Document Sample

1           GETTING STARTED - RECOGNISING THE MACHINE PARTS                        1

                     Presser                Spool     winder
                     regulating thumb-        pin

                    Arm         Stitch length

                               Bed plate


    201 MODEL

                          Balance wheel

                                         take up
                                         lever                           Clamp stop
                                                                        motion screw

    plate                                                                    Needle

                                          screw                              Feed
Presser                                                                      dog
   foot                                                                      (under

                                          [1] D - 1

1           GETTING STARTED - RECOGNISING THE MACHINE PARTS                            1

In the pictures on the previous
pages are the names of the main
parts of the sewing machine
which we have used in this man-

Because models vary, some of the
parts and controls may look
slightly different but they do pro-
vide the same function.

Stitch length regulator
                                                          99         201
The pictures opposite show the
main styles of the stitch length
regulator controls.

The earlier models required
experience and guesswork but
later 99 models (as shown) had a
numbered guide to stitches per
inch.                                 New
The introduction of the 201 (bot-
tom right) provided 8 forward
stitch lengths and the same in
reverse..                             Old

Tension Mechanism.
Top of the machine:                     15k
Explained fully in the following
section on ‘How a Sewing
Machine Works’, the position and                                           66 & 99
look of the main (top) tension
mechanism also varies with dif-
ferent models.

The 15K is the most distinctive,
mounted outside the machine at
the face plate end.

Early 99s are the same as 66s but
the later ones look like the 201
and have a disc-dial with number

Bottom of the machine:

The bobbin case must be                                        201
revealed for the differences
between models to be appreciat-
ed. This too is dealt with in the
next section.

                                              [1] D - 2

2                           BOBBIN WINDER - TYPES & FUNCTION                                                      2

The bobbin winder is a separate                                                                Thread Guide
unit screwed on to the machine,         Pressure                                               Spring loaded, the
                                        Control                                                thread guide moves
adjacent to the balance wheel.          Screw                                                  from side to side in a
                                                                                               sweeping movement.
Its function is to wind a reserve of
cotton evenly onto an empty                                                                    Rubber Wheel
bobbin and (in most cases) spring                                                              Presses on the inside
release when the bobbin is full.                                                               flange of the balance

The most frequently seen type                                                                  Spindle Worm
actually performs three tasks: (1)      Stop Latch                                             Revolves with the
winding (2) evenly distributing         Spring loaded to                                       spindle, engages with
                                        snap into working                                      the gear teeth and
(or guiding) the thread and (3)                                                                turns the gear wheel.
                                        position and quick
stopping when full.                     release back to rest.
                                                                                               Cam Gear Wheel
                                        Bobbin Control Lever
In order to achieve this multi-                                                                Cam
                                        This part of the Stop Latch
tasking, the bobbin winder has          pushes backwards as the                                Attached underneath
three sets of components, springs       bobbin fills up.                                       (and revolving with)
                                                                                               the gear wheel, the
and levers doing different jobs                         Spindle Shaft                          cam pushes against
but all working in unison.                              Holds the bobbin                       and moves the thread
                                                                                               laying guide.

There are three main types of
bobbin winder. Before you start
to dismantle one and work on it,
you firstly need to identify which
type it is.

And then familiarise yourself
with how it works.

            TYPE A

                                                                           2     4

                                       (2) An empty bobbin is inserted         (a) The rubber wheel is pressed
                                       on to the bobbin spindle until the      against the balance wheel and...
                                       small pin in the spindle shoulder
                                       locates in the hole in the bobbin       (b) The stop latch comes to rest
                                       side plate.                             between the side plates of the
                                                                               bobbin and holds it in place.


(1) With small variations, TYPE A
was installed on 66, 99 and 15K
models over a long period.

It has a winder, thread guide and
a release mechanism. It is the one
most frequently seen and is the
most complicated.
For this reason, it is really useful   (3) When the spindle housing is
to have an assembled spare             pressed down, the stop latch            (5) As the handle is turned the
example to hand, so you can refer      snaps forward.                          bobbin fills with cotton, the stop
to it as you work.                                                             latch is forced upwards until it
                                       (4) With this action, two things        eventually spring releases back
                                       happen:                                 into its original

                                                     [2] D - 1

2                        BOBBIN WINDER - TYPES & FUNCTION                                                   2

When the handle is turned the                                             In its simplest form the bracket
worm on the spindle turns the                                             has two slots that the thread is
thread guide gear wheel. This is                                          taken through.
fixed to a cam which pushes the
thread laying guide to one side.


