Italian cuisine It's simple by wuyunyi


									 A TideTables Feature

Italian cuisine? It’s simple
The Landmark’s uncomplicated                                                            Fisherman’s Pasta, which is cooked in a
                                                                                        light tomato sauce flavored with herbs
                                                                                                                                                                                                 rying around,
                                                                                                                                                                                                 and the wind,”
                                                                                        and wine, and tossed with shrimp, crab,                                                                  Marilyn said. “I
Italian (and other) cuisine, live                                                       cod or salmon. Seafoodies swoon, too,                                                                    think it’s one of
                                                                                        over the Cioppino, a bowl full of Dunge-                                                                 the top scenic
music and stunning views                                                                ness crab, bay shrimp, cod, salmon and                                                                   spots on the
                                                                                        halibut simmered in a spicy tomato broth                                                                 coast. It’s con-
                                       By Niki Price                                    with wine and herbs. Other Ciafone fam-                                                                  stantly chang-
                         OREGON COAST TODAY                                             ily recipes include the Mushroom Pasta,                                                                  ing.”
                                                                                        Shrimp Scampi, Five-Cheese Ravioli,                                                                         Then again,
         It’s been five and a half years since Marilyn Ciafone,                          Chicken Parmesan and Baked Ziti, all                                                                     so is the mu-
      an Italian-American from Long Island, New York, first                              served with garlic bread and salad. Diners                                                               sic schedule
      took over the kitchen at the Landmark Restaurant. The                             can even say “buongiorno” at breakfast by                                                                next door, at
      first order of business, she recalls, was to eliminate the                         ordering Pomodoro Italiano, which fea-                                                                   the Landmark
      favorite crutch of the uninspired cook: “And cheese.”                             tures basted eggs and tomatoes cooked in                                                                 Lounge. Bruce,
         Every recipe she encountered seemed to end the                                 olive oil.                                                                                               a former music
      same way: “And cheese.” The dishes, with overwrought,                                “There are lots more dishes that I could                                                              journalist and
      too-spicy sauces and covered with a thick layer of                                present, but I think that people are still                                                               lifelong blues
      cheese, bore little relation to the straightforward, deli-                        getting used to the idea that there’s a                                                                  devotee, books
      cious, even healthy Italian cooking that she grew up                              really good Italian restaurant outside of                                                                intriguing acts
      with.                                                                             Portland,” Marilyn said. “I don’t want to                                                                from around
         “In real Italian cooking, you want to taste each of the                        make it too fancy. I’m trying to keep it to                                                              the country. He
                                                                                                things that people will recognize,                                                               offers an over-
                                                                                                 and do fewer things well.”                                                                      night stay at the
                                                                                                    Bruce Olson, Marilyn’s husband                                                               view apartment
                                                                                                 and co-owner of the Landmark,                                                                   upstairs, a few
                                                                                                 was raised in Washington state                                                                  hearty Italian
                                                                                                 but also lived in New York City                                                                 meals and a
                                                                                                 for many years. They both miss a favorite            music-loving audience that few musicians expect from
                                                                                                 Greenwich Village treat: cannoli, the tube-          such a tiny town; as a result, the Landmark has hosted
                                                                                                 shaped shells of fried pastry dough, filled with      national touring acts like zydeco phenomenon Curley
                                                                                                 a sweet, creamy filling. Now, thanks to a new         Taylor, blues guitarist Terry Evans and gypsy punk
                                                                                                 vendor, they’re able to serve cannoli that are       rockers Luminescent Orchestrii. Thanksgiving offerings
                                                                                                 “the real Italian cannolis, and they’re delicious.   include Vibe Nation, a band that calls its music “evolu-
                                                                                                 They’re the right size, they have the right look,    tionary reggae.”
                                                                                                 they’re just right,” Marilyn said. “We found this       Business has been good at the Landmark, Bruce said,
                                                                                                 company, a small bakery that has recently ex-        because the cuisine has fed the interest in the music.
