Melbourne 2005

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					      Melbourne 2005
        12 September 2005 - 19 September 2005



                                                 Monday, 12 September 2005 - Departure
6:15 pm
Depart from home to KLIA.

7:15 pm
Arrive at KLIA. Proceed to check-in.

9:15 pm
Depart from KLIA to Melbourne via flight MH 149


                                                                                            Tuesday, 13 September 2005
6:45 am
Arrive at Melbourne Airport. Proceed to check-out.

9:00 am

Arrive at hotel. Check-in.

10:00 am onwards
Explore City Centre: Collins Street, Bourke Street, 7 City Arcades

Night: Explore Docklands area

Collins Street
Majestic and tree-lined, Collins Street exudes style and glamour. It’s a boulevard of grand heritage buildings, chic designer shop-
ping, five-star hotels, exclusive jewellers and private clubs. It’s also the city’s premier commercial streetscape and home to big cor-
porations and the stock exchange.

Shopping in leafy Collins Street usually means one thing: shopping for high-end jewellery, fashion and luxury goods at flagship
stores including Chanel, Tiffany & Co., and Louis Vuitton. A more relaxed shopping style can be found further west, in the middle
section of Collins Street between Swanston and Elizabeth streets, where the bustling retail centres of two3four and Australia on
Collins house many chain and concept stores.

Striking architecture can be found along the entire length of Collins Street, ranging from historic Gothic-style churches to Art Deco
delights, magnificent theatres, and a Galleria Vittoria inspired arcade. For a different aspect, the Melbourne Observation Deck offers
360 degree views of the city.

Little Collins Street
While Collins Street is all class, its little sister is an enclave of cool. From haute couture to hip culture and funky threads, Little Col-
lins Street is where the city’s streetwise head to shop. You’ll find some of Melbourne’s best designers and boutiques here, and the
stretch between Swanston and Russell streets is lined with the best in menswear.

After a solid day’s shopping there are plenty of cool bars hidden in laneways or upstairs like Gin Palace, Tony Starr’s Kitten Club or
Hairy Canary. Then there is Howey Place and The Causeway where you can play ‘dodge the table’ in narrow lanes oozing with
European ambience and style, or sit yourself down at one of the many cafes and watch the world go by.

Flinders Quarter
Once the home of the city’s rag trade, the chunky façades of Flinders Lane now house groovy bars, apartments, and artisans and
designers producing and selling eccentric to exquisite fashion and accessories.

Flinders Lane is the shopping destination for the hip and happening. The stretch between Swanston and Elizabeth streets is lined
with distinctly Melbourne boutiques like Christine (selling fashion and accessories) and Alice Euphemia (experimental designs by
young and emerging designers), and it's just a few steps to Cathedral Arcade (edgy fashion), and the Nicholas Building (shops, gal-
leries and studios). And if you think heaven is waiting for a bite, make your way to Compleat Angler and Compleat Flyfisher, be-
tween Queen and Market Streets.

Flinders Lane is also the city’s key commercial gallery precinct and houses Australia’s densest concentration of commercial galler-
ies. There are a number of galleries that specialise in indigenous art, as well as Craft Victoria, a gallery that showcases the work
of the state’s finest craftspeople.

Head to Centre Place, Scott Place and Degraves Street for atmospheric hole-in-the-wall cafes and eateries. At night follow the 'in
crowd' down one of the alleys to discover some of the best bars in town.


Magnificent Seven City Arcades
The city's network of shop-encrusted arcades is Australia's most extensive with the Block Arcade (between Collins and Elizabeth
streets, built in 1891) its undeniable crowning glory boasting imported Italian mosaic floors, glazed ceilings supported by elaborate
iron-lace columns, and octagonal glass domes. Royal Arcade (between Bourke Street Mall and Little Collins Street, built in 1869), is
Melbourne's oldest and features two wonderful folklore giants of the ancient Britons, who strike the hour.

Other arcades such as Collins two3four, Australia on Collins, The Walk, the Galleria Shopping Plaza and Centrepoint Mall offer an
impressive mix of large flagship stores, unique owner-operated shops and quality cafes and foodcourts and all the arcades sit within
a block of each other off Little Collins Street.

The Block Arcade
282 Collins Street, CBD
Ph +61 3 9654 5244

Royal Arcade
308 Little Collins Street
Ph +61 3 9629 8888

Australia on Collins
260 Collins Street, CBD
Ph +61 3 9650 4355

Collins two3four
234 Collins Street, CBD
Ph +61 3 9650 4373

The Walk Arcade
317 Bourke Street, CBD
Ph +61 3 9654 6744

Galleria Shopping Plaza
Corner Bourke and Elizabeth Streets, CBD
Ph +61 3 9604 5800

Centrepoint Mall
283 Bourke Street, CBD
Ph +61 3 9654 1722

Swanston Street and Bourke Street Mall
The city’s civic spine and main parade route starts and ends with a pair of Edwardian baroque 'bookends' – the City Baths (1903) at
the north end and Flinders Street Station (1901) at the other. In between is an eclectic collection of buildings and businesses, shops
and shoppers, buskers and public sculpture. Follow the procession of trams down Swanston Street and discover the heart of Mel-
bourne’s street culture and theatre.

You’ll find yourself returning to Swanston Street time and again. With everything from discount souvenir shops to cheap and cheer-
ful teenage fashion, most of the shopping action is between Flinders Street and Melbourne Central shopping centre on the corner of
La Trobe Street. Multi-level and spanning two blocks Melbourne Central is currently undergoing a major overhaul but still has
plenty of fashion, home wares and gift stores open for trade.

Bourke Street Mall is a short pedestrian and tram-only strip between Swanston and Elizabeth streets. Recognised as Melbourne’s
shopping heart, the mall is always buzzing with shoppers, buskers and city workers. Here you’ll find Melbourne’s two big depart-
ment stores, David Jones and Myer, along with an eclectic array of shops and chain stores that sell everything from music to jewel-
lery, shoes and novelties.

How to get around?
City Circle Tram (131 638)
See central Melbourne aboard the City Circle Tram - a free and convenient way to get around. Get on and off the distinctive maroon
trams at any of the marked tram stops on Flinders, Spencer, La Trobe and Spring streets and the city's new dining precinct - the
Docklands. Departs daily between 10am and 6pm every 12 minutes


Places to eat
Shark Fin House  (131 Lt Bourke St, Melbourne ; (03) 9663-1555): G6

Dim sum, char leong.


Flower Drum (17 Market La Melbourne, VIC 3000; (03) 9662-3655): G6-7 (Luxe Travel

Flower Drum's Singapore noodles ($28) are the best I've ever tasted. They're exemplary. I suppose that could be said of all Flower
Drum's dishes because of the fastidious attention to detail and the first-rate ingredients used.

The focus here is mostly on Cantonese cuisine and therefore seafood features. The effort put into sourcing premium fruits of the sea
is remarkable - mud crabs from Queensland, King Island crayfish, prawns or squid from South Australia, or scallops from Western

Apart from being our finest Chinese restaurant, Flower Drum is probably the No. 1 choice for seafood, too. The fresh squid with
spicy salt ($35) - super tender, ever so lightly fried meat that's given a blast of flavour from the spicy salt mix - is exquisitely simple.

If you order Peking duck, (priced according to size and season) your proficient waiter will let you know it's Flower Drum's signature
dish. And it's sensational. As with all their dishes, the offering is proudly shown as a whole, before the waiter divvies up the por-
tions. Ours deftly wraps the tender yet richly flavoured duck meat into its thin pancake along with uniform strips of spring onion,
cucumber, some plum sauce and a piece of the crispiest duck skin.

And to match that food is a great wine list, excellent Chinese tea, spacious tables dressed in crisp, white napery and neatly set with
good chopsticks, and ever-attentive, impeccably attired staff happy to accommodate every diner's whim. And the sense of occasion
offered at the Flower Drum makes it a splendid choice for any celebration.

