SINGER Take up lever

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  600 Series
  Touch & Sew

Gear Replacement
 Timing Guide
This guide was written utilizing a Singer Touch & Sew Model 648
While some models may vary, it will apply to all 600 Series Touch & Sew that are non-solid state controlled
Those that are solid state controlled will have a circuit board section that will require removal to ease in the gear replacement
Those models will include: some 620’s, 630’s & 640’s, all other models are not equipped with these control circuits
It is also assumed that you have purchased the newer angle gear sets, and not individual gears. If you have purchased
individual gears from another supplier, this guide will still apply, and has been laid out as best possible to help you through
the necessary steps in changing all, or one of the gears. Some sections may be skipped, depending on the type of job you are

Tool Requirements:

Basic tools required to perform this job include:
         Medium bladed screwdrivers
         5/16 Wrench, either open, or boxed end
         Pliers – both needle nose & regular
         1/16 Allen Wrench
         3/32 Allen Wrench
         Depth Gauge (really handy to have, and obtained at most
         auto parts stores), but repair is possible without it. Also
         shown is my own depth gauge that I produced for a major
         parts vendor
         Little tapping hammer, my favorite little 2oz parts

Just a little about Allen Wrenches. Shown to the left, bottom
picture, are two types of Allen Wrench ends. The far right shows a
ball-ended type head, while the one on the left shows a regular
straight-ended Allen. Both are handy to have, but for removing
stubborn setscrews, the straight-ended will work much better over
the ball-ended type. Some hardware stores carry what was called a Handi-Hex (or something to that effect). The short of it
is, it is an Allen Wrench with a Screwdriver handle, very convenient for these repairs.

Other tools may be required, depending on the difficulty in removing the old gears.
Just a word of caution needs to go with this as well, if someone else has replaced the gears before, and did not set the
setscrews in the proper positions, it will have left impressions on the gear shafts, and removing them may become a real
effort. In cases like this a Moto Tool, or Dremel will come in very handy. Other shop equipment that may help to have on
hand, a bench grinder, and vise-gripping pliers, not to mention other items from around the house, for example Aspirin ☺

Panel/Cover Removal:
                                                 Fig 1                                  Fig 2
1.  Open top lid section if equipped, fig
    1, green arrow
2. Open side cover (Face Plate), fig 1,
    yellow arrow
3. Remove the top lid screw, fig 1, red
    arrow area (some units may have a
    solid lid, no lift panel, the screw
    location is approximately the same –
    generally under the spool holder pin)
4. Position the Take-Up Lever so it is
    near the tension unit, and the needle       Fig 3
    bar is at its utmost upper swing, fig 2,
    green circle areas
5. Lift the lid slightly, and slide off to
    the left at about the angle shown in
    fig 3
6. Remove the side cover, or as the
    factory part name goes, the Face Plate
7. Remove the bottom pan screw, fig 5
                                                Fig 4
8. Grasp the bottom pan, and lift off.
    Most units are slotted, per fig 7. If
    not, they need to remove the 4 rubber
    pegs that hold the pan on as well
9. If equipped, remove the buttonholer                                          Fig 5
    dial, otherwise skip to next step. If
    equipped, you may find it easier to
    loosen the 3/32 Allen screw by
    turning the dial to Step 2, fig 8, and
    loosen from the side of the machine
10. After loosening the screw, gently turn
    the dial back to its normal position,                            Fig 6
    and then slide the dial off, fig 9
11. If equipped, slide the plastic stitch
    length knob cover off. But watch for
    parts to fall off, doesn’t always happen,
    but has been known to, fig 9

                                                             Fig 7

                                                Fig 8                        Fig 9

Panel/Cover Removal: (continued) (Note – if you are not changing the Top Vertical Gear 163328, skip this section)
1. Remove the front panel screw, fig 1
2. Position stitch width on 3, and center needle position, fig 2
3. Gently lift the panel off the machine, fig 3 & fig 4
4. It helps to push down on the two levers in fig 2, to relieve any lever
     pressure put against the front panel
Note: some models will have round pattern buttons along with the levers
shown in fig 2, these buttons just pop off. Gently pull on them, noticing they
have a flat spring side to them. When you go to put them back on, position as
they came off. Again, I’m using a 648 Touch & Sew, and it has no built in
patterns. Models like a 626, 636, or 646, and others do have built in patterns,     630 – 2 buttons
and will have 1 to 2 pattern selector buttons, depending on model. Example, a
620, 630 & 640 will have 2 buttons

