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					                                               The circuit
                                               Previewing
                                               catwalks in
                                               Auckland,
november 2004
                                               New York,
                                               San Francisco,
                                               Stockholm and
                                               Melbourne
      Helen
      Talbot
  The creative
spirit of the New
Zealand designer
                                                           The
 Brushing                                      Maldives
up on beauty                                    Six senses in
Good foundations
                                                 paradise

    That girl at                                Getting
   Ti\any’s                                    scent-sual
Lightly she goes                                New season,
                                                new scents
  Red hot                                         Tahiti
   From hair to                                  Win a trip
    accessories                                  in this issue
     and everything
       in between




                    true style                                                             11
                                                   NZ$9·45 incl. GST
                                                   ISSN 1175-7515




The global fashion magazine | www.lucire.com
http://lucire.com                                                                      1

                                                                       9   771175 751004
                                                                     Beauty
THIS MONTH




 For the                                                 Re-creation time
 sanctuary                                               The venue
                                                         Jean Jacques
                                                         Hair Design
                                                         Lambton House
                                                         160 Lambton




W
                                                         Quay
                                                         Wellington
                             elcome                      New Zealand
                             to the                      Telephone
                                                         64 4 499-9627
                            Lucire
                            Beauty de-
                           partment.
                            This
                         part of the
 magazine is reserved for a quiet
 moments so you can slip off your
 heels; put up your feet; and enjoy a lovely glass of
 your favourite beverage. Perhaps take us into your
 sanctuary of bubble-bath heaven where we intro-
 duce you to our glossy, powdered and pampered
 world.                                                  This month’s makeover for marketing
    This is the place where beauty is more than          manager Sarah Dickens took place at
 something to be hung up. Never taken too seri-
 ously because, let’s face it, it’s what’s on the        L’Oréal Professionnel salon Jean Jacques
 inside that really counts!                              Hair Design in Wellington, New Zealand,
    It’s the spot for having fun and a giggle; a re-     with the genius of Paris-trained Jean
 prieve from the demands of everyday life.               Jacques (right). Jack Yan profiles him
    We will be introducing you to talented, vibrant
 people in the beauty industry, some whose
                                                         photographed by Douglas Rimington




                                                         O
 names you may not recognize, but definitely
 known by beauty insiders! You will see tons of gor-
 geous products and treatments from within New                               ur makeover sub-          Jean Jacques, ‘that they know more than you.
 Zealand and abroad. Because we know that most                               ject, Sarah Dickens,         ‘In New Zealand, people are nice and they
 can’t afford a personal make-up artist or stylist, we                       called him a ‘mind-       appreciate you.’
 have found some of the top industry players in a                            reader’. It may not be       They certainly have. Jean Jacques claims
 variety of fields to give you their tips and tricks of                       the label Wellington,     the majority of his clients have come from
 the trade in real life (read usable) terms. We want                         New Zealand-based         referrals and despite not speaking much
 you to be your best: beautiful and gorgeous on the                          salon owner Jean          English when arriving in Wellington, managed
 inside and outside.                                     Jacques would give to himself, but he         to translate his customers’ wishes through sign
    So light your candles, get something to drink,       does believe that women have their own        language.
 maybe soak in a hot scented tub; and get ready          inner beauty which he tries to bring from        When tackling Sarah’s hair style, his pas-
 for some fun. Come play with the Lucire beauty          within.                                       sion for working with new clients and creating
 editors!                                                   Jean Jacques has had a life-long pas-      something novel emerged. ‘I get excited be-
                                                         sion for hair. At age 12, he was offered a    cause I want to see the final look. It is not just a
                                                         job at a salon, which he did after school.    job—there is excitement.’
                                                         He started at polytechnic at 16 and later        For the season, Jean Jacques predicts hair
                                                         trained in Paris. In his native Beirut, he    that is ‘more straight, silky, smooth; more [of-
                                                         had a salon for much of the 1990s.            ten] than curly. I can’t see curls coming back.’
                                                            But he did not feel he had travelled. In      He does believe his own style reflects his
                                                         1997, he felt it was time for a change and    personality: ‘I like the easy look. I’m more
                                                         had heard about New Zealand.                                              .
                                                                                                       towards the “casual chic” I love the fact a client
                                                            After a few years, he opened his own       can run her fingers through her hair without
                                                         business in Wellington, selling his salon     losing her style.’ He favours a softer look, rather
                                                         in Beirut.                                    than a spiky one. ‘My average client is over
                                                            Describing the New Zealand style,          40 [and likes] elegant, chic and soft.’ His team
                                                         Jean Jacques says it is ‘more European’.      help cover the spectrum of clients’ demands.
                                                         Seven years ago, Beirut styles were              Jean Jacques’ long-term partnership with
                                                         more casual but the clientèle more            L’Oréal Professionnel keeps the salon updated
 Stevie Wilson is beauty editor of Lucire.               demanding. They had a mentality, recalls      with the latest colours and techniques. •


 46                                                                                                                            lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
Before                                        After




JEAN JACQUES
               HAIR DESIGN




F
style intelligence.
                                              Sarah’s journey: a turning point
                                              When asked about my makeover with Lucire
                                              and Jean Jacques, one word pops into my
                                                                                                   and asked if I would be interested in doing a
                                                                                                   makeover. What better way to celebrate this
                                              head: extraordinary.                                 achievement and really make a new start?
                                                 First, I would like to express my gratitude to    Having said this, I was completely beside my-
                                              the Lucire team, especially to Jack Yan and          self with nerves and trepidation. Since I was
                                              Nicola Brockie, and to the wonderful Jean            14, my hair had never changed: I hid behind it
                                              Jacques whose talent is unsurpassed.                 in so many respects; it, to me, was my secu-
Getting Sarah’s look                             My journey began back in May 2003. My             rity blanket—long, blonde, left down to cover
                                              sister had a birthday party at a friend’s place      my face as much as possible.
Make-up by Lancôme                            where there was a spa pool. We girls had a               The day of the makeover arrived and
• Lancôme Mat Finish O3 Shine
Control Sheer Pressed Powder                  great night, pictures were taken and fun was         although I was very wary it became apparent
• Lancôme Color id Self-Adjusting             had. I was yet to realize that this night would      I had no need to be. The wonderful team at
Colour Weightless make-up (bottom right)      be a huge turning point in my life.                  Lucire and at Jean Jacques Hair Design did
• Lancôme Blush Focus in Lanawi (above           Once the pictures had been developed, I           everything they could to put me at ease. It felt
right)                                        got a short, sharp shock back to the land of         as if Jean Jacques had read my mind and got
• Lancôme Juicy Rouge in Guanaja lip          reality: I was huge! This is no understatement:      to work on my hair.
colour no. 140 (right)
                                              it would seem that what had been reflected in             A few hours later, I turned to look at my-
• Lancôme Hypnôse mascara
                                              the mirror each morning was a warped sense           self in the mirror. My eyes welled up when I
Hair by L’Oréal Professionnel                 of who I really was. I would tell myself that I      saw the reflection staring back at me: a new
• L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel, between      wasn’t big at all and it was just the way I was      woman was here, and she was more self-
6·3 + 6·34                                    built and carry on. Once a picture had been          confident and self-assured than the first. My
• Bath: Kérastase Oléo-Relax Hair Bath        taken there was no escaping the fact that my         insides reflected the way I looked, positive,
for Smoothing Dry and Rebellious Hair         weight had gone out of control.                      bright, bubbly and happy.
• Care: Kérastase Oléo-Relax Masque for
                                                 The next day, I joined Weight Watchers with           It is easy to get caught up in what we
Optimum Nutrition
• Hair cut, layered and textured all over,    my Mum and sister, who had already been              should look like, the ideals we see every day.
with the ends thinned, resulting in a         members for a few months. It was a daunting          It was Lucire who taught me that to bring
long, layered, textured look                  day, but a day I knew must happen. I hopped          the outside in closer to the inside was a true
• Kérastase Brume Nutri-Sculpt Flexible       on the scales and almost fell off at the result! I   representation of oneself and, once ac-
Hold Shine Mist for Dry and Sensitized Hair   was mortified I had let it get so bad and vowed       complished, a newfound confidence would
• Kérastase Lumière Nutri-Sculpt Lu-          that from now on, things would be different.         emerge that would carry you throughout your
minizing Film Crème
                                                 Slowly, but surely, the weight started to come    life both professional and personally.
Bill: nz$298 ($80 cut and blow-wave, $95      off. I found my close support network of friends         My advice is: look after yourself, your mind,
foils, $98 permanent colour, $25 treat-       and family, as well as weekly weigh-ins, were        body and soul, surround yourself with positive
ment. Will vary depending on length of        enough to make me stick to the programme.            people and let nothing get in the way of your
hair).                                           Seventeen kg later, Lucire approached me          dreams.—Sarah Dickens




http://lucire.com                                                                                                                                 47
BEAUTY INSIDER




Well red
Do you still think that blondes had more fun? Think again!
Redheads are not only turning heads, but turning others green
with envy by Ashlea Tate and Stevie Wilson




H
                ave you always dreamed of            Products
                being Gilligan’s Island’s favour-    Bilotti, who keeps soap opera’s leading red-
                ite redhead, Ginger? Wayne           heads Brier, Smith, and Archer fabulous, knows
                Bilotti, key hairstylist for the     which products work best for this titian trio.
                daytime hit drama One Life              ‘If your hair is professionally treated, Red-
                to Live, told Lucire everything      ken is great. They have an amazing line of
                you’ll need to know to make          Shades EQ (professional equalizing condi-
your red look ravishing.                             tioning colour gloss professional demi-perma-
                                                     nent haircolour),’ Bilotti suggested. If you’re a
                                                     do-it-yourself girl, Bilotti recommends Sexy
Shades                                               Hair Concepts.
 There are three levels of red, Bilotti explains,       ‘It leaves a nice shine without having to use
                                                                                                                                 clockwise
‘a red–gold base (strawberry blonde) à la ac-        a lot of products, which can create some hair                               from top:
 tress Kathy Brier (who plays Marcie Walsh);         problems,’ Bilotti explained. ‘Plus, it has a soy                           Famous
 a red–violet base (light auburn), sported by        leave-in conditioner—great for hair.’                                       redheads in
                                                                                                                                 The Hours:
 Hillary B. Smith (Nora Buchanan); and the              A long-term conditioner especially for colour-
                                                                                                                                 Nicole Kidman
 straight, fiery red base that’s Melissa Arch-        treated hair, glaze, is also a ‘must’ according                             and Julianne
 er’s (Natalie Vega) hair colour of choice.’         to Bilotti. Lasting four to five weeks, glaze will                           Moore. Sexy
    For more wow-power, think about highlights.      lock in your red hue, making the twinkle in your                            Hair Concepts’
                                                                                                                                 Big Sexy Hair
‘Using lighter tones around the face and darker      tresses last longer.                                                        line. Redken
 hues toward the back is a very popular style                                                                                    Shades EQ for
 that will also give your “do” greater dimension,’                                                                               conditioning.
 said hairstylist guru and ceo of Sexy Hair Con-                                                                                 Sexy Hair
                                                                                                                                 Concepts’ Big
 cepts, Michael O’Rourke.                                                                                                        Shine Hair Spray.



