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                                         t travellers
    Europe’s free magazine for independen

work europe
the packed guide to finding a job on your travels 16
tea in turkey
from Istanbul to the Mediterranean coast 28

packed icons
famous sporting venues across Europe 21

Paris 24 Copenhagen 32
Dubrovnik 34 Tallinn 33

free travellers tips. adventures. parties & events.
discounts. accommodations. tours & experiences.
magazine for independent travellers.
                  credits                                                                                        March/Aprilcontents
                  Editor in Chief
                    Paul Scraton
                Feature Writers
   Richard Nahem, Emily Senger,
      Curtis Wong, Marie Glancy,
               Brianna Summers
           Contributing Editors
    Colm Hanratty, Peter Hogan,
        Dave Long, Rob Savage,
                James Wright, ...

     CC-PLANT / Cornelia Heine
                   Photo credits
      in accordance with tourism
  authorities of Austria, Belgium,
         Croatia, Czech Republic,
 Germany Tourism and affiliates,
   Deutschland- Land der Ideen,                               In 2001, having finished uni-
    Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein,                            versity and with no real idea
   Holland, Netherlands, Poland,                              what it was I wanted to do
 Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland,
      Munich Tourism, Innsbruck                               next, I started a trip around
    Tourism, Interlaken Tourism,                              Europe for a few months. In
   Nuremberg Tourism, Salzburg                                the back of my mind I perhaps                          16 Work Europe
        Tourism, SalzburgerLand
Tourism, Cesky Krumlov Tourism                                had the idea that it would be                          A packed magazine guide to finding
                  and advertisers.                            nice to live somewhere other                           work in Europe, with plenty of advice and
                       Printed by        than England for a while, but I couldn’t have                               inspiration to get you started.
NP Druck, Gutenbergstr. 12, 3100
                                         imagined that my first destination would become
                                                                                                                          Icons: Sporting Venues
                        St. Pölten
                     Distribution        my home for the next seven years. But a friendly         21                 21
            GLS Express Courier          bunch of people at the Circus Hostel in Berlin                              From Wembley to the Camp Nou, we
                                         invited me for their hostel opening party, and                              explore some of Europe’s iconic sporting
             Gerald Reisecker            when I returned to the city after three months of                           venues.
                         Sales           wandering around the continent, they also offered
                   Alicia Cook
              +61 403 859 985
                                         me a job.                                                                   24   Paris: Magical Marais                                                                                          Local resident and tour guide               Working in the hostel café was a fascinating ex-                            Richard Nahem shows us around
                                         perience, and it is not too dramatic to say that it                         his neighbourhood of Marais, a truly
                   Next issue
                                         changed my life. I made many friends in the city,       24                  fascinating corner of Paris.
 Summer issue (May/June 2008)
                  Circulation            who are still my friends now long after I hung
                25,000 copies
                                         up my apron and moved to the other side of the                              28   On Tea in Turkey
          Publication interval           counter. I met the woman who would become               28                  Emily Senger explores the delights of
                   bi-monthly            my partner, and we now have a young daughter,                               Turkey, from tea in Istanbul to raki on the
                                         and alongside gaining a family and new friends,                             Mediterranean coast.
                                         living and working in Berlin has been a fascinat-
         Owner and Publisher
              packed magazine            ing and rewarding time, offering the chance to                              12   Real Travel Bug Tips
               REISECKER KG,             delve deeper into the culture of the country simply                         Travel tips from Real Travellers…the Travel
     Am Schnurrnbach 5/2, 5321
       Koppl (Salzburg), Austria.        through the experience of everyday life. If you                   12        Bugs of
                                         have ever had the idea that it would be nice not
   All material is strictly copyright    to just travel through a place, but actually stick
   and all rights are reserved. No
       part of this publication may      around for a while, then hopefully our Working                              destination spotlight
        be reproduced in whole or        Europe feature will give you some ideas, inspira-
      part without the prior written     tion and resources to help you on the way.                                  32 Copenhagen
       permission of the copyright                                                               32                  Curtis Wong takes us around the Tivoli
  holder. All data is correct at the
     time of publication. Opinions       Another expat, in Paris this time, is Richard Na-                           Gardens in the Danish capital.
  expressed in packed magazine           hem, who brings his knowledge of the city to
  are not necessarily those of the
     publisher - packed magazine         these pages with an article on the neighbourhood
                                                                                                                     34   Dubrovnik
     REISECKER KG, and packed            of Marais, an area of the city chock full of culture,                       Marie Glancy wanders around the
  magazine REISECKER KG does             nightlife, and the thing the French do best of all,                         wonderful Old Town of Dubrovnik.
      not accept responsibility for
                                         food and drink. Elsewhere, Emily Senger explores
advertising content. Any pictures
   or transparencies supplied are        the delights of Turkey, whilst our spotlights take us                       33   Tallinn
  at the owners risk. Any mention        to three wonderful cities in different corners of the                       Brianna Summers explores the historical
    of packed magazine or use of
    the packed magazine logo by          continent – Copenhagen, Tallinn and Dubrovnik.                              hybrid that is Tallinn.
                                         Added to all this, we have our usual collection of
 any advertiser in this publication
  does not imply endorsement of          travel tips, events, and our regular columnists to
 that company, or its products or
                                                                                                                     36 events & tips
    services by packed magazine          provide ideas for your travels, as well as an inter-         33
                   REISECKER KG.         view with the guys behind Trabant Trek, an inspir-
                                                                                                                     The best things to see and do across
                                         ing journey across two continents in old East Ger-
(c) packed magazine REISECKER                                                                                        Europe in spring.
                            KG           man cars to raise money for NGOs working with
                    March 2008           children in Cambodia. As always we hope you en-                             11   news & deals WIN WIN WIN!
                                         joy this edition of packed, Europe’s free magazine                          05   Colm Hanratty column
                                         for independent travellers, and if you have any                             05   iGrumble column
                                         suggestions, requests or indeed criticisms, please                          06   Savage Trips column
                                         drop me a note at                                 15   Trabant Trek interview
                                         Happy travels!                                                              37   packed mates
                                         – PAUL SCRATON.                                                        12
Check out Hos
    dget accommodation
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                                                                                                                             channel to mainland Europe -
                                                                                     iGrumble                                The Empire has shrunk somewhat
                                                                                                                             now America rules the world)
                                                                                                                             you’ll be looking for “travail au
                                                                                     iGrumble reveals the ins and            noir” in France, “zwartwerk” in
                                                                                     outs of making a quick buck             Belgium, “schwarzarbeit” in Ger-
                                                                                     on your travels                         many, “lavoro nero” in Italy, “tra-
                                                                                                                             bajar en negro” in Spain, “praca
                                                                                                                             na czarno” in Russia, "munca la
                                                                                                                             negru" in Romania, "pune ne te
                                                                                     You may well have got the im-           zeze" in Albania, and “svartar-
                                                                                     pression iGrumble spends all            bete” in Sweden.
                                                                                     day sniggering at you unwashed
                                                                                     band of dishevelled backpackers,        The price of a beer in Finland
                                                                                     unemployeds and general idlers          means moonlighting is obviously
                                                                                     from the magnificent splendour of       close to Finnish hearts, and they
                                                                                     ‘iGrumble Towers’, but no really,       certainly lead the world in ways
                                                                                     I’m here to help. Working (illegally)   to describe it. “Laiton tyonteko”
Colm does Florence.                                                                  in Europe. Been there, made the         means illegal working but could
Hostelworld.coM editor COLM HANRATTy reports                                         fortune, got away with it.* There       also could mean illegal im-
bAck to pAcked in eAcH edition froM A different city                                 are many ways of                                        migrants, handily
in europe. tHis tiMe Around, He HeAds for tHe                                        making some cash         “A viable                      giving you tax sav-
deliGHts of tHe RENAISSANCE CITy OF FLORENCE.                                        on your travels, all     alternative is                 ings and racialism

Now that I have reached my 30th           desire to stay in the great outdoors
                                                                                     with differing risk-
                                                                                     to-profit ratios. A
                                                                                                              working in the                 in one go. “Harmaa
                                                                                                                                             talous” refers to the
birthday, I sometimes look back           as much as possible. Thankfully,           rubber jonny full of
                                                                                                              pub, which                     grey economy, and
over the last number of years and         Florence is home to some of Italy’s        Bolivian marching        combines free                  the adorable “kuu-
think ‘how have I changed over            most vibrant squares and each              powder up your           drinks when                    tamokeikkailu” is
the last decade?’ It turns out I’ve       one is a real feast for the senses.        bum and a mega-          the manager                    good old fashioned
changed quite a bit. These days I
generously throw peppers (or cap-
                                          Piazza della Signoria, perpendicular
                                          to the entrance to the Uffizi, is one
                                                                                     stressful intercon-
                                                                                     tinental flight is the
                                                                                                              isn’t looking,                 moonlighting. I’d
                                                                                                                                             forgive you for think-
sicums as Antipodeans like to call        of the main arteries of the city and       most obvious, but
                                                                                                              and unlimited                  ing kuutamokeik-
them) into everything I create in the     it’s hard to think of a better place to    also runs the huge       sex."                          kailu (I swear I’m not
kitchen. Also, today I am happily         people watch.                              risk of decades                                         making this up) is
content when sipping on a glass                                                      rotting in a rat infested prison        impossible to pronounce after a
of red wine, when before I was a          Also, as a result of over 20,000           hell or a machine gun execution,        few pints. In truth, I would strongly
staunch supporter of white. Finally,      American students descending               or maybe even doing the pogo-           advise getting thoroughly rinsed
over the last twelve months I do my       upon the city annually, Florence is        elbow dance through customs             before you even attempt to say
utmost to attend my ever-busy gym         an extremely lively city once the sun      should jonny-go-pop during a            this, and forget about texting it to
more regularly than my equally-busy       settles behind the rolling Tuscany         bumpy landing.                          your mates as apparently the first
McDonalds. But one other aspect           hills, and most bars can be found in                                               predictive text option is ‘doctorI’v
of my life that has changed as I get      the Sante Croce district.                  Actually, a rubber jonny full of        egotarubberjonnyfullofdrugsstuck-
older is that I now have a greater                                                   drugs up your bum isn’t all that        upmebum’.
appreciation for art more than ever.      Florence is a classic Italian city.        stressful. Stressful is being one
That is why I looked forward to my        With some of the country’s best            of the three Kings at the school        * technically speaking I didn’t
trip to Florence so much.                 art galleries, it is a culture vulture’s   nativity play knowing you’ve            exactly get away with it, but hey,
                                          dream come true. But it is tailor-         scoffed all the (chocolate) gold        if Imelda Marcos can put up with
According to UNESCO, approxi-             made for those wishing to engage           coins backstage and have noth-          house arrest so can I!
mately 60% of the world’s most im-        in outdoor activities as there is so       ing in your pockets to present to
portant pieces of art can be found        much to do under the blue, Flo-            Baby Jesus except two melted            Next month: Shop-til-you-drop.
in Italy. Somewhere in the region         rentine skies. Most importantly (to        together chewy sweets, a leaking        iGrumble hits Harrods, if you buy
of half of these are in Florence.         some), there is a wealth of choice in      ink cartridge, Lego spaceman’s          cheap you buy twice!
It was, after all, birthplace of the      terms of after dark venues for those       legs, Sopranos lighter, four cans
Renaissance. Due to that, Florence        intent on dancing most of their way        of Guinness, and fluff of an un-        - JIMMY.
(or Firenze as the Italians call it) is   through their stay. So, as you can         identifiable origin.
home to Italy’s most important art        see, Florence has something for ev-
collection.                               eryone. Miss it at your peril.             A more viable alternative, and the
                                                                                     best for a laugh, is working in the
It’s not all about art though – due       - COLM                                     pub, which combines free drinks
to its Mediterranean climate, this is                                                when the manager isn’t looking
a city where you will need to feed a                                                 and unlimited sex from drunk
                                                                                     divorcees, and a brown envelope
                                                                                     full of tenners at the end of the
                                                                                     shift from the boss who is happy

