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					                                                                     2004 HARVEST REPORT


WILSON DANIELS LTD. • P. O. BOX 440-B • ST. HELENA, CA 94574 • TEL. 707.963.9661 • FAX 707.963.8566
Table of Contents                                        WDLt d. Harvest Edition 2004
 The Wine Portfolio:
 Gainey Vineyard: An interview with Dan Gainey ......................................................... 1 - 3
 Harvest at Clos Pegase ............................................................................................... 4 - 5
 Kumeu River & Felton Road “Great Wines for Food” ......................................................... 5
 Schramsberg Vineyards .................................................................................................... 6
 Royal Tokaji 1995 First Growths ...................................................................................... 7
 Dessert Pairings with Royal Tokaji ................................................................................... 7
 Wilson Daniels Employees Salute!.................................................................................... 8
 Domaine Dujac................................................................................................................. 8
 Fisher Vineyards Harvest Blessing, Robert C., and Cameron ............................................ 9
 Domaine Leflaive ........................................................................................................... 10
 Domaine Pierre Morey & Morey-Blanc ........................................................................... 11
 Harvest at Wirra Wirra .................................................................................................. 12
 Salon Champagne........................................................................................................... 13
 Ilona 2000 & 2001 Howell Mountain .............................................................................. 14
 Burgess Cellars Library Release; 2004 Harvest ............................................................. 14
 EOS Estate Harvest 2004 .............................................................................................. 15
 Cupa Grandis ................................................................................................................. 15
 HdV 2002 Chardonnay and Syrah ................................................................................... 16
 Harvest at Hyde Vineyard 2004...................................................................................... 16
 Juslyn 2000 & 2001 Cabernets ...................................................................................... 17
 Vintage 2004 at Grant Burge .................................................................................... 18 -19
 Grant Burge Decanter Interview .................................................................................... 19
 Girard Winery, by Michael Lonsford .............................................................................. 20
 Domaine des Perrieres, Kreydenweiss ........................................................................... 21
 Domaine Kreydenweiss Harvest 2004 ............................................................................ 22
 Domaine Triennes Viognier ............................................................................................. 22
 Felton Road Pinot Noir ................................................................................................... 23
 Ponzi Vineyards .............................................................................................................. 23
 100 Wines to drink before you die .................................................................................. 24
 Silverado Vineyards........................................................................................................ 25
 Kuleto Estate ................................................................................................................. 26
 Try Sauvignon Blanc. . . for a change.............................................................................. 27
 Tenimenti Angelini: Winery of the Year .......................................................................... 27
 Delamotte Champagne ................................................................................................... 27
 WillaKenzie Estate ......................................................................................................... 28
 Domaine Joseph Faiveley ............................................................................................... 29
 Introducing Mastroberardino ......................................................................................... 30
 The Spirits Portfolio:
 Fernet Branca Poster..................................................................................................... 31
 Molinari Sambuca extra, Fernet-Branca, Bafferts, Zaya Rum ........................................ 32
 Introducing Caffè Borghetti ............................................................................................ 33
 Cabo Wabo Gift Set......................................................................................................... 34
 Corralejo Tequila ............................................................................................................ 35
 Casa Noble Tequila ......................................................................................................... 35

 The WDQ Limited Edition is published by Wilson Daniels Ltd., 1201 Dowdell Lane, St. Helena, CA.
 The editor is Sue Kibbe, Director of Creative Services. Printer is Ben Franklin Press & Label Co., Napa, CA.
 For inquiries, address changes, or free subscriptions, contact info@wilsondaniels.com or visit our website:
 www.wilsondaniels.com. Our special thanks to Andy Katz for his photographs of Gainey Vineyards.
An interview with Dan H. Gainey:

Your grandfather, Daniel C. Gainey, was
from Minnesota and purchased land in
Santa Barbara County over 40 years ago.
What motivated him to move to Cali-

“My grandfather (Dan C.) and father
                                                      Gainey Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley, view of the winery.
(Dan J.) originally came to this area
in the 1950’s to set up a west coast       showing or breeding as much as before      In the 1990’s Gainey Vineyard caught
manufacturing plant for Josten’s, an       but we still have a great love for them.   the limelight with some remarkable
educational products company they          They’re like family.”                      white wines. What were those wines and
owned that was based in Minnesota.                                                    the awards?
They chose Summerland (just south          So how did you get started growing
of Santa Barbara) to locate the plant.     grapes?                                    “Well, the Wine Spectator, Robert
When they came to California to                                                       Parker, Jr. and the Wine Enthusiast
oversee the plant construction, they       “By the early 1980’s, we had 20 years      all gave us very favorable ratings dur-
would take sightseeing trips to out-       of experience farming and ranching our     ing that period, but the one review
lying areas on weekends. On one of         land. We had developed a great un-         that stood out was ‘The Chardonnay
those trips, they visited the Santa        derstanding of our climate and soil        Challenge’ by the Spectator in 1997.
Ynez Valley, and it was love at first      types and after doing much research        It was a blind tasting of 40 wines -
sight. They purchased what would           decided that we had the ideal condi-       20 California Chardonnays and 20
come to be known as our ‘Home              tions to grow some grape varieties.”       white Burgundies from two outstand-
Ranch’ in 1962.”                                                                      ing vintages. James Laube ranked our
                                           How do you determine which varietals       1995 Limited Selection Chardonnay
Gainey Ranch is now the largest di-        to grow in which areas of the ranch?       first, with 98 points, for that vintage.
versified farm in the Santa Ynez                                                      It was a real validation of the qual-
Valley. What crops do you grow?            “After farming the property for 20         ity that this area can produce.”
                                           years, we found that there were cer-
“Flowers, squash, pumpkins, peppers,       tain areas that had very shallow, nu-      How do you determine which wines
tomatoes, broccoli, melons, sugar          trient poor soils that were well drained   will become Limited Selection and
beets, corn, beans, alfalfa, wheat, bar-   and sloped. These locations were           which will comprise the Gainey Vine-
ley; grapes, of course; cattle and Ara-    never any good for farming anything        yard bottlings?
bian horses”                               else but after doing some research we
                                           discovered that they would be excep-       “Quality. Although most of our
What about those beautiful Gainey          tional for grapes.”                        wines are made from Estate vine-
Fountainhead Arabians? Do you still                                                   yards, they do not automatically go
breed them?                                Are you 100% estate grown?                 into the Limited Selection program.
                                                                                      We are only interested in putting the
“Yes, but not to the same degree as we     “No but close. Between the two             best lots from any vintage in the pro-
used to. When my grandfather was           properties (one region III, the other      gram. If some outside vineyard pro-
alive, we had up to 250 horses in the      region I) we grow 80-90% of the            duces the best wine – so be it. That’s
herd. Now it’s more like 30. We’re not     fruit we need.”                            what we’ll use.”
                                                                                                            WDQLTD. • 1
                   Interview with Dan H. Gainey,

                   Your vineyard manager, Jeff Newton, has
                   been with you for a long time. What
                   are the important viticultural lessons
                   you’ve learned over the years?

                   “Jeff has been with us since the begin-
                   ning in 1984. He is clearly one of the
                   best and most highly respected vine-
                   yard managers in the Central Coast.

                   “We’ve all learned a lot over the
                                                                               Dan H. Gainey practices sustainable viticulture at Gainey Vineyards.
                   years. The most important lesson
                   has come from the trial and error of                 spacing systems to fine tune our          eficial insects and predators, replac-
                   planting different varieties in differ-              quality even more.                        ing gopher poison with habitat boxes
                   ent microclimates and different soil                                                           for predatory owls, hanging phero-
                   profiles. You can learn about what                   “I think the other great viticultural     mone traps for vine mealybugs, and
                   works in other grape growing ar-                     lesson we’ve learned is how to im-        employing tillage implements to
                   eas but nothing can substitute for                   prove our stewardship of the land.        eliminate herbicides altogether.
                   the practical knowledge gained by                    We are big proponents of progres-         We’re strongly in the sustainable
                   actually experimenting yourself.                     sive farming techniques which in-         farming camp.”
                   Now that we have a really good                       clude such things as: planting cover
                   feel for where the varieties do best                 crops that improve the soil’s natural     Tell us about your plantings in the
                   in our area, we are doing a great                    fertility, abandoning the use of pre-     Santa Rita Hills AVA – or what was
                   deal of experimentation with dif-                    emergents to prevent weeds from           to become this new viticulture area.
                   f e r e n t c l o n a l m a t e r i a l s , ro o t   sprouting, planting other vegetation
                   stocks, trellising techniques, and                   around the vineyards to attract ben-      “For many years, we relied entirely
                                                                                                                  on outside vineyard sources for our
                                                                                                                  Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fruit.
                                                                                                                  In the early days, that worked fine
                                                                                                                  because there were so many great
                                                                                                                  sources in Santa Barbara County
                                                                                                                  available to us. But in the late 1980’s
                                                                                                                  and early 1990’s things began to

                                                                                                                  “Many large companies from the
Photo: Andy Katz

                                                                                                                  North Coast who had been buying
                                                                                                                  fruit from our local vineyards decided
                                                                                                                  that the relatively inexpensive land
                                                                                                                  prices here, combined with the high
                                                                                                                  quality of fruit being produced was too
                             Gainey Vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County                      good to pass up. So they started
                     2 • WDQLTD.
                                                       asked him if he wanted     an incredible amount of positive
                                                       to sell and after some     a t t e n t i o n s i n c e i t s a p p rova l a
                                                       persuasion he agreed.      couple years ago. We have our
                                                       “Evan’s Ranch is now       ow n a s s o c i a t i o n o f p ro d u c e r s
                                                       planted to 10 different    called the Santa Rita Hills Wine-

Dan J. Gainey began planting vines
 with his son in the early 1980’s.
buying up not only existing vine-
yards but also large tracts of unde-
veloped land to plant. The writing
was on the wall. We weren’t too con-
cerned about our ability to get high
quality fruit in the near term but we
started to have doubts about secur-               Aerial view of Gainey Ranch, with Arabian Horse paddocks.

ing those sources in 30 or 40 years.     clones of Chardonnay, 7 clones of Pi-    growers Alliance, and I am on its
We just were not willing to put those    not and 4 clones of Syrah. Almost        board of directors.”
important programs at risk. We           every year we are adding to those
needed our own vineyards.                plantings. Next year, we will add our    Gainey Vineyards is one of the top attrac-
                                         second high density (6 feet x 3 feet)    tions for travelers in California. How
“By that time, we’d had much expe-       Pinot vineyard. The fruit from the       many visitors do you have each year?
rience with Chardonnay and Pinot         property is exceptional.”
Noir grown in all parts of Santa Bar-                                             “For some reason, we have ended up
bara County. But, in our minds, one      I understand that your involvement in    being one of the most visited wineries
area always stood out. The western       gaining recognition for the Santa Rita   in the state. Each year we have tens of
end of the Santa Ynez Valley. That       Hills region has been significant.       thousands of people who come thru our
area always seemed to produce the                                                 facility. I can pretty much travel any-
best. So we started searching for a      “I have been very involved during        where in this country and run into some-
property there that could give us 50 -   the last several years with a small      one who has visited us and has had a
100 plantable acres. If you are at all   group of growers from the area in        great experience here.”
familiar with that part of the Valley,   getting the Santa Rita Hills approved
you know that it is very difficult to    by the Federal government as its own     The Gainey family clearly has a visionary
find that kind of plantable acreage      AVA. We believed that it was dis-        gene in its DNA. Do you get together with
without buying huge tracts of land       tinct enough from the warmer, east-      your dad and make plans for the future of
because most of the area is too steep.   ern portion of the Santa Ynez Val-       Gainey Vineyards?
So we looked for about three years       ley, where temperatures during the
and could not find what we wanted.       growing season are typically 20 de-      “Dad and I try to set aside time regu-
I had gotten pretty frustrated because   grees higher during the day, that it     larly when we have no distractions
there was a property that seemed to      deserved its own appellation. The        and talk about nothing current, only
be ideal for what we wanted but it       government agreed and now that           the future. Our visions for the fu-
was not for sale. Finally one day I      western portion of the Valley is the     ture of Gainey Vineyard? You’ll have
knocked on the owner’s door and          Santa Rita Hills AVA. It has received    to wait and see!”
                                                                                                            WDQLTD. • 3
                                                           little respite from either the heat or the workload, with
                                                           a further 188 tons arriving at the winery. The result – a
                                                           mere three weeks after finishing bottling our 2003 wines,
                                                           we were 75% through the 2004 harvest!

                                                           “The pace has returned to normal now, with the remain-
                                                           ing 25% of our fruit arriving in a more civilized fashion
                                                           over the following weeks, and I write in the middle of
                                                           this, with the Graveyard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon still
                                                           hanging on the vines. An indication of the earliness of
                                                           the season is the harvest dates of the Cabernet Sauvignon
                                                           on Graveyard Hill. Typically, we harvest in late Octo-
                                                           ber, and frequently (1998, 1999, 2002) into the first
                                                           week of November. Our earliest harvest to date was
                                                           1997, when this fruit concluded harvest on October 6th.
                                                           A new record is a slight possibility for the earliest finish
                                                           to the harvest also… It is rather strange this year to
                                                           drive through the Napa Valley in September and see no
                                                           fruit whatsoever hanging in the fields – with the rare
                                                           exception of small parcels of purple grapes appearing as if
                                                           a mirage.

