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							Virginia Beach SPCA - Promoting a Humane Community Since 1966


Dog Training Tips
Category : Dog Advice
Published by Specialprojects on 2007/10/8




Dog BehaviorUnderstanding the nature of dogs and the pack theory. Dogs are pack animals by
nature, and it is an integral part of the nature of a pack animal to try and rise to the highest level he
can. A pack is a group of dogs that live together as a group and are very dependent on one another
for survival. There is room for only one leader. A dog's nature is to be a leader or be lead.
When we share our home with a dog he will in turn adopt us as his human/dog pack. He will either try
and be a leader of this pack or he will submit to leadership with the right kind of guidance. This is
where recommending obedience training fits in. Training gives the owner a language in which he can
communicate to his dog, a language in which both can understand. Training can be introduced to
dogs of any age, contrary to some who believe you cannot train an older dog. Puppies are capable of
learning as early as 5 weeks of age. Most obedience classes will start accepting puppies after their
first inoculations have been given (around 12-14 wks old). Beginner classes will start when puppies
are around 5-6 months of age, and older dogs are accepted in these classes as well. Preventive
TrainingPreventive training means you try to prevent your dog from exhibiting inappropriate behavior
by keeping an eye on him when he is with you, or by keeping him in his crate or a puppy/dog proofed
area when you cannot keep an eye on him. The methodology behind this type of training is if your
dog does not get an opportunity to exhibit an unwanted behavior, you do not have to modify his
behavior or use negative training methods. This type of training requires more participation from the
owner as far as constant supervision and consistency, but in the long run preventive training is far
less stressful on both owner and dog. This training method has 2 advantages: 1) sets you up
immediately as the pack leader; and 2) expedites the bonding between you and your new friend. If
you bring your new puppy home and just turn him loose in your house, in a matter of maybe 5
minutes he will have carried off as much as he could stuff in his little mouth, and chewed up what he
could not. On the other hand, if you chose to train in a preventive manner, you would only allow your
puppy or dog in the room you are in and you would have a supply of proper chew toys ready for him
when the need arises. If you catch him chewing on something he should not have, such as your
draperies, you would distract him by saying "NO" in a very firm tone of voice and then offer him a
proper chew toy along with praise so he will associate the praise with the appropriate chew toy.
Remember dogs/puppies understand about three tones of voice along with body language and eye
contact. For example: ->High pitched-excitable tones would be very effective for motivating your
dog/puppy (for coming to you when he is called or for heeling properly). This tone also reminds him
of his litter-mates (this is why children have a difficult time winning the respect of a dog/puppy since
they sound like equals). ->Matter-of-fact tones are excellent for giving commands to your dog/puppy
(same tone as a bark -- calm, direct, no urgency). ->Lowered tones which would simulate a growl
from mom (which means whatever it is you are doing, stop it now). Remember, yelling or striking
your dog/puppy will only confuse him and cause him to mistrust you. Dogs/puppies do not
understand being hit or grabbed. They will only learn they cannot trust you or to fear you. They will
understand direct eye contact, tones in your voice or your body language, so use it to your
advantage. Direct eye contact can either mean you are looking at your dog lovingly and he will
exchange your glance. Or when giving a dog a good long stare in the eyes after he has just jumped
on you and you have told him "OFF" the stare means "I mean business". What about body
language? Do you have a puppy who cowers when you approach him, maybe he even squats and

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urinates just a little? You do not hit him so why does he do this? The way you move toward a dog
can be a threat in itself. Are you a lot bigger than the dog? Do you move quickly? Do you bend
towards him? Why not try to encourage the dog to come to you, squat down on his level so you are
not so threatening, use a piece of his dog food or a favorite toy to convince him to come closer. Pet
him when he gets very near you (do not reach out), make sure you praise him for showing courage.
