Europe’s free magazine for independen
the packed guide to finding a job on your travels 16
tea in turkey
from Istanbul to the Mediterranean coast 28
famous sporting venues across Europe 21
Paris 24 Copenhagen 32
Dubrovnik 34 Tallinn 33
free travellers tips. adventures. parties & events.
discounts. accommodations. tours & experiences.
magazine for independent travellers. packedmagazine.com
Editor in Chief
Richard Nahem, Emily Senger,
Curtis Wong, Marie Glancy,
Colm Hanratty, Peter Hogan,
Dave Long, Rob Savage,
James Wright, ...
CC-PLANT / Cornelia Heine
in accordance with tourism
authorities of Austria, Belgium,
Croatia, Czech Republic,
Germany Tourism and affiliates,
Deutschland- Land der Ideen, In 2001, having finished uni-
Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, versity and with no real idea
Holland, Netherlands, Poland, what it was I wanted to do
Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland,
Munich Tourism, Innsbruck next, I started a trip around
Tourism, Interlaken Tourism, Europe for a few months. In
Nuremberg Tourism, Salzburg the back of my mind I perhaps 16 Work Europe
Tourism, Cesky Krumlov Tourism had the idea that it would be A packed magazine guide to finding
and advertisers. nice to live somewhere other work in Europe, with plenty of advice and
Printed by than England for a while, but I couldn’t have inspiration to get you started.
NP Druck, Gutenbergstr. 12, 3100
imagined that my first destination would become
Icons: Sporting Venues
Distribution my home for the next seven years. But a friendly 21 21
GLS Express Courier bunch of people at the Circus Hostel in Berlin From Wembley to the Camp Nou, we
invited me for their hostel opening party, and explore some of Europe’s iconic sporting
Gerald Reisecker when I returned to the city after three months of venues.
Sales wandering around the continent, they also offered
+61 403 859 985
me a job. 24 Paris: Magical Marais
firstname.lastname@example.org Local resident and tour guide
www.packedmagazine.com/ Working in the hostel café was a fascinating ex- Richard Nahem shows us around
perience, and it is not too dramatic to say that it his neighbourhood of Marais, a truly
changed my life. I made many friends in the city, 24 fascinating corner of Paris.
Summer issue (May/June 2008)
Circulation who are still my friends now long after I hung
up my apron and moved to the other side of the 28 On Tea in Turkey
Publication interval counter. I met the woman who would become 28 Emily Senger explores the delights of
bi-monthly my partner, and we now have a young daughter, Turkey, from tea in Istanbul to raki on the
and alongside gaining a family and new friends, Mediterranean coast.
living and working in Berlin has been a fascinat-
Owner and Publisher
packed magazine ing and rewarding time, offering the chance to 12 Real Travel Bug Tips
REISECKER KG, delve deeper into the culture of the country simply Travel tips from Real Travellers…the Travel
Am Schnurrnbach 5/2, 5321
Koppl (Salzburg), Austria. through the experience of everyday life. If you 12 Bugs of Bugbitten.com
have ever had the idea that it would be nice not
All material is strictly copyright to just travel through a place, but actually stick
and all rights are reserved. No
part of this publication may around for a while, then hopefully our Working destination spotlight
be reproduced in whole or Europe feature will give you some ideas, inspira-
part without the prior written tion and resources to help you on the way. 32 Copenhagen
permission of the copyright 32 Curtis Wong takes us around the Tivoli
holder. All data is correct at the
time of publication. Opinions Another expat, in Paris this time, is Richard Na- Gardens in the Danish capital.
expressed in packed magazine hem, who brings his knowledge of the city to
are not necessarily those of the
publisher - packed magazine these pages with an article on the neighbourhood
REISECKER KG, and packed of Marais, an area of the city chock full of culture, Marie Glancy wanders around the
magazine REISECKER KG does nightlife, and the thing the French do best of all, wonderful Old Town of Dubrovnik.
not accept responsibility for
food and drink. Elsewhere, Emily Senger explores
advertising content. Any pictures
or transparencies supplied are the delights of Turkey, whilst our spotlights take us 33 Tallinn
at the owners risk. Any mention to three wonderful cities in different corners of the Brianna Summers explores the historical
of packed magazine or use of
the packed magazine logo by continent – Copenhagen, Tallinn and Dubrovnik. hybrid that is Tallinn.
Added to all this, we have our usual collection of
any advertiser in this publication
does not imply endorsement of travel tips, events, and our regular columnists to
that company, or its products or
36 events & tips
services by packed magazine provide ideas for your travels, as well as an inter- 33
REISECKER KG. view with the guys behind Trabant Trek, an inspir-
The best things to see and do across
ing journey across two continents in old East Ger-
(c) packed magazine REISECKER Europe in spring.
KG man cars to raise money for NGOs working with
March 2008 children in Cambodia. As always we hope you en- 11 news & deals WIN WIN WIN!
joy this edition of packed, Europe’s free magazine 05 Colm Hanratty column
for independent travellers, and if you have any 05 iGrumble column
suggestions, requests or indeed criticisms, please 06 Savage Trips column
drop me a note at email@example.com 15 Trabant Trek interview
Happy travels! 37 packed mates
– PAUL SCRATON. 12
Check out Hos
Bu ns tio
in over 2,000 destina
No Booking Fees
ravel & Even
Worldwide News, T
channel to mainland Europe -
iGrumble The Empire has shrunk somewhat
now America rules the world)
you’ll be looking for “travail au
iGrumble reveals the ins and noir” in France, “zwartwerk” in
outs of making a quick buck Belgium, “schwarzarbeit” in Ger-
on your travels many, “lavoro nero” in Italy, “tra-
bajar en negro” in Spain, “praca
na czarno” in Russia, "munca la
negru" in Romania, "pune ne te
You may well have got the im- zeze" in Albania, and “svartar-
pression iGrumble spends all bete” in Sweden.
day sniggering at you unwashed
band of dishevelled backpackers, The price of a beer in Finland
unemployeds and general idlers means moonlighting is obviously
from the magnificent splendour of close to Finnish hearts, and they
‘iGrumble Towers’, but no really, certainly lead the world in ways
I’m here to help. Working (illegally) to describe it. “Laiton tyonteko”
Colm does Florence. in Europe. Been there, made the means illegal working but could
Hostelworld.coM editor COLM HANRATTy reports fortune, got away with it.* There also could mean illegal im-
bAck to pAcked in eAcH edition froM A different city are many ways of migrants, handily
in europe. tHis tiMe Around, He HeAds for tHe making some cash “A viable giving you tax sav-
deliGHts of tHe RENAISSANCE CITy OF FLORENCE. on your travels, all alternative is ings and racialism
Now that I have reached my 30th desire to stay in the great outdoors
with differing risk-
to-profit ratios. A
working in the in one go. “Harmaa
talous” refers to the
birthday, I sometimes look back as much as possible. Thankfully, rubber jonny full of
pub, which grey economy, and
over the last number of years and Florence is home to some of Italy’s Bolivian marching combines free the adorable “kuu-
think ‘how have I changed over most vibrant squares and each powder up your drinks when tamokeikkailu” is
the last decade?’ It turns out I’ve one is a real feast for the senses. bum and a mega- the manager good old fashioned
changed quite a bit. These days I
generously throw peppers (or cap-
Piazza della Signoria, perpendicular
to the entrance to the Uffizi, is one
tinental flight is the
isn’t looking, moonlighting. I’d
forgive you for think-
sicums as Antipodeans like to call of the main arteries of the city and most obvious, but
and unlimited ing kuutamokeik-
them) into everything I create in the it’s hard to think of a better place to also runs the huge sex." kailu (I swear I’m not
kitchen. Also, today I am happily people watch. risk of decades making this up) is
content when sipping on a glass rotting in a rat infested prison impossible to pronounce after a
of red wine, when before I was a Also, as a result of over 20,000 hell or a machine gun execution, few pints. In truth, I would strongly
staunch supporter of white. Finally, American students descending or maybe even doing the pogo- advise getting thoroughly rinsed
over the last twelve months I do my upon the city annually, Florence is elbow dance through customs before you even attempt to say
utmost to attend my ever-busy gym an extremely lively city once the sun should jonny-go-pop during a this, and forget about texting it to
more regularly than my equally-busy settles behind the rolling Tuscany bumpy landing. your mates as apparently the first
McDonalds. But one other aspect hills, and most bars can be found in predictive text option is ‘doctorI’v
of my life that has changed as I get the Sante Croce district. Actually, a rubber jonny full of egotarubberjonnyfullofdrugsstuck-
older is that I now have a greater drugs up your bum isn’t all that upmebum’.
appreciation for art more than ever. Florence is a classic Italian city. stressful. Stressful is being one
That is why I looked forward to my With some of the country’s best of the three Kings at the school * technically speaking I didn’t
trip to Florence so much. art galleries, it is a culture vulture’s nativity play knowing you’ve exactly get away with it, but hey,
dream come true. But it is tailor- scoffed all the (chocolate) gold if Imelda Marcos can put up with
According to UNESCO, approxi- made for those wishing to engage coins backstage and have noth- house arrest so can I!
mately 60% of the world’s most im- in outdoor activities as there is so ing in your pockets to present to
portant pieces of art can be found much to do under the blue, Flo- Baby Jesus except two melted Next month: Shop-til-you-drop.
in Italy. Somewhere in the region rentine skies. Most importantly (to together chewy sweets, a leaking iGrumble hits Harrods, if you buy
of half of these are in Florence. some), there is a wealth of choice in ink cartridge, Lego spaceman’s cheap you buy twice!
It was, after all, birthplace of the terms of after dark venues for those legs, Sopranos lighter, four cans
Renaissance. Due to that, Florence intent on dancing most of their way of Guinness, and fluff of an un- - JIMMY.
(or Firenze as the Italians call it) is through their stay. So, as you can identifiable origin.
home to Italy’s most important art see, Florence has something for ev-
collection. eryone. Miss it at your peril. A more viable alternative, and the
best for a laugh, is working in the
It’s not all about art though – due - COLM pub, which combines free drinks
to its Mediterranean climate, this is when the manager isn’t looking
a city where you will need to feed a and unlimited sex from drunk
divorcees, and a brown envelope
full of tenners at the end of the
shift from the boss who is happy
packedspecial to avoid paying for your student-
fever jabs and health insurance.
no booking fee with hostelworld
get your FREE Hostelworld.com Gold Card and pay no booking fee for
6 months. Choose from over 6,000 hostels throughout Europe and save What you’re after is a spot of
yourself some extra bucks for a beer or two. ‘moonlighting’ as we call it in the
www.hostelworld.com/packed Empire, but should you travel fur-
ther afield (i.e. 12 miles across the
Savage trips. Camden.
in tHe fourtH of His speciAl coluMns,
ROB SAVAGE froM st. cHristopHer’s
tAkes us on A sAvAGe trip closer to
HoMe, As He eXplores THE WONDERS
OF CAMDEN TOWN...