                                                           “In terms of quality, look forward to delicious and el-
                                                           egant wines from this harvest. One of the joys of har-
                                                           vest this year was that despite the crazy pace of picking
                                                           (which was echoed throughout the Valley), the fruit
                                                           tasted great, making all of our efforts seem worthwhile!
                                                           Pinot Noir has lovely depth and more structure than in
                                                           2002 and 2003, yet with great finesse. Chardonnay
                                                           will show a balance of rich, ripe fruit, tempered with a
                                                           vibrant palate: this year overall saw slightly higher acid-
 Sauvignon Blanc begins the early harvest at Clos Pegase
                                                           ity in all varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon is refined and
 CLOS PEGASE HARVEST REPORT: 2004                          elegant, a step back from the lush and ripe 2002 and
                                                           2003 wines, and more like the purity of fruit in 1999
“The culmination of the year’s growing season was upon     and 2001. When tasting through tanks to decide on
us early in 2004. An early Spring followed by a warm,      when to press the macerating Cabernet Sauvignon
but not hot Summer, led us to start harvest from our       grapes, I frequently find myself returning to taste tanks
Estate vineyards on the earliest date yet: August 23rd.    a second time purely because the wines have such depth
                                                           and balance and warrant a second stamp of approval!
“As we worked through the final week of August bot-
tling our 2003 Chardonnay in the Stelvin bottle, using     “Yields for the season are down slightly from average,
our new machine on our own bottling line, we were          and early reports show this trend is across Napa, if not
busily harvesting 11 tons of Sauvignon Blanc and 29        the whole State. Our Cabernet Sauvignon at Palisades
tons of Pinot Noir from Mitsuko’s Vineyard in Carneros.    was the worst hit. Not only did we suffer a cool Spring
The next week, the very end of August moving into Sep-     in 2003, which limited the total number of clusters for
tember, saw us pick a little more Pinot Noir, but it was   the 2004 season, but a cool trend at the end of April
a hot spell in the first few days of September that saw    this year, right at the commencement of flowering, saw
harvest commence at a frenzied pace. 239 tons were         many potential berries dry and ‘shatter’, leading to the
received in the week of September 5th through 11th,        few clusters we did have ending up with fewer than nor-
over one third of the crush. The following week saw        mal berries. This light crop contributed to the early
 4 • WDQLTD.
and compressed harvest this year – with less fruit to ripen,
the vines produced flavor faster, and the year marks the
earliest harvest ever for Palisades. Our Cabernet
Sauvignon from Calistoga was picked a full two weeks
ahead of 1997: probably due to the fact that the crop
from the enormous 1997 harvest was 152 tons, com-
pared to 57 tons in 2004!

“Merlot and Chardonnay have returned from the mi-                           NEW ZEALAND WINES
serly yields of 2003 to the almost ideal yields at around
3 – 31/2 tons per acre. This is the exact balance we seek for
                                                                          BRING JOY TO YOUR TABLE
fruit intensity and optimum hang time to ripeness.              “. . . one winery, located not far from Auckland, has been
Sauvignon Blanc was brutally hit by the cool spell in           wowing me for years now, vintage in and vintage out,
April; our single block of fruit in Carneros, which typi-       with its extremely elegant Chards, which often seem like
cally produces 25-30 tons of grapes, managed a scant            ringers for steely, classic white Burgundy. If you can
11.5 tons this year, primarily due to poor set (in a very       find a bottle of the 2002 Kumeu River Chardonnay,
similar way to the Cabernet Sauvignon, although reports         you’ll see exactly what I mean. . . If you want a little
are that Sauvignon Blanc throughout the Napa Valley             more muscle and strength, you might want to try the
was very light).                                                2002 Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay, a
                                                                single-vineyard Chardonnay. Beautifully made wine,
“What’s next? The months of October and November                with tightly coiled fruit and subtle hints of wood spice.
will give us time to wrap up these elegant and sumptu-          Gamble on a Meursault-like evolution for 3–5 years.”
ous wines before returning to the 2003 reds in barrel.
Come December,
our mission is to fi-
nalize the blends for
the 2003 red wines
to be bottled in
2005, and so we be-
gin our annual cycle.
As for the 2005 har-                                                   “. . . if you like Pinots that aspire to the condition
vest – believe it or                                                   of Burgundy’s most exalted reds, there are more
not, we have already                                                   wows coming your way. The 2002 Felton Road
started work on this                                                   Pinot Noir, Central Otago, from a booming re-
by making decisions                                                    gion far south of Marlborough on the South Is-
on what cover                                                          land, is the real stuff; a lot of New World Pinots
crops to plant in                                                      seem like Burgundy parodies, but this one seems
our vineyards over                                                     like Burgundy Grand Cru itself. Deep, purple-
the 2004/2005                                                          garnet robe. Compelling nose, with all the mys-
Winter.”                                                               tery of, say, Musigny: ineffable red fruits, hint of
                                                                       fresh linen, backed up by deep reserves of vanilla
Cheers,                                                                and spice. About as rich as an elegant Grand Cru.
Shaun                                                                  . . Lovely teasing flavors, with long hints of ginger-
Richardson,                                                            bread. A bit of silky tannin in the finish–just enough
Winemaker                                                              to chaperone 3-5 years of positive evolution.”
Clos Pegase                                                            David Rosengarten, October 11, 2004, The
October 2004                                                           Rosengarten Report, “Autumn Roundup of Great
                              Early and rare snowfall in 2003
                                  at Clos Pegase Winery                Wines for Food: 28 Terrific Wines at Fair Prices
                                                                       that will bring Joy to your Table.”

                                                                                                          WDQLTD. • 5
“Beginning on July 28 (our earliest
harvest since 1997), Schramsberg
Vineyards brought in 931 tons from
75 vineyards; we finished up on
September 23! Because the growing
season began with an early bud-break
in March, the season ended up being
relatively long and mild, giving the
grapes the time they needed to mature,
and making for some complex, fruit
driven wines.

“Brix readings were an average of 20
degrees throughout the harvest, with
driving crispness on the palate fueled
by an average 12 g/L TA and a 3.04
pH. With over 130 different lots of             Winemaker/Vineyard Manager Craig Roemer, with Hugh Davies and Jamie Davies, anoint-
fantastic wines in the winery, we are           ing the 2004 harvest at the “Blessing of the Grapes” ceremony. The celebration of the
                                                first day of harvest, July 28th, was two-and-a-half weeks earlier than last year. Pinot
well-stocked for blending this winter           Noir grown by Trefethen vineyard was the first brought in. This was Schramsberg’s 40th
and spring.”           Hugh Davies              harvest and one of the earliest on record. (In 1997 harvest began on July 25.)

 1998 J. Schram                                   Schramsberg                                                     San Francisco
  “Spice, ginger, fresh pear and floral notes     “The 2000 Blanc de Blancs, as in Champagne,                 2004 International
  lead to a rich, complex array of flavors,       a wine made exclusively from Chardonnay, is                 Wine Competition
  with yeasty-doughy notes. Turns smooth          one of the best sparkling wines I’ve had from
  and shows extra layers of concentration,                                                                               Rating:
                                                  California. Yeast, smoke, and a touch of vanilla
  with a long, lingering finish.”                 in the nose, followed by an austere palate of me-          GOLD MEDAL
                            91 points             dium weight with lemon zest flavors. . .”                   Schramsberg 2001
                                  11/15/04        Claude Kolm’s THE FINE WINE REVIEW, No. 102                    Blanc de Noirs

                                                                                             “The J.Davies red wine program also
                                                                                             shone this year. 58 total tons (51-
                                                                                             Cabernet Sauvignon/ 2-Malbec/ 3-
                                                                                             Merlot/ 2-Petit Verdot) were harvested
                                                                                             out of both the Schram and
                                                                                             McEachron vineyards in the Diamond
                                                                                             Mountain District. Though the wines
                                                                                             are still finishing their fermentations
                                                                                             and macerations, their juvenile quality
                                                                                             is outstanding, with inky colors, ripe
                                                                                             fruit and great intensity. We are
                                                                                             looking forward to tracking their
                                                                                             maturity in barrels!”
                                                                                                                        Hugh Davies
 6 • WDQLTD.
Royal Tokaji
1995 Mézes Mály
                             ✯✯                          Sweet!                          Royal Tokaji Nyulászó, 1995
                                                                                         1st Growth, Aszú 6 Puttonyos
Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos                      Dessert Wine Pairings:                      “Richer still, almost a touch of
“This has whoppingly high (67                • At L’Auberge de Sedona, Sedona, Ari-      caramel on the nose. Yet on the
grams per liter) dry extract, around         zona, Sommelier Mark Buzan offers 50        palate, because of a higher acidity,
a percent more alcohol and corre-            dessert wines, 28 of them by the glass.     the effect is drier. Marvelously
spondingly less residual sugar than          Among the best sellers is Royal Tokaji      fresh fruit. Real intensity and
its ‘95 stablemates. Blueberry, blue         1996 Tokaji Aszú paired with a Fall         vigour. Very fine.”2005-2020
plum and honey on the nose, with a           Fruit Tart – Tarte de Fruits d’Autone.
faint whiff of burnt sugar. Blueberry,                     Ronn Wiegand MW, MS           Royal Tokaji Szt Tamás, 1995
honey, apricot jam and diverse flowers                             Restaurant Wines      1st Growth, Aszú 6 Puttonyos
in the mouth. Another case of elegance                                                   “Deep bronzed colour. Full, rich and
and delicacy of personality and clear,       • Apple desserts, such as Tarte Tatin,      powerful on the nose. A strong aroma
rarified flavors, in the context of a wine   with Royal Tokaji Birsalmás.                of orange peel. It is still quite closed.
that is in fact extraordinarily dense and                    Sunday London Times         Concentrated on the palate. Splen-
viscous. Terrific length.” 2 stars “sig-                                                 didly balanced. Lots of dimension.
nifies a wine of clearly profound com-       • Six-puttonyos Royal Tokaji Aszú           Excellent grip. Very, very long. Very
plexity, in this instance on a par with      Nyulászó with pear and hazelnut tart        fine plus.”       2005-2025
any of the world’s other greatest sweet      or pumpkin chiffon for a glorious end                   Clive Coates MW, The Vine
wines.”                                      to the Thanksgiving feast.                               No. 214, November 2002
“The Forecast for Tokaj” by David               Gerald Asher, Gourmet, Nov. 2001
                                                                                         M ÁD (H UNGARY ) H ARVEST R EPORT
Schildknecht, International Wine Cel-
                                             • Blue Cheese! but not only blue cheese,    OCTOBER 2004
lar, Issue 98, September/October 2001
                                             as was discovered during a tasting at       This will be short but not sweet:
                                             London’s Paxton & Whitfield,                “Sadly, it seems unlikely that there
                                             cheesemongers to the queen, no less!        will be any 2004 Tokaji Aszú,” says
                                             The best match was a creamy Cashel          Ben Howkins of the Royal Tokaji
  100 Wines to try before you die                                                        Wine Company. General Manager
                                             Blue which accentuates the creamy apri-
ROYAL TOKAJI, STZ.TAMAS                                                                  Istvan Turoczi reports, “There was
                                             cot fruit of Royal Tokaji. Also tangy un-
6 PUTTONYOS 1993                                                                         extremely high rainfall this year,
                                             pasteurized Montgomery Cheddar and
“The incredibly rich, sweet palate                                                       which provided perfect conditions
                                             crumbly old Gouda. (Only chalky
combines smooth, cool, mushroomy                                                         for developing botrytis, but the
                                             goat’s cheese and a pungent Gorgonzola
flavours and zesty, orange marmalade                                                     grapes have not been ripening
                                             were unmatched. Basically, the sweeter
fruit,” says Beverley Blanning MW.                                                       enough. . . We can only produce
                                             the Tokaji, the higher the puttonyos, the
“It is full, with deliciously refresh-                                                   some good quality wine if the
                                             more pungent the cheese can be.)
ing acidity and endless length.”                                                         weather turns to a nice Indian Summer
                                                                                         for the next 3 - 4 weeks. . .”
                             August 2004      Caterer & Hotelkeeper, March/April 2002
                                                                                                               WDQLTD. • 7
                                                               DOMAINE DUJAC

