F l y F i s h e r s Fo r C o n s e r va t i o n
Volume 47 Issue 7
F LY D O P E Fresno, CA
INSIDE THIS ISSUE:
Festival of Fly Fishing 2 July 26, FFFC Picnic and Pot luck
Fly’s From Jerry’s Bench 4 This month is our annual summer picnic and pot luck, the club will provide
Casting Practice 7 hot dogs or if you prefer tube steaks and hamburgers, soft drinks paper plates and
June Raffle 8 plastic ware. So please bring a side dish, salad or desert. Most important bring
Bulletin Board 9 yourself and come and share stories ask questions and have a great time.
Dan Busby will teaching fly casting, Dave Burris will demonstrate rod
building and there will be various fly tiers practicing there craft. This is our kick
back and just enjoy each other company meeting so see you there.
Special Points of
Interest: PRESIDENTS MESSAGE Stephen Neal
July “In Wildness is the Preservation of the World “ Henry David Thoreau
26th Our Big Meadows project is moving forward, the project is scheduled to break
ground this September. This conservation effort is to help restore the meadow to a
more natural state. A combination of flawed management policy, confined grazing
Picnic pot luck and good intention with lessons learned have adversely affected the stream flow
and water holding capacity of the meadow.
General Meeting The plug and pond method that we are implementing will raise the water
Casting, Fly Tying level in the meadow allowing more water storage in the meadow. This storage will
& FFF Presenta- even out flows to the Kings River over the entire water cycle year. Better water
meadow storage translate to better fish habitat, gradual water release to match the
tion growing season of our agricultural valley communities, clearer streams and less
sediment deposits in front of our hydro electrical generation systems.
Our clubs efforts to restore Big Meadows through increasing the water storage
Check the Bulletin capacity pays off for our whole community. We get to restore a beautiful fish habi-
board! tat, that helps the forest and it’s plant and wildlife community, more fish means
more recreational opportunities, better water delivery means a stronger local agri-
cultural economy and less sedimentation behind our hydro electric generation
plants means less cost for costly clean up and maintenance which decrease the
amount needed for rate increases. Big meadows is for all of us.
If you would like to donate $1, $5, $10 or more please contact Jayne Fer-
rante at (559) 437-1818. Or any of the Board Members. Your dollars will help
FFFC take care of our whole community.
(This issue of the fly dope is late due to a computer melt down)
Page 2 Fresno, CA
Fly Dope Page 3
Outings Jeff Trafican & Bob Papazian
Kaweah Club Big Meadows Outing
A nice time was had by all that attended the Kaweah Club’s outing at Big Meadows on June 16th. Thanks go
out to Fred Naylor and all those that put on the outing. Along with some good food there was a presentation by
Marianne Emmendorfer of the Forest Service. She gave a background on the Big Meadow situation and then
took us on a walk through the meadow. There were some contests held and the results were: Roger Miller and
Ian Porteous won the casting contest, Brian McManus won the fly tying contest (he was tying without a vise),
and Jerry Hopewell won the photo contest. In addition some of us were able to sneak away and do a little fish-
ing. Bob Papazian and I fished on Boulder Creek and caught a good number of rainbow and brook trout. Bob
really knocked’em dead with a little caddis pattern. All in all it was a really good day.
Edison Lake Trip
Our July outing (July 20-22) is a weekend trip to the Edison Lake area. If you have fished this area before, you
know there are many places to fish. This would include both lakes and streams. If you haven’t been in this area
this is a good time to get started. Some of us will be staying in the Mono Creek Campground located on the
road to Edison Lake. A meal will be provided Saturday night. If you are planning on attending or would like
more information please contact me.
