Sahalie Apparel Quality Guidelines

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					NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES




                 Sahalie
        Apparel Quality Guidelines




                                         Updated 2009




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         NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

TABLE OF CONTENTS

I.     INTRODUCTION
       CONTACT INFORMATION ............................................................................................ 4
             Technical Design & Quality .................................................................................. 4
             Technical Designers............................................................................................... 4
II.    VENDOR REQUIREMENTS............................................................................................ 5
       SAMPLE TAGS ................................................................................................................. 5
       PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS ...................................................................... 5
       PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES ....................................................................................... 6
       TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS ............................................................................ 7
       REQUIRED PROCESSES BEFORE SHIPPING .............................................................. 8
       PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS................................................................................... 9
       QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS ............................... 9

III.   SAHALIE APPAREL GUIDELINES.............................................................................. 10
       GENERAL    ................................................................................................................ 10
       MEASUREMENTS.......................................................................................................... 10
       FABRICS    ................................................................................................................ 10
       COLOR      ................................................................................................................ 10
       CONSTRUCTION ........................................................................................................... 11
                  Stitching.................................................................................................. 11
                  Thread..................................................................................................... 11
                  Seams...................................................................................................... 11
                  Buttonholes............................................................................................. 11
                  Hems....................................................................................................... 12
                  Interfacing – Facing................................................................................ 12
                  Pockets.................................................................................................... 12
                  Collars..................................................................................................... 12
                  Plackets................................................................................................... 12
                  Cuffs ....................................................................................................... 12
                  Rib, Binding............................................................................................ 13
                  Waistbands/Belt loops ............................................................................ 13
       FINDINGS   ................................................................................................................ 13
                  Zippers .................................................................................................... 13
                  Buttons.................................................................................................... 13
                  Belts/Buckles .......................................................................................... 14
                  Shoulder pads ......................................................................................... 14
                  Linings .................................................................................................... 14
       PRESSING   ................................................................................................................ 14




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         NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES




IV.    PRODUCT LABELING REQUIREMENTS ................................................................... 15
       BRAND LABELS ........................................................................................................... 15
       SIZE LABELS ................................................................................................................ 15
       CARE & CONTENT LABELS........................................................................................ 15
                   Care Label Ruling................................................................................... 16
       COUNTRY OF ORIGIN .................................................................................................. 17
       LABEL PLACEMENT .................................................................................................... 17

V.     SUSTAINABILITY RESOLUTION ............................................................................... 18

VI.    FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS ............................................................................ 19
       SUSPTECT FABRICS ................................................................................................... 19
       RAISED FIBER FABRICS ............................................................................................ 20
       EXEMPTIONS ............................................................................................................. 20
VII    APPAREL TESTING..................................................................................................... 21
       BASIC QUALITY TESTING REQUIREMENTS ........................................................ 21
             Woven Fabric ...................................................................................................... 21
             Knit Fabric........................................................................................................... 21
             Sweaters............................................................................................................... 22
VIII   TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS................................................................... 23
             NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol.................................................................. 23-26
IX     TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM ............................................................................... 27-28
       ADDITIONAL TESTS SUBMIT FORM ........................................................................ 29
       OTHER TESTS .......................................................................................................... 30-31
             NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (other tests).............................................. 30-31
       TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM (other tests) ........................................................... 32-33

X.     APPENDIX    ................................................................................................................ 34
       READ AND COMPLY .................................................................................................... 35
       SPECS. CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET .............................................. 36
       GARMENT LABELS ...................................................................................................... 37
       ASTM GUIDE ................................................................................................................ 38




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         NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


I.     INTRODUCTION


The Sahalie Technical Design team establishes corporate quality guidelines and, together with the Merchandise
Department, develops products of quality and value.

Questions regarding quality guidelines should be directed to the appropriate Tech Design team member listed below
via phone, fax, regular mail, or email.


CONTACT INFORMATION

PHONE        FAX          ADDRESS
503-614-EXT. 503-614-4725 3188 NW Aloclek Drive
                          Hillsboro, OR 97124


Technical Design & Quality

NAME                                   EXT. E-MAIL
Kim Campbell                           4497 kcampbell@sahalie.com
Manager -Technical Design/Prod Quality


Technical Design

NAME               EXT.                 E-MAIL
Lucy Sami          4568 Sahalie Apparel lsami@sahalie.com
Product Technician




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           NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


II.      VENDOR REQUIREMENTS


SAMPLE TAGS

All sample garments must be received with sample tags applied by the vendor and include the
following information:
          a. Date
          b. Vendor name
          c. Vendor reference number
          d. Sahalie reference/product number
          e. Size
          f. Sample identification; i.e., 1st Prototype, 2nd Prototype, Pre-production Sample,
                Top of Production Sample, Photo Sample, etc.
          g. Color
          h. Fabric – content, fabric reference # , article #, and notation if substitute or correct

ALL FIT SAMPLES are to be sent to the attention of Technical Design – not to the buyer.
Samples received untagged will be returned to the vendor for tagging.


PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS

      a. Read and Comply Statement will be generated and faxed with first Purchase Order
         for each style (see Appendix page 30).

         1) Care and content is required on all styles and should be submitted prior to due date.
         2) Pre-production sample , if requested by Tech Designer. See page 5.
         3) TOP garment – One (1) required. See page 6.
         4) Color swatches:
              New styles: Submit two (1) sets of fabric swatches of any additional colors
                 purchased for that product not represented by TOP samples.
              Carryover styles: Submit one set of fabric swatches for new colors only.

      b. For apparel orders a blank specification sheet will be included (see Appendix page 30).

         1) Line Goods: All applicable garment measurements and care/content information
             must be completed on all new styles.
         2) Developed Goods: Complete only care/content information. Spec pack will be
             sent to you by Tech Design.
         3) Carryover Styles: Submit one set of fabric swatches for new colors only.




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         NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS (continued)

  c. It is a Federal Trade Commission (FTC) regulation that catalog information regarding
     country of origin and fiber content must be consistent with the information on the
     product label. Care and content information submitted on the specification sheet must
     match that of actual product labeling. Inaccurate product information submitted will
     result in a chargeback of $300.00, plus cost of copy change.

  d. Fax/email the specification sheet(s) to the appropriate Technical Designer by the due
     date on the Read and Comply Statement or by date given in by Technical Designer.

PLEASE NOTE: Your shipment will not be accepted at our distribution center until a Technical Design
representative has received your specification sheet. Failure to supply specification sheets on time will
result in a $450.00 surcharge per style, and delayed payment.


PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES

  a. One (1) pre-production sample is required upon request by Sahalie
     Technical Design. With this sample, the vendor is certifying that everything on and
     about the sample is correct – including materials, construction, labeling and packaging.

          If pre-production sample is requested, written approval of the pre-production sample must be
            received by the vendor prior to cutting and sewing of the product.

