Bishop Peak Bouldering

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					                                       Other Boulders
There are several other boulders on Bishop Peak which host a few problems on their textured
            faces, see the trail map on page 3 for their locations, or ask a local...

                                        Trail Boulders:

    Just before leaving the trees and entering the field you will see several boulders stacked
   next to each other, and a trail heading to the left. The most obvious route, is a short edge
 heading up the side of the boulder closest to the fork in the trails. If you take the trail to the
 left, it will lead you through he trees, past several good slack-linning spots, and past several’
   short boulders with possible traverse problems on them, although nothing to write home

                                   The Traverse Boulder:                                                 presents
As you enter the field, there is a large dike/earthen berm to your left, with a small pond behind
 it, as you make your way around, a trail will appear on the right, heading down through the
 trees, and the faint outline of rock is visible through the foliage. Head down the trail about
  20 feet to access the climbable side of this usually ignored boulder. The best problem is to
traverse along the face several feet from the ground. There are plenty of holds, ranging from
  slopers and buckets to thin edges and rails. Use your imagination to create a route that fits

                                                                                                      Bishop Peak

    The hummingbird boulder as seen as you approach it from the climber trail in the woods.
          Very identifiable by the collection of wood boards located at the walk-off...

                                                                                                       by Austin Moore
                                            page 12
Bishop Peak, CA                                                                                                                                 The Potato Boulder
                                                                                                                    A large boulder located in the trees on the right side of the trail.
Bishop Peak hosts a few good sized boulders,                                                                      There are several bolts on top for a top rope, a machete is also useful
each with multiple problems which are sure to                                                                                 although I have cleared out a good sized path
keep most climbers busy for several weekends, or at             Sacremento
least one good afternoon session. Presently there are
no access issues as all the boulders are located on
public access land. Please stay on the trails and be
respectful of the land and the access will stay open for              Bishop Peak
generations to come. The trails are open from dawn to

How to get there: Bishop peak, not to be confused with the town
                                                                                                                                                  Fire Road
of Bishop, is located in Beautiful San Luis Obispo, in Central California,
off the 101. To get to the Bouldering area, take the Hwy 1/Santa Rosa St. exit from
101. Head north toward Morro Bay on Santa Rosa/Hwy 1. After a mile or so you
will come to the entrance to Cal Poly University on your Right, and Highland Drive
on the left. Turn onto Highland and follow it up the hill to a cul-de-sac at the end of
the drive. Parking is permitted on only one side of the street (the right side if you are                                                            1
driving back down...) and the trail head is marked by a large sign at the end of the
road.                                                                                                                                                                                   10’ Downclimb
When: You can expect to run into crowds on the weekends. Many people use bishop                                                                          3
as a place to hike or run, and there is also sport/TR climbing on the hill further up the                                                                4
trail. The climate in SLO is very mild and many of the boulders are in the shade. If
your looking for some solitude, then steer clear of Pete and Clorrisa which while
hosting the most and best problems, also draw the most climbers. My favorite time to
climb is around 4:30 in the afternoon while it is still warm, but the sun has started to                                                                         6
set behind the mountain.

Eat and sleep: San Luis Obispo, or SLO as we call it, is home to an easy living type
of climber, and generally friendly atmosphere. The Downtown area on Higuera
Street is the best place to people watch and grab a bite to eat at one of the local
sandwich shops. Gus’s Deli on Osos Street and High Street Deli are the two best
places in town for a quick sandwich. Woodstocks Pizza has good eats and beer.
Yanagi’s has the best sushi in town and is located at the corner of Johnson and Marsh.
If your looking to camp, Montana de Oro has a nice campground with tent spots and                                                                                                                                 F R
                                                                                                                                         F R                         4. The Flake                                         V2
a beach close by.                                                                           1. Left Edge                                       V1                      Route goes up the left facing flake, pretty sustained.
                                                                                              About 5 feet to left of the large bulge.                                                                            F R
Guidebooks: If your looking to do some additional climbing in the area then stop by                                                      F R                         5. Dyno-Sore                                         V4
one of two climbing shops in town; Mountain Air Sports is located downtown on               2. Unnamed                                         V1                      Start on steep tall section of rock, up a few feet on sidepulls, dyno
                                                                                              Just left of the bulge.                                                  to a square looking pinchy hold, then up to the top... highball
Marsh Street and has climbing books, movies and gear. The definitive guide for the                                                       F R
                                                                                                                                                                       about 25’
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    F R
area, referred to the locals as the “Tom Slater Guide” after its author, is called          3. Bulge                                           V2                    6. The Potato Bug                                    V1
“California, Central Coast Climbs, San Luis Obispo” and has climbs ranging from               Fairly obvious route up edges to small overhang and top out.              Inquisition
Wagon Caves several hours north, to Silly Rock, about an hour south... and                                                                                             Several feet to the right of Dyno-Sore, head up obvious crack seam
                                                                                                                                                                       thingy. The tallest “Boulder” route in the area...
everything in between.

