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Preparation Powered By Docstoc
					Upgrading Daiwa Spool Bearings




Spool bearing upgrades are probably the most common modification that Tackle
Tour baitcast owners make on their reels, and it's a frequent topic on the forum.
That shouldn't be surprising, since bearing upgrades have become a quick way
to achieve a little better casting performance (although some make them for
other reasons). One thing for sure, hardly a day goes by when you don't see
someone mention bearing upgrades in the Maintenance, Show & Tell, Reels or
Enthusiast Sections of the forum!

So, you've followed the posts and they've "sparked" your interest? Or maybe
you've been intrigued in the chatter about the 'latest' bearings, and have the itch
to try a set for yourself? However you hesitate and have doubt -- because you
haven't done an upgrade before, don't know where to begin or even what you'll
need? Maybe you're concerned with "messing something up, but just don't know
what?....

I'll do my best to get you started in this blog, as I walk you through an Alphas-F
upgrade. I'll point out the more obvious problem areas, provide some insights
and tips, and lay the ground work should you want to do your own bearing mod.

[An Aside: Some experienced modders may even think I've gone a bit overboard
in explaining and pointing out things; but this blog really isn't for them! ...or is it?
I'm sure there are probably some steps that can be omitted without much
consequence; but feel it's important to help the inexperienced as much as I can.]

Background

The Daiwa Alphas-F is a great reel right out of the box. Not only is it light and
just the right size for palming, mine is also one of the smoothest cranking reels
that I own. It can be used for many different presentations and does a decent job
of casting lighter weight lures. However, like most reels, casting performance can
be improved by upgrading the spool bearings.
The arrangement and layout of the Alphas-F is similar to most of the other
magnetic-braked Daiwas, manufactured since the mid-1990s. Although there
may be minor differences in specific components, the information and steps
provided in this blog can be used for just about every Daiwa model.

General Note About Other Reel Brands: There are just too many other reel
manufacturers with various models to cover a lot of detail in one blog, since each
will have their own design and construction. Although I'll spend most of this blog
covering a Daiwa, the steps and discussion may still be of benefit when
upgrading the bearings on other reels. The general approach will be the same,
but you'll still want to search Google for more information before you begin.




All of the magnetic-braked Daiwa's employ what is known as a free spool system,
where the spool is completely disengaged from the pinion gear while making a
cast. (However, that may not be the case with other manufacturers, especially
their older models.) So, you only need to upgrade 2 spool bearings for improved
casting performance on the Daiwas.

Some bearing suppliers do a great job of identifying the bearings you'll need for
the upgrade in their listings. For example, Boca Bearings and smoothdrag.com
have the information conveniently arranged by reel manufacturer and model.
However, you'll need to know the bearing size for some other suppliers.

The size of a bearing is usually listed as the [id] x [od] x [thickness (or width)],
and for the majority of reels, it will be measured in millimeters (mm). If you don't
know the size of a bearing you can always measure it with a micrometer.
Most recent Daiwa models since the earliest TD-X's and S's use spool bearings
that are the same size. They use (1) 3x8x4 in the center of the palm plate, and
(1) 5x11x4 bearing that is pinned to the spool shaft and fits into the reel frame.
So the Pixy, Sol, Alphas, Fuego, TD-Z, Viento and Zillion all take the same 2
bearings for an upgrade. [However, The Steez's and Advantages use (1) 3x10x4
and (1) 5x11x4, and the Presso uses (2) 3x8x4 bearings. The Presso also uses a
bearing adapter to fit in the frame, as shown in the picture.]

Tools and Preparation




You'll need a few tools and consumables to do the job correctly:

      3/8" flat-blade screw driver (or Daiwa reel tool),

      Small pick or 1/16" flat-blade screw driver,

      Spool pin pliers,

      Long-nose pliers (preferably with smooth tips),

      Lint-free rag, terry-cloth rag for covering work space, and favorite reel oil,
       and
      Other contingency tools/consumables mentioned in the blog include a
       toothpick, lighter fluid (or similar solvent), and fine file or emery board.

Spool Pins and Pin Pliers
Sometimes a spool pin will be harder to get out (when compared to most others),
depending on several factors. Some factors include the spool configuration,
design of the pin, how long it's been there, if it's been removed before, reel use,
corrosion and whether it was previously bent or knurled. Spool pins are also
usually located near other components which can be easily damaged if you get
careless, slip or use the wrong tool. For example:

      You can damage the bearing while removing or reinstalling the pin, should
       you inadvertently contact or apply axial force on its outer race.

