Pristina In Your Pocket

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					  Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

                            Spring - Summer 2011

                                                   Battlefield memorials

                                                   Pristina’s cafés and

        N°4 - €4
Homeowners Association

               Homeowners Association is
                offering houses for rent.

             If you feel like renting in the one
              and only organized community
                   in Pristina, please call

              044 12 00 12
                 The International Village,
                located just 5 minutes drive
             from downtown Prishtina is an
               ideal location for your home.
              Tucked away on this beautiful
              property are three main types
                of houses that offer privacy
                without sacrificing a vibrant
             community with charm around
             every corner. Along with it we
              offer a swimming pool, tennis
              and basketball court, gym and
                       running track.

                If you enjoy high quality of
                life in a private and healthy
                   environment and want
                  to provide the best living
              conditions for your family we
             would be proud to welcome you
             as a member of our community.
                                                        CONTENTS                    5

 Contents                                        the new
 Arriving                                   8
                                                 In Your Pocket
                                                 iPhone App...
 Visas, streets, money and electricity

 Culture & Events                          10
 Cinemas, theatres, concerts

 Where to stay                             12
 From business hotels to backpacker beds

 Restaurants                               17
 Greasy burek to gourmet dining

 Cafés & Nightlife                         24
 Bars, pubs and clubs

 What to see                               29
 Mosques, museums and a map

 Gazimestan                                34
 Memorials to the Battle of Kosovo

 Getting around                            35
 Planes, taxis and trains

 Language                                  36
 Speak shqip

 Mail & Phones                             38

 Shopping                                  39

 Directory                                 41

 Maps & Index
 Country map                                47
 City map                                48-49
 Index & Street register                    50

    Pristina, Prizren and soon                   Download Europe’s best
    also Peja In Your Pocket                     city guides from itunes
        In print and online at                                    Spring - Summer 2011
6        FOREWORD
    Three years after declaring independence,
    Kosovo is experiencing how hard it can be to go               About this guide
    it alone. Youth unemployment is still sky-high due            The Pristina In Your Pocket city guide is the only dedi-
    to a faltering economy, it remains one of a few               cated English-language guidebook to Kosovo’s capital,
    countries in the region subject to strict visa rules,         and is part of a Europe-wide series of acclaimed city
    and many of its politicians are as unreliable as              guides. In Your Pocket guides are written for foreign
                                                                  travellers and residents, to provide honest, critical infor-
    can be expected in the Balkans. Yet for travellers            mation that makes visiting the city easier for newcomers.
    Kosovo is one of the more interesting, scenic and             As a private and commercial initiative, Pristina In Your
    affordable destinations in the region. What it lacks          Pocket has been written and researched by a team of
    in coastline scenery it makes up for in the mountain          local and foreign travel guide experts. The opinions in the
                                                                  guide are those of the writers, and are not in any way
    and cultural heritage departments, and every visitor          meant to glorify or denigrate the city, merely to point
    is pleasantly surprised at Pristina’s friendly café,          out the merits and shortcomings that we think foreign
    food and nightlife scene. So it’s no surprise that            travellers should know about. Although we realise the
    Kosovo made it into the “41 places to go in 2011”             local name for the city is spelled Prishtina, in this guide
    list in the New York Times, where its “mountains,             we use the official English spelling for the city name,
                                                                  Pristina, as described in article 13 of the Constitution of
    medieval Slavic and Ottoman architecture and                  Kosovo. Every guidebook has its faults, so we appreciate
    unexpected night life” were highly recommended.               any information that would lead to improving the next
    In this issue of Pristina In Your Pocket we highlight         issue. Emails can be sent to
    the two impressive war monuments at Gazimestan,
    just north of town, and have reams of new hotel,
    café, restaurant and bar reviews. Those of you                Lidhur me këtë udhëzues
    toting iPhones will be happy to hear that we’ll               Udhëzuesi i qytetit Pristina In Your Pocket (‘Prishtina në
    launch a Pristina iPhone app in the coming months             xhepin tuaj’) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën angleze që i
    containing the full content of the guide, keep an eye         dedikohet kryeqytetit të Kosovës, dhe është pjesë e një sërë
    on our website for              udhëzuesve të njohur të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën. Udhë-
    more details. As always, comments about the guide             zuesit in your pocket janë dizajnuar për udhëtarët e huaj dhe
                                                                  banorët, por thjeshtë që të sigurojnë informata të sinqerta kri-
    and the venues we review are welcome via the                  tike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet më të lehtë për të sapoardhurit.
    website or                         Si një iniciative private komerciale, Pristina In Your Pocket
                                                                  është shkruar dhe hulumtuar nga një ekip i ekspertëve vendor
                                                                  dhe të huaj të udhëzuesve të udhëtimit. Mendimet në udhë-
     Cover story                                                  zues vijnë nga shkrimtarët, dhe në asnjë mënyrë nuk kanë për
                                                                  qëllim që të lavdërojnë apo denigrojnë qytetin, por thjeshtë
                     Located in what remains of Pristina’s        që të tregojnë meritat dhe mangësitë të cilat ne mendojmë
                     old city centre, the grand Austrian-era      se udhëtarët e huaj duhet t’i dinë. Ndonëse e kemi vërejtur
                     Kosovo Museum building houses the            që emri i qytetit është shkruar Prishtina, në këtë udhëzues
                     country’s most important archaeo-            ne kemi përdorur anglishten zyrtare për emrin e qytetit
                     logical artefact, the Hynesha në Fron        Pristina, siç është paraparë në nenin 13 të Kushtetutës së
                     (‘Goddess on a throne’) statue. The          Kosovës. Çdo udhëzues i ka të metat e veta, prandaj ne do
                     museum is well worth a visit, see page       të çmonim çdo informatë që do të çonte në përmirësimin
                     29 for more details.                         e botimit të ardhshëm. E-mailet mund të dërgohen në

                                             Editorial                                  Copyright notice
                                            Editorial management                       Text and photos copyright Pristina In
                                   Jeroen van Marle, Sco     Your Pocket 2006-2011. Maps copyright
                                            Research Kaltrina Hoxha, Rrita Pula        cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
                                            Layout & Design Tomáš Haman                of this publication may be reproduced
     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                           in any form, except brief extracts for
     © Albania Experience Sh.P.K            Photos, cover Jeroen van Marle             the purpose of review, without written
     c/o Tirana In Your Pocket              Photo contributors Ivan Adams              permission from the publisher and
     Rr. Elbasanit, Nd.10, H.5,             (,                   copyright owner. The brand name In Your
     1010 Tirana, Albania                   Greta Howard (       Pocket is used under license from UAB
     Tel: +355 4 225 56 55                  Maps Trimaks Kartografia, Skopje           In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
     Fax: +355 4 227 19 60                                                             Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).               Sales & Distribution                                                               Editor’s note
                                            Manager Vullnet Malazogu
                                                                                       The editorial content of In Your Pocket
                                  ,         guides is independent from paid-for
     ISSN 1819-2890                         tel. +377 45 59 50 01
     Printing Evropa 92, Kocani                                                        advertising. We welcome all readers‘
                                            Publishers Gazmend Haxhia,                 comments and suggestions. We have
     Published 10,000 copies,               Jeroen van Marle, Sco
     twice a year                                                                      made every effort to ensure the accuracy
                                                                                       of the information at the time of going to
                                                                                       press and assume no responsibility for
                                                                                       changes and errors.