All too often people console their dog/puppy when he shows signs of being frightened, which is a
normal human reaction. However, to a dog/or puppy, this only confirms his fear. For example, your
child drops a metal lid from a cooking pan onto the hard surface of the kitchen floor. Before you can
blink an eye, your dog/puppy has thrown himself under the nearest piece of furniture shaking
uncontrollably. Instead of pulling him out and consoling him (which would be the same as saying to
your dog/puppy "It's okay to be afraid,") try enticing him out with a treat, laugh, be positive. Your
dog/puppy will pick up on your mood. Show him he has nothing to fear. Housebreaking Tips
Establish an elimination spot outdoors. In the morning, clip his leash to his collar and take dog
outdoors to his spot for elimination. State your command like "go potty" or "hurry". After he does his
duty, bring the dog inside for food and water. About 15 to 20 minutes after the meal, take the dog
outside again for elimination. Take your dog to his "spot" at each elimination time. Maintain a regular
feeding, drinking, and elimination schedule. SchedulesBecause dogs/puppies are creatures of habit,
schedules are very important. You will want to get your new friend housebroken very quickly and,
without a schedule, housebreaking can be a very long drawn out ordeal. What kind of schedule and
for what. You need to schedule when to feed, water, exercise and take your dog/puppy outdoors to
eliminate. If you know when he ate and filled his bladder up with water you will have a pretty good
idea when he will need to be taken outdoors to eliminate. You will also be training his digestive
system as well, which will help take some of the guess work out of housebreaking. Remember
preventive training, it's always best to be thinking ahead. Take your dog outside when you think
he might have to eliminate, rather than wait too long and run the risk of your puppy/dog having an
accident indoors. Always accompany your dog/puppy outdoors for two reasons: 1) you can take him
to a pre-selected area in your yard to eliminate in, therefore doing away with the habit of smelling the
whole yard to find the desired area to eliminate. 2) You will be assured that your dog/puppy has
eliminated before bringing him indoors, and you can praise him. Exercise is important for all dogs.
Between 40% to 60% of all adult dogs are either overweight or likely to get that way due to diet and
lack of an exercise program. Lack of exercise can cause dogs/puppies to exhibit destructive chewing
behavior because they become bored or are trying to burn off excess energy. Taking your dog/puppy
for a 15-20 minute walk can help socialize him, give you both something to do together (bonding),
and is a great way to exercise. As far as an elimination schedule, more is always better. The more
times your puppy/dog eliminates outdoors where you want him to, the slimmer the chance for him to
have an accident indoors. The clearer the picture to the dog/puppy, the quicker they will catch on to
what you want from them. They really want to please you and you can show them how to do it.
Housebreaking Accidents Even well-trained dogs sometimes have accidents. Clean the accident
area with a pet odor neutralizer so you dog won't be tempted to repeat his mistake. Here are
some tips to prevent accidents: ->do not make sudden changes in his diet ->avoid giving your dog
late night snacks ->not enough time outdoors--make sure he has enough time outdoors to relieve
himself ->health problems--consult your veterinarian Housebreaking / Crate TrainingWe already
talked a little about the importance of scheduling your dog/puppy for his meals (water and kibble),
elimination and exercise, and how beneficial this can be when we are trying to expedite our
housebreaking. Now we will explain the use of a crate. First of all, "crate" training is not putting your
dog/puppy in a cage or jail and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips. Remember, dogs are
pack animals by nature and pack animals live, raise their young, and eat in dens. So by offering a
den animal a den to sleep in you are following one of his natural instincts. Watch your own dog
around home. Where do you find him napping in his deepest sleep? Under the table, desk, chair?

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Yes, somewhere out of the traffic pattern where he has a roof overhead and a little privacy. A crate
offers security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it
all. There are basically just a few steps in "crate" training and they are as follows: ->Choose a crate
the same size as your puppy/dog. He should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie
down. His crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him. If you get a
huge crate for a small dog, he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the other and you will have
defeated the whole purpose of using the crate (dogs do not like to eliminate anywhere where they
sleep or eat). If you have a puppy who will grow into a 60-70 lb. dog, you may have to buy 2 different
crate sizes or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows. ->Use a single word
command for your dog to enter his crate, for example, "KENNEL"; throw in apiece of his kibble; when
the dog/puppy enters, praise him and repeat 5-10 times. Lengthen the time he spends in the crate
before you let him back out. ->As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate comfortably for
as many hours as he is months old plus one month (2 mth.. old pup + 1 mth = 3 hours in his crate).
