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   www.londonfashionweek.co.uk                                                   L O N DO N , WeDN es Day 17 t h s epte m b e r 2 0 0 8                                                                                                    Issue • 3




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Giles’s ladies: Liberty Ross, Raquel Zimmermann and Missy Rayder
Girls, Girls, Girls                                                                                                       High Five                                                                        Column
                                                                                                                                                                 “It respects London as a leading
                                                                                                                                                                 creative capital and Milan as
                                                                                                                                                                 capital of the Italian fashion


R e p o rt by La uren Co c hra ne       a ballgown parade past, one can           and Hacienda architect Ben Kelly.
                                                                                                                          R ep or t b y J enny D y s o n


                                                                                                                          The squeeze is over. At a meeting
                                                                                                                                                                 system – platform for ‘Made in
                                                                                                                                                                 Italy’ and supplier of quality
                                                                                                                                                                 textiles to designers worldwide.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                           McDowell
P h o to g r a phy by A nna Ba uer      almost forget they contain Lily           “That’s where the colours came          yesterday between the Big Four             New York’s representative,            R e p o r t b y C o l i n McD o w e l l
                                        Donaldson, Christina Kruse, Lara          from,” says Deacon. “I love that        fashion capitals, an agreement         Diane Von Furstenberg, said: “We
Waiting for Giles to start, front row   Stone and Raquel Zimmermann.              acid yellow.”                           was reached to secure London           all agree it is very important            Boys are different from girls. Even
guests Mischa Barton, Samantha              “We wanted to have a good                 This era was also the inspiration   Fashion Week’s slot on the global      to preserve London Fashion Week.          fashion boys. They’re not as tough,
Cameron and Daisy Lowe got the          combination of girls,” said Deacon        for some of the poppier elements of     fashion calendar.                      It provides the pool of talent we         for a start. Take the Downing Street
flashbulbs popping. Once the            post show. “Christina Kruse is 39,        the show – from the Space Invaders          “I am so delighted with the        all benefit from.”                        party on a chilly night. I arrived at
lights went down, however, it was       like me, but I think she looks as         motif to the supersized ghost           outcome of this meeting,” said a           Hilary Riva was smiling, too.         the same time as plucky Elizabeth
all about the clothes.                  good as the 19-year-olds.” Kruse          character on the catwalk. As for the    smiling Harold Tillman, chairman       “We are really pleased by the             Saltzman. She looked fab in a white
    That’s no surprise. When a gold-    was also the right age to join            biker detailing, who knows? “I just     of the British Fashion Council,        endorsement and recognition               sleeveless dress. We waited in the
and-camouflage fitted pencil-skirt      Deacon on the nostalgia trip that         like sportswear,” says Deacon, “and     last night. “It has brought our        that there needed to be a clear           security queue. It was more than a
dress, acid-coloured knitted dresses    formed the inspiration – 1988,            I thought it looked really cool.”       fashion capitals closer together.      uninterrupted space for London            bit parky, but the immensely brave
with biker-style shoulders and          Pac-Man, designer Peter Saville           Guess what? He was right.               We are all united by one aim and       Fashion Week to strut its stuff,”         Elizabeth was totally unconcerned.
                                                                                                                          one global industry. We recognise      she said. “The outcome is fair            She might as well have been in
                                                                                                                          and respect the strength of each       for everyone.” Lest we forget,            Florida. And the party? Snooper’s

Goldin Girl                             layered this superfine fabric –
                                        almost invisible to the naked eye,
                                        five-metres of which weigh less
                                                                                                                          others’ cities and will continue
                                                                                                                          to collaborate together to protect
                                                                                                                          and grow our industry.”
                                                                                                                                                                 according to fashion veterans, for
                                                                                                                                                                 23 of its 25 years LFW has been
                                                                                                                                                                 a five-day event.
                                                                                                                                                                                                           paradise, darling! Eyes everywhere,
                                                                                                                                                                                                           noting everything. “Bit shabby...
                                                                                                                                                                                                           Just like a hotel... That carpet could
R e p o rt by Bec k y Da vis            than an egg – with her trademark                                                      The new agreement allows               Immediately following the             do with a good clean...” But, and
P h o to g r a phy by A lista ir G uy   knitwear. Long flesh-coloured                                                     New York to move its slot back,        fashion calendar discussion, the          this is another boy/girl difference,
                                        shift dresses were layered beneath                                                satisfying the needs of its own        BFC took the invited Milan and            the surroundings had an amazing
Louise Goldin’s status as star-         “Lego” bras and sheer bodysuits                                                   designers while ensuring a full        New York fashion-week captains            effect on every woman’s bladder.
in-the-making was confirmed             were woven into soft jacquards.                                                   five-day slot for London from          on a tour of the Model Sanctuary.         Suddenly, they all needed the
yesterday, after showing a beautiful        “The collection is a mix of this                                              September 2009 onwards. For            “It is a brilliant facility,” Diane Von   bathroom. You know the old
collection that was a dramatic          ghostly transparent fabric and knit                                               February 2009, the CFDA, Camera        Furstenburg said during the tour.         saying, “A bathroom tells you
step forwards. It was almost as         – but very light layers,” said Goldin.                                            Della Moda and Fédération              “Both New York and Milan would            everything about a woman”? So,
if this newcomer had grown-up           The only production hurdle was                                                    Française de la Couture agreed         love to see this concept replicated       it was check-up time. Not. Did
10 seasons in one. “I was looking       communicating with the Japanese                                                   to work closely with the BFC           in their own cities, to ensure            they really think that Sarah was
to integrate a print with my            fabric makers. “Translation via                                                   to ensure show schedules cater         models can be given similar               going to let them find out where
knitwear,” said Goldin. “One of my      our interns at silly o’clock in the                                               to London’s needs.                     support and care throughout the           she buys her soap and towels. It
interns found a swathe of organza       morning was a nightmare,” she                                                         “We appreciate this solution,”     fashion calendar.” Well then, it          was strictly “Visitors’ Toilets This
in a Japanese reference book and        said, “but we got there in the end.”                                              said Mario Boselli, Milan’s            seems it’s time for fashion high          Way”. The men, however, seemed
we tracked it down.” Goldin then                                                                                          Camera Della Moda’s chairman.          fives all round.                          to have no problem in containing
                                                                                                                                                                                                           their excitement. Apart from