                                                                      Fig 2            Fig 3

            Fig 1
                                                                    Fig 4

Motor Removal:
1. Remove the motor bracket screw & bracket, fig 1
2. Remove the plug harness from machine casting, fig 2
3. Remove the 2 motor pins, fig 3. Note some solid-state machines will have wires that go into the motor. In cases such as
   this, just remove the pins possible, and lay motor to side
4. Work the motor out of the machine, and lay to side, or remove completely if possible

                     Fig 2

    Fig 1
                                                     Fig 3

                                                                               Fig 4

    Bobbin Case & Related Parts Removal:
    1. Open the slide plate (fig 3) & lift the black position bracket straight up until it clears the adjusting eccentric, then push to
       the right, fig 1, green double arrow – dual window area
    2. Remove the bobbin case by rotating it counter clockwise & lift out, fig 1 red arrow
    3. Remove the position bracket from the machine, fig 2, it pulls straight out, but do notice it is spring loaded
    4. Remove the needle plate, fig 3, yellow arrow, if not already done. Pretty sure most of you know how this comes off

Fig 1                                                                                Fig 2                                     Fig 3

    5.   Remove the slide plate by gently lifting it upward, no higher than the
         bed of the machine, and rotate sideways until the springs let go, fig 3.
         With the needle plate off, you may push it forward until it pops off as
         well, perhaps the preferred method for some

    Bobbin Winder Removal (Note): (Part # 382980 – Angle Gear Kit)
            If you are changing the hook drive gears, proceed with these steps
            If not, skip this section and proceed to the next section
    1. Using a 5/16 wrench, remove the hook driver lock nut (this is a left
       hand thread) do so by turning it clockwise only, fig 4, green arrow
    2. Using a 1/16 Allen wrench, loosen the setscrew in the lift cam, and
       remove the cam only, fig 4, red arrow
    3. Leave the machine lying on its back, remove the hook driver lift bracket, fig 4, yellow arrow, do not set the machine
       upright yet
    4. Fig 5, left photo, shows a little hole drilled in the casting, inside that hole is the bobbin winder return spring, using the
       1/16 Allen wrench, probe inside the hole and remove the spring. I find more
       folks loose this spring as they set the machine upright, and that little bugger will                               Fig 4
       fall out and disappear into never-never land ☺
    5. Remove the hook driver by lifting it up, and working it out of the hook area, fig
       6. Tip, put the stitch length lever all the way down, and position feed dogs as
       far back as possible

                                Fig 5                                                        Fig 6

Top Vertical Gear Removal (Note): (Part # 163328)
   If you are not replacing the Top Vertical Gear, skip this section and proceed to the next section
   If you are changing the Top Vertical Gear, did you skip the front panel removal? Go back and finish removing the front
   plastic panel
   Lets briefly cover a little about the different ways that Singer may have utilized to hold this gear in place.
   Generally, Singer used a setscrew, but some models may have had a roll pin installed in it, and will need to be removed
   by punching it out. You do this by positioning the roll pin as shown below, and gently start tapping it out. You should
   use a roll pin punch, but a stiff 5/64 Allen wrench will usually
   work. Anything stiff enough to tap on, and fit through the hole as
                                                                               Fig 1
   you tap it out. Just far enough to remove the gear from the shaft, do
   not attempt to punch it all the way out, as it will get stuck in the
   machine casting, and you will not be able to turn the machine
   enough by hand to finish removing it. The 648 I am using, in fact
   has the gear shaft for a roll pin installation type gear. However, I’m
   not going to cover this in detail, and am going to focus on the
   setscrew type system. If you have one with a roll pin, feel free to
   email me, and I’ll do what I can to help you remove the pin. or I’m pretty confident if
   you are tackling this job, you will figure it out

1.  Remove the top vertical gear setscrew as seen in fig 1, green arrow
2.  Lay the machine on its back, or upside down, and remove the setscrew in gear 174204, lower vertical gear, fig 3, left
    green arrow
3. Using the screwdriver, push the vertical gear shaft out through the bottom of the machine, fig 2, unit it appears far
    enough out of the lower vertical gear, fig 3, right green arrow. At this point you should be able to remove by hand, if
    not, continue to tap it out as best possible, or utilizing a pair of pliers (I really hate using pliers) grab the shaft and work it
    on out
Note: if the Vertical shaft has any burring from setscrews, or impressions left from using the pliers, ensure to remove all
burrs from the shaft before reinstalling. Filing them off with a fine file, or using a Moto Tool / Dremel with a polishing stone
should work just fine. Point is, it should be as smooth as possible to ensure it will slide into place with resistance

