27 by wuyunyi


									                                                                                                                                                                                                                               ARAB TIMES, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2011


                                                                                                 ‘Dining is still the most affordable luxury’

French chef Boulud expands into casual cuisine
TORONTO, March 29, (RTRS):                      it, such as DBGB, for example, where             “Of course, the restaurant business      tant in life than the endless pursuit of       4)                                              colander and run under cold water to
America’s preeminent French chef                it was about bangers and beers, being a       or the hotel business or the luxury         perfection.”                                      1/2 pound fiddlehead ferns,                  cool. Make a small incision in the skin
Daniel Boulud says luxury is alive and          very casual brasserie with very afford-       business in hospitality is not something       Q: Are there are new foods or ingre-        cleaned and trimmed                             of the favas with your thumbnail and
well and though he’s expanding into             able food but very interesting home-          you wear and it’s not something you         dients you’re obsessed with at the                1 cup shelled fresh fava beans               pop out the beans. Discard the skins.
more accessible food, he is uncompro-           made program ...                              show off with it, you just take it for      moment?                                        (about 1 1/2 pounds with pods)                     Centre a rack in the oven and pre-
mising about his take on casual dining.            “I worked in the south of France for       your soul and you take it for yourself.”       A: “We just discovered putting sor-            2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive             heat the oven to 375 degrees
  The three-star Michelin mastermind            three years and I never forgot my time           Q: What do you say about the back-       rel leaves to seep into olive oil ... by       oil                                             Fahrenheit.
behind an empire that includes a dozen          there from eating a pain bagnat on the        lash against foodies and the self-indul-    keeping the virtue of the taste and yet           One 2 1/2- to 3-pound free-range                Warm the olive oil in a large cast-
restaurants and catering company in             beach to enjoying the sort of casual          gence they stand for?                       having very fresh colour with it which         guinea hen, cut into eight pieces               iron pot or roasting pan over high heat.
New York, Florida, London, Beijing              approach to Mediterranean cuisine ...            A: “I think in France for example,       is difficult. And the wild salmon is              Salt and freshly ground pepper               Season the hen with salt and pepper.
and Singapore is set to open two new            not by virtue of simplicity. For me to        we can say whatever we want about           starting. Salmon and sorrel is nothing            1/2 pound morel mushrooms,                   When the oil is hot, slip in the pieces,
Manhattan venues in May — a                     go casual is not to go simple. To me it       the French, but going out and dining is     new. Troisgros in Roanne created that          stemmed, washed twice, and                      skin side down, and sear until golden
Mediterranean grill and adjacent cafe           is to be able to bring back the art of        more about the intellectual moment to       recipe 45 years ago ... but to me every        drained                                         brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn the pieces
and market.                                     tradition and the soul of French food         share with the people you dine with         spring we play with sorrel and salmon             1/2 pound new potatoes,                      over and add the morels, potatoes, gar-
  Boulud, 56, who closed his two                and my interpretation of that.”               than trying to figure out what the chef     and every spring we come up with               scrubbed and halved                             lic, shallots, bay leaf, thyme, and but-
Vancouver restaurants earlier this                 Q: Given the rise of global food           did with that little piece of salmon or     some new ideas applying the two                   8 cloves garlic, unpeeled                    ter, and season with salt and pepper.
month, said he is looking closely at a          prices and popularity of more casual          lobster and all that. It’s more about the   together.”                                        4 shallots, halved, or 8 spring              Cook, tossing, for 5 minutes. Slide the
new project in Toronto, and hoped to            and affordable restaurants since the          conversations, it’s more about the priv-       Q: What food fads are you sick of?          onions, trimmed                                 pan into the oven and roast the hen for
confirm it soon.                                recession, what do you think the future       ilege to share a moment with your              A: “At (his New York restaurant)               1 bay leaf                                   25 to 30 minutes until the juices run
  He spoke to Reuters from New York             is like for fine dining?                      friends and not be so obsessed with         Daniel, 18 years ago we were doing a              1 sprig thyme, leaves only,                  clear when the hen is pierced.
about his inspirations, the backlash               A: “I think dining is still the most       everything going into the plate and         whole braised pork belly ... talk about        chopped                                            Transfer the hen and the vegetables
against self-satisfied foodies and the          affordable luxury of all because when         around it ... I think luxury and pamper-    a fad. If there’s one piece of meat in the        2 tablespoons unsalted butter                to a large bowl and keep warm. Place
most tiresome culinary craze.                   you see that a woman spends $10,000           ing and refinement and rarity in what       world that became overused and over-              1 cup unsalted beef stock or low-            the pan over high heat on the stove;
  Question: What was some of the                on a pair of shoes, on Jimmy Choo or          you have stimulate your intellect. I        rated and still delicious and captured         sodium beef broth                               add the beef stock and reduce the liq-
                                                                                                                                          by every sort of chef, it’s the pork
inspiration behind your new restaurant          (Christian) Louboutin, and a nice bag         take so much pleasure at seeing cus-        belly.”                                           Bring a large saucepan of water to a         uid by half. Return the hen and vegeta-
Boulud Sud and cafe/market Epicerie             on average is maybe a couple thousand         tomers who are happy, happy with                                                           boil over high heat. Add the fiddlehead         bles to the pan and toss until heated
Boulud?                                         and they’re selling them like there’s no      what they eat but happy with their                           Recipe                        ferns and cook for 6 to 7 minutes. Add          through, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with
  Answer: “I had a lot of fun creating          tomorrow ... I think people appreciate        friends and sharing a great moment            Guinea hen casserole with morels,            the fava beans and cook for 3 to 4 min-         the chives and serve family-style from
some restaurants with a casual note to          quality.                                      together and I think that is more impor-    fava beans and fiddlehead ferns (serves        utes more. Drain the vegetables into a          the pan.