                                                                                                                          Seasonal                               difficulties of one-piece dressing a
                                                                                                                                                                                                           Monsieur Macdonald, draped in a
                                                                                                                                                                                                           Union Jack. Not a look I would dare

                                                                                  Maude & Doris                           Hangover                               reality for another season, spotted       to wear, even in the confines of my
                                                                                                                                                                 at Adidas by Stella McCartney,            bananamobile.
                                                                                                                                                                 Ossie Clark and Jaeger London.                The book launch of Michael
                                                                                  A fashionable children’s tale for       R ep or t b y L a uren C o ch r a n    Eccentric heels, a hottie for this        Roberts’s Fashion Victims at
                                                                                  grown-ups. Created by David
                                                                                  Longshaw, with Jenny Dyson.                                                    season and cranked higher for             Hamiltons Gallery across town
Cupcakes by The Hummingbird Bakery




                                                                                  Photography by George Bamford           New season, new clothes – or           next, proved popular again – cue          was a more decorous affair. The
                                                                                                                          so you might think. Instead,           crocodile- and rhino-inspired             audience was 80 per cent male,
                                                                                  Maude (in Roksanda Ilinic)              designers at LFW are proving           shoes complete with horns at              most of whom I suspect had
                                                                                  doesn’t feel she needs a                that, in these frugal fashion times,   Christopher Kane; Emma Cook’s             mistaken this charming and witty
                                                                                  psychiatrist but hears they are         it doesn’t always pay to throw out     frilly platform heels; Luella’s nod       book for something much more
                                                                                  frightfully fashionable, so has         a trend with a new season. The         to the Glam-rock aesthetic; and           appealing to their tastes. I was
                                                                                  asked her friend Mildred to be          ones that work evolve to become        PPQ’s brick-like platforms. “We           amused by the title of Michael
                                                                                                                          a part of the next one, too.           asked the assistants to look for          Roberts’s collaboration with Dolce
                                                                                  hers. For the occasion of some
                                                                                                                              See lace – rearing its holey       delicate footwear,” laughs PPQ’s          & Gabbana, unveiled last night at
                                                                                  front-row therapy, Mildred
                                                                                                                          head on the s/s catwalk at Spijkers    Amy Molyneux, looking at the              the new menswear store. The Good
                                                                                  sports Lanvin.                          en Spijkers, Charles Anastase and      shoes. “That’s what they came             Shepherd? Frankly, he looks to me
                                                                                                                          Luella. Jumpsuits, making all the      back with.”                               a very naughty shepherd, indeed.

                                                                      To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
02 •                                                                       L O N DO N , WeDN es Day 17 t h s epte m b e r 2 0 0 8                                                               www.londonfashionweek.co.uk                                                   www.londonfashionweek.co.uk                                                      LONDON, We DNe sDay 17 t h se pte mbe r 2008                                                                                                                                     • 03




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Catwalk
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Adidas
Hats Off                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Live
                                                                            skimmed the contours of the               Having worked on shoots
                                                                            model’s face; a cone-shaped
                                                                            headpiece trailing with floor-
                                                                                                                  with Nick Knight, Katy England
                                                                                                                  and Katie Grand, the 25-year-                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  by Stella
                                                                            length ribbons, and a pillar-box
                                                                            red rimmed hat reminiscent of
                                                                            planetary rings. “The collection
                                                                                                                  old former hairdresser moved
                                                                                                                  into millinery three years ago.
                                                                                                                  The       London-born        designer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Barometer                                                                                                                                                                                                                          McCartney


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Highlights
R e p o rt by La uren Co c hra ne    mind) walked into another world        is based on a fantasy of mine,        quickly scored commissions                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     “I loved the Olympics,” grinned Stella
                                                                                                                  from Kylie Minogue, the Rambert