          Tech Design will fax/email approval to you.

          Samples are to be sent to the attention of the appropriate Technical Designer.

          All samples must be received with sample tags per the stated guideline (see Sample Tags on
            page 4).

          Sample is reviewed for quality, construction, and specification compliance.

          Labeling – All products must comply with Sahalie brand labels if requested. Refer to Section
            4 Product Labeling Requirements (page 13) for more detail.

          Any changes required as a result of the review of the pre-production sample must be
            incorporated into the bulk production.

Failure to supply the requested pre-production sample by the stated date will result in a $450.00
chargeback per style and possible rejection of bulk production.




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        NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS


  a. One (1) Top of Production (TOP) garment is required, as detailed on our Read and
     Comply Statement and Purchase Order. Also required are one (1) set of fabric
     swatches of any additional colors purchased for that product not represented by the
     production samples.

      TOP garments and swatches (if necessary) are to be received by the due date as specified on the
        Read and Comply Statement, or by date specified by the Technical Designer
        (based on production calendar).

      TOP garments should be sent to the attention of the appropriate Technical Designer.

      TOP garments are reviewed for quality and specification compliance.

      TOP garment (approved) will be retained as the inspection standard for the bulk order.

      Labeling – All products need to comply with Sahalie brand labels if requested. Refer to Section
        4 Product Labeling Requirements (page 13) for more detail.

      Packaging (hanging, folded, polybag, SKU sticker, etc.) should be as specified on the Purchase
        Order and representative of bulk shipment goods.

  b. If production of a carryover style moves to a new factory, or if style moves to a new
     yarn, has new content, etc., one (1) TOP garment samples are required.

  c. The Technical Designer will email/fax verification that TOP garments meet the
     production standard, within two working days of receipt.




PLEASE NOTE: Your shipment will not be accepted at our Distribution Center until the Technical
Designer has approved your TOP garments. Failure to supply the production garments by the due date
will result in a $450.00 surcharge per style, and delayed payment to you.




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        NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


Required processes before shipment of products

Technical Design and Quality require the following important steps be followed, before
A Top of Production garment is considered approved for production to ship.
.
      1- Testing for Quality and CPSIA be completed and submitted for approval by
          Technical Design/Product Quality Management. (see: Basic Testing Requirements)

      2- CPSIA Certificate of Conformity be fully completed and submitted
         By email to - testrecords@ntobrands.com

          For more details on the Certificate of Conformity – visit our vendor website
          http://vendor.nortom.com/ - “US CPSIA Act –2008” “Certificate of Conformity”
              Submit Certificate of Conformity must also include
                  a) Supporting test documents
                      - or -
                  b) Statement on letterhead with explanation of exemption.

          Note: Apparel Flammability Act 16 CFR 1610 - applies to all items of clothing, and fabrics
            used for clothing, whether for adults or children, for daywear or nightwear.
            Regulations: 16 CFR parts 1615 and 1616 govern the flammability of children's sleepwear.

      3- TOP (top of production) with all points met listed in the above guidelines.
      4- Receipt of TOP approval letter


Failure to comply will result in a $450.00 QC chargeback per style, per offense

      1- Non submittal - CPSIA certificate of conformity and supporting documentation at time of Top
         of Production submit.

      2- Top of Production – product not arriving by specified date
             provided by Technical Design and/or on Purchase order (read and comply)
             Check with appropriate Technical Designer regarding due date.

      3- Shipment of products to our warehouse without prior approval
             Products shipped before approval, may also be held at warehouse and
                    i. additional charges may be incurred due to lost demand, until all
                       issue and concerns are cleared.
                   ii. Automatic charge of $450.00 will be given




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       NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS

   a. Correct product labeling is required. Please refer to Section 4 Product Labeling Requirements
      (page 14).

   b. Garment folded or hanging as specified on the purchase order.

   c. If Sahalie labels are specified on the purchase order, there can be no vendor hangtag attached unless
      prior approval is obtained from Product Quality Management (PQM)

   d. No vendor solicitations allowed on garment (phone numbers, addresses, websites, etc.) with or
      without Sahalie labeling, unless prior approval is obtained from Product Quality Management
      (PQM)

   e. No price tags.

   f. One (1) extra button of each button size on garment to be included with garment.


QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS

   a. All orders received at our distribution center require a quality inspection to assure consistent quality
      of all products.

   b. Inspection procedure adopted by our distribution center is the 4% Acceptable Quality Level (AQL),
      double sampling plan based upon the Military Standard 105D. It is the most widely used random-
      sampling inspection procedure among the large direct-mail companies.

       4% AQL means no more than 4% of the shipment can be defective.

       Double sampling means if the amount inspected falls between accept/reject, another sample lot
         is pulled and inspected.

   c. If shipment fails the AQL inspection, goods will automatically be returned to the vendor for 100%
      inspection and replacement of goods.

   d. There are three levels of inspection under the AQL plan: normal, reduced, and tightened. Each
      shipment is documented, and a vendor’s status may be changed to reduced or increased inspection
      levels, based upon inspection of previous shipments.

   e. Inspection reports are available upon request.

   f. For further information or questions regarding the AQL process, please contact the appropriate
      Technical Designer.




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         NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

III.   SAHALIE APPAREL GUIDELINES


GENERAL

These guidelines include, but are not limited to, the following:

a. Color, fiber content, fabric and garment construction, and all parts, findings and features, are exactly as
   approved for Purchase Order by Merchants, and are representative of photo samples.
b. No odors.
c. All units of Purchase Order are consistent in quality of fabric, construction, and features.
d. Vendor is responsible for physical testing that meets Sahalie requirements. Our standards follow
    American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and ASTM International (ASTM)
    for product end-use. Refer to Section 6 Physical Testing (page 17).


MEASUREMENTS

a. Garment measurements must meet approved graded production specification sheets within
   tolerances listed on spec sheet.
b. Corresponding garment pieces measure within ½" of each other (right and left sleeve, or right and left
   pant leg).


FABRICS

a. No fabric defects, including: holes, stains, weak spots, mispicks, knots, slubs, soil, or other
   flaws.
b. No streaking, fade lines, heavy barré or foreign matter, unless characteristic of fabric type.
c. No large or long slubs (inherent in some natural fabrics) to be found in front of garment, which detracts
   from garment appearance.
d. No uneven print repeats, off-register prints, off-grain prints, or inconsistent print repeats.
e. Stripes, plaids and directional prints must match at center front and center back +/- ⅛",at side seams
   and armscye.
f. Based on design, center of plaid/stripe is placed at center front and center back.


COLOR

a. Production colors must match approved lab dip or approved photo sample color.
b. All garment components are from the same dye lot.
c. Separates should be from the same dye lot or from approved dye lots within shade band pre-approved
    by the Technical Designer.




