Wyndham Meadows Landscape Corner May 15th, 2007 Lawn Care Tips: form ruts over time. Also it makes your lawn Well by now your lawn should be green and attractive! If you take notice, this is what the growing like a hayfield! A well established lawn at golf courses do (and not just for the looks)! this time of year will grow about 4” to 5” in a week. Mulch or Bag? I am a big fan of mulching The unfortunate part of wanting a great looking when you can and if done correctly. Mulching lawn is the maintenance of mowing. However for takes the nutrients in the grass blades and those of the less physical type, I guess that is why allows them to return to your soil thru lawn mowing services exist. Either way proper decomposing for the roots to take up again. mowing is important to a healthy lawn. Here are Good use of your fertilizer dollar! It also some important tips: helps moisture from evaporating to quickly Your mower height should be a minimum of out of the soil. First make sure you mower 3” to 3.5” for bluegrass or fescue lawns (we has a mulching blade. Typically the have all have this type). To ensure you have proper some type of serration or offset that helps height, place your lawnmower on your double/triple chop the grass clippings. If you driveway and measure from the concrete to need to purchase one you can go to Lowe’s or the bottom lip of your mowing deck. HomeDepot and buy the average type mulcher Sharpen your mower blade! This is blade. For the advanced yard pro want-a-be important as a dull blade damages your leaf you can purchase the Gator Mulcher blade blades of your lawn. It tears it verses cutting froom www.mowproducts.com or it clean off. This tear does not heal properly www.jackssmallengines.com. The top picture and allows fungus and viruses (diseases) to is a gator blade. enter your lawn. When to mow? Mow when the lawn is dry. Simply go out and drag your hand thru your lawn if your hand is wet – wait!!! Mowing when wet makes a mess under your mower deck and forms clumps of grass clippings that do not break down as well. Also for those that have riding mowers, heavily wet soils will I do not mulch if I leave clumps on the lawn. compact easier under the weight of your riding Switch to bagging. The clumps will not mower. This compaction squeezes the air out breakdown quick enough and will suffocate of the soil and will cause your roots to suffer. your lawn underneath leaving yellow patches. How to mow? Alternate the direction in Excessive mulching heavily will build up a which you mow each time you mow. There is thatch layer that then also prohibits air and no excuse for not cutting in at least four nutrients (fertilizer) from getting down to the different patterns…long ways, diagonally, root zone. Therefore, it will be inevitable to a shortways, and reverse diagonally. Using this healthy lawn to occasionally bag. Mulch mowing tip, you will prevent your grass from when you can. "getting into a rut" (literally). If your lawnmower wheels pass over the same area in More Tips on next Page the same direction each time you mow, they'll Grub Control Time: amazes me the amount of people that starve their I am a little late in telling you this. The month of lawns or feel one application of fertilizer is all it May is all about Grub Control. If you have not needs. I drive by some of the lawns and they are done so, get out and by some grub control and get it simply crying! If your lawn isn’t a dark green color applied ASAP. The product of choice for me is with 4” to 5” of growth a week, your lawn needs Bayer Advanced Crub Control with Merit. You can food! If you are one of these I strongly recommend purchase this at Lowe’s. in early June to help your lawn grow roots. Good roots will help with efficient water uptake and help survive the blasted heat coming in July/August. To do this apply a fertilizer blend with higher P (phosphorus) & K (Potassium), 2 key minerals for root development. Remember each bag of fertilizer is mark with: N-P-K 24-6-11 Again I would recommend for most of those that Another locally available type is GrubEx by Scotts need to build roots to go to HomeDepot and which is sold by Home Depot. purchase LESCO starter fertilizer 24-?-11 and/or general-all-purpose fertilizer 12-12-12. If you stick with the same manufacture you can blend the two to get higher P&K values. As you may tell, I am not a big fan off Scotts brand as their fertilizer blends are ground fine and have higher nitrogen ratings. This means the fertilizer does not last as long but it does green up your lawn faster. If not applied correctly the higher (N) nitrogen can cause burn spots. Don’t get me Most of the grubs that we have are a result of the wrong, good lawns do require increase nitrogen, I Japanese Beetle (June Bug). They spend 10 months just prefer the type that releases slower over time. of their life in the soil and 2 months (late may to IF the last two paragraphs were too confusing for early July) as bugs. In Oct thru Feb they move you simply go out to Home Depot or Lowe’s and deeper into the soil for winterization. Thus buy some starter fertilizer or Scott’s turf builder chemical treatments are less effective at this time. type and get it applied! In April the start migrating towards the surface, which is why now is a great time to apply your grub Broadleaf Weed Control: Guess I could control. (see chart below). review broadleaf weed control again, because those broadleaf weeds are sure growing great right now. Even the dopes in the crowd can identify the dandelion, the easiest of all broadleaf weeds to control. Chickweed is another easy-to-control weed, as well as identify. Henbit (purple top) is not as well known, and a bit nastier than the aforementioned weeds. Speedwell (Veronica spp.) is tougher to ID, often times mistaken for chickweed, and it’s the toughest yet of the weeds discussed thus far. Everybody knows what clover Heads-up! June Fertilization: looks like, and it’s only tough-to-control because You will hear me say again and again. Healthy most products lack the necessary ingredient. A roots make a healthy lawn. Your lawn, just like “Weed-Be-Gone®” type of formulation will take all you, requires food and water to survive. It simply these invaders out of your lawn, as long as they contain the active ingredient, dicamba. Check the label. It’ll probably say, “sumthing sumthing salt of…dicamba”. Be sure before you buy, and apply it the way the manufacturer tells you to. Sprays are much, much more effective than fertilizer-based products. You listening? Don’t waste your time using dry products. Plus, those dry products contain way too much nitrogen for springtime applications! Tree/Landscape beds: I have had a few of you ask about Tree care tips. Triming – I realize that the late spring frost may have caused some damage to trees and shrubs. When this happens don’t be to quick to trim. I too was surprised how well some of my limbs gave birth to new leaves when left along. If you do not see new growth by end of May and the branches are brittle – go ahead and trim them off. Also you should be trimming off any sucker branches growing out from the trunks or around the base of the tree. Make sure to make a clean cut to keep infection from setting in. Ornamental Grasses and dead foliage from your flower beds should be trimmed back and racked out. Fertilize with an all purpose 12- 12-12 type fertilizer before mulching. Tree fertilizer – Young trees those smaller than 4” thick trunks can benefit from having Tree Fertilizer spikes put in. You can buy these at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Simply dig a hole about 12” deep and insert spike. Follow instructions on package for placement. I urge you to print this off and share with your neighbors as we do not have everyone’s email address. If you would like to make sure you are on the distribution list send your email address to the Wyndham Meadow homeowners association email at email@example.com.
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