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Photography by Alistair Guy
                                     – one refreshingly different from      where a pandemic in the eleventh                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     McCartney after an exuberantly
   The venue for Nasir Mazhar’s      the sunny styles portrayed on          century means treatment with          Dance Company and made a                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       action-packed presentation of her
debut presentation yesterday was     many spring/summer runways.            radiowaves. It then goes to           piece for Madonna to wear in a                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 sports line for Adidas, as
the Mecca for London’s after-dark    In the dimly lit room, an opera        religion in the fifteenth century,”   shoot styled by Dazed’s Nicola                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 demonstrated by athletes and
creativity: latterly BoomBox and     singer in red cardinal outfit and a    explained Mazhar of his reference-    Formichetti [the stylist behind the                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            dancers (the latter trained by
more recently Ponystep. Despite      pianist complete with Clockwork        packed millinery offering. “There’s   presentation]. “Everyone seems to                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              no-less-than body guru Tracy
it being a Tuesday afternoon,        Orange-style mask completed            not always a concept behind my        like it,” said Mazhar. “It’s weird for                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Anderson, responsible in part for
Mazhar’s work fitted right in.       the tableau of six models wearing      work – I make the story around        me, because I’ve been locked in a                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Ms McCartney’s own post-baby
   Based in the backroom,            jaw-dropping headpieces.               the hats, not the hats to fit round   room with it for so long I kind of                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             physique). The collection earned
behind a blackout curtain,              Other pieces included a             the story. There’s no desire to be    hate it by now,” he laughs. “I think                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           the designer a gold in technical
fashion’s finest (seven at a time,   Perspex astronaut’s helmet that        historically accurate.”               I need a hug.”                                                                                                                                                                                   BY SARAH BAILEY, DEPUTY EDITOR HARPER’S BAZAAR                                                                                                                                                performance and sexy insouciance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 categories yesterday. Plus a special

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Christopher                                                                                                                                                                                   mention in soundtrack, for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 mashing Toni Basil, Daft Punk and

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Kane                                                                                                                                                                                          Match of The Day pom-po-po-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 poms with such elan.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      As for the design direction?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   “I’m     quite   obsessed     with                                                                                                                                                            “It’s a little bit more urban, we’ve
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   dinosaurs,” laughed Christopher                                                                                                                                                               been looking at the city, with more
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Kane of an exquisitely executed                                                                                                                                                               black, but keeping the delicacy,”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   collection, that saw the designer                                                                                                                                                             said McCartney. Indeed, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   bring an almost couture level of                                                                                                                                                              signature dusty palette was
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   craftsmanship to playfully elegant                                                                                                                                                            evident, only this time with zings
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Crayola-hued gowns, constructed                                                                                                                                                               of neon coral, tomato and kelly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   from endless weightless silk                                                                                                                                                                  green to provide sharpness. While
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   circles, which did, indeed, riff on                                                                                                                                                           feminine-but-just-edgy-enough
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   the bumps down a dinosaur’s                                                                                                                                                                   touches, like the scallop hems and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   spine. “Quite cartoony – The                                                                                                                                                                  lace inserts on tennis skirts,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Flintstones, Bam Bam,” expanded                                                                                                                                                               rolled-hem shorts and over-the-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Kane about his influences                                                                                                                                                                     knee stirrup socks look set to win
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   backstage. “Lara Stone is the new                                                                                                                                                             new young fans to the line.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Raquel Welsh! And then it all gets
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   a bit fucked up... The hunter
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   becomes the hunted, which is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   what the marabou [shifts] was all
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Emma Cook
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   about.” There’s a wild animal                                                                                                                                                                 Constructivist photo-montage à la
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   passion in design right now, and                                                                                                                                                              Alexander Rodchenko inspired the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   great ape prints on Kane’s little                                                                                                                                                             sauvage/sweet animal prints that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   evening dresses were darkly                                                                                                                                                                   brought a touch of graphic
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   magnificent. As for his leopard-                                                                                                                                                              glamour to Emma Cook’s catwalk.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   print knits in livid hues, which                                                                                                                                                              “I cut and pasted pictures of circus
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   opened the show, these will surely                                                                                                                                                            animals and put party hats on the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   be aped the world over.                                                                                                                                                                       lions,” demurred the designer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 backstage. “Exotic and a bit funny,”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Eley Kishimoto                                                                                                                                                                                chipped in stylist Cathy Edwards,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 by way of clarification. Festive
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 fauna aside, Cook has always
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   The incredible hosiery and candy-                                                                                                                                                             trodden a line between East End
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   tot-coloured footwear could, one                                                                                                                                                              attitude and a lighter-hearted
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   feels, have starred in their own                                                                                                                                                              feminine way of dressing, producing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   catwalk collection. However, this                                                                                                                                                             decorative and eminently wearable
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   was a show that conjured a non-                                                                                                                                                               pieces that consistently swerve the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   specific era of childhood, with its                                                                                                                                                           saccharine, and this collection was
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   sunbleached colours, innocent                                                                                                                                                                 particularly strong. Ruffled, tiered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Let Them                             smock-shaped silhouettes, sweet,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   low-heeled shoes and, yes, those
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   trippy tights. There were pretty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and scallop-hemmed frocks came
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 in sober tones of sepia, khaki, brick
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and grey; a flapperish number