Edna Bronson, PR Coordinator; Jorge
Torres, TempTrol Warehouse Manager;            Jeremy, Alec, Jacques, and Diana – inspecting the winter vines in 2003.
Teresa Lewis, Compliance Specialist
Edna Bronson , PR Coordinator,                  NEWS FROM DOMAINE DUJAC: JACQUES AS MENTOR
handles all press samples, special         Jacques Seysses is now assisted full-   Eighty percent of the domaine’s pro-
events, wine tastings, supplier visits,    time by his son Jeremy, who takes       duction is exported to eighteen
translations, as well as our website       part in all vinifications for the       countries, under the guidance of
up-dates. She is information-central.      domaine and for Dujac Fils et Père.     Rosalind Seysses, Jacques’ wife.
Edna was born in Guatemala, has lived      Diana Snowden, Jeremy’s new bride       Rosalind has been a pillar of the
in Italy & New Zealand and is fluent       (Congratulations Jeremy and             domaine alongside her husband, not
in French, Spanish, Italian, and En-       Diana!) is a UC Davis graduate in       only because of her unflagging work
glish. She has worked as an interpreter    Oenology and has taken over cellar      in public relations, but also for her
and translator; her most memorable         management. The latest to arrive,       support and advice to Jacques over
job was as relief program coordinator      Alec Seysses, is gradually taking on    the years. Behind ever y great
after an earthquake measuring 7.8 in       his father’s administrative duties.     domaine. . . (and now there are two!)
Guatemala. Edna is an avid tennis
player and loves to travel.
Teresa Lewis hails from Cookeville,        DOMAINE DUJAC
Tennessee. She moved to Florida, be-       Morey-St-Denis
came a respiratory therapist, then          “Jacques Seysses, now with the assistance of his son Jeremy, has brought
moved to the Bay Area just in time         this domaine to the top of the Burgundian hierarchy. With the exception of
for the Loma Prieta earthquake. Teresa     the 1991 vintage, because its characteristics did not allow whole cluster
handles all state wine registrations and   vinification and because a ‘rule is made to be broken’, all wines have
reports, licensing and compliance for      been made with grapes that were not de-stemmed to ‘be in keeping with
WDL. She kayaks on the Napa River          the spirit of the great burgundies of the turn of the century’. To this,
sloughs and Tamales Bay, and likes to      add formidable work in the vineyards and, for the last three vintages,
read The New Yorker.                       maturing ‘sur lies’ and slow malolactic fermentations, for better
Jorge Torres manages our ware-             management of sulphur.”
house of over 500 wines & spirits. He
                                           DOMAINE DUJAC Clos Saint Denis 2002
has two sons and coaches their cham-
                                           “A brilliant wine of sublime freshness and unique grace. In the mouth the
pion soccer team. Jorge was born in
                                           touch is magnificent with precision and care. Very pure, upright and long.”
Guadalajara, Mexico, and came to CA
in 1987. He met his lovely wife at an                                         LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, APRIL 2004
ESL class at Napa Valley College.
 8 • WDQLTD.
  Rob Fisher joins the Fisher
       family winery team
RCF Vineyard Merlot, named after
Fred and Juelle’s son, Robert Charles
Fisher, has been an integral part of
the Fisher Vineyards wine portfolio
since 1991. As of July 2004, son
Robert joined his family winery in
more than just name. After graduat-
ing from Duke University with a BS
in Economics, Rob worked on Wall
Street as a corporate financial advi-      Father Hugh Stevenson blesses the grapes with Fred Fisher at the annual Harvest
sor focused on mergers, acquisitions       Blessing Celebration and guest luncheon on Labor Day, 2004, at Fisher Vineyards.

                                                                                       Cameron Fisher, youngest daughter
                                                                                       and recent graduate of Colby
                                                                                       College in Water ville, Maine,
                                                                                       has (finally!) her own epony-
                                                                                       mous wine: CAMERON 2002
                                                                                       Napa Valley is a blend of 35%
                                                                                       Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot,
                                                                                       19% Cabernet Franc and 11%
                                                                                       Malbec. The wines were whole berry
                                                                                       fermented in open-top fermenters
                                                                                       and allowed to go through malolac-
                                                                                       tic fermentation in barrel (80% new
                                                                                       French oak). Unfined and unfiltered,
                                                                                       fresh and exuberant as its namesake,
                                                                                       CAMERON was introduced this
                                                                                       Fall after 20 months in barrel. (She
                                                                                       really looks good after all that time
                                                       Cameron Fisher                  in a barrel, doesn’t she?)
        Robert Charles Fisher              “The 2002 Merlot RCF Vineyard pos-
                                                                                                      Where’s the Coach
and financial restructurings. Having       sesses the sweetest fruit, ripest tannin,
                                                                                                      Insignia Chardonnay?
returned home from New York to             and more body, fat, and flesh. . . It
work as a partner in the family busi-      should drink well for 5-7 years.”            In 2002 Fisher Vineyards took a giant
ness, Rob is gaining experience in all                                                  step towards their ultimate goal of
aspects of wine production and busi-       “The fragrant 2001 Cabernet                  becoming 100% estate grown. This
ness management, from the vineyards        Sauvignon Coach Insignia (which              required, unfortunately, the end of an
through marketing presentations            included Malbec, Merlot and                  era, the demise of a label, at least until
around the country. Says Rob of his        Cabernet Franc in the final blend)           further notice. The Coach Insignia
first several months back on the           exhibits up-front, sweet, tobacco-           Chardonnay will be replaced in 2003
mountain estate, “I am so enjoying         tinged black currant fruit, medium           with a new Mountain Estate
the opportunity to work with my            body, and fine purity, ripeness, and         Chardonnay from newly planted hill-
family at the winery... I have experi-     balance.” Robert M. Parker, Jr., The         side vineyards, a Dijon clone, all es-
enced little else that is as rewarding.”   Wine Advocate, Issue 150, 12-23-03           tate-grown fruit. So, stay tuned!
                                                                                                               WDQLTD. • 9
                                                                                                                              Photograph by Yves Randon
       Harvest crew 2004 at Domaine Leflaive – A joyous time at the domaine, especially when the weather is fine!

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE                                                                   CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET, 2001
                                                                                   (At its prime: 2007-2020)
The Greatest Domaine
                                                                                   “Medium colour. Refined, much more
in Puligny-Montrachet                                                              developed than the 2002 on the nose.
“In 1991 a curious anomaly was                                                     Lighter, of course, but no lack of fruit
                                             Puligny-Montrachet                    and depth. Ripe. Medium to medium-
rectified. It seemed hardly credi-
                                                     Since 1735                    full body. Balanced and stylish. A lot
ble, given that the 8-plus hectares
are divided between 15 different        four other local grands crus and           of dimension and personality for a
proprietors, that not a single Le       four of the best premiers crus, and        2001. Lovely finish. Very fine for the
Montrachet vine should belong to        a total of 22 hectares in all. . .”        vintage.”
a domaine based in Puligny. The                 excerpts from Clive Coates MW      CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET, 2000
Domaine Leflaive, like others I                 The Vine, No. 234, July 2004       (At its prime: 2010-2025)
imagine, had at times been in the
                                                                                   “Medium colour. Very lovely
market when a sale was in the off-
                                        CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET, 2002                 nose. Still youthful. A marvel-
ing but had hitherto been put off
                                        (At its prime: 2010-2025)                  ous combination of white
by high prices. Then this year they     “Medium colour. Still very young.          peaches, flowers and a gentle
acquired two ouvrées, enough to         Rich, full, abundant and quite pow-        touch of oak. Fullish bodied.
fill one rather over-sized new cask     erful on the nose. Full body. Lots of      Vigorous. Very well balanced
they had specially made. It was a       depth. Slightly shaken up because it       and concentrated. Pure. Pro-
fitting complement to one of the        had recently been fined. But lots of       found. This is very fine in-
greatest white wine domaines in         substance on the follow-though. Very
Burgundy, one which could boast         fine grip. Lots of classy fruit. Very            excerpts from Clive Coates MW
substantial parcels in three of the     promising. Very fine for the vintage.”              The Vine, No. 234, July 2004
10 • WDQLTD.
Domaine Pierre Morey & Morey-Blanc

          2004 Harvest at Domaine Pierre Morey and Morey-Blanc, here at “Les Tessons” vineyard overlooking Meursault.
          “Le panier” is the basket or pannier for picking; “la hotte à vendanges” is the hod or back-basket in which the grape
          clusters are gently poured, then transferred to bins, up-ended in a near headstand.

Domaine Pierre Morey                                                                    Morey-Blanc
“2002 Meursault Tessons: More              and that the ‘85 is too young ‘from          “2002 Meursault Genevières: Cap-
complex but less fruity on the nose        an aromatic point of view.’ 93 (+?)”         tivating nose combines lime, miner-
than the basic village offering, show-     “2002 Bâtard-Montrachet (Morey’s             als and white flowers. Sweet, dense
ing oatmeal, nuts and spicy oak.           parcel is at the summit of this vine-        and silky, with excellent flavor defi-
Fatter and richer but more backward.       yard, adjacent to Le Montrachet):            nition and delicacy. Ripe but dry.
This shows more minerality and acid        Rather Montrachet-like aromas of             Finishes very long and young. But
spine than the village wine but less       lime, menthol, iodine, roasted nuts,         Morey’s domain Meursault Perrières
early sweetness. I’d give this a good      clove and marzipan. Super-concen-            is even longer and more minerally,
four or five years of cellaring. 89(+?)”   trated but very tightly wound.               and will probably age longer. 92(+?).
“2002 Meursault Perrières (from            Denser than the Perrières, but strong        2002 Corton-Charlemagne: Pristine
vines planted in 1960 and 1976 on          acids give this wine terrific energy as      aromas of apple, lemon ice, lime,
very thin soil): Pure, complex, vi-        well. Shows strong oak notes of nuts         mint and white flowers. Steely, pen-
brant nose combines dried fruits,          and vanilla on the back end. This            etrating and extremely backward,
minerals, gunflint and brioche.            mounts slowly and lingers impres-            with pungent citric flavors that are
Dense, very intensely flavored and         sively, showing a distinct stony char-       quite clenched, even painful today.
penetrating, with terrific acidity and     acter. Like the Perrières, this power-       Very young and steely wine, show-
cut. A powerful, stony wine with           ful wine really calls for a decade of        ing the tart side of 2002. But very
superb lift in the mouth and a rare        patience. 93 (+?)”                           long on the finish. This will obvi-
lightness of touch. Very long and                                                       ously require considerable aging. . .
pure on the aftertaste. Morey says                                                      Classic Corton-Charlemagne, the
to forget this bottle for ten years.                                                    white Burgundy with the structure
He’s drinking the ‘89 and ‘86 now,                                                      of a red. . . 91 (+?)”
but says that the ‘90 isn’t ready yet        Issue 116, September/October 2004                        Stephen Tanzer, Issue 116
                                                                                                              WDQLTD. • 11
Autumn in McLaren Vale was Winter/Spring in the northern hemi-
sphere, so Wirra Wirra’s superlative 2004 harvest is now resting peace-
fully in barrel and bottle. Winemaker Samantha Connew sends this
vintage report:
“A wet winter ensured that the vines were not limited by the previous
two years’ drought conditions. Budburst was even, followed by perfect
conditions for fruitset, and the development of well balanced canopies.
Apart from a hot week in February, summer was more temperate than
in most years. We started taking in whites in the middle of February,
with harvesting of reds following about the middle of March. It turned
out to be a big vintage, with berries of most varieties weighing about
30% more than usual.

“At this stage, most of the 2004 whites have already been bottled,
with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc looking like standouts, while
the reds have all just about been racked following malolactic
fermentation. At this point, it looks like another strong showing
by Shiraz. All too quickly, we are now looking ahead to another
vintage just around the corner, as most of the vines in the area are       Craig Hill, Wirra Wirra’s Maintenance Manager, is
well through budburst.”            Samantha Connew, Winemaker              very skilled in all areas, including plunging the cap
                                                                           on the open fermenters.

                       Pushing the “old and amiably eccentric” basket press at Wirra Wirra Vineyards

12 • WDQLTD.
      Montage ~ Laguna, CA
        Aurora ~ Dallas, TX
    Frisson ~ San Francisco, CA
    The Little Nel ~ Aspen, CO
         Joels ~ Atlanta, GA
     Mandarin Oriental Hotel:
   City Zen ~ Washington, D.C.
 Four Seasons Hotel ~ Boston, MA
Hard Rock Cafe ~ Miami Beach, FL
   Tru Restaurant ~ Chicago, IL
   Charlie Trotters ~ Chicago, IL

94 Salon 1995 Champagne
Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil
“A golden essence of chardonnay,
this wine trumpets all its fleshy fruit
in a structured mouthful of flavor,
then turns brisk toward a salty min-
eral tone. The pure chardonnay fla-
vor lasts with that limestone
minerality, a dynamite taste that lasts
                                            “Stephen Brook takes a closer          blender. What comes in from the vine-
for minutes after each sip. . . Salon is
                                           look at Salon, the almost mythical      yards and passes through the presses is
built for long-term aging; this will
                                           Champagne house with a loyal fol-       Salon – nothing can be added. Since
need another decade before it begins
                                           lowing among those in the know”         the 1970s, the wine has been fer-
to show its best. . .”
                       December 2003                                               mented in steel. There is no malolac-
                                           “Salon is a Champagne that breaks       tic fermentation and no use of reserve
                                           the rules. Almost all Champagne is      wines. The dosage never exceeds 8g
                                           blended from different vineyards in     to ensure the typicity of Salon is not
                                           different villages – Salon uses only    masked by sugar. . .
Salon 1995                                 grapes from the village of Mesnil                “The wines of the Mesnil are
94 points.                                 along the Côte de Blancs. All other     marked by high acidity, and none
“Tightly wound, this is marked by its      Champagne houses produce both           more so than Salon. Consequently,
bracing acidity, which keeps the flavors   non-vintage and vintage wines –         it needs time to age. This process
from loosening their grip. Finely          Salon produces nothing other than       varies from vintage to vintage, but in
wrought, there are glimpse of coffee,      vintage. And Salon is a blanc de        general a bottle of Salon is aged from
citrus candy and grilled hazelnuts, but    blancs, made solely from Chardon-       8–12 years before release. . .”
they require more time to emerge. A        nay. This alone is not remarkable,      TASTING NOTES:
few years aging on the cork should         but taken in combination with its
help. Firm, tactile finish. Best from      other distinguishing characteristics,
                                                                                   1995      ★★★★★
2006 through 2020.”                        it makes Salon a unique product.        “Rich, powerful Chardonnay nose.
                      Bruce Sanderson      And rare, with only 34 vintages re-     Has depth and good acidic bite, al-
                       Nov. 15, 2004       leased since 1911. . .                  most bitter with mineral extract.
                                                    “To produce Salon is an act    Excellent length, chewy finish.”
                                           of courage, since by definition it is
                                           never subjected to the art of the                                 October 2004
                                                                                                        WDQLTD. • 13
            2000 Red Wine                          91
            Howell Mountain, Napa Valley                                                           BURGESS CELLARS
            “Bright ruby hue. Warm, minty aromas of
            raspberry, chocolate, tobacco and forest floor.
                                                                                                   10-YEAR LIBRARY
            Creamy flavors of cherry, orange peel, mo-                                             RELEASE PROGRAM
              cha, vanillin oak and dried leaves. . .”

