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					                     SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS

                       December 4-5, 2003 New York Hilton Hotel, New York City
                        Annual Scientific Meeting program arranged by the Society’s Committee on Scientific Affairs
                                                            Ken Klein, Chair

                                     REGISTRATION INFORMATION
 FULL registration includes admission to the Technical Sessions, the Luncheons on Thursday and Friday, the Technology Showcase, and the Suppliers' Cocktail
 Reception on Thursday evening. STUDENT registration includes Technical Sessions and lunch on Thursday and Friday. NOT included in base registration are
 programs on Wednesday, December 3, 2003 and hotel accommodations.
 SPLIT registration allows two individuals from the same company to attend sessions; one to attend on Thursday and one to attend on Friday. SPLIT registration
 includes tickets for only those events scheduled on the day on which each individual registrant is attending. All split registrants must state the day on which each
 registrant will be attending. Split registration will be accepted until December 1st. There will be no split registration accepted at the door. UNEMPLOYED
 members are invited to attend the technical sessions free of charge; please report to the SCC Registration Desk for your name badge.
 NEW THIS YEAR - The Society is pleased to offer those companies who register numerous employees the following: For every 10 individuals registered (Full or
 Split), the company will receive one additional registration complimentary (Full or Split). For example, if a company registers 20 individuals, they will receive 2
 additional registrations (Full or Split) complimentary.
 HOTEL reservations should be made directly with the SCC National Office. The SCC Room Block and Rate at the New York Hilton & Towers are reserved
 through the National Office on a first-come-first-served basis. ABSOLUTELY NO HOTEL RESERVATIONS WILL BE MADE WITHOUT PAID RECEIPT
 OF ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING REGISTRATION FEES. Once the Registration fee is paid, then the National Office will secure a hotel room for the
 registrant at the New York Hilton. Only one room reservation per registrant will be accepted. Due to the high demand for hotel reservations over the weekend
 following the conference (Friday and Saturday) and limited number of rooms available on these nights, we recommend you make "back up" arrangements
 in the event that the SCC block becomes sold out. Please complete the hotel reservation form attached and include credit card information. The SCC is acting as
 the Housing Bureau in an attempt to be fair to those members and non-members who register to attend the Annual Meeting. After our registrants have been entered,
 then the room block will be opened for reservations. Confirmations will be sent approximately one month after your registration is received. If you send your
 registration in without a hotel form and decide later to request a room, your request will be handled in the order in which it is received. It will not matter if
 you have already registered for the meeting.
 TECHNOLOGY SHOWCASE PRESENTERS: Please see special note on the back page.
 REGISTRANTSmay pick up their registration material beginning Wednesday, December 3rd at the SCC Registration Desk between 4:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. Those
 registered for Wednesday's Programs may pick up their course registration material on Wednesday morning beginning at 8:00 a.m. outside the rooms scheduled for
 these sessions.

                                                      HOW TO REGISTER
COMPLETE the enclosed form and mail (with a check made payable to the SCC or credit card payment information) to Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 120 Wall
Street, Suite 2400, New York, NY 10005-4088. Type or print your name and company as you wish it to appear on your badge. Please make sure to include
your telephone number and company address. You must mail your check to the SCC National Office with a copy of the Registration Form so that proper credit can
be issued. FAXED registrations are only acceptable with credit card payment information included (212-668-1504). Meeting Registration Forms received
without the Hotel Reservation Form will not be registered at the New York Hilton.

Pre-Printed badges will be made available only to those who register prior to December 1, 2003. Registrants will be included on the Pre-Registration List of
Attendees after receipt of payment. Requests for refunds in writing and no later than November 15th will be granted, less a $50 service fee. Registration
fees are transferable to another registrant but not refundable after November 15, 2003.
The Society of Cosmetic Chemists cannot be held responsible for forms lost in the mail.


                                          SCIENTIFIC SESSION A
                                                       THURSDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2003
                                                           9:00 a.m. - 11:30 a.m.
                                                          SKIN PIGMENTATION
                                         Moderator - Ken Marenus, Ph.D., Estee Lauder Companies

Evidence and Utility of Melanin Degrading Enzymes                                                Thomas Mammone, Ph.D., Ken Marenus, Ph.D.,
                                                                                                    Neelam Muizzuddin and Daniel Maes, Ph.D.
                                                                                                           Estee Lauder Research Laboratories
      The biochemical synthesis of human melanin is understood in
 some detail. However, little is known about melanin degradation and           pulse labeling, samples of both the cells and media were taken at 2,
 catabolism of melanin. We hypothesize that human skin contains                4, 6 and 18 hours. Over these time periods the counts remaining in
 enzymes that degrade melanin and these enzymes can be used to                 the media and cell fraction were significantly decreased. This data
 reduce skin color.                                                            suggests the need for a new protein synthesis and the lysosome
                                                                               organelle function for the degradation.
      To test this hypothesis, HaCaT keratinocytes and normal human                  Melanin degrading extracts isolated from Aspergillus
 keratinocytes in culture were pulse labeled for one hour with radiola-        fumigatus and Saccharomyces cerevisiae were applied to human
 beled synthetic melanin. This melanin was synthesized in vitro using          skin. These extracts caused significant reduction in UVB induced
 tyrosinase enzyme from mushrooms and using radiolabeled [14C] 3,4-            pigmentation. These extracts may be useful in developing new
 dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) as a substrate. After the initial               whitening products to even skin color and tone.

