ARAB TIMES, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2011 27 ‘Dining is still the most affordable luxury’ French chef Boulud expands into casual cuisine TORONTO, March 29, (RTRS): it, such as DBGB, for example, where “Of course, the restaurant business tant in life than the endless pursuit of 4) colander and run under cold water to America’s preeminent French chef it was about bangers and beers, being a or the hotel business or the luxury perfection.” 1/2 pound fiddlehead ferns, cool. Make a small incision in the skin Daniel Boulud says luxury is alive and very casual brasserie with very afford- business in hospitality is not something Q: Are there are new foods or ingre- cleaned and trimmed of the favas with your thumbnail and well and though he’s expanding into able food but very interesting home- you wear and it’s not something you dients you’re obsessed with at the 1 cup shelled fresh fava beans pop out the beans. Discard the skins. more accessible food, he is uncompro- made program ... show off with it, you just take it for moment? (about 1 1/2 pounds with pods) Centre a rack in the oven and pre- mising about his take on casual dining. “I worked in the south of France for your soul and you take it for yourself.” A: “We just discovered putting sor- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive heat the oven to 375 degrees The three-star Michelin mastermind three years and I never forgot my time Q: What do you say about the back- rel leaves to seep into olive oil ... by oil Fahrenheit. behind an empire that includes a dozen there from eating a pain bagnat on the lash against foodies and the self-indul- keeping the virtue of the taste and yet One 2 1/2- to 3-pound free-range Warm the olive oil in a large cast- restaurants and catering company in beach to enjoying the sort of casual gence they stand for? having very fresh colour with it which guinea hen, cut into eight pieces iron pot or roasting pan over high heat. New York, Florida, London, Beijing approach to Mediterranean cuisine ... A: “I think in France for example, is difficult. And the wild salmon is Salt and freshly ground pepper Season the hen with salt and pepper. and Singapore is set to open two new not by virtue of simplicity. For me to we can say whatever we want about starting. Salmon and sorrel is nothing 1/2 pound morel mushrooms, When the oil is hot, slip in the pieces, Manhattan venues in May — a go casual is not to go simple. To me it the French, but going out and dining is new. Troisgros in Roanne created that stemmed, washed twice, and skin side down, and sear until golden Mediterranean grill and adjacent cafe is to be able to bring back the art of more about the intellectual moment to recipe 45 years ago ... but to me every drained brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn the pieces and market. tradition and the soul of French food share with the people you dine with spring we play with sorrel and salmon 1/2 pound new potatoes, over and add the morels, potatoes, gar- Boulud, 56, who closed his two and my interpretation of that.” than trying to figure out what the chef and every spring we come up with scrubbed and halved lic, shallots, bay leaf, thyme, and but- Vancouver restaurants earlier this Q: Given the rise of global food did with that little piece of salmon or some new ideas applying the two 8 cloves garlic, unpeeled ter, and season with salt and pepper. month, said he is looking closely at a prices and popularity of more casual lobster and all that. It’s more about the together.” 4 shallots, halved, or 8 spring Cook, tossing, for 5 minutes. Slide the new project in Toronto, and hoped to and affordable restaurants since the conversations, it’s more about the priv- Q: What food fads are you sick of? onions, trimmed pan into the oven and roast the hen for confirm it soon. recession, what do you think the future ilege to share a moment with your A: “At (his New York restaurant) 1 bay leaf 25 to 30 minutes until the juices run He spoke to Reuters from New York is like for fine dining? friends and not be so obsessed with Daniel, 18 years ago we were doing a 1 sprig thyme, leaves only, clear when the hen is pierced. about his inspirations, the backlash A: “I think dining is still the most everything going into the plate and whole braised pork belly ... talk about chopped Transfer the hen and the vegetables against self-satisfied foodies and the affordable luxury of all because when around it ... I think luxury and pamper- a fad. If there’s one piece of meat in the 2 tablespoons unsalted butter to a large bowl and keep warm. Place most tiresome culinary craze. you see that a woman spends $10,000 ing and refinement and rarity in what world that became overused and over- 1 cup unsalted beef stock or low- the pan over high heat on the stove; Question: What was some of the on a pair of shoes, on Jimmy Choo or you have stimulate your intellect. I rated and still delicious and captured sodium beef broth add the beef stock and reduce the liq- by every sort of chef, it’s the pork inspiration behind your new restaurant (Christian) Louboutin, and a nice bag take so much pleasure at seeing cus- belly.” Bring a large saucepan of water to a uid by half. Return the hen and vegeta- Boulud Sud and cafe/market Epicerie on average is maybe a couple thousand tomers who are happy, happy with boil over high heat. Add the fiddlehead bles to the pan and toss until heated