    Pristina In Your Pocket                                                             
8          ARRIVING
    By plane                                                             Public holidays
    Pristina’s modern international airport (PRN, www.airport- is 15km west of the city centre. The arrivals          The days when even the people who have jobs stop
    hall is separate from the other buildings and not a happy            working.
    place, but the departures building has ATMs and other                1-2 Jan         New Year
    services (see Transport). A taxi ride to the centre will cost        7 Jan 2012      Orthodox Christmas
    about €25 and takes about 20 minutes. The airport bus                17 Feb          Independence Day
    from right outside the arrivals terminal to the Grand Hotel in       28 March 2011 Catholic and Orthodox Easter
    the city centre theoretically departs daily at 09:00, 11:00,         9 Apr           Constitution Day
    13:00, 15:00, 17:00 and 18:00; a ticket costs €3 and can             1 May           Labour Day
    be purchased on the bus.                                             9 May           Europe Day
                                                                         29 Aug 2011     Eid Al-Fitr (Ramadan)
                                                                         5 Nov 2011      Eid Al-Adha
    By train                                                             28 Nov          National flag day
    Trains from Skopje and within Kosovo all pass through Fushë          25 Dec          Catholic Christmas
    Kosovë train station, which is Kosovo’s main railway hub,
    seven kilometres west of central Pristina. Hop onto a N°1
    kombi minibus outside, which goes to the eastern end of              Street smarts
    Bul. Bill Clinton every 5-10 minutes for €0.40. Using a taxi will
    cost around €9. Some trains, including the one from Skopje,          Street        Rruga        Highway        Autostrada
    continue to Pristina train station, which is a short walk to         Square        Sheshi       Bridge         Ura
    the centre along Rruga Garibaldi. Don’t count on any taxis           Boulevard     Bulevardi
    awaiting arrivals here.

    By bus                                                               Europe In Your Pocket
    Penny-pinchers who choose to get to Pristina by bus will be
    justly rewarded with a dilapidated bus station with nothing            Northern
    in the way of facilities beyond a couple of grotty cafés and                                           Estonia
    kiosks. There’s not even a city bus linking it to the city centre,                                               Russia
    two kilometres away. Taxis are parked outside the main exit             Ireland                       Latvia
    and a ride into the centre will cost less than €2. Alternatively,                                   Lithuania
    it’s a 20-30 minute walk: go directly north until you get to Bul.
    Bill Clinton and take a right.
    By car                                                                                   Poland
    Driving around Kosovo in daylight is fairly easy and straight-              Germany                            Ukraine
    forward, but we wouldn’t recommend a nighttime trip if it’s                        Czech
    your first time. Check with the rental company if you plan to                      Republic
    drive into Kosovo with a rental car from abroad.
                                                                         Switzerland Slovenia           Romania
      Pristina’s districts                                                                   Bosnia Serbia
      Pristina’s city centre (‘qendra’) is surrounded by low                             Montenegro Kosovo
      hills with several districts draped over them. Velania,                                                 FYR Macedonia
      to the east between the centre and Germia park has                                            Albania
      upmarket housing, the city park, and is best known                                                      Greece
      as the place where President Rugova used to live,
      and where he now lies buried. Just south of Velania
      is Bregu i Diellit, better known as Sunny Hill. South
      of the centre, Ulpiana is the high-rise modern district
      east of Bul. i Deshmoreve, Dardania is west of it. The             In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of
      narrow roads in Arbëria (also known under its Slavic               late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den
      name Dragodan), the district on the hillside west of the           Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brac
      centre, are crammed with the 4WDs of the expats and                and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Nis) and in
      embassies based here. To the north of the centre lies              Switzerland (Zurich). A new guide to Minsk, Belarus,
      Kodra e Trimave. As a foreign visitor, you’ll probably
                                                                         will be the next In Your Pocket to launch.
      only ever need to leave the centre to visit Velania, where
      there are several hotels, and perhaps Arbëria which is             We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to all our
      home to some good restaurants. A large concentration               cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket
      of cafés, bars and restaurants can be found in ‘Qyteza             guides as apps throughout 2011: to find out which ci-
      Pejton’ (Peyton city, named after the raunchy 1960s                ties we will be covering, and to keep up to date with
      drama serial, Peyton Place), the low-rise area south of            all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your
      the Grand hotel, between Rr. Garibaldi, Bul. Nënë Teresa           Pocket on Facebook (
      and Bul. Bill Clinton.                                             or follow us on Twitter (

    Pristina In Your Pocket                                                              
                                                                                                                                                          BASICS                              9

