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					Nails                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Spa

                                                                                                                        and invisible light. The visible blue glow       the UV gel. Without sufficient intensity,     cured dusts and inhibition layers are
                                                                                                                        doesn’t cure the UV gel, curing is done by       UV gels can’t properly cure. How the UV       more likely to cause skin allergy; as
                                                                                                                        invisible UVA light. A typical UVA bulb for      gel product is formulated will determine      always, direct skin contact with both
                                                                                                                        nail lamps has a lower UVA intensity than        the intensity of UVA light needed and         should be avoided. Other signs of
                                                                                                                        sunlight. Even so, these lamps are covered       the correct exposure time required for        under-curing are visible: small voids or
                                                                                                                        to protect your eyes. Your clients need not      proper curing. It is very important to        air pockets underneath the artificial
                                                                                                                        worry since their hands are only exposed         understand that UVA light intensity is        nail, loss of clarity or a cloudy nail, a
                                                                                                                        for short periods. UV nail lamps have a          completely different from “wattage.”          thicker than normal sticky surface
                                                                                                                        long history of safe use.                        Wattage measures how much electricity a       layer, or surfaces look dull or have spots
                                                                                                                                                                         bulb will use; higher watt bulbs use more     where the coating was too easily wiped
                                                                                                                                                                         electricity. Proper curing does not depend    or filed away.
                                                                                                                        “UV (ultraviolet) light                          on “wattage.” Don’t be fooled into judging
                                                                                                                        has been widely used                             a UV lamp by the wattage of the UV light
                                                                                                                                                                         bulbs. For example, some 27 watt UV           Secret 7
                                                                                                                        for curing artificial nail                       lamps have greater UVA intensity than         UV gels cAn be oVer-cUred
                                                                                                                        products over the past                           many 36 watt units.                           More isn’t always better! A higher
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       intensity UVA nail lamp can over-cure
                                                                                                                        25 years. UV nail lamps
                                                                                                                        should really be called                          Secret 5
                                                                                                                                                                         UV bUlbs mUst be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       UV gels designed for use with lower
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       intensity lamps. For example, with too
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       much UVA intensity, the UV gel may cure
                                                                                                                        UVA nail lamps, because                          chAnged regUlArly.
                                                                                                                                                                         Always remember: the wattage of a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       too rapidly and over heat and seriously
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       burn client’s nail beds. All UV gels harden
                                                                                                                        they are designed to                             bulb will remain the same, but UVA            and undergo the same “exothermic” or
                                                                                                                        produce UVA light...”                            light “intensity” slowly degrades every
                                                                                                                                                                         time a UVA bulb is turned on. After a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       “heat releasing” processes during cure,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       so this is true for all UV gels. It’s not
                                                                                                                                                                         few months of regular use, these bulbs        just a marketing gimmick; it’s based on

                                                                                                                        Secret 2
                                                                                                                        UVA light is strongly
                                                                                                                                                                         may no longer properly cure an artificial
                                                                                                                                                                         nail. How often should you replace
                                                                                                                                                                         them? Generally, after about two to four
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       scientific fact: always use the UVA nail
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       lamp that was designed for the UV gel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       product of your choice.
                                                                                                                        AttrActed to UV gels.                            months of regular use the entire set of
                                                                                                                        UVA light is strongly absorbed by UV gels,       bulbs should be changed. You should also
                                                                                                                        so much so that the top layers absorb            consider replacing them if clients’ nails       “Oxygen in the air
                                                                                                                        the majority of the UVA before it can
                                                                                                                        penetrate very deeply at all. The upper
                                                                                                                                                                         begin to show signs of unusual service
                                                                                                                                                                         break down or anything else that might
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       prevents the UV gel
                                                                                                                        layers act like an umbrella to shield the        suggest under-curing.                         molecules in the top
                                                                                                                        lower layers, making it more difficult to
                                                                                                                        properly cure thicker layers of UV gel.          here’s A working tip: Carefully               most layer from linking
                                                                                                                        This explains why UV gels cure more
                                                                                                                        thoroughly when applied in thinner layers
                                                                                                                                                                         clean nail dusts from the bulbs whenever
                                                                                                                                                                         needed, i.e. once per week. Dirty bulbs
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       together to create hard
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       polymers, so that part
      gel nAils                                                                                                         and with longer UVA exposure times. It
                                                                                                                        makes sense that highly colored UV gels
                                                                                                                        are even more difficult to properly cure.
                                                                                                                                                                         have a lower UV intensity, especially those
                                                                                                                                                                         coated with big gobs of hardened gel. Bulbs
                                                                                                                                                                         that are coated with cured nail product
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       remains sticky and
                                                                                                                                                                         can’t be saved, but they can be flipped       gooey... UVA light will
                         By Doug Schoon, chief Scientific ADviSor, creAtive nAil DeSign.                                Secret 3                                         over and the other side used until they
                                                                                                                                                                         must be replaced.                             cure the UV gel into
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       a durable artificial