->Always take your puppy/dog outside to the same area in your backyard to eliminate on a leash so
you can praise him when his job is finished. This will take the guess work out of his visits to the
backyard. And don't forget to play with him and exercise him. He needs this kind of stimulation
for his mental and physical wellness. Remember, your dog or puppy is a pack animal by nature and
he will be looking to you for direction. Our job as a responsible pet owner is to give him that direction
so you can enjoy each other as true companions should. Excessive Barking Barking is the
dog's method of communication, but sometimes they bark too much. Many times you can
control excessive barking by understanding the potential causes. If your dog barks when you are
away from home, try not to make a "scene" when you leave. Leave a radio on for your dog to be
comforted by human voices. Dogs might also bark because they need more exercise, have been
confined too long or need to relieve themselves. Dogs might also bark because of loud noises
outdoors or if they hear other dogs outside. Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise and play
time. To train you dog and control his barking, state the command "quiet" in a low voice. Praise him
when he obeys. If he continues, clip a leash to his collar, say "quiet". When dog looks at you, praise
him, tell him to sit, help him into sitting position. Offer one treat or kibble of his food and praise to
reinforce good behavior. Biting/Chewing Dogs need to chew to relieve stress and excess energy. In
fact, puppy teething is a natural part of development. If your dog chews on something that is
off-limits, say "no" in a low voice. Then give your dog a safe chew toy. Praise him for good behavior.
Remember to give your dog safe chew toys instead of old household items like old shoes, because
that could encourage him to also chew on new shoes. You will also want to avoid rough play and
games like "tug of war" as this will encourage aggressive behavior. Many older puppies develop
chewing problems as a result of separation anxiety when they are no longer the center of attention as
much as when they were first brought in to the family. Treat a chewing dog much as you would a
toddler -- chew proof the areas where your dog has access. Remove chewable items wherever
possible, and spray bitter apple (available from most pet food stores) along baseboards and furniture.
Digging Dogs dig instinctively but there may also be other reasons. Hot temperatures outdoors may
cause a dog to dig a hole in which to cool himself. Provide plenty of water and a cool place for him.
Also, lack of exercise or boredom might cause him to dig, so be sure to provide plenty of play time
and exercise. Your dog could be burying his "treasure" or chasing a scent. To train your dog to stop
digging, state the command "no" when you catch him. Then distract him with play or exercise.
ObedienceListed below are some basic obedience commands which you will find useful in your
everyday living with your dog. With any command, you will want to use a matter-of-fact tone when
talking to your dog or puppy. Be calm about it, have fun, praise him when he has earned it, and be
consistent. Coming When Called It will be to your benefit to start using this command when your
puppy is 7 weeks old. The earlier you start letting him know that when you say "come"; and he does,
life will be great. Always encourage your puppy to come with enthusiastic praise and lots of

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encouragement. Keep in mind that no two dogs or puppies are alike so you will have to adjust your
training methods according to the individual. Which means what might have worked to motivate one
dog may not work on another. Use your imagination, food treats or toys. Try to avoid calling him in a
threatening tone. He may associate this with being scolded. Training Tip: If you are scolding your dog
for not coming the first time he has been called, he may be associating your impatience with you
losing your temper, which means coming to you is the last thing on his mind. If he begins to ignore
you and act as if he does not hear you, attach a long leash to him so you have a way to reel him in to
you after you give him one command to "come", this way you are not repeating the command and
your dog will learn to come when he is called (because he has no choice). Be enthusiastic! Jumping
Up On People Most often this type of behavior is exhibited by puppies, small dogs, or dogs which