One problem: if you want a big night out, and certainly for a Friday or Saturday, book now for a table that'll be available in about,
oh, three months. Then again, there's always lunch.

$$$$ (More than $50)

Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Entrees $6-$23; mains $34-$48; desserts $12; set menu $138 (six courses)

Lunch Mon-Sat noon-3pm. Dinner daily 6pm-10pm


Koko Black Chocolate  (Shop 4, Royal Arcarde, 335 Bourke Street; (03) 9639-8911): H6

Laurent Patisserie (306 Little Collins Street, Melbourne; +61 3 9654 1011): H6 (RECOMMENDED)

This is no ordinary cake and coffee shop. Laurent is a place for that special afternoon break. The essence of the interior is delight-


fully European with Parisian chic in the heart of Melbourne. Croissants, pithiviers, quiches and custard doughnouts go well with the
famous coffee.

Becco (11-25 Crossley Street, Melbourne; +61 3 9663 9000): G7 (Luxe Travel Guide)

Since Becco opened in 1997, diners have been flowing through its doors returning for its great mix of international cuisine, com-
fortable stylish interiors and wonderful service. Located in the heart of the city, Becco is a great spot for midday grazing or afterwork
dining. Try their refreshing Becco Macchiato – served in long tall glasses is a soothing swirl of vodka, campari, tonic with lots and
lots of fresh lime.

It has taken Becco only eight years to establish the sort of reputation many Melbourne restaurateurs spend a lifetime pursuing. From
the warm greeting, Becco's commitment is evident: you'll be swept to your table, with drinks, fine bread and menus arriving in
quick succession. Order Fiorina's superb stuffed olives early, so you can enjoy them while contemplating a menu of simple but
brilliantly executed modern Italian dishes, highlighting some of the best produce available.

Entrees might include a sweet slice of char-grilled calves' liver with fried onions on crunchy garlic crostini, or three perfect zucchini
flowers stuffed with gruyere and finished in a light batter. The fish of the day is served whole, its skin crisp from the grill, accompa-
nied by a simple mixed-lettuce salad - divine. The roast duck is perfect - with crisp dark skin peeling back easily to reveal tender
breast - and is finished with the sweetness of grapes and grappa. Desserts, too, are a joy: perhaps stewed peaches with macadamia-
nut crust or honey-scented sheep's yoghurt panna cotta. The wine list is carefully constructed and the service is impeccable.

$$$$ ($21 to $35)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Entrees $9-$16.50; mains $23.50-$34.50; desserts $13.50-$14.50

Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm. Bar: Mon-Wed noon-1am, Thurs-Sat noon-3am


radii (Park Hyatt 1 Parliament Square; (03) 9224-1211): G7-8

After a period on hold, Park Hyatt's radii is again a place worth visiting, courtesy of new chef Anthony Musarra. The Sydneysider's
hallmark? A youthful take on modern Mediterranean cooking, inspired, but not dominated by his Italian roots.

Musarra's food is clean and full of refined flavours, making it all the more regrettable that radii still feels like the hotel restaurant it
is. Staff wear name tags, prices for all those extras (wine, side dishes, water and coffee) are high, and visitors are polarised in their
opinion of radii's Art Deco Starship Enterprise design.

For all that, Musarra's food is worth the trip: things like garfish with salsa verde, garlic prawns and buckwheat polenta; or sublime,
silken ravioli of oxtail served with braised lettuce and peas, parmesan and fried shallots. Kingfish is roasted with Middle Eastern
touches like preserved lemon labna, and lamb rump gets a Sicilian twist with pinenuts and black olives.

Musarra's culinary tastes are very much in sync with those of Melbourne, and radii has great potential under his stewardship. More
emphasis on making the place a stand-alone destination could only exploit that potential.

$$$$ (More than $50)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Entrees $16-$19; mains $28-$36; desserts $12-$16

Lunch Tue-Sat noon-3pm. Dinner Tue-Sat 7pm-10.30pm


Izola Cafe-Restaurant-Bar (143-145 Bourke Street; (03) 9650 2222): G6

This is a Singaporean resturant, serving many of the Singaporean and Malaysian food like beef rendang, char kway teow and Hain-
anese chicken rice.

Opens till 3am Mondays to Thursdays and 6am on Fridays


Supper Inn Chinese Restaurant (15-17 Celestial Avenue, off Little Bourke Street; (03) 9663 4759): G6

For the last 24 years, this place has been serving good Cantonese food in an unpretentious environment, particularly the seafood
dishes fresh from the tank. The queue usually gets right down the stairs on weekends. This perennial late-night Chinese restaurant
was never likely to win any design awards, with its plain, well-worn interior and laminex tabletops.

However, the Cantonese food [including congee] is a favourite for those on the street after other eateries have closed. Beyond the
usual offerings, the menu becomes adventurous with items such as sea cucumber, suckling pig and mud crab. The atmosphere is
busy and chatty, so take along some friends for a pick-me-up at the end of a long party night.

$$$$ (up to $20)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Entree $4-$6.50; noodles & rice $11.50-$35; mains $11-$55; dessert $4-$5.50. Corkage $2 per person

Daily 5.30pm-2.30am

Places to shop
Gaslight (music; 85 Bourke St City Centre,3000; 03 9650 9009)
Gaslight have been selling records since vinyl was king and they're very good at it. These days they've diversified into CDs, DVDs,
imports and tickets for gigs and events. Musically they are eclectic but lean toward soundtracks, rock, jazz and electronic. The laid-
back staff know their stuff and don't feel the need to give you attitude.

Hours: Mon-Thurs 9:00 AM-8:00 PM, Fri 9:00 AM-9:30 PM, Sat 10:00 AM-7:00 PM, Sun 11:00 AM-6:00 PM

Haigh's (food/drink; 282-286 Collins St City Centre Shop 7-8; 03 9654 7673)
Haigh's chocolates are unmatchably good and their Block Arcade store with its gracious Victorian windows is the perfect place to
sample them. They are made the old-fashioned way, from the raw bean, and blended with an artist's hand. Try the sparkling shiraz
truffles, the violet creams and the scorched almonds.

Hours: Mon-Thurs 8:30 AM-6:00 PM, Fri 8:30 AM-7:30 PM, Sat 9:00 AM-5:00 PM, Sun 11:00 AM-4:00 PM



RAP Products (345 Little Collins Street; (03) 9670 8852)
Located in the heart of the CBD, Rap is a popular place among yuppies who duck in for housewarming and birthday gifts, or a
quick dose of retail therapy. Aside from homeware items like drinking glasses, tabletop clocks, vases, serving trays, bonsai and pic-
ture frames, the shop also carries about 150 styles of corporate-smart handbags (prices around $100), costume jewellery from
France and Italy, whimsical cufflinks in airplane or football field designs, and other surefire conversation starters.

Howey Place: H6
If you are in the market for that something special to wear, head for Howey Place. This tiny inner city laneway has established itself
as a designer destination, with the most sought-after fashion labels taking up residence in the narrow pedestrian strip. Check out the
colour of the Alannah Hill boutique, Bettina Liano style, and smaller designers such as Jacqui Fernandes.

Howey Place can be located off Little Collins Street between Swanston and Elizabeth streets behind the Collins 234 shopping com-
plex from Collins Street.

Menswear in Little Collins Street: H6
Little Collins Street is the Italian men’s catwalk transported to Melbourne. There’s a large concentration of the latest designer fashion
labels including Versace and Armani, plus local designers, including Roy. The stores are tiny, but the experience is huge.

The menswear strip of Little Collins Street is located between Swanston and Russell streets, Melbourne.

Genki (37 Swanston Street Shop 5 Cathedral Arcade) - Luxe Travel Guide
Gorgeous streetwear from popular US and Euro labels like Milk Fed, YMC, Daryl K and they even have their own line of fabulous
printed t-shirts. Their colourful J-pop inspired setting is cute! Check out their cutesy plastic wallets and hair baubles too.

Christine (181 Flinders Lane; 9654 2011) - Luxe Travel Guide
For ladies.

Calibre (182 Little Collins St; 9654 8826) - Luxe Travel Guide
For men

Aquila (171 Little Collins St; 9650 7223) - Luxe Travel Guide
For men: Funky trainers and formal shoes.

Declic (186 Little Collins St; 9650 2202) - Luxe Travel Guide
For zappy shirts and juicy ties.