Directions to Mono Creek Campground: Take Hwy 168 through Shaver Lake. Continue through Shaver to
Huntington Lake. At the east end of Huntington Lake turn right on Kaiser Pass Road (at the Eastwood Visitor
Center). Travel 17 miles to Edison Lake Road. Turn left toward Edison Lake and travel 4.5 miles to the camp-
Jerry Hopewell's winning picture from the Bob Papazian fishing Boulder creek
Big Meadows Outing” near Big Meadows
Page 4 Fresno, CA
Fly’s from Jerry’s Bench Jerry Hopewell
Wayne Luallen has agreed to allow Fresno Fly Fishers for Conservation to
use a number of his articles. This will be the first one.
Jerry Hopewell firstname.lastname@example.org
WHY BOTHER TO CLEAN YOUR MATERIALS
Bugs, dirt and chemicals are likely on most materials. There are multiple advantages
to removing them:
A. Will remove some eggs/larvae/adult insects, spiders, etc., that ultimately
may damage the material.
B. Dirt on material often has a detrimental effect on the application of it to the
C. Who knows what manner of pesticide and/or fumigant residue may have
been around or on a material that the tier or others in turn can be exposed to.
D. Clean materials are just nicer to work with. They have a better feel, more pleasant smell, and generally function
better in the tying process.
TYPICAL TOOLS OF THE MATERIALS CLEANING TRADE
A. Standard and fine-toothed combs.
B. Small and large sieves to remove loose feathers from a bath and/or draining water from materials.
C. Pistol-type blow dryer.
D. Cleaning agent: Dishwashing liquid (Dawn is a favorite), Woolite, Liquid Ammonia, Acetone (organic
degreasing agent as well as being hydrophobic to wet/damp materials).
E. Hair conditioner.
F. Pillow case.
G. Borax (not the soap) or salt (only as a last resort)
H. Table knife, tea or soup spoon.
I. Sharp pocket knife to cut hides. Cutting is generally easier with wet hides. Dry hides may tear (bird skins) or
may be too stiff (elk and moose).
J. Rags, paper towels, newspaper.
K. Tea kettle to steam materials.
L. A sink or bucket to wash the material in.
A. Almost anything can be washed
1. To be safe, avoid strong laundry detergents. Dishwashing liquids, though detergents, generally are
adequate and reasonably safe degreasers. When nothing else will do, the ultimate degreaser is
Ammonia. Place approximately one cup of ammonia into a gallon of water. Soak the material in this
solution outside (due to hazardous fumes) for a few hours. Rinse thoroughly, wash in dishwashing
liquid and rinse thoroughly again.
2. As a final wash, using Woolite seems to add a bit of luster, especially to feathers.
3. Thoroughly rinse after each wash.
4. Avoid washing in hotter water than hot tap water (no more than 140deg. F) to avoid skin shrinkage and/
or possible feather barb damage.
B. A final rinse of conditioner may prove helpful on materials such as calf and deer tails.
C. Remove as much residue tissue and oil/fat as possible.
1. This helps keep the material clean since oil attracts dirt. Continued Pg. 5
Fly Dope Page 5
2. Slows or avoids mildew from forming.
3. Oils will be removed generally by washing alone, but upon drying, may be blotted with a paper towel on the skin
side (generally of birds or bucktails).
4. Fat is best removed by scraping with a dull "table" knife, grapefruit knife/spoon, spoon, or possibly a sharp
knife. Effective cleaning will vary with the type of material. Sometimes removal is easier after washing while the
skin is still wet, but usually it is easier when dry, which is definitely the case with hackle and saddle capes.
Borax is preferable to salt.
A. It wicks oils, but will not be left behind in the skin as is salt which dries the skin (especially on hackle capes),
often to excess.
B. Borax acts as a bug-proofing agent in feathers and fur. This may be useful on whole bird skins or in the hair of
Blow drying is best on:
A. Hackle/saddle capes.
B. Fur-bearing animal skins, such as rabbit, muskrat, etc.
C. Loose, damp (blotted) feathers B Place in a pillow case with the nozzle of a blow dryer inserted just inside.
Wrap the pillow case open end around the nozzle of the dryer. As the air blows into the ballooning pillow case,
"bounce" the feathers. This process takes about 5 minutes for 1/8 - 1/4 oz. of feathers.