                                                                                                                            crummy as they’re not replaced as often as in eurozone
Crime & Safety                                                                                                              countries. The coins, whose design depends on in which
The well-being of honoured guests (you) is a major source of                                                                country they were minted in, come in denominations of
concern and pride for the locals, and rather than being mugged,                                                             €0.01, €0.02, €0.05, €0.10, €0.20, €0.50, €1 and €2. Cash
you’re more likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. Despite                                                              is king in Kosovo, though an increasing number of shops
the locals’ friendly attitude, it’s important to stay alert for                                                             and restaurants is getting plugged into the grid. Although
petty crime such as bag-snatching and hotel room or house                                                                   you can change money in banks and exchange offices and
burglaries. Lock up your valuables in the safe or leave them at                                                             with grinning men in black leather jackets, ATMs are really
home, and don’t wander around unlit alleys at night. Pedestrians                                                            the best way to get cash.
should be aware of holes in or bits of metal sticking out of the
pavement, missing sewer lids and surprisingly deep puddles.
Outside Pristina, if you don’t know the area, don’t leave asphalt                                                           Smoking
or well trodden paths as there still are some mines.                                                                        Smoking is forbidden in all public institutions, educational
                                                                                                                            institutions and healthcare institutions unless there’s a
                                                                                                                            designated smoking area. Most bars and cafés have some
Electricity                                                                                                                 kind of non-smoking area. And since early 2011, authorities
Electricity is the ubiquitous energy product that powers the                                                                are actually enforcing the law.
whole of Europe with the exception of Kosovo, where they’ve
chosen the rather novel approach of switching it off for large
periods of the day and night. When it works, electrical current                                                             Visas & Borders
is 220 Volts and is distributed by Kosovo’s KEK electricity                                                                 Citizens of the EU, the USA and Canada and can stay in
company via standard European plugs. There are daily                                                                        Kosovo for 90 days without further paperwork. After this
power cuts, effectively caused by nobody bothering to pay                                                                   period, extensions can be requested from the Pristina’s
their electricity bills, and nobody really willing to do anything                                                           main police office on Rr. Luan Haradinaj. Arrival formalities
about it. Electricity in Kosovo is divided into three categories,                                                           at the borders and airport are dealt with by Kosovo police
namely A, B and C. Categories are assigned according to                                                                     staff wearing large 1955 NYPD hats. As Serbia does not
how good individual areas of each municipality are at paying                                                                acknowledge Kosovo’s independence, it considers it illegal
their electricity bills. Under normal circumstances category A                                                              for anyone to be there without a valid Serbian entry stamp,
means an uninterrupted flow of the stuff. Category B is on for                                                              but as long as you enter and leave from a third country,
five hours then off for one, and category C entitles you to four                                                            there’s not much they can do about it. When travelling from
on and two off. Under so-called extraordinary circumstances                                                                 Kosovo to Serbia note that you won’t be able to leave Serbia
category A becomes B, B becomes C, and C has to suffer                                                                      any other way than back via Kosovo. Entering Serbia from
power cuts for fifty percent of the time. This makes living (and                                                            another country with a Kosovo border stamp in your passport
socialising) a bit of an adventure to say the least. The daily                                                              may result in petty harassment and a cool but otherwise
ritual of revving up the smelly little home generator outside all                                                           meaningless ‘annulled’ stamp firmly placed on top of it,
restaurants and shops is the defining and deafening sound of                                                                but little else. It’s not a problem to travel through Serbia to
Pristina. In short, bring a torch. In winter, it’s important to ask                                                         Kosovo and then leave to a third country.
if your room heater runs on electricity, and if the hotel has a
back-up generators. If you’re living here, keep in mind that if
there’s no electricity you’ll probably also lose water pressure,
so it’s a good idea to keep a few buckets of water handy just
                                                                                                                              Basic data
in case Pristina goes Stone Age just when you’re shaving.                                                                     Population
                                                                                                                              Kosovo 2,180,686 (2010 estimate)
Money                                                                                                                         Pristina 197,000 (2009 estimate)
                                                                                                                              Ethnic groups: Albanian 92%, Serb 5,3%, other 2,7%.
The euro (€, divided in 100 cents) is the official currency of
Kosovo, though Serbian dinars are also used in some Serb-                                                                     Geography
majority areas. Euro banknotes come in denominations of €5,                                                                   Kosovo is located in southeastern Europe in the central
€10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500, and can look pretty                                                                       Balkan Peninsula. Entirely surrounded by high mountains
                                                                                                                              its terrain is varied, ranging from high plains some 500
                                                                                                                              metres above sea level to hills and mountains. The
      Climate                                                                                                                 country is 10,908 km2, while Pristina covers 572 km2
                                                                                                                              and can be found between 535 and 580 metres above
      Pristina has a predominantly continental climate,                                                                       sea level. Kosovo is bordered by four countries, namely
      meaning warm summers and cold, wet winters.                                                                             Montenegro (border length 78.6km) to the northwest,
                 70                                                                                40                         Serbia (border 351.6km) to the north and northeast,
                                                                                                                              Macedonia (border 158.7km) to the south and Albania
                 60                                                                                30
                                                                                                                              (border 111.8km) to the west and southwest. The longest
                 50                                                                                20                         river in Kosovo is the Drini i Bardhë (122km) that flows
                                                                                                         temperature (°C)

                                                                                                                              through Albania and out into the Adriatic. The highest
 rainfall (mm)

                 40                                                                                10
                                                                                                                              mountain is Gjeravica (2,656m), located in the Peja region
                 30                                                                                0
                                                                                                                              in the west of the country.

                 20                                                                                -10                        Local time
                 10                                                                                -20
                                                                                                                              Kosovo is in the Central European Time zone (CET),
                                                                                                                              GMT+1 hour. When it’s 12:00 in Pristina it’s 06:00 in
                  0                                                                                -30                        New York, 11:00 in London and 19:00 in Tokyo. Central
                      Jan     Feb      Mar   Apr   May   Jun   Jul   Aug   Sep   Oct   Nov   Dec                              European Summer Time (GMT+2 hours) runs from the
                            rainfall    average daily temp. (max)     average daily temp. (min)                               last Sunday in March until the last Sunday in October.                                                                                                                                    Spring - Summer 2011
10          CULTURE & EVENTS
     Pristina’s cultural life is slowly improving after several            changes and a dictated repertoire between 1981 and 1999.
     desolate decades.                                                     In that period some directors and actors went underground
                                                                           to performed illegal plays, some performed at the Dodona
                                                                           theatre. Performances start at 20:00.
     Currently there are two small cinemas in town, though                 ODA Theatre (Teatri ODA) A-2/3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj,
     there are longstanding plans for a five-screen multiplex.             Pallati i Rinisë dhe i Sporteve, 111, tel. +381 38 24 65
                                                                           55, fax +381 (0)38 24 65 55,, www.
     Kino ABC B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 1, tel. +381 38 24 31          A small independent theatre founded in 2002
     17, Kino ABC and its sister ABC-1                   staging plays, music, film and art exhibitions, and is known
     show Hollywood releases, documentaries and occasionally               for hosting the Jazz festival every November. There’s a café
     have film festivals. Find the English-language programme on           with an art book library too. Adjacent to the car park behind
     the website. There’s a small bar with old film projectors too.        the Pallati i Rinesë complex. Q Tickets €3-7.

     Kino ABC-1 A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22
     20 86, The ABC-1 cinema has a large,
     modern hall with cheerful rainbow-coloured seating.
                                                                             Events in Pristina
                                                                             DAM Fest
     Cultural centres                                                        The International Festival of Young Musicians brings
                                                                             classical music to Pristina, with per formances by
     British Council A - 3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 6, tel.                  hundreds of musicians in various venues during March
     +381 38 243 29 21 01,,                       and April. Admission is free. Information: tel. +377 44 Travellers are welcome                   55 54 04,,
     to visit and read books and newspapers in the library. To take
     items including CDs and DVDs home, membership is required               Freedom Fest
     (€20-40 per year). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.                A music festival held on 11 and 12 June, organised by
                                                                             a local radio station. Information: bardhi@radiourban.
     Espace Culturel Français (Qendra Kulturore                              fm,
     Franceze) Bul. Nëne Tereza, tel. +377 44 30 90 94,, The French cul-                 SURF Urban Festival
     tural centre in the French departement of Pristina University           The Summer Urban Festival organises various events
     offers language courses, a library (€10 per year) with books,           throughout the city from June to August: concerts,
     CDs and DVDs, and organises events. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00,                exhibitions, workshops, etc. Information: +386 49 50
     Mon, Tue 10:00 - 15:00; 17:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.                   75 21,

