EAST COAST by niusheng11


									                                                                                                 EAST COAST

         The flight from Taipei to Paris, via Hong Kong, was full, noisy, and nobody wore masks. Transit in
Hong Kong Airport: clean looking, safe, it could have been anywhere in the world. Sleek ceilings, thick
grey carpet, piano jazz soundtrack, a vast designer hospital. The surprisingly soft chatter of duty free
bazaar is initially welcome, as if it was a strictly "no Cantonese area". People of every origin floating in a
trance, lounging in a prozac state of partial high, under the spell of soothing mantras, electronic,
architectural, linguistic; clutters of Asians sipping their convivial soup one hour before departure... We are
far from the extravagant medinas of mainland airports, in Bombay or Guangzhou. Hong Kong's never
been so quiet, it's creepy. Only a trio of vague Commonwealth louts dare disturb the grey-greenish peace.
But every face turns back with an indifferent shrug, busy sipping Starbuck's coffee, reading Cosmo,
shopping for LV, Marlboros, J&Bs, and American car magazines. This is modern Asia. As first enforced in
Singapore and Japan, and now standard goal anywhere along the bustling Far East Coast, under the
patronage of the West - for a complex protection fee, also measured as "added value", under negotiation
within the W.T.O. A modern world fantasized by Europeans and Americans according to their tastes and
education, manufactured in Asia, and reexported with a hefty designer fee.

         Changes. But not changing together... Shouldn't Western style modernization be creating more
ruckus and chaos in continental proportions? The answer is always: that's no excuse to draw attention!
Don't rock the boat. At the risk of unfair generalizations, let's enjoy the amplitude of sliding, sweeping
statements since we're a little early for transit: Asians, Africans, Europeans, Americans, Oceanians,
rainbow people of the same biosphere. So: Asians never raise hell in public. They deal through life's tests
with patience and agility, persevering stubbornly for the big pay-off some time some where, preserving
and duplicating riches, to in the end inescapably squander it all away... And even then, still no sign of
anarchy, coming from such tribal hordes of exuberant, loud spirits. Because thousands of years of
inequality, suffering and catastrophes, and a History far from resolved, have taught the Asian brothers
and sisters a deeper wisdom: self discovery, inner bliss, warm rice and a roof. The sharing of Love and
Happiness in a higher state of consciousness, an all englobing "Om" in glowing neon, approximately half
a pitch higher on the treble dial. That's what Westerners call Asian spirituality, and flock to spas, resorts,
treks and full moon parties to partake in. A transcendent grin. Why make trouble, why worry? Whether
building families, empires along the Far East coast, eating or singing and drinking, Asians are far beyond
such primal emotions as anger or vanity. These are the attributes of short sighted, prejudiced, naive
Westerners, or excitable, cynical Africans. These same lowly trappings have cost dynasties their
posterity. So Asians keep to themselves, wrapped up in traditional garbs: shawls and robes, jeans -
Tshirts and windbreakers, coordinated pant suits, nodding quietly, instantly reinterpreting the world
around in traditional, simplified, phonetic, iconographic, digital, and now abbreviated roman signs: "O不
OK?" - "你con不confirm?"

        Asia's consuming so much of the West, it's started to produce it. Giant, sprawling, interconnected
malls in every language, driven forth by dreams of fortune and ladders of delusion. East, West, ginger
steak, lemon chicken, who knows who's who anyhoo? Gap has sprouted dozens of multimillion dollar
competitors. Giordano in Hong Kong, Naturally Jojo in Taiwan. Fashion, pop, action movies, television...
A global culture indeed, looking strangely like a commercial/residential community anywhere in Suburbia.
Safe, easily accessible, recognizable, resellable. One look at modern apartments anywhere along the Far
East Coast reveals the same symptoms of Western aspirations: the living room has recentred around a
huge TV/karaoke set, away from the even more cumbersome altar. Framed pictures of graduation,
diplomas, babies and pets, holidays through airports and coffee shops. Cupboard shelves display not
books but bottles of VSOP. The television is permanently on, spewing daytime local series, gory news,
and celebrity game shows.