Boulud? and they’re selling them like there’s no what they eat but happy with their Recipe ferns and cook for 6 to 7 minutes. Add through, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with Answer: “I had a lot of fun creating tomorrow ... I think people appreciate friends and sharing a great moment Guinea hen casserole with morels, the fava beans and cook for 3 to 4 min- the chives and serve family-style from some restaurants with a casual note to quality. together and I think that is more impor- fava beans and fiddlehead ferns (serves utes more. Drain the vegetables into a the pan. Food click Latest Continued from Page 26 Reviews and news on The Al-Sabah Collection: http://www.daikuwait.blogspot.com/ April 29 Indian Carnival – 2011: Hot Stepper, the entertainment wing of Creative Indians Association announces their forthcoming event “Indian Carnival – 2011” on April 29, 2011, at the Kuwait Entertainment City, Doha, from 2 pm, till 11 pm. The day will offer tons of free rides, games, discount stalls, mouth watering Indian food stalls, dance performances, music, and a whole lot more of entertainment. The highlight of the carnival would be performances by singers invited from India and performing on the live band for the first time for the carnival. The Hot Stepper group invites sponsors to be part of this Grand Indian Carnival. Call 22455818. For dance per- formances email at dance@hot- stepper.com. Visit and register on our web- site www.hot-stepper.com for timely updates on the event. April 30 Junior baking classes at TIES: Dear mothers, we invite your daughter to our new baking classes, so that they can give you a hand in preparing sweets for desert. From April 30 - May 21, 2011 between 10 am - 12 pm. Age 6 years to 12 years (Girls only) Please apply now and reserve a seat. Certificates and presents will be distrib- uted after completion of the course! For more information please contact us on 2523105/6 or 97228860 or visit our website www.tiescenter.net May 5 BAIA presents ‘Lion King’: BAIA is delighted to announce its plans for inviting Nicholas Norman cast, member of The Lion King (London), to Kuwait to direct The Lion King weekend workshop of Dance, Music and Acting Boot Camp for boys and girls aged 12 and above. The British Academy of International This March 24, 2011 photo shows French Chef Paul Bocuse as he poses in the kitchen of his famed Michelin three-star restaurant L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges in Collonges-au-Mont-d’or, central France. Arts (BAIA) is an arts training center and Bocuse, the icon of French cuisine whom many credit with transforming the role of chef from invisible artist to celebrity, will be proclaimed Chef of the Century by the Culinary Institute of America on March academy that provides high quality training 30. (AP) in: Theatre, Speech, Dance Cuisine, Art and Design, and Music; as well as UK accredited examinations in Theatre and Russia aims to boost caviar exports with fish farms Speech provided by The London Academy of Music and Dramatic Art (LAMDA); Dance provided by The Royal Academy of Dance (RAD), Imperial Society of Teachers of Dance (ISTD) and The British Ballet Organisation (BBO); Music prepara- tory programmes for examinations provid- Top chef with huge legacy credits staff, diners ed by The Associated Board of the Royal COLLONGES-au-MONT d’OR, France, dish to be served. line between man and brand. out. kitchen. Schools of Music (ABRSM). BAIA also March 29, (Agencies): Seven men in “We always have to pay attention,” he Food sociologist Claude Fischler says An innovator anchored in tradition, “elBulli is always full, so he’s right,” presents productions and organises themed white toques and long aprons bend to said during an interview last week. that, beyond the culinary delights turned Bocuse sleeps in the room where he was Bocuse says of the restaurant in weekends. their tasks, one scooping hunks of butter His soupe au truffles noires, crowned out by Bocuse, his real distinction was born on the upper floors of his award- Catalonia, Spain, and its chef, Ferran The Lion King production will take into a saucepan simmering on a huge with a pastry shell, is a splendor to the turning the chef, once all but a scullery winning restaurant, once owned by the Adria, commonly considered a creator of place on May 5 and 6. BAIA would like to stove, another flicking grains of the eyes. The black truffle soup was created worker never credited for his culinary family of his mother. “But I changed the modernist cuisine, but who insists he is thank John Price for his generous individ- ground French red pepper piment in 1975 for then-President Valery achievements, first into a boss, then a sheets,” he adds in his characteristic jok- “merely a cook.” ual sponsorship. Should you require more d’Espelette from a spoon onto a pyramid Giscard d’Estaing. But, “Me, I like a star. ing style. “It’s not my cuisine, but I have lots of information about the workshop and tickets of crayfish, a third sprinkles parsley with simple cuisine,” Bocuse says. “What I Simplicity The master chef concocts his classic admiration for him because he brought please contact us on 25612087 and his fingers. prefer is perhaps a good spit-roasted Yet the visitor is struck by the simplic- culinary fare with help from a two- something,” said Bocuse. 