     Music & Dance                                                           9/11 Dedication Festival
                                                                             The film festival that commemorates the 9/11 attacks
     Kosova Ballet (Trupa e Baletit e Kosovës) B-2, Bul.                     takes place around 11September at Pristina’s National
     Nëna Tereza 21, tel. +381 38 22 43 97. The trupa was                    Theatre. It features short films (5-30 minutes) by
     established in 1972 within the National Theatre of Pristina,            local directors, all provided with English subtitles.
     with the first 27 ballet dancers having graduated in Skopje.            Information: tel. +381 38 50 07 23, info@911fest.
     After a ten year break due to the conflict, the first ballet school     com,
     was established in 2000. The group occasionally performs
     at the National Theatre.                                                PriFilmFest
                                                                             The Pristina International Film Festival is held at the
     Kosova Philharmony & Opera (Opera e Kosovës)                            Kino ABC cinema in September. The main prize is a
     B-3, Rr. Sylejman Vokshi, tel. +381 38 24 49 39, kosova.                ‘Golden Goddess’ award; a stylish golden version of Pristina’s orchestra has about                   Pristina’s 6,000-year old Hynesha në Fron statue.
     100 members and performs irregulary.                                    Information: tel. +381 38 22 11 44, info@prifilmfest.
     Theatres                                                                Prishtina Jazz Festival
     Dodona Puppet Theatre C-2, Rr. Xhelal Mitrovica,                        In November Pristina hosts the annual Prishtina Jazz
     tel. +381 38 23 06 23, Putting                      Festival. Held in the ODA theatre, just behind the Pallati
     on puppet, children’s and youth shows since 1986, the                   i Rinise complex, there is a concert every evening at
     Dodona Theatre is very popular with the local kids. During              20:00, with bands from across the region and beyond.
     the repressive years of the 1990s, this was the only Albanian           Information: tel+381 38 24 65 55, jazzprishtina@
     cultural institution that was not completely restricted. In and,
     after 1999, the theatre did performances for child refugees
     across the region, and has also toured Kosovo villages with             Skena Up Film & Theatre Festival
     a puppet show warning children of the danger of landmines -             Skena Up, held in December, is a visual arts festival
     which perhaps explains why the puppets all have wooden legs.            with a competitive element. It’s dedicated to film
                                                                             and theatre students and aims to bring new works
     National Theatre B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza 21, tel./fax                     to a wide audience and to bring together artists and
     +381 38 24 39 30,, www.                          audiences from varying cultural backgrounds. As it Founded in 1946 in Prizren, the birth-               involves students, there’s plenty of beer and parties
     place of all cultural things Albanian, the National Theatre             too. Shows are at the National Theatre and Kino ABC
     puts on Albanian-language plays and shows. With help from               cinema. Information: tel. +381 38 72 24 63, contact
     the authorities and sponsors, the theatre has revived after   ,
     a difficult period of censorship, forced management and staff

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                   
                     LORD      HOTEL

 At Hotel Lord, our goal is to provide our guests with far more than a
 tranquil place to rest. That’s precisely why each and every one of our
22 guest rooms is gracefully appointed, boasting thoughtful amenities
                  enhanced by truly attentive service.
                    Price from 49 euros per person.

                            HOTEL LORD
                         Veternik, Prishtina, Kosova
                   Tel: +381 38 55 33 91, +377 45 322 522
12         WHERE TO STAY
     Pristina’s accommodation scene is improving; there’s
     now a good selection of mid-range and (slightly) upmarket            Symbol key
     hotels, though few rise above three-star standard. No
     international chains have dared enter the local market yet.          P Air conditioning           A Credit cards accepted
                                                                          H Conference facilities      U Facilities for the disabled
     Upmarket                                                             R Dataport                   L Guarded parking
     Ambasador B-3, Rr. Ardian Krasniqi 1, tel. +381 38 24 83             F Fitness centre             G Non-smoking rooms
     00/+381 38 24 84 00, fax +381 38 24 85 00, info@hotel-, Pristina’s                   K Restaurant                 C Swimming pool
     best hotel is defined by its elegant central atrium space that       W Wi-Fi
     is clad with natural stone. The rooms include elegant doubles,
     sweet suites and apartments with big Jacuzzi tubs in the open
     bathrooms. The fifth-floor restaurant, complete with fireplace,
     is for hotel guests only. The best surprise is the sauna area in
     the basement. Just east of the city centre, beside the Swiss
                                                                          Purchasing power
     embassy. Q 18 rooms (singles €80-92, doubles €110, suites
     €127, apartments €150). PLKDW                                        How far does your euro. pound or dollar go in Pristina?
                                                                          Exchange rates (15 Mar 2011): €1 = £0.86 = US$1.40
     Baci Bul. i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 38 54 83 56/+381 38                Product                         Price
     35 63 57, fax +381 38 54 83 58, hotel@bacicompany.
                                                                          Espresso coffee                 €0.70
     com, Baci is a modern hotel on the              Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €1.50-2
     southern end of the city, along the main road into town. Behind      Mineral water (1 litre)         €0.30
     the mirror glass facade, the wooden lobby is a grand affair with     Hamburger                       €1-2.50
     a fountain and attentive staff. Rooms are modern, standard           Cinema ticket                   €3-5
     but efficient and fitted out with showers - the only problem is      Public transport ticket         €0.40
     the street noise; take a room facing the back for peace. Free        Litre of petrol                 €1.12
     laundry service included. Q 22 rooms (singles €76, doubles           100km by bus/train              €3-5
     €100, apartments €130-180). PHARLKW

     Grand A-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 22 02 10/+377            undergoing much-needed renovations and room upgrades.
     44 72 69 13, fax +381 38 24 81 38, info@grandhotel-pr.             The spacious facilities on the lower floors attract large confer-
     com, This huge 1977 building that           ences and dinners, and there’s free wifi on the upper floors. Q
     dominates central Pristina is the main local landmark, the lobby   369 rooms (184 singles €70, 175 doubles €100, triples €120,
     a quaint relic of 1970s design. The hotel is currently slowly      2 suites €180-250, 8 apartments €200). HALKW

          Adria Hotel is among the best hotels in Kosovo, close to the embassies and international
               offices. Built in 2006, it has 7 floors designed to combine classic and modern.
                     An elegant hotel with staff that makes your stay in Kosovo special.

                                    Rruga Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, Prishtina, Tel: +381 (0)38 226 222

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                  
              In the heart of Prishtina
Located along the pedestrianised main shopping and business street of Prishtina,
the Grand Hotel is an elegant, modern hotel that is perfectly situated for easy
exploration of Prishtina's principal attractions. The hotel offers free minibar and
wifi in the rooms, various bars and restaurants. The Grand Hotel is also the ideal
           venue for business events, corporate meetings and receptions.