          There is no question that every urban population across the planet now is severely Americanized,
whether they like it or not. It was a running joke in Paris's literary circles, referring to the century old flow
of Chinese artists seeking refuge, that one week on the Left Bank was enough to close a chapter of ten
thousand years of civilization. But, back home in Asia, the throngs of emerging middle classes all
celebrate fantasies of American success: from fashion to diet, entertainment, "business spirit", language,
lifestyle goals and female beauty standards. Plastic surgery has boomed since the 80's for double eyelids
and breast implants, producing a whole generation of mothers looking like Joan Collins. The
Westernization of the East had started with a first wave of Europeanization with electricity, social dancing,
recorded music and pictures, three piece suits, drugs and communism, and was overrun by the Second
World War Americanization of the entire "Free World", Europe and Asia alike: from McArthur's new
Constitution in Japan, to American forces and dollars in South East Asia, the "Voice of America", comics,
movies and rock and roll... Not only was Asia waking up from centuries of obscurantism or colonial
domination, to the individualistic tones of Freedom and short skirts, its urban boom brought to action its
formidable, historical adaptability. Never mind the prude rebuttals of "white demon" culture by stubborn
parents against their daughters' emancipation. The merchant elite and families who had saved all their
lives sent their children to predominantly North American education, counseled by Baptist or Methodist or
computer nerds. Call it well invested Anti Communism. The 70's were topsy turvy, and its growing pains
are far from over. Let's not stop at skinny Asians in bell bottoms: at least men had as (only) role model
Bruce Lee, while their wives fought widely spread macho barbarism, armed with education and big hair.
The 80's generation of ABCs (American Born Chinese) was a square, scary set. Buttoned up, quiet,
disciplined, hard working or discreetly goofing off, staring into space eyes half opened, looking enigmatic
while plotting for global takeover, taking jobs and money with a gentleman smile, learning fast,
reinvesting, building forts, territories. To that effect Asians abroad know how to use the minority report
card as a simple, "gweilo-friendly" ("foreigner friendly" in Cantonese), zen social interaction. Forget the
bravado of Africans or Latinos. Behind the pleasant, innocuous fence, is the sound of a gentle brook,
whispering softly, the flowing trade of money, economics rising like waves...

          A sea of change to surf for Eternity, for a while... Not like white surf dudes turning death defying
tricks, but standing abreast, highest dolphin among highest kites, pulling a dragon constellation of family
and friends, spinning orbital destinies, entangled in life or death, in presence or absence, all reflected as
complementary projections of each other. Out there, the blinking charms and chants of Happiness,
Fortune, Health, Luck, Prosperity, are more than cultural folklore: they serve as calling cards in the
confusing cycle of Life. And now that folks got internet, the World is theirs for the taking! Cousins in far off
mountains are catching up with a year of night classes: an ancient survival instinct has taught every
sacrificing mother the fruits of education. It was confronted to foreign lands, danger, fear of the unknown,
as such not unlike young Americans, with all the genocides and wars, that Asians have grown and built
civilizations more advanced then our present Western one lah, on many levels: medicine, science, arts,
and a complex wisdom made of stubborness and coolness, simplicity and superstition, a certain working
familarity with absurdity. All Asia needs to conquer is ignorance. It is very slowly rising to dominate the
world, in economic and cultural power. For Good or Evil, it could reign supreme by its sheer progress and
scale. Indeed current trends seem to be appropriately twisting to fit a fabulous meltdown, hailing perhaps
the self destruction of Capitalism at its extreme expression in Asia. Scruffy old Asia might very well
surprise everyone and mess it all up faster than the West... One elegant way out would be the future
coming together of the East and West, but through the back door seas, extending the Pacific's bicoastal
grip on half the planet: with the ocean acting as a gigantic hotpot of natural ressources, Asians from both
sides of the steamboat are manufacturing, designing, programming, cooking and consuming the Rest Of
the World. And visiting Europe for tourism. It would close an extreme generation gap that holds the
promise of a long forgotten kin, echoing the "Indian" civilizations long before European colonization.
Formidable jumps in human knowledge, through adaptation and death, pioneering rebirths of the Ancient
into the Young. Seen on a large scale, or from outer space, Human progress could be assimilated to
disparate, self-regenerating growths on the surface of the Earth: black, white, yellow, red, brown...