Chiodi (114 Russell St; 9663 0044) - Luxe Travel Guide
Hand-finished shirt and casual funk salon.

Suga (Royal Arcade Shop 20; 9663 5654)
Rock candy! See it being made!


                                                                             Wednesday, 14 September 2005
9:00 am
Royal Botanic Gardens, Bridge Road, Toorak Road, Chapel Street

Places to eat
Caffe e Cucina (581 Chapel Street, South Yarra; +61 3 9827 4139): M11 (Luxe Travel Guide)

Experience the place where Melbourne’s coffee revival is said to have begun. Whilst you sip your divine coffee creation you can
witness the fashion conscious strolling down Chapel Street. If you’re lucky, you may score the best seat in the house – a balcony
with a fabulous view. For years rated as Australia’s number one café, Caffe e Cucina’s breakfast is an often talked-about matter.

At the top end of Chapel Street lurks a legend by the name of Caffe e Cucina. OK, so everyone does Italian with a serious splash of
cool these days, but when this establishment opened over a decade ago it was a ground-breaker, offering authentic Italian street
cafe-cool, along with some excellent trattoria-style food.

Things have changed little, even after a change of owners. It's still packed, and people still wear their sunglasses inside. The waiting
staff still sprinkle "ciao bella" around as if the words were cracked pepper.

One item that probably wasn't on the menu all those years ago is gelato parmegano ($13.30). Despite its name and appearance,
this starter is not a gelato, nor is it an ice-cream, but it is yummy enough for us to forgive the misnomer. Served with crostini and an
intense basil pesto, this buttery, chilled scoop of parmesan, blended with cream and egg whites, is more akin to cream cheese than
ice-cream - but who cares when it tastes so good.

Try the mussels steamed and served in a compact tomato sauce ($17.80), peppered with cannellini beans and slices of sausage,
which, if any smokier, would have to be sold in packets of 30 with a government health warning plastered on the front.

A 2000 chianti ($56) from the Antinori family, renowned Tuscan winemakers, completed the picture. This wine is not cheap, but the
combination of earthiness, raisins, cinnamon and great smoothness worked wonders with this dish - so if you're looking to spoil
yourself, try a bottle.

$$$$ ($36 to $50)


Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Mon-Sat 7am-11pm; Sun 8am-11pm

Observatory Café (Royal Botanic Gardens, Birdwood Avenue, South Yarra; +61 3 9650 5600)
Discover one of the great gardens of the world, only minutes from the city’s heart, and dine in the grounds of the historic Observa-
tory Café with fresh, seasonal food. Stroll through breathtaking landscapes displaying plants from across the globe or gaze at the
stars. The café serves breakfast, morning and afternoon tea and lunch.

At the Observatory Cafe in the Royal Botanic Gardens, there's enough room for at least a dozen pram-packed Tardises. Children of
all ages roam across its massive forecourt then dash back to their tables for a quick bite between games of chasey.

Since the opening late last year of the children's garden next to the cafe, there are more youngsters than ever before mixing it with
the chardonnay and latte sippers. Which makes the not-very-parent-friendly service here even harder to understand. Long queues at
lunchtime and no table service - no matter how many meals and drinks you might have to carry - make it nigh-on impossible for
just mum and the kids to pop in, as you need at least two adults to negotiate the logistics - one to queue and one to watch the

Still, once you have your food, this cafe becomes delightful, with its versatile blend of indoor and al fresco dining options.

The children are sorted very easily: the younger ones will love the kids' pack ($6) with Vegemite and cheese sangers, a Prima drink
and a Freddo Frog. There's usually a kid-friendly pasta or two on the menu as well.

The chicken, snow pea and mango salad ($14) is a magnet for the grown-ups - refreshing, tangy and light, yet packed with enough
chicken to kill the rumbles after a stroll through the gardens. The chicken and spring onion sandwiches ($6.50), with homemade
mayo, are simply irresistible. But it's not all poultry here. There are wraps and sandwiches galore, including falafels with tabbouleh
and garlicky yoghurt sauce ($7.50). The specials board is always worth a squiz; look out for hefty slices of a wondrously eggy egg
and bacon pie, or a kid's-sized creamy carbonara.

From the bar, about a dozen wines by the glass are on offer, including the fruity yet mellow Yering Station 2002 chardonnay ($6.50),
which should ensure that you're able to enjoy a long, lazy afternoon of sitting around while you watch the children running them-
selves ragged.

Breakfast starts at 7am and includes all the usual suspects starting with various muffins ($3) right through to scrambled eggs with
smoked salmon ($12) - all reasonably priced.

$$$$ (up to $20)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Breakfast $3-$12; lunch $7-$14

Daily 7am-5pm


Richmond Hill Café and Larder (48-50 Bridge Road, Richmond; +61 3 9421 2808): H10
(RECOMMENDED/Luxe Travel Guide)

A perfect place for lunch due to the input from famous Melbourne restauranteur Stephanie Alexander. Apart from the award win-
ning coffee and carefully crafted dishes, you can find here Australia’s No.1 cheese expert, Will Studd. Cheese shopping, here I


Pearl (631-633 Church St Richmond, VIC 3121; (03) 9421-4599): G11 (Luxe Travel Guide)

Pearl's designer grazing is right at home with its Richmond neighbours - Italian interiors shops, fashion houses and galleries - offer-
ing beautifully sculpted food with flavours to match.

Try the "little dishes" on the bar menu. When taste is sublime, who needs volume? Three lettuce cups of rare beef salad ($8) form a
triptych framed by a square plate. Chilli, cherry tomatoes, Vietnamese mint and shards of onion weave through thinly sliced beef
dressed in lime juice and palm sugar, leaving your lips tingling with refreshing layers of Thai flavours. Or try the baby sausages ($8),
fingers of succulent lamb flavoured with fennel and served with spicy caramelised-tomato jam.

$$$$ ($36 to $50)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Bar snacks around $8; entrees $17-$35; mains $28-$34; desserts $14-$18

Mon-Fri noon-3pm, Sat-Sun 9am-3pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm. Bar Mon-Fri 11am-11pm


Misuzu's (3-7 Victoria Ave Albert Park; 03 9699 9022): N5 (Luxe Travel Guide)

Misuzu's is small and popular, so expect crowds. The cafe downstairs is the main hub of the action, but there's also a more formal
and expensive restaurant upstairs. Misuzu's does great traditional food - their miso soup is a wonderful example of a simple dish
done shiningly well - but they also have a slight fusion bent.

Don't just turn up at Misuzu's at dinner time and expect to get a seat, especially on weekends. I'm speaking from experience.

The sushi and sashimi were stout and substantial, as opposed to the limp slivers of fish you receive in some other places.

A stacked platter of spiky vegetable tempura - razors of capsicum, green bean, spring onion and more, all wrapped in light, crispy
batter, with an accompanying bowl of sweet dashi dipping sauce - makes for a bargain plate to share. For mains, there's teriyaki
beef on brown rice, which, like the raw fish numbers, we've all tried. It's Japanese comfort food, it's sweet, it's meaty and it'll defi-
nitely perk you up on cold evenings. But if we're talking about interesting dishes then let's head straight for the seavegie soba noo-

Meaty this dish is not; rather, it's a combination of four different seaweeds: wakame, nori, kaiso and konbu, in a tuna and konbu
(giant kelp) stock. If you were vegetarian and closed your eyes you might be convinced, as you ate this, that you were eating a fish
soup. Each of the seaweeds has a slightly different texture, crunch and flavour, with the overall combination proving to be much
more satisfying than I expected it to be.

$$$$ ($21 to $35)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Sushi $10.80/$19.30; sashimi $11/$19.80; tempura $8.80; teriyaki beef $13.80; soba noodles $13.80

Lunch daily noon-3pm. Dinner daily 5.30pm-10pm


Chapelli’s (571 Chapel Street South Yarra; (03) 9826 9516)

Ever had a yearning for a bowl of pasta in the middle of an upmarket fashion district in the middle of the night? No problem. This
spaghetti bar in the centre of South Yarra's fashion strip never closes. Late-night clubbers can sample a spaghetti primavera or a
gnocchi ragu before commencing the search for an early morning taxi - although the zuppa del giorno might be more settling to the
stomach after a big night out. The pasta is most popular but the best thing is their breakfast menu which starts at about 7am and
ends at 10am.

$$$$ ($21 to $35)

Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Pasta & risotto $13.90-$16.90; seafood & steaks $12.90-$23.50

24 hours, daily


Other places to try
The Botanical (169 Domain Rd South Yarra, VIC 3141; (03) 9820-7888)

Botanical is a high-maintenance South Yarra blonde: stylish, popular and noisy. So imagine the surprise of having a night out with
her and discovering plenty of substance there, too.