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Eat Cakes                            day dresses in brocade (a trend for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   spring), retina-buzzing rainbow
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 with metal chain fringing delivered
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 just the right dose of kink, while a




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Photography by Catwalking.com
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   butterfly damasks, a psychedelic                                                                                                                                                              shot-silk textured sheath brushed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Report by Jo Craven                  salamander motif on slinkier-than-                                                                                                                                                            with butterfly-wing blue-pink
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   usual jersey pieces and a last-                                                                                                                                                               iridescence was an absolute
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              First there were the piggy           minute appearance by a sexy                                                                                                                                                                   winner, fit for any trip uptown.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              meringues at the Luella show         motorcycle helmet in Eley                                                                                                                                                                     Meanwhile, the plastic rain capes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              (from Judges Bakery), then           Kishimoto’s famous Flash print (a                                                                                                                                                             studded with Swarovski crystals,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              news of more temptation swiftly      collaboration with Jérôme Coste at                                                                                                                                                            like giant water drops, could prove
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              followed. Fecund designers Alice     Ruby). Random perhaps, but it                                                                                                                                                                 the perfect edgy evening topper
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Temperley and Charlotte Dellal       looked damned good - a reminder                                                                                                                                                               for the young red carpet set;
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              are getting out the tablecloths to   that the Eley Kishimoto aesthetic                                                                                                                                                             no need even to wear bracelets...
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              serve afternoon teas. Charlotte      works best with a bit of tough                                                                                                                                                                the cuffs are studded with jewels.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Dellal (due in October) puts her     to temper the cute.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              signature cobweb-print on cup
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              cakes at the Trafalgar hotel this
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              afternoon. Alice Temperley (due
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              now!) has proper cream teas lined
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              up at her studio all week. For the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Celluloid                                     with its Trembled Blossoms film,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 advertising the s/s ’08 collection.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 LA designer Melissa Coker then
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        designer David Saunders, “and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        elevate my work a bit. This
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        collection is about conveying
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Tweety Pie                                                       an astringe dress – the feathers of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 which were so light they floated
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 off the hem; Todd Lynn took a break
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              truly greedy, there are three days
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              of gourmet heaven (invite only) at
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Anya Hindmarch. Not only is she
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Chic                                          debuted her line ‘Wren in New
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 York’ with a film featuring Karen
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Elson, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        a mood so a film works better – it’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        more intimate.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           To see this week’s most fashion-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                R e p ort b y B e cky Davi e s


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                “Tweet! Tweet! Tweet!” went the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 from his usual androgynous
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 shapes with a monochrome dress
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 covered in – yes, you guessed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              designing hampers for Selfridges,    R e p ort b y Lau re n C och ran e            Sarah Sophie Flicker. For s/s ’09,     able cinema releases, pitch up          soundtrack to Monday’s Jasper                                    it – feathers. Meanwhile, Nicole
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              but her showroom menu features                                                     couture-hat-label House of Flora       at Quaglino’s for Fashion East          Conran show. And Conran is not                                   Farhi’s were candy.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              waffles, Eggs Benedict, meringues    While there’s nothing like a                  daringly dabbles in womenswear         today at 2.30pm – and go to www.        the only bird-watching designer                                      And let us not forget that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              and brownie sundaes. Hindmarch’s     bunch of models wafting down                  with Dress No. 1, a very short film    showstudio.com/blog/29195.              to be channeling a big bird-theme                                fashion       boutique      Feathers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Sloane Street store will also have   the catwalk to get fashion                    previewing the collection. BFC         Don’t forget the popcorn.               this season.                                                     celebrates its fortieth birthday
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              a pop-up café catered by the         hearts beating, designers are                 New Gen sponsored by Topshop                                                       Feathers and birdlife in general                             with a party at the store tonight
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Primrose Bakery all next week. If    experimenting with other ways to              winner David David has swapped                                                 are a trend set to flutter into s/s                              – followed by late fun and games
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              the hungry can’t wait, be sure to    showcase their work this season.              a catwalk spot at Fashion East for                                             ’09. First up, Jaeger London’s sun-                              at The Wellington.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              stop in for canapés, pink fizz and   After presentations from the likes            a film put together with rising                                                kissed swallow-print blouses.                                        If you’re twitching to get along,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              vodka cocktails at Mulberry’s mini   of Mulberry, Nasir Mazhar and                 video director, Zaiba Jabbar.                                                  Julien Macdonald left his feather                                we suggest that, if you’re at all
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              presentations all day from 11am      Victoria Beckham, comes the film.             “I wanted to put a bit of passion                                              boa at home for one night only,                                  superstitious, you steer well clear
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              today. Undo that belt notch now.     Prada, of course, started the trend           into what I was doing,” says                                                   instead sending out a model in                                   of those peacocks!