      The side of a spool can be dimpled or crushed if you don't ensure there is
       sufficient clearance beforehand and contact it with the pin pliers. You
       always need to be aware of what is occurring!

      The spool tip or area on the spool shaft adjacent to the pin can get scored
       or burred. (Reports indicate that there is a higher likelihood for this to
       occur if you try to use a standard pair of long-nose pliers to remove the
       pin; which can slip as you apply pressure with the handles.) A scored
       spool tip can cause the spool pinion to vibrate while cranking/casting or
       wear at an accelerated rate, and a raised blemish can make it difficult to
       slide the bearing on/off the spool shaft.

      Some spool shafts are made from aluminum or other soft alloy to reduce
       the weight of the spool. Others may be a smaller diameter like on the
       Presso. So they are especially prone to damage from serrated pliers
       and/or can be easily bent or deformed.

An Important Tip: If you try to grasp the pin to pull and twist it out with a pair of
pliers there is a high likelihood you won't be successful - and may cause
irreparable damage in the process! So, I simply suggest you resist the urge!!!
Having a spool pin get stuck can be a frustrating experience - but having a pin
that is broken-off or bent in the spool shaft can be humbling!

Some pins only have a dimple in their center to keep them in place; while others
have small ridges that run the entire length around their circumference; so
twisting them out is not a good option. Other non-Daiwa pins can be tapered and
only can be removed or reinstalled from one direction (Abu Revos are the latest
example), so always be alert for a tapered spool pin and check each side with a
micrometer if you are unsure.

Another Important Tip: Don't trust your eyesight when trying to determine if a
spool pin is tapered; the difference in diameter is usually too small to accurately
discern! [Many new Revo owners were totally caught off-guard when they did
their bearing upgrade!]
The pins on some Daiwa spools are noted for being extremely difficulty to
remove the first time it is done. The Steez's, some aftermarket spools, and reels
which are no longer in production and have been sitting on a store shelf are
recent examples.

Side Note: I didn't 'sugarcoat' any of the previous points, since you need to be
aware of the obvious risks, pitfalls and potential problems involved in removing
the spool pin. (Be assured that it was not an attempt to scare you away from
replacing your own bearings.) In fact, the vast majority of 'first timers' do
extremely well -- if they have the right tools, take their time, and seek advice
when they have a problem or question. [However, there are many good reel
techs available to do the work should you find you don't have the resources,
mechanical skills, inclination or patience; and there's nothing wrong with that!]
Lastly, if you find you are getting in trouble the best suggestion I can give
is to stop - since things can go down-hill quickly!

The best tool I can recommend for removing and reinstalling the spool pin is a
set of pin pliers that you make yourself. (The topic comes up quite often in the
Maintenance & Supertuning Section of the Tackle Tour forum.) The pliers
minimize the potential for an accidental slip, will press the pin perpendicular to
the spool shaft (if made correctly), won't gall the shaft, or contact the spool
bearing if made/used carefully. Here's a few links that will get you started, they
are not that hard to make:

http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=22551
http://www.tackletour.net/TTForums/viewtopic.php?=41219
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=9097
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=13038
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=18778

[A Big Side Note: Before you ask; no, I don't sell or make them for others....
However, if someone was thinking about starting a side business, this might be a
good product to begin with! There has been a lot of demand for pin pliers over
the years.]
Spool pin pliers with holes for removing the pin. The small peg is used
after the pin has been pushed flush with the spool shaft, to push it the rest
of the way out. [There is no need to use pliers to pull the last part of the pin
out!]

[Small Side Note: Another method for removing a pin involves a small punch,
semi-hard mallet, and support blocks. However, it takes a lot of dexterity,
coordination and care when using them - and can't always be used due to the
location of the pin. So, I won't go into any more detail.]

A few others have made their pin pliers by grinding or filing away part of the side
of a bill, on a pair of pliers. They work O.K. but I don't suggest you use pliers that
have serrations on the tips, for reasons that I previously described.

A Tip: No matter what pliers you use to make your pin pliers, I suggest you
carefully remove any sharp edges, corners, burrs or ridges with a small file; and
lightly polish these areas to remove any blemishes. You'll also want to keep them
in good working order, clean and free of rust. Lastly, resist the urge to use them
for anything but spool pins!
Some members have also reported good success in using a pair of coil crimping
pliers as shown in the adjacent picture. The groove on one tip will accept the
pin, as it is pushed flush with the side of the spool, by the other tip. However I
never have used a pair myself, so can't offer any specific guidance, suggestions,
or information on where to even get them.