packedspecial                                                                        to avoid paying for your student-
                                                                                     fever jabs and health insurance.
no booking fee with hostelworld
get your FREE Gold Card and pay no booking fee for
6 months. Choose from over 6,000 hostels throughout Europe and save                  What you’re after is a spot of
yourself some extra bucks for a beer or two.                                         ‘moonlighting’ as we call it in the                                                           Empire, but should you travel fur-
                                                                                     ther afield (i.e. 12 miles across the
Savage trips. Camden.
in tHe fourtH of His speciAl coluMns,
ROB SAVAGE froM st. cHristopHer’s
tAkes us on A sAvAGe trip closer to
HoMe, As He eXplores THE WONDERS

Hunter S. Thompson is a hero of mine. He inaugurated the age
of Gonzo journalism, mixed fact with brutal cynicism, blended
sarcasm with Rock and Roll and took on any authority figure
who dared to question his spin on things. In honour of Mr
Thompson here is my fear and loathing of traveller hot spots in        led to his early release. Unfortunately for them George was later
Camden.                                                                returned to his abode with barred windows after the Bank of Cy-
                                                                       prus brought him to justice for a separate robbery.
Just over 24-years-ago the Guardian newspaper reviewed a
performance at the Camden Palace by: “the most important               Further into Chalk Farm territory I came across the Round
new figure in the American dance scene.” I've never really             House. The one educational benefit of exposure to the afore-
thought of Madonna as a dance artist, but the chance to see her        mentioned culture fascists was the fascinating story behind this
point of entry on the UK music map was too good to pass up.            venue. As it turns out the perfect acoustics inside the rotund
                                                                       building were treated to the very first UK performance of Jimi
The venue - like her career is very much                                                  Hendrix. Since his debut the venue has also
alive and somewhat altered. It now goes                                                   hosted The Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Led Zep-
by the name of Ko Ko and the bands that
                                              “...his musical, mod-                       pelin, The Foo Fighters and many more big
play here are cool to the point where if      ern day contempo-                           brand acts. A short jaunt down the road from
you've heard of them – they're already                                                    here takes you to the Barfly. This compara-
old news. I spent several hours trying        rary, Amy Winehouse                         tively small stage earned its reputation by
to imagine how Hunter would describe          can be located on                           holding intimate evenings with the likes of
the skinny jean wearing, wannabe-cool                                                     Oasis and The Plain White T's.
scensters who somehow knew the in-            most nights at the
timate history of every emerging artist
before they even emerged. I decided
                                              watering holes within                        One musical skin full later, I decided it was
                                                                                           time to break some New Year gastronomic
pretentious, egocentric, fastidious, cul-     crawling distance.”                          and economic resolutions with a little walk
ture fascists was an appropriate title.                                                    through The Stables. This cobbled enclosure
                                                                                           was the home of London's yesteryear horses,
In dire need of an experience that wasn't described as wack,           but today it's the base of innumerable clothes stalls, nick nack
funky or out there, I tracked down the North London home of            vendors, furniture traffickers and food repositories. Never one
didactic, literary legend Charles Dickens. This is just around the     to back down from a challenge - I attempted to run the gauntlet
corner from St Christopher's - on Bayham Street and better yet,        of food pushers without buying anything. I subsequently discov-
his musical, modern day contemporary, Amy Winehouse can                ered that all these salesmen need is one second of naïve eye
be located on most nights at the watering holes within crawling        contact to draw you in and fill you to the brim with over-priced,
distance.                                                              MSG saturated goodness. Getting out without indigestion is
                                                                       tougher than your Grandmother's bunions.
Like many members of my jaded persuasion, I can only stand
crowds and street collectors for so long before I start reaching       This wouldn't be a Gonzo tribute without a narcotics reference
for sharp objects. Luckily enough the eponymous bench from             so on a final note, be sure to prepare yourself for the legions of
Notes on a Scandal is only five minutes north of Camden High           drug pushers who like London buses, all show up at once. On
Street on Primrose Hill. This sanctuary is a great point of orien-     these streets it's a different kind of crack to what's on offer in
tation, if like me you have a genetic predisposition towards mis-      Amsterdam's red light alleyways, but this stuff is as readily avail-
interpreting maps. The climb may well weed out the asthmatic           able and fetches a similar price. Good times.
smokers in the crowd but the view for those with the right lung
capacity is figuratively breath-taking. This is also one of the rare
vantage points in London where you can get a clear snap shot           - ROB SAVAGE.
of the city skyline, from London Bridge in the West to Big Ben in
the East.

During a concurrent wander towards Chalk Farm I found another
photo worthy sight. In close proximity to the canal there is a wall
decorated by international, graffiti artist extraordinaire – Banksy.
His prefabricated, spray-on stencils are no longer exclusive to
London, but it's in this city where he's the most notorious and
prolific. The alleged inspiration for his work was a 1970s graf-
fiti campaign that freed George Davis from jail. Campaigners
were convinced George never stole the payroll of the London
Electricity Board and their devotion to defacing public property

6   packed magazine
          Paris is Open!
                                                  The brand new St Christopher’s
                                                        Hostel is up and running!

                                                     - Less than ten minutes on the metro from
                                                       the Eurostar at Gare du Nord.

                                                     - Free Wifi, an internet café and no curfew.

                                                     - Sauna, nightclub and canal side terrace.

                                                     - Free Walking Tours.

                                                     - The backdrop from Amélie.

                                                     - Introductory rates and deals.

                                                     - Group Offers.

This has never been seen before in Paris! St Christopher’s have brought quality budget
         accommodation to the French capital and there’s nothing else like it.
            There’s nowhere in the world like the City of Lights when it comes to culture, creativity and couture. Unfortunately there aren’t
            too many places that allow you to explore the French capital for a fair price and that’s where St Christopher’s steps up to the
            challenge. We are situated in the most modern, vibrant and rejuvenated neighbourhood in Paris – the 19th District, and we offer
            great value accommodation.

            This former industrial area is a hotspot for superb nights out and romance along the scenic canals - featured in Amélie. You can
            reach us without breaking a sweat and when you’re settled into one of our brand spanking new rooms, it’s just as easy to head
            out again and see all the top attractions. We guarantee there are no other Hostels in Paris like this. Live it!

                     is                  M Crimée                                                                                                    Top Notch River Cruises
                                                                                 de                                                                  These are pretty inexpensive in Paris and you can usually
                                                                                      Jo                                                             get a multi-lingual ride for between €6 and €9. Just
                                                                                        inv                      se

                                                                                                            L’                                       stroll along the Seine near the Eiffel Tower and compare




                 Ru                                                                                                                                  contemporaneous prices.

                          e                                                                     ua                           ar


                              Du                                                              Q                             M


                                   ve                                                                                  la                     le

                                        rg                                                                         e

                                          ier                                                                    id                                  The Eiffel Tower

                                                                                                          a                        h   ion
                                                                                                       Qu                       eT                   It’s a cool icon and if you have to tick it off your to do list
                                                                                                                       Ru                            then go right ahead. However if you want to save a buck
      Rue Riquet                                                                                                                                     and snap some photos which include the tower, then head
                                                                                                                                             uad     for the Tour Montparnasse skyscraper.
                                         in  e
                                                                                                                                    n   Gir
Ro                                    Se               E                          ire                                           Leo
     ue                           a                ET                        Lo                                             e
                     d        el             VI
                                                 LL                     la                                             Ru
                                                                                                                                                     Public Transport in Paris
                  ai                    LA                     i   de
                Qu                 DE                         a                                                                                      The underground rail network is safe, cheap and it covers the
                         I    N                            Qu
                      SS                                                                                                                             entire city. It’s about €1.60 for a single journey to anywhere
                 BA                                                                           ou
                                                                                      a    nd                                                        and you save more when you buy a book of tickets.
                 M Stalingrad                                                Ru

                                                                                                                                                     Pere Lachaise
                                                                                                                                                     For something a little different take a trip to this celebrity
                                                                                                                                                     cemetery. It’s the final resting place of Mr Oscar Wilde,
                                                                                                                                                     Jim Morrison, Delacroix and a stunning mix of historically
                                                                                                                                                     significant figures.

            Musee d’Orsay
            This old train station now houses an eye opening collection of
            Impressionist masterpieces. Degas is a favourite front runner
            here, along with Monet, Manet and Toulouse Lautrec.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Montmarte (to north)
            The Louvre
            A 15-minute Metro ride takes you to the world’s most visited                                                                                          L’Arc De Triomphe
            historical repository. Mona Lisa and Delacroix fans will love                                                                                                Cha
                                                                                                                                                                                  s El
            this.                                                                                                                                                                     yse
                                                                                                                                                                                                Place de la
                                                                                                                                                                                                Concorde        RIGHT BANK
            Segway Tours                                                                                                                           Trocadero                                              Tuileries
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Les Halles
            These emission-less transporters are popular among tourists                                                                                                                       LEFT BANK
            in Paris and you can sort out a tour from reception. They                                                                                            Eiffel Tower                                   D’Orsay
            start at rue Edgar Faure and bike tours are on offer too!                                                                                                                         Invalides                                                   Marais
                                                                                                                                                               Champ de Mars
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Saint-Germain                    Notre Dame

            Skate Paris
            Cram all the sights into a couple of hours by attaching                                                                                                                                                                       Latin Quarter

            eight wheels to your feet. These pro and beginner                                                                                                                                                     Jardin du Luxemberg

            sessions are free every Friday and Sunday!                                                                                                                               Montparnasse
St Christopher’s Inns provide safe, clean and cheap                BRUGES
accommodation across Europe. We take great pride in our
reputation and believe like many of our customers, that we         Nowhere does Flemish flavour and hospitality like St
provide and maintain the highest standards in the budget           Christopher’s at The Bauhaus. We give you the great Bruges
accommodation sector.                                              Card which means fantastic discounts at all top tourist sites!
                                                                   You also get 50 flavours of beer at the bar, a cyber-cafe and
Every hostel has a bar attached to it, whether that’s a            bike rental - so you can do as the locals do.
Belushi’s Bar or a St Christopher’s Inn. If you like traditional
English pubs then the Inns are for you, but if you want some       BERLIN
late night contemporary culture then kick back at Belushi’s.
You can party all night long and still have money left over for    This is modern, metal, neon (in a good way) and rammed
a nice, greasy fry up.                                             with shiny happy people. There’s easy access to the U-
                                                                   Bahn - which means Potsdamer Platz, Kreuzberg, the
LONDON                                                             Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag and free walking tours
                                                                   are all easy options.
You have seven hostels in the British capital. Shepherd’s
Bush is near the gigs at the Empire, Hammersmith is new            BOOK YOUR BED ONLINE NOW
and connected to Heathrow, Camden takes you to the
musical bohemia of North London and Greenwich sets the             To book a bed in any of the St Christopher’s Inns across
time on the Meridian Line in the east. Near London Bridge          Europe just visit
we have three great bases. The Village is the flagship hostel
with a nightclub and rooftop hot tub, the Orient Espresso
- a café with a female only floor and The Inn with its vintage
16th century vibe.


