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CAMPO DE’ FIORI & THE GHETTO                            focaccia), rolls, pizzas, tarts and cookies.
                                                        They’ll make a delicious snack if you’re
                                                        feeling peckish or need to have lunch on the
Bibliotèq                                               run.
                                                        Campo dei Fiori, 22 and Vicolo del Gallo, 14
Not a library, as the name implies, but a tea shop,
so cozy and inviting we start to smile as soon as
                                                        Josephine’s Bakery
we walk in the door, where we’re greeted by a sign
                                                        It seems almost incongruous that the thin
inviting clients to touch and to smell. The walls are   and beautiful owner, Josephine Scorer, a
covered with wooden shelves stocking more than          former English fashion model, should know
a hundred kinds of tea, as well as coffee,              how to bake such gorgeous and sinful cakes.
chocolate and spices.                                   She offers a range of seasonal specialties
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 124 tel. 06.45433114             impossible to find elsewhere in Rome, such
                                                        as American pecan and pumpkin pies,
Boccioni                                                English apple crumble, sticky buns and
This is the only place in Rome to find real Roman       scones. But her masterpieces are the artfully
Jewish baked goods. Get there early or order in         decorated cakes she creates for weddings
advance if you want a challah (twisted bread) for       and other special occasions.
your Friday Sabbath dinner. In additional to the        Piazza del Paradiso, 56/57 tel 06.687 1065
traditional bread, they make an amazing Roman
sweet challah with candied fruits. Also not to be       Tè e Teiere
missed, the ricotta or almond tortes, the honey         Tea pots, tea towels, tea cups, tea trays, tea
biscotti. Sometimes called the “burnt bakery” for       strainers, even tea leaves— it’s all here.
the sweet pizza ebraica that emerges from the           Many of the pots are Japanese or Chinese in
oven, but it’s just as it should be with crisped        style, but you’ll also find modern, quirky and
raisins, nuts and fruits. The bakery is housed in       vintage-look pots and cups. Behind the
the heart of the former ghetto on the ground floor      counter, stacks of drawers hold a wide
of a palazzo built by a wealthy merchant. If you        variety of teas. You’ll be offered a taste of the
look above the door, you can still the inscription in   featured blends of the day. And you can
which Manili proudly proclaims that “in the             choose to take home your selection in a
moment in which the city of Rome is being               colorful tin.
reborn, Lorenzo Manili, with love for his native        Via del Pellegrino, 85 tel. 06.6868824
land … in the year 1468 on July 22 at the age of
44 years three months and two days inscribed
this.                                                   TRASTEVERE &TESTACCIO
Via del Portico d’Ottavio, 1 tel. 06.687 8637
Closed Friday afternoon, Saturday and Sunday            Il Canestro
                                                        The neighborhood health food store, with a
La Dolceroma                                            small but adequate selection of fresh fruits
It’s easy to miss this little bakery, sandwiched        and vegetables, herbal teas, whole grain
                                                        cereals and pastas, soy products, dried fruits
between two restaurants, but its Austrian pastries
                                                        and nuts, baked goods, as well as beauty
are legendary. Besides the Sachertorte, there are       products and books.
chocolate chip cookies and brownies for homesick        Via San Francesco a Ripa 105 tel. 06.581
Americans.                                              2621
Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 20b tel. 06.689 2196         Also at: Via le Gorizia, 51 (Trieste)
                                                        Via Luca della Robbia, 12 (Testaccio).
Il Forno al Campo dei Fiori
In adjacent stores at one end of the piazza, the        Drogheria Innocenzi
Forno sells an aromatic selection of breads             For those who can’t live without the porridge,
(including Sicilian bread with sesame seeds, and        teas and biscuits of England or the Karo
Syrup, Bisquick and taco chips of America, this is      Italian and imported, such as Black Forest
the store where you’ll find the cure for food           ham and Spanish salami. You’ll also find a
homesickness. It's is crowded, as well, with sacks      range of teas and coffees, preserves, bottled
of beans and grains, nuts, dried fruits and spices      sauces, oils and vinegars.
as well as a huge and ever changing selection of        Piazza Testaccio, 35 tel. 06.572 50185
candies. Before you decide you can’t find it in
Rome, stop in here.                                     Passi
Piazza San Cosimato, 66 tel. 06.5812725 Mon-            You’ll find all the traditional Roman baked
Wed., Fri-Sat. 7 am-1:30 pm, 4:30-7:30 p.m.             goods here: pizza, foccaccio, rosetti frustine,
Closed Thursday and Sunday, as well as Saturday         as well as delicious cookies and tarts. Known
afternoons in summer months.                            for its wide selection and excellent quality.