The chic, split-level dining room lies between food and drink - one wall wine, the other an open kitchen - and between the two is
an army of knowledgeable staff to assist in the difficult task of decision making.

Chef Paul Wilson's food is all about big flavours, big servings and finely worked, multi-layered combinations. Start, perhaps, with
sticky pork belly - crisp skinned, sweet and served with silky tofu and a seared scallop. For mains, consider the rare gastronomic
wonder that is a Patagonian toothfish, its edges caramelised with miso, alongside tempura oysters and a delicious pile of crab on
pickled seaweed; or the classic rib-eye, one of the best steaks in town.

Desserts, such as a gold-sprinkled chocolate platter are luxurious, and the innovative approach to wine is a revelation. So is she
perfect? No: tables are too close, the noise makes converstation difficult and service can be brusque if your celebrity rating is low.
But she's still a bombshell.

$$$$ ($36 to $50)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Breakfasts $5-$16; entrees $15-$21.50; mains $26.50-$38; desserts $9.50-$17.50

Daily 8am-late

Places to shop
Nine West Outlet (109 Bridge Road Richmond)
Sexy strappies, sensible courts and boots at about half the usual price.

Esprit (132a Bridge Road Richmond)
Cheap! $20 tiny cardis and $50 denim jackets.

Portman’s Warehouse (143 Bridge Road Richmond)
From casual to corporate, and dresses to pants.


Mimco Aisle (162 Bridge Road Richmond; (03) 9529 2000) - Luxe Travel Guide
Gorgeous, fun accessories from bags to hairclips.

Atelier (174 Bridge Road Richmond)
Cute streetwear like the tiny hooded sweatshirts for $12.

Country Road Wearhouse (261 Bridge Road Richmond)
Clean and classy lines for your wardrobe and home at big discounts

Supply & Demand (567 Bridge Road Richmond 3121; (03) 942 6912)
House stuff

Chapel Street Bazaar (217 Chapel Street Prahran 3181; (03) 9529 1727)
Great collection of vintage and secondhand stuff.

Alannah Hill (4/529 Chapel Street South Yarra, Melbourne; +61 3 9826 2755)
Pretty pink cured flowers are crushed onto pale blue, knee-length skirts. Shirts trimmed with endearing frills, the sales assistants
dressed from head to toe like flowers and colourful beds placed on either side of the counter to lie and revere. Any shopper can
transform into their ideal dream character.

Dinosaur Designs (jewellery ; homewares; 562 Chapel St South Yarra,3141; 03 9827 2600) - Luxe T G
Dinosaur Designs combines the translucency of resin with bright colours and strong, almost primitive designs to create a unique
range of homewares and contemporary jewellery - chunky bangles and necklaces that look great on tanned skin (well, the shop hail
from Sydney). All pieces are dishwasher safe.

Hours: Mon-Sat 10:00 AM-6:00 PM, Sun 12:00 PM-5:00 PM

Saba for Men/Saba for Women (538/548 Chapel Street) - Luxe Travel Guide
The pair of his and hers boutiques can be found doors away from each other along Chapel Street. Quality fabrics and simple cuts
set the sartorial tone for this collection of high end basics. Smart executive wear, evening attire and other chic pieces entice the
discerning clotheshorse. In the women’s boutique, we saw tank tops for $58 and a pin striped jacket tagged at $495.

Review (556 Chapel Street)
It doesn’t have a particularly attention grabbing shopfront, so you could easily amble pass Review, clueless about the treasures
within. Offering design conscious ladies’ wear at compact Asian sizes and mid-range prices, you won’t feel too guilty about maxing
out your credit card here. Our purchase of a voile tube top with babydoll flare ($59.95) counts as ond of our star buys.

Kwamee by Francis (561 Chapel Street South Yarra 3141; (03) 9826 9080)
Clothes for men. Cuts are slim and sharp with offbeat elements: army shirt with red stitch details, patterned piping, extra-long cuffs,
etc. Expect to spend at least $100 for any one item.

Fool (118 Greville Street South Yarra)
Clothes in every colour except the colour of night

Rogues (1/127 Greville Street South Yarra)
Tiny tops for clubbing

Paris Kyne (Shop 6 501 Toorak Rd; 9826 3300) - Luxe Travel Guide


                                                                                       Thursday, 15 September 2005
9:00 am
Great Ocean Road tour

The power and majesty of nature reign supreme in this awe inspiring sea and landscape. The huge stone monoliths of the Twelve
Apostles, Island Arch, Razorback and the rugged coastline with its spectacular views never fails to impress.

Fare Includes: A visit to Bells Beach, National Park Fees, Aussie style Bush Billy tea, on-coach video.
This tour departs from the Melbourne Day Tour Centre: 180 Swanston Street Walk, Mid Town Plaza at Bourke St Corner or your
hotel. Dinner is not included.

Note: Tour is subject to cancellation if minimum passenger requirement (2 passengers) is not met.

Apr 1, 2005 - Mar 31, 2006 (8:00 AM; SMTWTFS)

ADULT (USD $95.00)

Gray Line Melbourne · 180 SWANSTON ST., MELBOURNE AUS · PHONE -61

Places to eat
Waves (29 Lord Street Port Campbell; (03) 5598 6111) *12 Apostles*
Stop at Waves for lunch that has great lunchtime chow. The menu is not printed on paper, instead the dishes are handwritten on a

Kosta’s (28 Mountjoy Pde Lorne; (03) 5289 1883) *Great Ocean Road*

A drive through Lorne without a stop at Kostas is unforgivable. This place is an institution among the backpacking fraternity. The
coffee is freshly brewed and the brownies at $2 a piece are simply divine.


                                                                                           Friday, 16 September 2005
9:00 am
Queen Victoria Market, Brunswick Street, Victoria Street

Queen Victoria Market (+61 3 9320 5822; Tue & Thu 6:00 AM-2:00 PM, Fri 6:00 AM-6:00 PM, Sat 6:00
AM-3:00 PM, Sun 9:00 AM-4:00 PM)
Queen Victoria Market is the largest open-air market in the southern hemisphere (spread over seven hectares), and an historic
landmark. Almost one thousand traders sell everything from exotic Australian fruit and vegetables and local and imported gourmet
foods, meat, fish and poultry to hardware, manchester, clothing and authentic Australian artefacts and souvenirs. During December
and January, visit the popular Night Market every Wednesday evening until 10pm.

Places to eat
Chocolate Buddha (Federation Square, 2 Swanston St Melbourne, VIC 3000; (03) 9654-
5688): G5

Like Fed Square itself, diners are divided on the hype that surrounds Chocolate Buddha.

But whatever your opinion on techno ordering systems and whistlestop waitrons, the Buddha continues to pull crowds with ramen
and donburi dishes featuring tempura, wakame or marinated beef. A Korean bibimbap features six mounds of delicately pickled
vegies clustered around rice and topped with a sizzling fried egg.

