pull over a small roof.
After the roof, good holds lead to the anchor.

Keep the Faith-5.10d ** Gear to 2 inches
If you are a self-loathing masochist you might enjoy this obvious flare right of I'm Your Life. The rock and
pro are good but the moves pulling the bulge are desperate. Above the bulge, enjoy the easy finish.

I'm Your Life-5.8 *** Gear to 3 inches
Much better than it looks, this chimney/crack is well protected and surprisingly clean and solid.

These two routes are on the east side of Koala Rock downhill of the rappel off the back. The best
approach is to climb either Round River or Thin Air and walk down to the routes.

To Live is To Die-5.10c *** Bolts
Yet another fun new route climbs a diagonal rail, tufas, and pockets to a crux crank on small knobs. After
the crux, fun cranks on jugs and pockets lead to the anchor.

King of Pain-5.11b *** Bolts
Just downhill from To Live is To Die is this endurance test. A steep start on honeycomb rock and a
strenuous traverse lead to a powerful crux crank on a sloping pocket. After the crux, a huge ledge makes
for a good rest. Finish with good holds on the beautiful tufa headwall.

The Wombat

These routes start from the Santiam Highway Ledges.

Vombatus Ursinus-5.10c *** Gear to 2 inches
Jam and stem up a tricky right facing corner. Pumping underclings lead to good jams and jugs above the
roof. Climb the steep slab/dihedral past four bolts to a small ledge. Savor the exposure as you romp up
good holds past three bolts, to a second ledge.

Where?-5.10c ** Bolts
Pint sized sport route to the left of Vombatus Ursinus climbs tiny edges and pockets to an anchor.


What?-5.10c * Bolts
Another tiny route left of Where? The crux is right at the top.

This diverse route starts below the slab on the northwest corner of the Wombat




                                                  Page 7 of 10
Birds in a Rut-5.7R ** Gear to 3 inches
Wander up and left past bolts (runout) to an anchor in a giant hueco. Belay. Traverse left to a bolt above
a ledge. From here, climb the simple ramp to a huge grassy ledge. Belay. Walk (2nd class) up to an
exposed ledge on the northwest corner. Belay. Traverse the lichen-covered slab past one bolt to a fist
crack. At the top of the crack, pull over the bulge to the left (bolt), and climb past three more bolts to
another ledge. Belay. Stem, jam, and chimney the tight, lichen filled dihedral 80 feet to a ledge with a
rappel anchor. Continue to the summit (awkward 5.7) or rappel. Another rappel station is at the bottom
ledge accessed by the second pitch. You only need one rope to get down.

The first two pitches of Birds In A Rut, are the only way to access these routes.

To Go Beyond-5.12? Bolts (Open project)
This route climbs a beautiful black streak above a huge ledge system on the left side of the Wombat. A
powerful start leads to a slab with multiple bouldering sequences that lead to a brutal crux on the gently
overhanging wall above.

Endless Weekend-5.10b *** Bolts
Highly recommended, this short overhanging jug haul is a race for the anchor. With great rock, excellent
position, and big fun moves, it is easily the best route on the Wombat.

Brogan Spire Complex

These unusual routes are in a secluded alcove on the southeast side of Brogan Spire. All three are
overhanging with huge holds. The approach comes through the chimney (5.0) between Brogan Spire and
Mini Half Dome. Walk around the buttress, through the tunnel, and up the hill. They are described in
order from right to left. While you are here, climb The Cave Route. It is well worth it.

Under the Gun-5.10a *** Bolts
A well-protected face with a few awkward moves starts the left of the water groove.

Short Sharp Shock-5.10b *** Bolts
Powerful, overhanging moves highlight this route up solid yet unnerving holds.

Walking on Broken Glass-5.11a *** Bolts
Severely overhanging route powers it's way to the anchor on huge holds.

Living Blindly-5.7 **** Bolts
This long route starts with the first pitch of The Cave Route then climbs to the summit of the Tail or the
Opossum. After you get to the top of the first pitch of The Cave Route, climb straight right past numerous
bolts to a short crux. Belay at rap hangers. Next, climb the featured ramp to the notch between the
Opossum and the Tail. Take your pick of which summit you want to bag! Rappel from the summit of the
Tail to the second belay. One more rappel gets you to an easy scramble to the ground.

This long route starts 75 feet left of the burned out snag at the base of the
South Buttress route. It the first route you will see as you walk to the
east from the Mini Half Dome notch.

Barred Reality-5.10c *** Bolts (optional gear for summit pitch 5.4)
After a powerful boulder problem off the ground, tricky moves on weird looking rock lead to a beautiful
slab. Climb the simple slab past widely spaced bolts to an anchor on a large ledge. Another boulder
problem leads past two bolts to a second anchor. The third pitch climbs from the hole on The Cave Route
straight up the featured slab to the summit. Rappel The Cave Route.