The rooms are bright, the chill out room is chilled, there are
two bars and a restaurant downstairs and even the most
hung over travellers will have no trouble getting here. It’s a
two minute trek from the train station and is the best base
for exploring the nearby Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle and
Princes Street.


Bath is a combination of old school Georgian class and
new age St Christopher’s fun. Dip your toe in the only hot
spring spa in the UK, take the Bill Bryson tour of the Roman
Baths, check out the Jane Austen centre, munch on a Sally
Lunn Bun, see a show at the Theatre Royal and make an
expedition to Stonehenge.


If you want to be beside the seaside and fancy a bit of sun,
sea, sand and Sambuca then we can help. Our abode is
perched on top of a cliff, over looking Towan Beach. We
also hook you guys up with discounts at the Escape Surf



Everyone in this seaside city is genuinely happy without

Prozac and the best of the bunch reside at St Christopher’s.                          LONDON
We’re in a great sea side location with easy access to the                Newquay

pier attractions and all the funky retro stores.                                        Brighton

Where else can you find guided tours of a red light district,
Rembrandt’s house, the Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank’s
house, Tulips, “coffee shops” and cheap beer? In Amsterdam
- where you also find our budget art hostel and hotel.
       More for less with St Christopher’s Inns

               OUR Friends                                                      FREE StuFf

We have fun friends all over the place to make sure that you    Free Monthly Travel E-zine:
guys have a well rounded and fully entertaining experience.     The best event guides, tips from an international writing
We take care of the beds and bars, and then our buddies         team, advice for female travellers, musical beats, reads on
work out your muscles and synapses! The Winston Nightclub       the road, great give-aways and celebrity interviews!
blasts out fresh music every night, the Escape Surf School      »
dunks you in the English Channel and our affiliate hostels
take you to the cities that we haven’t got to yet!

                                                                Daily Updates:
                                                                Keep up to date with the latest travel news by reading our
                                                                daily Blogs at We seek out the
                                                                best parties and the most affordable beds, blend them
                                                                together and give you inspirational options!

                                                                With You As You Go:
                                                                Free Podcasts from St Christopher’s. We take the best
                                                                from the E-zine, the Blogs and the free walking tours at our
                                                                hostels, and put it on your pod!

                                                                            ONline Store

                                                                St Christophers Store:
                                                                Remember us forever with mementos from the St
                                                                Christopher’s Online Store.


                                    St Christopher’s Inns and Belushi’s - Paris
                                    159, rue de Crimée (next to the canal bridge),
                                                    75019, Paris
                                           Crimée, Line 7 (nearest metro)
                                              Tel: 00 33 1 40 34 34 40

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                                                                                  guide to fin
                                                                                             ding   a job on yo
                                                                                                               ur travels 16
                                                                      from Istanb
                                                                                 ul to
    The biggest problem is working out where you’ll go!! Big                             the Mediterra
                                                                                                      nean coast
    thanks to InterRail for donating such an awesome prize.           famous spor
                                                                                  ting venues
                                                                                              across Euro
                                                                                                         pe 21
                                                                     Paris 24 Cop
    So... flip through the March issue, and then                     Dubrovnik 34enhagen 32
                                                                                  Tallinn 33
    tell us what you think!


                    special promotion sponsored by
                                                                        We have teamed up with the many
                                                                        good folks on to bring
                                                                        you the best of their travel tips from
                                                                        their journeys around Europe. They
                                                                        were selected from the best of the
                                                                        “Recommendations” that can be
                                                                        found on, so if you are
                                                                        looking for more travel inspiration,
                                                                        check it out…

Oslo, Norway
Oslo is generally an expensive place to           lights tours, just drive your rental down to    out jumping off the 18m cliff into the sea in
visit. A good, cheap way of seeing the city       the bus station at the time the tours are       Budva! Easy-peasy once you've braved the
is by registering for the free bike scheme        leaving and follow them to the hot spots to     local mountain roads. Enjoy!
at the tourist office. Once you have an           see them. It is heaps cheaper and you can
electronic card (cost about 70 kroner) you        stay out a bit longer to view them.             Travel Bug: gonebatchabout
can take a bike for free from any of the bike                                           
stations around the city. Average price of        Another Tip: When you go to the Blue La-
a meal and a beer is about 150 kroner or          goon take heaps of conditioner for after.
14-15 GPB.                                        Oh, and it smells a bit like rotten eggs but    Toledo, Spain
                                                  you get used to it!                             This is a tip if you are in Madrid and want
Travel Bug: leivem                                                                                to see the best of Spain cheaply. Go to                          Travel Bug: bagzandpolly                        the tourist office in Plaza Mayor and get a
                                                          tourist travel pass. You can use the metro
                                                                                                  and buses as much as you want but more
Zurich, Switzerland                                                                               importantly you can go on a day trip to To-
Spent 2 days in summer in Switzerlands            Budva, Montenegro                               ledo. And Toledo is wonderful. We got the
largest city - Zurich. It is a lively city with   Budva is a great base for exploring the         bus there for a day and didn't even visit an
great shopping all along Bahnhofstrasse           coastal area of Montenegro. It is a resort      exhibition or Goya's house, just wandered
and Niederdorf. There are loads of bars           town, but I stayed at the Hippo Hostel,         the streets and went down to the river.
and resuraunts for wining and dining. The         which is a great place to crash with nice       Bring your own food for a picnic!
city is built around a lake which is surrond-     and helpful hosts and a 24hr convenience
ed by parks and seats so you can enjoy            store (aka "the bar") literally 10m across      Travel Bug: domandjess
the view. In the distance you can see the         the road with unlimited, cold, 45 euro cent,
mountains so it is a very pretty city.            500ml that's very convenient
The best thing about Zurich is you can hire                                                       Lake Bled, Slovenia
bikes for free to cruise around the city. Way     The old town is worth a quick look but          The best place to eat is the Restaurant
more fun than beating the feet. All you           take a short bus ride to Sveti Stefan and       Rikli which has provided me with the best
need to do is have your passport on you           laze on the beach or in the other direction     service and quality of food for the past 5
and leave 20francs as a deposit and off you       to visit Kotor. I highly recommend hiring a     years. The menu is varied and the food
go. We cycled up both sides of the lake and       car and spending a day driving around the       second to none.
then stoked up on laods of food for a pic-        death defying winding mountain roads.
nic. There are loads of spots to stop along       I say death defying because locals tend         Another cool things to do in Bled include
the lake to eat.                                  to speed around blind corners and push          white water rafting, quad biking, paraglid-
                                                  you right over to the edge of the sheer cliff   ing and horse riding
Travel Bug: lisaknowler                           off the side of the road...not for the faint                     hearted.                                        Travel Bug: jhawes
                                                  In the morning, drive to Centinje monas-
Reykjavik                                         tery, the summit of Mt Lovcen, the village of
I would recommend the Golden Circle Tour          Rijeka Crnojevica, Pavlova Strana and fin-
for your first day and then hire a car as it is   ish with dinner as the sun sets over a town
better value for money. For the Northern          on Lake Skadar. No visit is complete with

12   packed magazine
                                                                                                                        the online adventure travel guide
                 YOUR SMILE
                 IS OUR JOB.

                 2x IN VIENNA

                          packed magazine   13

HAve you ever wondered wHAt it would like to trAvel FROM EuROPE TO CAMBODIA IN A SOVIET-ERA CAR,
All in Aid of A Good cAuse? we Met Good fellows DAN AND CARLOS froM trAbAnt trek to find out…