Artful side dishes include miso-topped eggplant - darker, richer and heavier than anything you'd find on the streets of Tokyo. Some-
thing extra to close the deal? Organic ingredients across the board.

$$$$ ($21 to $35)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Side dishes $3.90-$12.50; noodles & rice $13.50-$17.50; desserts $8.50

Daily, noon-late


Thy Thy 1 Vietnamese Restaurant (142 Victoria St, Richmond, VIC 3121; (03) 9429-1104): F10/11

A Victoria Street institution that has some rivals these days - but is still the best-known and cheapest Vietnamese around. Atop some
grimy stairs in the heart of Victoria Street, this longstanding budget fave has truly earned the right to be called an institution. At the
pointy end of budget spending, it's all dollar-shop decor, shared formica tables and frenetic staff juggling plates while giving tables
a cursory wipe. The menu is no-frills Vietnamese - from spring rolls and pho to meat prepared in five sauces - which hurtles out of
the kitchen at an incredible rate. In truth, better food can be found in places just minutes away, but Thy Thy has been doing this
longer than most, has a loyal following and is still the cheapest around. Must try: fine Rice Vermicelli with Sugar Cane Prawns.

$$$$ (up to $20)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Entrees $4.50-$5.50 mains $7.70-$8.80

Daily 8am-10pm


Brunetti's (194-204 Faraday St, Carlton,3053; 03 9347 2801; Sun-Fri 8:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sat 8:00
AM-12:00 AM): E6

Sweetness & Light, Italian cafe. A multiplex version of a traditional Melbourne-Italian coffee shop, Brunetti's trattoria and
pasticceria-gelateria is still an exceptionally popular pit stop for coffee, or a pastry. You can almost stand a spoon in their hot choco-
lates, and the are worrisomely addictive. Must try: Bacio, tiramisu, mousse cake, mocha cake.


Breizoz Fitzroy Creperie (Ste 2/ 49 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, VIC 3065; (03) 9415-7588): F7/8

Get a taste of the Gallic good life at this French-style creperie on Brunswick Street. In new premises, this cute Breton-style cafe
serves savoury buckwheat galettes and sweet wheat flour crepes, all cooked on cast-iron hotplates. You might start with an egg, ham
and cheese galette, then do yourself in with a flaming sweet crepe (the chestnut puree and rum is delicious). It's cheap, filling fare
but the savoury offerings could be a bit more interesting. Quaffable French wines are available by the glass.

$$$$ (up to $20)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Galettes $4.50-$14; sweet crepes $4.50-$10

Lunch Fri-Sun. Dinner Tue-Sat


Charmaine's (370 Brunswick St Fitzroy; 03 9417 5379; 12:00 PM-11:00 PM): D7/8

Charmaine's is a Melbourne byword for ice-cream quality. The old-fashioned 'faceful of cream' style is not to everyone's taste, but
the rich textures and deep flavours are undeniably fine. Flavours vary from the traditional - lovingly rendered versions of strawberry,
chocolate and honey - to wilder creations like red bean, plum pudding and lemon cheesecake.

In Melbourne's gourmet ice-cream game, Charmaine's is a serious player. With 20 flavours available at any one time, ranging from
a fruit-rich raspberry sorbet to the syrupy-sweet honeycomb, Charmaine's has familiar favourites along with more adventurous fla-

There's a seasonality at work here, too. The plum pudding appears occasionally, as do the mandarin, tangerine and lychee.

But it's the chocolate and chilli that really does the business. In one of Melbourne's richest chocolate ice-creams, almond slivers
and a gentle spiciness are combined in a clever balance of sweetness and complexity.

Over a generous scoop of vanilla bean-speckled French vanilla, it's almost too much for one person to handle. Almost.


Ladro (224a Gertrude St Fitzroy, VIC 3065; (03) 9415-7575): F8 (Luxe Travel Guide)

Ladro's phone is a hotline to Melbourne's hot seats. There are, after all, only 45 of them, and the place is only open five nights a
week. Show up at 6pm and you'll find people queuing for a spot at the marble-topped tables.

Why all the fuss about a simple pizza and roast joint? It helps that it's in an up-and-coming locale, that the lighting is flattering and
the room is crammed with beautiful people. But none of that would mattter if the food wasn't good - no chance, with Rita Macali
(ex The Kent, Luxe, Caterina's) wooing more of Melbourne away from fine dining with Ladro's straightforward approach.

Ladro's pizzas, free-form affairs about the size of a dinner plate, slide out of the wood oven topped with things like green olive
paste, mozzarella, capers and rocket; or tomato slices, basil, cheese and crunchy radicchio. Other combos are scrawled on the side
of the oven, along with the evening's arrosto - maybe pork belly rolled around a herb-strewn bread stuffing, with olive oil mash and
green beans - and wine specials to supplement a pert, Italo-centric list.

All dandy. But first, catch your booking.

$$$$ ($21 to $35)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Entrees $6-$12; pizzas $13-$20; mains $16-$25; desserts $8

Dinner Wed-Sun 6pm-11pm


Tiamo and Tiamo 2 (303 and 305 Lygon Street, Carlton; +61 3 9347 5759): E6

For years, Tiamo has remained a favourite coffee place for Melburnians. It has a traditional setting and value for money food ac-
companied by coffee, which many describe as legendary. After a meal you can take in the atmosphere of Lygon Street, known as
Melbourne’s Little Italy. Alternatively head down to the centre of the city only a few minutes away for nightlife entertainment.

Tiamo 1 began life in the 1960s as The Black Pearl, a cafe famous for the slyness of its grog and very popular, as it is now, with

In those days Carlton, and Lygon Street in particular, had an edgy shabbiness that made it very much the bohemian haunt that per-
haps Smith Street and to a certain extent Brunswick Street are today.

These days Carlton is - well, it's something other than it was, anyway - but on the walls of Tiamo, shaded by dark wood panelling,
hang faded posters promoting plays, poetry readings and rock gigs from that more romantic time; browned, laminated and seared
onto the plaster by years of cigarette smoke and the aroma of countless garlic cloves smashed and fried in wonderful olive oil.

With what, for this scribe anyway, is the best carbonara ($12) in town, made simply from eggs and bacon, and superb offal in the
form of chicken livers fried with onions ($16.90) - so pungent, and with a texture so soft and giving, a meal at Tiamo is one of the
better reasons to visit Carlton these days.

Is there anything more decadent on a stolen work-free afternoon, than popping into Readings, buying a new book and devouring
the first few pages as you slip into Tiamo, sip a coffee and enjoy the guilty indulgence that is their tiramisu, rich with marscapone
and real coffee ($6.50).

Mon-Sat 7:30am-11pm; Sun 8:30am-10pm


Warung Agus (305 Victoria St West Melbourne; 03 9329 1737; Tue-Sun 6:00 PM-10:00 PM): F4

If a hard day's bargaining at the Vic Market has taken it out of you head to Victoria Street, where a small jungle of tropical pot plants
conceals this popular restaurant. Along with a grass-green carpet and Indonesian tropicalismo decor, there's a great range of Bali-
nese food. Most dishes are delectable but the suckling pig is tastebud nirvana.

Places to shop
Frauhaus (235 Brunswick St; 9415 6706)
Lots of Japanese influence here. Mostly monotone fashion, either in black or earthy tones. Bags are more retro looking and very

Fetish Clothing and Accessories (316-318 Brunswick St Fitzroy)
Bohemian floral slip dresses.

Kinky Gerlinki (Shop 2 360 Brunswick St. Fitzroy) - Luxe Travel Guide
Colourful and girly, with cute accessories.

Readings Books & Music (books ; music; 309 Lygon St Carlton; 03 9347 6633)
Readings will trap you. You'll breeze in for something quick and end up spending hours browsing the stacks, mooching amongst the
magazines, listening to CDs and combing the bargain table for that gasp-out-loud buy. The staff are both knowledgable and mellow,
and the shop is open late - great for that almost-forgotten birthday.

Hours: 9:00 AM-11:00 AM

Scally and Trombone (Head Candies; accessories ; clothing; 331 Brunswick St Fitzroy; 03 9419 6038)
Scally and Trombone is a sweet shop for millinery gluttons, a fabulous trove of head candy ranging from eccentric takes on raceday
bon-bons to little knitted numbers whose mothers were tea cosies. Look out for the one-off, wide-brimmed sunhats, made from
vintage fabrics, that wrap up into a tiny bundle. There is also a plethora of unusual accessories.

Hours: Mon-Wed 10:00 AM-6:00 PM, Thu & Fri 10:00 AM-8:00 PM, Sat 9:30 AM-6:00 PM, Sun 10:30 AM-6:00 PM

Fat52 (52 Johnston Street)
Despite the name, you won’t find overseeized outfits here. Instead, a collection of mixed labels awaits, the bulk of it by Australian
designers. From streetwear to casual evening garb, cameras to kids’ tees, Fat’s eclectic pieces will please the style-seeker. Prices
range from $5 (accessories) to $600(jackets/jewellery).


