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FLUSH LOGIC
The Working of a Flush Valve
Flush valves in themselves are very
reliable. They have been used over the
last 60 to 70 years as the means for waste
evacuation of commercial fixtures. The
following is a simple explanation of the
working of a flush valve.
Flush Valves Require Two Important
Factors For Their Operation
• Adequate water line pressure.
(minimum 15 psi)
• Adequate pipe size to maintain a volume
of water to sustain the water line
pressure.
In professionally engineered commercial
projects the plumbing engineer is
responsible for these two factors.
Typical Pipe Sizing
Commercial / Institutional
Building
Saint Frank Lastowski Hospital and
Golfer’s Rehab Center
6th Floor
5th Floor
4th Floor
3rd Floor
2nd Floor
1st Floor
What’s in the Flush Valve
The Flush Valve Diaphragm Kit and its components.
The things that make it all happen.
Trip Mechanism/Relief Valve
P6000-EC13 Closet
Inside Plastic Cover
P6000-EU13 Urinal Molded Disc
P6000-L
P6000-E14
Diaphragm Orifice
or By-pass Hole
Diaphragm Kit (Shown in Full Assembly)
Diaphragm
Guide Ring
Cylinder Guide
Before The Valve is Activated
Diaphragm Orifice
Flush valve at rest
or By-pass Hole Diaphragm
Before a flush, the water
pressure above and below
Trip Mechanism
the diaphragm are equal due
to the diaphragm orifice or
by-pass hole passage
between them.
The trip mechanism and
diaphragm are sealed and at
rest. No water is flushing.
Activation of the Valve
Molded Disc
Once the handle is pushed, the
Trip Mechanism trip mechanism is tipped and
breaks its seal with the molded
disc.
Water from the area above the
Handle
diaphragm is dumped into the
outlet bore of the valve through
the cylinder guide. This lowers
the pressure above the
diaphragm.
Action After Valve is Activated
The higher water
pressure under the
Molded Disc diaphragm pushes the
diaphragm kit upward off
the outlet bore of the
Valve Outlet Bore
valve.
Trip Mechanism Water Flow The outlet bore is now
open and the flush
begins.
After the trip mechanism
clears the actuator rod, it
Actuator Rod
seats with the molded
disk and seals the top
diaphragm area.
As the Valve Flushes
Water in the body and inlet
rush down the open outlet
bore.
Diaphragm Orifice
or By-pass Hole
Inlet The higher water pressure
Valve Outlet Bore below the diaphragm
Body forces water through the
Water
Flow
orifice or by-pass hole into
the area above the
diaphragm and begins the
process of building
pressure above the
diaphragm.
The Flush Terminating
As the pressure above the
diaphragm builds, it forces
the diaphragm down back
Diaphragm toward the outlet bore.
Valve Outlet Bore
Water rushing down the
Guide Ring outlet bore hits the guide
ring and also helps push the
diaphragm kit downward.
As the diaphragm approaches the bore, a
seal starts to be made and the flush begins
to terminate. The flush valve shuts off
quietly and is ready for the next activation
and returns back to the rested position.
Determine the Flush
The thickness and shape of the flow ring, Trip Mechanism
the orifice size, the length of the trip
mechanism and the guide ring determine
the flush duration and volume. Molded Disc
Different Flows:
Water Closets: Diaphragm
4.5 GPF
3.5 GPF Flow Ring
1.6 GPF
Urinals: Guide Ring
3.0 GPF
1.5 GPF Cylinder Guide
1.0 GPF
AquaVantage and Aquaflush
Kit Configurations
The next three slides will show the kit
configurations for the flows that are
desired. Note the Color of the Trip
Mechanism and Flow Ring that
produces the proper GPF for each kit.
Valve Trouble Shooting
• Valve not shutting off
• Cause - Debris lodged in the diaphragm orifice, debris under the trip mechanism, debris
or buildup of chemicals from hard water on the molded disc.
• Fix - Clean or replace affected parts.
• Non Functional Handle - Handle will not activate valve and appears to be in
flush position.
• Cause - Broken retainer or spring
• Fix - replace broken part and add Silicone grease
• Leaking around the valve cap at top of valve
• Cause - Cracked inner cover (P6000-L) or a loose outer cover
• Fix - Replace inner cover (P6000-L) or tighten outer cover to torque 25”#
• Leaking at the stop nut
• Cause - Bad O’ring on tailpiece (P6000-C31)
• Fix - Replace the O’ring (P6000-C31)
• Leaking at the Handle
• Cause - Bad handle seal, ripped or missing handle gasket or handle nut not tightened
• Fix - replace handle seal, replace or put on a handle gasket, tighten handle nut
Valve Trouble Shooting con’t
• Leaking at top of Vacuum Breaker Tube
• Cause - Bad vacuum breaker
• Fix - Replace with new vacuum breaker repair kit (P6000-B)
• Flush Valve will not flush
• Cause - Broken trip, trip mechanism lodged in up position, no water available
• Fix - Replace broken trip (P6000-EC13 (closet) or P6000-EU13 (urinal)), clean trip
mechanism so that the lower part will flop up and down freely, make sure that the stop
valve is in the on position or make sure that the main water supply is turned on
• Run-on Flush
• Cause - possible debris on the valve internals or the orifice may be plugged
• Fix - Clean the internal parts of the valve and/or make sure the orifice is clear
• Short flush
• Cause - Molded retainer is unscrewed, the flush kit is undersized for fixture being used,
running pressure too low
• Fix - the molded retainer should be torqued to 15”#, upgrade to a new kit to flush
according to the fixture rate, re-size the water system
Flush Valve Parts
Zurn Flush Logic
This presentation was compiled by the following:
Tim O’Connor - Sanford Engineering
Jody Randall - Supervisor Customer Service
February 2004
Zurn Industries, Inc.
Commercial Brass Products
5900 Elwin Buchanan Drive
Sanford, NC 27330
1-800-997-3876
Website: www.zurn.com