Effect of Deoxyarbutin on Melanogenesis in Human                                                        Saja H. Hamed, Randall Wickettt, Ph.D.,
Melanocytes: In Vivo Comparison of Deoxyarbutin with                                                               and Raymond Boissy, Ph.D.
                                                                                                             University of Cincinnati College of
Other Melanogenesis Inhibitors                                                                        Pharmacy and Department of Dermatology

 Objectives: To investigate the cytotoxicity and the inhibitory effects        Results: DA was less cytotoxic to both light and dark human
 of Deoxyarbutin (DA); a new tyrosinase inhibitory agent, on melano-           melanocytes compared to HQ. DA caused tyrosinase inhibition
 genesis and to compare it with those of Hydroquinone (HQ), Arbutin,           accompanied by melanin content reduction. DA at the determined
 Kojic acid and 4-Tertiary butyl phenol (TBP) using normal human               concentration was a more effective enzyme inhibitor. There was no
 melanocytes.                                                                  significant difference in tyrosinase inhibiting potency of Arbutin,
                                                                               Kojic acid compared to cells treated with hydroquinone as
 Methods: The effect of the tested compounds on the viability of dark           determined by student t-test.
 and light cultured human melanocytes was determined using cell
 count and MTT assay. Melanin content, protein content and in                  Conclusion: The ability of Deoxyarbutin to inhibit pigmentation in
 situtyrosinase assay were determined after treating cultured human            melanocytes and to inhibit tyrosinase activity with reduced toxicity
 melanocytes with growth media containing various dosages of the test          relative to HQ establishes Deoxyarbutin as an excellent skin-
 compounds for 5 days.                                                         whitening agent.

The Enigma of Beauty                                                                                                                      Jodi Cobb
                                                                                                                                National Geographic

      What exactly is beauty and why are we so obsessed by it?                      Standards of attractiveness are surprisingly universal. All cul-
                                                                               tures value symmetry, clear skin and thick shiny hair – markers of
      Evolutionary scientists claim that recognition of beauty is an           youth, health and fertility. But that’s where the fun begins. From the
 ancient, innate and universal biological means to ensure the survival         exorbitant hair and makeup of the Huli wigmen of Papua New
 of the species. They say beauty is an advertisement for your value as a       Guinea to the bizarre tradition of footbinding in China, humans have
 mate, for the quality of your genes. Not everyone agrees. But we all          gone to obsessive, humorous and absurd lengths to achieve beauty,
 believe we know it when we see it.                                            or prolong it or fake it. Or exploit it. Jodi Cobb, a staff photographer
                                                                               at National Geographic for over 20 years, who has worked in more
                                                                               than 55 countries, will take you on a trip around the world and
                                                                               through the looking glass in search of answers to the enigma of

                               S C I E N T I F I C S E S S I O N B (concurrent)
                                                         THURSDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2003
                                                               1:30 p.m. - 4:00 p.m.
                                                   Moderator – Janusz Jachowicz, Ph.D., ISP

Effect of Hair Color on Luster                                                                    Karin Keis, Ph.D., Ram Ramaprasad, Ph.D. and
                                                                                                                            Yash Kamath, Ph.D.
                                                                                                                                 TRI Princeton
        In this work the interest is in instrumental luster evaluation of       and penetration depth into the fiber affect the absorptive and
  hair dyed to different hues and depths of shade to demonstrate the            scattering processes within the hair fiber to impact the luster.
  effect of color on luster. For natural hair colors, such as blond,            Results also show that it is not possible to assemble a luster scale
  brown, and black, the increase in luster is associated with decrease          from the measured CIELAB color parameters as suggested in litera-
  in diffusely scattered light as a result of light absorption by melanin       ture earlier. Finally, we make an attempt to study the effect of hair
  granules. On dyed hair the interpretation of data from goniopho-              color on subjective evaluation of luster. Equation for perceived
  tometer (GP) is more complicated. Using the colors covering the               luster, taking into account spectral sensitivity of human eye is
  extremes and middle of the visible spectrum, our results demonstrate          derived. Theoretical considerations show that the luster of hair of
  how dye composition (single or multi component), concentration,               different colors is perceived differently by the human eye.

Synergistic Effects of High Molecular Weight Polyethylene                                                          Wing Li and Susan L.P. Jordan
Oxide (PEO) and Cationic Cellulosic Polymers on Conditioning                                                Amerchol Corporation, A Subsidiary of
Properties of Hair Care Products                                                                                    The Dow Chemical Company

        High molecular weight polyethylene oxide (PEO) homopoly-                ulation containing PEO and cationic HEC than cationic HEC only.
  mers are known to increase the density and fullness of foam in sur-           When examined with a polarized microscope, the polymer-surfac-
  factant systems. They also impart a soft feel to skin and hair. In            tant complex (coacervate) of the diluted formulation was different
  addition, cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) polymers are well             in the presence of PEO. In particular, the particle size of the coac-
  known conditioning polymers used in shampoo systems. The syner-               ervate in the formulation containing PEO and cationic HEC is
  gistic performance of PEO with cationic HEC was investigated in a             smaller. This result indicates PEO reduces the size of the deposition
  recent study. A hair cleansing composition that contains both high            precipitate by preventing the coacervate from agglomerating,
  molecular weight PEO and cationic HEC was found to provide                    thereby helping to deposit more polymers onto the hair surface.
  superior conditioning performance, including ease of combing and              The dependence of these effects on surfactant system was also
  soft feel. These conclusions are based on both panel studies and              investigated. These results will make it possible to more effectively
  laboratory testing. More polymers were deposited from the form-               formulate shampoo systems with specific conditioning properties.