                         Hillary B. Smith                                              Melissa Archer    Kathy Brier




48                                                                                                                     lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                                                                                                                                                              notebook                   Extra




                                                                                                                                                       Red aftermath: maintaining                             Don’t forget the cut
                                                                                                                                                       your mane                                              Colour is influencing other parts of hair
                                                                                                                                                       You need to think about two things when you            majorly. In July, Lucire attended the L’Oréal
                                                                                                                                                       colour your hair: everyday care and long-term          Professionnel Colour Trophy Awards
                                                                                                                                                       care.                                                  in Auckland, New Zealand (as covered dur-
                                                                                                                                                                                                              ing August on our web site), where Burnet-
                                                                                                                                                        Everyday care                                         ta Haswell of Servilles Mission Bay
                                                                                                                                                        Use a gentle shampoo and wash just the roots.         took home the Supreme Award. Haswell’s
                                                                                                                                                        Try not to wash your hair every day. Shampoo-         principle was the cut and colour had to work
                                                                                                                                                        ing more frequently will out your hair.               with the outfit, approaching hair as part of a
                                                                                                                                                           Don’t forget protective products, especially       complete ensemble.
                                                                                                                                                        those containing a light silicone protein.               When Lucire covered this, we knew that
                                                                                                                                                          ‘This is especially important if you blow-dry       Haswell would win. Our online editorial page
                                                                                                                                                        or flat-iron your hair on a regular basis, which       put it down to looking at auras, but for those
                                                                                                                                                        can take a toll on your hair,’ O’Rourke explained.    who prefer a more down-to-earth explana-
                                                                                                                                                       ‘The right protective products will coat the hair to   tion, everything did go right for her: her
                                                                                                                                                        smooth and seal but won’t weigh hair down,’           complete approach, a stunning model and
                                                                                                                                                        O’Rourke said.                                        leading photography gave the entry enough
                                                                                                                                                                                                              extra pizazz to take home the trophy.
                                                                                                                                                        Long-term care                                           So it was expected that we kept our eye
                                                                                                                                                        Maintaining your colour and the overall health        on Servilles Hair a little more in the remain-
                                                                                                                                                        of your hair is important.                            der of the third quarter, and now the fourth.
                                                                                                                                                           ‘The cuticle gets roughed up in the second            The same company is taking its 3 De-
                                                                                                                                                        to third week,’ O’Rourke explained.                   grees collection to Italy to showcase it to
                                                                                                                                                           To minimize this problem, use a soy and            1,800 hairdressers from 20 countries. The
                                                                                                                                                        wheat protein which works from the exterior           collection emphasizes ‘a cut within a cut,’
                                                                                                                                                        to the interior, like Sexy Hair Concept’s Silky       according to the Servilles release, ‘with the
                                                                                                                                                        Treatment line.                                       colour being the influence for the second
                                                                                                                                                           ‘The product will penetrate the cuticle to         cut.’ Servilles is steadily expanding its inter-
ONE LIFE TO LIVE IMAGES: YOLANDA PEREZ/ABC; RESPECTIVE MANUFACTURERS AND PR COMPANIES




                                                                                                                                                        close it, preventing oxidation, which causes          national education programme and leading
                                                                                                                                                        red colour treatment to fade,’ O’Rourke said.         the way in hairdressing.
                                                                                                                                                       ‘Plus, it reseals and remoisturizes the hair,             The year has also brought Servilles a
                                                                                        top: Wayne Bilotti, One Life to Live’s executive hairstylist    increasing the lifespan of the hair colour.’          Global Salon Business award, numerous
                                                                                        Laurie Cacioli and actress Bree Williamson (who plays
                                                                                        Jessica Buchanan). group image above: Marc
                                                                                                                                                           If you notice a little fading, touch up roots      other hairdressing awards including the
                                                                                        Anthony Hair Care Rich Reds collection. above left:             with a permanent colour and then use a semi-          Salon Team award and Young Colourist of
                                                                                        More products from Michael O’Rourke: his Fresh                  permanent colour for the rest of the hair, which      the Year, as well as being a finalist in the
                                                                                        Concepts Vitalitea moisture conditioner. above centre:          will also help with the appearance of fading.         Redken–The Face New Zealand and winning
                                                                                        Fresh Concepts Rejuicinate moisture shampoo. above
                                                                                        right: Michael O’Rourke’s Sexy Hair Concepts’ Soy Tri-             And don’t forget to have your hair trimmed         the Schwarzkopf Salon of the year award.
                                                                                        Wheat leave-in conditioner.                                     often to prevent split ends and keep your col-           Servilles celebrates its 20th year in busi-
                                                                                                                                                        our-treated hair looking and feeling its best. •      ness with a New Zealand Runway show on
                                                                                                                                                                                                              October 22 in Auckland. It promises that ‘it
                                                                                                                                                                                                              will be a show like no other’.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Visit Servilles at www.servilles.co.nz. •




                                                                                        Ashlea Tate is a Los Angeles-based correspondent for Lucire.
                                                                                        Stevie Wilson is beauty editor of Lucire.


                                                                                        http://lucire.com                                                                                                                                                  49
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           49
                                                                      BEAUTY NOW



                                                                      Making
                                                                      scents
                                                                      Finding and choosing the right fragrance can be like
                                                                      finding a needle in a haystack. Here’s the best for the
                                                                      changing season by Stevie Wilson




                                                                    I
                                                                          n the northern hemisphere, fall is a time of change. With the chang-
                                                                          ing seasons come slightly cooler temperatures (despite the lack of seasonal
                                                                          transition seen in the rest of the country); children going back to school, and
                                                                          impending holidays looming large on the calendar.
                                                                             In the southern half, spring has sprung, also with a lighter temperament.
                                                                             So now is a great time to test drive some new fragrances for yourself and
                                                                          for holiday gift-giving (if you shop that far ahead).
                                                                         The dilemma is what to buy? What—from the dizzying array of 2004 fragrance
                                                                      launches—to choose? Where to find something that is so unmistakably “you”?
                                                                         There are two ways to go: first, the larger brands (Estée Lauder, Lancôme,
                                                                      Chanel and Elizabeth Arden) have lots of scents to try.




Moschino                                                                                                   Very Sexy for Her²
Moschino has created super new fragrance that’s sure to turn a lot of                                          Very Sexy for Her² is a provocative
heads. Moschino Couture is for the woman with wit, panache and                                                 fragrance from Victoria’s Secret. This
confidence in her abilities and her presence. Vibrant and exuberant, it is a                                    isn’t for the shy ones, but for those who
lively fragrance that is both fruity with lush floral blossoms with a dry-down                                  are comfortable in their own skin and not
of woods, amber and vanilla that definitely underscore the sexiness of the                                      afraid to show it. This is a sensual blend
female!                                                                                                        of blackberry, white flowers along with
                                                                                                               black plum, patchouli and other unusual
Notes                                                                                                          accords. Great body products, and don’t
 Top: bergamot, pepper, mandarin.                                                                              forget Very Sexy for Him² which blends
 Heart: poppy seeds, jasmine, pomegranate flower and peony.                                                    quite nicely for a “his and her” coordinat-
 Base: benzoin, vanilla, cedar wood.                                                                          ing duo. Sleek packaging is done in pink
                                                                                                              for her, and blue for him!

                               Armani Mania                                                                   Notes
                               ‘The essence of radiance’ is the tag line on                                       Top: blackberry, freesia, peony, Casa-
                                this fragrance. Clean packaging echoes                                        blanca lily.
                                the simplicity of the Armani line yet                                             Bottom: skin suede, white patchouli,
                                the fragrance underscores the complex                                       black plum.
                                design elements. It’s essentially a woody,
                                aromatic floral that is a blend of intense
                                androgynous notes that present a warm           Ralph Lauren
                                yet clean top note blend blossoming into
                                voluptuous, fresh white flowers that intro-      Glamourous
                                                                                                                                                              RALPH LAUREN: DOUGLAS RIMINGTON; RESPECTIVE BRANDS AND PR COMPANIES




                                duce hints of powder and wood and are           Daylight
                                supported by a base blend of woods, am-         This new fragrance from
                                bers, and musks. Rich, lively and definitely     Ralph Lauren is a lighter
                                for a woman who knows her strengths             version of the original Glam-
                                and isn’t afraid to show them off.              ourous eau de parfum. The
                                                                                five signature notes include
                               Notes                                            dewy pearl flower, Leona pul-
                                 Top: Moroccan laurel, Sicilian green           meris, Casablanca lily, exotic
                               mandarin zest, blackcurrant fruit, pink          Siam wood and Cashmere
                               pepper Heart: magnolia, peony, lily of the       musk—the perfect scent for
                               valley and Provencal iris.                       daytime glamour.
                                 Base: Virginia cedar, creamy sandal-
                               wood, amber, vanilla and white musk.




50                                                                                                                              lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                             Prada
                                                                             Prada fragrance is an entirely new
                                                                             way of wearing Prada. Created by
                                                                             Miuccia Prada marrying the tra-
                                                                             ditional Prada values of tradition
                                                                             and quality with innovation and
                                                                             technology, this subtle fragrance
                                                                             is classically feminine with a
                                                                             modern approach. Rooted in am-
                                                                             ber, the fragrance is definitely a
                                                                             marriage of traditional with mod-
                                                                             ern. Created on four elements:
                                                                             Pure (sandalwood oil); Addictive
                                                                             (patchouli); Precious (Labdanum
                                                                             resin) and Profound (Benzoin from
                                                                             Siam). The fragrance is spicy, redolent of amber and
                                                                             vanilla like scents while giving off a soft woody aroma.
                                                                             The collection includes eau de parfum and spray eau de
                                                                             parfum, bath and body products plus a more intense
                                                                             eau de parfum all packaged in a powder pink box with
                                                                             champagne label with prune logo. Definitely catch this
                                                                             one while you can.

                                                                             Notes
                                                                                Top: Italian bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, Sicilian
                                                                             mandarin oil, Mimosa absolute.
                                                                                Middle: rose absolute, Schimus Molle absolute (South
Christian Dior Pure Poison                                                   American pink peppercorns), Indonesian Patchouli oil.
This fragrance is all about ‘the seductress                                     Base: labdanum resinoide, Tonka bean absolute, va-
within; where seduction is instinctual, positive                             nilla absolute, Indian Sandalwood oil, Benzoin resinoide
yet intense and mysterious’. Echoing previ-                                  from Siam.
ous Poison fragrances, this apple-shaped
bottle with an iridescent white swirl flashes
vivid colours. It’s a fragrance with an intense     ‘Glamour is in many ways
opening, then blossoms into rich white floral
enhanced with ambers and musk as the base             indefinable—it is more
for a vibrant, luminous, seductive scent. This
fragrance includes body products, too.
                                                     of a feeling, an aura. It’s
                                                    the way someone moves,
Notes
  Top: sweet orange, Calabrian bergamot,
                                                        styles their clothes,
Sicilian mandarin.                                   shares their personality.’
  Heart: orange flower, jasmine sambac lmr,                         Ralph Lauren
hydroponic living gardenia.
  Base: sandalwood, white amber, musk.


                                   Emanuel Ungaro
                                   Emanuel Ungaro has done something extraordi-
                                   nary. Very different from previous fragrance launches,
                                   Apparition creates a new category in fragrance.
                                   The concept is about a brief—yet astonishing—trans-                   Curious by Britney Spears
                                   formation of a woman; the metamorphosis of an                         Curious by Britney Spears is a launch
                                  “ordinary” person into a woman of great magnetism,                     partnering fragrance giant, Elizabeth
                                   femininity, and desirable. Flirty and engaging, this                  Arden and pop star Spears in her first foray
                                   fragrance embraces a woman.                                           into the beauty field. Fresh and distinctly
                                      The opening notes give an exhilarating rush while                  feminine, this white floral centred with
                                   the heart is tropical, fruity and floral for an utterly                Louisiana magnolia blends in other white
                                   feminine feel that is most entrancing. Supported by                   flowers, woods and musks along with a
                                   patchouli for an exotic feel and heliotrope for a more                sprinkling of sparkling pink notes and fruit.
                                   sensual feel, this is a fragrance that has to be expe-                Cool body products add to the cachet.
                                   rienced. The bottle is a flaçon of glass that has been
                                   stamped with 24k gold that has been tinted into gold,                 Notes
                                   violet and green mirror facets on the front creating                     Top: Louisiana magnolia, Anjou pear,
                                   a shimmering burst of colour. It definitely leaves an                  lotus flower.
                                   impression. The collection includes bath and body                        Heart: tuberose, star jasmine, pink cycla-
                                   products as well.                                                     men.
                                                                                                            Base: vanilla musk, creamy sandalwood,
                                   Notes                                                                 blonde woods.
                                    Top: raspberry liqueur, cayenne pepper.
                                    Heart: passionflower, “Double Delight” rose.
                                    Base: patchouli, heliotrope.


http://lucire.com                                                                                                                                   51
BEAUTY NOW



                                                    The latest trend is seen in
                                                    brands taking a popular fra-
                                                    grance and tweaking them a
                                                    bit with new notes (ingredi-
                                                    ents) to make them smell a lit-
                                                    tle different but keep the fra-
                                                    grance thematically the same.