                                     Grand Hotel Prishtina
                          Blv. Mother Theresa, 10000 Prishtina, Kosova
                 Tel:+381 38 220-210 / 220-211 / Ext: 359, Fax: +381 38 248-138
14          WHERE TO STAY
     Prishtina A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 20, tel./fax +381                  Luxor Rr. Nazim Gafurri, tel. +381 38 60 88 88/+381 38
     38 22 32 84, reser,                    60 87 77,, www.hotelluxor.
     w w Bet ter value than most                 net. The best choice for those who appreciate peace, quiet
     others, the Prishtina is perhaps the best city centre             and jogging, the Luxor is set in the quiet green surroundings of
     hotel. It has large and modern rooms with soft beds,              Gërmia park, two kilometres east of the city centre. The large
     big TVs and free minibar. The apar tments are downright           rooms have big windows, balconies with views and come with
     swank y, each with their own sauna booth. Downstairs              proper showers. The restaurant is surprisingly good, with a
     there’s a good restaurant. Walking distance to any-               palm-lined terrace outside. Q 14 rooms (8 singles €50-90,
     where you’d need to be. Q 43 rooms (20 singles €81,               6 doubles €60-70). PLW
     4 doubles €100, 6 suites €150, 13 apar tments €116).
     PHARFLGKCW                                                        Lyon C-3, Rr. Rrustem Statovci, tel. +381 38 22 09
                                                                       97/+377 44 24 50 82,, www.
     Royal A-3, Rr. Robert Doll 3, tel. +381 38 22 09 02,     Up on the hill east of the centre, overlook-
     fax +381 38 22 09 03,, www.                ing the park, the Lyon is a decent budget option for those A modern hotel on a quiet road in Pej-         willing to take taxis or to slog up the hill. Rooms are compact,
     ton, close to bars and offices. Apart from elegant rooms, it      modern and equipped with central heating, and some have
     boasts a restaurant, bar, an underground indoor pool and          big bathtubs. The quiet rooms are at the back. On our first
     sauna. There are laundry and dry cleaning services and an         visit, the bouncy rubber lion on the reception desk suggested
     airport transfer service. Room 112 is the Nicole Kidman           the hotel name was simply an unfortunate misspelling. Q 18
     suite - it was good enough for her, so why not for you? Q 44      rooms (10 singles €35, 5 doubles €45, 2 triples €70, 1 suite
     rooms (singles €82, doubles €110, apartments €135-150).           €50 ). PALKW
                                                                       Newborn B-3, Rr. Nak Berisha 27, tel. +381 38 22 71 20,
     Victory Bul. i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 38 54 32 77/+381             fax +381 38 22 71 35, A small
     38 54 32 67, fax +381 38 54 32 86, info@hotel-victory.            and quiet retreat that’s named after the fledgling republic and
     com, Located between two busy              within walking distance of the city centre. A dozen simple but
     roads on the southern edge of town, the Victory is popular        adequate rooms in various shades of red overlook the dead-
     with foreigners. rooms are large, and the bathrooms feature       end street or the garden and come with wifi and satellite TV.
     magnificent neo-Rococco toilets that we haven’t seen any-         Q 12 rooms (singles €49, doubles €69). PLKW
     where else. Victory is easy to spot as you drive into town from
     Skopje - look for the building with the statue of Lady Liberty    Ora B-2, Rr. A.Z. Çajupi 4, tel./fax +381 38 23 37 09,
     on the roof. Q 42 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, suites        tel. +377 44 15 78 35,, www.
     €120). PHALKW                                            An excellent mid-range business hotel on a
                                                                       quiet street just north of the centre, best reached from the
                                                                       eastern end of Rruga UÇK. The Ora has good-sized rooms
     Mid-range                                                         in bright colours, a restaurant/bar and extremely dedicated,
     The mid-range hotels, with double rooms priced from €60-          friendly staff. A short walk from most international organisa-
     100 per night, offer good-value kip.                              tion offices. Q 35 rooms (19 singles €60, 4 doubles €80, 12
                                                                       apartments €80-100). PALGBKXW
     Adria Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel./fax +381 38
     22 62 22, tel. +377 44 355 366, info@hoteladria-ks.               Pandora Apartments A-2, Rr. Zagrebi 19, tel. +377 44
     com, Near to the embassy                   18 25 58. Lead the high life in the Pandora Tower’s handful of
     district and along the main road west, Adria offers great         top-floor deluxe apartments - each quite large and equipped
     views over southern Pristina from some of its well-sized          with a Jacuzzi, wifi, a free minibar and panorama windows
     rooms. The new rooms at the rear of the complex are               displaying Pristina in all its dusty glory. A short walk across
     away from the traffic noise and are fabulously kitschy,           the railway tracks to the bars and restaurants on Rruga Fehmi
     each with a different design involving plenty of Baroque          Agani. Q 5 rooms (apartments €79-109). PKW
     frills and doors with a red HAL light scanning the corridor.
     Q 17 rooms (singles €44, doubles €62, apar tments                 Pejton A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 14a, tel. +381 38 22 22
     €99). PHKW                                                        04/+377 44 30 80 80, fax + 381 38 22 22 04, info@
                                                             , Next door and
     Afa B-4, Rr. Ali Kelmendi 15, tel. +381 38 22 77 22, fax          similar to the Real, this small modern hotel has a handful of
     +381 38 24 46 82,, www.hotelafa.              nicely-furnished rooms just a short walk from the city centre.
     com. One of our favourite hotels in Kosovo, featuring friendly    Two of the rooms feature Jacuzzis, and four minibar drinks
     receptionists and some rather large and well-furnished rooms,     are on the house. Q 12 rooms (10 singles €69, 2 doubles
     Afa shines brightly above many hotels in Pristina that charge     €92). KDW
     more. Other bonuses include fast laundry service, chamber-
     maids who ask you if you’re happy with their work, discounts      Pinocchio Apartments Rr. 24 Maji 115, tel. +386
     at weekends and a super secluded garden out the back. Q           49 60 99 91, Uphill in
     52 rooms (singles €45-69, doubles €75-92, apartment €92-          the upscale Arbëria suburb, and right above the excellent
     112). PHARLKDW                                                    restaurant of the same name, Pinocchio has balconied rooms
                                                                       affording great views over town. Q 9 rooms (5 singles €55,
     Centro A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 56, tel. +386 49 80           4 doubles €85). PKW
     98 09/+381 38 60 98 09, fax +381 38 60 98 10, info@, A modern
     villa along the Pejton district’s main street has neat rooms
     arranged around a central atrium. There’s a restaurant and                 Pristina’s best hotel?
     café/bar with a terrace facing the street so you don’t even
     have to leave the hotel to enjoy Pristina’s famed café scene.              See page 44 and tell us
     Q 9 rooms (doubles €69-99). PALW

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                
                                                      20 Vaso Pasha Street
                                                             Payton Place
                                                  10000 Prishtina, Kosova
                                                 tel/fax +381 38 22 32 84

             Hotel Prishtina is located in the heart of the
             city’s most important business district. Our 43
             charming guest rooms and suites are reminiscent
             of a small hotel in the European tradition. You'll
             immediately feel at home in our living room,
             sipping a glass of wine in our fine restaurant
             surrounded by a gallery of paintings by local artists.
             The hotel offers free fast wifi internet,
             complimentary breakfast and minibar, conference
             room, swimming pool, sauna and laundry service.
             Just step out the door and you'll find art galleries,
             bars, specialty shops, theaters and restaurants, all
             within easy walking distance.

