s someone who has been in the Cosmetic & Fra- sels ornamented with bronze or silver passementerie trim
trends l fragrance — everything old is new again
From The Incense Roads A grance Industry for the past 30 years, and is now
offering Multi-Sensory Custom Perfume Experi-
ences, I was eagerly anticipating my sojourn to Fez and
are a visual and tactile delight as are the ‘Aladdin’ slippers,
candles with iconic Moroccan pierced shapes such as the
Hamsa (hand) and archways, tagines, and brightly colored
of Morocco to Today’s
Marrakech in Morocco to experience the sensorial delights ceramic pottery. The splendid multi-hued rugs and carpets
I have read about for years. And what an experience it was!
The history of Morocco is fascinating. The ancient city
walls in Fez are from the 9th century and ironically they
refer to the 14th Century as the New City! The historical
aspects of the various places we visited are extraordinary
but the memories and visions I have are of the intoxicating
Everything Old is New Again! aromas still hovering around my nostrils and wafting in
the air. In addition, the colors, and intricate patterns of the
mosaic tiles, the architec-
By Sue Phillips
ture and archways, and
sounds in the market
places are all enthralling
hanging outside the souks
sensory delights which
and in the magnificent guest
I shall remember for the
houses or Riads showcase
rest of my life.
these priceless masterpieces.
From a multi-sensory Silk and wool carpets along-
standpoint, the Souks side brightly striped patterned
Kilim Berber rugs vie for at-
tention next to the intricate
ornate weaves. Guests are always invited to have mint tea
while proud merchants present their ‘wares’ and despite the
Moroccans liking their tea very sweet, our preference was
for the natural flavor of the mint tea without sugar.
The correlation between taste and smell is so intertwined
and the sights, sounds, smells, colors, and amazing multi-
sensory delights are unparalleled.
“Pharmacias” and Herborists display their herbs and spices
in large hessian sacks outside the stores. Inside, the color-
(markets) in the Medinas are extraordinary. One’s senses ful apothecary bottles of ground spices and herbs are
come alive and are constantly delighted — the “ooooh’s and interspersed with various multi-colored henna powders, saf-
aaaaah’s’” are well deserved. fron from the crocus flower and other mystical ingredients
of roots, herbs and barks beckon us to try them!
The markets are ablaze with bright hues and gradated
colors in various shades of reds, oranges, purples, greens, Large displays of amber, musk, jasmine, sandalwood, in-
turquoise, yellows, blues, and pinks and are abundant in cense and anise plants are abundant and it is easy to see
every conceivable product… Moroccan silk scarves, always why new perfumes are now incorporating these ancient
intertwined with flecks of gold thread glinting through the and traditional ingredients into modern perfumery… thus
magnificent weaves and patterns. Luscious heavy silk tas- everything old is new again!
GLOW SPRING ‘10 Th e M a g a z i n e A b o u t B e a u t y , H e a l t h A n d We l l n e s s 6
Perfume Fragrance Trends — and lets us enjoy the world of sensual arousal or spiritual customized perfumes are making headway due to the con-
trends l fragrance — everything old is new again
Ingredients from the past used in perfumery today. elevation – depending on the intention. fusion in the marketplace about so many celebrity, designer,
singer, actress, sports figure and even brandy companies
Fragrant goods were established throughout Arabia and Musk is the name originally given to a substance with
offering eponymous perfumes. Also from an economic
the Middle East long before 1500 BC. The ‘incense route’ a penetrating odor obtained from a gland of the male
standpoint, today’s consumer still loves fragrance but wants
of the Roman Empire, from Arabia to the Indian Ocean musk deer. Until the late 19th century, natural animal musk
to ensure that their fragrance purchase is relevant, and
burgeoned as the demand for incenses and fragrances in- was used extensively in perfumery until economic and
wants to wear something that is representative of their
creased. The people of Arabia created their own perfumes ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk, which
own tastes, and
using ingredients such as oud, sandalwood, musk, roses, is used almost
and incense. Today, those fragrant ingredients are prevalent
in modern perfumery.
