Learning Center
Plans & pricing Sign in
Sign Out



									                              Fabric Painted Pears
                                    TC Folk Original Design

Materials and Supplies For 1 Pear (approximately 3” diameter by 4” high):
*Pear pattern
*Scrap of muslin 7” X 25”
*All purpose thread
*Upholstery thread
*Polyester fiberfill
*Twigs from any tree or bush appropriate for pear stems
*Craft paints in leaf green, bright yellow and chocolate brown
*Satin varnish
*Antique varnish
*Toothbrush for “fly specking”
*Small round paintbrush
*6” Doll needle

For One Pear: Pear is 5 sided.
*Fold muslin into 5 layers large enough to fit pear pattern. Pin Pattern to folded muslin
following straight of grain arrow. Cut out. You have 5 pear pieces in muslin.
*Allowing a generous 1/8” seam allowance, sew all 5 pieces to each other, one at a time,
with right sides together from tops to bottoms, forming a complete pear or bowling pin
shaped circle. You have 5 seams.
*Clip Curves, turn right side out.
*Stuff firmly.
*Thread doll needle with 2 or 3 yards doubled upholstery thread. You will have 4 strands
when needle is threaded.
*Gather bottom of pear with running stitch and pull closed. Go around bottom again and
tie off to secure, but do not cut thread.
*Insert needle up thru bottom and come out at top of pear. Take small stitch in one top
seam of pear and bring needle back down to corresponding bottom seam of pear. Pull
thread to draw down top and pull up bottom. Do not pull too tight or it will be a very
short, squat pear.
*Continue in this manner until you have 5 stitches in bottom and corresponding top
seams, keeping threads vertical in pear and not crossed. Pear should be nicely indented on
top and bottom and have an appealing pear shape.
*Finish bottom of pear by wrapping thread 4 or 5 times around needle and sliding off to
make knot, which will form the calyx on bottom of pear.
*Bring thread up to top and cut. Make sure hole in pear top is about 1/8” in diameter in
order to insert stem later.
*Arrange the stuffing in pear by poking a strong needle into top and bottom to lift and
adjust stuffing to round out the “humps” for a pleasing appearance on top and bottom of
*Make sure the bottom of pear sits level on flat surface.
To make the stem:
*Cut tree/bush stem to length to suit taste. You should allow at least ½ inch below the
surface in hole and ¾ inch to show on top.
*Test fit stem in hole of pear.

*Paint pear with 2 or 3 coats of gesso, allowing it to dry between each coat.
*Paint pear with one coat of leaf green paint. Allow it to dry.
*Dry brush the pear with a thin coat of bright yellow paint, making sure a hint of leaf
green shows thru in places. Paint a second thin coat of yellow paint at the top and the
widest point on the bottom of the pear. Take your time and stand back and observe the
pear to make sure you are getting a realistic, subtle blend of the green and yellow. The
color changes should not be obvious.
*Dip toothbrush in chocolate brown paint and flyspeck pear to taste.
*Using the paintbrush, paint the bottom calyx and the top around hole, making sure to
paint down into the hole, with chocolate brown paint. You may want to slightly thin
paint with water for best results, using the thinner paint to fade out the brown.
*Using thinned paint and the paintbrush make one or two “bruises” in likely places.
Make the bruises like commas, allowing some of the background to show thru the
thinned paint. Allow pear to dry.
*Inspect the pear for overall appearance of the blending of the paint. If necessary,
reapply flyspecking to tone down the yellow.
*Varnish pear with one coat of clear satin varnish. Allow it to dry.
*Varnish pear with one coat of antique varnish. Allow it to dry.
*Touch up stem with chocolate paint if necessary and allow it to dry.
*Varnish stem with antique varnish. Allow it to dry.

Pears must be completely dry before assembly.

*Push stem into top of pear and adjust for pleasing angle. If hole is too loose, hold them
in place with glue of your choice. If hole is too small, use a tapered pencil to enlarge
hole, or use a smaller stem.
*Touch up with chocolate paint and varnish if needed.

Flyspecking: Dip toothbrush into paint and rub finger or thumb over the top of the
bristles, pointing the toothbrush 5 or 6 inches from surface to be painted. This produces
small irregular shaped “dots” all over surface being painted. Keep the brush moving for
even coverage. Make sure the surrounding area of item being painted is protected. This
is messy! (But fun!)
Antique Varnish: Antique varnish can be made using the satin varnish and small
amount of brown and yellow craft paint, mixed to taste to give yellowish brown cast.

To top