Klein's Perfumery (beauty; 313 Brunswick St Fitzroy; 03 9416 1221)
Klein's, with its shelves of slender bottles filled with scents like daffodil and fig, is a mecca for local scent hounds. Look for the
marvellous L'occitane range from France, and the equally delicious Aesop range, which is made locally (don't forget to try their
Resurrection hand balm). The kindly staff will help you choose between all this bounty.

Hours: 10:00 AM-7:00 PM

Kleen Design Store (296 Brunswick Street Firzroy 3054; (03) 9415 9490)

Natural light floods into Kleen through its huge windows, deliciously highlighting a great collection of curvy hand-made glass vases
and Mathmos lava lamps the colour of boiled sweets. While this shop’s focus is on home accessories in clean lines and strong col-
ours, the effect is pretty and feminine rather than sleek and minimal.

Melissa Jackson (195 Gertrude Street; 9662 3272) - Luxe Travel Guide
Bespoke hats, knitwear and a range of men’s shirts

Crumpler (85 Smith St; 9417 5776) - Luxe Travel Guide
Hip and snazzy bags for just about anything including folder, cycle, computer and photo.


                                                                                         Saturday, 17 September 2005
9:00 am
Free and easy or optional Mornington Peninsula Tour or Chocoholic Tour

Set between Port Phillip Bay and Western Port Bay, the Mornington Peninsula is Melbourne's holiday playground. With stunning
views from Arthurs Seat summit over the bay with its long white sand beaches, the splendour of vineyards, farms, holiday homes
and a quiet country lifestyle, the Mornington Peninsula is a true delight.

Fare Includes: Entrance to Nedlands Lavender Farm, lavender style morning tea of biscuits with tea or coffee, strawberry picking,
entrance to Ashcombe Maze & Water Gardens and a two course lunch. During winter a Strawberry experience will be offered in
lieu of strawberry picking.

This tour departs from the Melbourne Day Tour Centre: 180 Swanston Street Walk, Mid Town Plaza at Bourke St Corner or your

Mar 26, 2005 - Oct 29, 2005 (8:15 AM; M-W-FS)

ADULT (USD $103.00)

Gray Line Melbourne · 180 SWANSTON ST., MELBOURNE AUS · PHONE -61

Chocoholic Tours (; (03) 9815 1228/0412 158 017; Contact:
Suzie Wharton)

Chocoholic Brunch Walk
Explore Melbourne and discover some exciting cafes. Relax with your favourite drink-hot chocolate, tea or coffee-at Laurent Bou-
langerie & Patisserie. This will be complimented by petits fours...chocolate of course! We then wander through the elegant Block
Arcade, home to Haigh's Chocolates, where we have tastings and a chocolate chat. Take a walk-up Collins Street with its fashion-
able boutiques and historical buildings. Then we enter another hidden arcade, to munch on chocolate from some of Melbourne's
top chocolatiers. We then wander up Collins Street and visit one of Melbourne's heritage buildings, the Manchester Unity Building,
which is home to Caffe Mediterraneum. This lovely venue is beautifully cosy, full of charm and is tucked away in the buildings
decorative arcade. A delectable chocolate dessert awaits and yet another hot chocolate if your heart so desires. Relax now at your
leisure, as there is no rush to leave.

Time:Saturday 10am to 12 noon or arranged times for groups,weekdays only

Meet: Laurent Patisserie, 306 Little Collins Street Melbourne

Cost: $28.00 all-inclusive. Bookings essential.

Chocolate Indulgence Walk
Explore and talk about Melbourne through a chocoholic haze. Indulge chocolate fantasies with tastings from some of Melbourne's
finest chocolate specialists. At the same time discover some hidden arcades and laneways. These are full of history and lively activ-
ity of local Melburnians enjoying themselves.
Build up your glucose levels with delicious tastings from Cadbury. The wickedly yummy chocolate icecream from New Zealand
Natural Icecream is followed by chocolate tastings of Callebaut, one of Belgium's finest. Surprises await!
The oldest arcade, The Royal Arcade is home the new chocolate salon, Koko Black where the chocolatier can be seen making beau-
tiful chocolate creations. A discussion and truffle tasting is all part of the tour. The Chocolate Box nestles in the Australia on Collins
Arcade and their chocolates will delight your taste buds with delicious results. A short stroll takes you near Federation Square which
is the gateway of the Arts Precinct and St Kilda Road, one of the world's great boulevards and close to the walk's last stop.

The Sheraton Towers Hotel Southgate is where the tour finishes with a perfect afternoon of indulgence - chocolate dessert and
drinks in the elegant Tisane Lounge plus a chat to one of the talented chefs. Here you are surrounded by the Arts Precinct of Mel-
bourne and delights of Southgate. Your senses will be delighted, visually and taste wise!

Time:12.15-2.15 pm Saturdays or arranged times for groups weekdays only.

Meet:New Zealand Icecream, Ground Floor, Queen Victoria Building (QVB)- Entrance near corner of Swanton & Lonsdale Streets
on Swanston St.

Cost: $28.00 all-inclusive. Bookings essential.


Chocolate and Other Desserts Walk
Melbourne is seen from a 'sweet tooth' viewpoint. Visit some tempting chocolate and dessert makers who are hidden away in the
lanes, arcades and side streets.
Tastings, talks and tales of Melbourne starts at Charmaine's Ice Cream at Southgate with a choice of icecreams - chocolate, lemon
cheesecake, Baci and more. Suga at Southgate demonstrates the art of old-world tradion of lolly making and reveals some secrets of
the art whilst you taste some of their creations.

Stroll across the Yarra River to Haigh's Chocolate in the Block Arcade where your taste buds will be seduce by the delectable fla-
vour of their chocolates and your eyes by the designs. Enter the snug and old fashioned world of The Pancake Parlour where rich
pancakes will hit the taste buds in just the right spot.
At the Paris End of Collins Street the tour finishes with a behind the scenes tour of the pastry kitchen of the Grand Hyatt Hotel
where the chefs chat about dessert making and you get to feel the sweet atmosphere of the place. Then afternoon tea at Hanzel-
mann's, The Grand Hyatt with desserts and drinks will complete this sweet experience. Now just relax and dream of sweet indul-
gences or the next chocolate treat!

Time:2.15pm-4.30pm Saturdays or arranged times for groups - weekdays only.

Meet: Charmaines Ice Cream, Southgate Food Court

Cost: $28.00 all-inclusive. Bookings essential.


                                                                                           Sunday, 18 September 2005
9:00 am
Full day at St. Kilda

St Kilda
St Kilda, Melbourne’s favourite playground, was once a seaside resort for genteel Melburnians to take the sea air. In the 1960s and
1970s it fell out of favour and took on a seedier edge, but today its racy atmosphere has largely been replaced by a race to the next
alfresco table.

On weekends, Melburnians flock here to walk, cycle and skate along the palm-lined foreshore or to sit in an outdoor café with a
coffee – or something a little stronger – and take in the panoramic views of Port Phillip Bay.

Away from the foreshore, you’ll find much of St Kilda’s activity concentrated in Fitzroy and Acland streets. Fitzroy Street is re-
nowned for its cool cafes, restaurants and bars, with tables spilling onto the footpath, and is one of Melbourne’s most attractive
eating and drinking streets. Nearby Acland Street is a bustling, vibrant street with an eclectic mix of restaurants, wine bars and con-
tinental cake shops. During the day the streets are lined with people drinking lattes; at night they’re buzzing with clubbers and night

The second-hand stores in Acland Street are favourites for bric-a-brac shoppers and retro fashion dressers. Go treasure hunting for a
stylish gift, and don’t miss the selection of independent music and book stores, as well as second-hand furniture.

How to get there
Tram: Any tram with St Kilda beach displayed or number 96 from Bourke Street, 15 and 16 on Swanston Street or number 12 on
Collins Street
Travelling time: 25 minutes

Places to eat
Cafe Brewhaha (39 Blessington Street St Kilda (03) 9534-3788): S10

Gorgeous little place for breakfast, with yummy items like their breakfast parfait - muesli, yogurt and poached fruit are layered in a
tall parfait glass, making something healthy look like dessert.