                                    (9) The gear wheel is retained by a
                                    central (eccentric) screw with a
                                    small square lock nut at the back.                                 12

    6                               It is a common mistake to remove      (12) Another variation of the base
                                    the eccentric screw and gear          plate thread guide has two small -
(6) When the cam is at its maxi-    wheel for cleaning not realising      sprung loaded - tension wheels.
mum diameter the thread guide       the adjustment between the
lever is pushed to the right        worm and gear teeth must be set
                                    correctly on reassembly.

                                               TYPE B


                                                                          (13) These base plate thread
                                                                          guides can be moved to the right
                                                                          - if the the bobbin winds too
                             7                                            heavily on the left side - and vice
                                                                          versa, then locked in position.
(7) The guide is held against the
elliptical cam by a spring, so                                    10      There is also often a second cot-
when the cam rotates the guide                                            ton reel holder on the base plate
returns with a sweeping action,     (10) Type B has a winder and          for bobbin winding.
distributing the cotton evenly      release mechanism but no thread
along the drum of the bobbin.       guide. It was fitted to 201s and      It is important to clean this area
                                    later models of the 66, 99 & 15K.     but be careful about oiling. Over
                                                                          oiling could negate the tension
                                                                          by allowing the cotton to slip.

                                                                                     TYPE C

(8) On some bobbin winders the
cam is fixed behind the gear        (11) This modification dispensed
wheel (as shown here) but the       with the complicated thread lay-
principal is the same.              ing device and introduced a base                                   14
                                    plate bracket.

                                                [2] D - 2

2                          BOBBIN WINDER - TYPES & FUNCTION         2

           TYPE C
(14) This simple winder - without
thread guide or release - relies on
the operator to stop when the
bobbin is full.

It uses the same brackets on the
base plate to deliver the thread to
the bobbin. When in use, the
operator pushes the arm down
on to the balance wheel.


(15) Make sure the screw holding
the arm is tight enough to keep
the arm on the balance wheel.

Apart from oiling, cleaning and
checking the rubber ring, there
should be no other problems.

Type C has a spring fitted in the
bobbin shaft which provides
enough resistance to keep the
bobbin in place while winding.

It was fitted to electric machines
and recent models of the manual

                                        [2] D - 3

2                           BOBBIN WINDER REFURBISHMENT                                                     2

                                    The rubber wheel has to be in          What follows is a breakdown of
                                    perfect condition and must be          the most commonly found faults,
                                    replaced if it is hard and cracked,    of Type A and Type B, together
                                    or spongy and loose on its rim.        with suggestions of how to reme-
                                                                           dy them:

                                                                                 Pin Badly Worn


(1) Undo the single attachment
    screw and remove the                                                       Change the bobbin winder if
    bobbin winder assembly                                                 you have an available spare, oth-
    from the machine.                  4                                   erwise make a note on the Netley
                                                                           refurbishment form.

                                    (4) Clean all the components
                                        and lightly oil all the moving           Worm Gear does not engage
                                        parts.                                   with cam gear, or won’t turn.

                                    This may be all that is necessary.
                                    Remove all traces of oil from the
                                    drive wheel before replacing (or
                                    renewing) the rubber wheel. Oil
                                    rots rubber - therefore do not
                                    over-oil the mechanism.

  2                                 Also, to avoid the wheels slipping,
                                    take a clean dry cloth and wipe
(2) Sometimes the bobbin            the inside flange of the balance
    winder is held on by two        wheel where it comes into con-
    screws which are only visible   tact with the rubber wheel.
    when the balance wheel is
    removed.                        If there are no problems you can
                                    re-attach the unit to the machine
If the bobbin winder appears to     and move on to the next section.
be in good working order, it is
better to avoid taking it apart.    If the bobbin winder unit is really
                                    dirty in places you can’t get to, or
                                    if the components do not move
                                    smoothly or do not perform the
                                    functions properly then you will
                                    have to dismantle it.