Fighting for space and resources, we curb and mutate our material world to accommodate asymptotic
population changes, just as a feisty predator, a viral strain, or other prolific varieties of moss on planet
Mars. We reinvent ourselves and adapt to our position in the food chain, gliding across the Globe like
fantastic cloud formations or climactic cycles or so many anticyclones of inspiration, production, and
desire. Dream and fantasy, moving rapidly across the lands and seas, along skylines and populations,
rising chains and bursting synapses, crops of megapoles growing and dying. The fun part with Humans is
it makes for good stories to tell, for a species so unadapted naturally to change, and so ensconced with
fanciful memories.
          So now it is time for Asia to show off, because it is the most globally adaptive, to anywhere in the
world. It is perhaps the strange, not apparently useful wisdom of having partied for thousands of years,
improvising drunken poems to the Moon, songs which would outlast wars and emperors. Likewise,
Europe's Epicurian "art de vivre" may be heavy on the taxes now, but it is raking in some profits: tourism,
and locking a position in the world's memory, for eternal posterity. A formidable feat in just 2,000 years!
And how will Asia fare in the XXIst century, under the dollar whore? Will it not become a massive
manufacturer and consumer of Western products, a gigantic pulsating, digesting, secreting pump
supporting the lifestyle of an aging G8 minority? Just as inequalities grow, the world's middle classes are
rushing to the upper deck of the boat, forking over their past and baggage for the big transcultural couch
in the sky: discount bin lifestyle designer good, DIY, deliverable. Paris, New York, London, Rome, Rio,
Tokyo, Shanghai are all available in special box set. A lounge music compilation, a fashion magazine
feature, a restaurant menu, a costume party, a theme park, it's all an international fiesta of style. It is
finally time, after much democratic toil and bubble, to enjoy the revolutionary Western invention: the
personal credit card. The booming Asia rush for middle class affluence, initially propelled by Western style
liberalism and the (Basic) rule of Law, is now contentedly satisfied with a yearly group tour through
Europe or Canada - check the photo albums. All one needs is a few night classes of Conversational
English; "You can do it!", "Give me Five!!!!!", "Oh yeah!", a disposable collection of pirate video discs,
regular updates on what's being sold at fashion trap boutiques, that's enough Western culture at a time.
What were once emblemas of the West, are now international franchises: McDonald's, Louis Vuitton,
Chanel, Coca Cola, Harry Potter, Eminem, all digested as local, integral status symbols. Ostentatious
Western influence is no more limited to university litterati in turtlenecks and berets (typical Taiwanese art
scene), or Tokyo's specialized connoisseur press and otaku collectors on TV; gone is the conscious
"foreign" affiliation with all the disgrace attached to such marginal behaviour, the modernist act of
rebellion polluted by the progressist illusions of a childish Western world. In our time's distribution
networks, eBay, Warner Village, HMV, Costco, Ikea, any smidgen of White Devil social smut is
immediately vacuum pressed and logo-doggy-bagged for premium card members. Today's youths all
flash J-Lo navels and Ben Affleck casuals, but it epitomizes the successful marketing of personal brand
value, more than the Triumph of the West. The West is an expensive, taxing dream, for overweight
Asians, soulless, money grabbing whores of the Golden Calf. It is to be consumed with moderation, one
holiday package at a time, or to extoil the follies of youth in grad school. Now the East is completely self
sufficient, all absorbent, but not shock resistant: mother Nature's always stronger. It is a new
Renaissance, millions of lives toil and die as slaves, or as tycoons with a private bottle in every piano-bar.
