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20th Century Women of Style

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					         The National Jewelry Institute in collaboration with the Museum of the City of New York present

                                                                                                                                                                         A’Lelia Walker
                                                                                                                                                                         Alice Tully
                                                                                                                                                                         Amy Fine Collins
                                                                                                                                                                         Angela Lansbury
                                                                                                                                                                         Anita Loos
                                                                                                                                                                         Ann Woodward
                                                                                                                                                                         Annette de la Renta
                                                                                                                                                                         Barbara “Babe” Paley
                                                                                                                                                                         Barbara Taylor Bradford

                            20th Century Women of Style
                                                                                                                                                                         Barbara Walters
                                                                                                                                                                         Bella Abzug
                                                                                                                                                                         Bernice Chrysler Garbisch
                 September 14, 2010 - January 3, 2011 / Museum of the City Of New York, 1220 Fifth Avenue, New York City                                                 Betsy Pickering Kaiser
                                                                                                                                                                         Bette Midler
                                                                                                                                                                         Betty Furness
                                                                                                                                                                         Brooke Astor
                                                                                                                                                                         Carmen DeLavallade
                                                                                           Babe Paley                                                                    Carolina Herrera
                                                                                                                                                                         Cathie Black
                                                                                                                                                                         Clara Rockmore
                                                                                    “As her old friend                                                                   Clare Booth-Luce
                                                                                                                                                                         Corice Canton Arman
                                                                                    Tex McCrary once                                                                     Diana Vreeland
                                                                                                                                                                         Dina Merrill
                                                                              exulted, ‘In a ball gown,                                                                  Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Warfield Simpson
                                                                                                                                                                         Edith Bouvier Beale
                                                                                    bikini, or ice pack                                                                  Edith Rhinelander
                                                                                                                                                                         Eleanor Butler Roosevelt
                                                                                 Babe Paley is the one                                                                   Eleanor Elkins Rice
                                                                                                                                                                         Eleanor Searle Whitney
                                                                                                                                                                         Eleanor “Elly”Thomas Elliot
                                              Above:
                                                                                     woman all wives                                                                     Elsie Whelen Goelet Clews
                                                                                                                                                                         Ethel Scull
                                              Gloria Vanderbilt                 permit their husbands                                                                    Eugenia Sheppard
                                              Man in the Moon Earclips                                                                                                   FannieHurst
                                              Tiffany & Co., 1970’s          to admire. It’s a waste of                                                                  Florence Gould
                                              Gold, milk chalcedony                                                                                                      Frances “Fanny” Morgan
                                              Tiffany & Co., Archives       time to envy the utmost.”’                                                                   Frances “Peter” Loeb
                                                                                                                                                                         Geraldine Stutz
                                                                                                                                                                         Gloria Vanderbilt
                                              Left:                                            – The Sisters                                                             Grace Wilson Vanderbilt
                                              Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis                                                                                                 Gypsy Rose Lee
                                                                                                                                                                         Helena Rubinstein
                                              Duchess of Windsor,                                                                                                        Hilary Geary Ross
                                              Wallis Warfield Simpson               Right: Barbara “Babe” Paley                                                          Ilka Chase
                                                                                                                                                                         Imogene Wilson
 Jackie Kennedy Onassis                                                                  Fashion i mages B elow                                                          Iris Apfel
                                                                                                                                                                         Isadora Duncan
 “A newspaper reported that I                       Duchess of Windsor           Ethel Scull            Bernice Chrysler Garbisch           Barbara “Babe” Paley         Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
                                                                                                                                                                         Jane Engelhard
 spent $300,000 a year buying                                                                                                                                            Jayne Wrightsman
                                                                                                                                                                         Jessye Norman
 Paris clothes and that women                                                                                                                                            Joan Crawford
 hate me for it. I couldn’t spend                                                                                                                                        Katherine Garrison Chapin Biddle
                                                                                                                                                                         Kitty Carlisle Hart
 that much unless I wore sable                                                                                                                                           Lady Slim Keith
 underwear.”                                                                                                                                                             Laura Johnson
                                                                                                                                                                         Lauren Bacall
                                                                                                                                                                         Lena Horne
                                                                                                                                                                         Lilly Fallah Lawrence
                                                                                                                                                                         Louise Nevelson
                                                                                                                                                                         Louise Whitefield Carnegie
                                                                                                                                                                         Marian Anderson
                                                                                                                                                                         Marie Miller Kavanaugh
                                                                                                                                                                         Marina Rust
                                                                                                                                                                         Marjorie Merriweather Post
                                                                                                                                                                         Mary Flagler Cary
                                                                                                                                                                         Mary French Rockefeller
                                                                                                                                                                         Mary Ann Blumenthal
                                                                                                                                                                         Mercedesde Acosta
   Above: Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis                 Christian Dior Paris   Stephen Burrows’ World          Christian Dior Paris               Valentino Roma            Mona Williams von Bismarck
Handbag, Maker Unknown, 1970’s, Yellow gold                  1968                  ca. 1970                         1964                            1969                 Pat Buckley
            Vartanian & Sons, Inc.                                                                                                                                       Pauline Elizabeth Woolworth
                                                                                                                                                                         Rosamund Bernier
                                                                                                                        Left:                                            Ruth Draper
 Ethel Scull                                                                                                            Bernice Chrysler Garbisch                        Sophie Tucker
                                                                                                                                                                         Sunny von Bulow
 “Divorced and Alone, she understood the difficulty of                                                                  Invisibly Set Ruby and Diamond Circle Earclips   Susan Gutfreund
 navigating the social waters of Manhattan without property.”                                                           Van Cleef & Arpels, 1941                         Thelma “Teddy” Lansky
                                                                                                                        Ruby, diamonds                                   Tina Chow
 – Portrait of a Collection
                                                                                                                        Private Collection