Open air drying works best on:
A. Larger bird skins blotted and placed on absorbent paper. Every few hours flip sides. (It may be necessary to
change the paper if it gets too damp.)
B. Deer, elk, bucktails, etc. - Best placed between two "racks" such as frames of chicken wire or barbecue/oven
grates with some weight on top to allow air to reach both surfaces helping to avoid skin curl. They can be
tacked down to a frame, hair-side up, to allow even drying and to avoid hair matting, but the skin dries more
slowly than when on a rack. To remove the "crease marks" from the wire or grates, simply steam the material.
Note: Do not dry materials in a microwave. If there is skin attached, it will cook the skin and cause it to curl and shrink.
Note: Acetone (an organic solvent) is hydrophobic and should be considered when feathers (or perhaps other materials)
need to be dried quickly, i.e., during the process of dyeing.
A. Be careful not to burn the material or oneself in the steam.
B. Some clean materials may need steaming to "fluff" them up due to storage, etc.
1. Peacock herl is dramatically refreshed in steam (NOTE: Ostrich herl is susceptible to become "fuzzy" in
steam - work carefully with it if at all.)
2. Deer hair
a. Removes creased marks from drying racks.
b. Softens and swells it just prior to spinning.
c. Will straighten bent hair.
d. Makes trimming bugs/irresistible bodies cleaner and easier.
3. Matted feathers or fur
C. Care should be taken in not only the heat of the steam (the closer to the source, the hotter), but also the
quantity of the steam. Some materials need a blast and some a gentle waft of steam.
D. Old flies can be refreshed by washing in dishwashing liquid, rinsing, blotting, air drying, then steaming. Care
should be taken to avoid putting damp flies back into storage B hooks may rust.
A. Until proven otherwise, any new material to a collection is to be considered contaminated - no matter the
B. Always be on the lookout in your tying room for contamination by "bugs."
Continued Pg. 6
Continued from Pg. 5
Page 6 Fresno, CA
Cleaning Material Continued
C. Some insecticides are carcinogenic, so take care in handling, and avoid prolonged breathing of their fumes.
D. Microwaving cannot be depended on to kill eggs, larvae and/or adults.
E. Freezing will kill larvae and adults, but cannot be depended upon to kill eggs.
F. To kill, commercial bug sprays can be sprayed/poured onto a rag which is then sealed in a container with
infested materials. Again, this may not kill all eggs. After this process, wash the material to remove the insecti
G. If moth crystals are used, seal them with the material.
1. This fumigates the material.
2. It reduces fumes in the storage area.
3. Reduces waste of crystals (slows evaporation).
4. Paradichlorobenzene kills, naphthalene deters.
H. Specifically for Variegated Carpet Beetles, a method of killing them involves cycling the critters. Their hatching
period extends over a period of approximately 30-45 days. Place the material into a plastic bag in the freezer
overnight. Next day bring the material out and place in a dark location at room temperature for 30-45 days.
Again place the material back into the freezer again. Another possible solution is to periodically open up the en
tire room to extremes of hot or cold. For instance during the heat of summer or cold of winter, open the window
to the room that your tying materials are in. These beetles do not tolerate extremes of hot or cold. Prepare the
room accordingly so that nothing is damaged by these extreme climate changes, such as moisture on furniture,
STORAGE OF MATERIALS
Use sealable storage jars or plastic bags.
A. When using plastic sealed bags (Ziplock or heat-sealed), it can be assumed unlikely that bugs will get into the
bag (except for ants!), but are likely to eat their way out.
B. Plastic or glass jars may not store as compactly as plastic bags, but are sealable.
Note: Some hard plastics, such as Styrene, melt when exposed to Paradichlorobenzene.