                                             June/July 2004
                                                                A 10 1993 Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon
                                                                        years in dark, cool Howell Mountain cellars,

                                                                  has emerged, ready for a feast. This is one dancing
                     ILONA 2001                                   bear to invite to your saturnalia. The flavors are ripe,
                     HOWELL MOUNTAIN                              intense, melded together in a balanced, harmonious style.
                     NAPA VALLEY                                            1993 was a year with very warm summer days;
                                                                  harvest began nearly two weeks earlier than normal. Tom
                     Some of the most powerful, intense
                                                                  Burgess’ mountain-grown fruit offers richness and com-
                     “boutique” red wines out of California
                                                                  plexity. There are layers of aromas from the blend of
                     come from the remote Howell
                                                                  Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, along
                     Mountain area, situated in the north
                                                                  with complementary French oak. The special 10-year re-
                     eastern hills of Napa Valley. Located
                                                                  lease of Burgess Cellars Vintage Selection Cabernets shows
                     near the middle of the Howell
                                                                  the aging potential of these Howell Mountain beauties and
                     Mountain AVA is a vineyard of just
                                                                  the splendor of a Cabernet that’s actually ready to drink!
                     10 acres with very little slope, nestled
                     meadow-like on this otherwise rugged
                     mountain.                                           2004 HARVEST REPORT FROM TOM BURGESS

                     It is from this vineyard (planted to       H andthis yearus. Because weearlyafor all Napavineyard,win-
                                                                 eries   also for
                                                                                  was generally
                                                                                                are mountain
                     Merlot, along with grapes from the           dates of harvest aren’t as meaningful. We hand-harvested our
                     Cabernet family) that Ilona was              vineyards a week to ten days earlier than normal. Even though
born. The Ilona Vineyard sits at an altitude of 1800              it was early, we had the normal amount of hang time because
feet and is comprised mostly of compacted volcanic ash            the entire growing season was shifted forward by a warmer
called “tufa rock”, which provides an extremely stressed          than normal March. We had lower tonnage but full and com-
environment for the grapes. At that altitude, temperatures        plete maturity of fruit, ripe flavors and rich components.
in the vineyard remain cool in the spring, retarding bud-                   One of the unique aspects of our Cabernet vine-
break. However, in the summer the nights are actually             yards is that they are over 25 years old, which gives us a
warmer than the valley floor, so the growing time is              very high level of consistency and complexity from these
recovered, and the harvest is just a few weeks later than         “old vines.” It is rare to have mature Cabernet vineyards
the valley below. This is a benefit, as the lengthened “hang      on a Napa mountainside.
time” adds greatly to the layers of flavors and aromas in                   We’re one of comparatively few Napa Valley
the resulting wine.
                                                                  wineries to use rotary fermenters. We’ve done this with
                                                                  all of our red wines since 1996. It’s beneficial for moun-
Ilona has a deep garnet hue, a complex aroma of spice,
                                                                  tain vineyards, so you can get all the positive extrac-
black cherries and a balanced level of vanilla, due to its
aging in French oak barrels for 18 months. The 2001               tions you desire regarding color, aroma and flavors; then
vintage was an early and excellent harvest. This was              when the characteristically high mountain grapes start
extremely noticeable in the Howell Mountain                       releasing their tannins, you can remove the wine from
appellation. The grapes achieved full maturity and were           the solids at a correct tannin level; you don’t have to
picked at the beginning of October. The crop yields               tannin-fine later on in the winery. The result is a nice
were a little less than normal which will add to the overall      soft mouth-feel, where the tannins are lush and ap-
concentration and complexity of this vintage. Only 800            proachable, even though they still show the structure
cases of the 2001 Ilona were produced.                            of their mountain vineyard origins.
14 • WDQLTD.
                                                               rack them to barrels for barrel fermentation, hence we
                                                               weren’t able to free up much needed tank space. This
                                                               situation was typical of the whole Paso Robles wine re-
                                                               gion and caused most of the area’s wineries, including
                                                               EOS, to be packed to the gills for a couple of very
                                                               intense weeks.

                                                               “We had a very early bud break this year and were hop-
                                                               ing for a record setting long growing season that brings
                                                               with it the slow ripening that results in intense fruit
                                                               with true varietal character. Although harvest started
                                                               two weeks early, because of the early bud break we expe-
                                                               rienced, we still enjoyed a nice long growing season and
2004 HARVEST REPORT                   by Leslie Melendez
                                                               the fruit that is already in house is showing beautiful
EOS ESTATE WINERY:                                             citrus and floral aromas in the whites and intense berry
“We began harvesting Chardonnay on August 23, about            characteristics in the reds.
two weeks earlier than normal. Harvest came fast and
furious this year, driven by a prolonged August heat spell.    “About half of our reds are still hanging in the vine-
All of our whites were brought into the winery in a            yards, and we are enjoying warm but cooler weather and
period of only five days, whereas in a normal harvest          are hoping to complete this harvest with very long hang
year it would take three weeks.                                times for the varietals still in the vineyards, consisting
                                                               of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and
“We would normally have a break of at least two weeks          Petite Sirah.”
before bringing in the reds, but this season Zinfandel
and Petite Sirah came in six days after the whites,            Leslie Melendez, Senior Winemaker
leaving us little time to process our white wines and          EOS Estate Winery, September 25, 2004

                                                                                               EOS Estate 2002 Cupa
                                                                                               Grandis Chardonnay, Grand
                                                                                               Barrel Reserve, Brothers
                                                                                               Ranch, Paso Robles

                                                                                                “Deep gold hue. Rich,
                                                                                                buttery aromas of grilled
                                                                                                pineapple, banana, hon-
                                                                                                ey, clove and a light oak
                                                                                                note. Balanced, juicy fla-
                                                                                                vors of white peach, pear,
                                                                                                pineapple and butter-
                                                                                                scotch. Well-integrated
                                                                                                oak in the soft close.”
                                                                                                91 points
                                                                                                          June/July 2004

        Cupa Grandis is the top of the line from EOS, fermented and aged in French oak.

                                                                                                        WDQLTD. • 15
                           HdV HARVEST at HYDE VINEYARD, CARNEROS
HdV Syrah 2002
92 points
“A dense, rich yet elegantly styled
wine with layers of tobacco leaf, beef
carpaccio, white pepper, wild berry,
raspberry and plum, holding a sharp
focus and finishing with a long, per-
sistent finish that gains complexity
and nuance, and has just the right
mix of tannins and acidity. Drink
now through 2010.”
                           May 15, 2004

                                                    Blessing of the grapes with Father Brady, Jose Padilla, vineyard manager,
                                               Christopher Hyde and his father, Larry Hyde, on the first day of harvest, August 20, 2004
12 BEST CARNEROS                                                                        ___

(from Wine Country Living’s blind tasting of
41 Carneros-grown Chardonnays.)
2002 HdV    93 POINTS
“Elegant, sleek in style, with lively fruit
flavors and appetizing acidity equally
matched by a rich texture and lingering
finish. Subtle and seductive, it keeps
bringing you back for another sip.”
                              August 2004

                                                      Rick Hyde and Stéphane Vivier, HdV winemaker, discard the leaves
                                                      and dried berries from the hand-picked Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay.

    Beta Hyde sorts the HdV Chardonnay harvest in the cool, early morning hours. Harvest begins at daybreak in Carneros.

16 • WDQLTD.
                                            Perry Butler, proprietor of Juslyn Vineyards, is justly pleased with his 2004 Estate
         Juslyn 2000 Napa Valley                                  Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon harvest.
92        Vineyard Select
          Cabernet Sauvignon
                                           Juslyn Cabernet Sauvignon,                  tannin is moderately high, but the
                                                                                       wine possesses the fruit and depth to
                                           2001 Vineyard Select:
“Perry and Carolyn Butler’s 42-acre                                                    support them. Anticipated maturity:
                                           “A blend of 82% Cabernet
estate on Spring Mountain . . . Craig                                                  2007-2016.”                    89-91
                                           Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and 9%
MacLean makes the wines, blending
                                           Cabernet Franc, the elegant 2001            2001 Juslyn Napa Valley
fruit from the estate with grapes from     Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Select
Beckstoffer ToKalon, George III and                                                    “The 2001 Napa Blend Proprietary Red
                                           comes across as a stylish Bordeaux,         Wine (53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44%
Crane. Their 2000 is tight and so-         with notes of tobacco leaf, licorice,       Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc)
phisticated when first poured; it          cedar, and black currants. Medium           exhibits aromas of Asian spices, cedar,
could be the West Coast equivalent of      to full-bodied with a sweet attack,         dried herbs, and red as well as black
a Graves, here giving a sense of gravel    ripe fruit, and a long, moderately          currants in an open-knit, nicely textured,
and sagebrush. It feels narrow in scope,   tannic finish, this beauty has the          lush style. Medium-bodied and cleanly
yet satisfying and generous. Tasted a      potential to be outstanding if it gets      made, it is best drunk during its first
day later, the wine has developed the      into the bottle without too much            7-8 years of life.”                 87-89
beauty of its form with air, the flavor    clarification. It should drink well for
luscious as a fresh plum, the texture      10-12 years.”                   89-91       Robert M. Parker, Jr.,The Wine
elegant. A lovely, gentle side of Napa                                                 Advocate, Issue 150, Dec. 23, 2003
                                           2001 Juslyn Estate
Cabernet, built for the cellar.”           Cabernet Sauvignon
                                           Spring Mountain:

91       Juslyn 2000
         Napa Valley Red
“An elegant blend of cabernet
                                           “The promising 2001
                                           Cabernet Sauvignon Spring
                                           Mountain (only 235 cases
sauvignon, franc and merlot, this          produced) boasts a deep
seems to emphasize the franc in green      ruby/purple color along
herb scents and fine tannin. The fruit     with aromas of black
component is full and forest green         currants, cherries, earth,
in tone, finishing off with a dense        and underbrush, medium
black spice. Let this evolve for a year    to full body, and lovely
or two in the cellar. .” August 2004       purity, ripeness, and finesse.
                                           Sweet smoky oak i s
                                           present, but it is kept in
                                                                             Craig MacLean, winemaker for Juslyn Vineyards
                                           the background. The
                                                                                                              WDQLTD. • 17
“One of the Best Harvests Ever!”                                                     As Grant Burge has a number of his
       – Vintage 2004 –                                                              own vineyards with different varietals
          by Chris Crago                                                             and old vines, some up to 100 years
                                                                                     old, the grapes from these vineyards
We began harvesting on February 16
                                                                                     are handpicked. Premium Semillon,
with Semillon from the Zerk vine-
                                                                                     Chardonnay, Frontignac and Pinot
yard of the Barossa Valley. Red grape
                                           “As weather conditions were so            Noir, Shiraz and bushvine Grenache
harvest began a week later with our
                                           favourable, 2004 was an above aver-       are handpicked to ensure berries are
Filsell Shiraz and was completed by
                                           age vintage, especially for our           delivered to the winery in perfect
May 11. Because of a warm spell
                                           Riesling and red varieties,” said Grant   condition.
during February, the red grape har-
                                           Burge. “The growing season started
vest was a week earlier than last year                                               The white varietals are often picked
                                           with a good fruit-set in spring, which
and a week longer, due to a cooler                                                   in the cool of the night to minimise
                                           indicated high yields in some vine-
March and a larger crop.                                                             oxidation, then transported straight
                                           yards, with vines of concern under-
                                                                                     to the winery for crushing. Fruit is
In Australia, “harvest” is known as        going bunch thinning during January       picked directly into separate crushing
“vintage”, and Grant Burge Wines           and February to ensure concentration      bins to prevent double handling and
hosts a pre-vintage barbeque in true       and intensity of colour and flavour       berry damage. White grapes are usu-
Aussie style, so full-time employees       into fewer berries.”                      ally crushed directly into a bag press
can catch up with old friends, and                                                   through a chiller set at 5°C, and free
meet the new casual workers who                                                      run juice is kept separate from
will be working the harvest.                                                         pressings. This separate cut is some-
                                                                                     times used later in sweet white
The Barossa is also steeped in a tra-                                                fortifieds or as a yeast base culture.
dition dating back to the early days
of German settlement, in which the                                                   Red grape ferments are usually
                                                                                     crushed, then pumped over up to
beginning of vintage is declared with
                                                                                     three times a day, racked and re-
a traditional harvest blessing ceremony.
                                                                                     turned every second day, with pump
Here “Barons of the Barossa”, local
                                                                                     overs often reduced daily over a six-
winemakers and growers, join visitors                                                day fermentation period.
and the community to celebrate the
picking of the first grapes. Grant                                                   Grant Burge can always select “the
Burge, himself a Baron of the Barossa,                                               best of the best” of his harvest, as he
is heavily involved in this “Declaration                                             ferments each wine in small portions,
of Vintage”. (Grant has named                                                        even from the same vineyard.
many of his individual vineyards in                                                  Particular batches of ultra premium
honour of the early settlers and their                                               Shiraz, Grenache, Mouvedre and
traditions.)                                                                         Cabernet Sauvignon are chosen for
                                           Mick Shrapel, Vineyard Manager, checks    extended maceration, and grapes are
                                           Shiraz clusters in the Filsell Vineyard   left on their skins for up to 30 days,
Semillon, Chardonnay and Fron-
                                           during the “vintage” in Barossa.
tignac were picked in February, then                                                 usually racked and returned twice a
in March, Sauvignon Blanc,                                                           day, then the juice is drained and
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Viognier.         “A mild January was fantastic for op-     skins pressed.
The reds were being harvested simul-       timal fruit colour, flavour develop-      Temperatures for red ferments
taneously, starting with Shiraz in late    ment and fruit quality, and produced      usually reach 28°C to build
February, through to the end of            good yields of Semillon, Sauvignon        immediate yeast cells and to extract
April, and Merlot midway through           Blanc and Chardonnay. Cabernet            maximum colour, tannins and flavour.
March, followed by Cabernet                Sauvignon, Grenache, and Shiraz also      After a day or two, temperatures are
Sauvignon, Grenache and Mourvedre          produced good yields, with excellent      lowered to around 22°C for more even
harvested from late April to May.          quality fruit,” reports Grant.            control of yeast fermentation. Bag
18 • WDQLTD.
      – Vintage 2004 –
    (cont. from previous page)

presses are used for the delicate
extraction of remaining wine skins,
and to discard the harsh tannins.