However, it's reported that they are available on the net and aren't that
expensive; and I only provide the information as a another possible option. Just
remember if you go this route, to make sure the side of the pliers has sufficient
clearance so they won't inadvertently contact the edge of the spool or the bearing
when pressing the pin, and don't allow them to slip off the pin.

General Precautions




Here are a few general precautions you'll want to be aware of when working on
your reel:

      Do not drop a spool on a hard surface, since a fall from 1' onto workbench
       can dimple an edge of a light spool, and a 3' drop onto a hard floor can
       permanently damage braking components.
      The spool pin and bearing retainer clip can be easily become lost if they
       fall off the bench or get stuck to something.

      You can damage the cage or dimple a race inside a bearing, if it happens
       to fall onto a hard surface!

      Always support the opposite side where the pin exits the spool shaft, when
       you push a spool pin out of its hole, and never allow significant force to be
       applied directly on the spool itself during the process. You can warp a
       lighter spool (e.g. out of round, bent side), or adversely affect the joint
       between the spool and spool shaft if you do. A Tip: Use spool pin pliers to
       remove the spool pin; it makes things so much easier. You can lightly hold
       the spool with one hand, and support the spool shaft while using the pliers
       with the other.

      Exercise appropriate precautions when dealing with solvents. They are
       flammable, toxic, irritants, etc.

Another Tip: Do yourself a favor and cover your workspace with an old
terrycloth towel to help mitigate the potential for loss, damage or parts rolling off
the workbench. Also make sure you have plenty of light and space.

Procedure

Note: I'll assume that the bearings you are going to install have already been
cleaned. [It's a good practice to always clean new bearings, even if you order
them dry. Some 'dry' bearings may have packaging lubricant or a light
preservative on them that may not be compatible with some reel oils.] You'll find
more information on how to clean your bearings in the Maintenance &
Supertuning Section of the Tackle Tour Forum or in the Bearings 201 Article in
the Review Archives. I'll also assume your bearings have been lubricated with
your favorite spool oil.
1. Back-off Spool Tension: Reduce spool tension until force from the pinion
under the tension knob no longer acts on the palm plate. This is an important
habit to establish when ever you remove the palm plate on a Daiwa reel - since
you can damage the palm plate.

Tabs on the inside of the palm plate prevent the magnet set plate from moving
when the palm plate is rotated from the frame. If a lot of force from spool tension
acts on the plate these tabs can get broken - and then you won't be able to
remove the palm plate! [This seems to occur more on the Lexan Aphas Ito palm
plate, than any of the other low profile models.] So, never try to remove a palm
plate while excessive spool tension is placed on the spool. See my previous
Inside the Daiwa Palm Plate blog for details.
2. Break the Plate Screw Loose: Loosen the large screw located in the center
of the magnetic brake adjustment knob. Sometimes on a new reel you need to
use a Daiwa tool (you get it with some reels), or a 3/8" flat-blade screwdriver to
initially break it free.

A Tip: I've found that I don't need to re-tighten the screw with a tool, since it puts
a lot of stress on the underside of the plate where it meets the frame; and you
can eventually damage the palm plate in the process of repeatedly removing and
reinstalling it. So, most of the time I tighten mine down with a thumb nail, and
only need to apply a little pressure on the screw with my thumb or thumb nail to
loosen it later. [You'll find a picture later in the blog; which shows the area that
could get damaged on the palm plate.]




3. Unscrew the Plate Screw: Use a finger tip or thumb tip to unscrew the large
screw the rest of the way. The screw should turn easily even though it is spring
loaded and it should turn smoothly as you unscrew it. It is is retained with the rest
of the brake knob components in the palm plate, so you only need to unscrew it
until it clears the threads in the frame.

If the screw happens to feel rough as you unscrew it, clean off the threads with a
small brush after you remove the plate and put a very light film of reel oil or
grease on them before you reinstall the plate. A Tip: You'd wish you had done
this step if you've ever had a palm plate screw jam in a reel frame! It's more likely
that this will occur on an aluminum framed reel (e.g. Alphas ito), but can also
happen with some magnesium alloy frames. Look up the word "fretting" on
Google.
4. Rotate and Remove the Palm Plate: Once the screw is completely loosened,
the plate can be pivoted about 1/8 of a turn to disengage the tabs from the frame
and it can be removed. Rotate the front of the palm plate as shown in the picture.