have never been trained not to jump on people. Dogs will jump up on people for one reason: to get
attention from you. This is why when he is a puppy you will want to avoid petting him when he jumps
up. Teach your puppy or dog to "sit"; for attention or praise of any kind. When he jumps on you, use
your lowered tone of voice and lean towards the dog saying "OFF". He will have no choice but to
back away from you and when he does, teach him to sit only after he has his bottom firmly planted
on the ground. Offer him calm praise for obeying you. Soon all you will have to say to your dog is "sit"
and he will comply readily because he knows he will be rewarded. Training Tip: What if he jumps on
you on "the fly" and zips off where you cannot get your hands on him? Attach your leash to his collar
and now you are in total control. Tell him "OFF," now "SIT" (help him into this position), now praise
him calmly. If you offer too much excited praise you will be giving him the fuel to feed his bad habit,
because he will want to jump up again. You cannot expect him to be calm if you are talking to him in
your cutest baby talk. Try to avoid situations where you will be setting the dog up in a "no win"
situation. Forging Ahead When You Are On A Walk The one most important thing you will want to
keep in mind with this command is, you have to make yourself more interesting than anything else
around you during your walks. Give your dog a reason to stay with you. Talk to him, give him a "sit"
command, stop, make him lie down for one second -- make it an interesting walk. The most common
reason for dogs forging ahead of their owner is they become bored, or their owner allows them to
smell at everything along the way, so before you know it, "Rover" is pulling you along wherever he
wishes to go. Without realizing it, the owner is also allowing Rover to be in charge of his own destiny.
You should begin your walk by telling your dog "Heel". Use his name first to get his attention and be
very enthusiastic as you give the command. Now, do not forget to talk to him so he pays attention to
you, praise him when he is in the correct heel position, which is dog on your left, his right shoulder
should be in line with your left hip. If he forges ahead, stop, make him sit, resume your walk and
repeat the "sit" as needed. Training Tip: If your dog insists on pulling ahead, work with him in small
counter clockwise circles. This will encourage him to pay attention to you as you are walking. Do not
let him smell the ground as you walk, as this will encourage him to not pay any attention to you. Play
with him in your backyard and allow him to burn off some excess energy before you try to take him
out for a controlled walk (somewhat like allowing children recess at school before class). Another bad
habit to allow while walking your dog is eliminating wherever he chooses. You should only allow him
to eliminate in a specific area of your backyard. By allowing him to just eliminate anywhere some
dogs will turn this into a "marking" behavior, thereby claiming the entire neighborhood. Your
dog's new job is to mark everywhere he can pick up the scent of a strange dog. This type of
behavior is also known as a "leader" behavior which is allowing him to have that feeling of being in
charge, and could also lead to "territorial" marking. Housebreaking A dog or puppy is either
housebroken or not. If he has an accident only once in a while or all the time he is still not
housebroken. You may want to refer back to information under the crate training section. If your dog
is sneaking off to another room and having an accident you will have to take some of his freedom
away until you can solve the problem. The longer you allow this type of behavior to exist, the harder it
will be to modify. Unless you can catch him, it really does not do any good to drag him off to the sight

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of his mishap and try and punish him. Keep him in sight and if he is bold enough to try something in
front of you, say "NO", get his attention and take him outdoors quickly so he can finish eliminating in
the appropriate area. Remember, it is your house. He has to earn his freedom through good behavior
and this is your responsibility. Training Tips: One of the most commonly made errors in
housebreaking is rushing too quickly ahead of your dog. Too much freedom too quickly can cause
some confusion. If your dog experiences an accident or two you will have to back up and slow down.