With round the clock checking,
picking, crushing, tasting and
                                            Grant Burge sorts the harvest of near-century-old Shiraz in his Filsell Vineyard, one
blending – a solid three month vintage                       of the most respected vineyards in the Barossa.
in the Barossa is a hard and testing
time for all, demanding quick, precise
decisions, a lot of physical labour, with
little sleep in between.                                                                         “. . . you can understand
                                                                                        how Grant Burge Wines has become
Each year, at the end of harvest,                                                       so newsworthy in the financial pages
Grant Burge hosts an afternoon get                                                      as well as the wine press. It is, after
together. This year, all winery staff                                                   all, one of the biggest, most profit-
gathered in the front garden of                                                         able and highly regarded private
Illaparra Winery where Sales and                                                        wine companies in Australia. Its as-
Marketing served up a luncheon,             The Holy Trinity 2000                       sets include over 400ha (hectares) of
and everyone could unwind and               Grant Burge Wines - 37% Grenache,           prime Barossa Valley vineyards and
share their memories of one of the          36% Shiraz, 27% Mourvèdre -                 some superb brands. These range
best vintages ever for Grant Burge          Gold Medal Winner                           from the commercial Barossa Vines
Wines and the Barossa Valley.               San Francisco International Wine            to the premium Single Vineyard
                                            Competition 2004                            Range and its cult-like trio of
                                                                                        Meshach, Shadrach and The Holy
                                                                                        Trinity. Not only that, but it pro-
                                                                                        duces over 400,000 cases per annum
                                                                                        and has won virtually every Austra-
                                                                                        lian medal you care to name. . .
                                                                                                 “‘There’s no question that
                                                                                        one of the great strengths of the
                                                                                        Barossa is its old vineyards,’ says
                                                                                        Burge, who has certainly got more
                                                                                        than his fair share. ‘For instance, we
                                                                                        have 2ha of Shiraz planted in 1886;
                                                                                        4ha in 1890; 10ha in the early 1990s
                                                                                        and some in the 1920s.’”
                                                                                                 Excerpt from “Strictly Private,”
                                                                                           Decanter Interview with Grant Burge
              Grant Burge tests the wines in his open-top fermenters.                       by John Stimpfig, September 2004

                                                                                                              WDQLTD. • 19
“Old name, new quality:
Girard Winery label is in new hands; the wines are better”
                                                                                      2002 Girard Petite Sirah * * * * 1/2
                                          Pine Ridge, Atlas Peak, Robert Pepi         “In the 1960s petite sirah was one
                                          and Lokoya, among others) they began        of the most widely planted grapes in
                                          making wine from purchased grapes.          California . . . Petite sirah can be
                                                                                      harsh, tannic, not user-friendly. But
                                          “And frankly the wines began to             the 2002 Girard is almost a
                                          outshine the original Girard products.      throwback to gentler times. It’s
By MICHAEL LONSFORD                                                                   redolent with blueberry fruit, with
Houston Chronicle                         “Today the Girard Winery makes              hints of coffee, chocolate and
September 13, 2004                        several wines, including a really nice,     tobacco. It’s fairly generous and
                                          slightly oaked sauvignon blanc, as well     really needs specific foods to match
“On the old Dragnet radio program,        as a fairly oaky chardonnay, sturdy         it with: venison, for sure, maybe
it was the announcer’s opening line:      cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, a       duck, aggressive cheeses, too.
‘The story you are about to hear is       nice, not overblown zinfandel, an
true. Only the names have been            excellent petite sirah and a red Bordeaux   “True story: After sitting in a glass
changed to protect the innocent.’         blend . . . Napa Valley Red.                for 24 hours, the wine stained the
                                                                                      glass blue. The stain remains.”
“Well, the following wine story is        “The Girard wines are relative bargains
true — only in this case, the name        these days, when even the most              2000 Girard Napa Valley Red * * * *
wasn’t changed.                           mediocre Napa cabernets command             “is a fairly well-balanced blend of
                                          prices well above $50 a bottle.             half cabernet sauvignon, a fourth
“The Girard family vineyard in the                                                    cabernet franc, and the rest merlot
heart of the Napa Valley sold grapes      “Bottom line: Steve Girard and              and malbec, all from Napa. It has
for several years. Finally in 1980, the   family are happily ensconced in             good fruit, and it shames so many
motorcycle-loving Steve Girard Jr.        Oregon, while wine aficionados can          of its Napa neighbors’ ‘meritage’
built a winery and began making           buy the “new” Girard wines from             blends at twice the price.”
wines. The winery made solid wines,       Napa with confidence.
and it prospered.                                                                     2002 Girard Zinfandel * * * *
                                          “Looks like everybody won this              “well-balanced, not aggressively
“Later Girard would become                time around.”                               tannic nor thick and sweet; nice.”
enamored of Oregon grapes, setting up
a winery there, Benton-Lane, and
dividing his time and energies between
the two operations. Finally in 1996 he
made the move to Oregon complete,
selling his Napa Valley winery to
Aspen businessman Leslie Rudd.

“Enter Pat Roney. He got into the
wine business as sommelier at
Chicago’s famous Pump Room. Later
he moved home to California and
eventually became president of the
Chateau St. Jean Winery in Sonoma

“But four years ago he bought the
                                          25% Cabernet Franc from Oakville gives a blueberry touch to the Napa Valley Red
Girard name and with winemaker            from Girard. Blackberry, currant and black cherry flavors dominate from the balance
Marco DiGiulio (who had worked at         of the blend: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and 10% Malbec.

20 • WDQLTD.

W      e are really lucky in France to
get temperature variations. In con-
sequence, each vintage is different,
our work is never the same to reach
our style. It is necessary to be al-
ways next to the vine, and patiently
follow its evolution.

After 2003, the year of all excess and
facility, we have before us a normal
year. As the saying goes : “Les années
se suivent mais ne se ressemblent pas !”
                                                Domaine des Perrières, Costières de Nîmes, Southern Rhône Valley.
2004 is a vintage the way I like           Storm in August, earlier than ex-      in the vineyard by the team, plus
them : unexpected !                        pected and hail destroyed 30% of       another selection on the table at
                                           the grapes on 6 hectares. Leaves       the cellar.
The prune was short, with one bud,         are mushed; fortunately the wind
done in January at a temperature of        helps the grapes to dry rapidly and    The result is interesting: The yields
10-12°C. We always start pruning           avoid the rot that might destroy       are 24 hl/ha, lower yields than usual,
when days become longer, to avoid the      the future harvest.                    with intense colour.
sap back.
                                                                                  The stalks are taken off to remove
The budbreak was rather late, around                                              the plant matter with too much tan-
the 24th April, the last day of rain! To                                          nin. After maceration of 12 days and
follow, cold nights and warm days                                                 light pumping-over, we rack off; we
during May. The blossom starts with                                               do not use the press juice.
the Grenache, then Syrah, Mourvèdre
and Carignan.                                                                     At this point, sugars are all fer-
                                                                                  mented, the wine has 12.9 and the
It is one of the most important times:                                            malolactic fermentation should start
We expect a mild weather with sun,                                                soon. Then the wine will age in
                                           Despite these different events, we
but the Mistral (North wind) blew and                                             barriques for one year.
                                           are confident, the maturation is
finally we had lots of flower “shatter”,
                                           slow, the nights from August are       In fact our vinification is simple: We
about 30%.
                                           fresh, we will get an aromatic de-     do not look for overextraction but
In July, very high temperatures.           velopment more intense with more       more finesse, light tannins.
The vines catch up from the de-            finesse.
lay, day after day we see the ber-                                                The result is interesting, the yields
                                           We began harvesting on 4 th Sep-       are 24 hl/ha, lower yields than usual,
ries getting bigger.
                                           tember til 9 th September (15 days     with intense colour. Grenache has
Three months of a drought weather,         later than last year) with Grenache    got nice fruit; Mourvèdre is spicy
the leaves are still green and very        at 13.5° potential alcohol. Then       and intense, it will be used for the
healthy, at this point we can see the      Syrah with 12.8°and Mourvèdre          first time in the cuvée Perrières.
effect of the biodynamic preparations      and Carignan with the same po-
on the vineyard.                           tential, with very strict selection      Marc & Emmanuelle Kreydenweiss

                                                                                                      WDQLTD. • 21
Marc &

• A dry winter in                                                                   SPURRIER’S CHOICE
03/04, astonishing                                                                  BEST OLD WORLD WHITE
for Alsace.                                                                         • Domaine de Triennes, Viognier
                               Marc Kreydenweiss, biodynamic viticuturalist
                                                                                    “This estate, managed by Jacques
• March was particulary hot and the        • September: changing situation, since   Seysses and Aubert de Villaine, is now
sap runs early.                            the beginning of September the           producing excellent wines true to their
                                           sun shines with high temperatures,       Provençal roots. With its floral aromas,
• Budbreak : last day of April, the soil
                                           ideal for a slow maturation of the       seductively rich white peach fruit
is hard and dry.
                                           grapes and development of dense          backed by a balancing acidity, this wine
• First rain on the 25th of May with       aromas. The grapes taste of the          is as good as many from the Condrieu
cooler weather. All the different          flower, ver y concentrated and           vineyards.”
biodynamic “préparats” have been done      delicious at this point.
in good conditions.                                                                                              July 2004
                                           • We start picking on October 7th with
• Flowering starts on the 12th of June     the Pinot Gris and the Pinot Blanc.      Triennes Viognier
with hot days (27°C) and still cool        We will be busy for three weeks.         Sainte Fleur 2003
nights (14°C)                                                                       “Superb. From the color with light
                                           • This vintage apparently resembles
                                           the 1999.                                gold reflections, to the intense nose
• July was pleasant, a nice summer
                                                                                    liberating notes characteristic of
• August : rain and cold wind, soils       • A sentence on Marc’s philosophy:       dried apricots and white flowers, to
are saturated with water. We stop          “The creation of a great wine is the     the mouth with its formidable con-
plowing to let the grass grow and          spirit’s victory over dense matter.”     centration sustained by aromas of
soak up the water.                                                                  grilled dry fruits and fruit comfit.
                                                                                    As a bonus, beautiful length. This
                                                                                    bottle will be perfectly placed with
                                                                                    great fish in sauce or with sweet and
                                                                                    sour cuisine.”
                                                                                         LE GUIDE HACHETTE
                                                                                           DES VINS 2005

          September flowers at Domaine Kreydenweiss, Andlau, Alsace

22 • WDQLTD.
                                         Dick and Nancy Ponzi, with second-generation winemaker Luisa Ponzi and
                                         marketing director Maria Ponzi, enjoyed the elegant, traditional salmon bake
                                         with Wilson Daniels representatives Jamie Adams and Rik Steere at the Oregon
                                         Pinot Conference in July 2004, McMinnville, Oregon.
  Netted Pinot Noir at Felton Road,
    Central Otago, New Zealand
Recommended ★★★
FELTON ROAD Pinot Noir                                                          94    HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Central Otago 2002                                                              Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002
“Ethereal perfume of flowering                                                  “Lithe in texture, vivid in flavor,
raspberry and wild strawberry.                                                  bursting with black cherry, currant,
Beautiful lively notes of fresh herbs,                                          huckleberry, cedar, vanilla and exotic
fennel and thyme and silky smoked                                               spice flavors that hang together
finish. 3 - 10 years.”                                                          beautifully. Rich from the first sip, and
                                                                                the flavors persist impressively. Yum.
                          July 2004                                             Drink now through 2012.” -H.S.

                                                                                The Ponzi harvest crew picks
                                                                                each precious cluster by hand.

“Another highlight of the year was
Pinot Noir 2004 in Wellington. . .
I have to confess it was a great mo-
ment for me to hear Michel
Bettane, the most influential voice
in French wine bar none, stand up
in front of 500 people and praise
                                         The Ponzi Family’s Aurora Vineyard was named for the spectacular sunrise views of
our wine (Block 5 2001).” Blair          precious vines and majestic Mount Hood. “Aurora” is Italian for “sunrise.” The har-
Walter, Felton Road winemaker            vest crew arrives early each morning, welcomed by scenes such as this.