Hunter S. Thompson is a hero of mine. He inaugurated the age
of Gonzo journalism, mixed fact with brutal cynicism, blended
sarcasm with Rock and Roll and took on any authority figure
who dared to question his spin on things. In honour of Mr
Thompson here is my fear and loathing of traveller hot spots in led to his early release. Unfortunately for them George was later
Camden. returned to his abode with barred windows after the Bank of Cy-
prus brought him to justice for a separate robbery.
Just over 24-years-ago the Guardian newspaper reviewed a
performance at the Camden Palace by: “the most important Further into Chalk Farm territory I came across the Round
new figure in the American dance scene.” I've never really House. The one educational benefit of exposure to the afore-
thought of Madonna as a dance artist, but the chance to see her mentioned culture fascists was the fascinating story behind this
point of entry on the UK music map was too good to pass up. venue. As it turns out the perfect acoustics inside the rotund
building were treated to the very first UK performance of Jimi
The venue - like her career is very much Hendrix. Since his debut the venue has also
alive and somewhat altered. It now goes hosted The Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Led Zep-
by the name of Ko Ko and the bands that
“...his musical, mod- pelin, The Foo Fighters and many more big
play here are cool to the point where if ern day contempo- brand acts. A short jaunt down the road from
you've heard of them – they're already here takes you to the Barfly. This compara-
old news. I spent several hours trying rary, Amy Winehouse tively small stage earned its reputation by
to imagine how Hunter would describe can be located on holding intimate evenings with the likes of
the skinny jean wearing, wannabe-cool Oasis and The Plain White T's.
scensters who somehow knew the in- most nights at the
timate history of every emerging artist
before they even emerged. I decided
watering holes within One musical skin full later, I decided it was
time to break some New Year gastronomic
pretentious, egocentric, fastidious, cul- crawling distance.” and economic resolutions with a little walk
ture fascists was an appropriate title. through The Stables. This cobbled enclosure
was the home of London's yesteryear horses,
In dire need of an experience that wasn't described as wack, but today it's the base of innumerable clothes stalls, nick nack
funky or out there, I tracked down the North London home of vendors, furniture traffickers and food repositories. Never one
didactic, literary legend Charles Dickens. This is just around the to back down from a challenge - I attempted to run the gauntlet
corner from St Christopher's - on Bayham Street and better yet, of food pushers without buying anything. I subsequently discov-
his musical, modern day contemporary, Amy Winehouse can ered that all these salesmen need is one second of naïve eye
be located on most nights at the watering holes within crawling contact to draw you in and fill you to the brim with over-priced,
distance. MSG saturated goodness. Getting out without indigestion is
tougher than your Grandmother's bunions.
Like many members of my jaded persuasion, I can only stand
crowds and street collectors for so long before I start reaching This wouldn't be a Gonzo tribute without a narcotics reference
for sharp objects. Luckily enough the eponymous bench from so on a final note, be sure to prepare yourself for the legions of
Notes on a Scandal is only five minutes north of Camden High drug pushers who like London buses, all show up at once. On
Street on Primrose Hill. This sanctuary is a great point of orien- these streets it's a different kind of crack to what's on offer in
tation, if like me you have a genetic predisposition towards mis- Amsterdam's red light alleyways, but this stuff is as readily avail-
interpreting maps. The climb may well weed out the asthmatic able and fetches a similar price. Good times.
smokers in the crowd but the view for those with the right lung
capacity is figuratively breath-taking. This is also one of the rare
vantage points in London where you can get a clear snap shot - ROB SAVAGE.
of the city skyline, from London Bridge in the West to Big Ben in
During a concurrent wander towards Chalk Farm I found another
photo worthy sight. In close proximity to the canal there is a wall
decorated by international, graffiti artist extraordinaire – Banksy.
His prefabricated, spray-on stencils are no longer exclusive to
London, but it's in this city where he's the most notorious and
prolific. The alleged inspiration for his work was a 1970s graf-
fiti campaign that freed George Davis from jail. Campaigners
were convinced George never stole the payroll of the London
Electricity Board and their devotion to defacing public property
6 packed magazine
Paris is Open!
The brand new St Christopher’s
Hostel is up and running!
- Less than ten minutes on the metro from
the Eurostar at Gare du Nord.
- Free Wiﬁ, an internet café and no curfew.
- Sauna, nightclub and canal side terrace.
- Free Walking Tours.
- The backdrop from Amélie.
- Introductory rates and deals.
- Group Offers.
This has never been seen before in Paris! St Christopher’s have brought quality budget
accommodation to the French capital and there’s nothing else like it.
There’s nowhere in the world like the City of Lights when it comes to culture, creativity and couture. Unfortunately there aren’t
too many places that allow you to explore the French capital for a fair price and that’s where St Christopher’s steps up to the
challenge. We are situated in the most modern, vibrant and rejuvenated neighbourhood in Paris – the 19th District, and we offer
great value accommodation.
This former industrial area is a hotspot for superb nights out and romance along the scenic canals - featured in Amélie. You can
reach us without breaking a sweat and when you’re settled into one of our brand spanking new rooms, it’s just as easy to head
out again and see all the top attractions. We guarantee there are no other Hostels in Paris like this. Live it!
is M Crimée Top Notch River Cruises
de These are pretty inexpensive in Paris and you can usually
Jo get a multi-lingual ride for between €6 and €9. Just
L’ stroll along the Seine near the Eiffel Tower and compare
Ru contemporaneous prices.
e ua ar
Du Q M
ve la le
ier id The Eiffel Tower
a h ion
Qu eT It’s a cool icon and if you have to tick it off your to do list
Ru then go right ahead. However if you want to save a buck
Rue Riquet and snap some photos which include the tower, then head
uad for the Tour Montparnasse skyscraper.
Ro Se E ire Leo
ue a ET Lo e
d el VI
LL la Ru
Public Transport in Paris
ai LA i de
Qu DE a The underground rail network is safe, cheap and it covers the
I N Qu
SS entire city. It’s about €1.60 for a single journey to anywhere
a nd and you save more when you buy a book of tickets.
M Stalingrad Ru
For something a little different take a trip to this celebrity
cemetery. It’s the ﬁnal resting place of Mr Oscar Wilde,
Jim Morrison, Delacroix and a stunning mix of historically
This old train station now houses an eye opening collection of
Impressionist masterpieces. Degas is a favourite front runner
here, along with Monet, Manet and Toulouse Lautrec.
Montmarte (to north)
A 15-minute Metro ride takes you to the world’s most visited L’Arc De Triomphe
historical repository. Mona Lisa and Delacroix fans will love Cha
Place de la
Concorde RIGHT BANK
Segway Tours Trocadero Tuileries
These emission-less transporters are popular among tourists LEFT BANK
in Paris and you can sort out a tour from reception. They Eiffel Tower D’Orsay
start at rue Edgar Faure and bike tours are on offer too! Invalides Marais
Champ de Mars
Saint-Germain Notre Dame
Cram all the sights into a couple of hours by attaching Latin Quarter
eight wheels to your feet. These pro and beginner Jardin du Luxemberg
sessions are free every Friday and Sunday! Montparnasse
St Christopher’s Inns provide safe, clean and cheap BRUGES
accommodation across Europe. We take great pride in our
reputation and believe like many of our customers, that we Nowhere does Flemish ﬂavour and hospitality like St
provide and maintain the highest standards in the budget Christopher’s at The Bauhaus. We give you the great Bruges
accommodation sector. Card which means fantastic discounts at all top tourist sites!
You also get 50 ﬂavours of beer at the bar, a cyber-cafe and
Every hostel has a bar attached to it, whether that’s a bike rental - so you can do as the locals do.
Belushi’s Bar or a St Christopher’s Inn. If you like traditional
English pubs then the Inns are for you, but if you want some BERLIN
late night contemporary culture then kick back at Belushi’s.
You can party all night long and still have money left over for This is modern, metal, neon (in a good way) and rammed
a nice, greasy fry up. with shiny happy people. There’s easy access to the U-
Bahn - which means Potsdamer Platz, Kreuzberg, the
LONDON Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag and free walking tours
are all easy options.
You have seven hostels in the British capital. Shepherd’s
Bush is near the gigs at the Empire, Hammersmith is new BOOK YOUR BED ONLINE NOW
and connected to Heathrow, Camden takes you to the
musical bohemia of North London and Greenwich sets the To book a bed in any of the St Christopher’s Inns across
time on the Meridian Line in the east. Near London Bridge Europe just visit http://www.st-christophers.co.uk.
we have three great bases. The Village is the ﬂagship hostel
with a nightclub and rooftop hot tub, the Orient Espresso
- a café with a female only ﬂoor and The Inn with its vintage
16th century vibe.
The rooms are bright, the chill out room is chilled, there are
two bars and a restaurant downstairs and even the most
hung over travellers will have no trouble getting here. It’s a
two minute trek from the train station and is the best base
for exploring the nearby Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle and
Bath is a combination of old school Georgian class and
new age St Christopher’s fun. Dip your toe in the only hot
spring spa in the UK, take the Bill Bryson tour of the Roman
Baths, check out the Jane Austen centre, munch on a Sally
Lunn Bun, see a show at the Theatre Royal and make an
expedition to Stonehenge.
If you want to be beside the seaside and fancy a bit of sun,
sea, sand and Sambuca then we can help. Our abode is
perched on top of a cliff, over looking Towan Beach. We
also hook you guys up with discounts at the Escape Surf
Everyone in this seaside city is genuinely happy without
Prozac and the best of the bunch reside at St Christopher’s. LONDON
We’re in a great sea side location with easy access to the Newquay
pier attractions and all the funky retro stores. Brighton
Where else can you ﬁnd guided tours of a red light district,
Rembrandt’s house, the Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank’s
house, Tulips, “coffee shops” and cheap beer? In Amsterdam
- where you also ﬁnd our budget art hostel and hotel.
More for less with St Christopher’s Inns
OUR Friends FREE StuFf
We have fun friends all over the place to make sure that you Free Monthly Travel E-zine:
guys have a well rounded and fully entertaining experience. The best event guides, tips from an international writing
We take care of the beds and bars, and then our buddies team, advice for female travellers, musical beats, reads on
work out your muscles and synapses! The Winston Nightclub the road, great give-aways and celebrity interviews!
blasts out fresh music every night, the Escape Surf School » www.st-christophers.co.uk/newsletters/join
dunks you in the English Channel and our afﬁliate hostels
take you to the cities that we haven’t got to yet!
Keep up to date with the latest travel news by reading our
daily Blogs at www.st-christophers.co.uk We seek out the
best parties and the most affordable beds, blend them
together and give you inspirational options!
With You As You Go:
Free Podcasts from St Christopher’s. We take the best
from the E-zine, the Blogs and the free walking tours at our
hostels, and put it on your pod!