Sometimes the spool will come out of the frame when the palm plate is removed,
because of the fit between the spool tip and the bearing located in the plate.
However, just slide the spool out of the frame, if it doesn't.

Tips: Occasionally, the spool pin may hang-up in the pinion gear, so it may help
to disengage the spool with the release bar. In addition, when you remove the
spool you are actually pulling the spool side clutch bearing from the bearing
socket in the frame, and the fit may be a little snug on a new reel.
5. Inspect the Spool and Palm Plate: Inspect the spool and ring magnets for
excess oil, debris, or corrosion and clean as necessary. Resist the urge to blow
off any debris or oil on the magnets with a can of compressed air.

Also inspect ring magnets for damaged paint or coating, since you can have
problems later as the condition degrades with reel use and time. You'll find more
information on servicing the ring magnets in my previous blogs.

Lastly set the spool aside in a safe location. You don't want it to roll off the work
bench or let the cat bat it around your workshop. [I'm ashamed to admit that the
later actually happened to one of my Sol spools!]




6. Remove the Bearing Retainer Clip: I suspect just about anyone who has
disassembled a reel has lost more than one bearing retainer. Those small clips
seem to have a mind of their own; frequently getting launched into the infinite
vacuum of space by the spring force that keeps them mounted! So trust me; if
you’ve never removed one before, you want to take action so you don’t loose the
clip. They are so small that they are almost impossible to find.

I like to put a finger or thumb over part of the clip to restrain it, as I push a small
screwdriver or pick on one side of the clip to work the retainer out of its groove.
Some perform this step with the side plate in a clear plastic bag in case the
retainer clip flies out; and still others may use a pair of tweezers to grab, hold and
remove it. Do whatever you are comfortable with, but just make sure you do
something to keep from loosing the clip!
Try not to scratch the anodized metal on the bearing socket or coating on the
magnets when removing the clip! Damaged paint on the magnets can be a
problem later (see my previous Inside the Daiwa Palm Plate blog).
Link: http://tackletog.com/superttuning/2009/05/27/inside-the-daiwa-palm-plate/




7. Grab the Clip: Grab the clip when it is free of the groove in the bearing
socket.

Sometimes the clip will be attracted to the braking magnets, so carefully remove
it to prevent damaging the paint and set it aside so it doesn't get lost.

A Tip: If the clip gets lost resist the urge to use the reel until you install a new
one. The reel may initially cast fine, but the bearing will slowly works its way out
of the bottom of the socket while cranking, until it finally makes contact with the
machined edge that holds the braking components to the spool shaft. The net
result is that noise and vibration will increase while cranking, and the bearing will
quickly wear because it does not track properly.
8. Remove the bearing - Once the clip is removed the bearing is free to come
out of its socket. However, sometimes the bearing will tilt and become stuck in
the socket. If this occurs, just very-lightly press around the top of the outer race
to re-level the bearing and then pull it out. In addition, stray static magnetic force
can hold the bearing in the socket as it begins to clear the top of the inner ring.
So, gently grab it with a pair of tweezers, bent paper clip or a small pick to get it
the rest of the way out. A Tip: I do not suggest tapping the palm plate on an
open palm to remove the bearing, because the bearing can "catapult" out of the
socket when no longer affected by magnetic force from the magnets. If it hits a
hard surface it can be damaged!




9. Insert the New Bearing - Insert the new bearing in the bearing socket. The
new bearing should go in with out much force. However, if it gets titled it can stick
and not want to move; just lightly press the edges of the outer race to re-align it.
In addition, stray magnetic force from the inner magnet ring may keep it from
going all the way into the bottom of the socket, so you'll have to push it down as
you install the bearing retainer clip in the next step. [I elected to leave the seals
on my Boca Orange Seals, but that's just my preference. Others may choose to
remove one or both seals.]

Note: If installing the bearing with one of the seals removed, put the seal toward
the top of the bearing socket; where excess oil expelled from the bearing will not
get on braking components, and there is less potential for debris or water to get
in the bearing.




10. Install the Bearing Retainer Clip: Be careful when reinstalling the bearing
retainer; it can fly out of the bearing socket and get lost just as easily as when
you removed it. I cover part of the retainer with a finger/thumb after I put 2 sides
of the retainer in its mounting groove; and then use a small screwdriver or pick to
push the last side into the groove.