Business & Holidays...
           with Hotel Prishtina
16          WHERE TO STAY
                                                                           Velania district, up the hill east of the centre. If the guesthouse
       Apartments & Rooms                                                  is full, there are an additional 20 similar rooms in a house
                                                                           nearby. Q (singles €10-15, doubles €15-20. triples €25-30,
       Internationals looking for long-term accommodation                  apartments €25-35). W
       are advised to search carefully to avoid being fleeced.
                                                                           Princi i Arbërit Rr. Vellezerit Fazliu, tel. +381 38 24 42
       YREA (Your Real Estate Agent) tel. +381 38                          44, fax +381 38 24 44 42,,
       55 36 72/+386 49 55 01 11,, www.             A great hotel, unfortunately Fully furnished apartments in the              stuck on the northeast edge of town. The Princi has elegant,
       city centre and in Dardania, sleeping up to 5 persons at a          spacious rooms, good business facilities and a great little
       flat rate of €20-60 per night depending on the duration.            entertainment centre with pool tables, pool and even a bowl-
       Also long-term apartment rental (www.acommodation.                  ing centre. Q 23 rooms (2 singles €40, 16 doubles €50, 5                                                          suites €80-150). PHAFKDCW
       Zogu C-4, Rr. Edit Durham, tel./fax +381 38 24 44                   Sara B-1, Rr. Maliq Pash Gjinolli, tel. +381 38 23 62
       19, tel. +377 44 88 80 01,,                      03/+381 38 73 53 22,, www. An agency for budget apartment          Very good value accommodation in the
       housing, both long and short term. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,             heart of the bazaar, Sara comes with a galaxy of plain choices
       Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Apartments from €10-20               from rooms for one to three people to renovated albeit very
       per night, €250-300 per month.                                      simple apartments. Clean and basic, this hotel features lurid
                                                                           red and green corridors, a handful of satellite television chan-
                                                                           nels, a few rooms with small Jacuzzis and a garage for two
     Pllaza A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 22, tel. +381 38 22 20                    cars. Q 33 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, triples €70,
     09/+381 38 60 91 22, fax +381 38 22 33 09, info@                      apartments €60-80, suite €99). PHALKW, The fourth estab-
     lishment on Pristina’s hotel row, Pllaza has comfortable rooms        Xhema B-1, Rr. Malig jash Gjinollli, tel. +377 44 17
     with rustic landscapes on the walls and balconies. The friendly       76 65,,
     staff and a nice ground-floor café/restaurant round off the offer.    Featuring lush oriental rooms with heaps of chintzy wall hang-
     Q 12 rooms (10 singles €69, 2 doubles €92). PALKW                     ings and a distinctly feminine feel, Xhema is hidden just off
                                                                           the main road in a peaceful part of the city centre. Facilities
     Real A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 14, tel. +381 38 24 52 70,                  include cable television, the ubiquitous bazaar hotel Jacuzzi
     fax +381 38 22 50 29,, www.                      and a DVD player in the studio room. There’s no restaurant, A mirror-image of the attached Pejton Hotel,          but the surrounding area features plenty of options for eating
     the Real is a small central hotel offering small but nice rooms       out. Good value for little money. Q 7 rooms (3 doubles €25,
     with Hollywood ceilings and balconies. The renovated rooms            4 apartments €60). LW
     on the fourth floor come in delicate pastel colours. There’s
     no satellite TV in the rooms, but a couple of drinks from the
     minibar are on the house. Q 12 rooms (singles €69, doubles            Out of town
     €80). PHALKW                                                          A short drive from Pristina there are a number of good,
                                                                           affordable and often brand new hotels.
     Budget                                                                Emerald Pristina-Skopje highway, tel. +381 38 58 88
     Who said that sleeping in Pristina is expensive? It’s pos-            88,, www.emeraldhotel.
     sible to get a decent and affordable double room in or                info. Opened in early 2011, Emerald is a large, top-class
     near the city centre. here are the hotels with double rooms           business hotel located a few kilometres out of town on the
     priced under €60.                                                     Skopje road. Modern rooms have plenty of space and there
                                                                           are good conference and dining facilities. It’s also one of the
     Begolli B-1, Rr. Maliq Pash Gjinolli 8, tel./fax +381 38              few hotels with an indoor pool complex, with spa and Turkish
     24 42 77, tel. +377 44 30 80 93, info@hotelbegolli.                   baths.Q72 rooms (33 singles €89, 32 doubles €109, 7 suites
     com, Tucked away in the heart of                €160-395). PHUFLKCW
     the bustling bazaar, the Begolli is quite simply a jewel of a find.
     With lots of brass and marble in the lobby and a gaggle of            Gorenje Niti Tiki Veternik, tel./fax +381 38 55 77 00,
     charming receptionists, the rooms are literally full of eastern, Just out of
     promise, with lots of crazy colour schemes, soft, bright drapes       town, this tall building is instantly visibly along the Skopje
     all over the place and DVD players. Some rooms come with a            highway, and as you’d expect, the rooms on the top floors offer
     balcony overlooking the bazaar, whereas others feature huge           great views all round. With several modern conference rooms,
     baths or, if you’re lucky, massive sauna/Jacuzzi cabins. Q            the hotel that’s linked to the Slovenian Gorenje manufacturing
     28 rooms (singles €40, doubles €50, apartments €50-60).               group is firmly geared towards business. The restaurant near
     PHALKDW                                                               the top of the building has equally good views and lists fresh
                                                                           fish and frogs legs on the menu. Q 18 rooms (14 doubles
     Guesthouse Velania (Profesor) Rr. Emrush Miftari                      €80, 4 apartments €80). PHARLKW
     4/34, tel. +381 38 53 17 42/+377 44 16 74 55, info@, Also known                  Lord Veternik, tel. +381 38 55 33 91/+377 45 32 25
     as Guesthouse Profesor, Pristina’s cheapest accommoda-                22,, Near the
     tion is run by an affable former electronics professor. The           Skopje road south of town, Lord hath created a comfortable
     rooms in the three-storey house have a hotch-potch of                 five-storey hotel with hypoallergenic sheets, wifi and free
     furniture but are mostly spacious and adequate, each with             transportation. Deluxe rooms come with a choice of private
     satellite TV, electric heaters a private bathroom. Breakfast is       jacuzzis or sauna cabins and suites have ample space for
     not included, but rooms share well-equipped kitchens, there’s         conducting business. Q 22 rooms (singles €49-69, doubles
     a free laundry service and a few communal balconies. In the           €74-99, suites €99-139). PHRLW

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                      
                                                                        RESTAURANTS                                                     17