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CONSTRUCTION

Stitching
a. Required stitch length is 10-12 stitches per inch (SPI) and must be consistent throughout garment.
   Required stitch length for topstitching is 10-12 SPI, except heavyweight outerwear,
   which is 8-10 SPI.
b. Stitch tension is balanced, so there are no puckers or thread loops.
c. No broken or skipped stitches.
d. Topstitching is consistently even and parallel from edge or from another line of topstitch.
e. No needle cuts, chews, or thread jams.
f. Bartacks or back-tacks at garment stress points.
g. No conspicuous, overlapped stop-and-start stitching.
h. No hand repairs or darning.

Thread
a. Thread color matches or complements ground color for all seams and topstitching unless another color
   is pre-approved.
b. Thread color is consistent throughout garment.
c. No monofilament thread on any part of garment or labels.
d. Thread tails should be clipped and removed from garment.
e. Fluff or texturized threads on loopers of swim and/or body wear.

Seams
a. Seam must be straight: no wavering, curling, puckering, or pleating.
b. Minimum seam for overseam is ⅜" woven’s, ½" for lockstitch. Minimum seam for overseam on knits
   is ¼".
c. Seam edge is finished by serging or taping.
d. No open unstitched seams.
e. No seam grin due to loose tension or too large stitches.
f. Seams match +/- ¼", where seams cross (i.e., inside leg seams at crotch seam, or armscye seams at side
   seam).
g. No extraneous part of garment caught in seam.
h. Shoulder seams on knits reinforced.

Buttonholes
a.   Buttonhole length = diameter + thickness of button.
b.   Spaced evenly, and correctly aligned to buttons +/- ⅛".
c.   Thread matches ground color unless another color pre-approved.
d.   Buttonholes completely surrounded by buttonhole stitches, ends reinforced.
e.   No clipped buttonhole stitches.
f.   Reinforced with interfacing.
g.   Loose fabric yarns and buttonhole threads neatly trimmed.
h.   Aligned with fabric grain, crosswise or lengthwise as predetermined.




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           NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


CONSTRUCTION (continued)


Hems
a. Hem is sewn after main seam (side, leg, sleeve) unless seam has slits.
b. Sewn securely without puckering; no loose or skipped stitches.
c. Should not rope.
d. Hang evenly and straight.
e. Width is consistent throughout garment.

Interfacing – Facing
a. Interfacing must be of compatible weight for base goods.
b. Interfacing must be durable to withstand recommended care.
c. Fusible interfacing must be applied at correct temperature and pressure to remain fused for the life of
   the garment.
d. Facing is clean-finished, serged edge or pre-approved edge finish.
e. Facing is sufficiently secured to lie smooth inside garment.

Pockets
a. Lie flat against garment – no pulling, gaping, or puckering.
b. Pockets in correct placement on garment +/- ¼" tolerance.
c. Patch pockets aligned evenly with one another horizontally +/- ¼" tolerance and vertically from CF +/-
   ¼" tolerance.
d. Pocket/flap shape is symmetrical and uniform in size +/- ¼".
e. Functional pockets are reinforced at stress points, such as top corners.
f. Patch pockets, even edge-stitch.
g. Pocket bags should use stitch type recommended for durability.

Collars
a.   Collar points/curves are uniform in size and shape +/- ⅛".
b.   Under-collar does not roll to outside.
c.   Collar band fits smoothly to neck opening without excessive fullness or tucks in seams.
d.   Even stripes, plaids or patterns match on both collar points +/- ⅛".
e.   Collar seam is enclosed within facing or binding.

Plackets
a. Top and bottom plackets should be equal when buttoned +/- ⅛".
b. Inside edge of placket is clean-finished, serged or bound.
c. Placket width should be consistently even +/- ⅛".

Cuffs
a. Cuff seam and cuff edges are in alignment when buttoned +/- ⅛".
b. Inside-cuff does not roll to outside.
c. Inside-cuff edge clean-finished, serged or bound.




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CONSTRUCTION (continued)


Rib, Binding
a. Should be compatible to garment and its recommended care, including: colorfastness, durability and
   shrinkage.
b. Stretch ratio should be compatible to garment fabric.
c. Neck finish seam is set at left shoulder or center back.
d. Sleeve finish seam is set at underarm seam.
e. Bottom finish seam is set at left side seam.
f. Binding ends are clean-finished.
g. Binding splices should not fall on garment front.

Waistbands/Belt loops
a. Waistband width is of consistent width +/- ⅛".
b. Inside waistband edge is clean-finished, bound or serged.
c. No puckers at waistband seam.
d. No missing, crooked or incorrectly placed belt loops.
e. Belt loop securely attached to garment.
f. Belt loop construction must enclose raw edges.


FINDINGS

Zippers
a. Equivalent in strength to the base fabric and product end use.
b. Locking slider, secure pull-tab and bottom stops.
c. Teeth and tape match pre-approved color.
d. Garment construction should not interfere with zipper operation.
e. Should lie flat after construction.
f. Zipper tape is enclosed within facing or binding.
g. YKK strongly recommended.

Buttons
a. Button style, quality and color as pre-approved sample.
b. Placed evenly and aligned properly on garment.
c. Sewn and tacked securely with no loose threads.
d. Colorfast and durable to recommended care.
e. Consistent color and shape among all garment buttons.
f. Placement markings are not visible.
g. No sharp edges or noticeable flaws.
h. Shanked button when fabric thickness dictates need.
i. Button placement reinforced with interfacing




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CONSTRUCTION (continued)


Belts/Buckles
a. Buckles and grommets should not have any sharp, burred edges.
b. For self-fabric belts, fabric should completely cover belting and buckle.
c. Self-fabric belt cut from same dye lot as garment.

Shoulder pads
a. Sufficiently tacked to avoid twisting or shifting from wear or care.
b. Shoulder pad fabric should be compatible to garment fabric.
c. If attached by hook & loop fasteners, loops should be on garment, hooks should be on pads.
d. Exposed shoulder pads covered with self-fabric or fabric compatible to garment.

Linings
a.   Color and content pre-approved by Merchants and Tech Design.
b.   Must withstand recommended garment care.
c.   Seams securely stitched and reinforced at stress points.
d.   Hang straight in the garment without pulling or excessive puckering.
e.   Do not hang below garment shell.
f.   Lining and shell fabric have similar shrinkage rates within acceptable tolerance.
g.   Opaque to prevent show-through of construction details.
h.   Jacket lining is tacked at underarm seams.


PRESSING

a.   No scorch, burn, shine, press marks, or color changes due to over-pressing.
b.   Garment properly pressed, unless fabric type warrants otherwise.
c.   No heat-set creases due to improper pressing.
d.   Garment must cool to room temperature prior to measuring for final inspection and packaging, to
     prevent condensation in bag.