                                                        Via Mastro Giorgio, 87 tel. 06.574 6563
Fabbrica di Cioccolato
A franchise of the Neapolitan line Dolce Idea,          Revendita di Ciccolato e Vino
you’ll find a variety of chocolates in charming         Opened just last year, this pretty little shop
shapes, with fillings such chestnut, ginger and         sells our favorite things: sweets and libations.
limoncello. Your selections can be nicely boxed for     The classical music and tranquil atmosphere
gift-giving, or, pop in to pick up an etto (about one   offer a welcome respite from the chaos of the
cup) bag of your favorites for immediate                bustling street and the chocolates, including
consumption.                                            the famed Leonidas brand from Belgium, are
Via San Francesco a Ripa, 27 tel. 06.583 34043          irresistible.
Closed Sunday afternoons and Monday mornings            Vicolo del Cinque, 11/a tel. 06.583 02868
                                                        Closed Monday. Open till midnight Friday
Ferrara Store                                           and Saturday.
This tiny shop attached to the large restaurant of
the same name, sells boutique label pasta, olive        Sacchetti
oil and jars of delicacies, biscuits, chocolates,       On warm mornings, the sidewalk tables of
coffees, teas, and wines.                               this neighborhood landmark are populated
Via del Moro 1 tel. 06.5833 3920 Open only in the       by local kibbitzers, young women with their
evenings from 8:30 pm                                   dogs and older women with their shopping
                                                        carts. The location is not as desirable as it
Il Fornaio                                              once was, now that the piazza has become a
Some of the best bread in Trastevere, as well as        construction site, but it’s still pleasant
breakfast treats and simple cakes. You can also         enough and the gelato is good. Take home a
find bufala mozzarella here, trucked in fresh daily     treat from among the wonderful bakery
from Caserta. Open Sunday mornings so you can           items, particularly the blanc mange chestnut
have freshly baked bread all week.                      torte, worth every calorie.
Via Natale del Grande, 4. tel. 06.6806408. Closed       Piazza San Cosimato, 61 tel. 06.581 5374
Sunday afternoons. Continuous hours.                    Open continuously 6am-11pm. Closed
Forno la Renella
A veritable Trastsevere institution, offering           I Supplì
wonderful breads, pizzas, biscotti and sweets, all      This tiny take-out place is jammed at
made on the premises. Open until 11:30 at night,        lunchtime and with good reason. You’d be
one in the morning during the summer months,            hard-pressed to find a better pizza al taglio
for late night snacks.                                  (by the slice). They also make a great roast
Via del Moro, 15 tel. 06 5817265                        chicken on the spit, lasagne, manicotti and
                                                        other baked pastas, as well as savory potato
Palombi                                                 crocchette and crispy supplí (breaded and
Testaccio’s largest enoteca, with a selection of        fried rice cakes).
wines from all over Italy, as well as an                Via San Francesco a Ripa, 137 tel. 06.589
extraordinary international selection of beers. The     7110
shop also sells imported specialty foods, including     Also at Piazza dei Re di Roma, 20 (Appia)
such hard to find staples as Skippy peanut butter,
Ocean Spray cranberry juice, and canned okra.           Sorelle Piras
The newly opened annex, La Fromagerie, offers a         Come in to watch the fresh pasta being
fine selection of cheeses and cured meats, both         expertly kneaded and rolled. It’s easy to base
a meal around one of the fresh egg pastas with           beckon you to come inside.