                                      FAULTS & SOLUTIONS

                                    Some problems with the bobbin          (5) Loosen the nut at the back of
                                    winder may not become appar-               the eccentric screw.
  3                                 ent until you have reassembled
                                    the handle and balance wheel              Turn the screw until the
(3) Remove the rubber wheel.        and begun the sewing test proce-       worm gear engages with the cam
                                    dure.                                  gear without binding.
This small rubber wheel on the
end of the bobbin winder spindle    Luckily, the most frequently           Re-tighten the nut, making sure
is pressed against the balance      found and complicated bobbin           the screw doesn’t move, and re-
wheel to pick up the momentum       winder unit Type A, can be             check.
when the handle is turned.          removed independently.

                                                [2] D - 4

2                           BOBBIN WINDER REFURBISHMENT                                                      2

                                     Put the thread guide back on top
    Thread guide does not follow                                                  The rubber wheel is still
                                     and locate the other end of the
the cam.                                                                          not pressing firmly enough
                                     spring in the hole in the thread
                                                                                  against the balance wheel.

                                     The thread guide must be turned
                                     anticlockwise, pointing well over
                                     to the left - as it was (see 6) when
                                     you dismantled it.

                                     When you have replaced and
                                     tightened the screw, make sure
                                     the thread guide lever moves
                                     freely with the tension from the

                                     Replace and adjust the cam as           10
                                     already explained (see 5).
    The answer may be a missing                                             (10) Try loosening the pressure
or damaged spring under the                                                      screw and the pivot screw
                                           The rubber wheel does not
screw in the base of the guide.                                                  very slightly and levering
                                           turn when pressing on the
                                                                                 the pressure arm upwards
                                           balance wheel.
                                                                                 using a screwdriver

(6) First undo the cam screw
    and remove the screw, nut,
                                     (8) Loosen the pressure control
    wheel and washer.                                                        11

                                                                                  The rubber wheel stops
                                                                                  turning before the bobbin
                                                                                  is full.

                                                                                 This should also be cured by
                                                                            getting the correct pressure
                                                                            between the rubber wheel and
                                                                            the balance wheel

                                                                            (11) With the pressure screw and
  7                                                                              the pivot screw very slightly
                                                                                 loosened tap gently down-
                                                                                 wards on the pressure arm
(7) Now undo the thread guide                                                    with a punch or screwdriver.
                                     (9) Re-tighten the screw whilst
    screw and remove the guide
                                         pressing the rubber wheel
    lever and the spring.
                                         firmly against the balance
                                                                                  The bobbin does not turn
    When replacing the spring                                                     with the shaft.
you will see that one small bent
                                         You may need to repeat this            If the pin on the spindle
end locates in a pin hole in the
                                     until you get the tension between      shoulder is okay (see previous
lever housing the other end of the
                                     the two wheels just right for easy     page) the bobbin may not be
spring has a short tail.
                                     turning action.                        engaging with it.

                                                  [2] D - 5

2                                BOBBIN WINDER REFURBISHMENT                                                     2

This probably means the stop
                                                 The winder still does not lift
latch is not holding the bobbin
                                                 off when the bobbin is full.
close enough to the right end of
the shaft.
                                           It may be that lifting spring is
                                           missing or not correctly fitted
                                           and you will need to dismantle
                                           the Bracket Assembly.


                                                                                  16 Detach the latch from the
                                                                                     pressure arm.
                                                                                      Now replace any missing,
(12) Using a pair of pliers, bend                                                 worn or broken springs or parts
     the stop latch slightly to the         14                                    and reassemble.
                                           14 Remove the pressure screw,
                                              then release the pivot screw
       The winder does not lift off
                                              and detach the assembly
       when the bobbin is full.
                                              from the bracket.
This could be for one of two rea-
                                           The whole assembly is actually
                                           pivoted and sprung at two points.
                                           The main one is the lifting spring,
                                           located in a housing at the end of
                                           the lifting arm.


                                                                                  17 Re-connect the latch and
                                                                                     the pressure arm with no
                                                                                     tension in the spring.

                                                                                  The next part is tricky - but this
                                                                                  tip will make it a little easier:
 13                                        As with the thread guide assem-
                                           bly, this spring also has the two
                                           ends bent at right angles to locate
                                           in retaining holes.
     Hopefully, it may simply be -
that with years of use - the stop
latch has been bent backwards
slightly and, if this is so, it is easi-
ly corrected.