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        NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


IV.    PRODUCT LABELING REQUIREMENTS

BRAND LABELS

PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION .
     Check with PQM for specifics on Labels.
     For contact list – see “Technical Design and Quality”



SIZE LABELS

PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION .
     Check with PQM for specifics on Labels.
     For contact list – see “Technical Design and Quality”



CARE & CONTENT LABELS
PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION .
     Check with PQM for specifics on Labels.
     For contact list – see “Technical Design and Quality”




Federal Trade Commission (FTC) – All care & content labels must be in compliance with current FTC
requirements.
For further information regarding fiber content and care labels, contact:
Federal Trade Commission
6th & Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
Phone: 202-326-2996
www.ftc.gov. - Business Guidance, Textile/wool/fur apparel.




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CARE & CONTENT LABELS (Continued)


a. Care label is permanently affixed at a conspicuous place on garment and legible throughout useful
      life of the product.

b. Labels are required to be written in English. Additionally, international languages and American
   Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) symbols may be used (see Appendix).

c. Identification of fiber by generic name and percentages and by weight of each constituent fiber must be
   listed in descending order of predominance. Fibers of less than five percent should be disclosed as “other
   fiber(s)”.
   Exception: Wool or recycled wool must always be disclosed by name and percentage weight,
   even if it is less than five percent of the product.

d. Textile labels must identify either the company name or Registered Identification Number (RN).

Please note: It is an FTC requirement that catalog information (mail order advertising) regarding a
product’s country of origin, fiber content and care information match the actual product labeling.
Submitting accurate information on your spec. sheet will help to ensure compliance with this
requirement.



Care Label Ruling

Instructions are required for regular care under ordinary use of product.
Care instructions must include the following:

     Method of washing and temperature.
     Method of drying and temperature.
     Bleaching – type of bleach or “no bleach” (need tests to support statement on bleach care).
     Ironing and temperature if needed.
     Warnings – if any part of care procedure would damage product or others cleaned with it, then label must
       contain warning.
     Dry cleaning – if product warrants this care, due to damage of garment if washed.
                      When using the statement “Dry-Clean Only” – Testing is required to support this care.




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COUNTRY OF ORIGIN

Products are required to show country of origin.

    Imported products must identify the country where they were manufactured.
    Products made in USA of USA materials must be labeled “Made in U.S.A.”
    Products manufactured in part in the USA and in part abroad must identify both aspects.
    Products made in USA of imported materials must be labeled to show manufacturing that takes place in the
      USA, as well as the imported component.
      Example: “Made in Sri Lanka, finished in U.S.A.”
    Products made in the USA with imported materials must identify this, but label does not have to include
      country of origin of imported materials.
      Example: “Made in U.S.A. of imported fabric”.


Please note: It is an FTC requirement that catalog information (mail order advertising) regarding a
product’s country of origin, fiber content and care information match the actual product labeling.
Submitting accurate information on your spec. sheet will help to ensure this requirement.



LABEL PLACEMENT

    In a garment with a neck, a label disclosing the country of origin must be visible.
    On garments without a neck, required information must appear on conspicuous and readily
      accessible label(s) on the inside or outside of the product.

U.S. Customs service has country of origin labeling requirements separate from those under the FTC
Textile and Wool Acts and Rules. For more information, refer to
www.customs.ustreas.gov.




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V. SUSTAINABILITY RESOLUTION

NOTE: Sahalie Outfitters is a member of the Business for Social Responsibility, and supports activities
of the BSR organization. As a participating member, Sahalie asks all suppliers to become aware of
substances that are harmful either to the environment or to humans, and ensure Sahalie that use of these
products will be curtailed to designated limits or less. A list of these substances follows. Further
information may be found online at www.bsr.org/rsl.

                                                Azo dyes
                                             Disperse dyes
                                            Flame retardants
                                             Formaldehyde
                                        Pentachlorophenol (PCP)
                                               Organotins
                                        Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)
                                               Phthalates
                                                 Nickel
              Other metals; including antimony, arsenic, barium, total chromium & selenium
                                                Mercury
                                                Cadmium
                                                  Lead
                                             Chromium VI
                                                Asbestos
                                           Dioxins and Furans
                                               Pesticides




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VI. FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS

All apparel must comply with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Regulation CFR1610 for
flammability. The only exemptions to this regulation are hats, gloves and shoes.

Although most fabrics burn, the CPSC identifies in the regulation, those fabrics which, due to their burning
characteristics, will not fail to meet this regulation. These fabrics are categorized as EXEMPT.

The regulation also identifies those fabrics that are categorized as SUSPECT, and therefore not exempt.

Leather and suede are not considered to be suspect fabrics however suede, due to its raised surface, must be
tested for flammability. Smooth leather products do not need to be tested for flammability.

Sahalie requires that all SUSPECT fabrics be tested prior to shipping and that all such fabrics be classified as
“Class 1”. The following list provides fabric types that are “EXEMPT” and “SUSPECT”.




SUSPECT FABRICS

 Lightweight Fabrics: Fabrics weighing less than 2.6 ounces per square yard composed of cotton, rayon,
ramie, acetate or silk fibers. This includes, but is not limited to:


• Cellophane or Chiffon                         • Moss Crepe
• Cheese Cloth                                  • Net
• Crepe de Chine                                • Ninon
• Crinoline                                     • Organdy
• Gauze                                         • Swiss Marquisette
• Georgette                                     • Tissue Faille Crepe
• Lace                                          • Tissue Gingham
• Lawn                                          • Tobacco Cloth
• Leno Weave                                    • Tulle
• Light Weight Momme Cloth                      • Veiling
• Lingerie Batiste                              • Voile
• Metallic




                                                        19
         NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

SUSPECT FABRICS (continued)


Raised Fiber Surface Fabrics

Fabrics, which have raised fiber, yarns such as pile, tufting or nap of cotton or rayon fibers, or blends
containing these fibers. This includes but is not limited to:

• Chenille                     • Flocked Weaves
• Flannel                      • French Terry
• Fleece                       • Sherpa
• Terry




Exemptions

The CPSC exempts certain fabrics from the flammability testing requirements. Following is a list of these
exemptions:

• Plain surface fabrics which weigh 2.6 ounces per square yard or more, regardless of their fiber content.