various condiments sold in the same shop. Try the        Via Maddalena 14
wonderful ravioli with a variety of seasonal
stuffings.                                               Antica Salumeria
Via del Moro, 32                                         A sign made of carved wooden letters
                                                         announces this narrow shop facing the
Valzani                                                  Pantheon. It’s full of colored pastas, cheeses
This historic bakery is famous for its Austrian          and cured meats. Stop in to pick up a cookie
Sacher torte and for its typical Roman cakes and         or pastry or ask them to make you a
candies, all produced on the premises. Try the           sandwich.
surprising hot-pepper chocolates “al diavoletti,”        Piazza della Rotonda 5
candied orange peel, and at Christmas, the
traditional pangiallo and panpepato. If you’re           Enoteca di Sardegna Pigna
lucky, Mamma Valzani herself will help with your         In addition to the selection of good Sardinian
purchases. In his film, Bianca, Nanni Morretti can       wines and mirto (a berry liqueur), Stefano
be seen staring longingly into the shop’s window.        Anzalotta sells a variety of packaged
We understand. The aroma of chocolate stops us           Sardinian specialties, as well as fresh seadas
dead in our tracks whenever we walk by.                  (puff pastries filled with pecorino cheese
Via del Moro, 37b tel. 06.580 3792 Closed                topped with nuts and honey) casu breads,
Tuesday and during the month of August.                  cheeses, hams and sausages. Ask him to
                                                         make you a panino for a delicious quick
Emilio Volpetti & C.                                     lunch or snack.
A food lover’s paradise, this historic shop is           Via della Pigna 3a tel. 06.6789374
lavishly stocked with cheeses, meats, wines,
vinegars and olive oils from all over Italy. There are   Moriondo & Gariglio
breads and tarts, kitchen accessories and a              This wonderful chocolate factory has been
mouth-watering selection of prepared foods, such         producing artisan confections for more than
as the rice salads, crispy cheese suplí and pizzas.      a hundred years, when the family came to
Their gift boxes and baskets can be shipped              Rome in the wake of their patrons, the royal
anywhere in the EU. Around the corner, the               house of Savoy. The chocolates are
Volpetti brothers have opened a lunchtime tavola         expensive, but worth it. They are, in fact,
calda, a gourmet buffet in a working-class setting,      almost unbelievably good — 80 different
serving such delicacies as octopus salad, and            kinds of bon bons, chocolate truffles, fruit
cheese tarts as well as pizza.                           gels, glazed chestnuts, all beautiful formed.
Via Marmorata, 47                                        The atmosphere in the shop is all old
                                                         elegance. The staff behind the counter wears
PANTHEON TO PARLIAMENT                                   a sort of period costume complete with lace
                                                         head coverings.
                                                         On Valentine’s Day the shop still makes
Albero del Pane                                          chocolates enclosed in a heart-shaped box
In addition to all the usual teas and food               replicating those made to celebrate the
supplements, natural cosmetics, grains and tofu          engagement of Maria José to King Umberto
this health food store has a wonderful bakery            of Savoia. If you are a dark choclate lover,
section selling some of the most delicious natural       don’t miss their 70% pure chocolates in
products in town. No white sugar or flour here, but      amusing shapes. And stop by at Easter to
a great selection of freshly baked breads and            take a look at their amazing holiday gifts.
pastries.                                                Via del Piè di Marmo, 21-22 tel. 06. 69 90
Via Santa Maria del Pianto, 19 (just off Via Arenula     856
near Largo Argentina) tel 06 686 5016

Angelo Feroci                                            MONTI
Who needs to cook when you can impress your
guests with gourmet take-away dishes you just            La Bottega del Cioccolata
need to pop in the oven like veal and spinach            Master chocolate maker Maurizio Proietti
croquettes, stuffed zucchini and crepes? The             learned his craft from his father, and he still
window, full of mouth-watering options, will             uses the same carefully annotated recipes.
                                                         In his shop you'll find all sorts of hand-made
chocolates as well as a variety of other candies      Via Quattro Fontane, 38 tel. 06 488 02435
and hard to find candied violets. Everything is       (near the Quirinale)
made on the premises. Closed for three months in      Closed Sunday
the summer. Since everything is fresh and nothing
is refrigerated, it's a necessity.                    Ercoli 1928
Via Leonina, 82 tel. 06 4821473                       A card in the window says it all: "A family
                                                      tradition since 1928. Specialty. Rarity.