St Christophers Store:
Remember us forever with mementos from the St
Christopher’s Online Store.
St Christopher’s Inns and Belushi’s - Paris
159, rue de Crimée (next to the canal bridge),
Crimée, Line 7 (nearest metro)
Tel: 00 33 1 40 34 34 40
Tell us about yourself and explore Europe!
Just log on to www.packedmagazine.com
follow the link to our reader survey and answer a
few quick questions about yourself and what you
think about packed magazine.
Once you've zapped through the questions, give us your
contact details and we'll enter you into the draw for an
InterRail Global Pass that gives you 5 days of 2nd class
travel over a 10 day period.
The InterRail Global Pass is valid for travel in Austria, Bel-
gium, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Re-
public, Denmark, Finland, France, FYR Macedonia, Ger-
many, Great Britain, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Luxembourg,
Montenegro, The Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,
Republic of Ireland, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia,
Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and Turkey. the packed
guide to ﬁn
ding a job on yo
ur travels 16
The biggest problem is working out where you’ll go!! Big the Mediterra
thanks to InterRail for donating such an awesome prize. famous spor
Paris 24 Cop
So... flip through the March issue, and then Dubrovnik 34enhagen 32
tell us what you think!
special promotion sponsored by
We have teamed up with the many
good folks on bugbitten.com to bring
you the best of their travel tips from
their journeys around Europe. They
were selected from the best of the
“Recommendations” that can be
found on bugbitten.com, so if you are
looking for more travel inspiration,
check it out…
Oslo is generally an expensive place to lights tours, just drive your rental down to out jumping off the 18m cliff into the sea in
visit. A good, cheap way of seeing the city the bus station at the time the tours are Budva! Easy-peasy once you've braved the
is by registering for the free bike scheme leaving and follow them to the hot spots to local mountain roads. Enjoy!
at the tourist office. Once you have an see them. It is heaps cheaper and you can
electronic card (cost about 70 kroner) you stay out a bit longer to view them. Travel Bug: gonebatchabout
can take a bike for free from any of the bike www.bugbitten.com/gonebatchabout
stations around the city. Average price of Another Tip: When you go to the Blue La-
a meal and a beer is about 150 kroner or goon take heaps of conditioner for after.
14-15 GPB. Oh, and it smells a bit like rotten eggs but Toledo, Spain
you get used to it! This is a tip if you are in Madrid and want
Travel Bug: leivem to see the best of Spain cheaply. Go to
www.bugbitten.com/leivem Travel Bug: bagzandpolly the tourist office in Plaza Mayor and get a
www.bugbitten.com/bagzandpolly tourist travel pass. You can use the metro
and buses as much as you want but more
Zurich, Switzerland importantly you can go on a day trip to To-
Spent 2 days in summer in Switzerlands Budva, Montenegro ledo. And Toledo is wonderful. We got the
largest city - Zurich. It is a lively city with Budva is a great base for exploring the bus there for a day and didn't even visit an
great shopping all along Bahnhofstrasse coastal area of Montenegro. It is a resort exhibition or Goya's house, just wandered
and Niederdorf. There are loads of bars town, but I stayed at the Hippo Hostel, the streets and went down to the river.
and resuraunts for wining and dining. The which is a great place to crash with nice Bring your own food for a picnic!
city is built around a lake which is surrond- and helpful hosts and a 24hr convenience
ed by parks and seats so you can enjoy store (aka "the bar") literally 10m across Travel Bug: domandjess
the view. In the distance you can see the the road with unlimited, cold, 45 euro cent, www.bugbitten.com/domandjess
mountains so it is a very pretty city. 500ml beer...now that's very convenient
The best thing about Zurich is you can hire Lake Bled, Slovenia
bikes for free to cruise around the city. Way The old town is worth a quick look but The best place to eat is the Restaurant
more fun than beating the feet. All you take a short bus ride to Sveti Stefan and Rikli which has provided me with the best
need to do is have your passport on you laze on the beach or in the other direction service and quality of food for the past 5
and leave 20francs as a deposit and off you to visit Kotor. I highly recommend hiring a years. The menu is varied and the food
go. We cycled up both sides of the lake and car and spending a day driving around the second to none.
then stoked up on laods of food for a pic- death defying winding mountain roads.
nic. There are loads of spots to stop along I say death defying because locals tend Another cool things to do in Bled include
the lake to eat. to speed around blind corners and push white water rafting, quad biking, paraglid-
you right over to the edge of the sheer cliff ing and horse riding
Travel Bug: lisaknowler off the side of the road...not for the faint
www.bugbitten.com/lisaknowler hearted. Travel Bug: jhawes
In the morning, drive to Centinje monas-
Reykjavik tery, the summit of Mt Lovcen, the village of
I would recommend the Golden Circle Tour Rijeka Crnojevica, Pavlova Strana and fin-
for your first day and then hire a car as it is ish with dinner as the sun sets over a town
better value for money. For the Northern on Lake Skadar. No visit is complete with
12 packed magazine
the online adventure travel guide
IS OUR JOB.
2x IN VIENNA
I LOVE VIENNA. hostel.at
packed magazine 13
HAve you ever wondered wHAt it would like to trAvel FROM EuROPE TO CAMBODIA IN A SOVIET-ERA CAR,
All in Aid of A Good cAuse? we Met Good fellows DAN AND CARLOS froM trAbAnt trek to find out…
Can you tell us something about the pitching a tent in the middle of the Gobi What inspires you to travel?
Trabant Trek project? What gave you the desert is not a good idea. None of us were Dan: A hideous fear of the mundanity and
idea? able to any sleep with numb toes and ears. futility of modern urban existence.
The project started when John Lovejoy Carlos: The idea of getting a stupid job
and John Drury bought a Trabant in What was the favourite place that you and a mortgage and not being able to travel
Hungary and drove it to Paris, in the visited…and is there anywhere you anymore.
summer of 2006. John L. had been also would love to visit again?
working for the NGO Mith Samlanh in Dan: I'd like to go back to Istanbul. We And what’s the first thing you do when
Cambodia and knew some people there. were only there for a few days, but it blew you get home?
The whole group has been to Cambodia me away. It must be the most cosmopolitan Dan: Have a decent glass of red wine and
at some point in time so we all know city in the world, and it is dripping with a roast dinner. Then out to celebrate and
about the street children situation. John history. I definitely want to go back. remind myself why I was so desperate to
L. decided to get together some friends Carlos: Novosibirsk, Siberia. Not only the get away.
and start a trip from Zwickau (Germany) to women are amazingly hot but also the Carlos: Get a feast at my grandmas with
Sihanoukville (Cambodia) in order to raise people are the most hospitable among all all the family together. Then go out with
money and awareness to the problem of the countries I have been to. my friends and start missing the countries
street children, not only in Cambodia but and the life I have been living for the last 6
also around the world, especially in all the How did you guys get on together when months.
countries we were going to drive through. you were travelling?
Dan: We all hate each other. No really, we What’s next for the Trabant Trek team?
Can you tell us why you decided to do do hate each other. In that sort of situation Dan: hopefully an official pardon from the
this with a Trabant? you have no choice but to get on - you government of Turkmenistan, but more
When the Johns drove a Trabant through know you've got to spend a lot of time likely a year of depression slaving over a
half of Europe they attracted a lot of together so you need to get on with it. No nine to five to raise the cash to get away
attention from all sorts of people that were disagreements ever got out of hand, and from it all again.
wandering what the hell were two Yanks the big decisions were made very civilly. Carlos: We parted separated ways with
doing with a Trabant in those countries. But there was tension at times. the hope to see each other again in the
That sparked the idea of using the Trabant Carlos: The relationships were cool near future. Each has its own plans so it is
as a means to raise more interest. at the beginning but when different difficult to say what is going to be. The 3
personalities get together for a long period yanks have been talking about shipping the
What were your most memorable of time, is expected to arise some sort of 2 Trabants left to the United States.
moments along the way? disagreements. You do feel more attached
Dan: Driving into Laos, the road through and comfortable with some people than And finally, where can we get more
the mountains in the north from China. The with others, that’s travelling. information and support your project?
scenery was just stunning and so lush and Check out our website at www.
green after all the bleak steppe of northern OK, some general travel questions. If trabanttrek.org. We also have videos on
Eurasia. It also felt like we were nearly you could be anywhere in the world right youtube, and a blog at blogspot…oh, and
there, the home stretch, which was great. now, where would you be? please check the donation page in our
Carlos: Leaving Turkmenistan, after all the Dan: I'm all travelled out. I'm looking website and support the
problems and delays we had, after dealing forward to getting home and having a pint kids in Cambodia with
with police and KGB, it felt like crossing with my mates down the pub. But if I had to anything you can. Every
the doors into paradise, which would be I'd probably head down to Sihanoukville in Euro, dollar, pound,
Uzbekistan… not much of a paradise Cambodia...no wait, I am already here... etc… counts.
anymore. Carlos: Definitely back home getting my
old friends together at the bar we always
And the worst times? go, drinking “kalimotxo” and talking to
Dan: Siberia was pretty cold. It was good them about the trek. Witnessing their
to drive through it, but I wouldn’t do it mouths wide open while I explain the
again. wonders and the adventures we have
Carlos: The coldest night in my life, been through.
tHe pAcked MAGAzine Guide to THE BEST CLASSES AND COuRSES to tAke on your trAvels
Living and working in a country is one of the best ways to discover the
different sides to a place that the traveller passing through may never
see. There are many different working opportunities open to travellers
in Europe, from picking grapes to windsurf instruction, so read on and
see how you can turn your journey across Europe into a career move.
16 packed magazine
photos: “Work your way across Europe: From bartending in the big city, to fruit picking in the countryside.”
