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optional OPTIONAL Dtop &TOP & BASE Dresser RESSER base

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This optional top and base give the- this point the front and side pieces to the case. And this is just a matter dresser a slightly more traditional can be mitred to length. Then cut of a few holes in the right places. look. I and base give the his optional topadded a few more “curves” this pointpiece front between the toFirst, case. Andframeispiecesa from the I cut the this just matter At the back the to fit and side and didn’t use traditional dye dresser a slightly morethe dark cherrypieces sides. Finally, you can lay out and of18mm stock and the right places. a few holes in routed the cove on can be mitered to length. on look. I added the knobs, base, and top. Then cut the gentle, arching curves (Figs. the front cut the frame pieces from a few more “curves” First, I and sides. Next, the front cut the back piece to fit BASE. I started with the base. 1 and 1a). I assembled the frame and sides are mitred and the back and didn’t use theyou take a look at Fig. 1 with a sides. Finally, you can in 3/and centre fillers are cut to fit (Fig.the between the reinforcing block glued 4" stock and routed the cove on When dark cherry dye on the knobs, base, and top. lay outeach corner. And adding the 18mm frontNow before attaching the frame and cut the gentle, arching you’ll see how it goes together. It’s 2). and sides. Next, the front and really nothing the base. pieces to the case, and the to drill BASE . I started with more than an apron, plywood and 1a). curves (Figs. 1 centre panel completes sides are mitered you need back and mitredlook theFig. 1 you’ll at at front corners, that the base. the frame with onrein- of center fillersholescut towill(Fig. up The panel sits a top some 9mm are that fit line 2). When you take a I assembled captures a plywood centre panel. the back apron piece. with the mounting holes in the top see how it goes together. It’s really cut to Now before attaching the frame forcing block glued in each corner. With the four apron pieces TOP. For the optional top, I added divider (Fig. 2). These holes allow 3/ " plywood center nothing more you’ll first need to rebate the adding the 4 the solid-wood top to pieces screws case, you need to drill And a cove under size, than an apron, your to the to pass through the mitered at top inside edges of the front panel completes the base. The panelAs some 3/and intothat will line up with the front corners, that and create a pleasing, built-up look. frame 8" holes the top (Fig. 2a). sides (Fig. 1b). This rebate holdson Fig. 2 shows, the cove pieces form a the mounting frame is added, the Once the cove holes in the top sits top of the back apron piece. captures a plywood center panel. the centre panel. And next a simple . For the optional top, Itop. There’s divider (Fig. 2). These holes allow frame that supports the added a 18m-thick solid-wood top can be TOP With the four apron pieces cut to round-over will soften the outside nothing difficult about piecing the made and installed. A roundover size, you’ll edges. If you look close, you’ll see under together. The only trick to your the bottom of the through the first need to rabbet the cove frame the solid-wood top here on screws to pass front and top inside edges of the front and 1b). At is attaching the frame and solid top frame and into theneeds (Fig.2a). a short shoulder here (Fig. create a pleasing, built-up look. As sidesedges is all it top (Fig. 2a).

sides (Fig. 1b). This rabbet holds the center panel. And next a simple round-over will No. 54 the outside Online Extras soften edges. If you look close, you’ll see a short shoulder here (Fig. 1b).

Fig. 2 shows, the cove pieces form a frame that supports the top. There’s nothing difficult about piecing the Australian Woodsmith frame together. The only trick here is attaching the frame and solid top

Once the cove frame is added, the 3/ "-thick solid-wood top can be 4 made and installed. A roundover on 01 the bottom of the front and sides edges is all it needs (Fig. 2a).


				
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posted:7/15/2009
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