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					WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2011                                                                                 KLMNO                                                EZ EE                              Restaurants                             E3

                                                            TOM SIETSEMA                                                                                                                     GOOD TO GO
                                                                   First Bite

                                   A place to bring your grandmother
B
       ethesda’s latest “New
       York” delicatessen could
       use an interior decorator,
or at least someone who knows
that an echt deli should be
outfitted with a more abundant
display case and fewer dishes
bundled in plastic wrap. Images
of W.C. Fields and the Beatles on
the wall are head-scratchers,
too.
   Oh, yeah: Where are the
smells of meat and fat? Those
signatures of a Big Apple deli
are absent in the air at the 85-
seat Bubby’s, which opened in a
former nightclub space in
February, three months after
the launch of the Uptown Deli
around the corner.
   The younger joint does have
its enticements. The pickles that
land on the table once you sit
down reveal pleasant crunch                                                                                               Chicken soup with a matzoh
and sourness, and the hot                                                                                                 ball and a hot pastrami on rye,
pastrami sandwich (best eaten                                                                                             served with coleslaw and a
on rye, of course, with a side of                                                                                         crisp sour pickle.
fresh-tasting coleslaw) fits in
lots of thinly shaved and well-                                                                                           Island Louie, the eatery he ran                                             MARTHA THOMAS FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
seasoned meat. A New York deli                                                                                            in Rockville from 1998 to 2005.)
might employ impatient cranks                                                                                                “Bubby” is Yiddish for                     The food at Doner Bistro is assembled in the 1946
as servers; this place has hired                                                                                          “grandmother,” and the                        aluminum Mighty Midget, made of old aircraft parts.
nothing but smiles.                                                                                                       restaurateur pays tribute to his
   At lunch, a bowl of soup and a                                                                                         bubby in a collection of sepia-
half-sandwich go for just under                                                                                           tone photographs on the wall. “I
$11. Bubby’s chicken soup
                                                                          PHOTOS BY JUANA ARIAS FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
                                                                                                                          get to see her every day,” says       Doner Bistro in Leesburg
would benefit from more                                                                                                   Manas, who has been
poultry flavor, and fresh dill       Owner Jeff “Louie” Manas and server Kitty Champlin at Bubby’s,                       encouraging customers to bring           When Timo Winkel presented              The prep work is done in a
would be better than dried, but      the second deli to open recently in downtown Bethesda.                               in prints of their own                a business plan to the American         kitchen elsewhere, but the simple
I appreciate the contributions of                                                                                         grandmothers.                         Embassy in Frankfurt as part of         menu items are cooked and as-
gently cooked carrots and celery                                                                                             The invitation comes with a        his visa application, his appeal        sembled in the 6-by-8-foot
in the strapping bowl. Avoid the        There’s house-made                  salmon brushed with lemon and                 carrot: “Free dinner,” promises       reached the right person. “The          Mighty Midget. There’s the doner,
woefully salty tongue sandwich,      applesauce for the thick potato        balsamic vinegar.                             the man behind the counter.           consul said that every time he          of course ($7.45), in a crispy bread
however, and the chopped liver,      latkes, which would be more               The loud voice at the cash                             sietsemat@washpost.com    goes back home, he misses the           pocket, grilled panino-style. The
which is almost as much              appealing if they were crisp           register belongs to Jeff “Louie”                                                    German doner,” says Winkel,             Belgian-style hand-cut fries are
chopped egg as liver and even        rather than soft.                      Manas, the deli’s genial owner                4866 Cordell Ave., Bethesda.          whose Doner Bistro in Leesburg          sprinkled with “pomme salt,” a
less impressive for its                 Dinner, served after 4 p.m.,        and a 35-year veteran of the                  301-941-1404. bubbysnydeli.com.       began as a food truck in 2006.          paprika-tinted seasoning; they
accompanying dry baguette            finds bigger meals: roast              restaurant business. (His                     Sandwiches, $6.95 to $11.50;             Made from seasoned meat              can be stuffed into the doner box
slices.                              chicken, stuffed cabbage and           nickname comes from Long                      dinner entrees, $12.95 to $19.95.     sliced from a rotisserie cone, don-     ($6.95) with shaved meat and