                                                                                                                Right:
             Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Warfield Simpson                                                Joan Crawford
             Prince Edward to the future Duchess of Windsor,“Wallis, you’re
             the only woman who’s ever been interested in my job. ”
                                                                                                              Far Right:
             – The Fortune Hunters                                                                   Hilary Geary Ross
                                                                                                              Necklace
                                                                                                            Graff, 1990’s
                                                                                                      Yellow diamonds,
                                                                                                       white diamonds
                                                                                                       Hilary Geary Ross


                                Above: Joan Crawford
                  Bracelet, Raymond Yard, 1932, Platinum, diamonds                         N2
                                 Vartanian & Sons, Inc.
       N4        NOTORIOUS & NOTABLE: 20th Century Women of Style

                                                     A dialogue about the exhibition between Judy Price, President of the National Jewelry
                                                     Institute, and Phyllis Magidson, Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Museum of the
                                                     City of New York.
                                                                                                                                                         JP: You often refer to a woman who can afford the gowns or
   JP: How were these notorious and                                                         Lady Slim Keith                                              the jewels. What was the cost of the gowns or of the jewels at the
   notable women selected?                                                                                                                               beginning of the century in today’s dollars?
                                                                                            “My celebrity was born less from
   PM: We looked at several aspects of                                                      me than from others’ perception of                           PM: It is difficult to really come up with a cost on these items
   their personal and professional status in                                                                                                             because they were, certainly the pieces that you refer to, one-
   New York City - stature in society, culture,
                                                                                            me. It was about good looks, brains,
                                                                                                                                                         of-a-kind pieces that required the foremost top couture houses
   profession. These define their positions of                                              taste, and style... The only ingredient                      working on possibly their most singular garments. Certainly we
   prominence so that the public monitors                                                   I brought to this recipe was the                             know that even in the 19th century a typical afternoon toilette
   their comings and goings, observing                                                      recognition that, while you have to                          produced by Maison Worth would have been equal in cost to a
   nuances of their lives through the extensive                                                                                                          year’s salary for a middle class worker. So it is very difficult to
                                                                                            be natural, you also have to be
   media of New York City. These women                                                                                                                   imagine what an extravagant ball gown might have cost at that
   coincidentally share unique aspects of                                                   different. If, that is, you want to                          time, but certainly at least equal to the $200,000+ cost of haute
   appearance – attire, hair, jewelry – which                                               make an impact.”                                             couture gowns today. We also know that some of the jewelry
   make them distinctive and recognizable                                                   – Slim: Memories of a Rich and Imperfect Life                that Tiffany was producing at the turn of the 20th century would
   either today or in their own time. Their                                                                                                              have been equal in value to $1,000,000 now.
                                                                                            Left: Lady Slim Keith
   names and faces are iconic in the social
   history of New York City.                                                                                                                                                JP: Do you think that these women’s
                                                                                                        Right: Lady Slim Keith
   JP: Which among all of these notorious and notable women                   Brooch, Tiffany & Co., 1950’s, 18k gold, platinum,                                            husbands or gentleman friends had any
   had the most complete sense of style?                                     amethyst, diamonds, rubies, Tiffany & Co., Archives                                            influence on what they wore?