  Can you tell us something about the            pitching a tent in the middle of the Gobi       What inspires you to travel?
  Trabant Trek project? What gave you the        desert is not a good idea. None of us were      Dan: A hideous fear of the mundanity and
  idea?                                          able to any sleep with numb toes and ears.      futility of modern urban existence.
  The project started when John Lovejoy                                                          Carlos: The idea of getting a stupid job
  and John Drury bought a Trabant in             What was the favourite place that you           and a mortgage and not being able to travel
  Hungary and drove it to Paris, in the          visited…and is there anywhere you               anymore.
  summer of 2006. John L. had been also          would love to visit again?
  working for the NGO Mith Samlanh in            Dan: I'd like to go back to Istanbul. We        And what’s the first thing you do when
  Cambodia and knew some people there.           were only there for a few days, but it blew     you get home?
  The whole group has been to Cambodia           me away. It must be the most cosmopolitan       Dan: Have a decent glass of red wine and
  at some point in time so we all know           city in the world, and it is dripping with      a roast dinner. Then out to celebrate and
  about the street children situation. John      history. I definitely want to go back.          remind myself why I was so desperate to
  L. decided to get together some friends        Carlos: Novosibirsk, Siberia. Not only the      get away.
  and start a trip from Zwickau (Germany) to     women are amazingly hot but also the            Carlos: Get a feast at my grandmas with
  Sihanoukville (Cambodia) in order to raise     people are the most hospitable among all        all the family together. Then go out with
  money and awareness to the problem of          the countries I have been to.                   my friends and start missing the countries
  street children, not only in Cambodia but                                                      and the life I have been living for the last 6
  also around the world, especially in all the   How did you guys get on together when           months.
  countries we were going to drive through.      you were travelling?
                                                 Dan: We all hate each other. No really, we      What’s next for the Trabant Trek team?
  Can you tell us why you decided to do          do hate each other. In that sort of situation   Dan: hopefully an official pardon from the
  this with a Trabant?                           you have no choice but to get on - you          government of Turkmenistan, but more
  When the Johns drove a Trabant through         know you've got to spend a lot of time          likely a year of depression slaving over a
  half of Europe they attracted a lot of         together so you need to get on with it. No      nine to five to raise the cash to get away
  attention from all sorts of people that were   disagreements ever got out of hand, and         from it all again.
  wandering what the hell were two Yanks         the big decisions were made very civilly.       Carlos: We parted separated ways with
  doing with a Trabant in those countries.       But there was tension at times.                 the hope to see each other again in the
  That sparked the idea of using the Trabant     Carlos: The relationships were cool             near future. Each has its own plans so it is
  as a means to raise more interest.             at the beginning but when different             difficult to say what is going to be. The 3
                                                 personalities get together for a long period    yanks have been talking about shipping the
  What were your most memorable                  of time, is expected to arise some sort of      2 Trabants left to the United States.
  moments along the way?                         disagreements. You do feel more attached
  Dan: Driving into Laos, the road through       and comfortable with some people than           And finally, where can we get more
  the mountains in the north from China. The     with others, that’s travelling.                 information and support your project?
  scenery was just stunning and so lush and                                                      Check out our website at www.
  green after all the bleak steppe of northern   OK, some general travel questions. If  We also have videos on
  Eurasia. It also felt like we were nearly      you could be anywhere in the world right        youtube, and a blog at blogspot…oh, and
  there, the home stretch, which was great.      now, where would you be?                        please check the donation page in our
  Carlos: Leaving Turkmenistan, after all the    Dan: I'm all travelled out. I'm looking         website and support the
  problems and delays we had, after dealing      forward to getting home and having a pint       kids in Cambodia with
  with police and KGB, it felt like crossing     with my mates down the pub. But if I had to     anything you can. Every
  the doors into paradise, which would be        I'd probably head down to Sihanoukville in      Euro, dollar, pound,
  Uzbekistan… not much of a paradise    wait, I am already here...        etc… counts.
  anymore.                                       Carlos: Definitely back home getting my
                                                 old friends together at the bar we always
  And the worst times?                           go, drinking “kalimotxo” and talking to
  Dan: Siberia was pretty cold. It was good      them about the trek. Witnessing their
  to drive through it, but I wouldn’t do it      mouths wide open while I explain the
  again.                                         wonders and the adventures we have
  Carlos: The coldest night in my life,          been through.

work eu
     tHe pAcked MAGAzine Guide to THE BEST CLASSES AND COuRSES                      to tAke on your trAvels

                                         Living and working in a country is one of the best ways to discover the
                                         different sides to a place that the traveller passing through may never
                                         see. There are many different working opportunities open to travellers
                                         in Europe, from picking grapes to windsurf instruction, so read on and
                                         see how you can turn your journey across Europe into a career move.

16   packed magazine
                        photos: “Work your way across Europe: From bartending in the big city, to fruit picking in the countryside.”

 On the Farm:
 Seasonal Work
                                                                                                             Beer and Beds:
                                                                                                             Hospitality and
 If you want to experience Europe beyond            More Information:                                        Tourism
 the big cities, then seasonal farm work
 might be a good option. The most popu-             Grape Picking in France:                                 The possibilities for work in the hospitality
 lar seasonal work for travellers is grape          >                                    and tourism sector are almost endless.
 picking in France and in certain parts of                                                                   You could score a job as chalet staff in
 Germany, which takes place during the              Seasonal Work in Denmark:                                an Alpine ski resort, work at a beach bar
 harvest season of August to October.               >                                    or nightclub in Ibiza, or find yourself wel-
 In June and July the place to head for                                                                      coming fellow travellers at hostel recep-
 is Denmark, where many farms take on               World Wide Opportunities on                              tion desks in one of Europe’s great cities.
 jordbaerplukkers (Strawberry pickers), or          Organic Farms: >                           Another option are the package compa-
 else you could check out the extensive                                                                      nies that sell the sun and sand holidays
 WWOOFING network. This is not a job                                                                         to the Costa del Sol, the Balearics or the
 exactly, rather the chance to volunteer                                                                     Greek Islands. They are often on the look
 to work on organic farms or other con-                                                                      out for people to work a variety of posi-
 servation projects in exchange for room                                                                     tions, such as reps, entertainers, babysit-
 and board. The WWOOFING network is                                                                          ters and sports instructors. Be aware that
 global, with options in Europe including                                                                    for certain jobs within the hospitality sec-
 Austria, Czech Republic, Estonia, Italy,                                                                    tor a certain level of language ability may
 Slovenia and Switzerland amongst many                                                                       be required.
                                                                                                                                       packed magazine   17
learn the lingo
For some jobs in Europe you may be able
to get by in English with a smattering of
local phrases, but employment opportuni-
ties, and the experience itself, will be all
the more richer if you bring some linguistic
skills to the table. Why not begin your trip
with a language course, which will not only
give you more chance of eventually finding
a job, but will also give you the opportunity
to explore the city and country in which you
want to live and work, before you commit to
an employer.

There are literally thousands of options
when it comes to learning languages in
Europe, from weekend introductions to
yearlong immersion programmes. What you
choose will depend on what you want to
get out of it, and how far your budget can
                                                More Information:                            Think of the
STA Travel > have
courses in 11 languages in 30 different         Ski Resort Jobs:                             Children:
countries, including Spanish, French, Por-      >
tuguese, Russian and German. Prices start                                                    Summer Camps
from around €100 per week.                      Summer Resort Jobs:
                                                >                       and Au Pair Work
Another useful resources is Languages
Abroad >                For hostel jobs and other employment         If you like children, then work on a sum-
which offers courses in 22 European coun-       opportunities, check out some of the         mer camp or as an Au Pair can be one of
tries, including an immersion programme         travellers forums, such as,    the most rewarding things you could do
where you live and learn with your teacher.     or the and        as part of an overseas working experi-
                                                message boards.                              ence. Both summer camp and Au Pair
                                                                                             work will usually include accommoda-
                                                                                             tion and meals as part of the package,
                                                                                             as well as a certain amount of spending
                                                                                             money. Summer Camps can be great, as
                                                In the Classroom:                            not only will you have interaction with the
                                                                                             kids, but also your fellow camp counsel-
                                                Teaching English                             lors, whilst working as an Au Pair can
                                                                                             give you a unique insight into family life
                                                The popularity of English as a second        of the country in which you are living.
                                                language all over the world not only         Make sure that you carefully explore all
                                                makes it easy for native speakers to trav-   the conditions and requirements involved
                                                el, but also provides working opportuni-     before taking any position…you might be
                                                ties for those who can help others learn     hired to look after the children, but you
                                                the lingo. Teaching English as a Foreign     don’t want to end up cleaning up after
                                                Language (TEFL) is a big business, and       mum and dad as well!
                                                most European cities have a number of
                                                language schools that are always on the      Summer Camps:
                                                lookout for new teachers. Be aware that      Some companies that run summer
                                                many will not employ you without some        camps around Europe and are often
                                                form of TEFL qualification, which you        looking for employees include
                                                can either do at home, or in programmes      > and
                                                around the world. Do some research into      >
                                                the different qualifications on offer, and
                                                make sure that any course you take has a     Au Pair Work:
                                                good reputation, and will be recognised      The >
                                                by potential employers.                      website has an extensive guide to dif-
                                                                                             ferent opportunities, including organisa-
                                                More Information:                            tions in many different countries that can
                                                                                             help you find a placement.
                                                TEFL courses:

                                                TEFL jobs and other information:

       18   packed magazine
Other Options and
More Information                                                                              A word of Advice –
If none of the above appeals to you, how      For information on sailing jobs and other
about exploring some of the other options:    jobs in the travel sector, as well as an
Experienced sailors might look for work       excellent overview of the whole working         IMPORTANT: Please bear in mind that all the
on yachts sailing from Spain, Croatia or      abroad situation, check out > www.tran-         information contained in this article is for ad-
the Greek Islands. Writers and Photogra-, which has loads of           vice only, and any visa or legal requirements
phers could attempt to turn their travels     interesting and useful information. The         you may need to meet should be checked
into money by selling their work to maga-     blog at has ex-             carefully, likewise all websites listed and
zines and websites (although be warned,       cellent tips as well as job leads for aspir-    jobs offered. The article is supposed to
this is a very competitive market). Or you    ing travel writers, whilst for an interesting   inspire and provide a starting point for work-
could look for work with one of the many      country-by-country guide to working in          ing in Europe, and it is vitally important that
tourism related businesses out there, as      Europe, check out the downloadable pdf          you do your own research before commit-
walking tour guides, cruise ship entertain-   “Travel Work Europe” by         ting to anything.
ers, or sports instructors.                   at >

                                                                                              Visas and Red Tape
                                                                                              If you are a European Union citizen, and
                                                                                              want to work in another EU country, then
                                                                                              the good news is that you can legally work
                                                                                              across the Union with the same rights (and
                                                                                              responsibilities) as the citizens of those

                                                                                              For non-EU citizens the situation is more
                                                                                              difficult, although depending on where you
                                                                                              come from, and where you want to go, there
                                                                                              are options available to you. Some countries,
                                                                                              such as Ireland, the United Kingdom, Ger-
                                                                                              many, the Netherlands, Denmark, Finland,
                                                                                              Sweden, Norway amongst others, have
                                                                                              reciprocal working holiday visa arrange-
                                                                                              ments with other countries, most commonly
                                                                                              Australia, New Zealand and Canada. Check
                                                                                              with the embassy in your own country to see
                                                                                              if this option is open to you.

                                                                                              The website has a useful
                                                                                              guide to working holiday visas and other
                                                                                              requirements in different European countries
                                                                                              for Americans, Canadians, Australians, New
                                                                                              Zealanders and South Africans, which you
                                                                                              can find at >
                                                                                                               packed magazine    19
                                                                                                                                                                  no booking     fee online!

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sporting                                                                                                           photo: The Santiago Bernabeu, home of Real Madrid

in tHe first of our NEW ICoNS SErIES, we look At five of tHe fINEST SPorTING vENuES IN EuroPE.

                                           In the first of a new Icons series, packed explores some of
                                           the greatest sporting venues Europe has to offer, including
                                           the home of football, the toughest climb in cycling, and the
                                           most glamorous race track of them all.