                                                    Fresh                                                   Blush Marc Jacobs
                                                    Fresh is the well known brand of cosmetics,             Blush Marc Jacobs is another twist on
                                                    bath and body products. Well known for the              the fragrance theme. As soft as a blush when
                                                    Index line, Fresh has launched fragrances               one is complimented, a pink hue with the
                                                    based on sugar which is a strong scent in their         warm sweetness of jasmine in a bottle that,
                                                    bath and body line: Sugar, Sugar Blossom                too, is a blush colour yet is more romantic in
                                                    and now Lemon Sugar Eau de Parfum. It was               tone, luminous in feel. Opening with a soft
                                                    predicated on the Lemon SugarBath col-                  jasmine petal wet with dew, Blush blossoms
Michael Kors Sensual Suede                          lection that is so popular. This new sweet-tart         into creamy star jasmine with silken Japanese
Michael Kors is known for changing his              fragrance has lemon, sugar and a sparkling              honeysuckle grounded with soft musks and
base fragrance presentation by adding ad-           texture yet has some substance in the dry-              woods to create a delicate balance. The pack-
ditional fragrances and notes to create different   down. Its freshness makes it a perfect every-           aging so gloriously feminine with the pink tint
variations. His newest creation is the Michael      day fragrance. Pack-                                    and wonderful curves in the perfume and eau
Kors Sensual Suede Collection. This hot             aging is clean and                                      de parfum, but Jacobs continues the collec-
new line is the same intense tuberose floral         fits in nicely with the                                  tion with both bath and body products. First
with the addition of micronized ultrasuede to       Lemon SugarBath                                         Blush Marc Jacobs limited edition colour
give a luxe feeling of being wrapped in suede.      collection products.                                    collection includes gloss, mascara, powder
Sensual Suede Shimmering Body Pow-                                                                          and eau de parfum rollerball all neatly pack-
der is a luxurious, silky body powder with          Notes                                                   aged in a metallic silver bag.
both a suede and shimmer effect to envelope           Top: Italian lemon,
the body with a glorious fragrance. Sensual         yuzu, mandarin.                                         Notes
Suede Body Moisturizer is a sleek lo-                 Heart: lychee                                          Top: dewy jasmine petals.
tion that feels like velvet. Sensual Suede          flower, orange blos-                                      Heart: star jasmine, Japanese honeysuckle.
Solid Perfume is a soft richly scented solid        som, ginger flower.                                       Base: woods, musk.
fragrance in a sleek silver and Lucite compact.       Base: oak moss,
One word describes this collection: sexy!           caramel, white santal.




Southern scents
There are a few more scents we at                        Elizabeth Arden
Lucire wish to point out: those that                     Provocative Woman
seem more suited to a southern                           Want to melt your man? Try this sexy new
sensibility for spring                                   fragrance from Elizabeth Arden. De-
by Nicola Brockie                                        signed to appeal to a woman comfortable in
                                                         her own skin who is impulsive and seduc-
                                                         tive, and looking for a fragrance to reflect
                                                         that. If you like oriental scents, you will love
                                                         Provocative Woman which is structured
                                                         around exotic and unusual ingredients such
                                                         as water lotus, ginger, lily, papaya blossom,
                                                         pink freesia, midnight orchid and red amber.
                                                             Catherine Zeta-Jones, the inspiration and
                                                         spokesperson for Elizabeth Arden, calls this
                                                         scent ‘sensual and seductive’, which indeed
                                                         it is. With a stunning bottle inspired by the
                                                         curve of a woman’s back, this new scent
                                                         is sexy inside and out—a fantastic finishing
                                                         touch for your sexy new season look and
                                                         feel.




52                                                                                                                                 lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                      Boutique-type fragrances aren’t necessarily sold in boutiques
                                                                      but are small lines that present a different, more individual
                                                                      vision of a fragrance. From concept to finished product, the
                                                                      boutique or niche fragrance is often more difficult to find, but
                                                                      in the same respect —once an appropriate scent is found—is
                                                                      more unique a fragrance for the person wearing it. It becomes
                                                                      a reflection and signature of the person who has selected it as
                                                                      well as something you won’t smell on everyone.


                                                                      Comptoir Sud Pacifique
                                                                      Comptoir Sud Pacifique is perfectly suited for a Florida
                                                                      lifestyle. The tropical fragrances are often called an “eaux de
                                                                                .
                                                                      voyage” With the tropical weather and resort lifestyle of Florida,
                                                                      Comptoir Sud Pacifique provides a collection of fragrances that is
                                                                      at the heart of an exotic lifestyle. Wearing one of the fragrances is
                                                                      like taking a vacation. Most known for their exotic vanilla blends                                  Bond No. 9
                                                                      (Vanille Abricot, Vanille Ambre, Vanille Coco, Vanille Banane),                                     Bond No. 9 New York is a hot specialty
                                                                      Comptoir Sud Pacifique has an array of other fragrances that                                         brand making beautiful fragrances with a light-
                                                                      are fragrant trips to tropical spots. Cœur de Vahine (from the                                      hearted touch with serious devotees across
                                                                      Tropical Garden group) is a newer fragrance that is a sparkling, ef-                                the country. The entire theme of the collection
                                                                      fervescent scent concocted with peach, passion fruit mixed with                                     is to capture the essence of New York and its
                                                                      a little orange and blended with floral notes of jasmine, rose and                                   neighbourhoods in a fragrance. This collection
                                                                      Tahitian flowers built on a base of vanilla and musk. It transports                                  of 19 fragrances has something for nearly eve-
                                                                      you to new places where you are carefree and fun-loving: think of                                   ry neighbourhood including Broadway, Harlem,
                                                                      it as a modern-day evocation of the Garden of Eden and you won’t                                    Noho, Soho and more. The newest is Little
                                                                      be too far off the mark. Rich, heady, sexy and exotic, it’s paradise                                Italy, a smooth, zesty fragrance opening with
                                                                      found in a bottle. Sleek brushed aluminium packaging makes it                                       citrus notes that segue into a creamy gelato-
                                                                      easy to travel with plus it helps preserve the potency of the fragrance.                            like texture with an uplifting feel, yet has a very
                                                                                                                                                                          sensuous texture. If you are a transplanted
                                                                      Notes                                                                                               New Yorker, this is your way of visiting without
                                                                       Top: orange, bergamot, peach, passionfruit.                                                        the expense or travel; if you have never been,
                                                                       Heart: cinnamon, rose jasmine, Opuhi flower from Tahiti.                                            think of it as an olfactory trip to the Big Apple.
                                                                       Base: sandalwood, vanilla, musk.
                                                                                                                                                                           Notes
                                                                                                                                                                            Top: Clementine, grapefruit, mandarin.
                                                                                                                                                                            Heart: tangerine, jasmine.
                                                                                                                                                                            Base: sheer musk.            continued on p. 115




                                                                      Ralph Lauren eau de toilette                                                   Lancôme Calypso
                                                                      This colorful, floral fragrance from Ralph Lauren captures the energy, spirit   A fresh and sparkling summer-
                                                                      and personality of today’s young woman with a gorgeously fruity, floral fra-    time perfume in a limited
                                                                      grance: sparkling green apple leaves, zesty orange mandarin, charismatic       edition.
                                                                      pink magnolia, seductive purple freesia and soft blue musk.                        To truly capture the scents
                                                                                                                                                     of paradise on earth, it is
                                                                                                                               Blend: Floral.        fresh—like nature in its most
                                                                                                                               Notes: apple tree     pure sense—yet sensual, like
                                                                                                                            leaves, yellow free-     an exotic woman. At the source
                                                                                                                            sia, Italian mandarin,   of this original and voluptuous
                                                                                                                            Japanese loquat,
RALPH LAUREN: DOUGLAS RIMINGTON; RESPECTIVE BRANDS AND PR COMPANIES




                                                                                                                                                     fount of well-being is a cocktail
                                                                                                                            osmanthus, magnolia,     of fruits and flowers from a
                                                                                                                            linden blossom flower,    dreamy paradise—a veritable
                                                                                                                            purple freesia, boro-    archipelago of scents to wear.
                                                                                                                            nia, musk 2000, white        And to contain this magic
                                                                                                                            orris.                   potion, the Calypso bottle has
                                                                                                                               Style: a colourful    been bathed in the hues of a
                                                                                                                            floral expression.        setting sun, soaked in turquoise
                                                                                                                                                     blue and flamboyant orange, it
                                                                                                                                                     is like an irresistible foretaste of
                                                                                                                                                     escape post-winter and head-
                                                                                                                                                     ing into spring.




                                                                      http://lucire.com                                                                                                                                   53
BEAUTY FEATURE




Entering a Blue period
What makes Ralph Lauren Blue, the new fragrance, tick?
Catherine Rigod finds out from the source: Ralph Lauren
Fragrances’ president, Andrea Robinson




T
               he epitome of casual elegance. That’s the message Ralph            Romance, Romance Men, Ralph and Ralph Cool, Purple Label, Ralph
        Lauren has always strived to convey in every aspect of his company.       Lauren Blue and Polo Ralph Lauren Blue, and Glamourous.
        Today, he has captured a calming yet persuasive allure in his line of                                                                  .
                                                                                     Traditionally, the term “blue” meant “down in the dumps” A forlorn Pablo
        fragrances, bringing an entirely new feel of beauty to his clients.       Picasso depicted people painted in shades of blue to evoke feelings of
           Lucire recently spoke to Andrea Robinson, president of Ralph           sadness and alienation. However, in today’s modern and vibrant society,
        Lauren Fragrances. The latest release, Ralph Lauren Blue, has a           the colour blue represents a sense of calm and easiness in life, a peaceful,
        certain energy and beauty—but is still clearly part of the Ralph Lauren   renewed self that Picasso did not envision in the early 1900s.
Fragrances’ range.                                                                   Robinson says, ‘Through our research we learned that blue is the most
   Robinson began her professional career in the fashion and beauty               popular colour in the world. It has a very powerful effect and makes us
editorial world before moving to Ralph Lauren, where the fragrance game           thinks of so many things surrounding us like the blue sky and blue water.’
became her new passion.                                                           Through this powerful emotional and psychological observation, Blue works
   Robinson explains, ‘When I joined Ralph Lauren, I learned about the            on an essence of olfaction, combined with a purity of spirit, to be trapped
development process very quickly. We have an in-house “nose” and work             in a bottle.
very closely with the fragrance houses.’                                             As an offshoot of the women’s clothing line of the same name, the colour
   There has been plenty of consideration of what the Ralph Lauren brand          blue evokes a certain spirit which is strong yet feminine.
means from the beginning. Although the fragrance team has a lot of                   It is not to be confused with—but, rather, tied into—Ralph Lauren’s men’s
freedom, Ralph Lauren himself works closely with it. His visual cues in his       line, Blue for women is meant to walk hand-in-hand with the men’s scent.
designs are translated into scents.                                               At the same time, it is strong enough to stand on its own. With Blue’s aim
   Among that development process is the examination of trends. ‘When             at women in the age range of 20 to 49, Ralph Lauren hopes to entice the
we develop a fragrance concept, we spend a lot time researching what is           woman who is ‘modern, confident, self-assured, independent, healthy
going one around us—culturally. With the launch of Ralph Lauren Blue we           and casually elegant, with her own sense of style,’ says Robinson.
discovered certain trends that tied in perfectly with the fragrance concept.          Categorized as a cool fresh floral, ‘Blue is the fragrance of the classic
   ‘First was women’s desire for casual elegance not only in what they wear,      woman of today,’ Robinson states. ’By utilizing some of the earth’s most
                                                                                                       tempting and soothing elements—such as lotus flower,
     Perhaps the most important trend is the need for                                                  pink peony, jasmine, rose de mai, sandalwood, vetiver,
                                                                                                       mousse de chine and musk—Blue produces a pleasant
      escapism, the retreat that symbolizes freedom,                                                   and memorable bouquet.’
                                                                                                        Though scent may be the first of our senses to be
                          pleasure and personal time                                                   alerted, other senses were not neglected in the design
                                                                                                       and development of the fragrance. A watery, deep blue
but also through their attitude. Second was the trend toward simplicity, a        bottle with a silver cap represents the beauty of a blue-sky day and the
renewed focus on simple pleasures. But perhaps the most important trend           silvery reflection off of sun-kissed waters. White script contrasts with the
is the need for escapism, the retreat that symbolizes freedom, pleasure           deep blue colour and the signature monogrammed on the bottle’s lid. The
and personal time.’                                                               carton follows a similar design philosophy.
   Perhaps that is no surprise to trend-watchers who have found many                 Blue hopes to attract women’s eyes with the familiarity of the Ralph
catwalk collections quite retro-oriented in seasons past and, as indicated        Lauren logo, inscribed on the cap to add an element of sophistication,’
in this issue of Lucire, in the next season, too.                                 describes Robinson.
   Both the name and the fragrance emerged at the same time, according               It’s taken 18 months to bring this new yet classic fragrance to the ap-
to Robinson.                                                                      preciative hands—and pulse points—of Ralph Lauren’s faithful clientèle.
   She has worked on the development of such Ralph Lauren brands as               The wait for Blue is over. Relax. •
                                                                                                                                                                  COURTESY L’ORÉAL PARIS




54                                                                                                                                  lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
above: Andrea Robinson, worldwide president of Ralph Lauren Fragrances.




http://lucire.com                                                         55
BEAUTY FEATURE




A beautiful life
Grace Willetts and Stevie Wilson look back at one of the
geniuses of make-up, Kevyn Aucoin, who passed before
his time in 2002, and interview his successor, Eric Sakas
Based in the San Francisco Bay Area, Grace Willetts is a correspondent for Lucire. Stevie WIlson is beauty editor.