                                                                                                                                                                er kebab is piled inside a flat-        tzatziki, or slathered with curry-
                                                                                                                                                                bread pocket with chopped salad         flavored ketchup alongside beef
                                                                    DISH                                                                                        and tzatziki sauce. The Middle          or pork sausage on the curry-
                                                                                                                                                                Eastern staple was brought to           wurst plate ($5.95, plus $1.95 for
                                                                                                                                                                Berlin in the 1970s by a Turkish        fries).
  Excerpted from the Going Out       another $6,400 to a certificate        and is general manager at Mrs.                Gioldasis says, but they closed       entrepreneur in Berlin, Winkel             There’s also falafel ($6.95),
Gurus blog, washingtonpost.          holder who had bought the              K’s Toll House, both in Silver                up shop instead.                      says, to compete with the               bratwurst ($5.45) and veal schnit-
com/goingoutgurus:                   landlord’s 2009 tax lien. But          Spring — Gioldasis said he                       Clark said she can’t pay the       bratwurst that Germans liked to         zel ($7.45), all served sandwich-
                                     when contacted last week for           carried Clark and Smith longer                money, then added via e-mail:         eat on the go. These days, the          style or on a plate with fries
   The announcement came             comment, Gioldasis said there          than many landlords would                     “Everyone gets behind in their        shawarma-like sandwich is as            ($1.50). Although many of the
first on Facebook, brief and         was a simple reason for his tax        have.                                         rent or asks the landlord to          ubiquitous in Germany as the            menu items might not seem a
startling: The General Store,        woes: Clark and General Store             But early this month, he and               accept less for a while. That’s       hamburger is in the United              great departure from the fare at
chef Gillian Clark’s homey           co-owner Robin Smith owed              his attorney, Darrel Longest,                 how we all survive in slow times      States.                                 your local Turkish carryout, Win-
restaurant in Silver Spring, was     him back rent dating to April          filed suit in Montgomery                      and how we both coexist to               In 2008, Winkel, 30, and his         kel swears by their particular
closed. “The landlord has not        2010.                                  County District Court for back                make money. Spiro is a bully          (now) wife and business partner,        authenticity. The meat and tzatzi-
paid his back taxes and the             Gioldasis said he couldn’t pay      rent, late fees and attorney                  and uses the courts to get his        Nicole, acquired the Mighty             ki are seasoned the German way:
county is taking back the            the taxes because those county         costs. They are seeking                       way. He has never wanted to           Midget Kitchen, a riveted alumi-        milder, though more garlicky.
building,” read the note on the      fees, along with the mortgage          $160,125.                                     work with us throughout this          num structure the size of an            And currywurst is so common in
General Store’s page on the          and insurance, are tied into the          On March 23, Judge William                 ordeal.”                              ice-fishing shack, built by a Cali-     his home country that a museum
social network site.                 monthly rent paid by Clark and         Simmons ruled in the landlord’s                  Clark says the General Store’s     fornia company in 1946 from left-       honoring the dish opened in Ber-
   The full story is more            Smith. “So I have to come up           favor. Clark and Smith are on                 closing will not affect the other     over fighter plane parts. The           lin two years ago.
complicated than that. Yes,          with the money myself, and I           the hook for the full amount.                 restaurants that she and Smith        shiny shack had served as a ham-           The Winkels hope to open a
landlord Spiro Gioldasis owed        don’t have it,” he said.               The General Store owners had                  plan to open, including the           burger and hot dog stand in Lees-       location in Arlington this year,
the county back taxes of more           As a fellow restaurateur — he       until yesterday to come up with               Kitchen on K Street in NoMa.          burg until 1994. The couple refur-      but they won’t be able to replicate
than $5,000 for 2010 and owed        owns Pacci’s Neapolitan Pizzeria       the money to remain open,                                  carmant@washpost.com     bished the kitchen and moved it         the Mighty Midget. “That’s one of
                                                                                                                                                                to the deck of a building across        a kind,” Winkel says.
                                                                                                                                                                from the town’s Market Station                              — Martha Thomas
                                                                                                                                                                complex. There’s a counter in-
                                                                                                                                                                doors for ordering (including a          Doner Bistro 202 Harrison St. SE,