                                                                                                          WDQLTD. • 23
100 Wines to try before you die. . .
The world’s top wine experts compiled      Chardonnay notes, and enormous per-        of the Côte de Nuits necklace, the
their “100 Greatest Wines” for Decanter    fume which lasts in the empty glass for    Romanée-Conti vineyard makes up
magazine, a fantasy creation of “the       hours,’ says John Radford.”                the diamond encrusting. The 1966
most awe-inspiring wine list you’ll ever                                              is a wine of ‘pure strawberry fruit and
see.” The top ten received the most com-   Burgundy was the most popular region       aromas. . . poetry in a bottle,’ says
mendations, among them:                    for Decanter’s experts, and the Domaine    Ch’ng Poh Tiong. ‘The most unfor-
                                           continued its winning streak in the top    gettable wine I’ve ever had.’ Only
#4 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti             90, which were listed by region:           7,000 bottles were made.”
Richebourg 1959
“Big, fat and ripe, Richebourg lasts.      Domaine de la Romanée-Conti                Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
That said, Burgundy guru Clive             La Tâche 1990                              Romanée-Conti 1921
Coates MW reckons the ‘marvellous’         “Steven Spurrier’s favourite wine of       “If the 1966 was an indulgent
1959 is reaching its zenith, so if         all time. ‘Still deep in colour, floral    choice, the 1921 is the stuff of
you’ve got any bottles lying around,       in aroma, velvety and enveloping on        dreams. Along with the 1945, 1978,
you might want to reach – gently –         the palate,’ he says. ‘More that a         1985. . . ‘A mind-blowing, extraor-
for the corkscrew. 1959 was one of         work of art, it is a work of nature        dinary taste of bewitching spices –
the great Burgundy vintages of the         brought to life by the dedication of       heady concentration and opulence on
20th century. . .”                         man - the purest expression possible       a solid base,’ says Sutcliffe. ‘Un-
                                           of its soil.’”                             equalled – I can taste it now.’”
#5 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
La Tâche 1978                              Domaine de la Romanée-Conti                Domaine Leflaive
“1978 La Tâche is noted by Robert          La Tâche 1966                              Le Montrachet Grand Cru 1996
Parker as: ‘Among the greatest red         “Len Evans concedes that Spurrier’s        “To many connoisseurs, Leflaive is
Burgundies I have ever tasted’, while      beloved 1990 La Tâche ‘may one day         Puligny-Montrachet. But it is for its
Huon Hooke says it is ‘all about fra-      be better’, but maintains that for         Le Montrachet that it makes our list.
grance, finesses and balance’.             drinking now, it’s difficult to beat the   Clive Coates MW, Mr. Côte d’Or
           “Romanée-Conti’s exclu-         1966. ‘Just exquisite – incredible         himself, simply says that it is a wine
sively owned monopole vineyard, the        nose, length and strength, power           one should drink ‘on bended knee
6 ha La Tâche is the domaine’s largest.    with harmony and finesse.’ The             and with heartfelt and humble
Yet it produces just 1,880 cases a year.   1972 and 1978 were also mooted.”           thanks.’”                 August 2004
. . ‘Rarely anything but spectacular and
fascinating,’ says Burgundy expert         Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Anthony Hanson.”                           Romanée-Conti 1966                         Editor’s Note: See also page 7:
                                           “If the Domaine de la Romanée-             Royal Tokaji, Stz.Tamás 1993
#9 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti             Conti appellation is the central pearl     6 Puttonyos
Montrachet 1978
“At last, a white wine. And a
Chardonnay at that. ‘Le Montrachet
is Chardonnay at its most perfect – the
slowest to mature, the longest lived,’
says Clive Coates MW. It embodies
everything one can hope for from
white Burgundy.
         “Montrachet is split be-
tween Puligny and Chassagne, with
DRC owning vines in Chassagne. Its
1978 is a ‘fabulous, textbook white
Burgundy with gunflint, crisp
24 • WDQLTD.
                                                                                    not taste it but as the juice turns to
                                                                                    wine, the oils from the trees become
                                                                                    present. Some people like the charac-
                                                                                    ter and some do not. A little bit goes
                                                                                    a long way.

                                          Thoughts on the 2004 Harvest from         This year we cold soaked the fruit and
                                          Winemaker Jon Emmerich.                   then pressed it before it started ferment-
                                                                                    ing. This juice was then put on top of
                                          “The best thing about the 2004 grow-      older skins from which the wine had
                                          ing season was that we had early rains    been drained earlier in the day. We also
                                          which filled up our resevoirs (used for   crushed a few tons of Petite Verdot into
                                          later irrigation). Then a somewhat dry    the tank for color. We then started the
                                          winter. This allowed us to get into the   fermentation. I don’t know if this will
                                          vineyards early and start mildew          be successful but I will let you know all
                                          sprays. Going into Spring, the weather    in good time.”
                                          warmed up but not too much shatter                  Jon Emmerich, Winemaker
Silverado Vineyards                       in the Merlot (a good thing) and then
Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley            the Summer was cool. We started ir-
Limited Reserve 2001                      rigating the vines early this year be-
91 points                                 cause the soils started less saturated.
“Smooth, rich and generous, this
unfolds gracefully to reveal layers of    “This is actually good because it puts
ripe plum, black cherry, wild berry,      the grower in the ‘driver’s seat’. What
spice and cedary oak, with excellent      I mean by this is we can control the
balance, depth and structure.             water to the vines as opposed to the
                                          vines having unlimited water like in
Finishes with a tight mix of ripe fruit
                                          2003. Lastly we did have a heat spike
and firm tannins. Drink now
                                          in early Sept. We were prepared and
through 2012.” — J.L.                     did not panic. The vines came
                        Nov. 15, 2004
                                          through with very little problems and
                                          we resumed harvesting.

                                          “We do have a secular blessing of
                                          the grapes which consists of pour-
                                          ing the current release wine into the
                         ★★★★             first gondola of grapes. This year        Jon Emmerich, Silverado Vineyards
Silverado Vineyards 2001                  it was Chardonnay from our                winemaker for the past seven vintages
Napa Valley                               Carneros property. We will have the       and assistant to Jack Stuart for seven be-
                                          newest employee do the blessing           fore that, has seven wonders of Napa
Cabernet Sauvignon                        while the rest of the staff drinks        Valley fermenting in Silverado’s cellars.
“A supple, well-balanced, stylish         Champagne and toasts to a success-
Cabernet, of very good quality. It is     ful, safe vintage.                           Chicago! Chicago!
full, round, moderately intense, and                                                 Burgess Cellars, Fisher Vineyards,
medium long on the finish. It tastes      “The other thing I wanted to talk
                                                                                      Girard Winery, HdV Winery,
of plum, toast, melon, and blueberry.     about was an experiment we tried
3% Cab Franc, 2% Merlot.”                 this year. We have a block of                 Silverado Vineyards, and
                                          Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from our              Schramsberg Vineyards
                                          Mt. George Vineyard (Coombsville              – Congratulations –
                                          area) that is planted very close to         on your selection for the 2004
                                          eucalyptus trees. These trees impart
                                                                                       California Wine Experience!
Ronn Wiegand MW, Issue #103               a flavor to wine. As grapes you can
                                                                                                          WDQLTD. • 25
                                                              it’s impossible to gen-     We are a mountain winery, our vine-
                                                              eralize because it’s so     yards are a combination of gentle
                                                              diverse. In general it      slopes and terracing. For the most part
                                                              was similar to last         the rows go across slope rather than
                                                              year. I think this vin-     straight up and down. Why? When Pat
                                                              tage will make very         started to plant he wanted to follow
                                                              complex wines with          the contours of the land rather than
                                                              “killer” quality.           impose an artificial square or rectangle
                                                                                          on the landscape. It does make the
                                                              We compost our pom-         vineyard management more compli-
                                                              ace (the stems and          cated, but it means you have complex-
                                                              skins left over after the   ity built into the vineyard even before
                                                              juice has been pressed      the grapes get to the winery. For ex-
                                                              out) for a year and         ample, if we fermented every batch of
                                                              then bring that pom-        Cab separately with exactly the same
                                                              ace-compost back into       methods, we would still have 30 radi-
                                                              the vineyard.               cally different wines as a result of our
                                                                                          unusual terrain.
                                                              By the time the last
                                                              grapes came in we al-       Another great thing about Kuleto Es-
                                                              ready had a great deal      tate is our ‘animal kingdom.’ We are a
                                                              of wine pressed out         working ranch, with cattle, sheep, goats,
Report on the 2004 harvest at Kuleto Estate,                  and put into barrels,       chicken, squab, turkeys, rabbits, pigs
in the words of Dave Lattin, our winemaker                    so because of the na-       and we also see wildlife such as moun-
                                                              ture of this vineyard       tain lions, bobcats and bald eagles. We
     We started on August 23, 2004, with we were never “up against the wall”              also have many gardens—a huge
     Pinot Noir in our lowest block, at 800 in terms of tank space. That’s some-          kitchen garden and also olive and stone
     feet, and finished on October 12th. thing so different from other winer-             fruit orchards. One night when I was
     Harvest was 50 days long and it was ies; many nights as I would drive                leaving, a bobcat stared me down from
     earlier than last year by three weeks as home I’d see parking lots full of           quite close range. This spring we saw a
     a result of hot weather in early August. grapes at other wineries, the lights        family of mountain lions make their
     For most people it was a very com- on late at night, working away: that’s            home here.
     pressed harvest; for us it started ear- not at all our situation.
     lier and was very spread out, so it was
     easy to manage.                           As far as yeasts, we use a combina-
                                               tion of basic hands off methods, but
     All through the harvest season we had we are not afraid to intervene. This
     visitors here; they would taste the fresh harvest had a split personality as far
     juice, see close-up what the harvest as the type of fruit which came in.
     experience is; for example, we showed In fact, we changed our methods half
     them how basket pressing works. Of- way through to match the fruit com-
     ten we all were able to enjoy a meal ing in. We always use a mixture of
     together in the midst of grapes arriv- wild and inoculated yeast; we always
     ing and being crushed, since entertain- leave it up to fruit as it comes in.
     ing is the lifeblood of Kuleto Estate.    After crush, the juice sits there cold
                                               soaking. If the fermentation takes off
     In general we had lower yields by on its own, we allow it to go on its
     about 20%, although for our vine- own. If the grapes come in warm, it
                                                                                          Alexandra Romanini, Kuleto Estate’s
     yards it’s very specific, varietal by might start too quickly—then we in-            assistant winemaker, and Dave Lattin
     varietal and block by block. In fact, oculate to be safe.                            work the basket press.

      26 • WDQLTD.
Try Sauvignon Blanc                            TENIMENTI ANGELINI: WINERIES OF THE YEAR
   . . . for a change.                                                                               TreRose, Montepulciano
Sauvignon Blanc has some distinct ad-
vantages over Chardonnay, writes Fred
Tasker of the Miami Herald:
“Sauvignon Blanc:
        Better than chardonnay?”
          “Sauvignon blanc: It’ll never
catch up with chardonnay in popu-
larity, but it actually has a couple of               “Tenimenti Angelini, a trio       this year we recommended wines
advantages over it.                          of estates owned by the Angelini           from all three properties. For under $20,
          “First, it goes better with        family, produced wines from three          the ‘00 Trerose is an affordable Vino No-
most foods. Sauvignon blanc can be           regions in Tuscany: Chianti                bile that’s firm, balanced and lightly pep-
lean, dry and crisp. . .                     Classico, at San Leonino;                  pery. The ‘99 San Leonino Riserva, from
          “Second, since sauvignon           Montepulciano, at Tenuta Trerose;          a superb vintage for Chianti Classico, is
blanc is less popular, it’s usually only     and Montalcino, at Val di Suga. The        tight and tannic right now, needing a
about two-thirds the price of a              three were brought together under          few years of cellar time for its extracted
chardonnay of equal quality. . .”            one name in 1994, and all operate          flavors to emerge.
          “Highly recommended                under the guiding hand of                             “Our two top wines were
• 2003 Girard Sauvignon Blanc,               winemaker Mario Calzolari.                 both from the Val di Suga property
Napa Valley: leafy, flinty aromas,           Calzolari, formerly at Poggio Antico,      in Montalcino, which owns vine-
lime and green apple flavors, lightly        made substantial changes upon his          yards both to the northwest and
tart, excellent balance, nicely varietal.”   arrival at the Angelini properties, re-    south of Montalcino. The ‘98 Val
 The Press Democrat, Santa Rosa, CA          planting the vineyards to a much           di Suga is traditionally styled
      Wednesday, September 22, 2004          higher density (6,000 vines per hect-      Brunello, hard-edged for now with
                                             are), then replacing all of the old        black cranberry fruit and tart acid-
GIRARD 2003 NAPA VALLEY                      concrete and oak fermentors with           ity; the ‘98 Vigna Spuntali, from a
Sauvignon Blanc ★★★★                         stainless steel or new oak vessels of      single, 45-year-old vineyard south of
 “A supple, ripely flavored, full bodied     varying sizes to accommodate differ-       Montalcino, is more powerful and
Sauvignon, tasting of melon, pear,           ently sized vineyard parcels; he also      intense even as it stays elegant, bal-
lemon grass, and lemon. Medium               uses only new French oak for his top       ancing its blackberry fruit with re-
long finish. No ML.”                         wines.                                     fined tannins.”
                                                      “The results of all these
                                             changes have been impressive, and
                                                                                                BUYING GUIDE 2005

Ronn Wiegand MW, June 2004, Issue #101       Delamotte Champagne
Exceptional Merit:            ★              The House of Delamotte was founded         Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier used for
Silverado Vineyards 2002                     in 1760 in the heart of the Côte des       the Brut (dry) and Rosé Champagne
Sauvignon Blanc                              Blancs. It is the sixth oldest house in    come from vineyards in Bouzy, Tours-
91% Sauvignon Blanc                          Champagne and now the sister house         sur-Marne & Ambonnay.
9% Sémillon                                  of Salon. It is true that Delamotte will
                                                                                        Delamotte Brut: “Best Value:
“Medium bodied, aromatic, and                use Salon grapes when the latter does
                                                                                        Nutty and charming, with nice cit-
crisp with grassy, herbal, and citrus        not declare a vintage. Hence,
                                                                                        rus flavors and good depth. A big
aromas complemented by flavors of            Delamotte fruit is of the highest
                                                                                        Champagne with a great deal of char-
grapefruit, peach, nectarine, herbs,         pedigree. Chardonnay comes
                                                                                        acter.” Rating: “Very Good/Delicious”
and toasted grain; medium finish.            principally from three villages: Le
                                                                                           The Dow Jones ‘Other Champagne’ Index
Thai basil shrimp.”                          Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize and Oger, all
                                                                                            The Wall Street Journal, May 24, 2002
                                             classified 100% Grands Crus. The
SANTÉ reviews, October 2004                                                                      Dorothy J. Gaiter & John Brecher
                                                                                                               WDQLTD. • 27
It is always a relief to complete the
harvest and have all the grapes safely
in the winery. The Pinot varietals love
our cool Willamette Valley climate,
but the unpredictability of the weather
in September and October always
makes for some anxious times.