W
                              hen Kevyn Aucoin                In The Art of Makeup, Aucoin details death                 Kevyn’s two greatest influences were his
                             passed away in 2002              threats, beatings and even an arrest for the           mother, Thelma, and Barbra Streisand. From
                            from complications of            “crime” of wearing purple pants. Aucoin moved           Thelma he gained the strength to follow his
                           a lifelong pituitary condi-        first to the city of Baton Rouge in search of a         dreams and fulfill his great gift. Sadly, she died
                          tion, he was mourned                more hospitable environment. He finally left            shortly after her son, in October 2002. From
                         not only as one of the               Louisiana altogether after being stripped and          Streisand, he formed the foundation of his
                        great make-up geniuses                beaten by a department store security officer           vision: that beauty need not be conventional,
of his time, but as someone who brought                                                                              stereotypical or prefabricated. Aucoin had
beauty into the everyday lives of countless                                                                          already learned the power of reinvention from
women.                                                                                                               his sisters; Streisand taught him the power of
   For years before his death at the age of                                                                          individuality. He credited her with helping him
40, it had been nearly impossible to book the                                                                        survive his difficult years in Louisiana. As he
celebrity make-up artist to such famous faces                                                                        said in The Art of Makeup, ‘She believed in
as Gwyneth Paltrow, Tori Amos and Cher.                                                                              herself despite the fact that she was uncon-
   Aucoin became even more well known                                                                                ventional. I saw in her my desire to accept my
                                                                        above: Kevyn Aucoin powder brush.
through his best-selling books. In Making                                                                            own individuality.’ He eventually fulfilled his
                                                                        top right: The Creamy Moist Glow
Faces, The Art of Makeup and Face Forward,                              in Liquifuschia. beneath text: The           lifelong dream of meeting and working with
he shared many of his make-up secrets, allow-                          Sensual Skin Enhancer. below left:            the famous songstress.
ing readers to experience the transforming                             The Liquid Cyber Lip in Alurabliss Blue.          William Norwich, who co-authored The Art
                                                                        below right: Kevyn Aucoin Expert Lip
magic of make-up—without an appointment!                                          Tint in Principessa.
                                                                                                                     of Makeup, wrote that Aucoin saw his work
Though his monthly column in Allure neces-                                                                           with famous faces as allowing him to ‘pledge
sarily ended with his death, his self-named line                                                                     his life’s work 24 hours a day to the leading
of beauty products lives on.                                                                                         ladies who [gave] him so much …’
   He was born in Louisiana on Valentine’s                                                                               Eric Sakas, president and creative director
Day 1962 and was adopted a month later by                                                                            of Kevyn Aucoin Beauty, worked with Kevyn
Thelma and Isidore Aucoin. The first of four                                                                          on the line as his partner. Sakas produced a
adopted children, the budding make-up artist                                                                         touching tribute to Aucoin titled A Beautiful
and his family lived in Lafayette, deep in Cajun                                                                     Life and is now a major force behind the Kevyn
country, an unfriendly environment for a young                 when he was ‘caught’ looking at make-up.              Aucoin Beauty line in its current incarnation.
gay man.                                                          Arriving in New York aged 21, Aucoin got his       He sums up the line’s current focus as having
   Aucoin’s intense fascination with make-up                   professional break by doing test make-up for          a ‘“less is more” philosophy—use as little prod-
began early. He even resorted to shoplifting                   models. He was quickly discovered by Vogue            uct as possible to get the maximum results.’
film and cosmetics which he used to transform                   and photographer Steven Meisel, with whom             The product line features the basics touted
his sisters into sirens for home-made model                    he worked closely for nearly a year and a half.       by Aucoin throughout his career, such as lip
shoots. Thanks to the nurturing and unflagging                  Over the next few years Aucoin did 18 covers          glosses, mascara and a blessedly natural skin-
support of his mother, Thelma, Aucoin’s inter-                 for Vogue. By 1988, he’d done nine consecu-           enhancing foundation.
est survived the often-brutal scrutiny of locals.              tive covers and branched out to Cosmopolitan.




56                                                                                                                                          lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                                                     ‘Today I
                                                                                                      see beauty
                                                                                                      everywhere
                                                                                                      I go, in every   top left and far left: Elizabeth Hurley and
                                                                                                                       Madonna were among Aucoin’s celebrity clientèle, and
                                                                                                      face I see, in   appeared in his book Face Forward in 2000. left: Kevyn
                                                                                                                       Aucoin Liquid Patent Lip in Nyalia. right: Aucoin’s
                                                                                                      every single     books, Making Faces (Little Brown 1999, US$13·97
                                                                                                                       at Amazon.com via the Lucire Shopping Guide), Face
                                                                                                      soul, and        Forward (Little Brown 2000, US$23·06) and The Art of
                                                                                                                       Makeup (Perennial 1996) have become best sellers in
                                                                                                      sometimes        their categories. above: This New York cover, published
                                                                                                                       two months after Aucoin’s death, demonstrated how he
                                                                                                      even in          affected more than just the beauty industry. He was a
                                                                                                                       part of what makes New York tick.
                                                                                                      myself’
                                                                                                      Kevyn Aucoin      high-tech products are now featured, such as Liquid Shimmer Skin
                                                                                                                        Enhancer, which is guaranteed not to budge until you take it off, and
                                                                 What sets this line apart from the dozens                 Cream Moist Glow, a blush that contains three different shades
                                                             of recent lines to hit the cosmetics section?                          so it blends imperceptibly and naturally into the skin, like
                                                             Sakas explains, ‘Kevyn had developed the                                      a natural flush. The line recently put together a
                                                             line over the past 10 years. … He only wanted                                    bridal look for NeimanMarcus.com. Says Sakas,
                                                             to come out with his line when he felt the                                           ‘Our products are great for brides because
                                                             products were absolutely perfect. Since he                                              [they’re] extremely long-wearing.’
                                                             worked with virtually every product in the                                                    Best sellers include Samilke Expert
                                                             market over the last 20 years of his ca-                                                    Lip Tint, White Liquid Shimmer and the
                                                             reer, he saw there was a need to de-                                                          original keystone, Volume Mascara.
                                                             velop his line based on the absence                                                            Sakas emphasizes that each product
                                                             of certain products in the market.                                                              is not just make-up, but a tool for
                                                             He always said that he would never                                                               transformation. ‘Kevyn felt that all
                                                             develop a line just to have a product                                                             women could realize their own true
                                                             line out there with his name on it                                                                beauty if they had the proper tools
                                                             (something he could have done                                                                      to do so. This is what led him to
                                                             many years ago, even before Bobbi                                                                  develop the line. He also wanted to
                                                             Brown).’ Even better, his products                                                                  give back to the women who were
                                                             are accessible to every woman,                                                                       so compassionate to him while
                                                             and not directed at a specific                                                                           growing up. He wanted to give
                                                             demographic. ‘He wanted to                                                                              women the tools to empower
                                                             create something unique and                                                                             themselves.’
                                                             different from what was out there                                                                          For those who value
                                                             and something that all women of                                                                         Aucoin’s genius for detail and
                                                             all colour could use and benefit                                                                        technique, tools such as the
                                                             from. His 20 years of expertise is                                                                     professional make-up brushes
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS TO ERIC SAKAS; COURTESY NEW YORK MAGAZINE




                                                             built into the line itself.’                                                                          and the much-coveted eyelash
                                                                 In The Art of Make-up, Kevyn                                                                     curler are also available.
                                                             opined, ‘Balance doesn’t mean that                                                                   As for application tips, Sakas sug-
                                                             everything has to be even. It just means                                                         gests, ‘Use fingers or brush [when
                                                             that it all has to work in a certain way. It                                                applying make-up]. There’s nothing like
                                                             has to have an edge, it has to be beautiful,                                               it since it replicates the skin.’
                                                             and classical on some level too.’ The same                                                    Kevyn often said, ‘Today I see beauty
                                                             is true of his product line. It is not the flashi-                                         everywhere I go, in every face I see, in
                                                             est; not the line with the most unusual col-                                             every single soul, and sometimes even
                                                             ours or the greatest scientific breakthroughs.                                           in myself.’ Beauty was his mission as well
                                                                 Sakas claims, ‘We do not believe in trend                                          as his raison d’être. While Aucoin is sorely
                                                             colours. We believe (as Kevyn did) that there                                        missed as an artist and innovator, his legacy
                                                             are no rules when it comes to make-up. A                                          and philosophy live on in the line while 21st
                                                             woman should have the choice to wear                                              century technology further complements his
                                                             whatever…whenever she pleases.’ More                                               vision. •

                                                             http://lucire.com                                                                                                                    57
BEAUTY INSIDER


How can one
accomplish that
flawless beauty
look? Stevie
Wilson talks to
international
make-up artist
Diana Carreiro and
offers suggestions
for the ideal
foundation brush—
a fundamental
in beauty main
photograph by Joma
García i Gisbert




Brushing up on beauty

I
    magine Michelangelo trying to paint                             notebook                 Nicola Brockie
    the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel without his                   Because there are many great tools on the market it can be-
    brushes—his tools. Impossible, right? The                       come confusing as to what to include in your at-home make-
    same is true for achieving a truly polished,                    up kit, least of all how to use them as a pro would to get pro
    professional look with your make-up. Sure,                      results. Here we spill the beans on some of the best foundation
    it’s easy enough when we are pushed for                         brushes and how to use ’em like a pro.
    time to haphazardly slap on some base                              Once you have experienced using a foundation brush to
here and there, but for a truly flawless look the                    apply your base, you will probably never want to go back to
right tools are indispensable.                                      using latex sponges again. The finish that these brushes give is
   When beginning your daily make-up applica-                       gorgeously natural and flawless.
tion, having a perfect canvas—your face—is                             Dab foundation onto the back of your hand and, using your
crucial. Your other products won’t look as                          foundation brush, start from the centre of your face using
good unless your foundation is smooth. The                          downward motions. It is usually not essential to cover the
best trick is to invest in some brushes for dif-                    entire face with base and always ensure that you feather out
ferent types of foundation applications.                            the product around the jaw line and into the hairline. A hairline
   International make-up artist Diana Carreiro                      clogged up with product or the dreaded “tide mark” around the
has offered her expertise to Lucire. Carreiro,                      jaw gives away a shoddy application job. If necessary, blend
whose credits include Vogue España, Vogue                           out around those areas with your fingers or a large sponge.
and Marie Claire Nederland, has worked with
tons of celebrities including Mira Sorvino,                         My pick this month is the Pout foundation brush.
Dennis Quaid, Pete Postlethwaite,                                   This brush is the newest addition to my make-up kit and is now




                                                                    
Twiggy, Liisa Winkler and Daria Wer-                                one I can’t or won’t leave home without. Not only is this little
bowy. Diana doesn’t go to any job without                           baby a beautiful girly shade of pink but it’s great to hold and
her kit and her full complement of brushes.         Editor’s pick   easy to use giving flawless results. Because the brush is made
Whether it’s runway or editorial work, brushes                      from synthetic material, it is easily washable and springs back
make application smoother and less visible.                         into shape; it will also soak up less product than a natural bris-
   There are a variety of foundation brushes for                    tled brush, which means less wastage. You can use this brush
a variety of foundation types.                                      wet or dry and the tapered end is fantastic for getting right up
                                                                    under the eyes to banish those late-night circles!
                                                                       For more gorgeous products from this range, check out
                                                                    www.pout.co.uk.