A Tip: Inspect the clip again when you think you have it installed, because
sometimes the last side you inserted will not be all the way into its groove. Nudge
it downward into the groove if necessary, since it might come all the way out
when making a cast. When it does come out you can expect a major bird nest,
as the clip gets jammed against the spool inductor and inner magnet!
11. Prepare the pin for removal: The spool pin will need to be removed in order
to replace the gear side spool bearing. I always put a partial drop of WD-40 or
good reel oil on both sides of a pin, and let it set for a bit before attempting to
press out the pin.

The small amount of oil will lubricate the pin and may help break-down corrosion
between the pin and spool shaft.

A Tip: I don't recommend WD-40 be used in a reel very often, but this is one
case where I do. However, after using it you'll want to locally clean the spool
shaft. I'll have more on this later.




12. Press Out the Spool Pin: [Remember some non-Daiwa spools might have a
tapered pin, so they can only be removed from one direction.] Position the spool
pin pliers so one side of the pin is in the hole and the other side is in the dimple
of the other bill. Press firmly with the handles while lightly supporting the rest of
the spool - just make sure the pliers don't contact the edge of the spool or the
bearing!

A Tip: Check as often as necessary to ensure the pliers don't contact the edge of
the spool or bearing whenever pressure will be applied with the handles.

Note: If you apply a lot of force on the pin you run the risk that it will bend or
even break-off. However, this seldom happens with pin pliers, because they
essentially press perpendicular to the spool shaft and in-line with the hole. But
you may find that you've knurled the end of the pin over, which will make it
impossible to get it through the hole. In this case, you'll need to re-dress the end
of the pin with a small file, similar to the way you remove a burr at the hole on the
spool shaft (in Step 14).




13. Pull the Pin Out: Push the pin out to the point that it is flush with the side of
the spool shaft (about half of the pin will be pushed through the other side of the
hole). Then grasp it with a pair of long nose or duck bill pliers and gently remove
it the rest of the way. Just make sure you don't contact the side of the spool,
spool edge or bearing when pulling it out the rest of the way!

A Special Note and Tip: Most owners, who have damaged their spool or
bearing, reported that it occurred while pulling the pin the rest of the way out of
the spool shaft! The pin will be slippery because of the oil, so grasping and
pulling it can be difficult. If you intend to replace the pin, you might use a pair of
long nose pliers that have serrated tips for a better grip. Alternately, you can
wipe off excess oil, or even clean the exposed part of the pin with a rag
dampened in lighter fluid (or other solvent).
Once you get the pin out check it for obvious damage if you intend to re-use it.
Knock down any knurled edges on the end, burrs, etc. with a small file or emery
board (just try not to get carried away when doing this). Put it in a safe location
so it doesn't get lost. Trust me when I say it can roll away on its own!




14. Remove the Bearing: Once the pin is removed the old bearing is free to
come off the spool shaft. I usually tip the bearing over on its end and allow the
bearing to fall into my open palm. But sometimes you'll need to grab the bearing
between a finger and thumb to gently slide it off the shaft.

Occasionally, a small burr on the edge of the pin hole will prevent the bearing
from coming all the way off, especially on a spool where the pin has been
repeatedly pulled and reinstalled. You can use a small file or emery board to
remove a burr at the hole, just make sure you don't contact the bearing or the
area on the spool shaft where the center race normally fits with the bearing. Also
try to prevent filings from getting inside the bearing; by putting a piece of masking
tape over the shield and races. When the burr has been removed, then try to
remove the bearing again.

A Tip: If the bearing gets hung up on a burr at the pin hole resist the urge to
force it off. You can quickly damage a miniature bearing by putting excess axial
force across the balls and races. In addition, there's a high probability that you'll
score the shaft as you force it off, since the burr from the hole typically gets
dragged between the center race and spool shaft - and the bearing can get
stuck! Do it right and remove the burr beforehand!
15. Lubricate the Spool Shaft and Tip: You've probably affected any lubrication
that was on the spool shaft when you handled the spool. So it will need to be
resorted before mounting the new bearing; but we need to do a little cleaning
first. We need to remove the WD-40 that we used on the spool pin and any
debris or metal filings we generated from pulling the pin.