Cationic Conditioning Polymer Deposits on Hair                                                  Paquita Erazo-Majewicz, Ph.D. and Shu-Chun Su
                                                                                                      Aqualon Division of Hercules Incorporated

        Hair-conditioning polymers perform their function at the cuti-          extreme of a thick globular deposit appearance to the other extreme
  cle, or outer sheath of keratinized scales on the surface of the hair         of a thin uniform coating appearance. The form and location of the
  fiber. In shampoos, it is widely accepted that this process begins            cationic polymers deposited on the cuticle structure from aqueous
  with the formation of a complex composed of polymer and surfac-               solution was mapped out using CLSM in conjunction with specific
  tant that deposits from the formulation onto the hair fiber. The objec-       fluorescent probes that selectively bind to positive or negative
  tive of this study was to better understand the mechanism of cationic         charged surfaces. These results give insight into cationic polymer
  conditioning polymer deposition onto hair from shampoos and from              deposition from non-cleansing conditioning formulations.
  water. The behavior of Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,
  Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-7, and Polyquaternium-44 were                    Finally ESEM and CLSM images of conditioned hair after a
  examined.                                                                     rewashing treatment lend insight into the phenomenon of buildup.
                                                                                The conclusions from this study regarding the relationship between
        In this work, we found that the nondestructive techniques of            polymer composition (molecular weight, charge density, structure)
  environmental scanning electron microscopy (ESEM) and confocal                and the distribution and nature of cationic conditioning polymer
  laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) show that polymer-surfactant                 deposits on hair will be discussed.
  deposits on the hair cuticle can range in appearance from one

                                 SCIENTIFIC SESSION B                                                     cont’d.
African-American Hair Damage Characterization                                                                                   Diana Tang, Ph.D.
and Quantification                                                                                                  The L’Oreal Institute for Ethnic
                                                                                                                           Hair and Skin Research
       Hair damage is a major concern to most people of African                ™ Field-Emission Scanning Microscopy (FESM) of Hair Surface
  decent due to frequent chemical treatments, thermal appliance use              Morphology Study
  and environmental exposure. It is extremely important to both cos-
  metic scientists and African-American consumers to understand the            ™ Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) of Internal Hair
  internal and external hair damage caused by these factors.                     Morphology Study

                                                                               ™ Tensile Properties by Single Fiber Tensile Testing
       Hair damage, such as internal chemical bonding distortion, loss
  of mechanical tensile properties and hair cuticle surface disruption,
                                                                               ™ Hair Fatigue Analysis
  can be characterized by internal and external surface changes. Both
  internal and external disruption to hair can occur when hair is
                                                                               ™ Hair Delipidation Analysis
  impaired. Since the mechanisms and degrees of the damage may
  vary from different practices, several types of instrumental measure-
  ments are required. The characterization and quantification of
  African-American hair damage by the following instrumental tech-
  niques will be discussed in this presentation:

The Use of Silicones as a Color-Lock Aid                                                                                        Sabrina Marchioretto
in Rinse-Off Hair Conditioners                                                                                                  Dow Corning Europe

        Technology for permanent hair colorants has evolved signifi-           coupled with UV exposure cycles. A variety of silicone types were
  cantly over the past decade, and consumers have high expectations            evaluated in a prototype rinse-off conditioner, including amine-
  for these products. Bright, intense color that lasts without degrading       functional silicones, silicone elastomers, a silicone polyether, high
  through shampoos and normal wear is a must. The objective of this            molecular weight silicone emulsion and a silicone polyamide.
  study was to develop a method of measuring color maintenance, and            Color measurements were taken after exposure in the UV chamber,
  also to identify silicones that show potential for retaining permanent       and hair was evaluated for its sensory attributes.
                                                                                    Results of rinse-off conditioner evaluations indicate that sili-
       To determine color beauty versus time, color measurements               cones show excellent potential for their ability to aid color lock for
  were taken with a colorimeter, and evaluations were conducted for            permanent hair color products. Similar studies are in progress with
  sensory characteristics such as shine, wet detangling, combing and           shampoos to evaluate the usefulness of silicones in maintaining the
  flyaway. To replicate the normal conditions of wear and shampoo-             color of permanent-colored hair.
  ing over time, a protocol was developed to include up to six wash

                              S C I E N T I F I C S E S S I O N C * (concurrent)
                                                        THURSDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2003
                                                              1:30 p.m. - 4:00 p.m.
                                      Moderator – Mindy S. Goldstein, Ph.D., Estee Lauder Companies

* Note this Session will accommodate 75 individuals on a first-come, first-serve basis only. Individuals
interested in attending this session should check the box on the registration form. There is no additional
fee to attend this session.

                                                                                                                          Mindy S. Goldstein, Ph.D.
Skin Structure and Biochemistry:
                                                                                                                           Estee Lauder Companies
A Brief Introduction and Overview

  The session will open with a brief introduction and overview of Skin Structure and Biochemistry.

                                       S C I E N T I F I C S E S S I O N C cont’d
Basics of the Skin Structure                                                                                                R. Randall Wickett, Ph.D.
                                                                                                        University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy

       Nearly all cosmetic products come into contact with the Stratum            formation of new epidermal keratinocytes from epidermal stem cells
  Corneum (SC) whether we want them to or not. Thus understanding                 will be discussed very briefly. The lecture will focus mostly on the
  the SC is vital to understanding the interaction of cosmetic products           changes that occur at and above the granular layer leading to the
  with the skin. In this lecture the structure of the epidermis and the           formation of the Stratum Corneum permeability barrier. The perme-
  formation of the Stratum Corneum barrier will be reviewed. The                  ability barrier itself will be discussed in terms of the basic bricks and
                                                                                  mortar model.