This year we began by picking the
Terres Basses Pinot Noir vineyard on
September 9th. As its name suggests,
this is the lowest block on the property
and always the first to ripen. We did
not pick again for almost two weeks
because of a prolonged spell of
unseasonably cold, wet weather. A
storm system from the Gulf of Alaska,
more typical of November, brought
heavy rain and thunder showers,
which threatened to damage the
ripening fruit.

Fortunately WillaKenzie Estate
experienced no serious problems.
Good weather followed the storms and
beginning on September 22nd we
harvested       virtually     without
interruption until October 5th when
the last block of Gamay Noir was
brought in. A small amount of fruit              Douglas fir guarding the golden WillaKenzie Pinot Noir vineyard.
was left on the vine until October 15th
for our Late Harvest Pinot Gris.           What do autumn colors tell us?
                                           Finally, someone has set me straight about my innocent perennial
Typical of 2004 in the northern            question: Do white grapevines turn yellow in the Fall and red grape-
Willamette Valley, yields were lower       vines turn red?
than usual as a result of an uneven set
                                           “No, Sue, it is not true about white vines turning yellow and reds to red,
in the spring. Quality is excellent
                                           as you can see in the picture. All those vines are Pinot Noir.
throughout, however, with the fruit
showing good concentration, balance        “In older plantings you will see quite often that red varietals show red
and acidity, ripe tannins and no trace     leaves. In some cases mild strains of viruses do that. It is also a function
of rot because of diligent vineyard        of the water household of the plant after harvest.”
management. Winemaker Thibaud                                                 Kind regards,
Mandet has expressed enthusiasm for
                                                                              Daniel Fey, Vineyard Manager
the early promise of the 2004 vintage.
                                                                              WillaKenzie Estate

28 • WDQLTD.
Decanter’s Stephen Brook introduces
“10 names you can trust” – the best
négociants in Burgundy – among
“. . . François Faiveley keeps a very
close eye on his wine business. He
owns 122 ha of vineyards – of which
75 ha are in the Côte Chalonnaise –
and these cover 80% of the
company’s needs. The top wines are
often from Corton and Mazis-
Chambertin, but Faiveley also makes
excellent Mercurey, with a range of
good-value bottlings. The wines
from his 35 appellations in the Côte
d’Or can be quite demanding: dense,      JOSEPH FAIVELEY, MERCUREY               “Le Triage” (sorting the grapes) is an
fairly extracted and requiring bottle-   RULLY, LES VILLERANGES, 2002 WHITE      integral part of harvest at Domaine
age to fully display their perfume and   “Good ripe, balanced, stylish fruit.    Faiveley. All grapes are sorted by hand
complexity.”                             Good touch of oak. This has style and   as they pass over a mesh conveyor
                                         depth. Very good.”                      belt, which allows the oxidised juice
                           JULY 2004                                             to drain away while leaves and any
                                         RULLY, LES VILLERANGES, 2002 RED        damaged, unripe, or moldy grapes
JOSEPH FAIVELEY, MERCUREY                “Medium colour. Ripe,
MERCUREY, CLOS DES MYGLANDS,             robust, balanced and
PREMIER CRU, 2002, RED                   stylish. Medium body.
“Monopole. A touch austere on the        Not a lot of tannin or
attack but impressive fruit and di-      backbone but fresh and
mension on the follow-through.           attractive and positive.
Quite rich. Harmonious. Very good        Ready soon. Quite good
indeed.”                                 plus.”
      Clive Coates MW, The Vine, No. 235, August 2004

                                                                                 are discarded. The process is labor-
                                                                                 intensive quality-control (some
                                                                                 would say perfectionism), but the
                                                                                 results wholly justify many hands and
                                                                                 countless hours over the sorting table,
                                                                                 where François Faiveley himself is
                                                                                 often found.

                                                                                 Faiveley employs 250 pickers at
                                                                                 harvest time; all grapes are picked
                                                                                 by hand. When a plot is ripe, it can
                                                                                 be cleared in two to three hours;
                                                                                 the grapes are immediately trans-
                                                                                 ported to one of two wineries situ-
                                                                                 ated close to the vineyards.
                                                                                                   WDQLTD. • 29

It is with great pride and pleasure that Wilson Daniels Ltd
now represents Mastroberardino of Campania. Long rec-
ognized as the most important and finest producer from
southern Italy, Mastroberardino was officially founded in
1878, although the family has been making wines since
c.1720. It is believed to be the region’s oldest continuing
winery. The facility and cellars in Atripalda were badly dam-
aged in the earthquake of 1980. The architectural characteris-
tics of the original cellars were preserved in their restoration, but
                                                                             Piero Mastroberardino, tenth generation proprietor,
advanced technological innovations were added to create mod-               in the cellars with beautifully frescoed, vaulted ceilings
ern-style wines. Many cultural events, concerts and exhibits are
conducted under these gloriously painted ceilings.                      The region’s most famous red wine, Taurasi, has been called
                                                                        the “Barolo of the south”. While other producers make a
        The Mastroberardino family’s mission has been to pre-           blend with non-native grapes, Mastroberardino uses the in-
        serve the ancient varietals of their homeland – often           digenous Aglianico grape exclusively. It is “almost blackish
        called “archeological varieties”. Three varieties – Aglia-      in color with bitter chocolate, leather, and tar aromas and
        nico, Fiano, and Greco – were the great grapes of an-           flavors” (The Wine Bible, Karen MacNeil), and is noted for
        tiquity. They would not exist today if the Mastrober-           its capacity to age. Taurasi Radici (roots) is a reference to
             ardino family had not saved them, replanting the           the family’s long history in Campania; this single-vineyard
             slopes of Mount Vesuvius and the rich volcanic             wine was first produced in 1986.
             soils of Avellino (along the Appian Way) with
             these ancient vines. Defining cultivation areas            Unlike other producers in Campania, Mastroberardino uses
             from ancient Roman times, many of which are                only native grapes, non-blended, in their famous white
             2,000 years old, and vinifying single-varietal             wines. Fiano di Avellino is the most distinguished dry white
             wines from indigenous grapes, the Mastrober-               wine of Italy’s south, with aromas of pear, acacia and spic-
             ardino family has restored the prestige of this            es, hints of toasted hazelnuts and splendid acidity on the
             region. They produce the finest wines of south-            palate. Greco, introduced by the Greeks before the found-
             ern Italy, acclaimed by critics and the public             ing of Rome, thrives in the tufaceous soils around the hill-
             alike: Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, and Greco di            side village of Tufo. Greco di Tufo offers fruit flavors of
             Tufo. All three are now designated DOCG                    apricot, peach and pear, crisp acidity, elegant structure, with
             wines, the highest quality in Italy.                       toasted almonds on the finish.

        Hillside vineyards in Campania, Italy’s southern peninsula, a rugged, sunny, mountainous land with 2000 years
                             of viticultural history revived and restored by the Mastroberardino family.

30 • WDQLTD.
                                      MOLINARI SAMBUCA extra was first created in Italy nearly 60
                                      years ago. Now the most beloved Sambuca in the world, Molinari has
                                      captured the castle for this sweet, robust liqueur. It is made from essen-
                                      tial oils extracted through steam distillation from the seeds of star anise –
                                      the aromas and flavors enhanced by secret herbs and spices. By decree of
                                      the 1968 Italian Supreme Court, the word “extra” is permitted only to
                                      Molinari Sambuca, referring to the quality of its ingredients, which “are
                                      particularly fine and superior to the ones usually used in other Sambucas.
                                      These characteristics distinguish Molinari from its competitors. The qual-
                                      ity of Molinari is truly first class.” Savored on its own, or with “la mosca”
                                      (three coffee beans), on the rocks or neat, Molinari Sambuca extra can
                                      be served as an apéritif, an after-dinner drink, or used in cocktails – a
                                      stylish classic of good taste.

FERNET-BRANCA is traditionally served as an after-dinner-drink
in Europe. Its health-enhancing properties have made it the world’s
favorite digestivo. A blend of aromatic, beneficial herbs and spices
(including angelica, saffron, rhubarb and peppermint) is macerated
in alcohol, distilled, and matured in oak casks for over a year. Fernet-
Branca’s refreshing, fiery flavor and cleansing aftertaste can be enjoyed
straight up with a “back” of ginger ale, or mixed with cola or a splash
of mineral water.
BRANCAMENTA is the mint-infused version, served over crushed
ice or mixed with lemon-lime soda to create a refreshing “Mintivo”.

                                       BAFFERTS GIN combines the fresh taste of the world’s finest vodkas with the mild
                                       character of the finest imported gin. The result is a remarkably delicate flavor. The
                                       Bafferts Gin recipe has been handed down through the Hayman family, distillers in
                                       London for over 200 years. Great grandson Chris Hayman produces this hand-crafted
                                       and triple-distilled spirit with fewer botanicals than any other gin. Bafferts offers a
                                       refined, light taste that is perfect for martinis and also very “mixable”. Try a Bafferts
                                       Cosmopolitan and see why it is preferred by 5 out of 6 tasters in the “Cosmopolitan
                                       Challenge”. . . the choice is clear! Bafferts, “the vodka-lover’s gin”, is uniquely elegant
                                       and pleasing to the palate.

                                                                                                                                     TEAR ALONG DOTTED LINE

ZAYA RUM is an exceptionally smooth, rich and flavorful, hand-crafted Gran Reserva
from Guatemala. Produced from hand-selected 100% pure virgin sugar cane, estate-
grown on the rich, volcanic soils of the tropics, the “pure virgin honey” is carefully
extracted from the sugar cane and double-distilled in small, copper pot stills. Zaya
Rum uses exceedingly limpid, all natural “Millenary Waters” to keep the flavors pure.
Zaya is then matured in oak barriques for 12 long years before its release. This is a world-
class rum – seamless, deep, and complex – created by master craftsmen whose goal is
simply to make the world’s finest premium 12-year-old rum.
I talians have a long-standing love affair
with Coffee — strong, rich, Espresso Coffee.
This passion inspired Signor Borghetti in 1860
to produce his own unique Espresso Coffee Liqueur:
Completely natural, Caffè Borghetti is made
from the finest espresso coffee, without additives
or extracts. In contrast to all other products,
the fragrance, flavor, and lingering pleasure
come exclusively from espresso coffee.

Served in European cafés for over 100 years,
Caffè Borghetti is versatile and international.
Enjoy at room temperature, over ice, with ice cream,
or as a passionate “White Russian”.

is one of the unique liqueurs
of Milan, Italy.
                                                                              TEAR ALONG DOTTED LINE

It’s not just Cabo Wabo . . . it’s a Cabo Wabo Gift Set
  www.cabowabo.com • Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd • www.wilsondaniels.com
All fine tequilas are produced by using a double
distillation method. In the year 2000, Corralejo
introduced a new type: Triple Distilled. Gradually
offering it to discerning consumers in the Mexican
market, sales have been no less than phenomenal!
Now we are sending some Triple Distilled Corralejo
to selected export markets. If you are lucky enough
to find a bottle, we feel certain that you will be highly
pleased with it’s soft yet rich Agave taste. Our unique
Corralejo “Triple” is distilled first through a copper
pot still, then a column still method and finally
through the copper pot one more time. Simply put,
Triple Distilled Reposado is superb tequila!