On the Farm:
Beer and Beds:
If you want to experience Europe beyond More Information: Tourism
the big cities, then seasonal farm work
might be a good option. The most popu- Grape Picking in France: The possibilities for work in the hospitality
lar seasonal work for travellers is grape > www.pickingjobs.com and tourism sector are almost endless.
picking in France and in certain parts of You could score a job as chalet staff in
Germany, which takes place during the Seasonal Work in Denmark: an Alpine ski resort, work at a beach bar
harvest season of August to October. > www.seasonalwork.dk or nightclub in Ibiza, or find yourself wel-
In June and July the place to head for coming fellow travellers at hostel recep-
is Denmark, where many farms take on World Wide Opportunities on tion desks in one of Europe’s great cities.
jordbaerplukkers (Strawberry pickers), or Organic Farms: > www.wwoof.org Another option are the package compa-
else you could check out the extensive nies that sell the sun and sand holidays
WWOOFING network. This is not a job to the Costa del Sol, the Balearics or the
exactly, rather the chance to volunteer Greek Islands. They are often on the look
to work on organic farms or other con- out for people to work a variety of posi-
servation projects in exchange for room tions, such as reps, entertainers, babysit-
and board. The WWOOFING network is ters and sports instructors. Be aware that
global, with options in Europe including for certain jobs within the hospitality sec-
Austria, Czech Republic, Estonia, Italy, tor a certain level of language ability may
Slovenia and Switzerland amongst many be required.
packed magazine 17
learn the lingo
For some jobs in Europe you may be able
to get by in English with a smattering of
local phrases, but employment opportuni-
ties, and the experience itself, will be all
the more richer if you bring some linguistic
skills to the table. Why not begin your trip
with a language course, which will not only
give you more chance of eventually finding
a job, but will also give you the opportunity
to explore the city and country in which you
want to live and work, before you commit to
There are literally thousands of options
when it comes to learning languages in
Europe, from weekend introductions to
yearlong immersion programmes. What you
choose will depend on what you want to
get out of it, and how far your budget can
More Information: Think of the
STA Travel > www.statravel.co.uk have
courses in 11 languages in 30 different Ski Resort Jobs: Children:
countries, including Spanish, French, Por- > www.seasonalworkers.com/skijobs
tuguese, Russian and German. Prices start Summer Camps
from around €100 per week. Summer Resort Jobs:
> www.resortjobs.co.uk and Au Pair Work
Another useful resources is Languages
Abroad > www.languagesabroad.com For hostel jobs and other employment If you like children, then work on a sum-
which offers courses in 22 European coun- opportunities, check out some of the mer camp or as an Au Pair can be one of
tries, including an immersion programme travellers forums, such as bootsnall.com, the most rewarding things you could do
where you live and learn with your teacher. or the gumtree.com and craigslist.org as part of an overseas working experi-
message boards. ence. Both summer camp and Au Pair
work will usually include accommoda-
tion and meals as part of the package,
as well as a certain amount of spending
money. Summer Camps can be great, as
In the Classroom: not only will you have interaction with the
kids, but also your fellow camp counsel-
Teaching English lors, whilst working as an Au Pair can
give you a unique insight into family life
The popularity of English as a second of the country in which you are living.
language all over the world not only Make sure that you carefully explore all
makes it easy for native speakers to trav- the conditions and requirements involved
el, but also provides working opportuni- before taking any position…you might be
ties for those who can help others learn hired to look after the children, but you
the lingo. Teaching English as a Foreign don’t want to end up cleaning up after
Language (TEFL) is a big business, and mum and dad as well!
most European cities have a number of
language schools that are always on the Summer Camps:
lookout for new teachers. Be aware that Some companies that run summer
many will not employ you without some camps around Europe and are often
form of TEFL qualification, which you looking for employees include
can either do at home, or in programmes > www.pgl.co.uk and
around the world. Do some research into > www.supercamps.co.uk
the different qualifications on offer, and
make sure that any course you take has a Au Pair Work:
good reputation, and will be recognised The > www.transitionsabroad.com
by potential employers. website has an extensive guide to dif-
ferent opportunities, including organisa-
More Information: tions in many different countries that can
help you find a placement.
TEFL jobs and other information:
18 packed magazine
Other Options and
More Information A word of Advice –
If none of the above appeals to you, how For information on sailing jobs and other
about exploring some of the other options: jobs in the travel sector, as well as an
Experienced sailors might look for work excellent overview of the whole working IMPORTANT: Please bear in mind that all the
on yachts sailing from Spain, Croatia or abroad situation, check out > www.tran- information contained in this article is for ad-
the Greek Islands. Writers and Photogra- sitionsabroad.com, which has loads of vice only, and any visa or legal requirements
phers could attempt to turn their travels interesting and useful information. The you may need to meet should be checked
into money by selling their work to maga- blog at www.writtenroad.com has ex- carefully, likewise all websites listed and
zines and websites (although be warned, cellent tips as well as job leads for aspir- jobs offered. The article is supposed to
this is a very competitive market). Or you ing travel writers, whilst for an interesting inspire and provide a starting point for work-
could look for work with one of the many country-by-country guide to working in ing in Europe, and it is vitally important that
tourism related businesses out there, as Europe, check out the downloadable pdf you do your own research before commit-
walking tour guides, cruise ship entertain- “Travel Work Europe” by Hostelworld.com ting to anything.
ers, or sports instructors. at > www.hostelworld.com/jobs
Visas and Red Tape
If you are a European Union citizen, and
want to work in another EU country, then
the good news is that you can legally work
across the Union with the same rights (and
responsibilities) as the citizens of those
For non-EU citizens the situation is more
difficult, although depending on where you
come from, and where you want to go, there
are options available to you. Some countries,
such as Ireland, the United Kingdom, Ger-
many, the Netherlands, Denmark, Finland,
Sweden, Norway amongst others, have
reciprocal working holiday visa arrange-
ments with other countries, most commonly
Australia, New Zealand and Canada. Check
with the embassy in your own country to see
if this option is open to you.
The website Travoholic.com has a useful
guide to working holiday visas and other
requirements in different European countries
for Americans, Canadians, Australians, New
Zealanders and South Africans, which you
can find at > www.travoholic.com/euro/
packed magazine 19
no booking fee online!
oPe are Part of:
5 YeaRS oPeN BRaND MoRe THaN a HoSTeL BRaND oo
iN THe CiTy CeNTeR NeW HosTeL iN THe CiTy CeNTeR NeW HosTeL
Carrer Sant Pau 80 Ave. Alfonso XIII - 28 B Carrer Nou de La Rambla 50 Carrer Nou de La Rambla 91
08001 Barcelona 08912 Badalona 08001 Barcelona 08001 Barcelona .com
Tel: (+34) 93 324 85 30 Barcelona Tel: (+34) 934 42 36 69 Tel: (+34) 93 324 85 30
visit: barcelonamar.com Tel: (+34) 93 399 14 20 visit: barcelonaramblas.com barcelonasoundhostel.com
visit: barcelonadream.net We always have
a bed for you!
BaRCeLoNa iS a NeVeR eNDiNG DReaM ...!
Ceci n'est pas une coffeeshop.
munich for backpackers
youth hostel & guesthouse 4you
4 you in munich at the central station here we are
youth hostel and guesthouse 150m from the railway stati-
in the middle of munich. on and on the bright side of
24 hours open, free luggage
room, free individual lockers. overnight stay from 17,50 €
tv room, laundry with tumble per bed in a 12-bed-room in
dryer, internet access. cre- the hostel and 44 € per night
ditcard accepted, wheelchair for a singleroom with priva-
friendly. te bathroom in the hotel.
no curfew, no lockout, no age breakfast all you can eat in-
hirtenstraße 18 80335 munich phone ++49-(0)89-55 21 660 fax ++49-(0)89-55 21 66 66 email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.the4you.de
holder: paritätischer wohlfahrtsverband lv bayern e.v., düsseldorfer straße 22, 80804 munich
For advertising enquiries please email
sporting photo: The Santiago Bernabeu, home of Real Madrid
in tHe first of our NEW ICoNS SErIES, we look At five of tHe fINEST SPorTING vENuES IN EuroPE.
In the first of a new Icons series, packed explores some of
the greatest sporting venues Europe has to offer, including
the home of football, the toughest climb in cycling, and the
most glamorous race track of them all.
packed magazine 21
Wembley Stadium Weekend itself in late May, race day tickets start at
In 1996 England hosted the European Football around €100. > www.acm.com
Championships under the slogan “Football’s Com-
Monaco on Grand Prix Weekend
ing Home”, and there is no better icon for the Honourable Mention: If you’ve got a car or motor-
home of the world’s favourite sport than Wembley bike then the Nürburgring in Germany is a most as
Stadium. Originally built in 1923 it hosts England’s you can rock up, pay entry, and drive the famous
international football matches, as well as the final of course yourself. You can get more information on
football’s oldest competition, the FA Cup. In 2007 the website at > www.nuerburgring.de
the new Wembley Stadium was opened, built on
top of the old structure, with a new landmark to Berlin's Olympiastadion
replace the famous twin towers, a soaring arch de- It may become known as the venue where Zinedine
signed by Norman Foster. If you can’t be in London Zidane famously lost, and then used, his head dur-
for a game you can take a tour of the stadium, with ing the final moments of the 2006 World Cup Final,
photos (from top to bottom): the Olympiastadion Berlin / Lance Armstrong on the Alpe d’Huez /
the overriding sense of underachievement subject but the iconic status of this stadium in the western
to availability. > www.wembleystadium.com suburbs of Berlin dates back seventy years before,
to 1936 and the Olympic Games hosted in Nazi
Honourable Mention: Other stadiums oozing with a Germany. What was designed as a showcase for
sense of footballing history in Britain include Ibrox the National Socialist system, and immortalised in
and Celtic Park in Glasgow, Anfield in Liverpool, the films of Leni Riefenstahl, became legendary for
and Old Trafford in Manchester, all of which offer unintended reasons. The most memorable achieve-
tours and museums dedicated to the history and ment of the games was that of Jesse Owens, a
achievements of their respective clubs. black American athlete whose four gold medals
provided a neat response to Nazi ideas of racial
Monte Carlo superiority. The Olympic complex, many of which
Motor racing has always been a glamorous sport, still dates back to the 1930s, is an awesome sight,
and there is no more glamorous race on the For- whilst the renovations of the stadium itself are well
mula One calendar than the Monaco Grand Prix. worth checking out on a tour, or by watching a
The first race was held way back in 1929, and it is match of the local team Hertha BSC.
still the race drivers want to win during their ca- > www.olympiastadion-berlin.de
reer. What makes it unique is that it is one of the
few tracks that still run on what are normally city Honourable Mention: Europe has hosted the
streets, winding its way through the palaces, mil- Olympics a number of times, and other surviving
lionaires’ apartments and casinos of Monte Carlo Olympic Stadiums that are well worth a visit include
and La Condamine. Because of this, it is possible Munich, Moscow, Rome, and Barcelona.
to visit the circuit for free, just by walking around
the Principality, including the famous harbour, ca-
sino corner and the tunnel, although spending any Alpe d'Huez
time in Monaco will be heavy on the wallet. If you Despite its problems in recent years, the Tour de
want to see the action during the Grand Prix France remains one of the iconic sporting events
22 packed magazine
in Europe. Although by nature the Tour cov- some have even played for both, and the
ers all parts of the country, it is perhaps the stadiums that they have graced are icons
mountains where its soul lies, and the most in their own right. In Madrid, the Bernabéu
famous of all climbs is that of Alpe d’Huez. has seen unprecedented success, with
Almost every year the tour makes the ardu- Real winning more European Cups than any
ous journey to the top of Alpe d’Huez, and other team. In Barcelona they have also cel-
thousands of amateur cyclists follow in the ebrated many triumphs, but in some ways
cycle path of their heroes as they attempt the magic of the Camp Nou lies in how it
the fourteen-kilometre climb themselves. has become a repository for the feelings of
It starts at the town of Le Bourg d’Oisans, a local community, expressed best in FC
and although very few will ever get near the Barcelona’s motto, “More Than a Club.”