Spudbar (43 Blessington Street St Kilda): S9/10
Choose whatever topping in the counter to go with your oversized baked potato

Gourmet Burger Company (3/12 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, VIC 3182; (03) 8598 9200): R9

The serious science - and great taste - of the modern burger. St Kilda's Gourmet Burger Company takes hamburgers seriously. Co-
owner Dean Heath says finding the right spice mix for patties is equal parts art and science. The bun needs to be the right size and
firm enough to hold together during eating, but soft and fresh enough to complement what it holds.

Then there's the relish, tweaked and tuned to add a gentle zing. Aioli goes through the same process and recipes are guarded jeal-
ously. Thankfully, they've done all the hard work and come up with 18 burger options with the results. Starting with vegetarian
choices, the portabello mushroom patty ($7.90) is thick and earthy, and arrives with marinated capsicum draped over it, under a
bed of fresh lettuce, slices of tomato, with a generous swipe of basil pesto livening the whole thing up.

Meat lovers and burger purists alike should head straight for the vintage burger ($9.90). With smoked bacon, aged tasty cheese,
wholegrain mustard, salad, relish and aioli, it's a classic burger with a vague hint of smokiness from the char grilling.

The five chicken options are generally lighter than their red meat counterparts, many using ingredients such as cranberry sauce,
sweet chilli sauce and fresh coriander in considered ways. All burgers are served in your choice of buns, baked specifically for the
store to a sugarless sourdough recipe.

Consider the milkshakes (all $3.80) while you're here, too. Big, richly flavoured and made with lashings of ice-cream, they arrive in
tall silver cups that keep them icy throughout the meal

$$$$ (up to $20)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Burgers around $9: milkshakes $3.80

Mon-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sun 11am-late


Cafe 97 (97 Fitzroy Street St Kilda; 9525 5922): Q9
For lovers of fresh milkshakes, try the alcoholic one at Cafe 97. We promise you will leave the place sober and with fond memories.
Priced at $11.

Baker Chirico (Shop 3/4 148 Fitzroy Street St Kilda; (03) 9534-3777): Q9

Droolworthy cake and bread to go. The bread, with its lightly chewy crusts is simply superb. You'll see it at some of Melbourne's
best restaurants, including Grossi Florentino, radii and the Melbourne Wine Room.

The Baker D. Chirico store opened in St Kilda in 2001.

"We were quite lucky to create a beautiful style of bread, and a beautiful levain", says the owner, baker Danny Chirico. The levain is
the sourdough starter he made when he first came to St Kilda. It is used for all but one of the dozen different Chirico breads.

In what is a small space for such a successful business, the Chirico crew will produce as many as 1000 loaves on a busy shift. Each
of these loaves will need at least 12 hours of mixing, proving, shaping, resting and baking. The first loaves go into the oven each
morning about 3am; the last come about 1pm. Locals know just when their favourite loaf will be hitting the shelves, and time their
visits accordingly.

Loaves $4.40-$8; pastries $3-$3.80

Tue-Sun 7am-5pm


Monarch (103 Acland St St Kilda; (03) 9534-2972): S10

Try the hotselling plum cake or bite into Adam’s Temptation, a choc-filled creation resembling a rosy apple.

Circa (2 Acland St St Kilda, VIC 3182; (03) 9536-1122): Luxe Travel Guide


At night, Circa can be a very romantic restaurant. When dusk gives way to a backdrop of night-lights flickering from Fitzroy Street
and reflections on the bay, the dining room turns into an enchanted place. But people dine here for all sorts of reasons.

There have been subtle and not-so-subtle changes at this restaurant lately. Andrew McConnell, (owner of Mrs Jones and formerly
the treasure known as Diningroom 211) took over as executive chef late last year. So now the new modern Euro-centric menu re-
flects McConnell's classic training - as in white rabbit with roast pear, foie gras parfait with Madeira jelly and burnet salad ($24).
But there's a nod to other cuisines as well, such as the Middle East with slow-cooked duck wrapped in Tunisian brik pastry fla-
voured with a green peppercorn and tamarind sauce ($35).

Most recently, McConnell appointed the talented Philippa Sibley, the woman regarded as the dessert queen (think of est, est, est
and Ondine, both defunct). Sibley has an artist's eye when it comes to plating and a chef's palate when it comes to pairing flavours.
The vacherin of verbena ice-cream and apricot sherbet with poached almonds and apricot compote ($19) is a triumph.

One constant at Circa is the stunning wine list. Perhaps a bottle of Bellavista cuvee to start ($105) something different to comple-
ment your food? Head sommelier Chris Crawford has the uncanny ability to pick your mood and fancy. Another excellent list is
wines by the glass: how about Granbazan albarino ($14) or Saracco moscato ($10).

Back to that menu, which McConnell tweaks daily to reflect any fabulous produce that has arrived - he likes to source items that are
interesting and stamped with quality such as Bangalow pork, Wagyu beef, or samphire and purslane straight from George Biron's
organic garden in Birregurra.

Part of McConnell's dining vision for Circa is to make Sunday lunch a more leisurely affair with a set menu of four courses ($55) or
matched with wines ($90). Last Sunday was the first and it was a great success. The day was casual and relaxed yet tempered with
excellent service. Children are most welcome and there's fantastic food including Birregurra lamb. Few even noticed Susan Saran-
don was there, unwittingly, for the inaugural event. Perhaps it was a special occasion, just as it was for all of us.

$$$$ (More than $50)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Entrees $19-$24; mains $29-$36; desserts $19; degustation menu $90 (with wine)

Breakfast daily 7-11am. Lunch daily noon-3pm. Dinner daily 6.30pm-10.30pm

Cicciolina (130 Acland St St Kilda, VIC 3182; (03) 9525-3333) - Luxe Travel Guide


The only thing that changes at Cicciolina is the waiting time: you can't predict it, nor plan by it. You may even spy people heading
out, but they're probably hunting for the outside lavs. No, best to expect a wait in the dimly lit back bar, with a Germanic brew and
some tapas to tide you over. But take solace in the fact that expectations will be met in the audibly active dining room.

Once a portion of the crowd has been squeezed back out into Acland Street, swift yet charming staff will shoehorn you in behind
your table and ferry your fare, selected from the never-changing menu. Three creamy, salty prosciutto-wrapped lamb's brains,
haricot-studded minestrone and a very short tart of leek and blue cheese are entrees set in stone. Blackboard specials might be
horseradish-smeared lamb on a cobble of root vegetables, then there are the stayers, like baked baby chicken with Dijon mustard,
and comfort-imbued risotto with shiitake, spinach and truffle oil. A clever, compact wine list provides appropriate plonk, right
through to stickies to match an ashy Morbier cheese.

$$$$ ($36 to $50)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Entrees $8.50-$15.90; mains $19.50-$32.90; desserts $3.50-$12.50

Mon-Sat noon-11pm; Sun noon-10pm

The Stokehouse (30 Jacka Bvd St Kilda VIC 3182; (03) 9525-5555): Luxe Travel Guide

There's a sense of entitlement about Stokehouse: as if the bay were put here so the restaurant could enjoy the view. Everyone in the
beach-shacky dining room seems to be having a good time. Excellent wine service augments a diamond-studded list. The food has
simple Mediterranean foundations, but plays with flavours that halt conversation. Delicate pasta and seafood combinations may
feature sublime linguine with crustaceans, or crab ravioletti with hazelnuts.

Sometimes the kitchen gets too tricky, as with a stuffed quail struggling in a pancetta truss or a trio of scallops circling a mound of
grey pork shavings. Most meat dishes are less worked and better for it: salt-crusted rib-eye set off by lemon and olive oil; succulent
veal with a creamy potato bake. Desserts - like mango and lime trifle with sauterne jelly - display sophistication, a hallmark of this
signature restaurant.

$$$$ ($36 to $50)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip


Entrees $15-$20; mains $28-$38; desserts $15-$18

Lunch daily noon-3pm. Dinner daily 6pm-10pm

Places to shop
Urban Attitude (152 Acland Street St Kilda 3182; (03) 9525 59): R9
Gift shop

St Kilda Esplanade Art and Craft Market (Upper Esplanade, St Kilda; +61 3 9209 6777): R9
This market, set on the coastline of St Kilda, is classified as the oldest art and craft market in Melbourne and each Sunday features
around 220 artisans: painters, potters, jewellers, glass blowers, sculptors and every other art and craft.

