From The Incense Roads of Morocco to Today's Modern Perfumeries by liuqingyan


									                                            s someone who has been in the Cosmetic & Fra-                sels ornamented with bronze or silver passementerie trim

                                                                                                                                                                                         trends l fragrance — everything old is new again
From The Incense Roads             A        grance Industry for the past 30 years, and is now
                                            offering Multi-Sensory Custom Perfume Experi-
                                   ences, I was eagerly anticipating my sojourn to Fez and
                                                                                                         are a visual and tactile delight as are the ‘Aladdin’ slippers,
                                                                                                         candles with iconic Moroccan pierced shapes such as the
                                                                                                         Hamsa (hand) and archways, tagines, and brightly colored

of Morocco to Today’s
                                   Marrakech in Morocco to experience the sensorial delights             ceramic pottery. The splendid multi-hued rugs and carpets
                                   I have read about for years. And what an experience it was!

                                   The history of Morocco is fascinating. The ancient city

Modern Perfumeries
                                   walls in Fez are from the 9th century and ironically they
                                   refer to the 14th Century as the New City! The historical

                                   aspects of the various places we visited are extraordinary
                                   but the memories and visions I have are of the intoxicating

Everything Old is New Again!       aromas still hovering around my nostrils and wafting in
                                   the air. In addition, the colors, and intricate patterns of the
                                   mosaic tiles, the architec-
By Sue Phillips
                                   ture and archways, and
                                   sounds in the market
                                   places are all enthralling
                                                                                                                                              hanging outside the souks
                                   sensory delights which
                                                                                                                                              and in the magnificent guest
                                   I shall remember for the
                                                                                                                                              houses or Riads showcase
                                   rest of my life.
                                                                                                                                              these priceless masterpieces.

                                   From a multi-sensory                                                                                       Silk and wool carpets along-

                                   standpoint, the Souks                                                                                      side brightly striped patterned
                                                                                                                                              Kilim Berber rugs vie for at-
                                                                                                                                              tention next to the intricate
                                                                                                         ornate weaves. Guests are always invited to have mint tea
                                                                                                         while proud merchants present their ‘wares’ and despite the
                                                                                                         Moroccans liking their tea very sweet, our preference was
                                                                                                         for the natural flavor of the mint tea without sugar.

                                                                                                         The correlation between taste and smell is so intertwined
                                                                                                         and the sights, sounds, smells, colors, and amazing multi-
                                                                                                         sensory delights are unparalleled.

                                                                                                         “Pharmacias” and Herborists display their herbs and spices
                                                                                                         in large hessian sacks outside the stores. Inside, the color-
                                   (markets) in the Medinas are extraordinary. One’s senses              ful apothecary bottles of ground spices and herbs are
                                   come alive and are constantly delighted — the “ooooh’s and            interspersed with various multi-colored henna powders, saf-
                                   aaaaah’s’” are well deserved.                                         fron from the crocus flower and other mystical ingredients
                                                                                                         of roots, herbs and barks beckon us to try them!
                                   The markets are ablaze with bright hues and gradated
                                   colors in various shades of reds, oranges, purples, greens,           Large displays of amber, musk, jasmine, sandalwood, in-
                                   turquoise, yellows, blues, and pinks and are abundant in              cense and anise plants are abundant and it is easy to see
                                   every conceivable product… Moroccan silk scarves, always              why new perfumes are now incorporating these ancient
                                   intertwined with flecks of gold thread glinting through the           and traditional ingredients into modern perfumery… thus
                                   magnificent weaves and patterns. Luscious heavy silk tas-             everything old is new again!

                                                                                       GLOW SPRING ‘10 Th e M a g a z i n e A b o u t B e a u t y , H e a l t h A n d We l l n e s s 6
Perfume Fragrance Trends —                                                                                                                     and lets us enjoy the world of sensual arousal or spiritual           customized perfumes are making headway due to the con-

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     trends l fragrance — everything old is new again
Ingredients from the past used in perfumery today.                                                                                             elevation – depending on the intention.                               fusion in the marketplace about so many celebrity, designer,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     singer, actress, sports figure and even brandy companies
Fragrant goods were established throughout Arabia and                                                                                          Musk is the name originally given to a substance with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     offering eponymous perfumes. Also from an economic
the Middle East long before 1500 BC. The ‘incense route’                                                                                       a penetrating odor obtained from a gland of the male
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     standpoint, today’s consumer still loves fragrance but wants
of the Roman Empire, from Arabia to the Indian Ocean                                                                                           musk deer. Until the late 19th century, natural animal musk
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     to ensure that their fragrance purchase is relevant, and
burgeoned as the demand for incenses and fragrances in-                                                                                        was used extensively in perfumery until economic and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     wants to wear something that is representative of their
creased. The people of Arabia created their own perfumes                                                                                       ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk, which
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           own tastes, and
using ingredients such as oud, sandalwood, musk, roses,                                                                                        is used almost
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           reflects their
and incense. Today, those fragrant ingredients are prevalent
in modern perfumery.
                                                                                                                                               exclusively to-
                                                                                                                                               day. ‘Muscone’
                                                                                                                                                                      It was in the 10th Century AD that the first                                                         unique brand

Few perfume oils have the mystique of Oud. Made from the
                                                                                                                                               is the organic            perfume extract was created when the                                                              called YOU.