                                                                                            packed magazine   21
                       Wembley Stadium                                           Weekend itself in late May, race day tickets start at
                       In 1996 England hosted the European Football              around €100. >
                       Championships under the slogan “Football’s Com-

                                                                                                                                                       Monaco on Grand Prix Weekend
                       ing Home”, and there is no better icon for the            Honourable Mention: If you’ve got a car or motor-
                       home of the world’s favourite sport than Wembley          bike then the Nürburgring in Germany is a most as
                       Stadium. Originally built in 1923 it hosts England’s      you can rock up, pay entry, and drive the famous
                       international football matches, as well as the final of   course yourself. You can get more information on
                       football’s oldest competition, the FA Cup. In 2007        the website at >
                       the new Wembley Stadium was opened, built on
                       top of the old structure, with a new landmark to          Berlin's Olympiastadion
                       replace the famous twin towers, a soaring arch de-        It may become known as the venue where Zinedine
                       signed by Norman Foster. If you can’t be in London        Zidane famously lost, and then used, his head dur-
                       for a game you can take a tour of the stadium, with       ing the final moments of the 2006 World Cup Final,

                                                                                                                                         photos (from top to bottom): the Olympiastadion Berlin / Lance Armstrong on the Alpe d’Huez /
                       the overriding sense of underachievement subject          but the iconic status of this stadium in the western
                       to availability. >                 suburbs of Berlin dates back seventy years before,
                                                                                 to 1936 and the Olympic Games hosted in Nazi
                       Honourable Mention: Other stadiums oozing with a          Germany. What was designed as a showcase for
                       sense of footballing history in Britain include Ibrox     the National Socialist system, and immortalised in
                       and Celtic Park in Glasgow, Anfield in Liverpool,         the films of Leni Riefenstahl, became legendary for
                       and Old Trafford in Manchester, all of which offer        unintended reasons. The most memorable achieve-
                       tours and museums dedicated to the history and            ment of the games was that of Jesse Owens, a
                       achievements of their respective clubs.                   black American athlete whose four gold medals
                                                                                 provided a neat response to Nazi ideas of racial
                       Monte Carlo                                               superiority. The Olympic complex, many of which
                       Motor racing has always been a glamorous sport,           still dates back to the 1930s, is an awesome sight,
                       and there is no more glamorous race on the For-           whilst the renovations of the stadium itself are well
                       mula One calendar than the Monaco Grand Prix.             worth checking out on a tour, or by watching a
                       The first race was held way back in 1929, and it is       match of the local team Hertha BSC.
                       still the race drivers want to win during their ca-       >
                       reer. What makes it unique is that it is one of the
                       few tracks that still run on what are normally city       Honourable Mention: Europe has hosted the
                       streets, winding its way through the palaces, mil-        Olympics a number of times, and other surviving
                       lionaires’ apartments and casinos of Monte Carlo          Olympic Stadiums that are well worth a visit include
                       and La Condamine. Because of this, it is possible         Munich, Moscow, Rome, and Barcelona.
                       to visit the circuit for free, just by walking around
                       the Principality, including the famous harbour, ca-
                       sino corner and the tunnel, although spending any         Alpe d'Huez
                       time in Monaco will be heavy on the wallet. If you        Despite its problems in recent years, the Tour de
                       want to see the action during the Grand Prix              France remains one of the iconic sporting events

22   packed magazine

                                                                                        in Europe. Although by nature the Tour cov-       some have even played for both, and the
                                                                                        ers all parts of the country, it is perhaps the   stadiums that they have graced are icons
                                                                                        mountains where its soul lies, and the most       in their own right. In Madrid, the Bernabéu
                                                                                        famous of all climbs is that of Alpe d’Huez.      has seen unprecedented success, with
                                                                                        Almost every year the tour makes the ardu-        Real winning more European Cups than any
                                                                                        ous journey to the top of Alpe d’Huez, and        other team. In Barcelona they have also cel-
                                                                                        thousands of amateur cyclists follow in the       ebrated many triumphs, but in some ways
                                                                                        cycle path of their heroes as they attempt        the magic of the Camp Nou lies in how it
                                                                                        the fourteen-kilometre climb themselves.          has become a repository for the feelings of
                                                                                        It starts at the town of Le Bourg d’Oisans,       a local community, expressed best in FC
                                                                                        and although very few will ever get near the      Barcelona’s motto, “More Than a Club.”
                                                                                        thirty-seven minute record it remains an im-
                                                                                        pressive achievement for those who make
                                                                                                                                          Both stadiums have excellent museums and
                                                                                                                                          tours; check out >
                                                                                                                                                                                               where it all began...
                                                                                        it. For the less adventurous, watching this       and > for more                   Of course, these five venues are
photos: Two Thousand Years of Stadium Design – Wembley and the Colosseum / Pula arena

                                                                                        stage during the Tour is one of the great free    information.                                         iconic for their roles in modern
                                                                                        spectator events anywhere in the world, as                                                             sports, but what about the stadiums
                                                                                        thousands line the roadside to cheer the          Honourable Mention: There are many great             that entertained people way back in
                                                                                        riders on. This year the stage to Alpe d’Huez     football stadiums around Europe, and more            the ancient world. The most famous,
                                                                                        takes place on the 23rd July.                     often than not it is the fans of these teams,        and arguably the inspiration for all
                                                                                        >                                   as much as architecture, that makes them             stadium design, is the Colosseum in
                                                                                                                                          great. There’s no way we can list them all,          Rome. Other surviving Roman are-
                                                                                        Honourable Mention: Other famous stages           but if you get a chance to see a game at the         nas include Verona in Italy, Pula in
                                                                                        in the mountains include the Col du Tourma-       San Siro in Milan, the Velodrome in Mar-             Croatia, and Arkles in France.
                                                                                        let, Mont Venout and the Hautacam, whilst         seille, or the Westfalenstadion in Dortmund,
                                                                                                                                                                                               The other giant of the Ancient world
                                                                                        every year the tour reaches its conclusion        you won’t be disappointed.
                                                                                                                                                                                               is Greece, and there you can visit
                                                                                        on the Champs-Élysées in Paris.                                                                        what is perhaps the granddaddy of
                                                                                        The most famous hors-catégorie peaks in-                                                               all sporting venues, Olympia, where
                                                                                        clude the Col du Tourmalet, Mont Ventoux,                                                              the ancient games were held. In
                                                                                        Col du Galibier, the climb to the ski resort of                                                        Athens you can also check out the
                                                                                        Hautacam, and Alpe d'Huez.                                                                             restored Panathinaiko Stadium that
                                                                                                                                                                                               was excavated and restored first of
                                                                                                                                                                                               all for the inaugural modern Olym-
                                                                                        The Camp Nou and the Bernabéu                                                                          pics in 1896, and then again in time
                                                                                        Yes, we bottled out of making the choice.                                                              for 2004 Games when the Olympic
                                                                                        For the final of our five iconic sporting ven-                                                         flame once more returned to its
                                                                                                                                                                                               spiritual home.
                                                                                        ues we return to football, but this time to
                                                                                        Spain, and the home grounds of two of Eu-
                                                                                        rope’s most famous clubs. Some of the fin-
                                                                                        est footballers the world has ever seen have
                                                                                        played for Real Madrid and Barcelona, and                                    your opinion
                                                                                                                                                                     Dispute our choices? Think we’ve gone and got it completely
                                                                                                                                                                     wrong? Drop us a line at and tell
                                                                                                                                                                     us your iconic European sporting venues.

                             As die-hard native New Yorker, I moved              - were built. The neighborhood thrived as an
                             to Paris lock, stock, and barrel in 2005,           enclave for royalty and the wealthy until 1682,
                             making a long time dream of living in my            after King Louis XIV moved to Versailles.
                             favorite city finally happen. I was lucky en-
                             ough to find the perfect apartment within           After that, the fickle rich and up and moved
                             10 days, in the Marais district. In the eight       to St. Germain des Pres and Versailles to be
                             years before I moved here, I stayed with            closer to the king. By the 1800’s, the area went
                             friends who lived in the area and got to            from the city’s most affluent, to the poorest,
                             know it fairly well. The Marais was a grit-         most densely populated, becoming primarily
                             ty, almost no mans land neighborhood for            a Jewish and working class district. The mag-
                             the longest time, until about 30 years ago          nificent mansions were abandoned or turned
                             when the controversial Pompidou Center              into factories and many left to ruin. In 1925,
                             was built.                                          architect Le Corbusier, made a radical city plan
                                                                                 to raze the buildings of the Marais and replace
                             Slowly the working class and mostly poor            them with 800 ft. skyscrapers. By the early
                             neighborhood became a destination,                  1960’s the area had become so rundown that
                             thanks to the crowds drawn to the Pompi-            Andre Malraux, statesman, author and the first
                             dou, and a proliferation of cafés, home and         minister of culture under President Charles de
                             clothing boutiques, art galleries, bars, and        Gaulle, stepped in. Malraux claimed that these
                             restaurants in the 80’s & 90’s transformed          buildings were the core of French history and
                             it into the one of the trendiest and hippest        needed to be maintained and refurbished.
                             neighborhoods in Paris.                             Thanks to Malraux, the buildings were painstak-
                                                                                 ingly restored to their original splendor. Many
                             Marais History                                      of them were bought by the city and made into
                                                                                 government offices & museums or by private
                             Once I moved, I began to discover its fascinat-     institutions.
                             ing history. The Marais, which literally means
                             marshland, is one of the oldest areas in Paris.     Today, one can roam through the Marais and
                             Starting in the 600’s, religious monks, because     admire some supreme examples of these build-
                             of the fertile soil, planted vegetable gardens      ings including the hotel de Beauvais, built in
                             on small plots of land. In the 1500’s, the nobles   1655, hotel de Sens, one of the few medieval
                             and the aristocracy were looking for a place        castles in Paris, and the stately Hotel Soubise.
                             to build their private mansions and chose the
                             Marais because it had not yet been developed.       Something for Nothing
                             In the next 200 years, over 120 of these magnif-
                             icent and opulent mansions- hotel particuliers      The Marais is chock full of cultural institutions

24   packed magazine

& small museums, with free admission          There is free WiFi, so you can check
and parks and gardens. For a fascinat-        your emails while lazing on a park bench
ing look at the history of Paris, visit the   under the shade. On the weekends, you
Carnavalet museum, the former palace          can listen to the melodic sounds of either
of Madame Sevigne. In the mid-1600’s,         a great jazz band or a 12 piece classical
Sevigne was the one of the most cel-          orchestra that play on either side of the
ebrated and revered social hostesses’ of      square, usually starting in the afternoon.
her day and was famous for over 1,000         After you’ve had your fill of food and
letters she wrote, recording the history      music, experience the world of Victor
and gossip of her days. Don’t miss the        Hugo, author of the classic book Les
lush, formal gardens in a peaceful court-     Miserables, in his former home that is
yard inside the museum.                       now a museum.

The Swedish Cultural Center, a former         The magical Marais has it all, and in fact
hotel particulier, is now a small gallery     many people who stay there fall in love
that houses quirky and modern exhibits        with it and hardly ever see the rest of
of Swedish artists and designers. A café      the city.
with Swedish delicacies, like smorgbord
sandwiches and coffee cake, has tables        - RICHARD NAHEM.
in the lovely cobblestone courtyard.
Don’t miss the chance to enjoy a small
gem of museum, the Cognacq Jay, which
was a department store heir’s home in
the late 1800’s, and a showplace of 18th
century art treasures.
                                                                Gay paris
Stroll over to the Place des Vosges, the
                                                                The Marais is the premiere gay and lesbian area of the city. Rue St.
city’s oldest and prettiest square, dotted                      Croix is the unofficial/official gay street with gay owned boutiques
with art and sculpture galleries, cafes                         and an excellent, well-stocked bookstore. Rue des Archives and rue
and restaurants. Grab a tasty sandwich                          Vieille du Temple have the most popular bars and cafes including Bar
to go for under 5 euros and a yummali-                          Cox, Open Café, Amnesia, Le Central, and Le Feeling. Feel free to
cious macaron for dessert at the best                           hold hands or be affectionate with your partner or lover, as the Pari-
bakery in Paris, Gerard Mulot, and have                         sians are gay tolerant.
a pleasant lunch in the lush, beautiful
Louis XIII park surrounded by fountains
and rows of sculpted square trees.

