NFPA Needle bar drive set by mikesanye

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									Notes on Detailing a
  Weaver 2-8-0

          By
     Joe Foehrkolb
Baldwin Forge & Machine
   Baldwin, Maryland
          The Weaver 2-8-0
• The Weaver 2-8-0 locomotive has filled a
  long time need for a generic 2-8-0 steam
  locomotive in O scale. The engine is
  available at a reasonable price in many road
  names and undecorated. Because it is a
  “generic” 2-8-0 it lends itself to
  modifications by the modeler. Since there
  is no prototype to shoot for when detailing,
  virtually anything within reason can be
  done to it.
    Weaver 2-8-0 Modifications
• The following slide presentation illustrates
  some modifications to these models
  performed in my shop. The photos show
  work on two different models taken as the
  jobs progressed. The first modification I
  considered was replacing the side and main
  rods with better looking parts. This is not
  difficult to do, but it does require a drill
  press and some skill in fitting up the parts.
          Side & Main Rods
• In my opinion, the side and main rods
  which come with the Weaver engine are
  poorly formed and oversize. There are
  sections of the side rods between the second
  and third driver and third and fourth driver
  that measure over 15” in scale height.
   Original Rods on the Engine
• Here is a photo of the original Weaver rods
  on the loco. Notice the high section in the
  side rod behind the 3rd driver and the main
  rod which is too large and has no taper
  between the crankpin and the crosshead.
                  Rods
• Now take a look at the same model with the
  Sunset side and main rods installed.
            PRR H-10 Rods
• Fortunately there is a replacement for these
  rods. The driver wheel base of the Weaver
  2-8-0 is exactly the same as the Central
  Locomotive Works PRR H-10 locomotive.
  There is also a source for Sunset H-10 rods
  which are also exactly the right length. I
  have used both sets of rods in converting
  these locomotives. The Sunset rods, which
  are pre-assembled are easier to install.
          Comparison Photo
• Here is a photo of the Weaver rods
  alongside of the Sunset rods prior to
  modifying the Sunset rods for the diameter
  of the Weaver crankpins.
      Drilling the Sunset Rods
• I drilled the main crankpin (3rd driver) hole
  No 11 and the 1st, 2nd and 4th crankpin
  holes No 27. I also drilled the hole in the
  main rod No 11. Tap the crosshead
  attachment hole 1-72. I used the original
  crossheads. You may opt to turn a new
  main driver crankpin to avoid drilling the
  main pin holes so large but mine came out
  fine. The next photo shows drilling rods on
  the drill press .
      Mounting the Side Rods
• You have to make a right and left side set of
  side rods. The front crankpin bosses on the
  rods must be filed down to the thickness of
  the original Weaver rods in order to use the
  original crankpin screws and keep them
  from hitting the crossheads as they revolve.
  After the rods are on the model you cannot
  see the thinned down front crankpin bosses.
      Mounting the Side Rods
• I machined bushings for insertion into the
  rear driver crankpin holes to keep the short
  crankpin screws from going in too far and
  binding the thicker rear bosses on the
  Sunset side rods. You can file your rear
  side rod bosses down or order longer
  crankpin screws from Weaver. (NOTE: The
  2nd driver crankpin screws are longer.)
  Here’s a photo of the modified rods.
  Removing the Old Main Rods
• The original main rods are attached to the
  crossheads with rivets. I simply filed the
  heads off the rivets and punched them out
  of the crossheads. The rivets stay attached
  to the old main rods and have no further
  use.
     Mounting the Main Rods
• I discarded the sleeves and spacers that
  came with the Weaver engine on the main
  crankpin and made 1/16” thick spacer
  washers (drilled No 10) to go between the
  main and side rods on the main crankpin.
  You can cut and file the original Weaver
  spacers and make these up without a lathe.
      Mounting the Main Rods
• I attached the main rods to the crossheads
  with hex head 1-72 machine screws
  available in most hobby shops. You may
  have to get 1/4” long screws and file them
  down to fit so they do not protrude out the
  back of the main rods and hit the first driver
  crankpin screws.
   Side View of Loco with new
              Rods
• The following photo shows a side view of
  the entire loco with the new rods installed.
• Note also that the driver tire rims have been
  painted and the entire mechanism given an
  overspray of Floquil grimy black to give the