The West, the funny neighbour across the street, is a big junk dispenser, gadgetizable ad nauseam for an
average trial period of 6 months. And even then, the East has become an early adopter of of mass
consumer practices long before the West, as in take away food, pagers, mobile phones, karaoke, reality

         Seen from the East, the (Far) West is so over it's "VER" (super magazine from Thailand). While
the "free world" gobs up Justin Timberlake and Craig Davis, Asia's been taking Western artistic forms
further than they were ever expected: Yellow Magic Orchestra's techno pop in the 80s, Cui Jian or the Fly
(Beijing), Lin Jiang (Taipei) or Ua (Osaka)'s raw underground rock put Morphine and the whole Limpish
Biskits and Lilith Fair to shame, Towa Tei and Mondo Grosso are up there with Masters at Work or King
Britt. The axis of births and deaths has repositioned to the Pacific Mediterranean, a repository sea cap
nurturing the rest of the whole world's crawling and reproducing amoeba. It is heating and boiling with the
agglutinate, sucking vacuums of almost half the world's population. Its cancerous explosions glow as
bright and red as the megawatt flares of sun storms and starbursts. Speed building megapoles of
industry, standardized housing developments covered in bathroom tiles, regional commuting and
entertainment. Small trades are quickly replaced by centralized manufacturing and distribution chains,
whose hygiene and safety standards will take generations to fine-tune. Hence the cholera, SARS or
chicken/pork/beef/seafood flues, as so many natural self regulation checks. In the midst of these ant mills
sprouting and reproducing in a Babylon frenzy, along with the collective gas emissions of millions, will any
real prophet stand up? Asian wisdom calls for each one to be their own prophet, to seek the Truth within,
but society is quick to slap out any trace of individualism other than personal lunch boxes. A role model, a
hero, a politician to move the masses, a senatorial academic, a nouveau riche mechanic turned sponsor
of the Arts? Where are the Uncles and Aunties of yore, looking down from their misty mountains? Playing
mahjong in their private tea rooms, down at the races with their young lovers / personal assistants, wives
shopping and husbands playing golf. It's up to the young generation then. But they've already been
broken in and tamed into career machines, emulating a superficial Western lifestyle made of club
memberships, video games, car upgrades, plastic surgery and all night binges. The junior generation
perhaps then? Locked on MTV, dressed in gangsta rap attire, or preppy urban Polo/jeans, they are not
much better off. It's a terrifying Vanilla Ice syndrome. From Hong Kong, to Malaysia, Philippines, Korea,
Japan, Taiwan, hip hop culture has eradicated all alternatives to being cool (example:
<http://myweb.hinet.net/home3/jesus2003/>), so much so that one needs to be either geek, retro punk, or
outcast: kilos of piercings and messy ghost hair, i.e. the homeless look from Gobi desert.
         Such "acculturation" - the loss, or renouncement of one's culture(s) - should be blamed on the
lack of any valid local proposition. One must understand that the very term "local" is derogatory,
condescendent, only sometimes endearing because one's parents or childhood friends remain rooted in
the mother soil. There lies the ruddy rub: in a massive rush for modernization and productivity-led
education, all notions of regional History, dialects, cultural pride, were castrated and mashed in a
bastardized post-colonial propaganda grub, where the American/English language - taught by whatever
stoner on a sabbatical world tour - became the key to salvation. As a result, societies have split into two
defiant halves, ignorant of each other: local blue collar, down and dirty, and Westernized white collar, with
blinkers. And there specifically lies the East's new dawn! The larger societies stretch, noses grown
dangerously long in the collective lie of national growth, industries relocalizing incessantly to New
Territories of cheaper labour, masses converging to border town workshops mushroomed into cities of the
Future, such as Shenzhen (in China's Special Economic Zone of Guang Dong), the more people caught
in between will fall off, take the jump and refute such a deceitful choice: artists, designers, up to now
caught in the daily grind of short term, narrow minded production companies or agencies, slaving away
for conservative and volatile clients, producing crass imitations of Western or Japanese work, even
bankers and lawyers and investors and consultants, tired of meaningless speculative politics and
inhumane careerism, hurt bad enough by five years of rippling recession, are taking leave, they are
saying no to wages and rental of their life. These disenfranchised youths, in their twenties and up to
forties, are creating their own little firms, from design: see www.instituteofmatter.com (HK),