Dolce e non Solo                                      Quality. Connosieurship." For the past forty
Just next door to some of the best chocolate in       years, Alessandro Massari and his counsin,
Rome, the guilt-free version. This shop stocks        Filippo Lanz,i have continued that tradition,
sugar-free chocolate, marmalades and jellies as       extending it to include both national and
well as liqueurs.                                     international products.
Via Leonina, 78                                       The offerings include a variety of caviars
                                                      from Iran, ham from Spain, which is cured
Gusto Italia                                          from Iberian hogs left to pasture freely in the
In this small but excellent gourmet shop, Angelo      forest feeding on acorns; foie gras, so
Biasi stocks pastas, breads, cheeses, baked           delicate it melts in your mouth; smoked fish
goods and wines, mostly from Tuscany and Sicily.      from around the globe; goose and pork
Specialties in season, such as truffles and porcini   salamis; and cheeses galore. The shop sells
mushrooms.                                            more than 300 types of cheeses from Italy
Via Leonina, 76 tel 06 478 23700                      and France. There’s even a limited supply of
                                                      white truffles when in season. The cantina
                                                      stocks French, Italian and Spanish wines,
                                                      champagnes, spumantis, dessert wines
Il Giardino del Tè                                    (sauternes, passiti, vendemmie tardive and
A lovely shop selling teas of all kinds —maté, a      Chateau d’Yqyem).
wide variety of green and black teas, tisanes and     Via Montello, 22-26 tel. 06. 372 0243 (Prati)
fruit teas —as well as all the accoutrements — tea    Open 7 am till 08:30 pm Closed Sunday
pots, cups, strainers and the like.
Via del Boschetto, 112 A tel 06 4746888               Franchi
                                                      When we want to impress out of town guests,
Delizie di Calabria                                   we bring them to Franchi so we can watch
Stocking Calabrese products from cured meats          their jaws drop. It’s one of Rome’s finest
and cheeses to breads, pastas and wines.              gourmet stores selling an array of national
Via dei Serpenti, 20/a                                and international food products — cheeses,
                                                      salamis, truffles, caviar, and wines. They also
PRATI AND THE NORTHSIDE                               do catering and gift packaging, and are
                                                      particularly known for their elaborate holiday
                                                      gift baskets.
Castroni                                              The front counter is filled with a staggering
These gourmet stores specialize in Italian food       selection of prepared foods. They can be
products and imports from around the world: Asia,     eaten on the premises, but it’s a better idea
Oceana, Africa, North and South America,              to have them packed for take-away because
Europe. Since 1932, Castroni has catered to the       the competition for space is so intense.
needs of Rome’s foreign communities. Here you         Via Cola di Rienza, 204 tel. 06. 687 4651
can find whatever’s missing in your cupboard          (Prati) Closed Sunday
from taco chips to cranberry juice, peanut butter
to canned pumpkin, saki to Chinese beer, mango
                                                      Salumeria Ricci 1910
juice to macademia nuts, rices, spices,
condiments, dried fruits, teas. Try their own         Street vendors selling fake Louis Vuitton bags
production of roasted coffee. Five locations          and sunglasses and hoping to catch the
throught the city, or order online at                 attention of well-heeled clients, add to the
www.castroni.com.                                     bustling and colorful scene that unfolds at
Via Cola di Rienzo, 196 tel.06. 687 4383 (Prati)      the threshold of this exclusive northside
Via Flaminia tel 06 361 1029 (Flaminia)               grocery. In the heart of Vigna Clara’s
Piazza della Balduina tel. 06. 354 96806              shopping district, its a gourmet deli selling
                                                      salamis, cheeses, breads, fresh and dried
Via Ottaviano, 55 tel. 06 397 23 279 (Prati)
pastas, pastry, olive oils, local and regional wines
and gourmet foods. A tradition since 1910, Ricci
is still a meeting place for area gourmets. The take
out menu includes a variety of freshly-prepared
foods, roasted chicken, sushi and sashimi. Home
delivery service is available.
Largo Via Stelluti, 9 tel. 06 329 1857 (Vigna Clara)

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