thirty-seven minute record it remains an im-
pressive achievement for those who make
Both stadiums have excellent museums and
tours; check out > www.realmadrid.com
where it all began...
it. For the less adventurous, watching this and > www.fcbarcelona.com for more Of course, these five venues are
photos: Two Thousand Years of Stadium Design – Wembley and the Colosseum / Pula arena
stage during the Tour is one of the great free information. iconic for their roles in modern
spectator events anywhere in the world, as sports, but what about the stadiums
thousands line the roadside to cheer the Honourable Mention: There are many great that entertained people way back in
riders on. This year the stage to Alpe d’Huez football stadiums around Europe, and more the ancient world. The most famous,
takes place on the 23rd July. often than not it is the fans of these teams, and arguably the inspiration for all
> www.letour.fr as much as architecture, that makes them stadium design, is the Colosseum in
great. There’s no way we can list them all, Rome. Other surviving Roman are-
Honourable Mention: Other famous stages but if you get a chance to see a game at the nas include Verona in Italy, Pula in
in the mountains include the Col du Tourma- San Siro in Milan, the Velodrome in Mar- Croatia, and Arkles in France.
let, Mont Venout and the Hautacam, whilst seille, or the Westfalenstadion in Dortmund,
The other giant of the Ancient world
every year the tour reaches its conclusion you won’t be disappointed.
is Greece, and there you can visit
on the Champs-Élysées in Paris. what is perhaps the granddaddy of
The most famous hors-catégorie peaks in- all sporting venues, Olympia, where
clude the Col du Tourmalet, Mont Ventoux, the ancient games were held. In
Col du Galibier, the climb to the ski resort of Athens you can also check out the
Hautacam, and Alpe d'Huez. restored Panathinaiko Stadium that
was excavated and restored first of
all for the inaugural modern Olym-
The Camp Nou and the Bernabéu pics in 1896, and then again in time
Yes, we bottled out of making the choice. for 2004 Games when the Olympic
For the final of our five iconic sporting ven- flame once more returned to its
ues we return to football, but this time to
Spain, and the home grounds of two of Eu-
rope’s most famous clubs. Some of the fin-
est footballers the world has ever seen have
played for Real Madrid and Barcelona, and your opinion
Dispute our choices? Think we’ve gone and got it completely
wrong? Drop us a line at email@example.com and tell
us your iconic European sporting venues.
THERE IS ARGUABLY NO BETTER PLACE TO BE IN SPRINGTIME THAN PARIS, AND HERE AT PACKED WE WANTED
TO DELVE A LITTLE DEEPER INTO THE DELIGHTS OF THIS WONDERFUL CITY. SO WE ASKED LOCAL RESIDENT AND
EXPERT RICHARD NAHEM TO SHOW US AROUND HIS NEIGHBOURHOOD…
As die-hard native New Yorker, I moved - were built. The neighborhood thrived as an
to Paris lock, stock, and barrel in 2005, enclave for royalty and the wealthy until 1682,
making a long time dream of living in my after King Louis XIV moved to Versailles.
favorite city finally happen. I was lucky en-
ough to find the perfect apartment within After that, the fickle rich and up and moved
10 days, in the Marais district. In the eight to St. Germain des Pres and Versailles to be
years before I moved here, I stayed with closer to the king. By the 1800’s, the area went
friends who lived in the area and got to from the city’s most affluent, to the poorest,
know it fairly well. The Marais was a grit- most densely populated, becoming primarily
ty, almost no mans land neighborhood for a Jewish and working class district. The mag-
the longest time, until about 30 years ago nificent mansions were abandoned or turned
when the controversial Pompidou Center into factories and many left to ruin. In 1925,
was built. architect Le Corbusier, made a radical city plan
to raze the buildings of the Marais and replace
Slowly the working class and mostly poor them with 800 ft. skyscrapers. By the early
neighborhood became a destination, 1960’s the area had become so rundown that
thanks to the crowds drawn to the Pompi- Andre Malraux, statesman, author and the first
dou, and a proliferation of cafés, home and minister of culture under President Charles de
clothing boutiques, art galleries, bars, and Gaulle, stepped in. Malraux claimed that these
restaurants in the 80’s & 90’s transformed buildings were the core of French history and
it into the one of the trendiest and hippest needed to be maintained and refurbished.
neighborhoods in Paris. Thanks to Malraux, the buildings were painstak-
ingly restored to their original splendor. Many
Marais History of them were bought by the city and made into
government offices & museums or by private
Once I moved, I began to discover its fascinat- institutions.
ing history. The Marais, which literally means
marshland, is one of the oldest areas in Paris. Today, one can roam through the Marais and
Starting in the 600’s, religious monks, because admire some supreme examples of these build-
of the fertile soil, planted vegetable gardens ings including the hotel de Beauvais, built in
on small plots of land. In the 1500’s, the nobles 1655, hotel de Sens, one of the few medieval
and the aristocracy were looking for a place castles in Paris, and the stately Hotel Soubise.
to build their private mansions and chose the
Marais because it had not yet been developed. Something for Nothing
In the next 200 years, over 120 of these magnif-
icent and opulent mansions- hotel particuliers The Marais is chock full of cultural institutions
24 packed magazine
& small museums, with free admission There is free WiFi, so you can check
and parks and gardens. For a fascinat- your emails while lazing on a park bench
ing look at the history of Paris, visit the under the shade. On the weekends, you
Carnavalet museum, the former palace can listen to the melodic sounds of either
of Madame Sevigne. In the mid-1600’s, a great jazz band or a 12 piece classical
Sevigne was the one of the most cel- orchestra that play on either side of the
ebrated and revered social hostesses’ of square, usually starting in the afternoon.
her day and was famous for over 1,000 After you’ve had your fill of food and
letters she wrote, recording the history music, experience the world of Victor
and gossip of her days. Don’t miss the Hugo, author of the classic book Les
lush, formal gardens in a peaceful court- Miserables, in his former home that is
yard inside the museum. now a museum.
The Swedish Cultural Center, a former The magical Marais has it all, and in fact
hotel particulier, is now a small gallery many people who stay there fall in love
that houses quirky and modern exhibits with it and hardly ever see the rest of
of Swedish artists and designers. A café the city.
with Swedish delicacies, like smorgbord
sandwiches and coffee cake, has tables - RICHARD NAHEM.
in the lovely cobblestone courtyard.
Don’t miss the chance to enjoy a small
gem of museum, the Cognacq Jay, which
was a department store heir’s home in
the late 1800’s, and a showplace of 18th
century art treasures.
Stroll over to the Place des Vosges, the
The Marais is the premiere gay and lesbian area of the city. Rue St.
city’s oldest and prettiest square, dotted Croix is the unofficial/official gay street with gay owned boutiques
with art and sculpture galleries, cafes and an excellent, well-stocked bookstore. Rue des Archives and rue
and restaurants. Grab a tasty sandwich Vieille du Temple have the most popular bars and cafes including Bar
to go for under 5 euros and a yummali- Cox, Open Café, Amnesia, Le Central, and Le Feeling. Feel free to
cious macaron for dessert at the best hold hands or be affectionate with your partner or lover, as the Pari-
bakery in Paris, Gerard Mulot, and have sians are gay tolerant.
a pleasant lunch in the lush, beautiful
Louis XIII park surrounded by fountains
and rows of sculpted square trees.
packed magazine 25
Trendy restaurants and hip cafes are the order of
business but there are some food bargains. Rue de
Rosiers, the last remaining bastion of the Jewish
quarter, is lined with Jewish style bakeries & delis
and falafel stands. All the falafel stands/restau-
rants fight over who is the best, even though they
pretty much are the same, and 5 euros buys you a
non-Burger King whopper of a delicious, overstuffed
sandwich. Great for vegetarians in a city of carni-
Even though the name is an obvious cliché, Creperie
Suzette serves some of the best savory and sweet
crepes in the city. Order the Barbette with fresh
cream, potatoes, bacon, and egg and wash it down
with a glass of apple cider.
Les Philosophes Café is the scene and be seen place,
with a versatile menu of French favorites. A filling
homemade country pate sandwich on a baguette with a
glass of wine is a best buy at under 10 euros.
Hipsters unite at the uber-
popular dive bar & café La Carnavalet Museum 23 rue de Sevigne, 3d arr.
Perle, with surprisingly good, Swedish Cultural Center 11 rue Payenne, 3d arr.
inexpensive food. Open day Musee Cognacq Jay 8 rue Elzevir, 3 arr.
and night, the red-wine drink- Gerard Mulot Boulangerie 6 rue de pas de la Mule, 4th arr.
ing & Gitanes smoking 20 Victor Hugo Museum 6 place des Vosges, 4 arr.
something crowd usually spills Creperie Suzette 24 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 3d arr.
over into the street. Les Philosophes Café 28 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th arr.
La Perle 78 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3d arr.
6 rue de Fourcy, 11 rue du Fauconnier, 12 rue des Barres, 4th arr.
Richard Nahem is a Paris expert, and writes an
insiders blog www.eyepreferparis.com.
He leads private walking tours -
www.eyepreferparistours.com - based on
places he writes about on his blog, showing visi-
tors the Paris they usually don't see on their own.
pamper yourself at Backpackers Villa Interlaken Attractive rates from € 22.-
Book online: www.villa.ch no booking fee! "all you can eat" continental breakfast
all linen, a comfortable duvet & towel
personal lockers in each room
free fully equipped self-catering kitchen
free wireless-lan (for your laptop-PC)
free entry to public pools, spa & gym
Alpenstrasse 16 · CH-3800 Interlaken
Tel. +41 (0)33 826 71 71 · firstname.lastname@example.org
free parking facilities
anuncio hello 2 18/7/07 09:58 P�gina 1
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
We’re waiting for you
Dormitories • Private rooms • Free internet
Free breakfast • Kitchen • Gym • Bar
tea in tu
IT IS NOT ONLY THE BRITISH WHO MAKE TEA DRINKING INTO A NATIONAL PASTIME, AS EMILy SENGER
DISCOVERED AS SHE EXPLORED THE WONDERFuL DELIGHTS OF TuRKEy.