                                                                                                 panded, and they have beautiful Italian canno-       And vice versa.
                                                                                                 lis, just like we would                                                     “Some people started to come here
                                                                                                 get in Greenwich                                                         for the food, and saw the band post-
                                                                                                 Village. They’re just                                                    ers on the wall. And others would
                                                                                                 gorgeous.”                                                               come for the music and order off
                                                                                                    Cannoli fans might                                                    the late night menu, and discover
                                                                                                 not need to read on,                                                     our food. We’ve seen a synergetic
                                                                                                 but the Landmark                                                         relationship between the two sides
                                                                                                 does offer other                                                         of the business,” he said. “The word
                                                                                                 amenities. Their fish                                                     has gotten out in Eugene, and it
                                                                                                 and chips plates pres-                                                   seems like lots of people are com-
                                                                                                 ent lightly-battered                                                     ing over to make a weekend of it.
                                                                                                 fresh cod, halibut                                                       They’re getting a motel, coming to
                                                                                                 or salmon, fried in                                                      the Landmark for dinner, and then
                                                                                                 canola oil and served                                                    moving into the lounge at 9 p.m. for
                                                                                                 with French fries and                                                    the show. Then, they come back the
                                                                                                 homemade coleslaw.                                                       next day for breakfast.”
Marilyn Ciafone and Bruce Olson, the owners of the Landmark Restaurant and Lounge, take          They keep their visi-                                                       According to Marilyn, the food
a break in the corner table. At right, a bowl of Five-Cheese Ravioli that even looks good to
the resident seagull. OCT photos by Niki Price.                                                  tors happy with other                                                    is good because the kitchen staff
                                                                                                 seaside favorites, from                                                  — and even the owners — are
                                                                                                 steamer clams and                                                        happy.
                                                                                                 crab cakes to a kids’                                                       “It’s really important to have a
      ingredients: the tomatoes, the basil, whatever it is. You                         menu, with corn dogs and                                                          happy kitchen, especially with Ital-
      don’t want to obliterate everything with all that cheese. spaghetti. Sandwiches, such                                                                               ian cooking. It has to be presented
      Italian cooking is straight on, and you can tell the dif-                         as the Yachats Rounder (with                                                     with love. If you’re not happy, it
      ference,” Marilyn said. “It’s uncomplicated.”                                     Italian meatballs) and the Pesto Sandwich (with fresh         shows in the cooking.”
         So she set to work, clearing out the heavy sauces,                             mozzarella and homemade pesto), are served on fresh,             And, cheese.
      pre-packaged mixes and frozen portions, and created a                             crusty French baguettes.
      menu of fresh, simple Italian cuisine served along with a                            As hard as Marilyn has worked, however, some                  The Landmark Restaurant, 111 Hwy. 101 in Yachats, is open
      beachy selection of seafood, salads, chowder and sand-                            people may not remember her cuisine at all — they’re          from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.
      wiches. Whatever the Landmark kitchen prepares, she                               usually transfixed by the view. Every table in the res-        Friday and Saturday, and 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. The kitchen
      said, is made with care and simplicity, using authentic                           taurant has a full view of the estuary, where the Yachats     at the Landmark Lounge offers a late night menu until 1:15 a.m.
      fresh ingredients.                                                                River meets the wide Pacific, and its resident sea otters,     on Friday and Saturday nights. To learn more, call the restaurant,
         “Even the way we approach our fish is Italian. I only                           gulls, eagles, people and pets.                               541-547-3215, or the lounge, 541-547-5459.
      order a certain amount each day, because I always want                               “People come here in the winter just to watch the
      to be really fresh. And we don’t smother the fish in                               storms, because when you’re sitting in our dining room,
      sauce. It’s just delicious fresh fish, right off the grill,” she you’re hanging over the cliff. It feels like you’re on a                           TideTables is an advertiser-sponsored
      said.                                                                             ship. You can watch these huge trees rolling down the         feature of the Oregon Coast Today. To include your
         One of the Landmark’s most popular items is the                                ocean and pushing back, and the seals and animals scur-
                                                                                                                                                      restaurant in an upcoming edition, call 541-921-2306.

18 • oregon coast today • 16 november 2007

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