CALIFORNIA                                      CALIFORNIA                                   FRANCE ~ BURGUNDY
BURGESS CELLARS                                 HD V                                         DOMAINE DUJAC
Cabernet Sauvignon                              Chardonnay                                   Morey Saint-Denis (Blanc)
Chardonnay - Triere Estate                      Syrah                                        Morey Saint-Denis “Les Monts Luisants”
Merlot                                          HDV Proprietary Red                          Morey Saint Denis (Rouge)
Syrah                                                                                        Chambolle-Musigny
Zinfandel                                       ILONA                                        Morey Saint-Denis 1er Cru
Enveiere                                                                                     Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru “Aux Combottes”
                                                Red Wine
                                                                                             Charmes Chambertin
CLOS PEGASE WINERY**                                                                         Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru “Les Gruenchers”
Sauvignon Blanc - Mitsuko’s Vineyard            JUSLYN VINEYARD                              Clos Saint-Denis
Chardonnay - Mitsuko’s Vineyard                 Sauvignon Blanc                              Clos de la Roche
Merlot - Mitsuko’s Vineyard                     Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley               Échézeaux
Pinot Noir - Mitsuko’s Vineyard                 Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Select           Bonnes Mares
White Hommage - Chardonnay                      Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon                                                                           DUJAC FILS ET PÈRE
Red Hommage - Cabernet Sauvignon
Palisades Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
                                                KULETO ESTATE                                Meursault
                                                Chardonnay                                   Puligny-Montrachet
Graveyard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon                                                            Gevrey-Chambertin
                                                Pinot Noir
FISHER VINEYARDS**                              Cabernet Sauvignon                           Morey-Saint-Denis
Cameron Napa Valley                             Rosato di Sangiovese                         Chambolle-Musigny
Coach Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon               Sangiovese
Whitney’s Vineyard Chardonnay                   Zinfandel                                    DOMAINE LEFLAIVE
RCF Vineyard Merlot                             Syrah                                        Chevalier-Montrachet
Wedding Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon                                                          Bâtard-Montrachet
Lamb Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon                SCHRAMSBERG **                               Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
                                                                                             Puligny-Montrachet les Pucelles
                                                Mirabelle Brut
EOS ESTATE WINERY                                                                            Puligny-Montrachet les Folatières
                                                Blanc de Blancs * / * *
Sauvignon Blanc                                                                              Puligny-Montrachet les Combettes
                                                Blanc de Noirs
Chardonnay                                                                                   Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon
                                                Brut Rosé
Cabernet Sauvignon                                                                           Puligny-Montrachet
Merlot                                                                                       Bourgogne Blanc
                                                Reserve * *
Zinfandel                                                                                    Blagny 1er Cru “Sous le Dos d’Ane” (rouge)
                                                J. Schram
The French Connection                                                                        Meursault 1er Cru “Sous le Dos d”Ane”
                                                J. Davies
Fumé Blanc Reserve
Petite Sirah Reserve                            SILVERADO VINEYARDS                          DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve                                                                   Bourgogne Aligote
                                                Sauvignon Blanc
Cupa Grandis Chardonnay                                                                      Bourgogne Chardonnay
Cupa Grandis Petite Sirah                                                                    Meursault
Zinfandel Port                                                                               Meursault “Les Tessons”
Late Harvest Moscato                                                                         Meursault Perriers Premier Cru
                                                Cabernet Sauvignon
                                                                                             Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
NOVELLA                                         Stags Leap Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon* *
                                                                                             Bourgogne “Pinot Noir”
                                                Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Reserve
Sauvignon Blanc                                                                              Monthelie
Chardonnay                                                                                   Meursault “Les Durots”
Pinot Grigio                                    OREGON                                       Pommard Grands Epenots Premier Cru
Moscato                                         PONZI VINEYARDS
Synergy                                         Arneis                                       MOREY-BLANC
Sangiovese                                      Reserve Chardonnay                           Saint-Romain
Cabernet Sauvignon                              Pinot Blanc                                  Saint-Aubin “Les Pucelles”
Merlot                                                                                       Saint-Auban Premier Cru
                                                Pinot Gris
Late Harvest Moscato                                                                         Auxey-Duresses
                                                Tavola Pinot Noir
                                                Pinot Noir                                   Meursault
GAINEY VINEYARD                                                                              Meursault “Les Casse-Têtes”
Riesling                                        Reserve Pinot Noir
                                                                                             Meursault “Les Narvaux”
Sauvignon Blanc                                 Abetina Vineyard Pinot Noir                  Meursault Boucheres Premier Cru
Chardonnay                                                                                   Meursault Poruzots Premier Cru
Merlot                                          WILLAKENZIE ESTATE                           Meursault Charmes Premier Cru
Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc               Pinot Blanc                                  Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru
Limited Selection Chardonnay                    Pinot Gris                                   Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
Limited Selection Merlot                        Pinot Meunier                                Volnay Santenots Premier Cru
                                                Gamay Noir                                   Aloxe Corton Premier Cru “Clos du Chapitre”
GIRARD WINERY                                   Pinot Noir Willamette                        Aloxe Corton Premier Cru “Les Vercots”
Chardonnay                                      Pinot Noir Aliette
Sauvignon Blanc                                 Pinot Noir Kiana
Red Blend                                       Pinot Noir Emery                             DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI**
Cabernet Franc                                  Pinot Noir Pierre Léon                       2001 Vintage
Petite Sirah                                    Pinot Noir Triple Black Slopes               1979 Fine Bourgogne
Zinfandel                                       Pinot Noir Terres Basses                     1979 Marc de Bourgogne

                        Contact Wilson Daniels Ltd. for information pertaining to specific vintages and availability.
FRANCE ~ BURGUNDY                                    ITALY ~ TUSCANY                                          AUSTRALIA ~ MCLAREN VALE
BOURGOGNES FAIVELEY                                  TENIMENTI ANGELINI:                                      WIRRA WIRRA VINEYARDS **
Bourgogne “Georges Faiveley” Chardonnay                                                                       Scrubby Rise Chardonnay
                                                     VAL DI SUGA                                              Scrubby Rise Shiraz
Rully Blanc les Villeranges
                                                     Rosso di Montalcino                                      Church Block (Cabernet, Shiraz, Merlot)
Montagny “Les Joncs”
                                                     Brunello di Montalcino                                   Hand Picked Riesling
Mercurey Clos Rochette
                                                     Brunello di Montalcino Riserva                           McLaren Vale Shiraz
Mâcon Prissé
                                                     Brunello Vigna del Lago                                  McLaren Vale Grenache
Saint Véran
                                                     Brunello Vigna Spuntali                                  RSW Shiraz
Bourgogne “Joseph Faiveley” Pinot Noir
Mercurey “Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet”             TENUTA TREROSE                                           Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon
Côte de Beaune-Villages                              Vino Nobile di Montepulciano                             Chook Block Shiraz
Côte de Nuits-Villages                               Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva                     Allawah Grenache
Givry Rouge Champ Lalot                              Vino Nobile di Montepulciano La Villa
Mercurey La Framboisière                             Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Simposio                    NEW ZEALAND
Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands                   Rosso di Montepulciano                                   KUMEU RIVER~AUCKLAND
Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Roy                         Renaio Chardonnay                                        Chardonnay
Gevrey-Chambertin                                    Vin Santo                                                Chardonnay, Matés Vineyard
Gevrey 1er Cru Les Cazetiers                         SAN LEONINO                                              Pinot Gris
Latricières Chambertin                               Chianti Classico                                         Pinot Noir
Santenay 1er Cru “Beaurepaire”                       Chianti Classico Riserva                                 Melba ~ Red Blend
Nuits-Saint-Georges                                  Chianti Classico Monsenese
Nuits-St.-Georges “Clos de la Maréchale”             Extra Virgin Olive Oil                                   FELTON ROAD~CENTRAL OTAGO
Nuits-St.-Georges “Les Vignerondes”                                                                           Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay
Nuits-St.-Georges “Les Saint Georges”                COLLAZZI                                                 Dry Riesling
Corton “Clos des Cortons Faiveley” Monopole          Toscana Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot                      Pinot Noir
Note: Other Faiveley wines may be available.                                                                  Block 3 Pinot Noir
                                                     ITALY ~ PIEDMONT
                                                                                                              Block 5 Pinot Noir
FRANCE ~ ALSACE                                      HASTAE
MARC KREYDENWEISS                                    Barbera d’Asti Quorum                                    CHILE ~ MAIPO VALLEY
Kritt Pinot Blanc                                                                                             DOMUS AUREA
Kritt Klevner                                        ITALY ~ CAMPANIA                                         Cabernet Sauvignon Clos Quebrada de Macul
Kritt Gewürztraminer                                 MASTROBERARDINO
                                                     Naturalis Historia Irpinia IGT 2000
Andlau Riesling                                                                                               WILSON DANIELS SPIRITS
                                                     Taurasi Radici DOCG 2000
Wiebelsberg Riesling
                                                     Fiano di Avellino Radici DOCG 2003                       BAFFERTS GIN
Kastelberg Riesling
                                                     Greco di Tufo Novaserra DOCG 2003                        CABO WABO TEQUILA
Moenchberg Pinot Gris
                                                     Aglianico Irpinia IGT 2003                               Reposado* * * *
Lerchenberg Pinot Gris
                                                     Falanghina Sannio DOC 2003                               Blanco
Clos Rebgarten Riesling V. T.
                                                     Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOC 2003              Añejo
DOMAINE des PERRIÈRES Costières de Nîmes
                                                     Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOC 2003               CASA NOBLE
                                                     AUSTRALIA ~ BAROSSA                                      Reposado*/****
FRANCE ~ CHAMPAGNE                                                                                            Crystal
SALON LE MESNIL**                                    GRANT BURGE                                              Añejo****
Blanc de Blancs 1995                                 Barossa Vines Chardonnay
                                                                                                              CORRALEJO TEQUILA
DELAMOTTE                                            Barossa Vines Cabernet Merlot
Brut NV                                              Barossa Vines Shiraz
                                                                                                              Triple Distilled Reposado
Brut Rosé NV                                         Thorn Eden Valley Riesling                               Blanco
Blanc de Blancs 1997                                 Kraft Sauvignon Blanc                                    Añejo
                                                     Summers Eden Valley Chardonnay
                                                                                                              FRATELLI BRANCA
FRANCE ~ PROVENCE                                    Hillcot Merlot
                                                                                                              Fernet-Branca */****
DOMAINE DE TRIENNES                                  Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon                          Brancamenta */****
Viognier Sainte Fleur                                Filsell Shiraz                                           Caffè Borghetti
St. Auguste (Cabernet/Syrah)                         Miamba Shiraz                                            Carpano Punt e Mes
                                                     The Holy Trinity: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre            Grappa Candolini Bianca
HUNGARY~ TOKAJI                                      Balthasar: Shiraz, Viognier                              Grappa Candolini Ruta
ROYAL TOKAJI WINE COMPANY                            Shadrach: Cabernet Sauvignon
                                                     Meshach: Shiraz                                          MOLINARI SAMBUCA extra*****
Royal Tokaji (Red Label)
Betsek (First Growth)                                10-Year-Old Tawny Port                                   ZAYA RUM***
Birsalmás (Second Growth)                          * HALF BOTTLES AVAILABLE                                   Wilson Daniels Ltd. sells to licensed
Nyulászó (First Growth)                            ** L A R G E F O R M A T A V A I L A B L E                 distributors only, not directly to consumers.
Szt. Tamás (First Growth)                                                                                     If you would like the name of the Wilson
                                                   *** 100- M L . B O T T L E S A V A I L A B L E
Mézes Mály (Great First Growth)                                                                               Daniels Ltd. distributor in your area, please
Aszú Essencia
                                                   **** 50-ML BOTTLES AVAILABLE                               call us at 707-963-9661 or visit our website:
1993 Essencia                                      * * * * * ON E -LI T E R B O T T L E S A V A I L A B L E   www.wilsondaniels.com

                               Contact Wilson Daniels Ltd. for information pertaining to specific vintages and availability.
                                                                                                                       Cover Photograph: Andy Katz – Gainey Vineyard “Evan’s Ranch” Santa Rita Hills
Wilson Daniels Ltd., Saint Helena, CA: Debbie Avila, John Clempson, Sue Kibbe, Barbara Lloyd, Allen Sturm, Dick Maher, Kathy Perrelli, Mary Glover, Lisa Sambora (hidden), Jorge Torres, Arturo Alvarez (kneeling), Katherine
Campbell, Betty Trott, Teresa Fisher, Tania Harmon, April Frederick, Bob Silva, Lisa Blackmon, Shawn Powell, Theresa Huntington, Don Cain, Quincy Selbach, Esther Lewis, Stephanie Watson, Rolinda Edmunds, Teresa
Lewis, Tess Rodriguez, Carol Alqarah, John Bradbury, Gib Rockwood, Vern Underwood (Chairman & CEO, Young’s Holdings, Inc.), Ted Reimer, Jackie Stone, Kevin Groom, Edna Bronson, Patti Erwin (not present).
   Dear Friends,
   It’s that special, all too rare time of year when we stop to give thanks
                                                                                                 P.O. BOX 440-B                  PH: 707/963-9661                                                    U.S. Postage
   and to think of others. We are indeed thankful for the excellent 2004                  ST. HELENA, CA 94574                   FX: 707/963-8566                                                        PAID
   harvest, for exciting new vintages just released or awaiting us in the                                                                                                                            Permit # 81
   cellars, and for the splendid addition of Mastroberardino to our import                                                                                                                          St. Helena, CA
   We are also thankful for all our superb properties, our great network of
   wholesalers, and our loyal customers. We are especially blessed with
   a team here in St. Helena and all across the country that is simply the
   best in the business.
   It is a privilege to work with these dedicated groups of people, with
   such an unmatched portfolio, and with all of you. Thank you for your
   support. Best wishes for the holidays and for a healthy, peaceful and
   prosperous New Year.
     Director of Operations             VP, CFO                             CEO
                 VP Import Director              Sr.VP Sales & Marketing

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