  loco an in service look.
   Locomotive Brake Cylinders
• Since the previous photo was taken I have
  added PSC brake shoes (P/N 40135) to the
  locomotive. The castings come with a
  separate piston rod and clevis. Drill the
  brake cylinder out with a No 55 drill and
  solder the piston rod into the cylinder. The
  operating lever, rod and supports are made
  from brass stock. I used small brass pins to
  attach the rod supports to the loco frame.
   Locomotive Brake Cylinders
• In order to allow the use of the on/off
  switch for the smoke unit and access to the
  rear boiler mounting screws, the location of
  the holes for mounting the brake cylinder
  castings is important. I used a No 44 drill
  and located the holes 9/16” in from the back
  of the frame and 3/16” down from the
  stepped out section of the frame.
   Locomotive Brake Cylinders
• I filed the mounting pins on the rear of the
  cylinder castings slightly so that they were a
  press fit into the No 44 mounting holes,
  pressed them in with the aid of a pair of
  needle nose pliers, aligned them and put a
  drop of super glue around each casting at
  the joint. Operating levers were pinned to
  the clevis castings and soldered. Here’s a
  couple of photos before and after painting.
             Boiler Details
• The Weaver boiler casting and details are
  very nice but I did not like the bug eye
  classification lamps sitting high on the top
  of the smokebox nor did I care for the small
  headlight lens in the headlight casting.
  Take a look at a photo comparing the
  original look to a front end modified to my
  taste.
     Smokebox Modifications
• You may be satisfied with the front end of
  your model as it comes but if you want to
  change it like I did there are many sources
  for locomotive classification lamp castings
  out there. I use Cal Scale (Bowser) No
  3001 for my lamps. I install them on the
  front of the smokebox and use clear jewels
  on both the front and side lenses. My lamps
  do not illuminate but you can make yours
  light if you want to.
                Headlight
• I removed the bulb and lens from the
  headlight casting, The I removed the
  headlight casting from the headlight bracket
  with a little gentle prying. Holding the
  headlight casting in a drill press vice I
  drilled the headlight casting out to 9/32”
  inside diameter and turned an aluminum
  reflector and lucite lens for the casting.
              Tender Details
• The Weaver tender appears to be a very
  nice copy of a USRA tender used on the 2-
  8-2 and 4-6-2 locomotives. In order to
  accommodate the hi rail couplers on the 3
  rail version of these models, Weaver’s
  builder omitted all of the rear tender detail.
  Here is a photo of the rear of the tender
  prior to modifications.
             Tender Details
• I opted to install foot boards, coupler lift
  bar, poling pockets and an air hose casting
  to the rear of the tender as well as
  modifying the backup light in the same
  manner that I did to the loco headlight.
  Here is a photo of the rear a finished tender
  prior to painting the details. Although the
  reflector and lamp are in place, the backup
  light lens has not been inserted. A Kadee
  coupler was installed.
             Tender Details
• I used stanchions from my stockpile of parts
  instead of the PSC item mentioned in the
  next slide. I also made my own poling pole
  on the lathe but PSC has a nice one with
  mounting straps. It is their P/N41109.
• You will need to make a filler for the
  opening in the rear tender beam also. I used
  1/4” wide 0.032 brass strip from K&S.
  Length of the opening is 1-1/4”.
            Tender Details
• The Precision Scale Company (PSC) parts
  used to detail the tender are:
• 4676 Rerail Frogs
• 4322 Poling Pockets
• 5134 Tender Steps
• 4278 Air Hose
• 4098 Stanchions
             Tender Details
• Here is a photo of the rear of the tender
  after painting and weathering has been
  completed. I think it is a major
  improvement to the model. All castings are
  by Precision Scale. In addition to the rear
  tender details, I added Precision Scale re-
  railing frogs to the right side of the tender
  and a home made poling pole to the left
  tender side. Take a look!
                Have Fun!
• This presentation shows you some of the
  things that can be done to customize your
  Weaver 2-8-0 with a little modeling skill
  and effort. Lots of other options are there to
  consider, like a nice five chime whistle
  casting installed on the left or right side of
  the steam dome to replace the very plain
  rear mounted one. Something to think
  about! Have fun!

								
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