                                          page 2                                                                                                         page 11
                                                                 Hummingbird                                                                                                            Overview
            Approach from the main trail. Two boulders side by side offer several short problems.

                                                                                                                                                                  Fir          The Potato
                                                                                                                                                                        oa      (page 4)

                                                   Walk-off                                                                                               Boulder

                                                                                                Walk-off                                                  Fence
                                                                                                                                                          Water                                                                                Feldman Loop
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  ge                           Trail
                                 1                                                                                                                        Trees
                                                                                                                   7                                      Trail
                                                                      2          4
                                                                                            5             6                                                                           Clorissa
                                                                                                                    8                                                                 (page 4)

                                                F R                                                                       F R
1. Training Ground                                       V0                5. Unnamed                                             V2                                               Pete
  This lumpy portion offers several easy routes to the top.                  SDS - Start on large rail, pull up to side pulls and finally a large                                (page 6)                                 Valley
                                                F R                          juggy finish.
                                                                                                                          F R
2. Slot                                                  V6                6. Back Scratcher                                      V1
  Start at angled sloper slot left of tree, traverse in front of tree to     Up the taller part of the boulder using large holds. A tree branch
  right and use dish to top.                                                 sticks out over the boulder waiting to snag the unwary climber.
                                                 F R
3. Mantle                                                V1                                                               F R
  Description                                                              7. Unnamed                                             V3                                                                                                                  Traverse
                                                F R                          A tricky problem up the side of the boulder.                                                                            ce                                               Boulder
4. Pinches                                               V3                                                               F R                                                                    F                                                    (no topo)
  Use the sloping face to mantle to the easy top out.                      8. Traverse                                            V4
                                                                             Start at #7, stay low on rail, then go up Pinches.

                                                                                                                                                          (page 10)                                           Trail Boulder
                                                                                                                                                                                                                (no topo)


                                                                                                                                                                                     Boulder in the Woods
                                                                                                                                                                                           (page 8)                                             Dr