The tinkling of tiny metal spoons stirring I step into the streets of Sultanahmet and am
sugar cubes into strong, black tea punc- greeted by blaring car horns, the smell of burn-
tuates the conversation of Turkish men. It ing rubber on hot asphalt and vendors hawking
will also provide the soundtrack to my jour- their wares. This is the old part of the city where
ney through Istanbul and down the Turkish tourists flock to marvel at the 2000-year-old
coast. Hagia Sophia and the minarets of the Blue
Mosque and to explore the twisting avenues of
As I explore awe-inspiring ruins, wander the Grand Bazaar.
through rug markets and bask on pic-
turesque beaches not a day passes without I get out my map and immediately a shop-
at least one cup of tea. In Turkey where 99 keeper comes to my aid. In my travels through
per cent of the population is Muslim, tea Turkey all I have to do is consult my map and
substitutes for alcohol, but it is also a way at least one friendly man will walk over and
of life. Despite a hot Mediterranean climate offer his help. Helpful directions are usually ac-
men gather at all hours of the day in out- companied by a request to drink tea, buy a rug,
door cafes to socialize over delicately tiny “go to disco” or some combination of the three.
cups of chai—the Turkish word for tea. This shopkeeper is no exception.
I discover Turkish tea on my first day in “You like tea? Come in, come in,” he beckons
Istanbul. With a population of 16 million, after pointing me in the right direction.
Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey and
the biggest city I have ever been in. I am I deny a chorus of tea-drinking requests as I lug
alone, it is hot, few people speak English my backpack uphill towards my hostel.
and I haven’t slept since leaving the com-
fort of my London hostel at 2 a.m. the day A Cultural Experience
Later that evening, I set out to explore the
First Impressions narrow cobbled streets, which are lined with
restaurants and rug shops. One shopkeeper is
I make it from the airport onto the ferry and more persistent than the rest.
travel across the Bosphorus Straight, which
divides the Asian and European sides of Turkey. “No, no,” he replies when I refuse his request
On the ferry a bearded man walks between the to drink tea. “This is Turkey, we drink tea. You
plastic chairs balancing tiny glass cups of tea don’t have to buy a rug, we have cultural expe-
on a tray. The trip is less than 20 minutes, but rience.”
everyone drinks tea. I just watch.
28 packed magazine
I succumb, entering the dimly-lit shop. the translation has something to do with the port city of Çanakkale. By mid-June
We wander through three floors of car- charity, but gives up. Like many things the city will be swarming with tourists
pets, woven in rainbows of reds, blues on my journey through Turkey, there are passing through to see Gallipoli, the
and golds. The shopkeeper explains how no words to explain and I am content to famous WWI battle site, and what are
the designs on each carpet tell a story observe. So we sip our tea and watch the thought to be the ruins of Troy. But it’s
about the person who wove it. swooping seagulls. early May, the hostel is almost empty
and I feel like the only tourist. I join a
We finish the cultural lesson by climbing Through my Turkish travels the tea is al- few other backpackers in a café on
to the top floor balcony. Surrounded by ways the same: served black and strong the seawall for the evening. We smoke
piles of rolled-up rugs, we drink tea and out of tiny glass cups on tiny glass sau- apple-flavoured tobacco from a giant
gaze out at the six spiraling minarets of cers. No milk, no lemon, but always two water-pipe, drink tea and swap tales of
the Blue Mosque. As dusk settles the call sugar cubes perched on the side of the adventure. In the morning we will imagine
to prayer rings out. The haunting Arabic saucer. There are no handles, but if the ourselves inside a Greek legend as we
chant calling Muslims to prayer is played glass is too hot you pick it up by the sau- tour the ruins of Troy.
over mosque speakers five times each cer, I am told.
day—at dawn, at noon, in the afternoon, My next stop is Selçuk, best-known for
in the evening and after the sun goes After dinner I meet up with a Canadian the nearby Roman ruins of Ephesus.
down. friend and we spend the next four days
exploring Istanbul in awe. In our adven- I opt-out of the 40 Lira (just over 20 Euro)
The next day I will remove my shoes, tures we are scrubbed down by half- Ephesus tour package and get up early
cover my hair with a scarf and enter the naked Turkish women in the Çember- to take a dolmus, which is basically a
Blue Mosque, but this evening I watch laitas Hamam—a 16th century bath; we mini-van with no air conditioning and a
and listen from afar. stumble upon a street of nine maniquine bunch of seats crammed in. (optional
shops; we watch in horror as a man cut) This particular bus is filled with
Hundreds of seagulls swoop between scoops leeches out of a vat with his bare kids who look about 13 or 14. There is a
the minarets. I am told there is a logi- hand and plops them into jars for dozens single seat left beside one of the boys. I
cal explanation: the birds are drawn to of eager customers. We eat spicy kebap know informal Turkish bus rules say I’m
the bright lights used to illuminate the and rice, pastries dripping with honey not supposed to sit next to a man unless
mosque, but there is something ethereal and rosewater-infused Turkish delight. he is my family member or husband, but
in the white points floating over the blue We wash it all down with tea. I’ve already paid. I gesture to the seat.
dome in the dark night sky. nate the ruinous medina. The other kids erupt into giggles. The
boy who I propose to sit next to looks
Below the birds, there is a message Out from Istanbul embarrassed and I’m glad I don’t speak
spelled out in lights on a massive ban- Turkish.
ner. I ask what the Arabic script means I could explore Istanbul for months, but I
and my new friend tries to explain that bid farewell to my friend and move on to I am rewarded for my decision to opt-out
packed magazine 29
Emily Senger is a Canadian who
trekked through Turkey and
the Balkans solo last summer.
She currently lives in Ottawa,
Ontario where she is completing
graduate studies in journalism and
dreaming of her next adventure.
of the package tour. Ephesus is on a hill with water. Drink very slow and with
and my bus stops at the lower gates while food.”
all the other tourist busses stop at the top.
I am transported back in time as I explore My backgammon partner stifles a chuck-
rows of sarcophagi and the amphitheatre le. He doesn’t get a warning.
without the throngs of other tourists. The
sun blazes down and I am alone except for My next destination is the resort town of
the bees buzzing around the crimson pop- Bodrum. There is more money here than
pies and a team of archeologists who are anywhere else in my Turkish travels and
restoring the theatre steps. sailboats from around the world are lined
by the hundreds. I’m tired of exploring
As I walk into the library it gets crowded, ruins and spend my last two glorious
photos Stockholm riviera in winter
but thousands of tourists come here for a days in Turkey eating fresh fruit from the
reason. It is impossible not to be awestruck market, basking in the sun and swimming
by the marble streets of this ancient city. in the ocean.
As I board the ferry to head to the Greek
islands I slowly sip my final Turkish tea as
Drink Slow, With Food the shoreline disappears behind me. In
the days to come I will miss this ritual, but
In the evening I make friends with another I am in love with Turkey and I take solace
Canadian and we sit at a street-side café in the fact that this won’t be my last cup
drinking tea, eating sunflower seeds and of Turkish tea.
playing backgammon. I am the only woman
in the café, an experience I am getting - EMILY SENGER.
used to. Turkish cafes are a man’s domain.
It’s not that women aren’t allowed in them,
they just don’t go. Since I’m with a man I
throw caution to the wind and after loos-
ing two games straight and I suggest we
switch from tea to raki—a potent anise-
seed liqueur made in Turkey.
My glass comes with a warning.
“Very strong,” says the waiter. “You mix
30 packed magazine
Copenhagen I’ll be the first to admit I’m a bit of an amusement park seafaring history, passengers board tiny Viking ships in
photos: Thrills but hopefully no spills at the Tivoli Gardens
enthusiast. I’ve trekked far and wide in search of the lieu of horses.
world’s best-known thrill rides with the tallest drops, the An afternoon at Tivoli goes fast – wait around for three or
fastest speeds and the steepest loops. So when I was four attractions, and it’s suddenly dinnertime. Stopping
recently offered the opportunity to visit Copenhagen, I only to grab a pint of Carlsberg and a herring smorrebrod
jumped at the chance, dreaming not of Viking legends or – a traditional open-faced sandwich – we returned to
Hans Christian Andersen but of the Tivoli Gardens, the the park at dusk to find it transformed into a shimmer-
Danish capital’s fabled fun park, built in 1843. ing wonderland, with over 100,000 twinkling lights. We
joined hand-holding couples and awestruck children to
Upon arrival, I realized I’d made a grievous error. To call partake in the park’s nightly summer tradition: a musical
the Tivoli Gardens an amusement park is a tremendous fountain show with laser beams and fireworks.
disservice. Yes, the park offers its share of thrills and
spills, but it’s also one of Copenhagen’s most iconic lo- It was then I realized how much I’d underestimated the
cales, offering leisure in the grand – yet fun-loving – style many charms of the Danish capital and Tivoli Gardens as
of the Danes. In place of a crowded midway, the park well. The Danes are well known for working hard, but af-
features landscaped gardens with Chinese pagodas ter a day in their classic 19th-century pleasureland, you’ll
and sailing ships. Though junk food is plentiful, elegant be certain they play hard, too.
eateries also entice visitors. Outdoor rock concerts are
commonplace, yet the most popular live acts are the - CURTIS WONG.
pantomimes, a staple since 1874. And while tourists are
abundant, you might be astonished to find the park filled
with locals on a summer evening. don’t Miss
The Little Mermaid – for some, she’s the fairytale her-
Of course, I came seeking white-knuckle excitement,
oine from fathoms below; for others, an overexposed
and that’s exactly what I got, in the form of more than
female on a rock. But Denmark’s leading lady, based
a dozen thrill rides. First up was the Demon, a state-of- on the H.C. Andersen character and erected in 1913,
the-art “floorless” roller coaster. Once we were seated simply demands that you do not ignore her.
and strapped in, the boarding platform dropped out from
Christiania – This partially self-governing neighbor-
below our train, leaving our feet dangling freely above hood has long been a haven for the city’s hippies and
the track as we scaled drops, inversions and a mind- squatters. While not as free loving as it once was, the
spinning corkscrew. Wanting proof of your adrenaline? district is a lively place where anything can – and often
No problem – a camera snaps photos of riders in various does – happen. Just use your imagination.
stages of glee, for sale at the ride’s end. vor frelsers Kirke – Not for the faint-of-heart, the
climb up the outdoor spiral staircase of this church’s
Other exhilarating moments lay ahead, in the form of Det corkscrew spire offers unparalleled city views. If you
Gyldne Tarn, where we blasted off to a dizzying heights look closely, you might even see Sweden across the
above the city before experiencing weightlessness, as way!
well as a spin on the Himmelskibet, where chains and a Nyhavn – Though crowded with tourists, this colorful
seemingly thin bench separated us from being catapulted waterfront area, once the home of H.C. Andersen, is
into the abyss. The 1914 roller coaster Rutsjebanen postcard-perfect Copenhagen.
packed a surprising punch. And don’t forget to take in NY Carlsberg Glyptotek – founded by the Carlsberg
the merry-go-round where, in reference to the nation’s Brewery, this fine museum is known for housing the
largest collection of paintings, sculptures and artifacts
32 packed magazine in northern Europe. The Degas bronzes – one of only
three complete sets in the world – are reason enough
photos : The beauty of the Old Town is just one side of Tallinn’s character
One of the new kids on the global block, the Republic
of Estonia is probably best known for winning the 2001
Eurovision Song Contest with their mediocre party hit
‘Everybody’. Hosting duties for the following year’s cer- don’t Miss
emony were bestowed upon the Baltic nation, a fitting
tribute to its first notable dalliance on the world stage.