   PM: On a fashion level certainly Mrs. Harrison Williams - who was named the “Best-Dressed Woman in the World“- by a                                                      PM: It depended on the woman. Wallis
   committee of Parisian couturiers. Mona’s was a memorable appearance simply by virtue of her own personal attributes – her                                                Warfield Simpson, who became the Duchess
   hair turned silver while she was a still a teenager; she had memorable aquamarine-colored eyes. Cecil Beaton referred to                                                 of Windsor, staged every aspect of her
   her as a work of art, and literally worshipped her. She dressed magnificently simply by virtue of the fact that every time she                                           existence – most especially her mode of dress
   married - which she did five times - she succeeded in snagging someone more than financially capable of supporting her                                                   - around her husband Edward. The items of
   extravagant tastes in couture clothing and jewelry. She herself became an artifact. There was no ambiguity as to her identity, whether she appeared on the pages of      jewelry that were counted amongst her most
   Vogue, in the society columns, or mentioned by Ed Sullivan. She was always iconic. She commanded all eyes when she entered a room at the numerous hubs of New            memorable when she died were the ones that
   York’s Café Society. Hers was a memorable presence, whether she was spotted at a New York night spot, or at leisure in Capri; it was a signature style which combined    Edward had given her. Her iconic “garter” and
   a fantasy wardrobe, fabulous jewels, and a pedigreed posture that could be interpreted as the archetypical debutante slouch                                              charm bracelets, as well as other legendary
       Babe Paley is another one. Barbara Cushing Paley– she married twice – first to Stanley G. Mortimer, Jr., the second time to William S. Paley, who again              pieces produced by Cartier, Van Cleef and
   indulged her extraordinary tastes, solidifying her position as a fashion persona. Originally a junior editor at Vogue she was always abreast with the fashions           Arpels, and Harry Winston, were all items
   of the day. She became, early on, a favorite model for Mainbocher. She was so frequently mentioned in and photographed for Vogue that periodically she                   for which he participated in their design or
   would be used as a sketch model without even being identified – everyone knew who she was. Her style was always sophisticated, clean, epitomizing what                   purchased rare stones.
   Mainbocher stood for as a couturier. She would be impeccably jeweled, not excessively, not in outlandish or vulgar objects of adornment, but simply in pieces
   that contributed to her complete ensemble and, moreover, contributed to her persona.                                                                                                       Q & A continued on N 6

   JP: Who was the most “fashion forward” at the beginning of                 expression. I’m thinking specifically in terms of Isadora Duncan,
   the 20th century?                                                          who defined the bohemian community - she was dressed by
   PM: At the beginning of the 20th century it is difficult to                Mariano Fortuny and would be wearing again the most artistic
   really think in terms of our current vision of fashion forward.            of garments – the tea gowns, the eponymous pleated Delphos -
   I think that it would have been somebody who was dressing                  items of clothing that could never be mistaken for high fashion.
   in the most costly, ostentatious clothing of the day; somebody             They were conceived and worn to have perpetual relevance. So
   who had the money to underwrite the indulgence of those                    in that respect she was beyond fashion. She was also certainly a
                                                                              favorite client of Paul Poiret and the piece that we are featuring in
Frances “Fanny” Morgan / Mrs. JP Morgan                                       the exhibition is a very rare Greek key-patterned, bone seed, bead-
                                                                              embroidered, high-waisted Greco-Roman revival gown from about
“Fanny hated the press, stating:‘Publicity,’ Mrs. Morgan
                                                                              1911-1912 by Poiret.
said, ‘is dreadful to a woman of refinement, and
frequently does a great deal of harm by giving out news
regarding future events before those connected with the
organization of these affairs are ready.’”
– The New York Times


   tastes. It would have been someone like Mrs. JP Morgan who
   was married to arguably the richest man in America in 1900.
   She owned spectacular gowns made by the prominent Parisian
   couturiers. Our exhibition piece is a magnificent gown designed                                                                                                                              Clare Booth-Luce
   by Worth in Paris – by then, Charles Frederick’s son, Jean Philippe
   Worth, who really created for her one of the most fabulous items
                                                                                                                                                            Left: Clare Booth-Luce Suite
   in our permanent collection, black silk tulle frosted with iridescent                                                                                    Tiffany & Co., 1930’s
   blue-green dragonflies and butterflies.                                                                                                                  14k gold, platinum, diamonds, sapphires
       There were also individuals who used fashion as a means of self                                                                                      Tiffany & Co., Archives
                                         NOTORIOUS & NOTABLE :                                     N6
                                         20th Century Women of Style