         Continued from Page 26
   Reviews and news on The Al-Sabah

  April 29
Indian Carnival – 2011: Hot Stepper,
the entertainment wing of Creative Indians
Association announces their forthcoming
event “Indian Carnival – 2011” on April
29, 2011, at the Kuwait Entertainment City,
Doha, from 2 pm, till 11 pm. The day will
offer tons of free rides, games, discount
stalls, mouth watering Indian food stalls,
dance performances, music, and a whole
lot more of entertainment. The highlight of
the carnival would be performances by
singers invited from India and performing
on the live band for the first time for the
carnival. The Hot Stepper group invites
sponsors to be part of this Grand Indian
Carnival. Call 22455818. For dance per-
formances email at dance@hot-
stepper.com. Visit and register on our web-
site www.hot-stepper.com for timely
updates on the event.

  April 30
Junior baking classes at TIES:
Dear mothers, we invite your daughter to
our new baking classes, so that they can
give you a hand in preparing sweets for
   From April 30 - May 21, 2011 between
10 am - 12 pm.
   Age 6 years to 12 years (Girls only)
   Please apply now and reserve a seat.
   Certificates and presents will be distrib-
uted after completion of the course!
   For more information please contact us
on 2523105/6 or 97228860 or visit our
website www.tiescenter.net