St Olaf’s Church – climb the spire for the best
Love it or hate it, Eurovision chic permeates the clubs
views of Tallinn’s stunning Old Town and marvel
and pubs of Estonia’s capital Tallinn and is in many ways
at its post-1991 transformation from KGB radio
a metaphor for the city’s cultural bent. tower and surveillance centre to tourist attrac-
Estonia’s apparent obsession with mid-90s dance music
is symptomatic of the 17-year old republic’s mad scram- Russian Market – keen to get your mitts on some
ble to catch up with the consumption levels enjoyed by Eastern Bloc fashions, military memorabilia or
their Western neighbours. In an incredibly short period of perhaps a crate of rusty junk hawked by an un-
time, its folkloric roots and Soviet past have been infused shaven old man? There’s something for everyone,
with Starbucks, Britney and EasyJet. including fresh food, fur coats and German litera-
This historical hybrid is most evident in Tallinn; its im-
Estonian pancakes – a national specialty, these
pressive Old Town is hampered by mushrooming global
thick doughy pancakes come in a variety of meat-
chains competing for attention amongst the fascinating
filled savoury or sugar-laden incarnations.
scars of Russian and German occupation. Most visitors
get stuck in the Old Town like ants in honey. Its coiled Kadriog Park and the Baltic coastline – this
cobbled alleyways boast some of Europe’s best pre- colourful deciduous expanse is popular with
served historical architecture, thanks to the minimal war dog-walkers and home to Kadriog Palace, which
damage and piecemeal redevelopment at the hands of houses the Museum of Foreign Art. Emerge from
the economically stagnant Soviet Union. its northern edge and you’ll find yourself on the
white sands of Tallinn Bay, where you can follow
Almost half of Tallinn’s population are Russian and a the coastline all the way up to Pirita beach.
popular tourist attraction is the Russian market where
you can pick up faded Soviet political posters, military Mid-90s clubbing – Mash it up with Estonia’s yoof
to R&B remixes and techno ‘classics’ long-since
kitsch, or just a nice pair of polyester slippers and some
abandoned in the recesses of your mind. Top
Taiwanese-made electrical goods.
spots include Angel, Tallinn’s best gay club, and
Throw in a generous serving of Anglo backpackers and, multi-level dance emporium Club Hollywood,
in summer, liberal lashings of bucks and hens who fly where Wednesday is Ladies’ Night (women get in
direct to the Baltic capitals via carbon criminals Ryan Air free but everyone can ogle the semi-naked, oiled
and EasyJet. A plethora of cheesy dance clubs and Irish up Backstreet Boys dancers).
pubs cater to the drunken masses, although it’s still pos-
sible to find authentic bars where real Estonians go to
slurp the local turps.
- BRIANNA SUMMERS.
packed magazine 33
Dubrovnik Our first night in Dubrovnik, and my friends and I by any visual thing, by any scene, as I did by the
set out to explore: enchanting as this coastal gem moon’s orb shining in a broad sweep across that
is by day, it only finds its fulfillment when dusk, dark sea.
roseate and slow, envelops it. What use is it to Feeling myself in the presence of something sa-
say the Old Town is beautiful? The word has been cred, I thought of people I would like to share this
squandered on vulgarities. Dubrovnik, worshipped with. After a little while we walked down another
by the green Adriatic at its feet, is a vision of some set of steps, to a landing where the sea splashes
celestial city the world no longer believes in, a were louder. A ferry, lit up like a vagabond cabaret,
glimpse of perfection that fills you with longing. made its way across the horizon. It moved almost
as imperceptibly as the moon itself. As I watched,
photos: Dramatic Setting – the Old City of Dubrovnik
You enter by crossing a drawbridge to pass it suddenly occurred to me that all those faraway,
through a gate in the ancient city walls. All the beloved people I had been missing were in fact
trees look vaguely Biblical, their foliage dark under present, represented somehow, in this impossible
the deepening cobalt of the sky. Within, lights are vista. The very way it engrossed me in the here and
turning on at the restaurants and cafes, glinting on now, paradoxically, brought the there and then right
streets and alleyways smooth as marble. into my lap.
Winding corridors lead away from the centre. It was not easy to leave. On the way home – the
Mounting the stairs and steep laneways, we felt as town’s lights now too bright – two of us stopped at
though we were backstage: in these shady pas- an Internet cafe, splitting a 15-minute session for
sages where residents hang out their washing, 5 kuna. We had a good laugh over our emails from
Dubrovnik’s real life and dramas go on. Climbing home. But it’s funny: such a moment as we had
higher, we turned a corner and saw before us a watching the moon and water makes me feel more
wooden sign. “The most beautiful view,” it prom- connected than email ever will.
ised, offering an arrow.
- MARIE GLANCY.
We followed the arrow, turned another corner.
And suddenly, at the streets’ pinnacle, without
ceremony, a simple hole in the city wall presented
itself. Through it was a landing. Below, clinging to don’t Miss
the fortifications, held precariously over a crashing
Here are some of the best tips for any visit to
nighttime sea, nestled a little open-air bar. It was so
Dubrovnik, so make sure you don’t miss the
charming and so quiet that it did not mar but even
accentuated the stunning surrounds.
We had little trouble understanding why the spot
was so quiet: we were dumbstruck. Barely did we • Walk around the city walls
talk for the hour we remained there, and anything • Museum at Rector’s Pala
we said, we whispered. I have never felt so silenced • Summer Festival Concerts
• A trip out to Lokrum Island
34 packed magazine • Dominican Monastery
formed movies. There are ten get a bad press, but across the city. Perform- the planet.
Austria various different categories at the Banlieues Bleues ers and artists from > www.photoshow.it
to the festival, but often the festival there is a more around the world come
SALZBURG most interesting and cre- positive message being to Budapest to take part, TURIN
MAsters of dirt ative entries can be found in offered. Some of the big- and the programme is so GAy And lesbiAn
9 MARCH the section devoted to films gest names in French jazz, varied you are sure to find filM Festival
Freestyle motorcross ac- made in only 48 hours. blues and hip hop will be something that interests 17-25 APRIL
tion in the Arena, with all > www.courtmetrage.be heading to Seine St Denis you. The Turin Gay and Lesbian
kinds of high adrenaline for the festival, that is a Film Festival has been
jumps and tricks from Denmark month-long celebration of challenging stereotypes
some of the best dirt-bike music and local culture. Iceland and conventions since
riders on the planet. COPENHAGEN > www.banlieues- it was founded in 1986,
> www.mastersofdirt. nAtfilM festivAl bleues.fr and has become arguably
com 28 MARCH – 6 APRIL the best film festival of
The biggest film festival in its type anywhere in the
werfen ice cAves Denmark takes place at the Germany world. Films are entered
FROM 1 APRIL end of March, with films in various categories from
The largest ice cave net- being screened in cinemas BERLIN around the world.
work in the world can be across Copenhagen, as well britspottinG > www.turinglfilmfesti-
found not far from Salz- as in Odense, Aalborg and 10-16 APRIL val.com
burg, and they are truly a Aarhus. The festival’s main The Britspotting Film
sight to see. Altogether aim is to promote Danish Festival comes to Berlin
they run 42km into the filmmakers, although there at the end of April, and Ireland
side of the mountain, and are a number of internation- showcases a number if
although only a fraction is al entries being screened independent British films DUBLIN
open to the public, they as well. at the ACUD cinema in REYKJAVIK st pAtrick’s dAy
are well worth checking > www.natfilm.dk Berlin-Mitte. The films into tHe blue
out. include everything from lAGoon
features to shorts via No, it’s not a dubious bar
MAYRHOFEN documentaries, and offers of ill-repute – and even
snowboMbinG a great overview of come if it was, in Iceland you
31 MARCH – 6 APRIL of the new talents coming couldn’t afford the prices.
Nearly two hundred out of the British film- The Blue Lagoon is actu-
DJs and live acts will be making scene. ally a unique geothermal
heading to the Tyrolean > www.britspotting.de spa where you can bathe
resort of Mayrhofen for in comfort, outdoors, even
the annual Snowbombing MUNICH in the midst of Iceland’s
festival, a week-long riot sprinG festivAl still-chilly Springtime.
of music, top snowboard- Finland 20 APRIL – 6 MAY Not only is it a cool thing
ers and crazy parties. If you can’t wait for the to do, but apparently it
The best boarders in the HELSINKI Oktoberfest, then head to is good for you as well,
world will be competing beer festivAl the Theresienwiese at the with the blue green algae 17 MARCH
for medals on the slopes, 11-12 APRIL end of April for the Spring being especially good for The 17th March will be
whilst the town drinks The Helsinki Beer Festival Festival, a fine collection the skin. celebrated in Irish pubs
itself into a stupor in the takes place every year, and of beer tents offering top > www.bluelagoon.com across Europe, but for
24-hour bars and endless 2008 marks the eleventh an- quality local brews, and the real St Patrick’s Day
DJ-sets. niversary of this celebration fairground rides - a com- experience, head to the
> www.snowbombing. of all things alcoholic. There bination that may or may Italy Irish capital. For five days
co.uk are beers, ciders and whis- not be such a wise idea, the city comes alive with
kies from around the world depending on how many MILAN music, theatre, films, pa-
Belgium waiting to be sampled, as large beers you sink. pHotosHow rades and exhibitions, and
well as local Finnish tipples 5-7 APRIL the odd pint of Guinness is
BRUSSELS and music to keep you en- One of the largest inter- drunk as well.
sHort filM tertained while you sup. Hungary national photography
festivAl > www.helsinkibeerfes- fairs in the world, Milan’s literAry pub crAwl
25 APRIL – 4 MAY tival.com BUDAPEST Photoshow is devoted to THU-SUN
The Brussels Festival sprinG festivAl everything and anything Dublin is famous for its
of Short Films offer the 14-30 March to do with cameras, in- Guinness and its great
chance for the goldfish France The biggest arts festival cluding a chance to check writers, so what better
amongst you to find a cin- in the country, the Bu- out the latest models, get way to combine the two
ema experience that suits PARIS dapest Spring Festival tips at special classes and than through a literary pub
your attention span, with bAnlieues bleues combines classical music, workshops, and check out crawl? Tours take you to
an international selec- 14 MARCH – 18 APRIL jazz, modern dance, films the work of some of the some of the haunts and fa-
tion of small but perfectly The Parisian suburbs of- and exhibitions at venues best photographers on vourite drinking dens of the
packed magazine 35
likes of Joyce, Beckett, KRAKOW Fallas is Valencia’s biggest experience, aided by the a great permanent collection
Shaw amongst others, to tHe sAlt Mines festival and is infamous for soundtrack of Metallica as well as superb temporary
and features commentary witH you its fireworks and burning as you make your way installations in the vast turbine
and performances on The Salt Mines at Wielic- effigies that illuminate the to the edge of the plat- hall, the best bit for budget
some of the most famous zka are accessible in a city streets over a riotous form… conscious travellers is that
pieces of Irish and Dublin day-trip from Krakow and week of fun. much of it is free.
literature. are open year round. The > www.fallas.com
> www.dublinpubcrawl. mine was operational for tHe boAt rAce
com 900 years, and in nine 29 MARCH
centuries they had a lot Switzerland If you want to see a little slice
DONEGAL TOWN of time to carve out the of English upper class tradi-
pAn-celtic festivAl stunning passageways tion, then check out the River
25-30 MARCH and caves, underground Thames on the 29th March
Live music from around lakes and even chapels, when the crews of Oxford and
the Celtic nations of Ire- that you can see now. Cambridge Universities take
land, Scotland, Brittany, > www.krakow-info. place in the annual boat race.