A taste of modernism                                                                                                                                            selection of 20 German beers),
                                                                                                                                                                but most of the action takes place
                                                                                                                                                                                                        Leesburg. 703-779-7880.
                                                                                                                                                                                                        donerbistro.com. Hours: Mondays
                                                                                                                                                                on the deck, which Winkel calls         through Fridays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.;
   gastronomer from E1               The favorite food of Italians,                                                                                             the beer garden and which has           Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 11
                                     Marinetti claimed, made them                                                                                               seating for 50.                         p.m.
                                     lazy, tradition-bound and paci-
sie, questioned the value of his-    fist. He was met with massive

                                                                                                                                                                             Exclusive Invitation from PostPoints:
tory and called for a new aesthet-   protests. Petitions were signed.
ic world order in which the
boundaries between art and life
                                     Housewives took to the streets.
                                     An enraged nationalistic jour-
                                                                                                                                                                       An
would no longer exist.               nalist even challenged Marinetti
   Yet they never thought to in-     to a duel. Marinetti accepted and



                                                                                                                                                                                                              (and eat with )
clude food — or its finer cousin,    — as happened so often in his
gastronomy — in the movement.        colorful career — lost. He was
In fact, according to tech vision-   gravely injured.
ary and cookbook author Na-             Marinetti’s many stunts made
than Myhrvold, the inventive         him famous, but they are also                                                                                                     t
playfulness of such 21st-century
chefs as Ferran Adria, Heston
                                     why he was seldom taken seri-
                                     ously. Today he is an obscure
                                                                                                                                                                       h
Blumenthal and Grant Achatz          figure, even in Italy. But when I                                                        HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES              E
marks the first time the creative    read “Futurist Cookbook,” I have                Filippo Tommaso Marinetti (1876-1944) was the
force of modernism has entered       little doubt he was on to some-                 colorful founder of the futurist movement in Italy.                           Join PostPoints in a launch
the kitchen and dining room.         thing. Many of his ideas have                                                                                                 party/tasting event/signing for
That’s one of the reasons Myhr-      since become commonplace. His          Bulli, I was once served a dish               Nothing was as it should be. We          the exciting new book by
vold says he named his newly         proposal to make a cuisine that        consisting of two perfectly sim-              arranged futurist dinners where          Joe Yonan, author and
published tome “Modernist Cui-       consisted of lighter sauces, bite-     ple raw razor clams, one real and             we cooked impossible dishes              award-winning Washington Post
sine.”                               size dishes and “a consistent          one faux. Playing with the diner’s            and broke many rules — and               food editor! Enjoy a cooking
   I beg to differ. There has been   lightening of weight and reduc-        expectations is also one of the               some furniture, too. Had there           demonstration by Joe himself as
at least one serious — and nearly    tion of volume of food-stuffs” is      ideas behind my futurist-in-                  been goldfish around, I am sure          he prepares one of the delicious
fatal — attempt to introduce         pretty uncontroversial, even           spired recipe for an orange-col-              they would have become a part
                                                                                                                                                                   recipes included in his book,
what we might term “modern-          though it sounded strange at the       ored, orange-smelling dish that               of the setup.
                                                                                                                                                                   followed by a book-signing and
ism” to cooking. The problem is,     time.                                  doesn’t actually contain orange                  But reading him today, I am
it wasn’t very successful. But had      Other ideas have an uncanny         (see recipe, Page E6).                        just as intrigued. His ideas seem        your chance to meet the author.
the world listened to the lone,      similarity to what is happening           When I talked with Myhrvold,               to be more than mere pranks,             hurry! Seating is limited for
mad voice of Marinetti, the way      at the frontline of creative cui-      the ideologue of the 21st-century             and I find it interesting to see         the 5:30 tasting.