The Ins and Outs of Photoprotection Technologies                                                                                     Daniel Maes, Ph.D.
                                                                                                                                Estee Lauder Companies

       Together with the increased awareness of the damages caused by                  More recently new technological developments have allowed us
  exposure to the sun, there has been a constant evolution of the                 to enhance the cells’ own ability to protect themselves from the
  technologies that protect the skin from the premature aging process             damages caused by UV light. Heat Shock Protein induction, restora-
  caused by exposure to the UV light.                                             tion of Catalase activity, increase in Glutathione level in the cells are
                                                                                  the new technologies that can be used in cosmetic products to
        Clearly over the past 15 years, there has been a clear evolution          provide stronger and longer lasting protection than with sunscreens
  in providing longer-lasting and broader protection benefits, by marry-          alone.
  ing the effects of sunscreens with the activity of topical anti-oxidants.
  Using such technologies in daily moisturizers has been an important                  We propose to review the evolution of these protection
  step in providing consumers with stronger protection benefits.                  technologies, and to evaluate the practical benefits they provide to
                                                                                  the consumers.

The Extracellular Matrix – From Structural                                                                                    Sanford R. Simon, Ph.D.
Resilience to Modulation of Cell Functions                                                               State University of New York at Stony Brook

       The components of the extracellular matrix of the skin have been           transformation, and wound healing. Dysregulation of cell-matrix
  recognized for their roles in maintaining structural integrity. More            interactions is often associated with modifications introduced by
  recently, a number of matrix proteins have been identified which do             secreted and cell-associated proteolytic enzymes, the levels of which
  not participate directly in structural stabilization but which interact         are in turn controlled by receptors for matrix components.
  with the cellular components of skin. These cell-matrix interactions            Interventions intended to control proteolytic activity may help to
  are critical for maintenance of normal cell functions; altered interac-         restore normal crosstalk between cells and extracellular matrix in
  tions between the matrix and keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and inflamma-          the skin and may support restoration of normal skin structure.
  tory cells are implicated in such diverse processes as aging, neoplastic

                                  S C I E N T I F I C S E S S I O N D (concurrent)
                                                              FRIDAY, DECEMBER 5, 2003
                                                                 9:00 a.m. - 11:30 a.m.
                                                    Moderator - J Nash, Ph.D. Procter & Gamble

 Addressing the Needs of Ethnic Skin                                                                                             Victoria Holloway, M.D.
                                                                                                                                    The L’Oreal Institute
 SPONSORED BY RUGER CHEMICAL CORPORATION                                                                               for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research

       The United States is becoming increasingly ethnically diverse,             different racial backgrounds. These differences will be reviewed.
  and more reflective of the world’s population. As an industry, we               Though some of these findings are of unclear significance, others
  must be responsive to the skincare needs and desires of this varied             result in conditions and diseases that affect ethnic populations
  group. In order to do so, we must be aware not only of the cultural             uniquely or disproportionately. These conditions will be discussed. It
  aspects of skincare, but also of the fundamental differences in                 is important for the cosmetic chemist to be familiar with the
  structure and function noted in comparing the skin of people from               specific properties of ethnic skin and the particular needs and
                                                                                  concerns of diverse populations so that appropriate products can be

                                         S C I E N T I F I C S E S S I O N D cont’d

The Impact of Cosmetic Dermatology                                                                                                    Zoe Diana Draelos, MD
on Skin Care and Cosmetics                                                                                                     Dermatology Consulting Services

        There are several new dermatologic procedures that may impact                   obliterate facial folds. To keep abreast of changes in the appearance-
  the approach the cosmetic chemist takes to new product development                    related market, new cosmetics and skin care products must compli-
  and formulation. These cosmetic dermatology procedures include                        ment the wide array of consumer driven anti-aging procedures. This
  the use of botulinum toxin for chemodenervation, microdermabrasion                    presentation will discuss the cosmetic dermatology research conduct-
  for enhanced mechanical exfoliation, chemical peels for minimiza-                     ed by the presenter in her clinical facility focusing on those aspects
  tion of pigmentary problems, laser for permanent hair removal, pho-                   relevant to cosmetic development. Issues regarding opportunities for
  totherapy for improvement in skin texture, autologous fat transfer to                 new products and procedure induced alterations in the physiology of
  alter facial contour, and either temporary or permanent implants to                   skin performance will be explored.

Biochemical and Bioengineering Analysis of the Skin’s                                                                                       Marisa Robinson
Natural Moisturizing Factors                                                                                    University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy
       Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) levels are important deter-
  minates of skin condition. However, few studies have been done                        ments for at least four hours post-soak. NMF levels were determined
  investigating the effects of simple skin treatments such as soaking                   by free amino acid analysis, using High Performance Liquid
  and bathing on NMF. We report the effects of soaking the skin on                      Chromatography (HPLC). Bioengineering methods included water
  NMF levels and on bioengineering measurements. We found that                          sorption/desorption and moisture accumulation tests using the Nova
  soaking the skin reduced NMF levels and altered bioengineering                        DPM and skin pH.