Wales, the Isle of Man com/wielicz.htm Turkey The two most famous universi-
and Cornwall. The musi- ties in the country have been
cians will be joined by ISTANBUL battling it out over this four
dancers, sportsmen and Slovenia istAnbul mile course since 1829, mak-
artists in this celebration internAtionAl filM ing it one of the oldest sporting
of Celtic culture. LJUBLJANA festivAl events in the world.
> www.panceltic.com MetelkovA Mesto 5-20 APRIL
A former military bar- The variety of films on
racks, the Metelkova offer at the Istanbul In-
Mesto is now an urban ternational Film Festival
space devoted to the al- is truly mind-blowing,
ternative cultural scene. with everything from full
A legendary meeting INTERLAKEN length features to shorts,
point for artists, travel- tAke tHe leAp via documentaries and
lers, and the young Fancy jumping off a moun- experimental art pieces,
people of the city, the tain with only a glorified from directors and film-
former soldiers’ blocks kite above you, and then makers from around the
have been pressed into floating serenely down into world. EDINBURGH
service as outlets for the city centre? Interlaken > www.istfest.org deAd by dAwn
Netherlands various cultural projects. is one of the best places to 24-27 APRIL
Exhibition spaces, artists have a go at paragliding, If you like horror films then
AMSTERDAM studios, a hostel, gay and with expert supervision united Edinburgh is the place to be at
Queen’s dAy lesbian clubs, an infor- and breathtaking views Kingdom the end of April, for the annual
30 APRIL mation centre and much of the Eiger, Mönch and Dead by Dawn film festival,
The Dutch celebrate their more all combine to cre- Jungfrau. LONDON the only one in the UK to be
Queen’s birthday – or at ate a truly unique and tAte Modern devoted entirely to scaring the
least, her mother’s – on creative atmosphere. tAke tHe leAp ii Set in a spectacular loca- crap out of its audiences. Films
the 30th April and turn it Or how about a 134m tion, in the shell of an old run all day until 3am, when the
into one big street party. bungee jump, suspended power station, the Tate after party takes the hard core
Over a million people Spain over the Lake Hinterstock- Modern has become through to morning and it all
will be on the streets of ensee, arguably the most one of London’s most starts again…just don’t go
Amsterdam for party that impressive jump in Eu- popular attractions since out alone!
goes on overnight and rope? A nerve-shredding it opened in 2000. With > www.deadbydawn.co.uk
through the next day, with
clubs and bars mark-
ing the day with special nextissue
events. coming up in the Summer edition of packed magazine. The new issue is available
across Europe from early May. free download from packedmagazine.com
Poland Euro 2008: a guide to all the footballing fun in Austria
VALENCIA and switzerland / iconic Summer Festivals / exploring
lAs fAllAs Moscow and St Petersburg / summertime in Rome /
Expect two million events and travel tips / plus destination spotlights Sarajevo,
people, explosions and Reykjavik, Valencia
fires, parades and the
odd glass of wine…Las
Advertisers book for suMMer issue now!
36 packed magazine
matesdirectory packed mates
packed is distributed at some of Europe’s best hostels. Enjoy your stay in Europe’s
quality hostels for backpackers and independent travellers. Stay with our mates!
Austria Bad Gastein Euro Youth Hotel & Krone www.euro-youth-hotel.de
Salzburg Yoho Hostel www.yoho.at
Youth & Family Guesthouse Salzburg www.jfgh.at/salzburg-e.php
Vienna Believe it or not Hostel www.believe-it-or-not-vienna.at
Hostel Huetteldorf www.hostel.at
Hostel Ruthensteiner www.hostelruthensteiner.com
Palace Hostel www.hostel.at
westend city hostel www.westendhostel.at
Wombat’s City Hostel www.wombats-hostels.com
Belgium Use-It - young tourist info www.use-it.be
Bruges St.Christopher’s @ The Bauhaus www.st-christophers.co.uk
CzechRep Cesky Krumlov Hostel 99 www.hostel99.com
Hostel Krumlov House www.krumlovhouse.com
Travellers hostel www.travellers.cz
Olomouc The Poets Corner Hostel www.hostelolomouc.com
Prague A&O City Hostels www.aohostels.com
Czech Inn Hostel www.czech-inn.cz
Hostel Advantage www.advantagehostel.cz
Hostel Boathouse www.hostelboathouse.com
Hostel Elf www.hostelelf.cz
Hostel U Melounu www.hostelumelounu.cz
PLUS Prague Hostel www.plusprague.com
Ritchie’s Hostel www.ritchieshostel.cz
Sir Toby’s Hostel www.sirtobys.com
Travellers hostel www.travellers.cz
France Nice Villa Saint Exupery www.vsaint.com
Paris C.h.e.a.p Hostels www.cheaphostel.com
Germany Berlin Amstel House Hostel www.amstelhouse.de
A&O City Hostels www.aohostels.com
BaxPax Hostel www.baxpax.de
Circus Hostel Weinbergsweg www.circus-berlin.de
citystay Hostel www.citystay.de
Generator Hostel Berlin www.generatorhostels.com
Globetrotter Hostel www.globetrotterhostel.de
Heart of Gold www.heartofgold-hostel.de
Helter Skelter www.helterskelterhostel.de
Lette’m sleep Berlin www.backpackers.de
MEININGER City Hostels & Hotels www.meininger-hostels.de
>> @ >> + Mitte’s Backpacker Hostel www.baxpax.de
Sunflower Hostel www.sunflower-hostel.de
St Christopher’s Berlin www.st-christophers.co.uk
Dresden Die Boofe www.boofe.de
Hostel Mondpalast www.mondpalast.de
Lollis Homestay www.lollishome.de
Hamburg A&O City Hostels www.aohostels.com
Munich A&O City Hostels www.aohostels.com
Easy Palace Station Hotel www.easypalace.de
Euro Youth Hotel www.euro-youth-hotel.de
Jaeger’s Hotel Hostel www.jaegershotel.de
MEININGER City Hostels & Hotels www.meininger-hostels.com
The 4 YOU www.the4you.de
Wombat’s City Hostel www.wombats-hostels.com
Nuremberg Lette’m sleep Nürnberg www.backpackers.de
Greece Athens Athens Backpackers www.backpackers.gr
Corfu The Pink Palace Hostel www.thepinkpalace.com
Hungary Budapest Best Hostel www.besthostel.hu
Home Made Hostel www.homemadehostel.com
Mandragora Hostel www.mandragorahostel.com
Mellow Mood Central Hostel www.mellowmood.hu
Hostel Marco Polo www.marcopolohostel.com
Ireland Dublin Avalon House Hostel www.avalon-house.ie
Italy Naples La Controra Hostel www.lacontrora.com
Rome Alessandro Hostels www.hostelsalessandro.com
2029_RZ_Ins_70x50_packedmag 14.9.2006 10:05 Uhr M&J Place Hostel www.mejplacehostel.com
Yellow Hostel www.yellowhostel.com
Latvia Riga Elizabeth's Youth Hostel www.youthhostel.lv
Friendly Fun Frank's Hostel www.franks.lv
Liechtenstein Youth Hostel Schaan-Vaduz www.youthhostel.ch/schaan
Netherlands Stayokay Amsterdam www.stayokay.com
Amsterdam St. Christopher’s The Winston www.st-christophers.co.uk
NO MONEY LEFT
The Bulldog Hotel www.bulldoghotel.com
The Flying Pig Hostels www.flyingpig.nl
Noordwijk The Flying Pig Beach Hostel www.flyingpig.nl
FOR A TRIP TO HAWAII?
Rotterdam Stayokay Rotterdam www.stayokay.com
Room Backpackers Hostel www.roomrotterdam.nl
Poland Krakow Atlantis Hostel www.atlantishostel.pl
Dizzy Daisy Hostel www.hostel.pl
Luckily, Swiss Youth Hostels are a holiday and Nathan’s Villa www.nathansvilla.com
The Stranger Hostel www.thestrangerhostel.com
a chance to save money all in one. Warsaw Nathan’s Villa www.nathansvilla.com
Hostel Helvetia www.hostel-helvetia.pl
Wroclaw Dizzy Daisy Hostel www.hostel.pl
SWISS Romania Cluj-Napoca
The Stranger Hostel
Retro Youth Hostel
YOUTH HOSTELS Slovakia
For more than just a night.
Spain Barcelona Barcelona Mar Hostel www.barcelonamar.com
Find out more at www.youthhostel.ch or by calling +41 (0)44 360 14 14. Kabul Youth Hostel www.kabul.es
Hello BCN Hostel www.hellobcnhostel.com
Barcelona/Madrid Equity Point Hostels www.equity-point.com
Sevilla Urbany Hostels www.urbanyhostels.com
Valencia Home Hostels www.likeathome.net
Switzerland Swiss Youth Hostels www.youthhostel.ch
Interlaken Backpackers Villa Sonnenhof www.villa.ch
Promote your hostel here for just Balmers Herberge
Happy Inn Lodge www.happy-inn.com
€ 150 per issue. Vevey-Montreux
> email@example.com uK Camden
St. Christopher’s Camden
Cardiff Backpacker Hostel
for more information! Edinburgh St. Christopher’s Inn
The Globetrotter Inn Edinburgh
Glasgow Bluesky Independent Hostel www.blueskyhostel.com
London Astor Hostels www.astorhostels.com
Meininger Baden Powell House www.meininger-hostels.de
St Christopher’s Hostels www.st-christophers.co.uk
The Generator Hostel www.generatorhostels.com
The Globetrotter Inn London www.globetrotterinns.com
WakeUp Hostel www.wakeuplondon.co.uk
Busnetworks Eurohop www.eurohop.es
rather be in... The Blue Lagoon, iceland
“dive into THE BIG BLuE FREEDOM”
- GerAld reisecker, publisHer of pAcked MAGAzine