we eat might have changed dra-       sine today. A recurring theme in       modernists, in connection with                how many of them have been
matically, and today’s avant-        Marinetti’s work, for instance, is     the launch of “Modernist Cui-                 adopted.
garde cooks would be consid-         the participation of all senses        sine,” he expressed many of the                  Perhaps the biggest problem               Wednesday, April 6
ered derriere-garde traditional-     while dining, as illustrated by “A     same grievances with the con-                 with Marinetti was that he was               The Washington Post
ists at best.                        Tactile Dinner Party.” In another      servatism of Italian cuisine that             so alone in his quest for a new              1150 15th Street, NW
   Marinetti was the leader of       futurist meal idea, a house is         Marinetti did more than 80 years              cuisine. In his group there were             Washington D.C.
the Italian futurists, a poet and    built on a tongue of land be-          ago. “I have never quite under-               other eccentric poets and artists,
demagogue closely associated
with the ruling fascists but often
                                     tween ocean and lake, and the
                                     smells from the sea, the lake and
                                                                            stood why Italians keep talking
                                                                            about their grandmothers all the
                                                                                                                          but the movement did not have
                                                                                                                          any real cooks. And while I re-
                                                                                                                                                                       5:30 p.m.
                                                                                                                                                                       Private cooking demonstration & tasting with
in conflict with them. (He criti-    a nearby barn all contribute to        time,” he said. “When someone                 main amused by him, I wish that
                                                                                                                                                                       Joe Yonan. LIMITED SEATING! Tickets must be purchased
cized them for being too tradi-      the experience. Several other          says that they cook just like their           his — and his companions’ —
tional and for their anti-Semi-      meals involve scent or music.          grandmother did, does that                    recipes were a little more accom-            in advance. Tickets $25 — Price includes a signed copy of
tism.) He is best remembered for     When Blumenthal at the Fat             mean that no one had a creative               plished, that the food tasted bet-           Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One.
his many manifestos calling for a    Duck asks a diner to don head-         thought in two generations?”                  ter. The futurists had no lack of
break with the past. One of his      phones and listen to the sound of         But Myhrvold denied that                   ideas, but there was no Picasso              7:00 p.m.
most memorable and controver-        the sea while eating an oyster, he     Marinetti was truly an early                  or Blumenthal to translate them              Meet Joe Yonan, book signing. FREE. His book will be
sial was the “Manifesto Against      clearly has entered some of the        modernist, describing his proj-               into something that was not just             available for purchase at a discount.
Past-Loving Venice,” wherein he      same territory.                        ect as a prank above all else. “To            interesting but also wonderful.
suggested that the “small, stink-
ing canals” of Venice be “filled
                                        Similarly, Marinetti’s chapter
                                     “Invitation to Chemistry” has
                                                                            me, what is going on in cooking
                                                                            today is art at a very high level,”
                                                                                                                             The difference between the
                                                                                                                          great modernists and Marinetti               » Purchase tickets & RSVP at
with the rubble of the past” and     been answered by today’s mod-          Myhrvold said. “What Marinetti                is that he saw the future but                    washingtonpost.com/postfun
paved over and that it be rebuilt    ernist cooks, who are both laud-       and his gang were doing is more               couldn’t manage to make it hap-
as a modern militarized and          ed and criticized for being tech-      like college kids who have a wild             pen. His inability to render his             Sponsored in part
industrialized city.                 nology-focused and for using           party and eat all the goldfish.               ideas appetizing makes him a                 by our valued
   His venture into gastronomy       texture- and flavor-altering           They do it to shock. That’s it.“              minor modernist at best, and                 PostPoints partner:
started in 1926, when in another     chemical compounds in their               Indeed, I came across Mari-                who knows? It might even have
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              S094 2x8




manifesto he called for a ban on     food. Playing with the shape and       netti in my university days, and I            postponed culinary modernism
pasta, describing it as “an absurd   the appearance of the food is          was fascinated by the wildness of             for nearly 80 years.
Italian gastronomic religion.”       pretty commonplace today. At El        his ideas and the fun he had.                                  food@washpost.com

				
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