                                                                                                Fig 3

 Fig 2

    Lower End - Horizontal Shaft & Gear Removal:
    The removal of the horizontal shaft is required for any lower end gear change, other than the hook drive gear
    The hook drive gear may be replaced solely by referring to the bobbin winder removal section, and you purchased an original
    style gear, and not the newer angle gear set/s

    Using a 3/32 Allen Wrench
    1. Remove the 2 setscrews in the timing gear, fig 1
    2. Remove the setscrew in the hook drive gear, fig 2
    3. Remove the lower horizontal shaft, passing out through the motor housing & plug harness area, fig 3
    4. Remove the hook gear, and the hook drive gear, fig 4
    5. Clean any shaft burring of with a file, or Moto Tool / Dremel utilizing a polishing stone

Fig 1                                                                             Fig 2                                          Fig 3

Fig 4

    Clean all the parts up, removing any burrs from the shafts, oil stains, or other gunk, so all parts will slip together without fuss.
    Try them by hand first to ensure everything will slip together before starting the installation procedures.

            Top Vertical Gear Replacement: (Part # 163328)
               If you are not replacing this gear, skip this step and proceed to the next
            1. Slide the vertical shaft back into the machine from the bottom end, fig 1
            2. Position the top vertical shaft so it just starts to come out of the bushing, fig 2 is showing it out of the bushing, don’t
               raise it as high as shown
            3. Start to position the top vertical gear into place, fig 3. You will find a pair of rather long needle nose pliers will help a
               great deal here, like the ones shown in the basic tools, upper right of photo. Or a long magnet/screw launcher if you have
               one, fig 6
            4. Once the vertical shaft and gear is in place, snug the setscrew down, and rotate the machine a few times by hand. Check
               for any binding, and excessive noise, fig 4. Once satisfied with the feel and sound, tighten the setscrew

Just a bit on the vertical shaft, and different types used. Some have the hole for a roll pin, as we mentioned earlier (fig 5), and some
may have a flat spot, or some may even have a V groove cut into them. Depending on which one your machine was equipped with;
you wish to position the setscrew into that respective area.

    Fig 1                             Fig 2                                                                                    Fig 6

                                                                                              Fig 3

                                                                             Fig 5

      Fig 4

Top Vertical Gear Note: most replacement gears today are aftermarket gears, and I’m not 100% sure if Singer still makes their own or
not either. Point is, the replacement gears will produce more noise than before, but there are several ways around it. Try the gear first,
and see how it sounds. It’s a little difficult without a motor and running at high speed, but turning by hand several times will give you
a fair idea. It has been my experience over the years that the top vertical gear does require some modification for it to really perform
as smoothly as the original. If you look at the gears base, you will notice a slight bevel in it. Place it next to the original gear and
compare the heights. Now if the top gear you have is completely gone, comparing is a little difficult. But we want to examine the
overall height of each gear. Ideally, the new gear should be the same in height. If not, I have found that cutting some of the base off
will help a great deal. But as mentioned, try it first before you start filing away at it. I usually use a bench grinder, and very carefully
turn the gear until the bevel area is gone, all the while dipping in water to keep the plastic nice and cool. A tedious job, but usually

  Bottom Vertical Gear Replacement: (Part # 174204) not to be confused with 174204AS – new angle gear set
  1. Install 174204, fig 1 top photo, or if using the angle gear set, install the larger of the two gears in the set, fig 1 lower
      photo – top gear
  2. Position the gear on the shaft, snug the setscrew and check for any free play, up/down movement in the shaft between the
      lower and top V gears. There should be just a little free play, but not so much as to cause excessive noise. Best way is
      by feel, and not by visual inspection. You should feel a little movement, but unable to visually see it
  3. Rotate the machine several times, check for binds, to tight spots. Re-adjust the lower gear as needed until the machine
      spins freely
  4. Position the needle bar before installing the timing gear, fig 2. Note that the needle bar has two lines inscribed in it.
      Turn the machine towards you until the top mark is even with the bottom-bushing carrier. Continue to turn the machine
      until the lower mark is now at the same spot, even with the bottom-bushing carrier (Note, the photo was taken at an angle
      to better show the marks, when you visually inspect the alignment, the marks should be even with the black bushing,
      looking at it straight on)
  5. Install the timing gear, fig 1, bottom photo, gear to the left, if using the angle set, or fig 3 if using an original gear. With
      the lower needle bar mark in place (fig 2 bottom photo), position the gear so 1 of the setscrews may be accessed with
      ease, fig 3. Insert the horizontal gear shaft and slide in as far as the hook drive bushing. Do not tighten any screws

                                 Fig 2

                                                                                     Fig 3

Fig 1                            Ensure for proper mesh of the gear teeth. The teeth of the gear should
                                 match evenly at the point shown in fig 1, red arrow area
                                 Either type of gear should mesh in this manner