Prevention of Skin Inflammation                                                                 Nava Dayan, Ph.D., Geraldine Guyard and Jed Reimer
Triggered by Cosmetic Products                                                                                                  Lipo Chemicals, Inc

        Topical application of cosmetic products may provoke skin irrita-                     The current study is designed to compare the performance of
  tion and lead to skin inflammation. Among ingredients that can trigger                different naturally derived anti-inflammatory actives when applied to
  a cascade of biochemical inflammatory events are preservatives and                    the skin. The biochemical mechanisms of action that will be compared
  fragrances.                                                                           and discussed are: the arachidonic acid cascade, enzyme inhibition, and
                                                                                        cell receptor mediated events.
       Molecules that interfere with the maintenance of an intact stratum
  corneum such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids, ethanol and retinoic                         While Glycyrrhetinic acid inhibits 11-HSD to prevent transforma-
  acid derivatives are also likely to lead into skin inflammation.                      tion of cortisol to cortisone, Bisabolol inhibits 5-lipoxygenase.
       These compounds can cause phase transformation in the skin lipid                      Sea Whip Extract works in inhibiting three major pathways:
  bilayer, or affect the desmosomal connection between corneocytes.                     receptor interaction, PLA 2 and 5-lipoxygenase.
      The result can be either primary irritation or allergic contact
  dermatitis. These reactions differ by appearance, skin damage intensity,
  population affected, time of reaction and area of inflammation.

The Fibronectin Network During Aging:                                                                        E. Perrier, F. Pivard, S. Grenier and V. Andre
A Missing Cell Connectivity
        The connective tissue of the skin has been extensively studied but is still     level of fibronectin, that are relevant and comparable between in vitro and ex
  poorly understood. The main scaffolds, namely the collagen and the elastic net-       vivo experiments? If we modulate the fibronectin content of the extracellular
  works, are now more or less elucidated as far as their three-dimensional organi-      matrix, what are the main biological properties observed, and which type of cos-
  zation and functions are concerned. For instance, collagen molecules are able to      metic activity could we demonstrate in vivo, in final cosmetic formulations?
  be assembled into collagen fibrils and then fibers that are responsible for                 It has been discovered that fibronectin should be studied while using a full
  mechanical properties of the skin. On the other hand, the complex elastic fibers      reconstructed skin model only, the other models being irrelevant compared to the
  network is also tremendously important for the plasticity of the skin, and plays      results obtained ex vivo. In this work, the decrease of the fibronectin content
  a pivotal role in the intrinsic and UV-related aging phenomena. A third network       while aging has been demonstrated, and a miniaturized test has been devolved to
  has been poorly studied until now but is also essential to the connective tissue      screen from more than 600 extracts and compounds, the most effective ones for
  organization as well as the cell-cell and cell-matrix interactions: the fibronectin   the stimulation of fibronectin synthesis. Resulting products have been used in a
  network. Poorly studied until now, we have decided to investigate the expres-         3D reconstructed cellular model, where artificial wounds have been created to
  sion of this protein using monolayer and 3D fibroblast-based cell cultures such       mimic the loss of matrix components observed in a wrinkle structure. In these
  as reconstructed dermis and reconstructed full skin, using cells extracted from       models, cell migration via fibronectin connections, and cell multiplication are
  human biopsies coming with "young" and "mature" donors. How fibronectin is            able to be observed and quantified. Anti-wrinkles results obtained in vivo on 20
  expressed while aging ? Are there some age-related relationships concerning the       volunteers have confirmed the in vitro observations of these studies.

                                S C I E N T I F I C S E S S I O N E (concurrent)

                                                           FRIDAY, DECEMBER 5, 2003
                                                               9:00 a.m. - 11:30 a.m.
                                                 MATERIALS AND DELIVERY
                                                      Moderator – Mark Chandler, Uniqema

Improving Antifungal Activity of Zinc                                                                Diana Ciccognani1, Ph.D., George Polson1, Ph.D.,
Pyrithione Through Particle Coating Technology                                             David Lei , Ph.D., Kevin DiNicola1, Richard Shalvoy1, Ph.D.,

                                                                                                       Jorje Arrese2, Ph.D., and Gerald Pierard 2, Ph.D.
                                                                                                                             Arch Personal Care Products
                                                                                                                  University Medical Center Sart Tilman

       Zinc pyrithione is an FDA approved anti-dandruff active, which is                Different techniques were used to make coated particles and the
 known to be effective against many microorganisms including                      resulting particles were fully characterized for activity and surface
 Malassezia sp., which are the major cause of dandruff. Malassezia sp.            properties. Corneofungimetry, an ex-vivo bioassay was used to
 are lipophilic yeasts that are found on the scalp. It was hypothesized           determine relative antifungal efficacy of the various coated particles.
 that by adding an appropriate coating to zinc pyrithione particles it            Cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings treated with the coated zinc
 might be possible to enhance the chemical, physical, and biological              pyrithione particles were inoculated with Malassezia furfur and
 properties of their antifungal active.                                           inhibition of growth was compared using computerized image analysis
                                                                                  and vital staining. The data showed some coatings improved antifungal

Optical Characteristics of Titanium Oxide Interference                                   Hiroshi Sasaki, Takahiro Kaida, Kota Kobayashi, Azuma
Film and the Film Laminated with the Oxides and                                                         Yanagida, Yukio Murui and Fukuji Suzuki
their Applications for Cosmetics                                                                             Nihon Koken Kogyo Company, LTD

       Titanium dioxide is safety on skin and it is a main material used           layer on the plate like substrate mica surface shows the excellent optical
 for make-up cosmetics. However it also offers the other problem of                characteristics such as vivid interference color and flip-flop effects,
 unfavorable effects on skin such as applicability and unnatural finishing.        superior UV scattering characteristic, moderate covering and pho-
 By controlling particle size and thickness, we have developed an                  tochromic effect which are evaluated by SEM, TEM, XRD, defection
 extremely thin flaky titanium dioxide. The newly developed thin film              spectrophotometer and UV altimeter. It also has a smooth use and feel-
 titanium dioxide composed with a heating hydrolysis method of titanyl             ing in comparison with common titanium dioxide and maicaceous pearl
 sulfate being prepared by the precipitation of the titanium compound              pigment.