(13) Bend the stop latch slightly

     When an empty bobbin is
slid on the shaft and the winder
pushed down in the engaged                                                         18
position, there should only be a
very small gap between the stop
latch and the bobbin core.                  15                                    18 Place this sub assembly on
                                                                                     the bracket and - just for
This is to make sure the bobbin                                                      now - put the pivotal screw
                                           15 Detach latch and pressure
winder will snap off before the                                                      through the arm and
                                              arm from the lifting arm.
bobbin is over-wound.                                                                tighten.

                                                        [2] D - 6

2                            BOBBIN WINDER REFURBISHMENT                                                     2

                                      As the complete unit is reassem-      The spring can (If you’re lucky)
                                      bled the long tail of the spring is   be persuaded to fit inside the
                                      pushed round to create the pres-      recess completely, making the
                                      sure to release the winder when       rest of the assembly easier.
                                      the bobbin is fully wound.


(19) Put the pressure screw
     through the slot in the arm
     and screw tightly home into
     the bracket.


                                       Here’s a reminder of the assem-
                                       bled unit (back view) to see the
                                        ultimate position of the spring
                                        tail resting against the bend in
                                                      the pressure arm.

                                            At this stage the spring tail
                                       comes to rest against the shoul-
 20                                    der of the cutaway in the side of
                                                        the deep recess.
(20) Now, with the assembly held
     firmly in place, remove the      Sometimes the spring does not
     pivotal screw.                   stay in the recess and prevents       (22) Hold the two halves of the
                                      the screw tightening properly,             frame assembly together
                                      but with patience and practice             (against the pressure) and
                                      the whole assembly will rotate             push the pivotal screw back
                                      round the pivotal screw again.             through the frame and screw
                                                                                 into the bracket again.

                                          The thread does not lay
                                          evenly on the bobbin.


(21) Pick up frame assembly and
     place spring into the deep
     recess - again locating the
     end of the spring in the hole.   First check that the bobbin shaft
                                      is turning the cam and that the        23
                                      thread guide is following the cam
                                                                            (23) Using a pair of pliers,
                                           If these are working properly,        carefully bend the thread
                                      it could be that the thread guide          guide so that it is centred
                                      has been bent so that it does not          between the cheeks of the
                                      traverse the full width.                   bobbin.

                                                  [2] D - 7

2           REFURBISHING - BALANCE WHEEL: DISMANTLE & CLEAN                                                     2

Standard Spoked Wheels:

When engaged, the balance
wheel transmits the power from
the handle (or treadle) to run the
machine. The combined weight
and spinning motion helps
smooth out the action.

When disengaged from the main
transmission, the balance wheel
is used to drive the bobbin winder.
                                        4                                     7
                                      (4) Draw the balance wheel off        (7) ...or, if you have one, use a
                                          its spindle then clean and oil        Gear Puller like the one
                                          spindle and wheel bearing.            illustrated above.

                                      If the wheel is tight on the shaft,   You may need to reverse the arms
                                      try easing it by liberally applying   so the hooks are pointing out-
                                      penetrating oil.                      wards and can lock on the rim of
                                                                            the balance wheel through the
                                      If the outer rim of the balance       spokes.
    1                                 wheel is badly pitted or rusted, a
                                      replacement wheel may be the          Solid & Larger Size Wheels:
(1) Slacken the small pin screw       best solution.
    in the face of the shiny                                                Machines with spoked balance
    knurled hub disc - known as                                             wheels are designed for use with
    the stop motion screw.                                                  handles and/or treadles.


                                      (5) If the balance wheel is really
                                          stuck, place a block of wood
                                          beneath the needle bar.

                                      This prevents the machine from
                                      turning while you work the bal-
                                      ance wheel free. Do not use
                                      excessive force because there is a      8
                                      danger of disrupting the timing.
                                                                            (8) Some very early machines
(2) Unscrew the stop motion                                                 have balance wheels with a thick
    screw hub disc.                                                         rim like the one shown. This can
                                                                            sometimes preclude the oppor-
                                                                            tunity of inter-changing handles
                                                                            from some other later models.


    3                                 (6) If the wheel is still seized
                                          on the shaft, turning it
                                          slowly whilst tapping
(3) Remove and clean the odd              gently with a fibre mallet          9
    shaped clutch washer.                 should dislodge it...