Every Sunday 10am–5pm

Metopolis (160 Acland Street St Kilda)
An eclectic selection of books on photography, design, art, travel.

Plantusforsalus (30-32 Grey Street St Kilda)
Whimsical stuff for the garden or the balcony, like oversized painted flowers in galnavized steel, gargoyle fountains and so on.


                                                                 Monday, 19 September 2005
12:00 pm
Depart from hotel to Melbourne Airport. Check-in upon arrival.

3:00 pm
Depart to KLIA

Arrive at KLIA. Check-out.


                                                                                           Other eating places to try:

Andrew's Hamburgers (144 Bridport St, Albert Park; (03) 9690-2126): N5

Andrew Georgiou might have handed the reins over to his nephew Greg Pappas, but the cafe's reputation is still justified.

Of the 393 grams of the burger, a whopping 113 grams of it is meat - a big, crunchy-edged patty of well-seasoned beef. There's
crunch, too, from a well-toasted bun, tanned bacon and the hush-hush presence of shredded cabbage with the lettuce.

Gooiness comes from lightly frying the tomato and a liquefied slice of cheese that seeps out.

There's only one concern - other than the handsome price and that pineapple and beetroot are missing in their burger with the lot:
the egg has been cooked in a small egg ring. Thus it is only an occasional presence during the course of the burger.

It leads me to wonder whether the perfect burger exists in Victoria.

$$$$ (up to $20)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Burger with the lot $7

Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm; Sat 11.30am-4pm, 5pm-9.30pm


Fraus Crepes & Chocolat (345 Victoria St, North Melbourne, VIC 3051; (03) 9328-8999): F3

Perhaps this one should be called "Chocolat & Crepes" because the beverage is among the best in town. At Fraus, a white-painted
wood-panelled creperie, the beverage focus is on some of the most appealing hot chocolates in town. The standard hot choc is a
thick, satiny decadence and those with an even sweeter tooth can choose from white chocolates with hazelnut, zabaglione or co-

Generally, French pancakes can be split into two camps - the thin, tender crepe made with ordinary flour, and the galette. This is a
pancake from Brittany made with gluten-free buckwheat flour. For me, galettes need to be loaded with strong fillings or topping or
they can taste like a cross between wet cardboard and shoe leather.

At Fraus I order a three-cheese galette and sadly for me the dairy is more of a smear than the oozy sludge I would have liked. But
galettes are tricky things and perhaps other varieties such as tuna and tapenade; chicken, cheese and avocado; or cream cheese,
smoked salmon and red onion might be more potently flavoured.

There were crepes, too, and as everyone knows, the best crepe is usually the third out of the pan. Which leads into a whole other
pagan thing - how come the first crepe is always dodgy? It seems such a universal law that in the French town of Brie they have
devised a ritual to deal with it. The first pancake is given to the hens to thank them for the eggs so every pancake humans eat is

$$$$ (up to $20)
Based on entree & main course for one, excluding drinks and tip

Sweet crepes $4-$7, savoury galettes and crepes $7-$12, hot chocolates $3.80-$4.40

Mon- Tue 7.30am-4pm, Wed-Fri 7.30am-10pm, Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 10am-5pm

Colonial Tramcar Restaurant (+61 3 9696 4000)
The lush burgundy-coloured exteriors of these renovated 1927 trams are indicative of the luxurious Victorian interior. The scene
within is surprisingly roomy and opulent, with plush velvet buttoned seating, heavily ruffled curtains and dark woodwork. Indulge
in this innovative approach to dining – a unique way to see Melbourne. It’s a moving experience!

Melbourne's Colonial Tramcar Restaurant has won more tourism awards than Uluru, including four Australian Tourism Awards.


Not all the diners are tourists, though, one of the owners Craig Opie says. "About 50 per cent are but the other 50 per cent are lo-
cals looking for a special event. They're 40th birthdays or wedding anniversaries."

The trams' interiors are instantly comforting and they put you in a happy frame of mind. Ornate, panelled ceilings; tassels on the
light-shades; dark velvet booths; dark timber finishings; gathered, brocaded drapery; heavily starched linen; heavy-handled silver
cutlery. Somehow the fit-out is in no way kitsch or over the top. It's cosy but not cramped.

We have trepidations about the food, to be honest, but the appetiser and entrees bring happy smiles to our silly faces. Chicken liver,
cream and cognac pate - complete with an arty, swirly surface finish - kicks off dinner. It is far from yawn-yawn-not-pate-again; the
richness, seasoning and texture are all spot-on.

The ride is as smooth as the pate. The drivers handle the trams with kid gloves, and all the decor inside keeps the exterior noise low.
It really is like being in an old-world cocoon. You barely notice the occasional incline.

The journey takes you through Melbourne's CBD, down St Kilda Road, up High Street, then back towards South Melbourne via
Glenferrie and Dandenong roads, Carlisle Street and past Luna Park.

The menu offers a choice of two entrees - a kangaroo loin or traditional bisque - then two mains - Mediterranean chicken or prime
eye fillet of beef.

Cheese and dessert come automatically, announces the waiter. The two desserts are chocolate mousse and sticky date pudding.

Any misgivings you might have about the food, however, are soon overcome by the ride and the night - and the bar. There's a gen-
erous array on offer, given the limitations of a moving tram. After a sparkler, there's a choice of a 2001 Alistair Purbrick chardonnay
or a 2000 Tahbilk cabernet sauvignon. Or there's whisky, gin, vodka, Bacardi rum, vermouth or bourbon. The two beers are Stirling
light and Crown lager. Towards the end of the night you can try some Penfold's port, Hennesey cognac, Drambuie, Cointreau, Tia
Maria. This is all included in the price.

4-course lunch $71.50; 3-course dinner $66; 5-course $93.50 (Sun-Thu) $104.50 (Fri-Sat).

Departs from and returns to tramstop #125 Normanby Road, adjacent to the Melbourne Exhibition Centre and Crown Casino. Pas-
sengers must arrive at least 10 minutes before departure with tickets or confirmation slip.

Free CBD parking difficult; try a nearby commercial carpark.

Dinner daily: 3-course 5.45pm-7.15pm; 5-course 8.35pm-11.30pm. Lunch Sat & Sun 1pm-3pm.

Ah Mu (51 Bourke Street; (03) 9654 6800)
Don’t make the mistake by saying that At Mu is a restaurant that serves fusion Asian cuisine. ipoh-born chef Allan Woo will tell you
otherwise. Allan uses the produce found in Australia and marries it with his cooking. And has his childood in Ipoh influenced his
cooking? “Yes I draw from my childhood memories and I put this in my signature dish - the nony ribs.” Indeed, the dish tastes di-
vine, the meat is so tender that it just falls away from the bone.

Spirit of Melbourne (+61 3 9696 0311)
If you love to dine a-la-carte with spectacular views, then do not miss the experience of dining aboard the Spirit of Melbourne –
Melbourne’s first riverboat restaurant. Enjoy superb food and wine while smooth cruising down Melbourne’s Yarra River.

Other places to shop
Sunday Market at the Victorian Arts Centre (Victorian Arts Centre, St Kilda Road, Southbank; +61 3
9281 8581)
Local artisans unite under a canopy of Brunswick green canvas umbrellas to create this bustling Sunday market. Vendors sell only
handmade Australian goods like timber frames, unusual hats, decoupage, wrought-iron work and more.

Every Sunday, 10am–5pm

Camberwell Market (Station Street, Camberwell; +61 3 9813 2977)
Camberwell Market is a Sunday institution with over 350 stalls ranging from antiques to collectibles, bric-a-brac and clothing.

Kikki-K (Ground Floor La Trobe Building; 9645 6346)
Stationery stuff