Lau Chi-sun on Gaddis

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					                                                                                                     Lau Chi-sun on Gaddi’s

                     “It is good to remember the dishes that accompany me through life, and

                                                                                                          ime stands still for Lau Chi-sun whenever he sets eyes         Lau has already fallen in love with Executive Chef David
                                                                                                          on the decor of the 80-year-old Peninsula and, of course,      Goodridge’s recent culinary amusements. “David’s dishes still amaze
                     I am tempted to come back to Gaddi’s at least several times a year”

                                                                                                          the 55-year-old Gaddi’s, the epitome of old Hong               me every now and then, and I appreciate his own creations the
                                                                                              Kong. Succumbing once again to its ambience, with crystal and              most,” Lau enthuses.
                                                                                              silver chandeliers from Paris, Tai Ping carpeting and a Chinese                 Goodridge pays detailed attention to taste, texture and
                                                                                              coromandel screen dating from 1670, Lau, who celebrated his                presentation, and he favours light, delicate but flavoursome foams
                                                                                              50th birthday at the venue, shares his Gaddi’s memories as he sips         rather than thick, buttery sauces. As Lau samples the lobster raviolo
                                                                                              a glass of dry sherry.                                                     with black truffle, he judges it: “An amazing taste combination with
                                                                                                   “We were in the private function room, drinking our 1942 rum          black truffles bringing out the lobster flavour. What more can I say?”
                                                                                              until we finished the last drop,” Lau says of his birthday bash. “Not           He continues his fulsome praise: “For me, Chef Goodridge
                                                                                              to mention having my favorite crêpes farcies au crabe [thin pancakes       always uses classical ingredients in exciting, innovative ways, and
                                                                                              filled with crab meat in a Chablis beurre blanc] during our                turns simple food such as tomatoes into spectacular terrain. It has a
                                                                                              unforgettable conversations. It was truly an enjoyable night.”             clean taste and the presentation is unquestionably terrific.
                                                                                                   Leaving historical splendour aside, Lau says service can be                “I know Gaddi’s reputation has long been challenged by the
                                                                                              memorable either because it delights diners or because it leaves           ‘boom’ of many other restaurants, but the service is still excellent,”
                                                                                              them sorely disappointed. For Lau, the importance of delivering            Lau comments. “The waiters are professional, and the food
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Clockwise from above: Lobster raviolo with black truffle, herb puree
                                                                                              a “wow” moment is summed up in the old saying: the world is                – classically French but with inventive, European influences –           and lightly whipped lobster bisque; Lau Chi-sun reminiscences on his
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  good old days at Gaddi’s; pressed tomato terrine with roasted tomato
                                                                                              moved along not only by the mighty shoves of its heroes, but also          is always beyond question.                                               sherbet and pan-fried Hokkaido scallop
                                                                                              by the aggregate of the tiny pushes of each honest worker. And, in              “They don’t make restaurants like this any more and everyone
                                                                                              Gaddi’s case, both the chef and the serving staff amaze Lau. Hinting       should dine at Gaddi’s at least once in their lifetime, even if on
                                                                                              at a wilder side, he adds: “Plus there’s live music at night and a small   quaking feet on their first visit! Nothing can replace its glamour
                                                                                              dance floor.                                                               and sheer indulgence.”
                                                                                                   “It is good to remember the dishes that accompany me on my                 As the publisher of Wine Now magazine and a well known
                                                                                              journey through life, like Gaddi’s signature finest smoked Balik           wine critic in town, Lau is also impressed with Gaddi’s wine
                                                                                              salmon with Oscietra caviar or the pigeon with black truffle and           cellar: “It is among the best in Hong Kong, with a collection of
                                                                                              goose liver. I am tempted to come back at least several times a year.”     rare vintages, including 1928, the year of the hotel’s opening.”
                                                                                              Other past wonderful dishes include roasted milk-fed lamb rack in               The restaurant’s commitment to quality touches Lau, and
                                                                                              herb crust with olive jus, and turbot poached on the bone in milk          while he samples and adores the slow-cooked lamb loin, he says:
                                                                                              infused with cloves with a black-truffle cappuccino, and                   “I am definitely coming back for this again soon.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         ReSeRvAtIonS: Recommended DReSS CoDe:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Jacket required LUnCH HoURS: 12:00pm -
                                                                                                                                                 ExEcutivE chEf DaviD GooDriDGE                                                                                                                                          3:00pm DInneR HoURS: 7:00pm - 11:00pm
                                                                                                                                                 Consistency is Executive Chef David Goodridge’s motto when it comes to maintain-                                                                                        Set menU: Lunch and dinner BUffetS: No
                                                                                                                                                 ing food quality – that and a fine-dining restaurant’s reputation at large. He delivers his                                                                             veGetARIAn DISHeS: 3 - 5 AmenItIeS:
                                                                                                                                                 interpretation of modern European haute cuisine with a mastery of French technique                                                                                      Separate bar, dancing, live music CAR vALet:
                                                                                                                                                 and a changing menu that reflects the seasons in France, and selects the highest-quality                                                                                Yes CReDIt CARDS: AE, V, MC, DC, JCB YeAR
                                                                                                                                                 imported products. He has an intelligent, contemporary approach, emphasising                                                                                            eStABLISHeD: 1953
                                                                                                                                                 splendid presentation and creating a rich tapestry of unique flavours. “But inspiration
                                                                                                                                                 doesn’t always suffice and I just have to keep up with hard work and ambition,” he                                                                                      Address: The Peninsula Hong Kong,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
                                                                                                                                                 says. The tasting menu is one of Hong Kong’s most exciting gourmet experiences. On
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         tel: +852 2315 3171
                                                                                                                                                 the evening of December 18, 2008, the restaurant’s 55th anniversary, Gaddi’s will serve
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         fax: +852 2315 3140
                                                                                                                                                 a gala menu featuring the very best of French produce paired with rare wines, and                                                                                       e-mail:
                                                                                                                                                 Goodridge is in high gear preparing for what he expects to be an unforgettable night.                                                                                   Website:

            12     Dining With Stars                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Dining With Stars   12

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