                                                  [2] C - 1

Some machines are designed to        All is not lost in this case, as we
be driven solely by a belt and       can use any long base machine -
have a solid balance wheel like      15K, 66 or 201- for a treadle base,
the one shown.                       releasing a spoked balance wheel
                                     machine for conversion to hand.
(9) Dismantle and draw a solid
    wheel off its spindle in the     Again, a few solid balance wheels
    same way as a spoked one.        have an indented notch cut in
                                     them to allow a handle to be fit-
These solid balance wheels have      ted.
a larger diameter flange for the
bobbin winder to work on than
the spoked wheels.                                                            14

We cannot therefore just substi-
tute a spoked wheel, as the bob-                                           (14) Now the clamp stop motion
bin winder cannot be adjusted to     We do not recommend that this         (or clutch) washer has been
engage with the spoked balance       conversion is attempted on other      added and you can see how the
wheel.                               machines such as 99 and 185.          two inside lugs fit into the two
                                                                           notches at the end of the shaft.

                                                                           Notice how these lugs bend out-
                                                                           ward from the bushing. This is
                                                                           important because it provides a
                                                                           creeping action for tightening the

                                                                           In other words, the clamp stop
                                                                           motion washer acts like an ordi-
                                                                           nary spring washer except that it
                                                                           is not designed to lock into posi-
 10                                                                        tion.
                                                                           If the lugs are pointed inward
(10) Check if the bobbin winder                                            there is no ‘give’ to the washer at
     attaches at the top of the      (12) The picture above shows the      all. It locks almost instantly and is
     machine.                        Balance Wheel (stop motion)           likely to work loose when the
                                     bushing on the end of the end of      machine is working.
If so, the balance wheel and the     the driveshaft.
bobbin winder can be changed as                                            Exact adjustment of the stop
a pair. If you do not have spares,   What concerns us is the opera-        motion washer is an easy matter
note it on the refurbishment         tion and adjustment of the clutch     if the clutch is understood.
record on the outside of the case    mechanism which is common to
and Netley Marsh will change it.     all the machines we send.


 11                                   13
                                                                           (15) This picture shows the
                                                                           reverse side of the hub disc and
(11) In most cases you will find     (13) Here we see the end of the       the stop pin screw that threads
that the bobbin winder attaches      bushing, projecting through the       through the hole.
by screws at the side of the         hub of the balance wheel. Notice
machine behind the balance           particularly the notches at the
wheel.                               end of the bushing.

                                                 [2] C - 2


    16                                 18

(16) When threaded into position     (18) If, when the hub is screwed
the end of the screw projects far    in to its maximum, it is still not
enough through the hole so it        tight enough - you will have to
can strike against the outside ear   remove the clutch washer and
lugs.                                turn it through 180 degrees.

When winding a bobbin it is          The dotted lines show how by
desirable to have the balance        doing this you get six times more
wheel run free, and not turn the     movement between the pin and
driveshaft which operates the        the ear lug which allows the
machine.                             thread of the hub screw to bite
                                     deeper and increases the pressure.
Imagine you could see what was
happening behind the disc...         When you replace the stop
                                     motion screw, you can have no
To help you understand, the          idea whether you have located
action the following photos are      the washer correctly.
mirror images.
                                     However, it will soon become
                                     obvious. If it isn't right, take off
                                     the screw, turn the washer round
                                     180O and try again.


(17) The hub disc is unscrewed
(anti-clockwise) releasing the
pressure until the pin clicks          19
against an outer ear lug, stopping
the hub from undoing completely.     (19) It is much easier to fit the
                                     washer and screw if you tip the
When the bobbin is wound, the        machine up on to its end.
operator turns the clamp stop
hub screw clockwise and, in so
doing, tightens the clutch.

The white lines added to photo
(16), show where the tips of the
projecting sprung lugs rub
against the inside surface of the
hub screw.