                                                                                                             packed magazine   25
cheap eats
Trendy restaurants and hip cafes are the order of
business but there are some food bargains. Rue de
Rosiers, the last remaining bastion of the Jewish
quarter, is lined with Jewish style bakeries & delis
and falafel stands. All the falafel stands/restau-
rants fight over who is the best, even though they
pretty much are the same, and 5 euros buys you a
non-Burger King whopper of a delicious, overstuffed
sandwich. Great for vegetarians in a city of carni-

Even though the name is an obvious cliché, Creperie
Suzette serves some of the best savory and sweet
crepes in the city. Order the Barbette with fresh
cream, potatoes, bacon, and egg and wash it down
with a glass of apple cider.

Les Philosophes Café is the scene and be seen place,
with a versatile menu of French favorites. A filling
homemade country pate sandwich on a baguette with a
glass of wine is a best buy at under 10 euros.
Hipsters unite at the uber-
popular dive bar & café La                                 Carnavalet Museum 23 rue de Sevigne, 3d arr.
Perle, with surprisingly good,                             Swedish Cultural Center 11 rue Payenne, 3d arr.
inexpensive food. Open day                                 Musee Cognacq Jay 8 rue Elzevir, 3 arr.
and night, the red-wine drink-                             Gerard Mulot Boulangerie 6 rue de pas de la Mule, 4th arr.
ing & Gitanes smoking 20                                   Victor Hugo Museum 6 place des Vosges, 4 arr.
something crowd usually spills                             Creperie Suzette 24 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 3d arr.
over into the street.                                      Les Philosophes Café 28 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th arr.
                                                           La Perle 78 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3d arr.
                                                           6 rue de Fourcy, 11 rue du Fauconnier, 12 rue des Barres, 4th arr.

     Richard Nahem is a Paris expert, and writes an
     insiders blog
     He leads private walking tours - - based on
     places he writes about on his blog, showing visi-
     tors the Paris they usually don't see on their own.
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         tea in tu

                             The tinkling of tiny metal spoons stirring         I step into the streets of Sultanahmet and am
                             sugar cubes into strong, black tea punc-           greeted by blaring car horns, the smell of burn-
                             tuates the conversation of Turkish men. It         ing rubber on hot asphalt and vendors hawking
                             will also provide the soundtrack to my jour-       their wares. This is the old part of the city where
                             ney through Istanbul and down the Turkish          tourists flock to marvel at the 2000-year-old
                             coast.                                             Hagia Sophia and the minarets of the Blue
                                                                                Mosque and to explore the twisting avenues of
                             As I explore awe-inspiring ruins, wander           the Grand Bazaar.
                             through rug markets and bask on pic-
                             turesque beaches not a day passes without          I get out my map and immediately a shop-
                             at least one cup of tea. In Turkey where 99        keeper comes to my aid. In my travels through
                             per cent of the population is Muslim, tea          Turkey all I have to do is consult my map and
                             substitutes for alcohol, but it is also a way      at least one friendly man will walk over and
                             of life. Despite a hot Mediterranean climate       offer his help. Helpful directions are usually ac-
                             men gather at all hours of the day in out-         companied by a request to drink tea, buy a rug,
                             door cafes to socialize over delicately tiny       “go to disco” or some combination of the three.
                             cups of chai—the Turkish word for tea.             This shopkeeper is no exception.

                             I discover Turkish tea on my first day in          “You like tea? Come in, come in,” he beckons
                             Istanbul. With a population of 16 million,         after pointing me in the right direction.
                             Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey and
                             the biggest city I have ever been in. I am         I deny a chorus of tea-drinking requests as I lug
                             alone, it is hot, few people speak English         my backpack uphill towards my hostel.
                             and I haven’t slept since leaving the com-
                             fort of my London hostel at 2 a.m. the day         A Cultural Experience
                                                                                Later that evening, I set out to explore the
                             First Impressions                                  narrow cobbled streets, which are lined with
                                                                                restaurants and rug shops. One shopkeeper is
                             I make it from the airport onto the ferry and      more persistent than the rest.
                             travel across the Bosphorus Straight, which
                             divides the Asian and European sides of Turkey.    “No, no,” he replies when I refuse his request
                             On the ferry a bearded man walks between the       to drink tea. “This is Turkey, we drink tea. You
                             plastic chairs balancing tiny glass cups of tea    don’t have to buy a rug, we have cultural expe-
                             on a tray. The trip is less than 20 minutes, but   rience.”
                             everyone drinks tea. I just watch.

28   packed magazine

 I succumb, entering the dimly-lit shop.      the translation has something to do with      the port city of Çanakkale. By mid-June
 We wander through three floors of car-       charity, but gives up. Like many things       the city will be swarming with tourists
 pets, woven in rainbows of reds, blues       on my journey through Turkey, there are       passing through to see Gallipoli, the
 and golds. The shopkeeper explains how       no words to explain and I am content to       famous WWI battle site, and what are
 the designs on each carpet tell a story      observe. So we sip our tea and watch the      thought to be the ruins of Troy. But it’s
 about the person who wove it.                swooping seagulls.                            early May, the hostel is almost empty
                                                                                            and I feel like the only tourist. I join a
 We finish the cultural lesson by climbing    Through my Turkish travels the tea is al-     few other backpackers in a café on
 to the top floor balcony. Surrounded by      ways the same: served black and strong        the seawall for the evening. We smoke
 piles of rolled-up rugs, we drink tea and    out of tiny glass cups on tiny glass sau-     apple-flavoured tobacco from a giant
 gaze out at the six spiraling minarets of    cers. No milk, no lemon, but always two       water-pipe, drink tea and swap tales of
 the Blue Mosque. As dusk settles the call    sugar cubes perched on the side of the        adventure. In the morning we will imagine
 to prayer rings out. The haunting Arabic     saucer. There are no handles, but if the      ourselves inside a Greek legend as we
 chant calling Muslims to prayer is played    glass is too hot you pick it up by the sau-   tour the ruins of Troy.
 over mosque speakers five times each         cer, I am told.
 day—at dawn, at noon, in the afternoon,                                                    My next stop is Selçuk, best-known for
 in the evening and after the sun goes        After dinner I meet up with a Canadian        the nearby Roman ruins of Ephesus.
 down.                                        friend and we spend the next four days
                                              exploring Istanbul in awe. In our adven-      I opt-out of the 40 Lira (just over 20 Euro)
 The next day I will remove my shoes,         tures we are scrubbed down by half-           Ephesus tour package and get up early
 cover my hair with a scarf and enter the     naked Turkish women in the Çember-            to take a dolmus, which is basically a
 Blue Mosque, but this evening I watch        laitas Hamam—a 16th century bath; we          mini-van with no air conditioning and a
 and listen from afar.                        stumble upon a street of nine maniquine       bunch of seats crammed in. (optional
                                              shops; we watch in horror as a man            cut) This particular bus is filled with
 Hundreds of seagulls swoop between           scoops leeches out of a vat with his bare     kids who look about 13 or 14. There is a
 the minarets. I am told there is a logi-     hand and plops them into jars for dozens      single seat left beside one of the boys. I
 cal explanation: the birds are drawn to      of eager customers. We eat spicy kebap        know informal Turkish bus rules say I’m
 the bright lights used to illuminate the     and rice, pastries dripping with honey        not supposed to sit next to a man unless
 mosque, but there is something ethereal      and rosewater-infused Turkish delight.        he is my family member or husband, but
 in the white points floating over the blue   We wash it all down with tea.                 I’ve already paid. I gesture to the seat.
 dome in the dark night sky.                  nate the ruinous medina.                      The other kids erupt into giggles. The
                                                                                            boy who I propose to sit next to looks
 Below the birds, there is a message          Out from Istanbul                             embarrassed and I’m glad I don’t speak
 spelled out in lights on a massive ban-                                                    Turkish.
 ner. I ask what the Arabic script means      I could explore Istanbul for months, but I
 and my new friend tries to explain that      bid farewell to my friend and move on to      I am rewarded for my decision to opt-out

                                                                                                                  packed magazine   29
                                                                                                Emily Senger is a Canadian who
                                                                                                trekked through Turkey and
                                                                                                the Balkans solo last summer.
                                                                                                She currently lives in Ottawa,
                                                                                                Ontario where she is completing
                                                                                                graduate studies in journalism and
                                                                                                dreaming of her next adventure.

of the package tour. Ephesus is on a hill       with water. Drink very slow and with
and my bus stops at the lower gates while       food.”
all the other tourist busses stop at the top.
I am transported back in time as I explore      My backgammon partner stifles a chuck-
rows of sarcophagi and the amphitheatre         le. He doesn’t get a warning.
without the throngs of other tourists. The
sun blazes down and I am alone except for       My next destination is the resort town of
the bees buzzing around the crimson pop-        Bodrum. There is more money here than
pies and a team of archeologists who are        anywhere else in my Turkish travels and
restoring the theatre steps.                    sailboats from around the world are lined
                                                by the hundreds. I’m tired of exploring
As I walk into the library it gets crowded,     ruins and spend my last two glorious

                                                                                                                                     photos Stockholm riviera in winter
but thousands of tourists come here for a       days in Turkey eating fresh fruit from the
reason. It is impossible not to be awestruck    market, basking in the sun and swimming
by the marble streets of this ancient city.     in the ocean.

                                                As I board the ferry to head to the Greek
                                                islands I slowly sip my final Turkish tea as
Drink Slow, With Food                           the shoreline disappears behind me. In
                                                the days to come I will miss this ritual, but
In the evening I make friends with another      I am in love with Turkey and I take solace
Canadian and we sit at a street-side café       in the fact that this won’t be my last cup
drinking tea, eating sunflower seeds and        of Turkish tea.
playing backgammon. I am the only woman
in the café, an experience I am getting         - EMILY SENGER.
used to. Turkish cafes are a man’s domain.
It’s not that women aren’t allowed in them,
they just don’t go. Since I’m with a man I
throw caution to the wind and after loos-
ing two games straight and I suggest we
switch from tea to raki—a potent anise-
seed liqueur made in Turkey.