This fine route is on the largely undeveloped, bulging northwest wall of Brogan Spire

Pouches-5.11c *** Bolts
A steep wall covered with a huge huecos is downhill of The Great Roof. Wander up overhanging potholes
to a powerful crux. The bolted hand traverse to the anchor adds to the excitement and the pump.

Mini Half Dome

Mini Half Dome-5.8 *** Bolts
This route starts above the chimney separating Mini Half Dome from Brogan Spire. It was recently
retrobolted. Climb the easy slab past two bolts to a small ledge. Clip the bolt in your face and make one
hard move. An easy slab leads to the proud summit.




                                                 Page 8 of 10
Spankies Quest for the Nectar Hole-5.10c **Bolts
Start on the face left of the fist crack below the northwest arete of Mini Half Dome. Climb the knobby face
up and around the arete to a small inside corner. After a around the second arete, good pockets lead over
a small roof and to an anchor.

The Mudpile

This previously unnamed chunk of stone consists of the long ridge of rock extending to the south from
Mini Half Dome. Many new sport routes are on this formation. Approach by walking downhill along the
west wall of Brogan Spire or uphill from the boulder field above the canal.

Edge of the World-5.10a *** Bolts (optional medium to large stoppers)
The first route to touch the east face of the Mudpile. Start 50 feet uphill from the southern tip. Face
climb steep sharp holds past two bolts to a ledge. Traverse left past another bolt and the sport anchor to
another ledge. Easy climbing past five more bolts leads to a huge ledge and an anchor. Belay here.
Wander up and left 50 feet on third class rock to a bolt left of a large cave. Easy climbing up excellent
rock leads past another bolt to a simple crack. One more bolt protects the final moves to the anchor in a
water groove. Rappel the route.

Marsupial Madness-5.11c ** Bolts
This route starts just below Edge of the World. Tricky sequences on sharp holds and pockets lead to
strenuous moves to a huge suitcase handle. From here, move up and right to a sport anchor. It is easily
toproped by climbing the start of Edge of the World.

Rampage-5-11a *** Bolts
Another anti-Smith route, Rampage climbs the steep, wildly featured wall left of Marsupial Madness. After
a powerful start, huge jugs lead to a powerful crux just below the anchor.

These excellent long sport routes are on the west side of the Mudpile. All of the routes can be climbed in
one or two pitches to the top. To get down, walk up the ridge 300 feet and rappel from the anchor on Tuff
Shit. They are described right to left.

Truth Assassin-5.9 ** Bolts
After a knobby start, huge holds lead to the final slab. After the optional belay, climb huge huecos to the
summit ridge.

Blacklisted-5.10a *** Bolts (14 bolts)
This long route starts just left of Truth Assassin. A line of pockets off the ground lead to a short crux.
Wander up the slab past an optional belay to the summit.

Carla the Stripper-5.8 *** Bolts
Solo the left side of the giant flake leaning against the wall to the first bolt. Five more bolts lead to an
anchor at a good stance. Belay here or keep climbing past four bolts to the summit and another anchor.

Lusty Lady-5.7 **** Bolts
This is an excellent finish to Carla the Stripper. It takes off left up the same slab as Undying Spite after
the first belay.

Undying Spite-5.10d *** Bolts (14 bolts)
An excellent finish highlights this diverse route left of Carla the Stripper. Climb the simple slab to a steep
crux pulling over a bulge. Huge holds pull right around an arete to the optional belay. After the belay, a
clean, pocketed slab leads to the top.

These routes on the west face of the Mudpile are close to Mini Half Dome.

Kid Packed Minivan From Hell-5.10c *** Bolts
A fun route climbs the juggy arete to the right of an ugly chimney. Steep jugs at the start lead to a crux
on small knobs. Lower from sport anchors or belay from an anchor at the top and rappel from the anchor
on Tuff Shit.

The Wormhole-5.6 * Gear to 2.5 inches
This obvious chimney is downhill of Tuff Shit. Climb jugs on the outside of the chimney until another tight
chimney leads left. Squirm up and left to a ledge. Traverse left past the bush and climb up the face crack
to a single bolt anchor on the ridge. Rappel from the anchor on Tuff Shit.




                                                  Page 9 of 10
Xenophobe-5.10c ** Bolts
Another short climb cranks an absurdly steep start on a wave of pocketed rock (crux), to a simple finish
up a slab.

My Name is Mud-5.10b ** Bolts
This fun route cranks over a steep bulge on good holds to a fun finish on a slab.

Tuff Shit-5.10a *** Bolts
This surprisingly solid route starts about 200 feet downhill from Mini Half Dome. Climb the steep face on
jugs to a small ledge. An intimidating move onto the slab is the crux. Simple moves on the low angled
slab lead up and left to an anchor on the ridge.

Delirium Tremens

Two attractive 5.11's climb the back of this chunk of stone. I am not sure of their exact grades.




                                                Page 10 of 10

								
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