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					Hair Extensions The Safe Way


So you want to get Hair Extensions but you've heard the horror stories and you're petrified that
you'll end up bald, ugly and a lot poorer when it's all over?

Well, if you don't do your homework then of course this could happen. But there's a way to have
beautiful hair using Hair Extensions without damaging your own hair, and in fact allowing your
natural hair to grow longer and healthier in the process.

Where Do I Start?

There are many different types of Hair Extensions on the market, but for the sake of simplicity
we will focus on two main types of application methods: Individual Strands and Wefts

Individual Strand Extensions
The Individual method involves taking small amounts (maybe 20-50 strands) of extension hair (natural or
synthetic, but we'll get to that later) and applying to small sections of your own hair by either weaving
in, heat fusing, gluing, clamping with metal rods or using waxes and polymers. All of these methods
(except for the clamping which is self explanatory) involve coating your own hair with a chemical or
foreign substance.

These extensions usually only last a few months before they have to be taken out and completely
re-done. The main problem with this method is taking the Hair Extensions out without damaging
your own hair.

Many people who sell this method to clients will swear that there is no damage to your own hair,
but one hair extension expert told me that "in 17 years of doing hair extensions we have yet to
see a client who has previously had the individual method applied without damage to their own
hair. Without spelling it out I will leave it to your imagination what might happen to your own
hair if you melt some plastic onto it or glue or clamp something to it".

Note: For a more detailed explanation of the Individual method check out "Get Clip in Hair
Extensions The Good, The Bad and The Ugly".

So, enough about the Individual method, what I'm writing to tell you about is the way to have
gorgeous hair instantly without damage. But first, a little about hair.

get clip in hair extensions
Good Hair, Bad Hair - What's The Difference?

method of application, the quality of your hair extension hair will determine whether or not they
will look real, and how long they will last.

Please Note: The following comments on hair quality are meant as a guide only and are relevant
to matching the hair strands of Caucasian people. The Asian and African hair strand is different
in texture and structure and these comments may not apply. A trusted Hair Extensions artist with
experience dealing with the African hair strand will be able to give you the best advice in
matching your hair with the extensions.

Bad Hair - Anything Synthetic

Unless you want to look like you've got a shredded plastic bag stuck to your head avoid it at all
times. Synthetic Hair is basically plastic and will NEVER look like you grew it (unless you are
12 inches tall and your name is Barbie). Synthetic hair is however, great for dreadlocks - but
that's another story.

Not Great Hair - Asian Hair (unless you are Asian)

This hair is a course hair strand and grows naturally very dark (black) and very very straight. Use
it if you are Asian and you do not color your hair and you want the sleek, dark look. Only buy
Asian hair that has been colored/permed if you don't expect to wear the extensions for a long
time and you can't afford anything else.

O.K Hair - European Quality Hair

This is basically NOT European Hair but is the best of the Asian, Pakistani, Indian hair. Same as
the above. Don't expect it to last.

Good Hair - European Hair

This hair mostly comes from southern Italy and Spain and usually is grown very dark. Some of it
is naturally straight, some naturally wavy. European Hair is what most people use for
Extensions. It is durable and looks good and it will last up to a year if cared for properly.

All of the Human Hair above starts off very dark then has it's color stripped back to nothing and
then it is re-tinted (usually using fabric dyes not hair color) to all the shades available. This
means that if you want platinum blonde hair it has gone through a massive chemical process to
get to that color. One of the main disadvantages of all these types of hair is the inability to
change your color. Because of the chemical processes the hair has already gone through before
you even see it, putting hair color on top of it will cause the hair to break down and fall apart. So,
if you use any of these qualities of hair make sure you are certain you have chosen the right color
or color blend.

If you have highlighted (streaked) hair make sure you have your weft maker recreate your
highlights (using different colors) in the wefts so that they match your own hair.

The Best Hair - Raw/Virgin Hair?

Does Russian hair really exist or it is the result of great marketing spin and hype? Long term
industry hair traders often express the opinion that unless there is a paper trail to absolutely prove
the existence of "Russian hair", it doesn't exist.

Sellers of Russian hair claim this hair is like gold, but is it really? Or does it just cost as much as
gold nuggets? Many years ago before Russia, Poland and surrounding areas were modernized,
hair from these locations were more readily available, as communism fell, natives of these two
countries started cutting, coloring and chemically treating their hair which rendered it no longer
viable for hair extensions.

Many hair dealers question whether hair deals that claim that Russian hair is is grown in places
near the Arctic Circle is fact or fiction. Whereas genetic factors may have ensured that this hair
was of the utmost quality before the fall of Communism, modernization may have ended the
guarantee of this quality.

According to Russian Hair marketing gurus, this hair has been grown for generations by the
same families specifically to be cut and sold. It has never been chemically treated in any way
(blonde hair is grown on a blonde head) and as such is much better suited to coloring and
perming if necessary.

What is not mentioned is that ALL hair imported into the United States must be boiled and
processed to meet US import standards. Which means the hair is no longer virgin since it has
been treated for importation.

If you are determined to acquire what is known as Russian hair, if it really is Russian, ask for
iron clad paperwork to prove the origins of the hair. Why? Hair marketed as "Russian" will be
extremely expensive and it is important that you are indeed getting hair from Russia. If the hair
broker can't prove conclusively the origins of the hair, beware.

If you can prove the hair is truly Russian and have the deep pockets to purchase it, than by all
means give it a try.
Wefts - Hand Made or Machine Made?