T
                                                                                                                        UVA light cUring cAn’t
                                                “Just because they
              here is a big difference
              between “cure” and
                                             have hardened and look
                                                                          perform these types of services, however
                                                                          not all will be aware of the struggles that
                                                                                                                        compete with oxygen.
                                                                                                                        Oxygen in the air prevents the UV gel            Secret 6                                      nail, as long as it isn’t
              “properly cure” and often                                   UV light goes through to penetrate UV         molecules in the top most layer from             UV gels cAn be Under-cUred.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       applied too thickly.”
              it’s the difference between
              success and failure. Why?
                                             cured, it doesn’t mean       gels? Or how plain, everyday “oxygen” in
                                                                          the air can cause special problems for nail
                                                                                                                        linking together to create hard polymers,
                                                                                                                        so that part remains sticky and gooey.
                                                                                                                                                                         All UV gels solidify after they reach
                                                                                                                                                                         50-55 per cent cure. Just because they
              Under-curing, over-curing      they’re “properly cured”.    technicians using UV gels? In this article    Below this sticky “inhibition layer” where       have hardened and look cured, it doesn’t         Now you can appreciate the vast
and incorrect curing, each is possible
with UV gels. Each can lead to service
                                             Under-cured UV gel           I will explore the seven secrets to the
                                                                          perfect UV gel cure.
                                                                                                                        there is very little oxygen, UVA light will
                                                                                                                        cure the UV gel into a durable artificial
                                                                                                                                                                         mean they’re “properly cured”. Under-
                                                                                                                                                                         cured UV gel nails will be prone to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       difference between “cure” and “properly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       cure”. It’s far more important than many
break down and may even cause allergic       nails will be prone to                                                     nail, as long as it isn’t applied too thickly.   staining, discoloration, lifting, breakage    would imagine. If UV gel nails aren’t
reactions. UV (ultraviolet) light has
been widely used for curing artificial       staining, discoloration,     Secret 1                                      Secret 4
                                                                                                                                                                         and increased risk for clients to develop
                                                                                                                                                                         product-related allergies. For example,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       properly cured, the results could range
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       from lifting to cracking to air pockets to
nail products over the past 25 years. UV
nail lamps should really be called UVA
                                             lifting, breakage and        the light thAt cUres UV gels is
                                                                          inVisible to the hUmAn eye.                   don’t jUdge A UV bUlb by
                                                                                                                                                                         if a client complains of nail beds that
                                                                                                                                                                         feel “warm” hours after the service or
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       allergic reactions and more. Of course,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       your clients need not worry because
nail lamps, because they are designed        increased risk for clients   The UVA nail bulbs create light from a        its “wAttAge”.                                   underneath the nail plate feels “itchy”       you’ve read and reread the Seven
to produce UVA light, the safer form of
UV light. Most people reading this article
                                             to develop product-          part of the spectrum your eyes can’t see.
                                                                          Some birds and butterflies can see UVA,
                                                                                                                        UVA bulb “intensity” is very important to
                                                                                                                        proper curing. Intensity determines how
                                                                                                                                                                         or if the nail plate is partially separated
                                                                                                                                                                         from the nail bed, these are all possible
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Secrets. Use this knowledge wisely
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       and prosper.
will probably already know this if they      related allergies.”          but we can’t. UVA bulbs create both visible   much UVA light is available for curing           signs of a developing skin allergy. Under-    Contact: dschoon@cox.net

186   www.professionalbeauty.com.au                                                                                                                                                                                                         ProfessionalbeAUty 187

				
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posted:7/23/2011
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