                                                                                                                                                                                                          4                         Hi

                                                                     page 10                                                                                                             page 3
                                            Clorissa                                                                                         Boulder in the Woods
 This Boulder is the main attraction at Bishop Peak. Located in the large field, it is                                                  F R                                                                        F R
                         visible after emerging from the woods.                            1. Unnamed                                           V2                  8. Roof Problem                                       V2
  Note: this boulder lies on the old trail up to the top of bishop, you will pass a sign     Stay on the arete.                                                         SDS - Start under the roof. Get your hand in a thin jamb in the
                                                                                                                                                                        crack in the roof, Head up and over roof and holds to the top. First
 posted stating that you are entering a conservation area. Dont worry, your OK, just                                                    F R                             few moves are the crux.
          stay on the trail and try to take care to not cause any more erosion.            2. Unnamed                                           V3                                                                F R
                                                                                             Head up the outer corner.                                              9. Unnamed                                            V1
Mushy is the classic on this boulder and an area test piece. I have seen many people do                                                                                 Face problem. Ascend the tallest part of this section of the boulder.
                                                                                                                                        F R
                                   it a variety of ways.
                                                                                           3. Peanuts                                           V4
                                                                                                                                                                        Avoid larger hold as a variation.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  F R
                                                                                             The tallest vertical face on the boulder. Start on tiny crimps and     10. Mantle Problem                                    V0
                                                                                             smeary holds. Very thin.                                                   up and over...
                                                                                                                                         F R
                                           19                                              4. Unnamed                                           V0                                                                 F R
                                                                                             Start with back to the oak tree. Avoid the temptation to stem          11. Unnamed                                           V?
                                                18           17                              between the tree and the rock. Move up to a large flat bucket.             Literally...
                                                                                                                                        F R
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   F R
                                                                                           5. Unnamed                                           V3
                                                                                                                                                                    12. Arete 2                                           V1
                                                                                             Start with difficult undercling move on small holds. Avoid large
                                                                                                                                                                        Lie back sharp edge to rounded top.
                                                                  16                         ledges to the sides at the top.
                                                                                                                                       F R
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   F R
                                                                                           6. Unnamed                                           V0-
                                                                                                                                                                    13. Mercury                                           V9
                                                                                             Up the center of the main face using the crack and large holds.
                                                                        15                                                                                              Start on small side pull for left, and tiny crystal for right, arms
                                                                                                                                        F R                             almost fully outstretched, lunge for the V shaped pinch, then move
                                                                              14           7. Unnamed                                           V0                      into position for a left hand dyno for the top
         1                                                                                   Start just left of overhang. Go up obvious route using line of holds
                                                                                             and flake at top.
                                          Walk Off



                                  5                  7



                                                                                             The Boulder in the Woods, as seen from the trail as you approach it. In this photograph you
                                                                                            are looking at “Peanuts” (#3). The top of the edge is about 20’ off the deck. The landing isn't
                                                                                             perfect, so two pads are best and a spotter. Crawling out of the woods with a sprained ankle
                                                                                              wouldn’t be much fun, having a buddy to carry you out piggy-back style is much better...

                                           page 4                                                                                                          page 9
                                   Boulder in the Woods                                                                                                                Clorissa
  Located in the woods. Follow the main trail up to the water tank, at the base of the tank is a                                                                                                                             F R
                                                                                                                                                  F R
faint climber trail leading into the woods. Follow it for about 100 yards. You will be looking at   1. Unnamed                                             V4                  11. DownUnder                                         V2
                              “Peanuts” when you arrive at the boulder.                               SDS -Start hand in slot, right to sloper then up to mantle finish.         SDS - Start with hands in slot, sit up and traverse low and right, go
                                                                                                                                                                                 up and over bulge.
                                                                                                                                                  F R                                                                        F R
                                                                                                    2. Unnamed                                             V5                  12. The Bulge                                         V1
                                                                  Oak Tree
                                                                                                      SDS - Start at slot, traverse up and right, dyno for top jug, mantle       Straight over the bulge.
                                                                                                      finish.                                                                                                                F R
                                                                                                                                                  F R
                                                                                                    3. Mantle Problem                                      V1                  13. Unnamed                                           V1
                                                                                                      Start high, dynamic move for top, mantle finish...                         Start under the bulge, then avoid it by going right on small sidepull
                                                        5          4                                                                                                             and large pockets above.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             F R
                                                                                                                                                  F R
                                              6                                                                                                                                14. One Pocket                                        V3
                               7                                                                    4. Mushy                                               V4
                                                                                                      Classic problem on Clorissa, start at obvious rails, go straight up to     Go straight up between right facing side pull and small two finger
                    8                                                                                                                                                            pocket.
                                                                               3                      side pull flake and sloper near the top, throw for the top hold and                                                  F R
                                                                                                      finish. V5 if done with SDS start.
                                                                                                                                                   F R
                                                                                                                                                                               15. Two Pockets                                       V4
                                                                                                    5. Corner Route                                        V1                    Start at small seams and undercling, up to large pinch then to
           9                                                                                                                                                                     pockets, the upper right pocket is pretty good, the left one isn’t.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             F R
                                                                                                      Easy route up the corner, start with hands on large ledge, go either
                                                                                                      left, straight or right at top for a variety of finishes. Be sure to     16. Unnamed                                           V1
                                                                                         2            arrange your crash pad accordingly or suffer the consequences...           Obvious route up high section of boulder using small jugs and
                                                                                                      A bit harder from the SDS.                                                 ledges. Top out over bulge, or wimp out to the right on the large
                                                                                                                                                      F R
    10                             Walk-off                                                         6. Low Traverse Problem                                V8                                                             F R
                                                                                                      Start low at the corner, traverse back to Route 1, finish with mantle,   17. Revenge of the Bulge                              V2
                                                                                                      avoid using top holds prior to mantle move.                                Start on small undercling, and go up over the bulge using small
                                                                                                                                                  F R                            crimps on the bulge, mantle finish, avoid suing holds from
                                                                                                    7. Waterfall                                           V1                    problems on either side.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            F R
                                                                                                      Just to the right of Corner Route.
      11                                                                                                                                                                       18. Mantle                                            V0
                                                                                                                                                  F R
                                                                                        1                                                                                        Jump to a mantle on the large block, feel for two large jugs at the
                                                                                                    8. Waterfall 2                                         V3                    top to finish.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            F R
     12                                                                                               Start at undercling, use jagged pockets and slopers to top.
                                                                                                                                                                               19. Low Traverse                                      V7
                                                                                                                                                  F R
                                                                                                                                                                                 Start on large block, traverse entire boulder staying low, finish on
                                                                                                    9. Easy Street                                         V0                    Mushy if your not too pumped...
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             F R
                   13                                                                                 A good warm-up, as well as for running laps on. Add a sit start to
                                                                                                      make it a V0+. When this gets old, start eliminating hand and foot       20. High Traverse                                     V4
                                                                                                      holds for some fun variations. It is possible to do the route using        Start with hands on top, traverse entire boulder left to right, drop
                                                                                                      only three hand holds and smearing with feet... go play!                   down off top after reaching the corner but stay high. Helps if you
                                                                                                                                                                                 have someone to move a pad under you as you traverse...
                                                                                                                                                  F R
                                                                                                    10. Unnamed                                            V2
                                                                                                      A good warm-up, as well as for running laps on. Add a sit start to
                                                                                                      make it a V0+. When this gets old, start eliminating hand and foot
                                                                                                      holds for some fun variations. It is possible to do the route using
                                                                                                      only three hand holds and smearing with feet... go play!