                                                 [2] C - 3

2                                               THE HEAD                                                   2

Particularly bad areas for an                                            each of these and also on all
accumulation of gummed oil and                                           other moving joints. Do not
fluff are inside the Lower Bobbin                       Presser Bar      overoil, as the surplus oil can run
housing and inside the Head. The                        Thumb Screw      down the needle bar, spoiling the
Head is often worse because it is                                        workpiece.
less frequently opened and seen.                                          Presser


                                    (3) Make sure the thread of the
                                        Pressure Bar Regulating                Cover
                                        Thumb Screw is oiled and               plate
                                        the screw is easy to turn.              hole
                                    On the 15K, 66 & 201 you will see    (5) When lowered, make sure
                                    that the the regulating thumb            the slot in the foot does not
                                    screw is hollow or sealed with a         foul the cover plate hole.
                                    fibre plug. You should apply a
                                    couple of drops of oil either into   A swivel adjustment of the
                                    the hole or onto the plug.           presser bar and presser foot can
                                                                         be achieved by loosening the
                                                                         spring bracket screw.


(1) First loosen the head screw
    (if there is one), then
    unscrew the thumb screw
    and lift off the face plate.


                                                                         (6) Make sure the needle is
                                                                             centred over the cover
                                      Presser                Needle          plate hole.
                                         Bar                 Bar

                                                                         If there is a problem it could be
                                                                         due to a bent needle, or the
                                                                         needle not locating properly in
                                    (4) Oil all the moving parts as      the needle clamp. Always fit a
                                        indicated by the black           new needle.

                                    As you can see from the
                                    illustration, most of the moving
                                    parts are associated with the
                                    levers that convert the rotating
                                    movement of the drive shaft into
                                    the up and down movement of                                        7
                                    the needle bar.
                             2                                           (7) To adjust the needle, first
                                    On top of some of these small            raise the needle bar to its
(2) Thoroughly clean inside the     hinge bearings you will see an           highest point by turning the
    head cavity.                    oiling hole. Put a drop of oil in        balance wheel towards you.

                                                 [2] G - 1

2                                                 THE HEAD                                                   2

Now release the clamp screw very                                             Too little pressure on the presser
slightly and check that the needle                                           foot (especially when sewing
is squarely secure and pushed                          Presser Bar           thick or compact material) can
fully up in the clamp before re-                       Thumb Screw           result in shorter stitches than set
tightening.                                                                  as the feed dog fails to grip the
                                                                             fabric firmly.
If the needle still fouls the hole
try a new needle and if the                            Presser Bar
                                                                             Also, with too little pressure, the
problem persists you will have to                      Spring                the presser foot may not hold the
examine the clamp itself which                                               fabric properly and it will pucker.
we explain shortly.
                                                                             Too much pressure will impose a
At this stage, if everything                                                 drag when operating the machine
connected with the Head is clean                       Presser Bar           and induce wear on the teeth of
and working properly - and you                         Bracket               the feed dog.
have successfully ticked all five
items on your check list you are                                             To insert, remove or adjust
ready to move on to the next                                                 material from under the presser
section dealing with the Lower                         Presser Bar           foot the bar has to be raised using
Bobbin Area.                                           Bracket               the presser bar lifter lever.
If you have any remaining
problems read on:                                      Cutter

When the face plate is removed
four areas of the sewing machine
                                                       Presser Foot
are revealed inside the Head:                          attaches here
1. TENSION RELEASE.                                                                                    nut
   & TIMING ADJUSTMENT.                                                        Presser
                                                                        9          Bar
3. PRESSER BAR ACTION.                 Presser
                                        Foot                                 (10) Feel the difference in the
1. TENSION RELEASE:                     Throat                                    pressure on the lifter arm
                                        Plate                     (fabric)        with the thumb nut screwed
We have already discussed the                                                     fully in and then fully out.
Upper Thread Tension Release in
the previous section.                                                        If there is little noticeable
                                                                             difference in pressure, it may be
                                                     Feed Dog                that the spring needs replacing.
   & TIMING ADJUSTMENT:                (9) The presser foot, attached to
                                       the end of the presser bar, presses
The needle height can be               down on the fabric holding it in
adjusted      although     seldom      contact with the feed dog. This
required. Most machines also           enables the feed dog to grip and
include timing marks to adjust         pull the material forward for the
the overall timing of the machine.     next stitch.
However, as these features will
seldom be needed, they are left        The pressure applied by the
until the Fault Finding section.       presser foot is adjusted by the
                                       presser regulating thumb screw
                                       at the top of the presser bar.
3. PRESSER BAR ACTION.                                                        11
                                       This knurled control is turned
(8) The presser bar is an adjustable   clockwise to increase the amount
spring loaded component central        of compression on the presser         (11) With the 15K, 66 and 201
to the fabric control function of      bar spring and anticlockwise to       models the spring can be seen on
the machine.                           reduce it.                            the outside of the Presser Bar.