First impressions when scouring Pristina for something
to nibble can make you wish you’d brought sandwiches.              Symbol key
However, like so many other things in the city, don’t let
appearances fool you. A largish Balkan city populated              P Air conditioning              B Outside seating
by Albanians and rich foreigners ensures that eating               A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking
out in Pristina is deliciously varied, and more than often
excellent. Eating out is cheap too in Prishtina, with main         E Occasional live music         S Take away
courses often under €10. You’ll soon be endlessly dazzled          G No smoking                    I Fireplace
by superb salads, lashings of lamb, fabulous white cheese,
the very best of Turkish food, passable pizza and much             Restaurant prices
more besides. Ignore the battalions of beleaguered expats          As an indication of cost, in each review we’ve indicated
who tell you what a dreadful experience Pristina is, and           the average price of a main course, without drinks:
simply tuck in. Who cares if the waiter has a cigarette in         € up to €5
his mouth? He really is genuinely pleased to serve you.            €€ between €5 and €10
                                                                   €€€ over €10
Chinese Restaurant A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377            Hemingway A-4, Rr. Ilaz Kodra 9, tel. +386 49 14 56
44 38 49 28. Popular with foreigners looking to spice up         37/+377 44 14 56 37,
their meals (witness the expat trophy badges and flags on        Hemingway is tucked away in an unappealing end of the city
display), this aptly named restaurant is nicely done up with     but worth a trip if you are craving food of the piscine variety.
lanterns and painted masks. The short menu offers Chinese        It’s a pretty basic sort of set-up and relatively expensive for
classics, including dumplings, seafood and pork options, at      the setting, but undoubtedly one of the best places in town
around €5; try the sizzler plates or ask the cook (who is from   for fresh sea fish. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€
Harbin) for a recommendation. If you just can’t get enough,
the restaurant also offers foot, head, ear and other mas-        Vila Corona Rr. Shpëtim Robaj, tel. +381 38 51 70
sages, starting at €25 per hour. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun        00/+377 44 50 95 90. The quiet surroundings of Gërmia park,
12:00 - 22:00. €€ GS                                             only disturbed by the restaurant’s fountains and the soft scurrying
                                                                 of waiters’ feet, are perfect for a relaxed seafood or meat-based
                                                                 meal finished off with a Sharr cheese platter. Upmarket furnishings,
Fast food                                                        a fireplace and knowledgeable staff complete the experience.
For the local take on fast food, see the Burek listings.         Near the Luxor hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€ PTIB

Bel Ami A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377 44 13 38
48/+386 49 13 38 48. The ideal city centre stop for a            Food with a view
quick lunch or take-away snack, Bel Ami unceremoniously          Pandora A-2, Rr. Zagrebi 19, tel. +377 44 18 25 58.
serves the best chicken doner in Pristina in a surprisingly      Compared to a “twinkling 10-storey imperial destroyer from
ungreasy, smoke-free environment. Ask for the komplet to         Star Wars” by the Financial Times, Pristina’s first skyscraper
get the classic doner packed with salad and sauces and           has a panorama lift shooting you up to the top floor where
wrapped in tin foil. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00.     there’s a restaurant (serving pizza, pasta, fish and grilled
Closed Sun. € GS                                                 meat) and terrace with views. One floor up is the bar where
                                                                 customers and their drinks are stirred anti-clockwise on the
Route 66 A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22 72             rotating floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€
25/+377 44 93 86 66. A fun, bright and brash American
diner right opposite the UN compound. The menu includes
classics such as chicken burgers, buffalo wings, fajitas and     Indian
nachos, and takes the Micky out of UNMIK with its Bondsteel      Bollywood B-2, Rr. Hajdar Dushi 20, tel. +377 45 46 31
sandwich (named after the largest US military camp), and the     86/+386 49 30 41 53,
Bill Clinton enchilada (with extra chilli sauce). The platter    Bollywood’s dead-end street location and drab and dingy decor
for two is €5,50. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00.        do its decent food a disservice. If you’re desperate for a taste of
€ GBX                                                            the subcontinent, it’s certainly not bad place, with a varied selec-
                                                                 tion of Indian dishes, but it would improve considerably if they
                                                                 gave the place a lick of paint. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. €-€€ VS
Yes, you can get fresh sea fish in landlocked Kosovo - it’s      Mumtaz Mahal Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel. +377
trucked in every day from Shëngjin on the Albanian coast.        44 11 47 26. Next to the Adria hotel along the Mitrovica road,
                                                                 and overlooking the city from its high perch, Pristina’s best
                                                                 Indian restaurant serves up curries that have expats reaching
  Restaurant talk                                                for the fire extinguishers, a proper tandoor oven churning out
                                                                 tasty dishes and naan. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €
  Waiter!                 Kamarier
  A table for two         Një tavolinë për dy persona
  Non-smoking/smoking Ndalohetduhani/Lejohetduhani
  The menu please         Menyn ju lutem                         A&A B-4, Rr. Rexhep Mala 39, tel. +381 38 23 95
  I’d like to order       Do të doja ta bëja porosinë            35/+377 44 16 17 13. A small restaurant on a side street
  Do you have vegetarian food?                                   west of the centre. Smartly dressed waiters pop in and out of
                          A keni ushqim vegjetarian?             the kitchen to bring well-prepared salads, home made pastas
  Surprise me!            Më befaso                              and dishes such as pan-grilled eggplant with mint and vinegar
  The bill, please        Faturën ju lutem                       or birjani chicken. The terrace features a cool fogging system
                                                                 for hot days. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €€ PGBSW                                                                            Spring - Summer 2011
18         RESTAURANTS
     Amadeus Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel. +381 38 22
     35 00/+377 44 18 56 50, admin@restaurantamadeus.                   Burek
     com, A long-surviving
     restaurant at the foot of Arbëria hill, serving up Italian and     Burek, known to Albanians as byrek, is a flaky pastry
     Kosovar dishes. There’s traditional food like mantia and fli,      containing cheese, spinach or meat, and is the universal
     but call ahead to order as these take hours to prepare. Q          and ubiquitous Balkan snack that simply has to be tried
     €€ PBX                                                             when you’re in the region. From the Turkish bur, mean-
                                                                        ing to twist, burek is found in bakeries all over Pristina,
     Baron A-3, Rr. Garibaldi, tel. +381 38 72 00 74/+386               the most popular outlet is the Bosna chain, who have
     49 12 22 29. Set in the side of the Pallati i Rinisë complex,      a number of small shops scattered around the city.
     Baron is a large modern restaurant with a huge terrace.            Below are two of our favourites. Just ask for byrek me
     The house dish, veal steak with prosciutto ham and cheese          mish (byrek with meat) or me djath (with cheese). It’s
     comes recommended. On Wednesday and Friday evenings                best downed with ayran, a salty yoghurt drink; count on
     there’s live music. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.        paying less than €1 for a set.
     €€ PGBW
                                                                        Bosna 2 A-3, Bul. Dëshmorëve, tel. +377 44 37 54
     Chalet Denis Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, tel. +381 38 22                   36. One of this infamous chain’s less salubrious outlets,
     58 75/+377 44 79 91 18. This wooden chalet by the                  the location is at least highly central, and the long, thin
     Adria hotel offers good views of town from the terrace and         burek they sell here is out of this world. QOpen 07:00 -
     has enough seating at its wooden cartwheel chairs and              22:00. Closed Sun. € BS
     tables to feed local and international dishes to dozens
     of people. Speciality of the house is the omelet, which            Bosna 4 A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian, tel. +381 38
     basically contains ever y thing. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00.             24 59 19/+381 38 22 65 11. Great burek amidst
     €€ PGBXW                                                           extraordinarily quirky décor. Lots of shapes and colours
                                                                        in an instantly recognisable communist style. QOpen
     De Rada A/B-2, Rr. UÇK 50, tel. +381 38 22 26 22.                  07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. € BS
     Named after a romantic Albanian-Italian writer, this upmar-
     ket restaurant serves up home made pasta, fillet steaks,
     fresh bread, salads, daily specials and more. With the light
     music, some poetry and old photos on the walls, it’s a           Ex B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 3/8, tel. +377 44 55 77
     decent choice, though the waiters got bad marks from a           00/+377 44 15 70 39. A superb place for spotting Kosovo
     few PIYP readers recently. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed           politicos and other celebrities wolfing down excellent dishes
     Sun. €€ PLBXW                                                    like there’s no tomorrow. Attentive staff can advise when
                                                                      you’re wondering if you should take the Finnish beef or the
                                                                      Thai noodles with curry, the Malaysian saté or the fresh
       Menu decoder                                                   mussels, or perhaps the teriyaki... or the Indian barbecue
                                                                      chicken. Vegetarians are well catered too. Booking ahead
       Meat & Fish                Mish & Peshk                        is wise, especially for lunch. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun
       beef                       Mish lope                           16:00 - 23:00. €€
       chicken                    pulë
       lamb                       mish qeng ji                        Gagi Café B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 12, tel. +386 49 52
       pork                       mish derri                          25 11,, A
       sausage                    suxhuk                              dazzlingly modern three-storey venue with food served on
       veal                       mish viçi                           all floors, and plenty of terraces to enjoy the sun. The menu
       schnitzel                  shnitcell                           includes fresh calamari, frogs’ legs and delicious home
       fish                       mish peshku                         made cheese cake. The piano is tinkled on Thursday and
       salmon                     salmon                              Saturday. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€
       sea food                   ushqim deti                         PVEGXW
       trout                      troftë
       burger                     pleskavicë                          Gizzi Grill Pristina-Skopje highway, Grand Store mall,
       kebab                      qebapa                              tel. +377 44 65 59 66, Perhaps
                                                                      the best thing to come to Kosovo since the Ottomans, Gizzi
       Fruits and vegetables      Pemët dhe perimet                   Grill is a popular restaurant set beside the mall, serving
       apple                      mollë                               just about anything you’d like. There’s a Mexican and US
       banana                     banane                              breakfast (with pork bacon), goulash, some excellent lunch
       cabbage                    lakër                               sandwiches and burgers, steaks, salads, fish dishes and to
       carrot                     karotë                              top it all off, a selection of local cuisine. Especially popular
       eggplant                   patëllxhan                          with the after party clubbing crowd. There’s also a Gizzi
       mushrooms                  këpurdha                            Exclusive in the Kodra e Diellit district. QOpen 07:00 -
       orange                     portokall                           02:00. €€ PGBXW
       peppers                    speca
       tomatoes                   domate                              Hani i 2 Robertëve A/B-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza 3, tel.
       pickles                    turshi                              +377 44 11 72 19/+377 44 11 26 09, info@hani-
                                                            , The excel-
       Drinks                     pijet                               lent ‘two Roberts’ restaurant is a popular venue for dinners
       beer                       birrë                               and receptions. The han (inn) has grilled meat, pasta, and
       juice                      lëng                                seafood on the menu, as well as a great selection of wines.
       wine                       verë                                There’s live music every Friday. Located near the Grand,
       water                      ujë                                 behind the Zahir Pajaziti monument. Book ahead. QOpen
                                                                      08:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€ PEGBX