C. It is wise when storing different materials in the same space to use multiple, sealable bags to compartmentalize
materials and reduce carry-over bug problems.
D. Make sure the material is completely dry before storing to avoid mildew.
E. Rubbermaid and Tupperware type containers may or may not seal completely. If they are used, be sure that you
acquire those that afford complete sealing.
CLEANING HACKLE CAPES AND SADDLES
A. If the cape/saddle is dirty, it is generally quite apparent. The skin may not appear that greasy, but look closely at
the feathers for barbs that adhere to adjacent barbs or feathers that appear dusty green (mildew.) Even capes/
saddles that appear clean, when wet will have areas of grease in/on the skin that are cream to amber in color, as
opposed to the clean skin which will be off-white to transparent. If grease is present, scrape the dry skin care
fully with a spoon in the direction the feather quills enter the skin, removing as much grease as possible. The
direction you scrape is important. Scraping the wrong way will cut into the quills, releasing the feathers from the
B. Wash in hot tap water with plenty of dishwashing liquid. Allow to soak for one hour with periodic agitation. (Note:
It may be advisable not to wash all saddles. Some, such as those from Whiting Farms, are from birds that have
been hybridized to never fully develop quills. Look for black specks where the quills should be. If they are pre
sent, this is a sign that the feathers are immature. When such saddles are washed, the feathers will fall out.)
C. Rinse thoroughly in warm water.
D. You may want to try an additional wash in Woolite.
E. After thorough rinsing, blot dry with a towel and blow dry the cape. Be sure to blow down into the feather bases
to get the plumulaceous barbs of the feathers dry.
F. Prior to storage, set aside to air dry at least overnight so that the skin is completely dry. (Within the first hours of
air drying, periodic stretching of the skin may be appropriate to avoid curling, or you may wish to tack the cape/
saddle skin side down to cardboard.)
Continued Pg. 8
Club Meeting Dates 2007
July 21-22 Lake Edison Area Trip
July 26 General Mtg.
August 23 General Mtg.
September 27 General Mtg.
Sept. 29-30 Upper Kings River Trip
October 20 Cedar Grove (Kings River
Classic hosted by Visalia Club)
October 25 General Mtg.
Nov. 9 Friday General Mtg.
Nov.17 San Luis Reservoir Outing
Dec 14 Friday General Mtg.
POSITIVE STOP Dan Busby
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
Sorting through the fifteen most common errors a fly caster makes. I think the inability to execute a
good positive stop on both the back cast and forward cast is the culprit.
The expertise of a fly caster can be judged by the way they execute the positive stop. It is the stop that
forms the correct narrow loop and makes the line role out front and back as you cast.
Without a good positive stop a person cannot become an expert caster. Having no previous muscle
memory of the stop makes it hard for most people to learn. Teaching a person to cast would be very easy if the
learned the positive stop quickly.
The best way for a beginner to learn is to go through the casting stroke over and over as if false casting,
without a line on the rod. Hold the rod with the wrist slightly bent back from the forearm and place the hand
about three (3) inches below the shoulder top. The forearm and biceps will form about a ninety (90) degree an-
This is the beginning position to start the back cast when false casting. Do not bend the wrist or elbow
while lifting. The bicep, forearm, wrist and hand work as a unit by rotating the shoulder joint. The hand will
travel up, a casting stroke of 45 Degrees. It should stop alongside the eye, the forearm will now be in a vertical
position. At the same time all this is happing come to a positive stop by tightening the muscles of the shoulder,
biceps forearm, wrist and hand, instantly relax the muscles then tighten them slightly to dampen the vibration.
The object of this is to stop movement of the rod handle, the part of the rod above the handle being the
stiffest will come to a stop and if there were a line on the rod a fast narrow rolling loop would be formed. The
line always follows the movement of the rod tip, the faster the tip moves so goes the line.