                                              page 8                                                                                                                  page 5
                                                                         Pete                                                                                                                 Pete
                   Pete is located slightly downhill from Clorissa in a pit to the left of the trail if
                                                your looking uphill.
                   This boulder hosts fewer problems, but harder routes. Pete’s Problem is very
                    crimpy. The AM Traverse will leave you pumped, even if you don't finish.


                                                                         Easy Downclimb


                                                                                                                       6                             Looking at the overhanging side of Pete. The problem next to the bush is Pete’s Problem.


                                              F R                                                                          F R
1. Arm-Y                                              V2                   5. Credit Card                                        V
  Up the corner behind the bush. Climbable at one time, but the bush         Use the large vertical slot in the middle of the vertical face of the
  seems to have taken over...                                                boulder, then use thin edge to top, easy top out.
                                          F R
                                                                                                                         F R
2. Pete’s Problem                                     V6                   6. Laydown                                            V1
  The classic on this boulder. Start on your butt, grasping the lowest
                                                                             Use the large vertical slot in the middle of the vertical face of the
  crimpy rail. 4 rails to the top. Avoid other holds to the left and
                                                                             boulder, then use thin edge to top, easy top out.
  right. Good luck.
                                              F R
                                                                                                                           F R
3. Colin’s Problem                                    V4                   7. AM Traverse                                        V7
  Start under corner.- up to right crimp left to blob with thumb hole
                                                                             Start on down climb area. Work around corner, when you reach
  and up.
                                               F R                           large slot, drop down to the big rail, then traverse along bottom
4. Unknown                                            V5                     with crimps and rails using heels hooks and toes around to Pete’s
                                                                             Problem start, then up Pete’s Problem. V-5 if you don't make it up
  Up the tallest vertical face. Sit-down start on giant rail. Fun
  problem, careful not to barndoor on upper holds.

                                                                    page 6

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