Stevie Wilson is beauty editor of Lucire.




58                                                                                                            lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                                     Taklon brush                                         Kabuki brush                                        Brush 411
                                                                                      According to Diana, Taklon (a synthetic bristle)    Maybe you are using a powder or loose min-          Diana Carreiro provides these words of wisdom.
                                                                                      brushes are ‘best for liquids and creams.           eral foundation where Taklon isn’t the brush du        On selecting brushes: ‘How much to spend:
                                                                                      Choose a brush that has a rounded, tapered          jour. Diana Carreiro suggests using a Kabuki        a good rule of thumb is buying the best you
                                                                                      tip for ease of application. If you are using a     brush for a powder foundation in a pressed or       can reasonably afford. Remember that many
                                                                                      liquid foundation, dispense on to the back of       loose format.                                       make-up artists purchase their brushes in art
                                                                                      the hand or if very runny, into the palm of your       ‘A Kabuki brush is ideal when opaque foun-       supply stores where prices are often one-third
                                                                                      hand. Load brush by swirling and stroking the       dation coverage is needed. A good brush will        of the make-up industry’s and are often just as
                                                                                      bristles into the product. Start by applying to     have dense bristles with a well rounded dome.       good or better.
                                                                                      the centre of the face, working out and down           ‘Dip brush into powder, and then tap off                                           ‘Also, the denser
                                                                                      fading the colour into the hair and jaw lines.      excess. Apply foundation in a circular motion                                         the bristle, the
                                                                                      Reapply wherever more coverage is needed            starting in the middle of the face, blending                                             more opaque
                                                                                      by “stippling” (small short touches that togeth-    outward.’                                                                                   the coverage’
                                                                                      er produce an even finish with the tip of the           Here’s an important tip from Diana: ‘If                                                   of the founda-
                                                                                      brush pushing the product into the skin).’          you are using a pressed foundation, do                                                        tion product.
                                                                                                                                          not swirl the brush around in the com-                                                           Choose
                                                                                      Lucire tips                                         pact. Swirling will glaze the product and                                                    carefully and
                                                                                      Make sure you use the flat of the brush to           ruin the bristles. Always load by tapping                                                  ask questions
                                                                                      blend; use the tip to stipple foundation in to      into the pressed powder.’                                                                  at the counter
                                                                                      cover red spots, dark spots and hide blemishes.                                                                                               to determine if
                                                                                         Taklon brushes are available in a variety of     Lucire tips                                                                              this is the right
                                                                                      prices; the differences are in the ability to flex   Less is more. Make sure you tap off                                                    brush for the
                                                                                      the brush and come back to normal standing          excess to not overwhelm your face with                                                coverage you want
                                                                                      position.                                           product. Also blend, blend, blend by                                                 or need.
                                                                                                                                          brushing back and forth and swirling                                                  ‘All make-up
                                                                                      Lucire picks                                        the brush around to get excess off but                                               brushes should be
                                                                                      Cat Cosmetics Taklon brush: catcosmetics.           also to create a smooth finish.                                                       washed at least
                                                                                      com.                                                                                                                                     once a month in a
                                                                                      I-Iman Taklon brush: shopping.yahoo.com;            Lucire picks                                                                         gentle shampoo
                                                                                      I-iman.com; Sephora.                                i.d. Bare Escentuals Kabuki brush (right):                               (ei-       ther brush cleanser
                                                                                      i.d. Bare Escentuals Taklon brush: www.             www.bareescentuals.com; Ulta stores.                                    from your favourite counter or
                                                                                      bareescentuals.com; Ulta stores and ulta.com        Colorescience Mineral Foundation brush:                           baby shampoo) and allowed to
                                                                                      Select Sephora stores.                              www.colorescience.com for stores near you.          dry flat. Do not stand to dry as this will ruin the
                                                                                      Ulta Taklon brush: Ulta stores, ulta.com.                                                               adhesive and handle.’
                                                                                      Japonesque Taklon brush: Ulta stores; ulta.                                                                Lay them across a box or the
                                                                                      com; Naimies.com; shopping.yahoo.com.               Natural hair brush                                  edge of sink so that the bristles
                                                                                                                                          ‘Natural hair foundation brushes are best for       hang over the edge and can air-dry.
                                                                                                                                           mineral, loose and compact foundations.                ‘Always finish foundation appli-
                                                                                                                                             Usually used for skin that is very sensitive     cation by brushing downward so
                                                                                                                                           and when a medium to sheer foundation              that tiny facial hair lies flat.’ This is a
                                                                                                                                           finish is required. Choose a brush with a well      great tip because it’s how you get
                                                                                           Cat Cosmetics Taklon                                                                               that smooth finish.
                                                                                           brush
                                                                                                                                           rounded profile with medium to low density.’

                                                                                                                                          Lucire tips                                         Lucire thanks Diana Carreiro (theartist
                                                                                                                                          Make sure you wash this one carefully and           grouplimited.com, womancompany.com)
                                                                                                                                                                                              for her expertise in this first segment on
                                                                                                                                          that it’s completely dry before using it. Tap off   cosmetic brushes and her great tips on
                                                                                                                                          excess before applying to get an even applica-      how to select and use the various brushes.
                                                                                                                                          tion of powder.
                                                                                                                                                                                              Next month: powder brushes.
                                                                                                                                          Lucire picks
                                                                                                                                          Japonesque natural hair foundation brush:
                                                                                                                                          www.follica.com
MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: JOMA GARCÍA I GISBERT; RESPECTIVE MANUFACTURERS AND PR COMPANIES




                                                                                                                                                                                                 Colorescience mineral       Japonesque
                                                                                                                                                                                                 foundation brush             foundation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  brush




                                                                                    I-Iman foundation brush       i.d. Bare Escentuals    Ulta brand foundation      MAC foundation brush
                                                                                                                    foundation brush              brush




                                                                                      http://lucire.com                                                                                                                                           59
BEAUTY INSIDER




Poring details
It’s not often discussed, but acne breakouts can be su\ered by some
regardless of age. Bettijo B. Hirschi discusses solutions
                                                                                                                       Christy Carlson Romano is the spokesperson for the
Based in Alexandria, Va., Bettijo B. Hirschi is founder of Bath by Bettijo.                                            American Counseling Association’s Healthy Skin,




L
                                                                                                                       Healthy Outlook campaign. For more information log on
                                                                                                                       to www.counseling.org.
    ikely the biggest myth about acne is that it                 regimen including thorough cleansing with
is a teenager’s problem. This all-too-common                     bacteria-controlling cleansers and lukewarm
    skin irritation continues to baffle many peo-                 (never hot) water. Follow-up by applying a           of acne medication into the skin making them
    ple well beyond the legal drinking age.                      moisturizer that is oil-free or contains skin-       more effective,’ explained Dermatologist Susan
       Acne breakouts are caused by a combina-                   compatible oils—like sweet almond, apricot           C. Taylor, md, Director of the Skin of Color
    tion of skin issues, viz. excess oil secreted by             kernel or avocado oils—that will penetrate and       Center at St Luke’s Roosevelt Hospital Center.
                the sebaceous glands and build-up                nourish the skin, helping balance oil produc-        She recommends looking for facial exfoliators
of dead skin cells that clog pores, trapping oil in              tion rather then sitting on top of the skin and      with ahas, lactic acid, and fruit acids or ones
the follicle. Trapped along with the excess oil are              clogging pores, which would aggravate acne.          with very small, minimally abrasive particles.
bacteria, which feed on the oil, generating waste                   Exfoliation is another vital element of a skin    Most importantly, she advises that you should
products which irritate the skin.                                care regimen that will help combat extra oili-       let you skin be your guide. If you are dry or
   Oilier skin types are prone to acne break-                    ness and prevent clogged pores. This often           irritated you should scale back exfoliation.
                                                                                                                          For existing breakouts there are a number
                The best approach for controlling this irritating                                                     of spot treatments available to help conceal
                                                                                                                      and heal blemishes. Look for formulas with
            skin problem is to follow a strict skin care regimen                                                      ingredients that fight bacteria and also offer
                                                                                                                      skin-soothing and therapeutic properties.
                                  including thorough cleansing                                                            Skin problems such as rosacea and eczema
                                                                                                                      can be treated but must be treated differently
outs because they provide more food for the                      forgotten step is critical as it removes dead        than acne. For these extreme skin problems
bacteria. Hormonal changes can also increase                     skin cells from the skin’s surface, immediately      it is best to consult a dermatologist before
oil production, triggering breakouts. The bot-                   refreshing the appearance of skin and stimulat-      selecting a skin care regimen.
tom line: excellent skin care and hygiene are                    ing new cell growth.                                     On this spread is a compilation of the lat-
vitally important to remove the excess oils and                     ‘If exfoliation is done gently (i.e. with alpha   est effective treatments for acne-prone skin.
bacteria that are associated with acne.                          hydroxy acid (aha) products and not harsh            Should over-the-counter products not prove
   The best approach for controlling this irritat-               abrasives), then it will not harm acne prone skin.   successful or cause irritation, visit a dermatolo-
ing skin problem is to follow a strict skin care                 In fact, exfoliation may enhance the penetration     gist for an evaluation. •




Jurlique Foaming Facial Cleanser                               Cleansers
• Cleanser with tea tree oil, lavender and
herbal antioxidants.                                                                  Dermalogica Anti-                                     Zia Aloe & Citrus
• Non-drying for acne-prone skin.                                                     Bac Skin Wash                                         Wash
                                                                                      us$26·50 for 8 oz (www.                               us$18·95 for 6 oz (www.
                                                                                      dermalogica.com)                                      zianatural.com)
                                                                                     • A fresh and effective                               • Lightly lathering, non-oily
                                                                                      gel cleanser, which feels                             cleanser that gives you
                                                                                      like it really works and                              a “squeaky clean” feeling
                                                                                      does work.                                            without stripping your skin.
                                                                                     • Deep cleans the skin                                • Soap-free and does not
                                                                                      of excess oils but is non-                            contain harsh detergents
                                                                                      drying and calming so it                              (such as sodium lauryl
                                                                                      works well on inflamed                                 sulfate) to provide cleans-
                                                                                      skin conditions.                                      ing that’s as gentle as it is
                                                                                     • Triclosan helps inhibit                              thorough. Citrus extracts
                                                                                      bacteria on the skin’s                                gently dissolve pore-
                                                                                      surface as Salicylic acid                             clogging oil for a clearer
                                                                                      dissolves dead skin                                   complexion.
                                                                                      debris making it ideal for                           • Aloe and vitamins C & E
                                                                                      blemish prone skin.                                   fight cell damage and pro-
                                                                                     • Fragrance-free.                                      mote healing of blemishes.



60                                                                                                                                             lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
Moisturizers
                    Mario Badescu Skincare                               Eucerin Clear Skin
                    Oil-Free Moisturizer SPF                             Formula Skin Renewal
                    17                                                   SPF 15 Day Lotion
                    us$22 for 2 oz (www.marioba-                         us$10·29
                    descu.com)                                           • This oil-free moistur-
                    • Lightweight daily moisturizer.                     izer is specially formulated
                    • Protects from sun’s harm-                          with lactic acid, a gentler
                    ful uva and uvb rays while it                        aha/bha to effectively
                    hydrates and softens skin.                           unclog pores, so it works
                    • An ideal moisturizer for                           continuously to help keep
                    people with oily, acne-prone                         skin blemish free.
                    skin as the primary ingredient                       • The non-irritating formula
                    is water.                                            is safe for use on sensi-
                    • Paba-free.                                         tive skin and has uva/uvb
                                                                         protection.                        Kiehl’s Blue Herbal Moisturizer
                                                                                                            us$22 for 8 oz (www.kiehls.com)
                                                                                                            • This oil-free moisturizer is medicated
Exfoliants and masks                                                                                        with salicylic acid to help clear blackheads,
                                                                                                            whiteheads and acne blemishes.
                                                                                                            • Made with ginger root and cinnamon
                                                                                                            bark extracts, this serum absorbs quickly,
                                                                                                            penetrating pores to balance oil secretion
                                                                                                            helping to prevent formation of new acne
                                                                                                            blemishes.
                                                                                                            • The formula is dermatologist-tested to
                                                                                                            minimize allergy risk.
                                                                                                            • Kiehl’s is a ‘Brand with a Conscience’ win-
                                                                                                            ner at the Medinge Group, 2004.