Topical Vitamin E: What Form and Homologue                                                 Brent Flickinger, Ph.D., J.J. Mathieu and Janice Binger
of Tocopherol Matter?                                                                                                      Archer Daniels Midland

       This review focuses on personal care products containing vitamin                Consistently, non-alpha tocopherols are present in skin to varying
 E and the implications of the vitamin E form on topical antioxidant effi-        degrees ranging from 10-20% of total tocopherols. In human skin, a
 cacy. Many products include vitamin E in their formulation. Mintel               recent report suggests that the ratio of alpha to gamma is ~10:1 which is
 GNPDB lists -4500 skin care products, alone, containing vitamin E.               typical of the ratio found in serum. Levels of alpha- and gamma-toco-
 Most list alpha-tocopheryl acetate as their vitamin E ingredient because         pherols correlate well with the skin’s ability to scavenge free radicals
 it is non-reactive and stable. When ingested, tocopheryl acetate is              but not with the ability to protect against doses of UV that causes sun-
 hydrolyzed to the active alcohol form of vitamin E. Similarly, many              burn. Non-alpha tocopherols (gamma and delta) appear to provide skin
 studies in topical applications have shown that the alcohol form is more         protection from UV to an equal degree as alpha-tocopherol as measured
 effective in protecting skin against the damage from UV radiation. In            by thymine dimer formation using a mouse skin model.
 topical applications, the tocopheryl acetate form of vitamin E appears
 inert and ineffective in many reports.

                                           S C I E N T I F I C S E S S I O N E cont’d

Cleansing and Release by Novel Nanogel Carriers                                                            P. Somasundaran, Ph.D., F. Liu and C.C. Gryte
                                                                                           National Science Foundation I/UR Center, Langmuir Center for
                                                                                                             Colloids and Interfaces, Columbia University

       Design of personal care products for controlled release of actives or              nanogels show enhanced binding capacity for selected organic molecules, com-
removal of undesired secretions involves transport of the carrier onto the skin or        pared to the unmodified polyacrylamide nanogel. Released of tested absorbed
the hair, deposition in response to dilution or changes in pH, temperature or             organic species was obtained by dilution. These nanogels, as a type of carriers,
salinity and release of the actives at a controlled rate. New polymeric nanogels          exhibit flexibility for tailoring for different applications. By combining the
provide an efficient means to fulfil these requirements when appropriately mod-           effects of the cross linking density and functional groups, nanogels can provide
ified to interact with the desired actives.                                               efficient delivery and release for active molecules.

       Polyacrylamide nanogels, a type of nanosized, cross linked particles, have               Mechanisms controlling the uptake and release are elucidated by examin-
been synthesized towards this purpose using inverse microemulsion polymeriza-             ing the interactions involved between the functional groups on the nanogels and
tion. These water-soluble, sponge-like nanogels are very small in size (50                the actives. The ratio of surface to interiors sites is a critical factor determining
nanometers) and have vast amounts of interstitial space between the polymer               the efficiency of the extraction and release and this can be controlled by chang-
chains. By performing systematic chemical modifications to the nanogel, using             ing degree of cross linking as well as the size of the nanogels. In addition, parti-
a two-step postgrafting strategy, hydrophobic nanogels, ionic nanogels, and               tioning of the species between the surface and the interior is a function of many
dually modified nanogels that have both hydrophobic and ionic groups (chemi-              parameters including the size and configuration of the species and the changes in
cally bonded to the nanogel backbone) have been produced. The modified                    them.

                                                  SCIENTIFIC SESSION F
                                                                    FRIDAY, DECEMBER 5, 2003
                                                                         1:30 p.m. - 4:00 p.m.
                                                                GENERAL COSMETICS
                                                   Moderator - Dr. Randy Wickett, University of Cincinnati

Advanced Histological Technology and Three-Dimensional Imaging:                                 Gilles Pauly, Ph.D., MD Vazquez-Duchene, D. Gauche, JL
A Fruitful Partnership to Visualize the Human Skin Micro-anatomy                                 Contet-Audonneau, C. Jeanmaire, L. Danoux and O. Freis
and Changes in Cutaneous Structures                                                                                        Laboratoires Serobiologiques

         The recent development of technologies in immuno-histochemistry, con-                          Reconstruction of model dermis obtained from serial sections enables
   focal microscopy and imagery have allowed to go deeper in the knowledge of               us to extract fibroblasts and visualize chondroitin sulfate secretion into and
   skin and hair micro-anatomy either in morphological or functional level.                 around fibroblasts by transparency effect.

        Advanced 3D imagery of skin using confocal serial sections provides now                    The 3D animated representations improve our understanding of skin
   unprecedented insights into the architectural organization of skin and allows to         micro-anatomy, give convincing arguments, increase realistic perception of
   reconstruct cutaneous structures in 3D.                                                  results. It is an extraordinary visual and analytical tool of discovery for the skin.

          In addition, we developed applications to extract cellular elements as
   Langerhans cell or melanocyte from its epidermal context, to perceive depth by
   rotating and translating objects.