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Lucia’s presence is a big deal    by it. I’ve also made the brows


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 BeAuty SPot
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and the backstage area is buzzing.     incredibly strong to give that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 “It’s my favourite makeup so far,      Amazonian touch.”




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Lucia Pieroni. Photography by Anna Bauer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 it’s powerful and womanly,” says           Africa was also the inspiration
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Raquel Zimmerman.                      at Nicole Farhi, but AD rather
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                                                                                                                                                                                                      Design Nick Steel and Sofia Leverbeck
                                                                                                                                                                                                      at HarrimanSteel and George Wu                                             The best kept beauty secret since 1926.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      “Christopher’s brief was Planet
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 of the Apes, prehistoric women
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        than BC. “It’s a woman who goes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        to Africa to try to find herself.

  schedule has                       to the key below:                      Cromwell Road, SW7
                                                                            TS:
                                                                                                                  6 Burlington Gardens, W1:
                                                                                                                  www.thedoll.org/onoff
                                                                                                                                                           editor Jenny Dyson
                                                                                                                                                           Consultant editor Cat Callender
                                                                                                                                                                                                      Chief-sub/copy editor Vicky Willan
                                                                                                                                                                                                      Printed on recycled paper
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 who were captured and taken
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 into the forest,” says Lucia. Where
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        She’s outdoorsy and a bit Tess
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        of the D’Urbervilles,” says MAC

  been created                       * BFC New Gen sponsored
                                     by Topshop
                                                                            TOPSHOP venue, P3
                                                                            University of Westminster,            Vauxhall Fashion Scout:
                                                                                                                                                           Advertising/managing editor
                                                                                                                                                           Jana Dowling
                                                                                                                                                                                                      by Guardian Print Centre , Rick Roberts
                                                                                                                                                                                                      Way, Stratford, London, E15 2GN                                         Report by Antonia Whyatt
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 most of us would have thought
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 mud and grunts, Lucia decided
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        makeup guru Val Garland, whose
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        hands look like an artist’s palette.

   exclusively                       ** BFC Fashion Forward
                                                                            Luxborough St, NW1                    Cnr Cromwell Road and
                                                                                                                  Queen’s Gate, SW7
                                                                                                                                                           Distributions manager Briony Hoare
                                                                                                                                                           editorial assistant Jessica Hannan
                                                                                                                                                                                                      Published for the BFC by RUBBISH
                                                                                                                                                                                                      020 8965 7469                                                           Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni is       Kane, Pieroni shifts things
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 to bring out the model’s bone
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 structure to give that slightly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        On them she has combined three
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        different cream blushes for the

  by illustrator                     supported by LDA                       On Schedule shows:
                                                                            www.londonfashionweek.co.uk           Schedule correct at time of
                                                                                                                  printing – for updates, contact
                                                                                                                                                           Production assistant Aislinn Dowling
                                                                                                                                                           Reporters Jo Craven, Becky Davies,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              usually too busy beautifying the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              likes of Madonna, Nicole Kidman,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Rachel Weisz and Cameron
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   around in the old diary. “I love
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Christopher’s clothes,” Pieroni
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   says enthusiastically, “and he’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 primal feel.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      She highlighted the cheeks,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 nose and cupid’s bow. “It’s all
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        cheeks and mixed purple and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        red on the lips. “I’m pressing it in,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        so it’s less goth and more spring.”
  ROB RYAN
                                                                                                                                                           Lauren Cochrane, Faran Krentcil,           With thanks to Ocado
                                                                            Off Schedule shows:                   the Timeline, on 020 7942 3900           Antonia Whyatt, Georgia Dehn               for feeding The LFW                                                     Diaz to do shows. But when the       just the nicest man on earth. Why             about light and shade. You can be
                                                                            www.blow.co.uk                                                                 Photography Alistair Guy and Anna Bauer    Daily team                                                              show in question is Christopher      wouldn’t I come?”                             hidden by makeup or enhanced           www.weleda.co.uk

                                                                 To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.londonfashionweek.co.uk                                                                                                                                                                                                         To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
04 •                                                      L O N DO N , WeDN es Day 17 t h s epte m b e r 2 0 0 8                                                                                                     www.londonfashionweek.co.uk                                                                                                                                                              www.londonfashionweek.co.uk                                                   LONDON, We DNe sDay 17 t h se pte mbe r 2008                                                                                                                                                             • 05


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  750 shops nationwide, it is the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    I Heard a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Estethica
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  longest-running charity, in terms
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  of shops, yet is fully aware of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  need to re-invent itself and make
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  the ethical concept alluring. “The                Rumour...