                                                                                have been negatively associated as being ‘old-fashioned’       compound musk                                                                                                               In much the
fragrant resin found in Aquilaria trees, Oud is also referred
to as Agarwood, Aloeswood and Eaglewood. This is the
                                                                                perfumes. However, as with most ingredients, the classic       responsible for       process of distilling rose petals was improved.                                                       same way as
                                                                                Rose has been updated and paired with surprising               the characteris-                                                                                                            Voltaire the
Aloe spoken of in the Bible. It has been loved and treas-
                                                                                ingredients such as Violet Leaf, Clove Oil, Sandalwood and     tic odor but it is also compounded from plant extracts such           French philosopher said “I decide to be happy because its
ured for thousands of years, by mystics and romantics alike.
                                                                                Blackcurrant to give it a more exotic and sensual evocation.   as Angelica Root and Coriander. The substance has been                good for my health” fragrance brings joy and happiness.
                                                                                                                                               used since ancient times as a popular perfume fixative in             So, as a tribute to the quote that is framed outside the
                                                                                Amber is from Ambergris (not to be confused with the           base notes, and was one of the most expensive animal                  Marrakech Museum, enjoy fragrance as it brings happiness.
                                                                                fossilized or tree resin amber which is used for the           products in the world. The name, originated from Sanskrit             Be healthy and wear much fragrance!
                                                                                manufacture of ornamental objects and jewelry) — the           meaning “testicle,” has come to encompass a wide variety
                                                                                pleasant-smelling waxy substance washed up onto the            of substances with somewhat similar odors. The white
                                                                                ocean floor from the sperm whale after eating its favorite     musk accord itself is sweet, a bit indecent, and woody.
                                                                                food, cuttlefish, which irritated the stomach lining of the
                                                                                whale. The ambergris was produced as a counter-irritant.       Galbanum is an aromatic gum resin found in Persia and

                                                                                The sperm whale is an endangered species and today am-         one of the oldest drugs. In the 1100’s it was used in

                                                                                bergris oil is very expensive but still sought after by per-   incense as a way of bringing unrepentant and deliberate

                                                                                fumers. However, there are now synthetic varieties             sinners back to the ‘fold’. In the bible it is mentioned as

                                                                                of ambergris that are available. Fragrant amber is a combi-    being used in the making of a perfume for the Tabernacle.
Oud is proclaimed as an aid to spiritual meditation. Lovers                                                                                    Galbanum is used in perfumery to give a ‘leafy green’
                                                                                nation of several different botanical sources and is a very
use it as an aphrodisiac. Today it is becoming a very                                                                                          note and is found in perfumery for orientals and chypres —
                                                                                important fixative in perfumery. Amber is used in both
popular ingredient in modern perfumery, and as one Caliph                                                                                      Le Must de Cartier , Chanel 19, and Lancome’s Magie
                                                                                men’s and women’s perfumery and is known as ‘The
stated, “If I were a merchant I would trade only in OUD                                                                                        Noire are classics and Tom Ford’s Italian Cypress has
                                                                                King of Scents’. It helps one to let go of daily stresses
perfume, so that if I did not make a profit I would have                                                                                       notes of galbanum.
profited from its sensational scent”.
                                                                                                                                               Despite many different ingredients gaining and diminishing
Current perfumes by Kilian, Tom Ford, Trish McEvoy and                                                                                         in popularity over the years, to cater to varying consumer’s
many others have incorporated sensuous Oud into their                                                                                          tastes, perfumery will always be inspired by natural and
fragrance concoctions.                                                                                                                         organic flowers, roots, herbs and spices. Thanks to the
                                                                                                                                               ever increasing technology employed by perfumers, many                Sue Phillips, President of Scenterprises, Ltd., is an
Rose oil, meaning either rose otto (attar of rose, attar of
                                                                                                                                               of the world’s finest ingredients which are no longer able to         International Fragrance Expert who has created, devel-
roses) or rose absolute, is the essential oil extracted from
                                                                                                                                               be sourced due to extinction or to animal protectionism, are
the petals of various types of rose. Extraction is either                                                                                                                                                            oped and launched perfumes for Tiffany’s, Burberry,
                                                                                                                                               now available due to synthetic, and aromatic compounding.
through steam distillation or solvent extraction. Rose oils                                                                                                                                                          Trish McEvoy and others. Scenterprises, Ltd. provides
are still perhaps the most widely used essential oil in                                                                                        One of the key trends today is to craft scents that reflect           “custom Perfume experiences” for groups, large and
perfumery, but in recent years, rose-based fragrances                                                                                          one’s own individuality and much like ‘bespoke’ tailoring,            small.

6 GLOW SPRING ‘10 Th e M a g a z i n e A b o u t B e a u t y , H e a l t h A n d We l l n e s s                                                                                                    GLOW SPRING ‘10 Th e M a g a z i n e A b o u t B e a u t y , H e a l t h A n d We l l n e s s 6

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