DERMed                                   DDF Sulfur Therapeutic Mask                     MDSkincare
Pumpkin Exfoliating Cream                us$34 for 4 oz (www.ddfskincare.                Alpha-Beta Peel
us$64 for 1 oz (for store locations      com)                                            Home Facial System
call 1 866 433-7633 ext. 100)            • A therapeutic medicated mask                  us$68 for 30 applications
   Pumpkins aren’t just for pies,        to help manage oily skin and                    (visit www.mdskincare.
they are incorporated into this          clogged pores.                                  com)
mask from Institut DERMed to             • Combining the anti-inflamma-                      This unique at-home
heal acne breakouts and correct          tory properties of Sulfur with Aloe             exfoliation system consists
skin discolorations.                     Vera, purifying clays and aromatic              of two easy steps involving
   This retinol peel cream for-          extracts.                                       read-to-use pads loaded
mulated from Pumpkin extract             • This mask reduces the severity                with a precisely calibrated
combines a triple action enzyme          of acne blemishes and allows the                blend of five alpha and
with alpha hydroxy acids to control      skin to heal.                                   beta hydroxy acids.
oil and stimulate new cell growth.       • Frequent use also helps prevent                  First, a blend of multiple alpha hydroxy acids, mostly de-
   A non-abrasive exfoliator,            new acne breakouts.                             rived from fruits, is applied with the exfoliating Step 1 pad.
the cream nourishes skin with                                                               Next the Step 2 neutralizer pad is applied delivering a
antioxidants while removing dead                                                         combination of antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E and sooth-
cell debris and abnormal pigment                                                         ing green tea extract to neutralize the acids in Step 1, caus-
cell clusters, revealing brightly-pol-                                                   ing a contraction of collagen that instantly results in firmer,
ished and smooth skin.                                                                   more toned skin.



                                                   Jurlique Deep                                                     Exuviance Rejuvenating
                                                   Penetrating Cream                                                 Treatment Masque
                                                   Mask                                                              us$16·50 for 2·5 oz (www.neos-
                                                   Firming and nourishing                                            trata.com)
                                                   as well as calming, this                                             A deep cleansing home peel
                                                   mask is perfect if your                                           masque that helps unclog pores,
                                                   skin is looking tired.                                            evens skin tone and smoothes
                                                   • Tip: use before special                                         skin. Contains an exclusive blend of
                                                   occasions as a “beauty                                            alpha and polyhydroxys to moistur-
                                                   flash” treatment.                                                  ize, hydrate and rejuvenate.
                                                                                                                     • Using fingertips, apply an even
                                                   Jurlique Moor Puri-                                               layer over cleansed face and neck
                                                   fying Mask                                                        avoiding eye area.
                                                   • Deep cleansing,                                                 • Enjoy the delicious apple–citrus
                                                   excellent for oily and                                            scent as the mask dries completely
                                                   acne-prone skin.                                                  for 15–20 minutes. Gently peel off or
                                                                                                                     rinse off with water.
                                                                                                                     • Use once a week.

http://lucire.com                                                                                                                                         61
BEAUTY INSIDER

Spot Treatments and Concealers
Yon-Ka                                                                  Dermacia, Inc.                      Clinique Acne Solutions Con-
Emulsion Pure                                                           LycoGel Concealer                   cealing Stick
us$36 for 1·7 oz (for store loca-                                       us$35 for 6 ml (www.lycogel.        us$13·50 (at Clinique counters or at
tions call 1 800 391-5333)                                              com)                                www.clinique.com)
• A specialized treatment liquid                                        • Medicated concealer that          • More then just a cover-up; soft
for healing and soothing acne                                           provides full coverage as it        enough to apply gently and smoothly
blemishes.                                                              heals as it hides.                  to blemished skin, minimizing the ap-
• This intensive multi-action                                           • Unique formula containing         pearance of surface imperfections, but
formula heals, rejuvenates,                                             live yeast cell derivatives—a       stays put throughout the day.
normalizes sebaceous glands                                             known tissue respiratory factor     • Unique Ultracolor Soft Focus tech-
and has antiseptic, anti-in-                                            that facilitates oxygen, allowing   nology deflects light to cosmetically
flammatory and astringent                                                the skin to breathe, mak-           minimize the appearance of blemishes.
qualities.                                                              ing it ideal for use on                • Spiked with several acne-fighting
• Containing multiple es-                                               irritated skin types (i.e.             ingredients such as Salicylic acid,
sential oils, including Thyme,                        rosacea or acne).                                        sucrose and caffeine, which work to-
Lavender and Cypress, this also                       • Encourages moisture and oxygen                          gether to reduce redness, irritation
regulates the lymphatic circulation, which is         into the treated zones, assisting in                        and eliminate excess oil, prevent-
essential for correcting breakouts.                   the recovery process while creating                         ing future blemishes.
• Originally developed for use in hospitals for       the illusion of perfect skin.
its healing and cauterizing properties.               • Contains uva and uvb.                                   Philosophy Hope in a Bottle
• Aside from treating acne, Emulsion Pure can                                                                   • Topical treatment for congested skin,
also be used to sooth irritations of superficial                                                                 helping to prevent development of new
burns, insect bites, and after depilation.                                       Editor’s pick                  acne blemishes.
• Improves coloring and skin firmness and may                                                                    • Penetrates deep into the pores to clear
be applied to the whole body if needed.                                                                         most acne blemishes.




notebook                  introduced by Nicola Brockie


Clearing strategy
This month we discovered the Pure Focus               out leaving any residue and even without the
range from Lancôme, specifically formulated            mattifying gel left me shine-free, which I have
to target the causes of problem, oily skin that       never encountered before with other moistur-
can seriously inhibit the confidence and self          izers I have tried, my foundation went on really
esteem of those affected. This system works           well and seemed to stay put much longer than
not only on the visible effects on the skins          usual.
surface but reaches deep down to the root of             The mattifying powder gel is really light
the sebaceous gland to absorb excess sebum            and non greasy and is a fantastic way to keep
at its source.                                        shine at bay. I just patted it on and my skin was
   The products are composed of a special             instantly smooth and quite powdery—a novelty
selection of powders specifically chosen for           for someone with oily skin! I carry this around
their sebum absorbing qualities as well as a          with me all the time now.
cocktail of sebum-regulating bacterial static,           After four weeks my skin seemed totally
ant oxidising and soothing ingredients such           different and much more liveable. As a result of
as cinnamon, vitamin E, alpha bisabolol and           using these products, I had more confidence
salyclic capriloyl acid.                              because I wasn’t constantly worrying whether
   In creating this line, Lancôme is offering a       people were staring at my skin when they
change of life a boost of confidence by quite
simply providing a change of skin. Pure Focus
will leave you with thoroughly cleansed but
not stripped skin, which is lastingly mattified,
                                                      these products.

                                                      Pure Focus T-zone instant matifying
                                                                                                 
                                                      were talking to me. I will definitely keep using

                                                                                                                 above left: Lancôme Pure Focus Mois-
                                                                                                                 turizing Lotion. above right: Lancôme Pure
refined and powdery, smooth, even close up.            powder gel nz$60                                           Focus T. Zone Instant Matifying Powder Gel.
                                                      For forehead, nose and chin
Real-life review, by Anne-Marie Evans                 Oil-free soft texture which transforms into a
As a sufferer of oily skin I know how difficult it     powdery gel when applied directly to skin,
is to find a product which will make my skin           under or over make-up.
feel really clean without leaving it tight and
shiny—and only hours later to have an oil slick       Deep purifying cleansing gel nz$57
appear, making it difficult to keep my make-up         A translucent gel with smooth foam contain-                       Lancôme Pure Focus Deep
                                                                                                                       Purifying Cleansing Gel for Oily
on and to feel really polished. I trialled the Pure   ing gentle micro beads with mild exfoliating                                  Skin.
Focus range for four weeks using the cleanser,        properties to cleanse and purify deep down
moisturizing lotion and mattifying gel. The           and clear away all impurities. Skin is purified
cleanser has tiny micro particles which feel          deep down.
as though they are slightly exfoliating the face
without being scratchy and smells very clean          Moisturizing lotion nz$75
and fresh, my face felt exceptionally clean after     Long-lasting, oil-free, providing all-day matte-
using it. The moisturizer hydrated my face with-      ness and hydration wherever the skin needs it.

62                                                                                                                                   lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
Dr.Hauschka is an exquisite range of
certified natural skin and body care,
including decorative cosmetics.
Performance based, these luxurious
products are loaded with natural
antioxidants, protective plant waxes
and the wonderful aroma of nature
to soothe the senses in our busy world.
Free from synthetic preservatives,
colours and fragrances.
Indulge yourself as nature intended.




                                          Dr.Hauschka Helpline (09) 574 3350 or 0508 4 CERES ext 821 • www.drhauschka.co.nz
http://lucire.com                                                                                                       63
BEAUTY INSIDER




You’ve got nail
Our hands and feet are often ignored but a manicure or pedicure
could be just the reward for these unsung heroes.
Sarah Priddy and Nicola Brockie provide their tips on nail care
photographed by Douglas Rimington and Joma García i Gisbert




I
     t’s the night of your dream date and             accessory and finishing touch, taking your           strappy sandal and champagne flute-holding
     everything is set. Little black dress, check.    overall look to new levels. Having fabulous         shape for spring and summer.
     Glitzy little evening bag, check. Sexy           feet and toenails is like having a Brazilian and       Take the phone off the hook, turn on
     shoes, check. Everything is good to go,          wearing expensive lingerie; only you know           your most relaxing cd and light your aroma-
     you are immaculately groomed with your           what lies beneath, making you feel oh-so-sexy,      therapy—it’s tune-out time.
     hair sparkling, your bling blinging and skin     indulgent and special. This, my darlings, is the
     glowing, but with all your prep and mirror       essence of good grooming, doing things just
     poses you may have overlooked the very           for you and taking care of the tiniest details to   Prep
detail that can make or break gorgeous groom-         pull your look together completely for signed,      The single most important step in nail
ing—hands and feet!                                   sealed and delivered glam.                          care is to keep your cuticles pushed back on
   These four hard little workers do so much             So where do we start? Either get a standing      a regular basis; this will open up the cuticle,
for us, all day, every day. It’s no wonder they       monthly appointment with your nearest and           promoting new growth and stronger nails. It
can start to look a little frazzled as they are       dearest professional manicurist (get a recom-       also makes painting
dunked in hot and cold water and chemicals.           mendation from a friend to find a great one!).       nails much easier if
Nails are assaulted by keyboards and tab tops,        Or have a little fun at home, get your girls        your cuticles are in
tootsies are squished into our stilettos and          together for a giggle and some grooming, or         great shape.
smothered in socks, lurking beneath our foot-         even do it alone for a much needed recharge            Use a few drops of
wear ignored and neglected, often for months          and some you time. If you are willing to put in     cuticle oil on to each
on end. You can just hear them crying out to          the hour’s work (at least) once a month you         nail and push gently
be loved!                                             will reap the rewards sooner than you can say,      back with an orange-
   Girls, it’s time to pay it forward and start      ‘Little piggy went to market’.                       wood stick (no impro-
investing in our extremities.                            This month, we hung out with Sarah               vising here with any
   For such small body parts, our hands and           Priddy at Sarah Priddy Nails in Newmarket,          scary-looking metal
feet can say so much. Perfectly groomed               Auckland, New Zealand to get the inside             objects, please!). Try
hands and nails are an extension of you and           scoop on how best to get our fingers and toes        Solar Oil by Crea-
how you treat you! They are also the perfect          out of hibernation post-winter and back into        tive (right).