My glass comes with a warning.
“Very strong,” says the waiter. “You mix

   30   packed magazine

Copenhagen                I’ll be the first to admit I’m a bit of an amusement park       seafaring history, passengers board tiny Viking ships in

                                                                                                                                                         photos: Thrills but hopefully no spills at the Tivoli Gardens
                          enthusiast. I’ve trekked far and wide in search of the          lieu of horses.
                          world’s best-known thrill rides with the tallest drops, the     An afternoon at Tivoli goes fast – wait around for three or
                          fastest speeds and the steepest loops. So when I was            four attractions, and it’s suddenly dinnertime. Stopping
                          recently offered the opportunity to visit Copenhagen, I         only to grab a pint of Carlsberg and a herring smorrebrod
                          jumped at the chance, dreaming not of Viking legends or         – a traditional open-faced sandwich – we returned to
                          Hans Christian Andersen but of the Tivoli Gardens, the          the park at dusk to find it transformed into a shimmer-
                          Danish capital’s fabled fun park, built in 1843.                ing wonderland, with over 100,000 twinkling lights. We
                                                                                          joined hand-holding couples and awestruck children to
                          Upon arrival, I realized I’d made a grievous error. To call     partake in the park’s nightly summer tradition: a musical
                          the Tivoli Gardens an amusement park is a tremendous            fountain show with laser beams and fireworks.
                          disservice. Yes, the park offers its share of thrills and
                          spills, but it’s also one of Copenhagen’s most iconic lo-       It was then I realized how much I’d underestimated the
                          cales, offering leisure in the grand – yet fun-loving – style   many charms of the Danish capital and Tivoli Gardens as
                          of the Danes. In place of a crowded midway, the park            well. The Danes are well known for working hard, but af-
                          features landscaped gardens with Chinese pagodas                ter a day in their classic 19th-century pleasureland, you’ll
                          and sailing ships. Though junk food is plentiful, elegant       be certain they play hard, too.
                          eateries also entice visitors. Outdoor rock concerts are
                          commonplace, yet the most popular live acts are the             - CURTIS WONG.
                          pantomimes, a staple since 1874. And while tourists are
                          abundant, you might be astonished to find the park filled
                          with locals on a summer evening.                                  don’t Miss
                                                                                            The Little Mermaid – for some, she’s the fairytale her-
                          Of course, I came seeking white-knuckle excitement,
                                                                                            oine from fathoms below; for others, an overexposed
                          and that’s exactly what I got, in the form of more than
                                                                                            female on a rock. But Denmark’s leading lady, based
                          a dozen thrill rides. First up was the Demon, a state-of-         on the H.C. Andersen character and erected in 1913,
                          the-art “floorless” roller coaster. Once we were seated           simply demands that you do not ignore her.
                          and strapped in, the boarding platform dropped out from
                                                                                            Christiania – This partially self-governing neighbor-
                          below our train, leaving our feet dangling freely above           hood has long been a haven for the city’s hippies and
                          the track as we scaled drops, inversions and a mind-              squatters. While not as free loving as it once was, the
                          spinning corkscrew. Wanting proof of your adrenaline?             district is a lively place where anything can – and often
                          No problem – a camera snaps photos of riders in various           does – happen. Just use your imagination.
                          stages of glee, for sale at the ride’s end.                       vor frelsers Kirke – Not for the faint-of-heart, the
                                                                                            climb up the outdoor spiral staircase of this church’s
                          Other exhilarating moments lay ahead, in the form of Det          corkscrew spire offers unparalleled city views. If you
                          Gyldne Tarn, where we blasted off to a dizzying heights           look closely, you might even see Sweden across the
                          above the city before experiencing weightlessness, as             way!
                          well as a spin on the Himmelskibet, where chains and a            Nyhavn – Though crowded with tourists, this colorful
                          seemingly thin bench separated us from being catapulted           waterfront area, once the home of H.C. Andersen, is
                          into the abyss. The 1914 roller coaster Rutsjebanen               postcard-perfect Copenhagen.
                          packed a surprising punch. And don’t forget to take in            NY Carlsberg Glyptotek – founded by the Carlsberg
                          the merry-go-round where, in reference to the nation’s            Brewery, this fine museum is known for housing the
                                                                                            largest collection of paintings, sculptures and artifacts
   32   packed magazine                                                                     in northern Europe. The Degas bronzes – one of only
                                                                                            three complete sets in the world – are reason enough
                                                                                            to visit.

photos : The beauty of the Old Town is just one side of Tallinn’s character

                                                                              One of the new kids on the global block, the Republic
                                                                              of Estonia is probably best known for winning the 2001
                                                                              Eurovision Song Contest with their mediocre party hit
                                                                              ‘Everybody’. Hosting duties for the following year’s cer-     don’t Miss
                                                                              emony were bestowed upon the Baltic nation, a fitting
                                                                              tribute to its first notable dalliance on the world stage.
                                                                                                                                            St Olaf’s Church – climb the spire for the best
                                                                              Love it or hate it, Eurovision chic permeates the clubs
                                                                                                                                            views of Tallinn’s stunning Old Town and marvel
                                                                              and pubs of Estonia’s capital Tallinn and is in many ways
                                                                                                                                            at its post-1991 transformation from KGB radio
                                                                              a metaphor for the city’s cultural bent.                      tower and surveillance centre to tourist attrac-
                                                                              Estonia’s apparent obsession with mid-90s dance music
                                                                              is symptomatic of the 17-year old republic’s mad scram-       Russian Market – keen to get your mitts on some
                                                                              ble to catch up with the consumption levels enjoyed by        Eastern Bloc fashions, military memorabilia or
                                                                              their Western neighbours. In an incredibly short period of    perhaps a crate of rusty junk hawked by an un-
                                                                              time, its folkloric roots and Soviet past have been infused   shaven old man? There’s something for everyone,
                                                                              with Starbucks, Britney and EasyJet.                          including fresh food, fur coats and German litera-
                                                                              This historical hybrid is most evident in Tallinn; its im-
                                                                                                                                            Estonian pancakes – a national specialty, these
                                                                              pressive Old Town is hampered by mushrooming global
                                                                                                                                            thick doughy pancakes come in a variety of meat-
                                                                              chains competing for attention amongst the fascinating
                                                                                                                                            filled savoury or sugar-laden incarnations.
                                                                              scars of Russian and German occupation. Most visitors
                                                                              get stuck in the Old Town like ants in honey. Its coiled      Kadriog Park and the Baltic coastline – this
                                                                              cobbled alleyways boast some of Europe’s best pre-            colourful deciduous expanse is popular with
                                                                              served historical architecture, thanks to the minimal war     dog-walkers and home to Kadriog Palace, which
                                                                              damage and piecemeal redevelopment at the hands of            houses the Museum of Foreign Art. Emerge from
                                                                              the economically stagnant Soviet Union.                       its northern edge and you’ll find yourself on the
                                                                                                                                            white sands of Tallinn Bay, where you can follow
                                                                              Almost half of Tallinn’s population are Russian and a         the coastline all the way up to Pirita beach.
                                                                              popular tourist attraction is the Russian market where
                                                                              you can pick up faded Soviet political posters, military      Mid-90s clubbing – Mash it up with Estonia’s yoof
                                                                                                                                            to R&B remixes and techno ‘classics’ long-since
                                                                              kitsch, or just a nice pair of polyester slippers and some
                                                                                                                                            abandoned in the recesses of your mind. Top
                                                                              Taiwanese-made electrical goods.
                                                                                                                                            spots include Angel, Tallinn’s best gay club, and
                                                                              Throw in a generous serving of Anglo backpackers and,         multi-level dance emporium Club Hollywood,
                                                                              in summer, liberal lashings of bucks and hens who fly         where Wednesday is Ladies’ Night (women get in
                                                                              direct to the Baltic capitals via carbon criminals Ryan Air   free but everyone can ogle the semi-naked, oiled
                                                                              and EasyJet. A plethora of cheesy dance clubs and Irish       up Backstreet Boys dancers).
                                                                              pubs cater to the drunken masses, although it’s still pos-
                                                                              sible to find authentic bars where real Estonians go to
                                                                              slurp the local turps.

                                                                              - BRIANNA SUMMERS.

                                                                                                                                                                    packed magazine   33

Dubrovnik                 Our first night in Dubrovnik, and my friends and I        by any visual thing, by any scene, as I did by the
                          set out to explore: enchanting as this coastal gem        moon’s orb shining in a broad sweep across that
                          is by day, it only finds its fulfillment when dusk,       dark sea.
                          roseate and slow, envelops it. What use is it to          Feeling myself in the presence of something sa-
                          say the Old Town is beautiful? The word has been          cred, I thought of people I would like to share this
                          squandered on vulgarities. Dubrovnik, worshipped          with. After a little while we walked down another
                          by the green Adriatic at its feet, is a vision of some    set of steps, to a landing where the sea splashes
                          celestial city the world no longer believes in, a         were louder. A ferry, lit up like a vagabond cabaret,
                          glimpse of perfection that fills you with longing.        made its way across the horizon. It moved almost
                                                                                    as imperceptibly as the moon itself. As I watched,

                                                                                                                                            photos: Dramatic Setting – the Old City of Dubrovnik
                          You enter by crossing a drawbridge to pass                it suddenly occurred to me that all those faraway,
                          through a gate in the ancient city walls. All the         beloved people I had been missing were in fact
                          trees look vaguely Biblical, their foliage dark under     present, represented somehow, in this impossible
                          the deepening cobalt of the sky. Within, lights are       vista. The very way it engrossed me in the here and
                          turning on at the restaurants and cafes, glinting on      now, paradoxically, brought the there and then right
                          streets and alleyways smooth as marble.                   into my lap.
                          Winding corridors lead away from the centre.              It was not easy to leave. On the way home – the
                          Mounting the stairs and steep laneways, we felt as        town’s lights now too bright – two of us stopped at
                          though we were backstage: in these shady pas-             an Internet cafe, splitting a 15-minute session for
                          sages where residents hang out their washing,             5 kuna. We had a good laugh over our emails from
                          Dubrovnik’s real life and dramas go on. Climbing          home. But it’s funny: such a moment as we had
                          higher, we turned a corner and saw before us a            watching the moon and water makes me feel more
                          wooden sign. “The most beautiful view,” it prom-          connected than email ever will.
                          ised, offering an arrow.
                                                                                    - MARIE GLANCY.
                          We followed the arrow, turned another corner.
                          And suddenly, at the streets’ pinnacle, without
                          ceremony, a simple hole in the city wall presented
                          itself. Through it was a landing. Below, clinging to      don’t Miss
                          the fortifications, held precariously over a crashing
                                                                                    Here are some of the best tips for any visit to
                          nighttime sea, nestled a little open-air bar. It was so
                                                                                    Dubrovnik, so make sure you don’t miss the
                          charming and so quiet that it did not mar but even
                          accentuated the stunning surrounds.
                          We had little trouble understanding why the spot
                          was so quiet: we were dumbstruck. Barely did we           •   Walk around the city walls
                          talk for the hour we remained there, and anything         •   Museum at Rector’s Pala
                          we said, we whispered. I have never felt so silenced      •   Summer Festival Concerts
                                                                                    •   A trip out to Lokrum Island
   34   packed magazine                                                             •   Dominican Monastery