[Side Note: I’ve always found it best if residual WD-40 is removed before
applying reel lubricants; because it can prevent them from adhering properly. In
addition, the light oil and water displacement property of the WD-40 doesn’t last
very long in an environment like our fishing reels, when compared to good reel
oils.]

First, use a lint free rag dipped in a little lighter fluid (or other solvent), and wipe
the areas between the red-X’s shown in the preceding picture. Be sure to cover
the entire circumference of these areas. Next take the toothpick and dip it in the
lighter fluid and clean out the hole that the spool pin fits into. There’s no need to
get carried away with the lighter fluid, but let the surfaces dry before proceeding.
(Also exercise appropriate precautions when using the lighter fluid; it is
flammable, an irritant, etc.) Then put a partial drop of light reel oil on a clean
finger tip, and lightly rub it across the spool tip and around the circumference of
the spool shaft marked with the red-X's. Remember, less is better – you just want
to establish a very-light film so spool tension works properly and so the center
race of the bearing is free to axially move on the spool shaft when reinserted in
the frame and during use! Lastly, put a very small amount of reel oil on the other
end of the tooth pick and lightly-coat the inside of the spool pin hole with the
tooth pick.

 [Side Note: The bottle of oil shown in the left picture is Oust Met Oil. I have
been using it on all of my Abec 7 bearings for 'uber' performance. You can get it
from smoothdrag.com....]
16. Mount the New Bearing: The new bearing should slide all the way to the
machined edge inside the spool. So verify that there is sufficient clearance
between the hole for the spool pin and edge of the bearing; if not then something
is causing the bearing to hang-up.

I elected to leave the seals on my Boca Orange Seals, but that’s just my
preference. Others may elect to remove one or both seals.

Note: If installing the bearing with one of the seals removed, put the seal toward
the inside of the spool, so there is less potential for debris or water to get in the
bearing and it may be easier to clean the bearing without removing it.




17. Insert One Side of the Spool Pin: Insert one side of the spool pin to the
point that the dimple is touching the side of the spool shaft. I like to orient the
dimple on the pin as shown in the picture; it seems to always go in a little easier
this way. However, if the pin has serrated edges running down the outside of its
circumference, you may have to align it so it mates with any serrated edges
inside the hole. Just rotate and slide it in until the serrations mate in this case. A
Tip: There is probably sufficient oil at the hole to lubricate the pin when you
press it back in (if you performed Step 15). [It’s obvious, but I thought I should
mention that if the pin is tapered it will only fit one way.]




18. Press-In the Pin: Position the spool pin pliers so the end of the pin you press
is in the dimple of the bill, and the other side of the bill with the hole is aligned
over the hole in the spool shaft. Press slowly with the handles while lightly
supporting the rest of the spool – just make sure the pliers don’t contact the edge
of the spool or the bearing!

Take your time and be careful so the pliers do not contact the side of the spool or
new bearing. Try to push the pin in so it is centered on the spool shaft.

It should not take as much force on the handles to reinstall the pin, as it did to
remove it. If it does then something is wrong. Either you did not remove any
knurled edges on the pin, or did not clean and lubricate the hole before hand.
19. Center the Pin: It is important that the spool pin be centered on the spool
shaft. Move the pin as necessary with the pin pliers, so an equal length of pin
ends up on each side of the spool shaft. A Tip: If the pin is not centered it can
contact the bearing socket inside the frame (or even the center race of the large
pinion gear bearing on some frames). You usually have about .5 mm clearance
on a side before this occurs, and can look at the pin to see when it is properly
centered. Sometimes I look straight down at the spool tip, and use the shield/seal
on the side of the bearing as a way to determine when the pin is properly
centered.

(By the way, the pin in the picture is centered. It may not look like it due to the tilt
of the spool.) 




20. Reinstall the spool and side plate: Reinstall the spool, side plate and lock it
in place with the plate screw. (Reversing the process described in Steps 1 thru
4.)
Note: There is no need to excessively tighten the screw, since you can damage
the palm plate; only tighten it enough so you don't loose the plate on the water!

21: Reset Spool Tension and Braking: Lastly, don't forget to re-tighten spool
tension and set the brake adjustment knob when you are done - and before you
make your first cast!

Hopefully you’ve been able to follow along and complete the upgrade. I’ve
included a copy of this blog in Word format, since you may want to have the
instructions while doing the upgrade at your bench! You can download the .doc
file to your hard drive and print it out.




Completed Alphas-F, ready for a few practice casts!

[CLICK HERE] for Word copy of this blog.

- dModder


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