• All fabrics (both plain and raised fiber surface) made completely from any of the following fibers or
    entirely from combinations of the following fibers:


• Acrylic                      • Modacrylic
• Nylon                        • Olefin
• Polyester                    • Wool




                                                      20
      NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


VII. APPAREL TESTING


    Basic Quality Testing Requirements

       WOVEN FABRIC


                  Description                              Method
        Fibre Composition                    AATCC 20/20A
        Yarn Count                           ASTM D1059
        Thread / Stitch Count                ASTM D3775 / D3887
        Fabric Weight                        ASTM D3776
        Seam Strength                        ASTM D1683
        Dimensional Stability to Washing /   AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial Dry-
        Commercial Dry-cleaning              cleaning
        Appearance After Washing /           Subjective Assessment
        Commercial Dry-cleaning
        Colorfastness to Washing and/or      AATCC 61 / 132
        Commercial Dry-cleaning
        Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach     AATCC TS-001
        Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
        Colorfastness to Crocking            AATCC 8
        Flammability test                    US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 /
                                             ASTM D4151



       KNIT FABRIC

                  Description                              Method
        Fibre Composition                    AATCC 20/20A
        Yarn Count                           ASTM D1059
        Thread / Stitch Count                ASTM D3775 / D3887
        Fabric Weight                        ASTM D3776
        Dimensional Stability to Washing /   AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial Dry-
        Commercial Dry-cleaning              cleaning
        Appearance After Washing /           Subjective Assessment
        Commercial Dry-cleaning
        Colorfastness to Washing and/or      AATCC 61 / 132
        Commercial Dry-cleaning
        Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach     AATCC TS-001
        Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
        Colorfastness to Crocking            AATCC 8
        Flammability test                    US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 /
                                             ASTM D4151




                                                21
    NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


   Basic Quality Testing Requirements (continued)


      SWEATERS



                 Description                              Method
       Fibre Composition                    AATCC 20/20A
       Yarn Count                           ASTM D1059
       Thread / Stitch Count                ASTM D3775 / D3887
       Garment Weight                       ASTM D3776
       Dimensional Stability to Washing /   AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial Dry-
       Commercial Dry-cleaning              cleaning
       Appearance After Washing /           Subjective Assessment
       Commercial Dry-cleaning
       Colorfastness to Washing and/or      AATCC 61 / 132
       Commercial Dry-cleaning
       Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach     AATCC TS-001
       Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
       Colorfastness to Crocking            AATCC 8
       Flammability test                    US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 /
                                            ASTM D4151




 Test packages with reduced prices are available,
      o See: “ Testing Submit Form “
          “NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Apparel & Home Textiles)”

      o Questions on test packages please; contact Technical Designers –
        For contact list – see “Technical Design and Quality”




                                               22
                     NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


VIII. TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS
                            NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)
  Protocol
             Item#




                     Description Method Guidance                   Requirement
               Fibre            AATCC       Test one color per     No tolerance for single fiber; +/-3% for blends
             1
               Composition      20/20A      fabrication.
               Yarn Count       ASTM        - Sweater only.        +/-5% (lab shows also + or -% besides result after comparing the
             2                  D1059       - Test one color per   declared)
                                            fabrication.
               Thread / Stitch ASTM         Test one color per     +/-5% (lab shows also + or -% besides result after comparing the
             3 Count           D3775 /      fabrication.           declared)
                               D3887
               Fabric Weight ASTM           Report mm for silk     +/-5% (lab shows also + or -% besides result after comparing the
             4 (Garment Wt. D3776 /         fabric.                declared)
               for Sweater)    D3887
             5 Seam Strength ASTM           - Woven only.                           Fabric > 3 oz/sq Fabric < 3 oz/sq yd
                               D1683        - Test one color per                     yd & Strength     & Strength e.g.
                                                                          Style
                                            fabrication.                                              moss crepe, silk,
                                                                                                         georgette
                                                                   Woven
                                                                   outerwear
                                                                   (shell/lining)       35 lbs             15 lbs
                                                                   Tops, flannel
                                                                   and seersucker       25 lbs             10 lbs
                                                                   Bottoms              30 lbs             15 lbs
                                                                   All other
 Package




                                                                   Pockets              10 lbs             10 lbs
                                                                   Patch Pockets        15 lbs             15 lbs
             6 Dimensional      AATCC       - the darkest color(s)                     Machine
                                                                      Fabrication
               Stability to     135 / 150   is/are preferable.                         Washes         Hand Washes          Dry-cleaning
               Washing /        or          - for garment test,     Woven/Knit
               Commercial       Commerci    vendor submits one cotton                   +/-5%              +/-4%              +/-4%
               Dry-cleaning     al Dry-     out of every three      Woven CVC           +/-4%              +/-3%              +/-2%
                                cleaning    colors per style to lab Woven CVS           +/-3%              +/-3%              +/-2%
                                            (3 maximum). Lab
                                            test all submitted          Knit CVC        +/-5%              +/-4%              +/-3%
                                            colors.                 Knit CVS            +/-4%              +/-4%              +/-2%
                                            - use "Tide" detergent Ribs of any
                                            to wash.                                    +/-8%              +/-8%              +/-2%
                                                                    fibers
                                            - 3 washes for          Wool/Cashmer
                                            machine and hand        e/Angora/CVL/       +/-5%              +/-5%              +/-4%
                                            wash.                   CV Rayon/Silk
                                            - 1 wash for dry-
                                            cleaning.               Spandex
                                                                                        +/-7%              +/-7%              +/-4%
                                            - For "Appearance", blends
                                            Lab can skip 1st wash Thermal Knits         +/-6%              +/-6%              +/-3%
                                            result if 3rd washes
                                            result is passed.
                                            - Leather to be
                                                                    Leather              N/A                N/A               +/-2%
                                            "Professional Dry
                                            Cleaned".




                                                                     23
                     NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS (continued)


                                 NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)
Protocol
           Item#




                   Description    Method            Guidance                Requirement
           7 Appearance      Subjective                                     Commercial Acceptable (report color change grade, skewing,
             After Washing / Assessment                                     pilling appearance according to ASTM D 3512 template and
             Commercial                                                     all poor performance after wash - for both fabric and garment).
             Dry-cleaning                                                   For failed color change grade, report also color change with
                                                                            UV depressor, but comment according to without depressor)
           8 Colorfastness to AATCC 61 /            - Fabric: test all colors                                        Swimwear dark
                                                                                                          Swimwear
             Washing and/or 132                     except pastels and                           Non-                    colors
                                                                                                        Light/Medium
             Commercial                             white.                                     Swimwear              neon/fluorescen
                                                                                                            Color
             Dry-cleaning                           - Garment: vendor                                                        t
                                                    submit one out of         Color Change
                                                    every three colors
                                                    with darkest shade(s)                         4.0                 3.5        3.0
                                                    except pastels and        Color Staining
                                                    white to the lab. Lab                         3.5                 3.0        3.0
                                                    test all submitted        Self Staining
                                                    colors.                                       4.5                 4.5        4.5
              Colorfastness to AATCC TS-            All colors.
           9                                                                                        Color Change 4.0
              Chlorine Bleach 001
              Colorfastness to AATCC TS-            All colors.
           10 Non-Chlorine     001                                                                  Color Change 4.0
              Bleach
           11 Colorfastness to AATCC 8              All colors, except           Fabric
              Crocking                              pastels and white.                          Colors                Dry       Wet
                                                                            CVC                Light/Med              4.0       3.0
                                                                                                  Dark                3.0       2.5
                                                                            CVS                Light/Med              4.0       3.0
                                                                                                  Dark                3.5       2.5
                                                                            Wool / Linen /
                                                                            Leather            All Colors             3.0        2.5
Optional