www.atomicattack.com (HK), Kactus Design (HK) www.ffurious.com (SG), www.theclickproject.com (ML),
architecture: www.moulin-orange.com (TW), fashion: Junkie (HK), The Edge (HK), Stephane Dou (TW),
Soda (TH), Good Mixer (TH), Issue (TH), Tube (TH), Legend (TH) and accessories: Propaganda (TH),
www.argentum.com.sg, to multimedia: www.shift.org.jp, www.panism.com (HK), www.idnworld.com (HK)
and consulting: www.thefiltergroup.com, freelancing and multitasking: www.marc-et-chantal.com (HK),
taking over small shop houses in low rent Chinatown, publishing limited edition collectors for fun,
magazines: Relax (JP), www.storemagazine.net (HK), misc. (TW), Ver (TH), Obsession (TW), Trigger
(SG/PH), www.eggmagazine.com (TW), www.thatnega.com (TW), doing charity and preservation work,
bringing art to parts of town long forgotten (www.lomographyasia.com), red light districts, subway stations
and derelict prisons. Typically, you'd have a power business woman in her thirties, pentathlon / rock
climber, nursing an all year tan to her college friends' pearly white dismay: in a funny way, to have a tan is
Western, with freckles and even wrinkles, and white skin is the prerogative of Asian aristocracy - but
that's more got to do with evolution and prejudice than cultural polarities. This feisty new power woman is
also a specialist in massage, herb diets and Balinese decor, is tattooed and pierced, and associates with
a local crew of pale, skinny punk characters with shady pasts, to make their own tight little brand, and
grow slowly but fiercely, carefully choosing their clients and events. This is no thanks to the music
industry, where all independent labels are Losing retailers to mass majorettes, because of some rock'n
roll mass suicide. John Zorn doesn't come here anymore. The media has lost the audience, to karaoke.
But, on the brighter side: on the brighter side of every original there is a B side, the other side of the
Moon: Wong Faye / Bjork, Hamasaki Ayumi / Kate Bush on special K, Anita Mui always the diva Madonna
fantasizes about... Let's pray they never become interchangeable expenses in the big shopping bag,
hogging the play lists of every radio station in every 7-11 in Asia, and every toilet.
         For every Westerner there is more than one Asian, multilingual, at ease all around the world
thanks to the tentacular network of Asian communities long implanted everywhere, sharing the most
important love that is: food. This new generation of dropouts, reconverted bankers and noodle rockers are
not Young Asian Professionals, but their chill, obsessive, freakish counterparts. One needs to look no
further than some unique pieces of cinema these past few years in the Far East, breaking away from local
standards, Hollywood conventions or auteur clichés: "Runaway Pistol" by Lam Wah-Chuen (HK), "Joint
Security Area" or "Sympathy for Mr. Vengeance" by Park Chan-Wook (KR), "Bad Guy" by Kim Ki-Duk II
(KR), "Battle Royale" I and II (JP), "Bullet ballet" or "Tetsuo Bodyhammer" by Tsukamoto Shinya (JP),
"Transistor Radio Romance,” “Fun Bar Karaoke” and “6ixtynin9" by Pen-ek Rattanaruang (TH), "A one
and a two" by Edward Yang (TW). They should be milking their square ex colleagues for all their
corporate money, and dictating the future directions of Asian creativity. With all the cash and talents
returning home with big dollar eyes and post internet savvy, the Eastern wind should be hot and sticky in
the beginning, but a killer ride. While the masses struggle to find their temporary holds in the survivalist
food chain, it is in the hands of a few outcasts to salvage the proverbial Oriental spirituality, the universal
harmony of karmic vibes and spicy nights. As long as the usual majors and media monopoles control the
flow of investments in production and distribution, independent media and productions will suffer. The
main headache is that for lack of mature, diversified local industries, Asian talents must first make a name
abroad, in order to gain some sort of financial credibility at home, as director Lee Ang did, after years of
expatriation. The trap is that directors recognized and financed by the West (France principally) fall into a
festival ghetto scorned by local media and audiences: the formidable Fruit Chan (HK), or Hou Hsiao
Hsien and Tsai Ming Liang (TW). To really make it, Asia's young crop of artists and business ventures
must dig their own trajectories across increasingly like-minded markets, without vying for established
sugar daddies like major labels, Miramax or the now moribund Canal Plus. South American and African
movies and music, through thick and thin, have managed to slowly spill over into transnational releases,
as exciting alternatives to local slosh and Hollywood imports. Equally, Asian reservoirs of energy and
talent are brimming the world over, cooking up magnificent banquets that need only be served by the right
hands to eager publics. Coming soon to a block party near you.

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