  May 5
BAIA presents ‘Lion King’: BAIA is
delighted to announce its plans for inviting
Nicholas Norman cast, member of The
Lion King (London), to Kuwait to direct
The Lion King weekend workshop of
Dance, Music and Acting Boot Camp for
boys and girls aged 12 and above.
   The British Academy of International         This March 24, 2011 photo shows French Chef Paul Bocuse as he poses in the kitchen of his famed Michelin three-star restaurant L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges in Collonges-au-Mont-d’or, central France.
Arts (BAIA) is an arts training center and      Bocuse, the icon of French cuisine whom many credit with transforming the role of chef from invisible artist to celebrity, will be proclaimed Chef of the Century by the Culinary Institute of America on March
academy that provides high quality training                                                                                                      30. (AP)
in: Theatre, Speech, Dance Cuisine, Art
and Design, and Music; as well as UK
accredited examinations in Theatre and                                                                         Russia aims to boost caviar exports with fish farms
Speech provided by The London Academy
of Music and Dramatic Art (LAMDA);
Dance provided by The Royal Academy of
Dance (RAD), Imperial Society of
Teachers of Dance (ISTD) and The British
Ballet Organisation (BBO); Music prepara-
tory programmes for examinations provid-
                                                Top chef with huge legacy credits staff, diners
ed by The Associated Board of the Royal         COLLONGES-au-MONT d’OR, France,               dish to be served.                          line between man and brand.                    out.                                            kitchen.
Schools of Music (ABRSM). BAIA also             March 29, (Agencies): Seven men in               “We always have to pay attention,” he       Food sociologist Claude Fischler says           An innovator anchored in tradition,            “elBulli is always full, so he’s right,”
presents productions and organises themed       white toques and long aprons bend to          said during an interview last week.         that, beyond the culinary delights turned      Bocuse sleeps in the room where he was          Bocuse says of the restaurant in
weekends.                                       their tasks, one scooping hunks of butter        His soupe au truffles noires, crowned    out by Bocuse, his real distinction was        born on the upper floors of his award-          Catalonia, Spain, and its chef, Ferran
   The Lion King production will take           into a saucepan simmering on a huge           with a pastry shell, is a splendor to the   turning the chef, once all but a scullery      winning restaurant, once owned by the           Adria, commonly considered a creator of
place on May 5 and 6. BAIA would like to        stove, another flicking grains of the         eyes. The black truffle soup was created    worker never credited for his culinary         family of his mother. “But I changed the        modernist cuisine, but who insists he is
thank John Price for his generous individ-      ground French red pepper piment               in 1975 for then-President Valery           achievements, first into a boss, then a        sheets,” he adds in his characteristic jok-     “merely a cook.”
ual sponsorship. Should you require more        d’Espelette from a spoon onto a pyramid       Giscard d’Estaing. But, “Me, I like a       star.                                          ing style.                                         “It’s not my cuisine, but I have lots of
information about the workshop and tickets      of crayfish, a third sprinkles parsley with   simple cuisine,” Bocuse says. “What I                      Simplicity                          The master chef concocts his classic        admiration for him because he brought
please contact us on 25612087 and               his fingers.                                  prefer is perhaps a good spit-roasted          Yet the visitor is struck by the simplic-   culinary fare with help from a two-             something,” said Bocuse.
60052087. You will also find information           “Seventeen minutes,” one cries out.        chicken from Bresse,” the eastern town      ity of Bocuse, the man — and the para-         hectare (nearly 5-acre) garden out back
on our website www.baia.com.kw                                                                whose fowl are considered the best in
                                                “A little pepper,” says another. “Did you                                                 doxes that imbue him and his life.             and another elsewhere in town.
   The British Academy of International                                                       France.                                                                                        “The cuisine of today is complicated,”      GAMZYUKI, Russia: Once the world’s
Arts is a division of British International     taste the brioche?” asks “Monsieur                                                           Fragile with age and illness, Bocuse
                                                Paul.”                                           Scores of top chefs from around the      comes to life once he dons his cylindrical     he said. “Firstly, it’s complicated to have     top exporter of black caviar, Russia is
WLL.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     building fish farms to harvest the gour-
                                                   It is minutes before the lunch hour in     world saluted Bocuse with an 85th birth-    chef’s hat — what he calls his “disguise”      good suppliers. I think that finding the
                                                the heart of the temple of French gas-        day fete this year in Lyon, with a meal     — a humble figure who suddenly fills           best, the best butcher, the best fish mon-      met delicacy as it aims to bring its stur-
                                Art             tronomy, the kitchen of Paul Bocuse. The      prepared at City Hall, a testament to his   the shoes of his larger-than-life image,       ger, the best vegetable vendor, that’s          geon stocks back from the brink.
                                                final touches of another three-star meal      impact on the profession, and his legacy    his likeness portrayed in murals through-      important,” he said.                               In Gamzyuki, a tiny village in the
Children’s Art Workshop: This month                                                                                                                                                                                                      Kaluga region, around 200 kms (125