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Roksanda Ilincic and Nathalie Massenet
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  most important thing is making



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Goes Global
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Oxfam look nice. We’re green by                   R e p ort b y B e cky Davi e s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  operation and ethical by definition
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  – that’s a real no-brainer. But now               First we witnessed snow-washed




       Hilary Riva and Sarah Brown
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  we have a juxtaposition of old                    denim suits and backcombed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  and new clothing,” says Anna                      high ponytails at Topshop Unique,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Thorne, head of Oxfam’s retail                    then we were informed Henry
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             R e p ort b y Ni col a C op p i n g     behind this is thrilling.”                                                   development, pointing to a floral                 Holland has matched the pantone




                                                                                                                            Mr and Mrs Brown
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         The Estethica curators, Filippo                                          dress created by Giles Deacon                     for today’s Levi’s 501 range to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             It’s official: LFW is the world         Ricci and Orsola de Castro of the                                            from an old Eighties curtain.                     shade of denim on album cover




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Clara Mercer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             pioneer of ethical fashion. The         ethical brand From Somewhere,                                                    Jane Shepherdson, who has                     Deep Sea Skiver, and, now, fashion




                                                                                       Todd Lynn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Estethica concept – a unique            now vet any designers hoping to                                              worked alongside Oxfam, gave                      folk are working that look.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             micro-exhibition of international       form part of the exhibition. “We                                             Estethica her seal of approval,                   Bananarama, the new black?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             designers specialising in organic       look at the brand and decide if we                                           “This is much bigger and better.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             fashion, fairtrade and recycling with   like it. Then we start to look at its                                        The standard is a lot higher. It
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             a firm basis in beautiful aesthetics    ethical background,” they said.                                              must be a growing business – the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             – is being broached for New York            This equal focus on aesthetics                                           vetting business took twice as
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Fashion Week. The BFC is currently      and ethics shows just how much                                               long. It’s like a stone gathering




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Jenna Tibbals at Emma Cook, yesterday
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             in talks about transferring a similar   ethical fashion has grown-up.                                                moss.” The future’s bright, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             initiative across the Atlantic, and     “You’re going to trip over ethical                                           future’s ethical.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             also to Milan.                          fashion in every global market,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Estethica is one of the fastest     but guess what? London did it                                                P h otog rap h y: An n a B au e r
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             -growing sectors at LFW. It now         first,” says a defiant Riva. Ethical                                         S i tti n g s e d i tor: Ve ri ty P e mb e rton
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             comprises 35 designers, despite         fashion is no longer the preserve                                            Mod e l : T he LF W D aily’s inter n




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Philip Treacy and Nick Knight
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             being only in its second year,          of hemp bags and scratchy                                                    Aislinn Dowling. Dress by Minna,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             and, this season, is sponsored by       organic T-shirts. Instead, it has                                            stan d LC 2 4 . Ne ckl ace b y F i fi
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             the high-street store Monsoon.          become about beautiful design                                                Bijoux, stand LC42. Leather jacket
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             “Estethica has to have some kind        with an organic, fairtrade or                                                b y B l l ack Noi r, stan d LC 2 . C l u tch
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             of sustainability aspect to it,” says   recycling subtext.                                                           bag by Nahui Ollin, stand LC54.




                                                                                                                            Colin McDowell, Henry Holland, Sarah Brown and Gareth Pugh
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Hilary Riva, chief executive of the         Even Oxfam has sexed up.                                                 Socks by g=9.8, stand LC40. Shoes,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             BFC, “but more than that, it has        This is the first time it has been a                                         model’s own. All clothes can be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             to be great design. To have been        part of Estethica, after launching                                           se e n at th e B F C e ste th i ca s/s ’0 9
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             the first in the world to really get    its new boutiques in May. With                                               e xh i b i ti on sp ace at LF W




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  All Day                                           d) Stella’s hot husband,




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             and family with Susie
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Alasdhair Willis (by a gymnast’s




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Julien Macdonald
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    wayward kick)

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  I Dream                                           e) Natalia Vodianova, and she hit
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    back with her Vuitton Speedy,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    and then it was chaos

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  About Stella




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Menkes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    3. WHAT COLOUR IS NOT




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Nicole “Gorge Hair” Farhi
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    IN STELLA’S SPRING ’09
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Compiled by Faran Krentcil                        COLLECTION FOR ADIDAS?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    a) Green




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Betty Jackson and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Since the Stella McCartney for                    b) Purple
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Adidas presentation happened                      c) Orange




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Chris Moore
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  yesterday morning, off the                        d) Yellow
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Vincent Square school playing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  fields, it’s only right to re-cap her             4. WHICH SONG GOT ALL THE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  show with this pop quiz about                     AMERICAN EDITORS DANCING
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  the early morning party. Are you                  UNDER THE BALANCE BEAM?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  bringing your A-game to London                    a) “Around the World” by Daft
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Fashion Week? Take a quick shot                   Punk
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  at the questions and find out...                  b) “Hey Mickey” by Toni Basil
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    c) “Back in the USSR” by the
                                            Harold Tillman and Diane Von Furstenberg




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Russell Marsh. Photography by Anna Bauer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  1. WHO WAS WEARING                                Beatles
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  SNEAKERS AT THE STELLA                            d) “Do You Wanna” by the Kooks
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  BREAKFAST?
                                                                                                                            David Sims and wife Luella Bartley




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Naomi Campbell and Sarah Brown
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  a) Olympic athletes Victoria                      5. EXTRA CREDIT: WHAT CAN
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Pendleton and Allysen Felix                       YOU DO IN STELLA’S LONDON