                                 Note the horizontal gear shaft. Like the Vertical shaft, it may have a V
                                 notch, or V grove cut into it, or may have flat spots. Position the new
                                 gears into these respective areas, fig 4

                                                             Fig 4

  Install Hook Drive & Hook Gears:
  1. Install the hook drive gear, fig 5, and position the setscrew either on the flat spot, or V groove per the type of horizontal
      shaft utilized. The timing gear should still be loose at this point
  2. Install the hook gear; fig 6, ensuring the setscrew is on the flat spot of the hook shaft. Check for free play of the hook.
      You should not visually notice any movement, but when lifting up and down, should hear a slight metal-to-metal clack.
      Turn the hook, or gear set by hand, and ensure it spins freely. Re-adjust if binding is present

                         Fig 5                                          Fig 6

 Install Bobbin Winder Unit:
 1. Install the hook driver back into the hook, fig 1
 2. Lay the machine on its back
 3. Install the winder return spring, fig 2
 4. Install the hook driver positioning washer, fig 3, or as Singer calls it for the 700 series, the “Rotating Hook Bobbin
     Driver Locator” (what a name). Do note that the hook driver has a flats area, green circled area, and the washer has a
     rectangular slot. The rectangular slot should fit snuggly onto the hook drivers flats area
 5. Install the lift bracket and jam nut. Recall, the jam nut is a left hand thread. Snug the jam nut, turning counter -
     clockwise. Do not over tighten, it is possible to snap the threads off the hook driver, just snug is good. At the same time
     ensure the washer continues to fit the hook driver properly on the flats
 6. Install the bobbin winder lever, fig 5
 7. Install the lift cam, fig 6
 8. Adjusting the bobbin winder. There are several winders and activation lever systems used in the 600’s. The most
     common is the lever with the target button as shown in fig 5. However some 620 series may have a rocker lever, as
     shown in fig 8. The point is all systems should be adjusted where the hook driver lifts no more than 5/64 to 3/32 of an
     inch. Using a depth gauge set to 5/64 total depth; position the gauge on the hook surface, fig 7. Activate the winder
     unit. When the hook driver raises and locks into place, the surface of the hook driver will just touch the depth gauge. If
     there is a gap, or it moves the depth gauge, readjust the lift cam until the proper height is achieved. If adjusted correctly,
     the machine will wind a bobbin without double catching the top thread, or the bobbin will not chatter (pop up & down)
     during winding. Always use a new bobbin for testing. Bobbins do become stressed, and the middle post where they
     screw together will extend beyond the bottom of the bobbin base, causing nothing but grief

Fig 1                                          Fig 2                                   Fig 3                          Fig 4

Fig 5                                                                                   Fig 7

                                                                                                     Fig 8
                                 Fig 6

Timing The Hook To The Needle:
As discussed earlier, the needle bar has two lines inscribed in it, an
upper line and lower line. When the needle bar is at its lowest stroke,      Fig 1
just before it starts up, the top mark should be even with the bushing
carrier (black adjusting screw), looking it straight on. The pictures
have been taken at an angle to better show the lines.
1. Turn the machine towards you until the needle bar is at the very          Fig 2
     lowest point of travel. The top line/marking should be even with
     the bushing. Adjust for proper depth if required, fig 1
2. Turn the machine towards you until the bottom line is now at the
     very same position the top line was at, fig 2
3. When step 2 is at its mark, fig 2, the point of the hook will just start to enter the scarf of the needle, fig 3. Needle scarf,
     see fig 4
4. Lay the machine on its back, and snug the first setscrew in the timing gear, fig 5. Turn the machine several times by
     hand, double check for proper timing. Readjust as necessary
Fig 3                                                                      Fig 4

                                                                                        Fig 5

Install The Motor & Remaining Parts:
Refer to motor removal
1. Install the motor, wiring harness, motor pins, and position plug
    mold into machine frame, fig 1                                        Fig 1
2. Install motor bracket and tighten into place, fig 2
3. Install position bracket, fig 3. When sliding the bracket into
    place, hold at a 45-degree angle, slide into place until you feel
    resistance, continue to slide into place. The bracket is spring
4. Install slide plate, fig 4. To ease in slide plate installation,
    place the plate on the machine, just before the spring, gently
    lift each side of the spring into the plate, and pull back into
5. Install bobbin case & needle plate

That should about cover it. Oil the remaining parts of the machine, run and check for noise.
Readjust gears and or bushings to eliminate excessive noise, and test sew
                                                                                                            Fig 2

                   Fig 3                                   Fig 4


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