participants in the Children’s Art Workshop     are executed with military precision.         as one of the first chefs to straddle the   out the red and green auberge, inside and          Bocuse disparages the notion that he
will be learning about architecture and how        Bocuse, whose Auberge du Pont de                                                                                                      helped develop the lighter fare of “nou-        miles) south of Moscow, a fish farm has
Islamic art and culture have influenced         Collonges just outside Lyon has main-                                                                                                    velle cuisine.”                                 the ambitious goal of producing 16 tons
building design and decoration. The chil-       tained its three stars in the Michelin                                                                                                       “They always talk of nouvelle cuisine,      of the sturgeon eggs per year by 2014.
dren will start from the very basic (shapes     Guide for 46 years, credits a deceptively                                                                                                but for me each generation had a nou-              Opened three years ago, it is one of
in buildings) and progress to more complex      simple recipe for that success — good                                                                                                    velle cuisine,” he said, including              dozens of sturgeon farms that have
ideas related to function as well as design.    produce fresh from the garden, a superb                                                                                                  Georges Auguste Escoffier, who gave             opened in Russia recently, aiming to
At the end of the month, they will be visit-    kitchen staff and happy diners.                                                                                                          classic French cuisine a world profile,         rebuild the nation’s reputation as the
ing the Arab Organizations Headquarters                                                                                                                                                  and whose style remains the inspiration         world’s premium exporter of caviar.
Building (AKA Arab Fund Building),                             Celebrity                                                                                                                 at Bocuse’s table.                                 In a brightly-lit hangar, thousands of
which features examples inspired by tradi-         “It’s the client who runs the house,”                                                                                                     Fischler, the sociologist, agrees that      the distinctive fish with pointed snouts
tional Islamic art and architecture.            says Bocuse, a man credited with trans-                                                                                                  Bocuse incorporates the values found in         and whisker-like barbels swirl around in
   For more information on the Children’s       forming the role of chef from invisible                                                                                                  nouvelles cuisine, “use of the best prod-       dozens of vast pools, tended by white-
Art Workshop or to register your child,         artist to celebrity. Yet “Monsieur Paul,”                                                                                                ucts in an optimal way,” while remaining        coated workers.
email americanikids@darmuseum.org.kw            as he is known, praises everyone but                                                                                                                                                        Several times a month, the workers net
              ❑       ❑       ❑                 himself for his accomplishments. And he                                                                                                      “I always say that I make an identifi-      the fish and extract their eggs through a
DAI Children’s workshop: Dar Al-                bows to Lady Luck.                                                                                                                       able cuisine with bones or fish bones,”         careful incision in a technique that does
Athar Al-Islamiyyah has an exciting                This week, the credit is returned when                                                                                                Bocuse said. “Today, there are lots of          not kill the long-lived fish — unlike
                                                he is proclaimed Chef of the Century by                                                                                                  kinds of cuisine. I’m not against them. If      those caught in the wild, which are sim-
          Continued on Page 28                  the Culinary Institute of America during                                                                                                 the restaurant works, if it’s full of clients   ply slashed open.
                                                a reception in New York.                                                                                                                 ... whatever the cuisine, he (the chef) is         Such unsustainable fishing grew ram-
                                                   Despite a globe-spanning empire of                                                                                                    right.”                                         pantly after the fall of the Soviet Union
                                                upscale eateries, Bocuse doesn’t sit on       A worker extracts caviar from a sturgeon at a fish farm, outside the Russian town              That goes, too, for modernist cuisine,      and led to stocks falling so low that
                                                his laurels. The icon of French cuisine is    of Kaluga, some 180 kms from Moscow on March 15. Once the world’s top                      a popular and often deconstructive              Russia nine years ago introduced a mora-
                                                now 85 and retired, but he still keeps an     exporter of black caviar, Russia is building fish farms to harvest the gourmet deli        approach to cooking that brings science         torium on commercial fishing of stur-
                                                eye on the kitchen and every day eats a           cacy as it aims to bring its sturgeon stocks back from the brink. (AFP)                and even laboratory equipment into the          geon in the Caspian Sea.

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