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Photography by Will Matthews
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  b) Kate Moss                                      OFFICE?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  c) Alexandra Shulman                              a) Play golf on the roof
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    b) Smoke anywhere you want
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  2. WHO GOT WHACKED BY AN                          c) Create your own organic
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  UNSUSPECTING MODEL?                               lipstick
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  a) The Getty Images                               d) Record an album
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  photographer (by a girl’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  tennis ball)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  b) ELLE style director Kate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Lanphear (by a girl’s jump rope)                                 ANSWERS: a, a, c, a, b




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Miss                                                                                                     Keeping It Real                                                                                                                                                                                     Chiquita
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Banana
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Oui                                                                                                      Report by Jo Craven
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     like these.”                            strong, healthy, powerful girl.”        launched.       Ukranian-Canadian
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  R e p ort b y Je n n y Dyson


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The audience at yesterday’s

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     From Dover                                                                                               Bugger botox                               Seemingly, it was not just the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     economy Marsh was referring
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 As the man responsible
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             for kick-starting the vogue for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Werbowy was cast by Marsh for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Prada. It sealed her future, and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Antoni and Alison fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  show was treated to one of the

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     to Downing                                                                                               and lose the                           to, but pop culture’s spiralling
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     obsession with a hyper perfect
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Eastern European models and the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             more recent revival of the original
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Steven Meisel-shot covers for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Italian Vogue followed.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  day’s jolliest moments. “Ladies
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  and gentlemen, for s/s ’09, we

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Street                                                                                                   liposuction,                           beauty ideal. “We need a wake           Supermodels, Marsh is a man                 More recently, Marsh cast                                                present an exotic collection.” Cue
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Adele Mildred




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     up call. I think it’s time people       of influence. He is also a casting      Jourdan Dunn for last season’s                                               fabulous rendition of Bali Hai,
                                                                                                                                                            Adrian Joffe




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Miss Oui is considering an early
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     retirement. My life is complete.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              casting agent                          saw things for how they are,” says
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Marsh, who hopes to introduce
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     something of a reality check with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             director whose opinion counts;
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             thanks to his work at Prada, for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             whom he has cast for the last 10
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Prada presentation, also putting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     the subject of black models firmly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     back on fashion’s radar. She hasn’t
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  luxury-cruise-liner style. Divine.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Below: Antoni and Alison’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     After dashing in and saying “How
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     do you do?” to Stephen Jones
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Russell Marsh                          his current choice of casting.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     “Grow old gracefully I say.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             years. With his reputation for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             championing unknown girls,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     sat still since. Still, when it comes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     to who is going to be headlining
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  s/s ’09 moodboard

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     and pals at Dover Street Market,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     I tottered off to Downing Street,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              celebrates                                 So in these changing times what
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     is he looking for? “The models
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Marsh is also credited with setting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             new beauty standards: be that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     next week at Prada’s show in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Milan, Marsh is keeping mum.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     passport in hand, for a thorough
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     frisking before entering Number
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              the return of                          need to be athletic, confident,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     powerful.” To this end, he chose
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             haughty bourgeois, intellectual
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             bohemian or his latest, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     “I’m not saying who the new girl
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     at Prada is!”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     10. Fashion’s young rebels were                                                                          natural beauty                         Lara Stone to open Kane’s show –        Amazonian aesthetic.                        But how does he zone in on
                                                                                                                                                                                         Gatecrashers




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     on their best behaviour, unlike                                                                                                                 a fantastically curvy blonde. “We           “On a daily basis I am sent         what’s going to be the next big
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     a certain over-excited designer,                                                                         Yesterday at Christopher Kane’s        wanted the girls for Christopher’s      25 to 30 girls,” says Marsh of the      beauty trend? “I like to react
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Rifat Ozbek and Carla Sozzani




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     who tried to wrap the PM’s wife                                                                          rapturously received show, the         show to be incredibly strong            rigorous scouting he and his team       to what’s gone in the past. It’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Photography by Alistair Guy




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     in a flag. What was wrong with                                                                           designer turned back the clock         women, very prehistoric, Tarzan         performs. “We’re like bees taking       about something I haven’t seen
                                                                                                   Stephen Jones and muse




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     her bonne plum Jaeger London                                                                             to walking with dinosaurs.             and Jane-style, like a tribe of         pollen from flowers.” Indeed,           before. I’m an editor, but I also
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     gown? Zut alors! Quelle horreur!                                                                         However, it was a different story      powerful women,” he continues.          Marsh’s search for the Next Big         feel like papa in a way. I have
                                                                                                                                                                                         What a lotta bottle




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     It was a très shocking faux pas.                                                                         backstage. In a surprising and         “Lara’s everything you want. She’s      Thing is never ending. “I am            to be paternalistic, and to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Moi shall be dining out on that                                                                          unprecedented move, the show’s         slightly bigger than the other girls    always working on Prada. It runs        fair and nurture them. People
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     forever. Mais the best memory                                                                            legendary casting director, Russell    and on the runway that really           ahead of me, behind me, around          underestimate how hard it is to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     of ce soir? The impromptu photo                                                                          Marsh, broke the news to The           makes such a statement.” Marsh’s        me, it’s a constant.”                   a model, how hectic the schedule
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     op on the doorstep of Number 10                                                                          Daily that he was turning his back     other current favourite is model            Thanks to him, models such          really is. They deserve every bit of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     of moi and mes fabulous fashion                                                                          on fantasyland. “I like reality,” he   Katrin Thorman. “She’s German –         as Gemma Ward and Daria                 glory they get.” Absolutely, and so
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     friends – chic, non?                                                                                     announced, “especially in times        like an athletic Kirsten Owen – a       Werbowy’s careers have also been        say all of us.