Marking should not be confused with housebreaking problems because marking is deliberate. This
behavior will arise in dogs who may be trying to vie for the role of the leader in the household, as
marking is a way of claiming territory. It is advised that if you should notice this behavior indoors or
out, you should strengthen all obedience commands immediately. This will remove all doubts as to
who is in charge around the house. Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large
may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other. Placing food or water in his crate
will allow him to fill up his bladder and bowel and he will have no choice but to relieve himself in his
crate. Make sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and
especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time. If you have tried all the above and are still
experiencing what you believe to be "Territorial Marking", consult your veterinarian. Your dog/puppy
may have a bladder infection and it's always better to be safe than sorry. If your dog/puppy is
not spayed or neutered, you should have your veterinarian perform this procedure. It usually has a
very positive effect on this type of behavior problem. Call the SPCA for details on low-cost
spay/neuter. Digging and Chewing These may be ways for dogs to release pent up energy, so try
to make sure your dog or puppy is receiving plenty of exercise. Do not forget to interact with him. He
is a pack animal and he needs you to be social with him. Dogs may dig holes in the summer
outdoors to lie in so they can keep cool; a dog may dig a hole in search of a mole or rodent (terriers
were bred specifically for this task), and remember the largest backyard in the world with fifty dog
toys in it will still become boring after a while. There is no substitute for human interaction. Chewing
will occur when a puppy is teething which could last as long as until the dog is one year old. Stress
can cause a dog to chew (just like children or adults bite their nails). Training Tips: Make sure your
dog or puppy is getting plenty of exercise. Teach him some new commands or tricks so his brain will
be stimulated as well. Before you correct him for chewing on your sneakers, make sure you have not
confused him by giving him an old sneaker to chew on. Use only toys which are made specifically for
chewing. As a general rule of thumb, if he can get the whole toy in his mouth he may be able to
swallow it whole or it could become lodged in his throat. When you take an object from your dog or
puppy that you do not wish for him to have, supply him with a chew toy and offer praise to him so he
can associate what things he can chew on and which things he cannot. Be consistent. Offer ice
cubes to teething puppies. The ice will help relieve some of the discomfort of his gums and aid in
helping to cut teeth. (Make sure you run him outdoors occasionally to eliminate - ice is water). Eye
Contact Humans generally establish eye contact when they want to establish a friendly relationship.
With dogs, eye contact could mean just the opposite. Staring directly into a dog's eyes who may
be approaching aggressively or just suspiciously may cause the animal to attack. That's
because dogs relate to one another based on an unspoken system of body language that expresses
power and rank. When one dog submits to another he looks away. A direct stare says "I am your
equal". Therefore, when humans make a direct stare at a dog at the wrong time it could cause
aggression. Fortunately, a well-adjusted dog generally knows his place in the household and can
exchange a loving glance with his owner without a problem. Fear of Thunder To be afraid of thunder
is not uncommon among pets. What is unusual is how you might consider helping your dog through
these difficult times. Petting your whining dog in an attempt to comfort may in fact be the wrong thing
to do. In essence, you are reinforcing the whining behavior during the storm. Instead, try distracting
the dog by inviting him to do something else and praising that activity. And importantly, make sure
your dog is in a safe place in the home away from windows and other glass...just to make sure his

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fear will not lead to injury. For the really terrified pet, consult your veterinarian for medications that
can be used during a thunderstorm. Tricks for Treats Treats are a good way to reward your dog for
a job well done. Here are five ways you can treat your dog to better training: ->Treat and train your
pet after a play session. After a rousing game of fetch, let your dog know who's in command
and reward him with a treat. ->End every grooming session with a treat. Teach your dog the reward
of good grooming by giving him a treat after brushing. ->When you leave, throw him a dog snack.
Give your dog something she can chew on while you're gone. BONZ brand snacks can be
particularly fun since many dogs like to play with them before they chomp down. ->Let your dog
follow his nose "down". This can be a tricky command to teach a dog, but not if you use an aromatic
treat like Purina¿ Begin' Strips brand dry snack. Working from his seated position, let your dog
sniff the treat, command "DOWN", then pull the treat down and out in an L-Shaped move. Your dog
will naturally follow his nose "down". ->Never give a treat without a trick. There should be no free
rides for dogs when it comes to treats. Always make your dog obey some kind of command before
rewarding her with a treat. global $xoopsConfig; if ($xoopsConfig['banners'] == 1) {
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