                                              The women themselves, like Mrs. Harrison
                                              Williams who subsequently became the
                                              Countess von Bismarck as well as the
                                              Countess de Martini, collected jewelry the
                                              way that other people collected stamps. It
                                              was just sheer indulgence. Their men adored
           these women and wanted to do anything to make them happy. Mona Williams
           had books and books of orders that she had placed with
           Balenciaga in the late 1950’s with documented details of          Ann Woodward
           each pésage number of the couture house, textile swatch for
                                                                             Her mother-in-law said
           each garment, and its description; hundreds and hundreds          of her death, “Well that’s
           of invoices from Roger Vivier who fabricated the matching         that: she shot my son,
           shoes. I don’t think that the men were not always involved        and Truman just
           in these transactions; it stands to reason that if the men        murdered her”
           were footing the bill the women certainly would not
                                                                             – New York Magazine
           consider buying something that the male in their life did
           not endorse wholeheartedly.
           JP: Many W magazine readers have gone to exhibitions of
           fashion throughout the world – what makes this show unique?
           PM: This show is our first opportunity to exhibit items of
           clothing and theatrical costume juxtaposed with fabulous
           examples of fine jewelry. Most museum collections of


VERTICAL
           costume generally do not combine costume and fine
           jewelry in one installation. Periodically if there is a
           signature item of jewelry that is indelibly coupled with a
           single personality they will be shown together. I love the


 GRAFF
           opportunity of showing the jewelry alongside the clothing
           because these two categories of adornment constitute the
           most expressive devices to visually communicate one’s
           personality or one’s individualism. Jewelry is something


   AD
           that is almost talismanic for many people. Even women Fashion aBove:
           who own many fabulous examples of jewelry, will have Ann Woodward
           one or two pieces which they are rarely seen without - Balenciaga, 1965-66
           either they are sentimental about the object or they have
           worn it at some memorable moment in their lives - truly endearing that piece
           to that individual. It is a very personal means of self expression. Most jewelry
           historians really focus on jewelry and generally exclude the clothing, and
           vice versa with people focused on clothing who don’t really cross over into
           the realm of jeweled adornment. To me the two combine wonderfully as a
           complete means of self expression.


                                    Helena Rubenstein
                           “ There are no ugly women, only lazy ones.”


                                                                                       Fashion leFt:
                                                                                       Helena Rubinstein
                                                                                       Unattributed (Paris)
                                                                                       late 1950’s




                          Above: Helena Rubinstein
                Belle Epoque Peacock Feather Brooch
                             Maker unknown, 1900’s
                  Yellow gold, white gold, diamonds,
                       cabochon emerald, sapphires
                                Historical Design, Inc.
N8        NOTORIOUS & NOTABLE: 20th Century Women of Style


 Questions & Answers: Questions with AXA Art’s President and Chief Executive Officer, Christiane Fischer
 Q: What is AXA Art?
 A: AXA Art is the world’s leading fine arts and collectibles insurance specialist. With offices
    located across North America, Europe and Asia, AXA Art protects clients’ cultural assets
    including fine art, collectibles, antique furniture, rare books, manuscripts, stamps, coins,
    vintage wine, classic cars - virtually anything that can be bought and sold at auction.
 Q: Does AXA Art insure fine jewelry?
 A: Yes, of course. We offer coverage on all categories of jewelry, from ancient to
    vintage to contemporary. Many of our clients with fine art collections choose to
    also insure their jewelry with AXA Art. We also have many collector clients that
    focus exclusively on jewelry, many with museum-quality pieces.