                                     To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.londonfashionweek.co.uk                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk                                  LONDON, We DNe sDay 17 t h se pte mbe r 2008                                                                                                                         • 07




Take a                                                                                                                                                               IT’S WHAT eVeRyBODy’S TALkING!




        FASHIONABLe FUN AND GAMeS BROUGHT TO yOU By POP-UP PUBLICATION RUBBISH MAGAzINe. WWW.RUBBISHMAG.COM
                                                                                                                                                                                      B r ea k
                                                                                                                                                              Colin
                                                                                                                                                            Waxman
                                                                                                                                                            RUBBISH ETIQUETTE
                                                                                                                                                            Featuring guest agony
                                                                                                                                                            aunt Colin Waxman, the
                                                                                                                                                            fashion PR/marketing guru
                                                                                                                                                            whose company, Waxman
                                                                                                                                                            Communications, rules
                                                                                                                                                            the roost
                                                                                                                                                            TODAY’S DILEMMA:
                                                                                                                                                            How are you responding to the credit crunch?

                                                                                                                                                            Dear Rubbish
                                                                                                                                                            I am economising like mad by billing
                                                                                                                                                            most of my personal expenses to my clients
                                                                                                                                                            – 15 lunches in one month with Lucinda
                                                                                                                                                            Chambers. No-one really notices, and it is
                                                                                                                                                            amazing what you can write-off these days
                                                                                                                                                            (the best accessory in a credit crunch is a
                                                                                                                                                            creative accountant). Otherwise, I am being
                                                                                                                                                            so good – I haven’t bought myself new
                                                                                                                                                            clothes for seasons now – and I am so
                                                                                                                                                            skinny. Thanks to this new diet I’m on,
                                                                                                                                                            I’m sample size – samples can always
                                                                                                                                                            go missing in action – everything fits
                                                                                                                                                            perfectly. Very sadly, I have decided to let
                                                                                                                                                            my houseboy, Rifat, go – he was causing
                                                                                                                                                            the housekeeper too much aggravation
                                                                                                                                                            quite frankly. But my divine assistant Anna
                                                                                                                                                            comes in every day, and between dictation
                                                                                                                                                            she gives the house a quick dust with a
                                                                                                                                                            Shartoosh. For my clients, I think it is vital
                                                                                                                                                            they don’t acknowledge the credit crunch –
                                                                                                                                                            all this doom and gloom and economising
                                                                                                                                                            makes one very boring and scares off the
                                                                                                                                                            customers. If they think you are in trouble
                                                                                                                                                            they spend elsewhere. I suggest lots more
                                                                                                                                                            spending on events, showing them how
                                                                                                                                                            well you are doing – money makes money.

                                                                                                                                                                                     RUBBISH ADvERTORIAL




                                                                                                                              Illustration by Patrick Fry
                                                                                      RUBBISH ADvERTORIAL
                           Got a cool application or image
                           on your iPhone that you want to show
                           to your friend? Press the “Sleep” and         Delivering Beauty
                           “Home” buttons simultaneously, the            The weekly grocery shop just got a lot more
                           screen will flash white and the iPhone        glamorous, with beauty products now available
                           will save the screen as a photo in            from online grocer Ocado. The virtual beauty
                                                                         aisle is stocked with a scrumptious supply of
                           the Camera Roll. It’s a great trick if
                                                                         indulgent body and beauty treats, including
                           you want to send a shot of Google             organic products, too.
                           Maps with the British Fashion Council            Favourites include Duchy traditional English
                                                                         creams and lotions, and an adorable Cath Kidston
                           tent marked for the Fashion for Relief
                                                                         toiletries collection with polka-dot packaging.
                           show, or an article detailing the latest         Stock up on ingredients that make you beautiful
                           backstage scandals.                           from the inside out at the same time, with Ocado’s
                                                                         top-quality groceries.
                           GEEKSQUAD.co.uk.
                                                                         Special offer!
                           Official IT team for LFW.
                                                                         Take your pick on www.ocado.com.
                                                                         New customers can save 15% off
                           Tune in throughout the week for your          orders of £60 or more (maximum
     RUBBISH ADvERTORIAL   top geek tips.                                reward £15) by entering VOU7697140
                                                                         at the checkout before 11th October.



                                                                                                                                                                  The May Fair Hotel, the Official Hotel of London Fashion Week


                                                   To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.londonfashionweek.co.uk

				
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