It was in the 10th Century AD that the first unique brand
Few perfume oils have the mystique of Oud. Made from the
is the organic perfume extract was created when the called YOU.
have been negatively associated as being ‘old-fashioned’ compound musk In much the
fragrant resin found in Aquilaria trees, Oud is also referred
to as Agarwood, Aloeswood and Eaglewood. This is the
perfumes. However, as with most ingredients, the classic responsible for process of distilling rose petals was improved. same way as
Rose has been updated and paired with surprising the characteris- Voltaire the
Aloe spoken of in the Bible. It has been loved and treas-
ingredients such as Violet Leaf, Clove Oil, Sandalwood and tic odor but it is also compounded from plant extracts such French philosopher said “I decide to be happy because its
ured for thousands of years, by mystics and romantics alike.
Blackcurrant to give it a more exotic and sensual evocation. as Angelica Root and Coriander. The substance has been good for my health” fragrance brings joy and happiness.
used since ancient times as a popular perfume fixative in So, as a tribute to the quote that is framed outside the
Amber is from Ambergris (not to be confused with the base notes, and was one of the most expensive animal Marrakech Museum, enjoy fragrance as it brings happiness.
fossilized or tree resin amber which is used for the products in the world. The name, originated from Sanskrit Be healthy and wear much fragrance!
manufacture of ornamental objects and jewelry) — the meaning “testicle,” has come to encompass a wide variety
pleasant-smelling waxy substance washed up onto the of substances with somewhat similar odors. The white
ocean floor from the sperm whale after eating its favorite musk accord itself is sweet, a bit indecent, and woody.
food, cuttlefish, which irritated the stomach lining of the
whale. The ambergris was produced as a counter-irritant. Galbanum is an aromatic gum resin found in Persia and
The sperm whale is an endangered species and today am- one of the oldest drugs. In the 1100’s it was used in
bergris oil is very expensive but still sought after by per- incense as a way of bringing unrepentant and deliberate
fumers. However, there are now synthetic varieties sinners back to the ‘fold’. In the bible it is mentioned as
of ambergris that are available. Fragrant amber is a combi- being used in the making of a perfume for the Tabernacle.
Oud is proclaimed as an aid to spiritual meditation. Lovers Galbanum is used in perfumery to give a ‘leafy green’
nation of several different botanical sources and is a very
use it as an aphrodisiac. Today it is becoming a very note and is found in perfumery for orientals and chypres —
important fixative in perfumery. Amber is used in both
popular ingredient in modern perfumery, and as one Caliph Le Must de Cartier , Chanel 19, and Lancome’s Magie
men’s and women’s perfumery and is known as ‘The
stated, “If I were a merchant I would trade only in OUD Noire are classics and Tom Ford’s Italian Cypress has
King of Scents’. It helps one to let go of daily stresses
perfume, so that if I did not make a profit I would have notes of galbanum.
profited from its sensational scent”.
Despite many different ingredients gaining and diminishing
Current perfumes by Kilian, Tom Ford, Trish McEvoy and in popularity over the years, to cater to varying consumer’s
many others have incorporated sensuous Oud into their tastes, perfumery will always be inspired by natural and
fragrance concoctions. organic flowers, roots, herbs and spices. Thanks to the
ever increasing technology employed by perfumers, many Sue Phillips, President of Scenterprises, Ltd., is an
Rose oil, meaning either rose otto (attar of rose, attar of
of the world’s finest ingredients which are no longer able to International Fragrance Expert who has created, devel-
roses) or rose absolute, is the essential oil extracted from
be sourced due to extinction or to animal protectionism, are
the petals of various types of rose. Extraction is either oped and launched perfumes for Tiffany’s, Burberry,
now available due to synthetic, and aromatic compounding.
through steam distillation or solvent extraction. Rose oils Trish McEvoy and others. Scenterprises, Ltd. provides
are still perhaps the most widely used essential oil in One of the key trends today is to craft scents that reflect “custom Perfume experiences” for groups, large and
perfumery, but in recent years, rose-based fragrances one’s own individuality and much like ‘bespoke’ tailoring, small. www.scenterprises.com
6 GLOW SPRING ‘10 Th e M a g a z i n e A b o u t B e a u t y , H e a l t h A n d We l l n e s s GLOW SPRING ‘10 Th e M a g a z i n e A b o u t B e a u t y , H e a l t h A n d We l l n e s s 6