60052087. You will also find information “Seventeen minutes,” one cries out. chicken from Bresse,” the eastern town ity of Bocuse, the man — and the para- hectare (nearly 5-acre) garden out back on our website www.baia.com.kw whose fowl are considered the best in Also: “A little pepper,” says another. “Did you doxes that imbue him and his life. and another elsewhere in town. The British Academy of International France. “The cuisine of today is complicated,” GAMZYUKI, Russia: Once the world’s Arts is a division of British International taste the brioche?” asks “Monsieur Fragile with age and illness, Bocuse Paul.” Scores of top chefs from around the comes to life once he dons his cylindrical he said. “Firstly, it’s complicated to have top exporter of black caviar, Russia is WLL. building fish farms to harvest the gour- It is minutes before the lunch hour in world saluted Bocuse with an 85th birth- chef’s hat — what he calls his “disguise” good suppliers. I think that finding the the heart of the temple of French gas- day fete this year in Lyon, with a meal — a humble figure who suddenly fills best, the best butcher, the best fish mon- met delicacy as it aims to bring its stur- Art tronomy, the kitchen of Paul Bocuse. The prepared at City Hall, a testament to his the shoes of his larger-than-life image, ger, the best vegetable vendor, that’s geon stocks back from the brink. final touches of another three-star meal impact on the profession, and his legacy his likeness portrayed in murals through- important,” he said. In Gamzyuki, a tiny village in the Children’s Art Workshop: This month Kaluga region, around 200 kms (125 participants in the Children’s Art Workshop are executed with military precision. as one of the first chefs to straddle the out the red and green auberge, inside and Bocuse disparages the notion that he will be learning about architecture and how Bocuse, whose Auberge du Pont de helped develop the lighter fare of “nou- miles) south of Moscow, a fish farm has Islamic art and culture have influenced Collonges just outside Lyon has main- velle cuisine.” the ambitious goal of producing 16 tons building design and decoration. The chil- tained its three stars in the Michelin “They always talk of nouvelle cuisine, of the sturgeon eggs per year by 2014. dren will start from the very basic (shapes Guide for 46 years, credits a deceptively but for me each generation had a nou- Opened three years ago, it is one of in buildings) and progress to more complex simple recipe for that success — good velle cuisine,” he said, including dozens of sturgeon farms that have ideas related to function as well as design. produce fresh from the garden, a superb Georges Auguste Escoffier, who gave opened in Russia recently, aiming to At the end of the month, they will be visit- kitchen staff and happy diners. classic French cuisine a world profile, rebuild the nation’s reputation as the ing the Arab Organizations Headquarters and whose style remains the inspiration world’s premium exporter of caviar. Building (AKA Arab Fund Building), Celebrity at Bocuse’s table. In a brightly-lit hangar, thousands of which features examples inspired by tradi- “It’s the client who runs the house,” Fischler, the sociologist, agrees that the distinctive fish with pointed snouts tional Islamic art and architecture. says Bocuse, a man credited with trans- Bocuse incorporates the values found in and whisker-like barbels swirl around in For more information on the Children’s forming the role of chef from invisible nouvelles cuisine, “use of the best prod- dozens of vast pools, tended by white- Art Workshop or to register your child, artist to celebrity. Yet “Monsieur Paul,” ucts in an optimal way,” while remaining coated workers. email email@example.com as he is known, praises everyone but Several times a month, the workers net classic. ❑ ❑ ❑ himself for his accomplishments. And he “I always say that I make an identifi- the fish and extract their eggs through a DAI Children’s workshop: Dar Al- bows to Lady Luck. able cuisine with bones or fish bones,” careful incision in a technique that does Athar Al-Islamiyyah has an exciting This week, the credit is returned when Bocuse said. “Today, there are lots of not kill the long-lived fish — unlike he is proclaimed Chef of the Century by kinds of cuisine. I’m not against them. If those caught in the wild, which are sim- Continued on Page 28 the Culinary Institute of America during the restaurant works, if it’s full of clients ply slashed open. a reception in New York. ... whatever the cuisine, he (the chef) is Such unsustainable fishing grew ram- Despite a globe-spanning empire of right.” pantly after the fall of the Soviet Union upscale eateries, Bocuse doesn’t sit on A worker extracts caviar from a sturgeon at a fish farm, outside the Russian town That goes, too, for modernist cuisine, and led to stocks falling so low that his laurels. The icon of French cuisine is of Kaluga, some 180 kms from Moscow on March 15. Once the world’s top a popular and often deconstructive Russia nine years ago introduced a mora- now 85 and retired, but he still keeps an exporter of black caviar, Russia is building fish farms to harvest the gourmet deli approach to cooking that brings science torium on commercial fishing of stur- eye on the kitchen and every day eats a cacy as it aims to bring its sturgeon stocks back from the brink. (AFP) and even laboratory equipment into the geon in the Caspian Sea.
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