  23                                                                            events&tips
                              formed movies. There are         ten get a bad press, but      across the city. Perform-        the planet.
Austria                       various different categories     at the Banlieues Bleues       ers and artists from             >
                              to the festival, but often the   festival there is a more      around the world come
SALZBURG                      most interesting and cre-        positive message being        to Budapest to take part,        TURIN
MAsters of dirt               ative entries can be found in    offered. Some of the big-     and the programme is so          GAy And lesbiAn
9 MARCH                       the section devoted to films     gest names in French jazz,    varied you are sure to find      filM Festival
Freestyle motorcross ac-      made in only 48 hours.           blues and hip hop will be     something that interests         17-25 APRIL
tion in the Arena, with all   >            heading to Seine St Denis     you.                             The Turin Gay and Lesbian
kinds of high adrenaline                                       for the festival, that is a                                    Film Festival has been
jumps and tricks from         Denmark                          month-long celebration of                                      challenging stereotypes
some of the best dirt-bike                                     music and local culture.      Iceland                          and conventions since
riders on the planet.         COPENHAGEN                       > www.banlieues-                                               it was founded in 1986,
> www.mastersofdirt.          nAtfilM festivAl                                                             and has become arguably
com                           28 MARCH – 6 APRIL                                                                              the best film festival of
                              The biggest film festival in                                                                    its type anywhere in the
werfen ice cAves              Denmark takes place at the       Germany                                                        world. Films are entered
FROM 1 APRIL                  end of March, with films                                                                        in various categories from
The largest ice cave net-     being screened in cinemas        BERLIN                                                         around the world.
work in the world can be      across Copenhagen, as well       britspottinG                                                   > www.turinglfilmfesti-
found not far from Salz-      as in Odense, Aalborg and        10-16 APRIL                                          
burg, and they are truly a    Aarhus. The festival’s main      The Britspotting Film
sight to see. Altogether      aim is to promote Danish         Festival comes to Berlin
they run 42km into the        filmmakers, although there       at the end of April, and                                       Ireland
side of the mountain, and     are a number of internation-     showcases a number if
although only a fraction is   al entries being screened        independent British films                                      DUBLIN
open to the public, they      as well.                         at the ACUD cinema in         REYKJAVIK                        st pAtrick’s dAy
are well worth checking       >                 Berlin-Mitte. The films       into tHe blue
out.                                                           include everything from       lAGoon
                                                               features to shorts via        No, it’s not a dubious bar
MAYRHOFEN                                                      documentaries, and offers     of ill-repute – and even
snowboMbinG                                                    a great overview of come      if it was, in Iceland you
31 MARCH – 6 APRIL                                             of the new talents coming     couldn’t afford the prices.
Nearly two hundred                                             out of the British film-      The Blue Lagoon is actu-
DJs and live acts will be                                      making scene.                 ally a unique geothermal
heading to the Tyrolean                                        >         spa where you can bathe
resort of Mayrhofen for                                                                      in comfort, outdoors, even
the annual Snowbombing                                         MUNICH                        in the midst of Iceland’s
festival, a week-long riot                                     sprinG festivAl               still-chilly Springtime.
of music, top snowboard-      Finland                          20 APRIL – 6 MAY              Not only is it a cool thing
ers and crazy parties.                                         If you can’t wait for the     to do, but apparently it
The best boarders in the      HELSINKI                         Oktoberfest, then head to     is good for you as well,
world will be competing       beer festivAl                    the Theresienwiese at the     with the blue green algae        17 MARCH
for medals on the slopes,     11-12 APRIL                      end of April for the Spring   being especially good for        The 17th March will be
whilst the town drinks        The Helsinki Beer Festival       Festival, a fine collection   the skin.                        celebrated in Irish pubs
itself into a stupor in the   takes place every year, and      of beer tents offering top    >             across Europe, but for
24-hour bars and endless      2008 marks the eleventh an-      quality local brews, and                                       the real St Patrick’s Day
DJ-sets.                      niversary of this celebration    fairground rides - a com-                                      experience, head to the
> www.snowbombing.            of all things alcoholic. There   bination that may or may      Italy                            Irish capital. For five days                         are beers, ciders and whis-      not be such a wise idea,                                       the city comes alive with
                              kies from around the world       depending on how many         MILAN                            music, theatre, films, pa-
Belgium                       waiting to be sampled, as        large beers you sink.         pHotosHow                        rades and exhibitions, and
                              well as local Finnish tipples                                  5-7 APRIL                        the odd pint of Guinness is
BRUSSELS                      and music to keep you en-                                      One of the largest inter-        drunk as well.
sHort filM                    tertained while you sup.         Hungary                       national photography
festivAl                      > www.helsinkibeerfes-                                         fairs in the world, Milan’s      literAry pub crAwl
25 APRIL – 4 MAY                            BUDAPEST                      Photoshow is devoted to          THU-SUN
The Brussels Festival                                          sprinG festivAl               everything and anything          Dublin is famous for its
of Short Films offer the                                       14-30 March                   to do with cameras, in-          Guinness and its great
chance for the goldfish       France                           The biggest arts festival     cluding a chance to check        writers, so what better
amongst you to find a cin-                                     in the country, the Bu-       out the latest models, get       way to combine the two
ema experience that suits     PARIS                            dapest Spring Festival        tips at special classes and      than through a literary pub
your attention span, with     bAnlieues bleues                 combines classical music,     workshops, and check out         crawl? Tours take you to
an international selec-       14 MARCH – 18 APRIL              jazz, modern dance, films     the work of some of the          some of the haunts and fa-
tion of small but perfectly   The Parisian suburbs of-         and exhibitions at venues     best photographers on            vourite drinking dens of the

                                                                                                                           packed magazine   35


      23                                                                               events&tips
likes of Joyce, Beckett,          KRAKOW                       Fallas is Valencia’s biggest   experience, aided by the       a great permanent collection
Shaw amongst others,              to tHe sAlt Mines            festival and is infamous for   soundtrack of Metallica        as well as superb temporary
and features commentary           witH you                     its fireworks and burning      as you make your way           installations in the vast turbine
and performances on               The Salt Mines at Wielic-    effigies that illuminate the   to the edge of the plat-       hall, the best bit for budget
some of the most famous           zka are accessible in a      city streets over a riotous    form…                          conscious travellers is that
pieces of Irish and Dublin        day-trip from Krakow and     week of fun.                                                  much of it is free.
literature.                       are open year round. The     >
> www.dublinpubcrawl.             mine was operational for                                                                   tHe boAt rAce
com                               900 years, and in nine                                                                     29 MARCH
                                  centuries they had a lot     Switzerland                                                   If you want to see a little slice
DONEGAL TOWN                      of time to carve out the                                                                   of English upper class tradi-
pAn-celtic festivAl               stunning passageways                                                                       tion, then check out the River
25-30 MARCH                       and caves, underground                                                                     Thames on the 29th March
Live music from around            lakes and even chapels,                                                                    when the crews of Oxford and
the Celtic nations of Ire-        that you can see now.                                                                      Cambridge Universities take
land, Scotland, Brittany,         > www.krakow-info.                                                                         place in the annual boat race.
Wales, the Isle of Man            com/wielicz.htm                                             Turkey                         The two most famous universi-
and Cornwall. The musi-                                                                                                      ties in the country have been
cians will be joined by                                                                       ISTANBUL                       battling it out over this four
dancers, sportsmen and            Slovenia                                                    istAnbul                       mile course since 1829, mak-
artists in this celebration                                                                   internAtionAl filM             ing it one of the oldest sporting
of Celtic culture.                LJUBLJANA                                                   festivAl                       events in the world.
>               MetelkovA Mesto                                             5-20 APRIL
                                  A former military bar-                                      The variety of films on
                                  racks, the Metelkova                                        offer at the Istanbul In-
                                  Mesto is now an urban                                       ternational Film Festival
                                  space devoted to the al-                                    is truly mind-blowing,
                                  ternative cultural scene.                                   with everything from full
                                  A legendary meeting          INTERLAKEN                     length features to shorts,
                                  point for artists, travel-   tAke tHe leAp                  via documentaries and
                                  lers, and the young          Fancy jumping off a moun-      experimental art pieces,
                                  people of the city, the      tain with only a glorified     from directors and film-
                                  former soldiers’ blocks      kite above you, and then       makers from around the
                                  have been pressed into       floating serenely down into    world.                         EDINBURGH
                                  service as outlets for       the city centre? Interlaken    >              deAd by dAwn
Netherlands                       various cultural projects.   is one of the best places to                                  24-27 APRIL
                                  Exhibition spaces, artists   have a go at paragliding,                                     If you like horror films then
AMSTERDAM                         studios, a hostel, gay and   with expert supervision        united                         Edinburgh is the place to be at
Queen’s dAy                       lesbian clubs, an infor-     and breathtaking views         Kingdom                        the end of April, for the annual
30 APRIL                          mation centre and much       of the Eiger, Mönch and                                       Dead by Dawn film festival,
The Dutch celebrate their         more all combine to cre-     Jungfrau.                      LONDON                         the only one in the UK to be
Queen’s birthday – or at          ate a truly unique and                                      tAte Modern                    devoted entirely to scaring the
least, her mother’s – on          creative atmosphere.         tAke tHe leAp ii               Set in a spectacular loca-     crap out of its audiences. Films
the 30th April and turn it                                     Or how about a 134m            tion, in the shell of an old   run all day until 3am, when the
into one big street party.                                     bungee jump, suspended         power station, the Tate        after party takes the hard core
Over a million people             Spain                        over the Lake Hinterstock-     Modern has become              through to morning and it all
will be on the streets of                                      ensee, arguably the most       one of London’s most           starts again…just don’t go
Amsterdam for party that                                       impressive jump in Eu-         popular attractions since      out alone!
goes on overnight and                                          rope? A nerve-shredding        it opened in 2000. With        >
through the next day, with
clubs and bars mark-
ing the day with special                                          nextissue
events.                                                           coming up in the Summer edition of packed magazine. The new issue is available
                                                                  across Europe from early May. free download from

Poland                                                            Euro 2008: a guide to all the footballing fun in Austria
                                  VALENCIA                        and switzerland / iconic Summer Festivals / exploring
                                  lAs fAllAs                      Moscow and St Petersburg / summertime in Rome /
                                  15-19 MARCH
                                  Expect two million              events and travel tips / plus destination spotlights Sarajevo,
                                  people, explosions and          Reykjavik, Valencia
                                  fires, parades and the
                                  odd glass of wine…Las
                                                                  Advertisers book for suMMer issue now!

           36   packed magazine
                                                                               matesdirectory packed mates
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rather be in... The Blue Lagoon, iceland
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