64                                                                                                                                lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                                                                        Getting into shape                                                                        The scoop
                                                                                                                        One size does not fit all where nail shape is concerned. Sarah Priddy
                                                                                                                        recommends only letting the free edge of the nail extend just a couple
                                                                                                                        of millimetres beyond the fingertip at most, to reduce the likelihood of                  Sarah
                                                                                                                        breakages and to minimize maintenance time.
                                                                                                                           A general rule of thumb for shaping nails is to use your cuticle shape                Priddy
                                                                                                                        as a guide—mirroring its shape on the tip of your nail. If, however, you
                                                                                                                        have a wonky cuticle or just want to try something new, Sarah Priddy                     We chat to our
                                                                                                                        offers the following basic guidelines to nail shape versus hand and finger                co-conspirator
                                                                                                                        size.
                                                                                                                           Average hands and nails: average-sized hands and nails usually suit a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 of this article,
                                                                                                                        squared-off nail shape which will create a strong nail and a clean look.                 manicurist
                                                                                                                           Short, strong fingers and hands: try a squoval shaped nail (squared                    Sarah Priddy,
                                                                                                                        off oval) which will elongate the finger.                                                 of Sarah
                                                                                                                           Very small delicate hands: usually suits an almond-shaped nail.                       Priddy Nails in
                                                                                                                           Never file nails when they have been wet, as they are more prone to
                                                                                                                        breaking and damage (just like hair). It is also important not to saw back               Auckland, New
                                                                                                                        and forth along the nail when filing but from the outer edge to the centre                Zealand
                                                                                                                        avoiding filing down too deeply into the corners which may leave you
                                                                                                                        open to infection.                                                                       How did you get
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 started in your
                                                                                                                                                                            right: Kanga nail file by Creative.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 career?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 By natural progression and by listening to other women.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 I have always kept my own hands looking immaculate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and have always received compliments about them. So,
                                                                                                                                                                Exfoliate                                        it was through a want of helping other women to have
                                                                                                                                                 There are so many gorgeous scrubs                               beautiful looking hands and feet in a private, modern,
                                                                                                                                                   out there on the market but if you                            relaxing space with 100 per cent natural treatments that
                                                                                                                                                   are pampering at home and want                                Sarah Priddy Nails was created.
                                                                                                                                                    a natural fix Sarah Priddy recom-
                                                                                                                                                  mends a mixture of manuka honey                                What do you find as the most fulfilling aspect
                                                                                                                                                   and sugar heated for 20 seconds                               of your job?
                                                                                                                                                  in the microwave (test heat before                             The end result! If you can avoid it, you don’t need to
                                                                                                                                                   applying). Massage this potion or                             throw artificial product onto your nails to get them look-
                                                                                                                                                 scrub of your choice into your hands                            ing amazing. With intensive skin treatments and nurtur-
                                                                                                                                                 and feet and wrap in cling film and a                            ing nail maintenance, anyone can walk out of my studio
                                                                                                                                                  warm clean towel. Relax for 10 min-                            with gorgeous hands and feet. I love that I can promise
                                                                                                                                                 utes and rinse. You will be suprised                            people that.
                                                                                                                                                 how much of this gorgeous mixture
                                                                                                                                                    will be absorbed by your thirsty                             Define beauty in three words.
                                                                                                                                                             hands and feet.                                     Manicures, pedicures and smiles!

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 What are your ‘can’t live without’ beauty
                                                                                                                                       above: Crabtree & Evelyn La source revitalizing foot smoother.            essentials?
BACKSTAGE: JOMA GARCÍA I GISBERT; PRODUCTS: DOUGLAS RIMINGTON; PHILOSOPHY IMAGE: JASON HURDLE; SARAH PRIDDY: JACK YAN




                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Christina Fitzgerald Polishes (which you can purchase at
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 my studio), the Living Nature skin care range, Nurture Oil
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Cuticle Oil, Orangewood cuticle stick, file, Living Nature
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Hand Soap and plenty of milk for strong healthy nails!

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Describe a typical day at the office.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Because my business is still young and I am putting my
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 energy into growing a larger client base, the dynamics of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 each day can be quite different. While the systems of my
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 manicure and pedicure treatments remain largely the same,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 it’s my clients that make the day different and great fun!
                                                                                                                                              this image: The Gingerbread Man Body Scrub by
                                                                                                                                                               Philosophy.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 What will people be seeking this season?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Shorter, easier to manage nails splashed with vibrant cor-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 als and pinks as the perfect accessory to all the beautiful
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 colours and patterns of the new summer fashion ranges.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Closing thoughts?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 It is my personal mission to help women see manicures
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and pedicures as an essential part of their beauty régime,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 not a luxury. Your nails say so much about your personal-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 ity and how you take care of yourself, plus they are the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 easiest most cost-effective accessory a girl could ask for!
                                                                                                                          Nails are assaulted by keyboards; tootsies                                                 Due to popular demand, I will be offering acrylic nails
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 in the very near future. Of course, I will always be an
                                                                                                                         lurk beneath our footwear. You can just hear                                            advocate for healthy, natural nails first.

                                                                                                                                 them crying out to be loved!

                                                                                                                        http://lucire.com                                                                                                                                65
BEAUTY INSIDER

notebook
                               We love Dermalogica Multivitamin hand
                               treatment. This treat in a tube will repair your
                               skin and strengthen nails. Includes spf 15                                           the perfect treat for tired tootsies
                               and filled with healing and soothing ingredi-
                               ents such as algæ extract, sweet almond oil,                                 Spa Organics Revitalizing Mint
                               vitamins E and C, licorice extract and gingko                                Foot Soak. Formulated with ahas to
                               biloba. Like invisible gloves for the hands and                              help shed hardened skin and calluses.
                               feet.                                                                         Contains lavender, peppermint and
                                                                                                                   spearmint essential oils.




Hydrate
If you have just used your manuka honey
concoction you will already be ultra hydrated
however for an extra indulgence drop a little
cuticle oil on to each nail and massage in. Next
apply lashings of rich foot–hand cream and
give yourself a nice rub down concentrating on
your fingers and toes, rotating them as you go.
    Tip: for a refreshing foot cream without
spending megabucks, try adding a few drops
of essential peppermint oil to your regular hand
or body cream—cooling and delicious!



  Have a little fun at home,                           Weleda Sea Buck-           Crabtree & Evelyn            Australian Bush                  Pevonia multi-ac-
                                                       thorn Hand Cream.          La Source Hand               Botancials                       tive foot cream:
     get your girls together                           Another one of our         Therapy. Especially          soothing foot                    thick and rich,
     for a giggle and some                             favourites, packed full    formulated with shea         cream—peach                      smells fresh,
                                                       of natural goodies—a       butter, which will           blossom, tea tree                promotes exfolia-
    grooming, or even do it                            real treat.                soothe and protect           and river mint                   tion with ahas and
  alone for a much needed                                                         your hands.                  (slip cotton socks
                                                                                                               on after this foot
                                                                                                                                                keeps feet bacteria-
                                                                                                                                                free. Packed with
   recharge and some you

                                                                                                                                                                           DOUGLAS RIMINGTON; PEVONIA AND SPA ORGANICS: JACK YAN; CHRISTINA FITZGERALD: COURTESY THE MANUFACTURER AND
                                                                                                               treat for smoother               lush ingredients
                        time                                                                                   tootsies).                       such as mandarin
                                                                                                                                                orange oil and tea
                                                                                                                                                tree.

Paint job
Be sure that all residue is removed from nails before painting: use a swipe
of polish remover to remove all traces of oil and residue. Separate your little
                                                                                                                                                                           SARAH PRIDDY NAILS; AUSTRALIAN BUSH BOTANICALS COURTESY THE MANUFACTURER




piggies with rolled up cotton wipes or a toe separator and apply your base
coat. This will provide a nice base for your coloured polish to adhere to and will
prevent staining of the nail if you are using a dark polish.
   Work from the middle outwards and allow a minute or two between coats
to prevent “dragging” your polish and ruining your paint job. If you slip up and
paint everywhere but the nail, don’t panic: dip a cotton tip in polish remover
and clean up where you have over-painted. Once your colour polish has had
a minute or two, paint on a clear topcoat which will set your nails hard and
prevent chipping. Avoid the cuticle—varnish stained skin screams trashy!
   If there is no such thing as spare time in your life and five minutes is all you
have—you are best to avoid vampish reds and darker hues, instead try a very
light polish as these tend to dry faster than their darker counterparts and are
more forgiving on slip-ups. Try Christina Fitzgerald’s Barney or French
Vanilla by Clinique. •

                                                                                       above left: Christina Fitzgerald Barney. above right: Clinique Glosswear nail
Nicola Brockie is editor-in-chief of Lucire.                                           enamel in French Vanilla.
Sarah Priddy Nails can be found at the Quest, 31–9
Davis Crescent, Newmarket, Auckland, New Zealand.
Telephone 64 9 522-2078, cellphone 64 21 500-621.
66                                                                                                                                           lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                                              Finally the first eve
ESK MOD021 Model: Angela Shallis FACE Models Swimsuit by Wayne Cooper




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                                                                        http://lucire.com                              67
BEAUTY INSIDER




                                                                                                  Y
                                                                Reminiscent of the                                 ou may think that picking out
                                                                glitz and glamour                                  the right shade of red requires lit-
                                                                                                                  tle luck but it’s actually very easy.
                                                                of the 1940s, red                               In fact, if done correctly, red lip
                                                                lipstick wear,                                 colour can make your pearly whites
                                                                once reserved for                             even whiter and is guaranteed to
                                                                special occasions,                           make your smile that much more
                                                                                                            irresistible.
                                                                is becoming the                      Start off your red lip colour journey by select-
                                                                everyday lip colour               ing shades that will complement your skin tone
                                                                to sport this season              and colouring.
                                                                by Ashlea Tate                       Gabriela Hernandez, President of Besame
                                                                                                  Cosmetics, offers the following advise to
                                                                                                  choosing the perfect hue for you:
                                                                Ashlea Tate is a Los Angeles-        •      fair and light skin with light hair should
                                                                based correspondent for Lucire.   choose a deep, velvet colour towards the
                                                                                                  neutral or cool range;
                                                                                                     •      medium brown hair with light skin
                                                                                                  should pick raspberry or deep reds with blue
                                                                                                  undertones.
                                                                                                     •      redheads can get away with coral or
                                                                                                  bright apple reds both with warm undertones.



Awfully rouge
                                                                                                     •      brunettes with tan or olive skin should
                                                                                                  pick warm, plush deep reds.
                                                                                                     •      silver-grey hair with light skin usually
                                                                                                  best suits pink reds or cool crimsons.




So many reds,
so little time
Red lip colour, the beauty                                                                        Philosophy Kiss
equivalent of fashions little black                                                               Me—Red
dress has so many different                                                                       Sheer hit of berry
versions, textures and varieties it                                                               colour that lightly tints
can seem overwhelming at first.                                                                    and conditions the lips
We join you in the quest for your                                                                 with a variety of fruit
perfect fit. Here are a few of our            Clinique Juicy Apple                                 oils and other moistur-
faves.                                        Glosswear for Lips                                  izing emollients. A citrus-
                                                                                                  flavoured lip balm that
Lip glosses                                                                                       also smells as wonder-
If you are a girl, like many of us                                                                ful—but never overpow-



                                                                                                                                                          MAC PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY MAC; PRODUCTS: JACK YAN; SUGARBABY COURTESY KYLIE BLENCOWE/SAX INTERNATIONAL
with a not quiet perfectly sym-                                                                   ering—as it tastes. See
metrical pout and still want to go                                                                www.philosophy.com.
red without looking wonky stick
to glosses which will make your
lips appear fuller.