Puffy Eyes: A Multi-factorial Cosmetic Problem                                                        Karl Lintner, Ph.D.,Claire Mas Chamberlain, Philippe
Needs a Multi-Thronged Solution                                                                              Mondon, Olivier Peschard and Francois Lamy

       "Puffy eyes" are a well-known aesthetic problem for the aging population.      pumping frequency of the striated muscles around the lymph nodes. As tissular
It is not possible to define a single cause for the slight swelling, the slackening   bradykinin concentration is controlled by the proteolytic enzyme ACE, the use of
of the skin, the occasional redness and sensitivity of the area immediately           Val-Trp dipeptide as ACE inhibitor leads indirectly to improved lymphatic
beneath the eyes. Three symptoms/causes: age induced capillary fragility that         drainage through maintenance of the bradykinin pool. In vivo the concept of the
leads to leakage of blood serum into the surrounding tissue, causing a local          combination of these active ingredients was tested on a panel of 20 volunteers,
mini-oedema that together with skin thinning, slackening and absence of effi-         using the method of interference fringe pattern projection (3D topometry).
cient lymphatic drainage generates the ‘bags’. A combination of hesperidine           One/two months application of a gel containing these molecules (1500, 9 and 30
chalcone with the peptides Pal-GQPR and VW was investigated as these ingre-           ppm respectively) lead to visible and measurable significant reduction in the
dients address the major causes/symptoms. Hesperidine chalcone reduces leak-          bulges of the skin under the eyes.
age of blood vessels through Vitamin P activity. Pal-GQPR (Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-
Pro-Arg) has immune-modulating and anti-inflammatory activity (in vitro it
reduces the secretion of IL6 in dose-dependent manner). Bradykinin is a vasodi-
latating peptide that also stimulates lymphatic drainage by increasing the

                                           S C I E N T I F I C S E S S I O N F cont’d.

Categorical Evaluation of the Ocular Irritancy of Cosmetic Yang Gao, MD, Kelly Lockwood, and Bruce Kanengiser, MD
and Consumer Products by Human Ocular Instillation                               Clinical Research Laboratories, Inc.
       The assessment of ocular irritation potential is an important part of safety   and 120 minutes post-instillation. Subjective and objective ocular irritation
testing for cosmetic and consumer products. The purpose of this investigation         scores of 410 eyes were analyzed by product classification. Average score levels
was to examine ocular irritancy levels elicited by various categories of a specif-    and/or the proportions of eyes exhibiting irritation scores were determined for
ic class of cosmetic and consumer products, which have a potential to inadver-        subjective responses, inflammation and fluorescein staining patterns. This inves-
tently enter the eye during use. Test materials assessed belonged to 1 of 7 cate-     tigation determined that irritation levels of the evaluated test materials varied
gories, which included liquid makeup, shampoo, baby wash, mascara, eye                markedly, with respect to product category, type of ocular irritation and ocular
makeup remover, powder eye shadow and facial cleanser. These test materials           irritation and ocular tissue, demonstrating that these factors are important
were evaluated by human ocular instillation followed by examinations, for             considerations for the prediction of the ocular irritancy of a test material.
which subjective perceptions of irritation were recorded, and component areas
of ocular tissues were individually examined for inflammation and for the area
and density of fluorescein staining patterns, at 30 seconds, and at 5, 15, 60

In Vitro Prediction of Sunscreens’ PFA Values                                                                 Olga Dueva, Ph.D., James SaNogueira, Ovidiu
                                                                                                                  Romanoschi, Ph.D. and Barbara Donovan
                                                                                                                                     Playtex Products, Inc.
      UVA protection of sunscreens is determined by PFA method based on               by UVA1 wavelength band. Key differences are: the integration area of 340-400
persistent pigment darkening (PPD). It was adapted by JCIA as an official             nm (UVA1) utilized in this method; substrate; application dose; mathematical
method and is often used in the USA. Time of UVA exposure during PFA                  model. This method has been evaluated: in PFA studies of twelve commercial
testing of a sunscreen is based on its estimated PFA value. Thus, correct             sunscreens containing organic and inorganic actives that were conducted in two
assessment of PFA range of the test product is critical for the accuracy of           testing labs; by retrospective analysis of the results from CTFA round-robin
in-vivo tests.                                                                        study.

      The proposed in-vitro prediction of sunscreen’s PFA values                             It was found that it provides superior in-vitro/in-vivo correlation and is
integrates and optimizes methodologies described by Chardon A. et al.                 equally applicable to the sunscreens with low, medium and high PFA values,
-1997, Moyal D. et al.. and Wendel V. et al.. -2001 and is based on                   thus it is recommended as a preliminary step before PFA tests.
scientific evidence regarding skin biological response to the irradiation

                            CONTINUING EDUCATION PROGRAMS

                                                               INTERNATIONAL REGULATORY
                                                      Instructed by Ken Marenus, Ph.D. and David Steinberg
                                                      Wednesday, December 3, 2003 * 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

Description: This course will focus on understanding the regulations of cosmetics in the European Union, cosmetics and quasi-drugs in Japan and
finally a report on the 7th Mutual Understanding Conference on global regulations held in October 20-22 in Japan. Amongst the topics under
Europe will be an overview of the Cosmetic Directive, how the Directive is changed, the 7th Amendment and how this will affect US companies.
What is contained in the Product Information Package (Dossier) and finally correct labeling of products. The topics covered about Japan include the
definitions of cosmetics and quasi-drugs and how they are regulated, the positive list of preservatives, colors and UV filters, the restricted list and
the prohibited list. Finally an overview of the important announcements and proposals that took place at the Harmonization Conference will be

For a detail course outline please visit the Education Course Section of the SCC Website,

                                                     SKIN SCIENCE FOR THE COSMETIC CHEMIST
                                                           Instructed by R. Randall Wickett, Ph.D.
                                                     Wednesday, December 3, 2003 * 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

Description: A basic to intermediate course on the structure and function of skin focusing on the Stratum Corneum (SC) and interactions of
surfactants and moisturizers on SC structure and function.