                                                   [2] G - 2

2                                              THE HEAD                                                      2

                                      Setting the Presser Bar Lifter:        Before tightening the presser bar
                                                                             bracket screw, make sure that the
                                      It is important that there should      presser foot is not fouling the
                                      be a small amount of ‘free play’ in    needle hole. If necessary, rotate
                                      the action of the presser bar Lifter   the foot until it is clear.
                                      when the presser foot is down.

                                      This ‘free play’ makes it certain
                                      that the downward spring pres-
                                      sure is on the material beneath
                                      the presser foot instead of on the
                                      top of the presser bar lifter.
                                      If the bar and foot start to lift
                                      straight away when the lever is        (16) The metal clip attached to
                                      raised you need to work through        the end of the presser bar above
                                      the following adjustment proce-        the foot is a simple Thread Cutter.
                                      dure: - first making sure the teeth
                                      of the Feed Dog are below the          It is occasionally necessary to
                                      surface of the Needle Plate:           remove the presser foot to
                                                                             thoroughly clean the end of the
    12                                                                       presser bar and the foot itself.

(12) To replace the spring, undo
     the thumb nut completely
     and slide out the old spring.


                                      (14) Loosen the Presser Bar
                                           Bracket Screw.


                                                                             (17) Raise the Presser Bar and
                                                                                  the Needle Bar, loosen the
                                                                                  knurled thumb screw and
                                                                                  remove the Presser Foot


                                      (15) With the presser bar release
                                           lever down, lift the presser       18
                                           foot slightly by hand and
                                           insert the blade of a small
 13                                        screwdriver between the           (18) The standard foot has been
                                           presser foot release lever        designed for easy detachment
(13) With the 99 model, the top of         and the presser bar bracket.      from the end of the presser bar
the spring is attached to a rod                                              because it is interchangeable
and then encased inside a tube.       Let the presser foot down again,       with other styles like the Hemmer
                                      check the presser foot is clear of     Foot shown above.
It is removed in the same way by      the needle hole and tighten the
undoing the thumb nut com-            presser bar bracket screw.             There is also a range of acces-
pletely. If you do not have a spare                                          sories designed for specific tasks.
spring please highlight the           Check that there is the required       These are attached to the end of
compression problem on your           small movement of the presser          the presser bar in place of the
check list and we will remedy it at   bar release lever before contact-      standard foot and are discussed
Netley.                               ing the presser bar bracket.           in detail in a later section.

                                                  [2] G - 3

2                                              THE HEAD                          2


                       Thread take
                          up lever


(19) On occasion you may
encounter a machine with a
broken or badly bent Thread Take
Up lever which needs replacing.

Because this is infrequent - and a
tricky operation on certain
models - we describe the action
required in the fault finding

Needle Clamping:                        22

The last area we need to look at is
the needle clamp. This can            (22) The latest and most
usually be successfully cleaned in    complicated system has a small
situ using a tooth brush. If you do   thread guide component located
have cause to dismantle it, you       inside the needle clamp - and the
should be aware of the slight         clamp itself is secured to the bar
variation between models.             with a small grub screw.

                                      When re-assembling it is easiest
           End of                     to seat the thread guide in the
       Needle Bar                     clamp then slide both upwards
         locating                     onto the needle bar - then insert
       groove for                     and tighten the grub screw.
            top of
                                      The thumb screw is then required
                                      to secure the needle. It presses on
                                      the anvil end of the thread guide
                                      which in turn presses on the side
                                      of the top end of the needle.
  20                                  It is worth a reminder here that
                                      the flat side of the needle on the
                                      201 machines should face to the
(20) The illustration above shows     left (away from the machine). On
the simplest form of needle           all the other models the flat side
clamp as fitted to early 99 and 66    faces right (inwards towards the
models.                               machine).

(21) A later modification             If you get this wrong the machine
included a thread guide attached      simply won’t sew, for reasons
to the back of the Needle Bar with    explained in the first section on
a small screw.                        ‘How a sewing machine works’..

                                                  [2] G - 4

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