         Lucky Lips Mimosa, Jas-
                                                                    L’Oreal ColourJuice
      mine and Violet Lip Shine by
                                                                    in Raspberry Smash
                  Lucky Chick
                                                                     Want luscious lips with
       You, like a lucky chick, can have
                                                                     lots of shine and sheer
      blissfully kissable lips: the mimosa
                                                                    colour? ColourJuice will                         Red Haute Crème
         jasmine and violet lip shine is
                                                                     quench your lips’ thirst                        Brilliance gloss by
        absolutely lush. It’s super-slick,
                                                                    with its juicy glossy finish                              MAC
       leaving lips lusciously soft with a
                                                                     and just enough colour
        rosy hint of shiny colour us$12.
                                                                       to make ’em blush.
             www.luckychick.com




68                                                                                                                          lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                                                                          SugarBaby cheek eye
                                                                                                                          and lip tint
                                                                                                                          In an easy squeezy girly pink
                                                                                                                                  tube, this is safe to
                                                                                                                                              use all over
Lip stains                                                                                                                                    the face
Lip stains are perfect for wearing
                                                                                                                                             (but not all
either on their own or as a long-last-
                                                 Philosophy Supernaturals                                                                   at once) from
ing base for your gloss. You can use
                                                    The supernatural cheek and                                                             lips to eyes
these to achieve a tiny hint of tint
                                                    lip tint was a favourite of our                                                       and the apples
or a deep sexy stain depending on
                                                 beloved Kevyn Aucoin because                                                            of the cheeks.
how many layers you apply and you
                                                it created a lovely, soft, red color                                                     See www.sug
can give cheeks a soft blush when
                                                  to lips and cheeks for a natural,                                                      arbaby.com.
lightly applied with the fingers.
                                                   radiant look. The supernatural
Benefit Benetint                                 lip and cheek tint is a lightweight
A sheer ruby tint with a rose fra-                gel that gives a long-lasting tint
grance, benetint acts as a base col-               that won’t rub off—perfect for
our of red used alone or underneath                 a barely there make-up look.
your favourite shiny gloss. Visit www.           Tastes of pomegranate to keep
benefitcosmetics.com.                                          you sweet.




Ready to wear
If you are going to wear a red lip colour, al-       Lancôme Juicy Rouge—
ways remember: wear the red colour and don’t         Nectar
let the red wear you.                                This mouth-watering shade                                            Ramy Red: a truly wearable
   ‘A red lipstick is going to pull the focus’       is sparkling and fresh with                                          rich burgundy infused with
explains Jane Iredale, president and founder of      a big burst of long lasting                                          avocado oil and vitamin E. See
Iredale mineral cosmetics.                           colour infused with shimmery                                         www.ramybeautytherapy.com.
   The trick, according to Iredale, is to keep eye   bits! This is ultra bright and
make-up to a minimum, with no heavy shad-            ultra shiny and goes that step
ows. For example, try a soft all-over shimmer        up from wearing a gloss with its
base shade, liner and mascara.                       opaque shine and is packaged beautifully
   Pair red lips with black attire since the two     in a holographic tube.
are a classic, dynamic duo.
   ‘You’ll be amazed how wearing red bright-                                           By Academy Award-nominated make-up artist
ens your face and takes away the sallow look                                           Tina Earnshaw, Clover is a true, rich ruby
that black tends to give,’ says Iredale.                                               red with magnificent staying power. See
   If you are more lipstick than gloss or stain                                        www.tinaearnshaw.com.
here are some of our favourite fuller coverage
lippies.


‘For a long lasting shine apply a clear shiny top coat,
 only to the centre of your bottom lip.’ According to
 Hernandez, it was Marilyn Monroe’s favourite trick


Red-hot: how to keep your ruby reds lasting longer

Nothing’s worse than fading ruby reds. To             colour to move but will leave the pigment
remedy this lip emergency, Jane Iredale offers        behind.
some top tips to keep your pout painted for              • Apply lipstick with a brush for greater
longer:                                               precision and coverage than straight from the
   • Use powder as a base before applying             tube.
lipstick—this will lock in the pigments of the           Blot again and apply a second coat in the
colour you are using.                                 middle of the lips away from the edges.
   • Follow with lip liner, which preferably             ‘For a long lasting shine apply a clear shiny
matches the colour of your lippy. Fill in the         top coat, only to the centre of your bottom
entire lip and then blot—this will remove the         lip.’ According to Hernandez, it was Marilyn
waxes contained in lipstick which cause the           Monroe’s favourite trick. •


                               opposite page, top left, and right: Imagery from the MAC Red Haute collection.




http://lucire.com                                                                                                                                      69
                                                           BEAUTY NOW
notebook                        Extra


Avon falls in love
with colour
This fall, Avon Color has been reformu-
lated and repackaged with vibrant, modern
colour and the latest advances in technology.
   Each item now incorporates Intuitive
Technology. The formulas and ingredi-
ents adjust to your individual chemistry. In
addition, the products come with custom
colour that lets you add and subtract as
inspiration strikes.
   Salma Hayek is the new spokesperson
for Avon. She currently features in the new
advertisements for Avon Color’s My Lip
Miracle, a high-tech lipstick which com-
bines with your body’s chemistry to create
a lipstick that is unique.




                                                         Towards the cure
   Some of the other exciting Avon Color
products available in fall will include Per-
fect Wear Long Lasting Mascara,
Nailwear Nail Enamel, True Color
Eyeshadow and True Color Powder
Blush. All the new products promise long-                In 2003, Lucire promoted and contributed to the Avon Walk for
wearing colour.
   Avon Color is featuring some special
                                                         Breast Cancer Research, with one of our team participating in New
colours this fall: Real Reds. Red was big on             York. October is Breast Cancer Awareness month, and we join
the fall runways, and Avon offers this clas-             with these companies in raising awareness. Sheri Forrest looks at
sic colour in a range of flattering hues for its          products where proceeds go to support breast cancer research




                                                         E
My Lip Miracle (Incredible, Remarka-
berry, Super Red, Berry Delight), Glaze-
wear Liquid Lip Color (Ruby Red, Real                                  very three minutes, a woman           This year, the Avon Salon & Spa in Trump
Red, Berry Lavish) and Nailwear Nail                                   is diagnosed with breast cancer    Tower, New York is offering free haircuts and
Enamel (Fire Engine Red, Cherry Red,                                   in the us. To promote awareness    styling to cancer patients, along with advice
Red Alert, Femme) lines.                                               and support for a cure, October    on how to adjust to the impact cancer can
   Avon’s second annual Let’s Talk                                     has been officially designated      have on their appearance. The Avon Salon &
Beauty Tour is providing an opportunity                                Breast Cancer Awareness month.     Spa also offers a special pink robe with the
to test the new Avon Color products before                             A number of companies have         Breast Cancer Crusade Ribbon embroidered
they became available. The nationwide                    rallied behind this important cause and offer    on the lapel. A portion of the proceeds will
tour began on May 15 in Tennessee, and                   some exciting new products with some or          support breast cancer research. Haircuts are
will run until October 26 in Ohio. A sleek,              all proceeds going to support breast cancer      offered every Wednesday from 5 to 7 p.m. with
streamlined mobile salon on wheels, the                  research.                                        Joelle, in Trump Tower, 725 Fifth Avenue at
tour exhibit offers free makeovers and                       Since 1993, Avon’s Breast Cancer Cru-        57th Street, New York. Avon Salon & Spa’s
manicures from Avon-certified advisers. In                sade has raised millions for cancer research.    Pink Robe is available for us$125 (call 1 212
addition to a section devoted entirely to the            The Avon Breast Cancer Crusade introduced a      755-2866 to order).
new Avon Color line, there are testers and               new set of fund-raising walks in 2003 in which      Avon has teamed up with Mark, its new
product samples available for Avon skin                  this magazine participated: the Avon Walks       beauty line, to create three additional “pink rib-
care favourites such as PlanetSpa, Avon                  for Breast Cancer. The walks are organized in    bon” fund-raising products. The Mark Kiss
Anew and Skin-So-Soft.                                   several major cities in the us, drawing large    Kit is a limited edition duo of mints and lip
   A “salon” at the back of the exhibit pro-             numbers of participants.                         gloss. The mints are sugar-free, heart-shaped
vides a luxurious environment where women
can be pampered and learn about the latest
products and application techniques.                                                                                              top: Andrea Jung, Chairman
   In addition, women can donate us$1 and                                                                                         and CEO of Avon; Oscar-
                                                                                                                                  nominated actress Salma
                                                                                                                                                                MAIN IMAGE BY TODD WAWRYCHUK; RESPECTIVE PR COMPANIES AND LABELS




sign their name to a Kiss and Commit                                                                                              Hayek; and Kathleen Walas,
card, which is added to the Kiss Collage, a                                                                                       President, Avon Foundation
display decorated with a lipstick-kiss design,                                                                                    at a Foundation event in
                                                                                                                                  Anaheim, Calif. on July 22.
with proceeds going to breast cancer
                                                                                                                                  far left: Avon’s special
research. For more information on the tour                                                                                        pink robe for Breast Cancer
and upcoming stops, visit www.youravon.                                                                                           Awareness Month. left: A
com/ articles/info_library/letstalktour.html.                                                                                     limited-edition nail enamel
                                                                                                                                  from Avon featuring the
   My Lip Miracle will launch at the begin-                                                                                       Breast Cancer Crusade
ning of September. New PerfectWear Long-                                                                                          Ribbon.
Lasting Mascara will become available in
October. Contact 1 800 500-avon, www.
avon.com; in New Zealand, call (0508)
777-007 or visit www.avon.co.nz for the
latest.—Sheri Forrest
Sheri Forrest is an Irvine, Calif.-based correspondent
for Lucire.


70                                                                                                                                lu c ir e n ov em b er 2004
                                                                            clockwise from top
                                                                            left: B.O.O.B.S., a book
                                                                            detailing breast cancer
                                                                            survivors’ experiences.
                                                                            BMW’s pink seat-belt
and cinnamon-flavoured, and the shiny clear lip                              cosmetic bag. Special
                                                                            Fresh Eye Palette for
gloss is rosebud-scented. The kit will be avail-                            Breast Cancer Awareness
able for $6 in October, while supplies last.                                Month. Go Smile compact.
   Avon has also created a beautiful holiday                                m.andoni Pink Bow to
                                                                            Breast Cancer bags.
ornament. The heart-shaped, blown-glass                                      Tweezerman tweezers
ornament has a satin gold-tone finish and a                                   with Breast Cancer
sheer pink ribbon for hanging. A pink rhine-                                  Crusade logo. Sephora
stone ribbon decorates the front, accented                                   pop-up brush.
with starburst details. This will also be
available in October and through the holiday
season, for us$7·50.
   Finally, Avon has teamed up with six influen-
tial celebrities to create Avon Breast Cancer
Crusade Celebrity Nailwear. Each celeb-
rity created their own special shade including:
Salma’s Hope (Salma Hayek), Sharon’s Heart                                                             and recovering from Breast Cancer. Their hu-
(Sharon Stone), Leah’s Courage (Leah Remini),                                                          mour, courage and inspiration make this book
Cybill’s Strength (Cybill Shepherd), Tracee’s                                                          an inspirational must-read.
Passion (Tracee Ellis Ross) and Ali’s Faith (Ali                                                          Another breast cancer survivor, Lisa Kable,
Landry). These colours will be available for                                                           founded the company Artemis Woman.
us$3 each through the month of October.                                                                She created the Healing Gems skin care line
   New Balance sportswear (stockists                                                                   to bring homeopathic gem therapy to women
at www.newbalance.com) has created a               rose and is decorated with a pink pearl and a       in the us. Gem therapy has been practised
Lace Up for the Cure Collection, which             pink ribbon of china.                               in non-western countries for some time. For
includes activewear and 12 shoe styles. Each           Another fun gift idea is the humorously         more information, call 1 805 565-4122.
shoe will feature an embroidered pink ribbon       titled new book B.O.O.B.S.: a Bunch of                 Bags for a Cure is a new handbag line
on the tongue of the shoe. The pink ribbon ap-     Outrageous Breast Cancer Survivors.                 from m.andoni Handbags. The line features
parel features 11 pieces including a visor, tank   This book details the stories of breast cancer      white or black bags adorned with a pink rib-
top and Ts, a fleece jacket and workout pants.      survivors who met at the Wellness Center, a         bon. For more information, go to www.mando-
   Seat-belt purses are the latest fashion         support programme for women dealing with            nia.com.                       continued on p. 115
phenomenon, and now BMW has created a
fashionable pink seat-belt cosmetic bag!
The zipper pull features bmw’s Drive for the
Cure logo. Bmw also offers a invigorating pink
yoga mat. The 24 by 68 in mat is available for
us$18, and the cosmetic bag is us$24; both
can be purchased at www.bmwonline.com or
at bmw dealers across the us.
   Bmw’s Ultimate Drive Program has raised
additional funds for cancer research for the
past eight years. For each mile driven in the
Ultimate Drive vehicles, a dollar is contributed
to the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer
Foundation. To sign up for a test drive, call
1-877 4a-drive.
   Lenox China has created some special
Gifts of Knowledge. The first item is a ivo-
ry china vase with a satin pink ribbon woven
through it. The other item is a pin which can
also be worn as a pendant. It features a single


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