           12 Flammability        US CPSC 16 Test all colors.
              test                CFR Part 1610
                                  for garment
                                                                                                            Class 1
                                  ASTM D4151
                                  for blanket
                                  US CPSC 16
                                  CFR Parts
                                  1630 / 1631 for                                                            Pass
                                  carpet/rug




                                                                            24
                          NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS (continued)

                                     NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)
 Protocol
              Item




                     Description      Method     Guidance           Requirement
                     Thread Count     ASTM D3775 Woven only.                                          +/-5%
                     Tensile Strength ASTM D5034 Woven only.                   Style               Acceptance Level
                                                                    Woven tops, dresses,
                                                                    lounge wear, lining on
                                                                                                                 25 lbs. Min.
                                                                    jackets/coats, other light
                                                                    weight woven’s
                                                                    Woven bottoms, denim
                                                                                                                 35 lbs. Min.
                                                                    less than 8.5 oz.
                                                                    Denim over 8.5 oz.,
                                                                    shell fabric on                              40 lbs. Min.
                                                                    jackets/coats
                     Bursting        ASTM D3786 Knits only.
                                                                                                 Minimum 45 lbs
                     Strength
                     Snap & Fabric   Modified   Snap only.          Snap action: 2-8
                     Strength        ASTM D4846                     lbs.; Snap strength:
                                     / D1683                        Min. 15 lbs.
                     Eyelet Pull                - Eyelet only.      Minimum 15 lbs
                     Strength                   - using Tensile
                                                Testing Machine,
                                                CRE
                     Snag            ASTM D5362                        Fabrication               Grade
                     Resistance                                     CVC                           3.0
                                                                    CVS                           2.0
 Additional




                     Pilling         ASTM D3512 For fleece and         Fabrication               Grade
                     Resistance                 flannel, or other   CVC, CVS                      3.0
                                                suspected           Wool
                                                fabrics.                                          2.0
                     Abrasion        ASTM D4685 For corduroy        Face : 3.0 ;
                     Resistance                 fabric only.        Back : 4.0
                     Stretch and     ASTM D2594                     Knit - 95% Min.;
                     Recovery        / D3107                        Woven - 85% Min.
                     Zipper Strength ASTM D2061                                                                  Chain
                                                                                                                                Bottom Stop
                                                                    Pull Tab Strength    Top Stop              Crosswise
                                                                                                                                 Strength
                                                                          (min.)      Strength (min.)           Strength
                                                                                                                                   (min.)
                                                                                                                 (min.)
                                                                    Size
                                                                    1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 /   1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 /
                                                                    / 10                      8-9 / 10            8-9 / 10          8-9 / 10
                                                                    Brass/Nickel
                                                                    20 / 25 / 30 / 40 /   10 / 15 / 15 / 30   50 / 75 / 120 / 7 / 10 / 10 / 20
                                                                    60                          / 30            150 / 150           / 30
                                                                    Aluminum
                                                                    20 / 25 / 35 / 40 /   10 / 15 / 15 / 20    50 / 50 / 75 /   7 / 10 / 10 / 15
                                                                    60                          / 20             80 / 100             / 20
                                                                    Plastic/Nylon
                                                                    20 / 25 / 35 / 40 /   15 / 15 / 20 / 30    50 / 50 / 75 /   8 / 10 / 15 / 15
                                                                    40                          / 30             80 / 100             / 20
                                                                    CEF
                                                                    15 / 15 / 30 / 50 /50 10 / 10 / 20 / 40   50 / 50 / 100 / 7 / 8 / 15 / 40 /
                                                                                                / 60            150 / 200             60



                                                                           25
                         NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS (continued)

                                       NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)
    Protocol

               Item




                      Description       Method           Guidance               Requirement
                      Composition       Fed. Std. 48a,   Feather and down
                      Analysis          Method 2         only.
                      Oxygen number     Fed. Std. 48a,   Feather and down
                                                                                         Less than 10.0 for an oxygen cleanliness rating
                                        Method 4         only.
                      Wrinkle           AATCC 124 /      - For woven                                Non-Permanent Permanent
                                                                                    Criteria
                      Resistance /      143              wrinkle-free                                   Press       Press
                      Durable Press                      garments if            Fabric                   3.5         4.0
                                                         claimed.               Appearance
                                                         - Test all colors.     Retention
                                                        - Report 3rd and       Seam                       3.0                   3.5
                                                         5th washes. Lab        Appearance
                                                         can skip 3rd           Retention
                                                         washes result if 5th   Crease Resistant           3.0                   3.5
                                                         washes result is
                                                         passed.
                      Determine Twist AATCC 179
                      in both Woven &                                                                             +/-5%
                      Knit Garments
                      Water           AATCC 22           All colors.               Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3 Launderings - 70
                      Repellency                                                                            (ISO2)
                      Water           AATCC 35           All colors.                                                                           Water
                                                                                   Condition        Height of Water            Time
                      Resistance -                                                                                                           Absorption
                      Rain test                                                 Rain
                                                                                                                                            Not more than
                                                                                Shower                   2 feet             2 minutes
                                                                                                                                              1.0 gram
                                                                                Storm
 Additional




                      Colorfastness to AATCC 15          All colors, except                            General            Leather (Lining
                                                                                    Test Area
                      Perspiration                       pastels and white.                          Requirement               only)
                                                                                Color Change        Class 4.0 Min. Class 3.5 Min.
                                                                                Staining            Class 3.0 Min. Class 3.0 Min.
                                                                                Self Staining       Class 4.5 Min.       ---
                      Colorfastness to AATCC 16          All colors, except      Garment/ Fabric
                                                                                                      Color Type               Hour            Grade
                      Light                              pastels and white.          Type
                                                                                Silk/swimwear          Light/Med            10 hours             4.0
                                                                                                          Dark              20 hours             4.0
                                                                                                      Fluorescent           10 hours             4.0
                                                                                Leather                All Colors           20 hours             4.0
                                                                                Suede                  All Colors           20 hours             3.0
                                                                                All Other
                                                                                Garments               All Colors           20 hours             4.0
                      Colorfastness to AATCC 107         All colors, except
                                                                                                CC 4.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5
                      Water                              pastels and white.
                      Colorfastness to AATCC 162         All colors, except
                      Chlorinated Pool                   pastels and white.                         CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0
                      Water
                      Colorfastness to AATCC 106         All colors, except
                      Sea Water                          pastels and white.           CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5