                    Eugenia Sheppard
                    “To call a fashion wearable is the kiss of death. No fashion worth                                        Fashions aBove: Lena Horne, Giorgio de St. Angelo, 1981 /
                    its salt is ever wearable.” – New York Herald Tribune                                                     Sunny von Bülow, Christian Dior, ca. 1968 / Eugenia Sheppard, Scassi, 1984


                                                                                                     Sonny von Bülow (Martha Crawford)
                                                              Left: Diana Vreeland
                                                              Fish Lighter                           The author Dominick Dunne said she was a “beautiful and shy”
                                                              Schlumberger, 1940’s                   woman who “really did not like the social life, although she was
                                                              Gold, ruby, emerald                    totally associated with the social life”.” - New York Times
                                                              Private Collection

                                                                                                            Q: Why is it important to insure fine art and jewelry separately
                                                                                                                from other property covered under a homeowners’ policy?
                                                                                                            A: Standard homeowners’ policies are not specifically designed to
 Bette Midler                                                                                                   adequately cover fine art, collectibles and jewelry. At AXA Art, our
 “I wouldn’t say I invented tacky but I definitely                                                              policies are specifically written to cover valuable objects, fine
 brought it to its present high popularity.”                                                                    arts and collections. Every policy we write is evaluated by both
                                                                                           (Left)                                        experienced insurance professionals
                                                                                           Marjorie Merriweather Post Hutton             and fine art specialists to ensure proper
                                                                                Rabbit Brooch, Raymond Yard, 1929                        coverage and a custom insurance
                                                                                Enamel, diamonds, rubies                                 solution that fits the client’s specific needs.
                                                                                Vartanian & Sons, Inc.


                                                                         Q: What distinguishes AXA Art from generalist property insurance competitors?
                                                                         A: A deep understanding and appreciation of objects of value is at the very center of our
                                                                            business model. Our ultimate goal is to support collectors and stewards of the art world
                                                                            in managing and caring for their collections. In addition to offering insurance products,
                                                                            we concentrate on risk prevention. Our claims professionals are recognized leaders in
                                                                            field of art and collectiblesloss adjustment and work with our clients to resolve claims
                                                                            expeditiously and fairly. Finally,our global network of industry experts allows us to explore
                                                                            new ways to protect and conserve valuable objects.
                                                                              For more information on AXA Art Insurance and coverage for jewelry, fine art and collectibles,
                                                                              please visit www.axa-art.com
                     Marjorie Merriweather Post Hutton

Section Photos courtesy of: Cecil Beaton, Condé Nast Publications, Inc., Graff, Hillwodd Museum, Historical Design, Inc., Museum of the City of New York, Patrick N. Pagnano, Tiffany & Co., Vartanian & Sons, Inc.


                       NOTORIOUS & NOTABLE:                                                          the exhibition is made possible by the generous support of:
                                                                                                     Graff
             20th Century Women of Style
                                                                                                     AXA Art Insurance Corporation
                           can be viewed at the
                                                                                                     Nespresso / DIOR Couture / LVMH / W magazine
                   Museum of the City of New York                                                    Moet et Chandon / Brian Frasca / Elizabeth Miller and James Dinan
             1220 Fifth Avenue @ 103rd Street, New York City
                                                                                                     Patron’s Council: UBS, Helena Rubinstein Foundation,
             from September 14, 2010 through January 4, 2011                                         Nishan and Victoria Vartanian, Marianna and George Kaufman, Suzanne Slesin,
                      Installation Design: Wendy Evans Joseph Architecture                           Dr. Charlie and Claire Shaeffer, The William R. and Virginia F. Salomon Family Foundation


                                                 ABOUT THE MUSEUM OF THE CITY OFNEW YORK / www.mcny.org
THE MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK explores the past, present, and future of New York City and celebrates its heritage of diversity, opportunity, and perpetual transformation. Founded in 1923 as
a private non-profit corporation, the Museum serves the people of New York and visitors from across the country and around the world through exhibitions, collections, publications and school and public
programs. Susan Henshaw Jones, Ronay Menschel Director and James G. Dinan, Chair.

                                         ABOUT THE NATIONAL JEWELRY INSTITUTE / www.nationaljewelryinstitute,org
THE NATIONAL JEWELRY INSTITUTE (NJI) was formed in 2002 as a not-for-profit institute whose mission is to preserve, research and exhibit fine jewelry. The National Jewelry Institute has staged over 15
exhibition in major cities around the world. Board: H. Aaron, A.Chervin, R. Esmerian, C. Fischer, C. Forbes, A. Hawkins C. Miller, and J. Price. Young Notables Council President: H. Heard.

				
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