After the positive stop is made let the imaginary line straighten behind you, move the arm unit down-
ward by rotating the shoulder joint and return to the same position as when you started. Again tighten all the
muscles of the arm unit and make the rod butt come to a positive stop. The rod will unload forcing the tip to
accelerate and a nice loop will form.
Repeat this dry run over and over again you must develop the muscle memory of the casting stroke and
the positive stop. Now put the line on the rod. Make short casts until you have definite understanding of the
Remember to start the stroke slowly and accelerate to a positive stop. Now shoot a few feet of line and
work with that for a little while, continue adding distance a little at a time. The return too a short line and start
again. Practice, Practice. (Parts of this were gleaned from notes I took from a seminar by the great Jim Green
25 years ago.)
Page 8 Continued from page 6 Fresno, CA
Cleaning Material Continued
CLEANING CALF TAILS
A. Wash in hot tap water and dish washing liquid, as with any other material. Soak and agitate for about one hour,
then rinse thoroughly.
B. Repeat, but now with Woolite.
C. It might even be desirable to rinse with hair conditioner, followed by an additional warm water rinse.
D. Blot dry.
E. Using a standard pocket comb, comb through the tail in its natural direction to loosen any intertwined hair.
F. Dry with a blow dryer.
G. Follow up by combing again.
H. Set aside for a minimum of 24 hours to dry the skin completely before storing.
WASHING LOOSE FUR
A. Place the fur/hair blend into a jar that has the capacity to seal water-tight. Add some dish washing liquid and fill
with warm to hot tap water about 3/4 full. Close the jar and agitate vigorously. Let set 5 minutes, then repeat the
agitation. The degree of dirt in the blend will determine the number of repetitions of the agitation.
B. When thoroughly washed, pour out through a nylon stocking, fine mesh sieve, or fine mesh aquarium net.
C. Return the wet blend to the jar, add fresh warm water, agitate and drain as before. Repeat until agitation
produces no soap. (Note: It may be desired at this point to repeat the process with Woolite.)
D. Finally, drain, blot with paper towels, and spread material out a bit allowing it to air dry.
E. To return the now-possibly-clumped blend to a more workable state, drop it into a coffee mill or blender for a
quick "spin," or separate the clump with carding tools.
F. Store the blend in a Ziplock bag or other sealable container. (Updated: March 04)
GENERAL MEETING RAFFLES ARE GETTING A
NEW INFUSION OF MERCHANDISE, THANKS TO SOME OF OUR
Thanks to “SCOTT MACKAY” for donating a huge bag of fly fishing gear for our
monthly raffles. This is the second big bag of gear Scott has donated this year.
WE APPRECIATE YOUR GENEROSITY, SCOTT!!
FFFC welcomes any & all donations for our conservation fundraising efforts. The
FFFC is a 501(c)3 non-profit organization All donations & gifts are tax deductible
pursuant to the IRS rules governing charitable contributions. FFFC provides re-
ceipts for charitable contributions, on request. (See enclosed form)
FREE RAFFLE TICKETS IN JUNE
TO ALL FLY TYERS
At the June General Meeting, free raffle tickets will be given to anyone donating
flies for our raffle. Here’s how it works:
*Bring Three(3) FLIES and buy $5 worth of raffle tickets
-get a total of ten (10) raffle tickets.
Continued next page
Fly Dope Page 9
*Bring Six(6) FLIES and buy $10 worth of raffle tickets
-get a total of twenty (20) raffle tickets
*Bring Nine(9) FLIES and buy $15 worth of raffle tickets
-get a total of thirty (30) raffle tickets Fly Fishers for
*Bring Twelve(12) FLIES and buy $20 worth of raffle was organized in 1961
by a group of devoted
tickets Fly Fishers deeply con-
cerned with the preser-
vation of trout and all
B U L L E T I N B OA R D game fish, their envi-
ronment, and the
quality of fishing.
WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE LOWER KINGS Our club has main-
Since 1999, the Kings River Fisheries Management Program (Program) has been tained two goals since
working to restore the lower Kings River to the fishery it used to be. A history of this time:
the program as well as documents relative to the program’s beginning are to be
found at the web site run by the Public advisory group. The URL is: http://
To foster and promote
www.kingsriverfisheries.org. Not only can you read these documents, you can re-
port your success, or lack, on the lower Kings via the Anglers’ survey, get the latest
the sport of angling
reservoir levels, be a part of the ongoing discussions in the forum section and view with artificial flies
some pictures of the latest restoration efforts on the lower Kings.
To protect, conserve,
and increase our angling
Mammoth High School Fly Fishing Club is starting a fly tying class this Spring. Chris Leo-
nard our youth VP has told me that they have limited tools and material. The Club sold
Christmas Trees as a fund raiser to purchase needed things for the class. They raised
around $300.00, a good start!!; but that wont go very far. MHSFFC is the only youth
group that the Council has. I know that every tier out there has some old tools, or mate-
rial that they don't use. We all now what I am talking about, The bright lime dubbing the
dd #6 scud hook the scissors that don't fit your fingers, your first vice. This club of 15
eager students could use it.!!! Anyone , or Club wishing to donate can bring items to the
next Council meeting, or contact me and I will make arrangements to pick them up.
Wayne Thompson [email@example.com]
FFFC Membership Application
Regular Membership $36
Senior Membership $24
Name Fees are due February 1, each year. (over age 65)
Pro-Rate: Pay for months remain- Spousal Member $12
ing until January 30 including cur- Jr. Member $6
rent month at 1/12 annual rate. Lifetime Member $500
* Add initiation fee, $10.
Shoulder Patch $5
One newsletter per household.
CSUF Scholarship Donation
Make Check payable to FFFC. Initiation fee $_____10.00___________
Mail to 100 E. Sierra, PMB 3310, Fresno, CA 93710
Office use only: Amount__________ Check/Cash________ Date________ Input________ Initial____________
FLY FISHERS FOR CONSERVATION Periodical
100 E. Sierra, PMB 3310 US
Fresno, CA 93710 Postage
Paid at Fresno,
FLY DOPE (USPS 483-110) IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY AT $18.00 PER YEAR BY THE FLY FISHERS FOR CONSERVATION, INC.
POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FFC, 100 E. SIERRA, PMB 3310, FRESNO, CA 93710
Fly Fishers For Conservation
Board Officers and Committee Members
Meetings held at:
Fresno Sportsman’s Club President/Editor Stephen Neal (415) 314-7690cell firstname.lastname@example.org
10645 N. Lanes Road 1st V.P./Secretary Jim Clark (559) 322-1685 email@example.com
Fresno, CA 93720 2nd V.P. /Treasurer Bob Papazian (559) 434-6544 firstname.lastname@example.org
Conservation Jayne Ferrante (559) 446-1505 email@example.com
4th Thursday of every Membership Sue Leveque (559) 297-1767 firstname.lastname@example.org
6 PM Skills Training Committee Chairs
7 PM Program Social Director Robert Stearns (599) 298-5253 email@example.com
Fly Casting Dan Busby (559) 433-1651 firstname.lastname@example.org
Rod Bldg./Web Page David Burris (559) 642-4190 email@example.com
Fly Tying Jerry Hopewell (559) 638-5282 firstname.lastname@example.org
Outings Jeff Trafican (559) 299-0591 email@example.com
Education Director Bill Bruce (559) 299-6615 firstname.lastname@example.org
Communication Scott West (559) 299-2845 email@example.com
Fair Mits Kozuki (559) 646-3020 no email
Director at Large Paul Prespare (559) 435-5347 firstname.lastname@example.org
Director at Large Roger Miller (559) 226-4351 email@example.com
Director at Large Frank Jones (559) 222-5864 firstname.lastname@example.org
McKenzie Cup Winner