                      Soil Release      AATCC 130                                                                   4.0
                      Oil Repellency    AATCC 118        For stain repellent.                      Original 5.0; After 3 washes 4.0
                      pH Value          AATCC 81         White colors and
                                                                                                            pH 5.0 - 7.0
                                                         denim.
                      Formaldehyde      AATCC 112                                                           Max. 75 ppm



                                                                                 26
           NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES



IX. TESTING SUBMIT FORM




            NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Apparel & Home Textiles)

Product #
Requirement
(Refer to vendor
if not specified)




  Package                Fabric Testing             (Apparel)                 Garment Testing

                                                                         NOTE: IF TESTING GARMENT:
Note; Mark box NOTE: IF TESTING FABRIC : circle if fabric is             circle if garment is 1st order or
below on fabric 1st order or Re-order below                              Re-order below
type

                    First Order Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12   First Order    Item # 5, 6, 7, 8

        Woven
                    Re-Order      Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12        Re-Order       Item # 5, 6, 7, 8




                    First Order Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12   First Order    Item # 6, 7, 8

          Knit
                    Re-Order      Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12        Re-Order       Item # 6, 7, 8




                    First Order Item # 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12      First Order    Item # 6, 7, 8

       Sweater
                    Re-Order      Item # 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12           Re-Order       Item # 6, 7, 8




Submit this page plus the next 2 pages (completed)




                                                                 27
                        NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

Home Textiles Test Package
Submit all colors for lab test.
                     Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
  Program
             Item#




                     Description                                    Method
             1       Fibre Composition                               AATCC 20/20A
             2       Yarn Count                                      ASTM D1059
             3       Thread / Stitch Count                           ASTM D3775 / D3887
             4       Fabric Weight                                   ASTM D3776
             5       Seam Strength                                   ASTM D1683
 Package




             6       Dimensional Stability to Washing / Commercial   AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial Dry-cleaning
                     Dry-cleaning
             7       Appearance After Washing / Commercial Dry-      Subjective Assessment
                     cleaning
             8       Colorfastness to Washing and/or Commercial Dry- AATCC 61 / 132
                     cleaning
             9       Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach                AATCC TS-001
            10       Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
                     Colorfastness to Crocking                       AATCC 8
 Optional




            11
                     Flammability test                              US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 / ASTM
            12                                                      D4151


Instructions:
 (1) SGS and INTERTEK labs are authorized to conduct testing for NT SAHALIE.
 (2) Vendor should refer to PO to inform the Lab whether it's first or re-order and the specification of each test item.
(3) Lab should automatically conduct the "Optional" test item(s) based on the guidance specified, if necessary. The
            test report should clearly state if any sample is exempted.
(4) Vendor will require to conduct second test for flammability on the semi-finished or end-product when needed.
(5) Final decision on acceptance will be made by NTO- SAHALIE.
(6) Test Report should be emailed to attn. PQM Manager/Brand,
            (Norm Thompson) ckildahl@normthompson.com;
            (Sahalie) kcampbell@sahalie.com;
            (Solutions)mvanrees@solutions.com;
            (Gold Violin) mvanrees@solutions.com ; and the applicant/vendor
                                                                           Additional test is not required, do not attach page
             Require Additional test(s), please refer to those
                                                                          30 with test request.
            tick(s) on page 30 – and submit with test requests
                                                                           Note: mark box to left with "X" if no additional
            Note: mark box to left with X if additional tests
                                                                          tests are requested
            are requested




                                                                   28
                     NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

ADDITIONAL TESTS submit form


Product #     0
Requirement
(Refer to
vendor if not
specified)    0




              Item
 Program




              Mark
              box
              with
              "X"     Description                               Method
                      Thread Count                              ASTM D3775
                      Tensile Strength                          ASTM D5034
                      Bursting Strength                         ASTM D3786
                      Snap & Fabric Strength                    Modified ASTM D4846 / D1683
                      Eyelet Pull Strength
                      Snag Resistance                           ASTM D5362
                      Pilling Resistance                        ASTM D3512
                      Abrasion Resistance                       ASTM D4685
                      Stretch and Recovery                      ASTM D2594 / D3107
                      Zipper Strength                           ASTM D2061
 Additional




                      Composition Analysis                      Fed. Std. 148a, Method 2
                      Oxygen number                             Fed. Std. 148a, Method 4
                      Wrinkle Resistance / Durable Press        AATCC 124 / 143
                      Determine Twist in both woven & Knit      AATCC 179
                      garments
                      Water Repellency                          AATCC 22
                      Water Resistance - Rain test              AATCC 35
                      Colorfastness to Perspiration             AATCC 15
                      Colorfastness to Light                    AATCC 16
                      Colorfastness to Water                    AATCC 107
                      Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water   AATCC 162
                      Colorfastness to Sea Water                AATCC 106
                      Soil Release                              AATCC 130
                      Oil Repellency                            AATCC 118
                      Formaldehyde                              AATCC 112
                      pH Value                                  AATCC 81




                                                                 29
                         NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


OTHER TESTS


                                       NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Others)
  Protocol
             Item#




                     Description        Method               Guidance                              Requirement
             1 Fiber Composition        AATCC 20/20A         Not applicable for leather.           No tolerance for single fiber;
                                                                                                   +/-3% for blends
             2 Thread / Stitch Count    ASTM D3775 /         Not applicable for leather.
                                        D3887                                                      +/-5%
             3 Abrasion Resistance      ASTM D1630           - Not applicable to slippers.
                                                             - Outsole only.                       Abrasion index 50%

             4 Flexing Resistance       ISO 5402             Upper only.                           No cracking after 50,000
                                                                                                   cycles.
             5 Ross Flexing Resistance ASTM D1052                                                  Max. 3mm growth in cut
 Package




                                                         Outsole only.                             length after 20,000 cycles.
             6 Slip Resistance          ASTM F609 (Mod.) - Static and Kinetic
                                                         - Dry and wet                             Min. 0.4
             7 Bonding Strength         ISO 17708            Upper and sole.                   Min. 3N/mm
             8 Lead Content             16 CFR 1303          - Product that is handled or
                                                             touched often.
                                                             - Scrapable surface coating only. - Not exceed 90 ppm.
                                                             - Test all colors.