What is a weft? A weft looks like a little curtain of hair attached together at the top and free
flowing at the bottom. Wefts can be made by machine, but the best wefts are handmade. Your
Extensions artist should be able to make them for you. The benefit of having them handmade is
that you can match your own hair color perfectly as the color can be blended in the making

Machine made wefts come in continuous widths and are then cut to size. Handmade wefts are
custom made to suit your head perfectly. Handmade wefts tend to last much longer and are
generally thicker than machine made ones. Machine made wefts are usually made from the lesser
qualities of hair and very rarely can you find European Hair machine made wefts. You cannot
buy virgin hair machine made wefts.

The basic choices come down to quality and price. If you want your hair to look real go for at
least European hand made wefts, and if you can afford it (and find it - it is very rare) definitely
go for the raw/virgin hair. We exclusively deal with hand made wefts from raw/virgin hair.

How Is It Applied?

O.K. You've got your hair - what now? Wefts are attached to your head by sewing them to a tiny
braid (we will call it a track from now on) made out of your own hair. The track (known to
hairdressers as a corn-row) runs horizontally around the back of your head. The tracks are done
in the middle of your scalp underneath your hairline so you can't see them.

The crown area of your own hair covers the top track making the extensions seem invisible. The
number and size of tracks matches the number and size of wefts. The wefts and tracks ideally
should be made in different sizes in order to match exactly the way your hair would look if you
had grown it that way yourself.

Depending upon how much hair you need depends on how many tracks you have. For example:
If I had hair to my chin and I wanted hair to my bra line (about 18" long) I might need 5 or 6
tracks/wefts depending upon my current haircut. If I had hair to my shoulders that was thin and
stringy and I wanted it thicker and more luscious but the same length I might need 2 or 3 (or
more) tracks/wefts.

Once the tracks are done, the wefts are sewn to them and then your own crown area hair is
blended with and combed over the extensions. From now on you have to think of the extensions
How Do I Look After Them?

You look after Hair Extensions the same as you would do long hair that you grew yourself. If
you have never been able to grow your hair long before it is probably because you are killing it
just as quickly as it grows. Here's a few tips:

   1. Wash, condition and MOISTURIZE (very important) your hair every 2 - 3 days. The extensions do
      not receive your natural scalp oils and so need to have moisture added every wash. If you don't
      moisturize your hair extensions they will become brittle and break easily leading to split and
      ratty ends. We recommend a good moisturizer for Hair Extensions.

   2. Treat them with respect. They will not grow back if you yank at them with a brush, burn them
      with the blow dryer, kill them with chemicals. Be nice to them - they cost a lot of money so
      make sure you get your money's worth.

   3. Always brush out all knots before you wash your hair, swim, or sleep. Start at the bottom and
      work your way up slowly using a paddle brush.

   4. Make sure you wash in between the braids to keep your scalp clean and free of bacteria.

What Happens Next?

Every 6-8 weeks (average) your own hair will have grown about 1 to 1 1/2 inches. The braids
will still be intact and the wefts will still be attached to the braids. At this time you will need to
return to your Extensions Artist and have the wefts removed from the braids and checked for any
product build up, damage etc. The braids are then undone and redone back against your scalp and
the same wefts sewn back on to the new braids. Voila! You look beautiful again.

Hair Extensions F.A.Q's

How long can my extensions be?

You can have any length you want up to about 26"-30". Any natural hair over this length is about
8 - 10 years old at the ends (i.e. it took the person that long to grow it for you) and as such loses
quality. Also, anything longer than this puts extra weight on your scalp which may lead to
uneven pressure and damage to your own hair. The best looking hair extensions for average
height women are usually around 22" or less. Our most popular length is 18" which is to your bra

How much are they?

How long is a piece of string? Someone will do it for you for a few hundred dollars while others
will charge thousands. Ask questions.
Work out what kind of hair you need. Look at your budget. Remember - there is upkeep costs
involved and these may range anywhere from $20 to $60 per track every 6-8 weeks. Don't pay
thousands of dollars for cheap hair. Don't expect good hair for peanuts. Make sure you see the
exact hair to be used first. You will pay more for better quality hair (European or Virgin) and
you will pay more for hand made wefts. I believe it is best to get the best possible product and
for that you will pay a premium price. But your hair will look great, it will last and you will feel

Can I wear my hair up?

Sure, the Extensions should not be applied any lower than the base of your scalp (about even
with the middle of your ears) and so your hair under this point covers the extensions while you
wear it in pigtails, ponytails, french twists, french braids etc.

How do I know my Extensions Artist is a professional?

Now this is a hard one. Anyone can lie to you, so be aware. Ask to see photos (before/after). Ask
if you can contact one of his/her long term clients. Most hair extensions clients like to remain
anonymous but there is always at least one who would love to let the world know what a great
job they had done on their hair. Ask how often the average client needs to replace the hair (6
months, 2 years etc). After reading this article, if you know more than the Extensions artist then
go find another one.

Does it hurt? Will it pull my hair out?

No, no NO!!! If it hurts get out of there! The Extensions artist should braid the tracks firmly but
comfortably. The tension should be even all over your head with no points pulling or hurting. Do
not put up with someone telling you it has to be really tight in order to be secure. Pulling your
hair out is not the idea. You will know you have something on your head for the first day or two
but after that you won't even feel that they are there.

What about my re-growth. I'm a natural brunette but want blonde

Easy. The colorist just has to work around the extensions. This makes your color cheaper
because effectively you only color the crown and hairline. It also means that the hair in the braid
remains virgin and when you eventually have the extensions off your own hair is in brilliant

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