For a detail course outline please visit the Education Course Section of the SCC Website,

                       2003 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING
                                                   REGISTRATION FORM
                                             2003 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING                                                      #________
    Type or print your name and company as you wish it to appear on your badge, complete and mail with check or credit card information to:
                SCC, 120 Wall Street, Suite 2400, New York, NY 10005-4088, (212) 668-1500, Fax: (212) 668-1504

NAME (Full Registration)
Phone (        )                                                    Fax (           )

NAMES (Split Registration):

Thursday                                                           Phone (      )                       Fax (    )

Friday                                                             Phone (      )                       Fax (    )

Company                                                            Email

                                                   REGISTRATION FEE                     REGISTRATION FEE
                                                   Before November 15th                 After November 15th*
   Member                                                 $510.00                              $550.00                     $
   Non-Member                                             $630.00                              $670.00                     $
   Split Registration-MEMBER                              $570.00                              $570.00                     $
   Split Registration-NON-MEMBER                          $690.00                              $690.00                     $
   Full Time Student                                      $200.00                              $200.00                     $
   Additional Cocktail Reception Ticket                    $50.00                              $50.00                      $
  *Onsite Registration Fee will be $575 for Members and $700 for Non Members.

  L Please register me for Session B - Back to Basics – Skin Structure & Biochemistry.
     I understand that this session is limited to 75 individuals, first-come, first-serve.

                                          CONTINUING EDUCATION PROGRAM
                            Wednesday, December 3, 2003 * 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.* Courses Are Limited

           International Regulatory                       Member:                       $300.00                            $
                                                          Non-Member:                   $400.00                            $

           Skin Science for the Cosmetic Chemist          Member:                       $300.00                            $
                                                          Non-Member:                   $400.00                            $

 Payment Information                                                                    TOTAL ENCLOSED:                    $

 Circle Choice: Check (made payable to SCC)                         Visa                MasterCard                American Express

 Card No.                                                                               Exp. Date



 SCC USE: Received_________                     Amount_________               Check #________           Charge date __________

                     2003 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING

                                    HOTEL RESERVATION FORM
                               NEW YORK HILTON & TOWERS HOTEL
                            1335 AVENUE OF THE AMERICAS, NY, NY 10019
                          ROOM BLOCK AVAILABLE FROM DECEMBER 3-5, 2003


Name                                                  Company

Phone (          )                                              Fax (       )


Please reserve a room for me at the New York Hilton:

______     Single Room:       $339.00 per night              ______     Towers Single Room:       $369.00 per night

______     Double Room:       $339.00 per night              ______     Towers Double Room:       $389.00 per night

I prefer a           ______   Smoking                 ______ Non-Smoking room

I am checking in on ________________________________________, 12/______, and
                                 Day of the week

checking out on ___________________________________________, 12/______ for _____ room nights.
                                Day of the week

Hilton Honors Membership # ________________________

In order to secure a room reservation and guarantee late arrival, a credit card is necessary

Circle Choice:

Visa         MasterCard             American Express        Carte Blanche           Diners Club          Discover

Card No.                                                                Exp. Date


SCC USE: Received_________               Input_________    Sent to NY Hilton________          Confirmation __________



The Board of Directors is pleased to announce a change in the format for this year’s Annual Dinner
Dance held in conjunction with the Annual Scientific Meeting. Over the past several years, the
Dinner Dance held on Thursday evening honored the winner of the Maison G. de Navarre Medal
Award. This is the highest honor bestowed by the Society. This year, this award will be given at the
Awards luncheon on Thursday afternoon. The Suppliers Cocktail Party normally held prior to the
Dinner Dance will now become an extended Cocktail Reception held in the Grand Ballroom of the
New York Hilton. The event will run from 6:30 p.m. until 10:30 p.m. with food and beverage being
served until 9 p.m. Music provided by the Ric Mango Orchestra and a DJ will be played
continuously until 10:30 p.m. allowing for a full evening of dancing.

It is hoped that this new format will encourage all attendees to participate in the reception and still
be able to make commitments for additional social/business functions for later in the evening or just
stay and dance the night away.

                               FRIDAY AFTERNOON DRAWING

Please make plans to attend the Friday Afternoon Session, General Cosmetics, for a chance to win a
free registration to the upcoming SCC Annual Seminar at Mohegan Sun in May 2004. Each
attendee will receive a chance to win. At the end of the session, the drawing will be made. The
winner must be present to claim their prize. This is a great opportunity to win a registration (valued
at over $500) to the next scientific seminar.

                                  TECHNOLOGY SHOWCASE

The SCC Technology Showcase will be held on Thursday, December 4th from 9:00 a.m. until 4:30
p.m. The Technology Showcase provides a forum for the chemists and scientists of suppliers and
contract laboratories serving the personal care industry to present their most recent developments in
a poster format. The Technology Showcase is limited to 90 posters. All Meeting Registrants are
invited to attend this poster session.

                                     **IMPORTANT NOTE**

If you will be presenting a poster on behalf of your company, please register as soon as possible. In
this manner you will be able to obtain the necessary hotel accommodations, if required. The SCC is
not holding rooms for Technology Showcase Presenters. Rooms are assigned on a first-come, first-
serve basis until the room block is full. As a decision on the Technology Showcase is not made
until after the October 1st deadline for abstract submissions, it is important for you to register as
early as possible. Presenters that are registered will deduct their fee paid (member or nonmember)
from the Technology Showcase Fee when the invoice is sent in October.


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