             9 UL listed                UL related test(s)   - Test AC items only.
                                                             - Validity of certificate should be
                                                             within 2 years.
             10 Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8            All colors, except pastels and             Material
 Optional




                                                             white.                                                    Dry Wet
                                                                                                   Textiles
                                                                                                                       4.0    3.0
                                                                                                   Leather
                                                                                                                       3.5    2.5




                                                                   30
                           NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

OTHER TESTS (continued)
  Protocol
               Item



                      Description          Method         Guidance                      Requirement
              Mark box (below) with "X" for requested test
                      Eyelet Strength       ASTM D1683    Eyelet only.                  Min. 30 lbs.
                      Pull Through Strength (Mod.)                                      Min. 35 lbs. for leather; Min. 25 lbs. for
                                                                                        rubber/others.
                      Toe Strap Breakage                                                Min. 25 lbs.
                      Reinforcement
                                                                                        Min. 25 lbs.
                      Effectiveness
                      Tongue Strength                                                   Min. 30 lbs.
                      Setting Strength                    - For jewelry with plates.
                                                                                        Min. 10 lbs.
                                                          - Test per each style.
                      Lace Strength                       Lace only.                    Min. 30 lbs.
                      Seam Strength                                                     Min. 25 lbs.
                      Zipper Operability   ASTM D2062     Zipper only.
                                                                                        Max. 5 lbs.
                      (Open/Closed)
                      Lead Content         16 CFR 1303    - Product that is handled or
                                                          touched often.
                                                          - Scrapeable surface coating Should not exceed 90 ppm.
                                                          only.
                                                          - Test all colors.
                      Colorfastness to     AATCC 23       - Textiles and/or foam
                      Burnt Gas Fumes                     material only.
                                                                                         Color Change min. 4.0
                                                          - White and light colors only.
 Additional




                                                          - One cycle
                      Colorfastness to     AATCC 8        All colors, except pastels and      Material       Dry        Wet
                      Crocking                            white.                         Textiles            4.0        3.0
                                                                                         Leather             3.5        2.5
                      Colorfastness to     AATCC 15       - All colors, except pastels   Color Change     Min. 4.0
                      Perspiration                        and white.                     Staining         Min. 3.0
                                                          - Inner component only.        Self Staining    Min. 4.5
                      Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16     - Upper only.                       Material      Hour       Grade
                                                          - All colors, except pastels   Leather          10 hours      4.0
                                                          and white.                     Suede            10 hours      3.0
                      Colorfastness to     AATCC 162      All colors, except pastels and CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0; CS 3.0; Self-
                      Chlorinated Pool                    white.                         Staining 4.5
                      Water
                      Water Repellency     AATCC 22       All colors.                   Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3
                                                                                        Launderings - 70 (ISO2)
                      Water Resistance -   AATCC 35       All colors.                    Condition (height of water     Water
                      Rain test                                                           2 ft, duration 2 minutes)   Absorption
                                                                                        Rain                           Not more
                                                                                        Shower                      than 1.0 gram
                                                                                        Storm
                      Appearance after     storage method All colors                    No bad and adverse appearance after
                      Storage                                                           storage of 48 hours, 95% relative
                                                                                        humidity and 50 degrees Celsius
                                                          For clothing, sunscreen or    Min. UPF 40
                      UV Protection        AATCC 183      sunglass.

Instruction; Same as mentioned in "NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel)".

                                                                         31
                      NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

TESTING SUBMIT FORM (OTHER TESTS)

                                           NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Others)
 Product #
 Requirement
 (Refer to vendor
 if not specified)


 Hardline Test Package                                       Footwear Test Package
 (mark box below with "X" for correct test
                                                             (mark box below with "X" for correct test request)
 request)
    First &                                                        First
               Item# 8                                                               Item # 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10
    Re-Order                                                       Order


                                                                   Re-Order    Item # 1, 2, 3, 7, 10


 Electrical Test Package                                     Bag Test Package
 (mark box below with "X" for correct test
                                                             (mark box below with "X" for correct test request)
 request)
    First &                                                        First &
               Item# 9                                                         Item# 1, 10
    Re-Order                                                       Re-Order


 Jewelry Test Package
 (mark box below with "X" for correct test
 request)
    First &
               Item# 8
    Re-Order
   Protocol

              Item#




                      Description                            Method
              1       Fiber Composition                      AATCC 20/20A
              2       Thread / Stitch Count                  ASTM D3775 / D3887
              3       Abrasion Resistance                    ASTM D1630
Package




              4       Flexing Resistance                     ISO 5402
              5       Ross Flexing Resistance                ASTM D1052
              6       Slip Resistance                        ASTM F609 (Mod.)
              7       Bonding Strength                       ISO17708
              8       Lead Content                           16 CFR 1303
              9       UL listed                              UL related test(s)
                      Colorfastness to Crocking              AATCC 8
   Optional




              10




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                       NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

TESTING SUBMIT FORM (OTHER TESTS) (continued)



 In addition to the above "Package" test, please test the item(s) selected below:
 (mark box below with "X" for correct test request)
         Protocol

                    Item




                           Description                               Method
                           Eyelet Strength
                           Pull Through Strength
                           Toe Strap Breakage
                           Reinforcement Effectiveness
                                                                     ASTM D1683 (Mod.)
                           Tongue Strength
                           Setting Strength
                           Lace Strength
   Additional




                           Seam Strength
                           Zipper Operability (Open/Closed)          ASTM D2062
                           Lead Content                              16 CFR 1303
                           Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes          AATCC 23
                           Colorfastness to Perspiration             AATCC 15
                           Colorfastness to Light                    AATCC 16
                           Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water   AATCC 162
                           Water Repellency                          AATCC 22
                           Water Resistance - Rain test              AATCC 35
                           Appearance after Storage                  Storage method
                           UV Protection                             AATCC 183

 Instructions:
 (1) SGS and INTERTEK labs are authorized to conduct testing for NTO- SAHALIE.
 (2) Vendor should refer to PO to inform the Lab whether it's first or re-order and the specification of each test item.
 (3) Lab should automatically conduct the "Optional" test item(s) based on the guidance specified, if necessary. The
     test report should clearly state if any sample is exempted.
 (4) Vendor should provide all colors to the Lab to conduct testing.
 (5) Vendor will require to conduct second test for flammability on the semi-finished or end-product when needed.

 (6) Final decision on acceptance will be made by NTO- SAHALIE.
 (7) Test Report should be emailed to attn. PQM Manager/Brand,
     (Norm Thompson) ckildahl@normthompson.com;
     (Sahalie) kcampbell@sahalie.com;
     (Solutions)mvanrees@solutions.com;
     (Gold Violin) mvanrees@solutions.com ; and the applicant/vendor




                                                                      33
      NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES




X. APPENDIX



    1- READ AND COMPLY


    2- SPECS, CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET


    3- GARMENT LABELS

           • Specifications

           • Garment Label Examples: Sewn in garment

           • Garment Label Examples: On body


    4- ASTM CARE SYMBOLS




                                           34
       NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


1- READ AND COMPLY DOCUMENT




                               35
       NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


2- SPECS, CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET




                                    36
           NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES




 3- GARMENT LABELS

PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION .
   Check with PQM for specifics on Labels.
   For contact list – see “Technical Design and Quality




                                                     37
       NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES


ASTM CARE SYMBOL GUIDE




                               38

				
DOCUMENT INFO