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                               
                   SALA THAI
                  Massage & Spa
Relax All your senses in an
     oasis of serenity
 Escape from daily life stress and pamper yourself at Sala Thai. We
 provide a full range of massage and spa treatments catered to
 your individual needs. Our team of Thailand-trained therapists
 will help you restore the peace of mind you lost in your busy life.

  Our selection of services:

  - Thai traditional massage
  - Thai herbal Massage
  - Aromatherapy
  - Swedish massage
  - Foot reflexology massage
  - Body scrub
  - Facial treatments

                                                           UÇK Stree
                                                           U   Street
   Open Every Day                         SALA THAI
                                          Massage & Spa
                                                                            Luan Haradinaj

                                                            Qafa Gallery
                                                            Q          y
 from 11.00 till 23.00                                      First Floor

Ad ess: Qafa Gallery 1st Floor, UCK St.
Addres Qafa Gallery 1st Floor, UCK St.
Address: Qafa Galler
Add       a    allery
                lle      Floor C t
                         Floor, UCK St.
                                                          Fe            E
                 Prishtina                                  hm
           Tel: 044 168 521
20          RESTAURANTS
     Home A-2, Rr. Mig jeni 1, tel. +381 38 22 40 41/+377                  lunch is €7,50 though booking ahead is recommended on
     44 33 63 36, For many expats                   weekdays. Find Pjata at the bottom end of the street. QOpen
     working in Pristina, this is as close to home as it gets - the chef   11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€ B
     cook worked in London and conjures up great breakfasts and
     divine dinners. Try the Greek chicken, the eggplant tower with        Princesha Gresa B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 23, tel. +381
     tomatoes, or a local specialities such as llokuma (wedding            38 24 58 41/+377 44 11 23 91. If you have a horse-size
     doughnuts) or përshutë (dried meat). With two small, dark             hole in your stomach to fill, this is the place to come. The
     rooms and quality music playing, the atmosphere inside is             meal starts with some free bread and dips and is followed by
     relaxed and intimate. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00             gargantuan portions of salad, meat, fish, or anything else on
     - 23:00. €€ GBXW                                                      the varied menu. The food is sometimes great, sometimes
                                                                           average but always served in massive portions. QOpen
     Lounge Food & More A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian                       10:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€ PGBXW
     C12, tel. +381 38 73 74 75/+381 38 22 62 15, www. A bustling, barn-like place that does           Renaissance II A-3, Rr. George Bush, tel. +377 44 11
     a bit of everything - sandwiches and home made pasta for              87 96. Renaissance offers arguably the best overall dining
     lunch; Italian and seafood dinners; cocktail, beer and wine           experience in Pristina. It’s quite an experience just to find
     specials at night and lavish brunches and rocking club music          the place, tucked away off a tiny alleyway, and enter the
     on weekends. Opposite the cathedral entrance. QOpen                   homely, stone building through heavy wooden doors. It’s
     07:00 - 24:00. €-€€ PGBXW                                             €15 per head, and for that you will be kept fed, watered and
                                                                           supplied with booze for at least a three course meal, includ-
     Mozaik B-3, Rr. Sylejman Vokshi, tel. +381 38 24 76                   ing a wonderful meze starter and a delicious main course
     34. A classy-looking upmarket restaurant with congenial               cooked on embers. Behind the Pro Credit Bank HQ. QOpen
     staff that’s perfect for a quiet business meal. There’s lamb,         11:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€
     grilled meats and pasta to choose from, but don’t be afraid to
     order the house speciality, the spicy Mozaik Burger. QOpen            Rings B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza 16, tel. +377 44 24 79 99,
     07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€ PLGXW                          The flagship of the local Rings
                                                                           chain has a large interior with dining and lounging happening
     Parcae A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 44 22 27                       around a central bar. Like the other Rings outlets, the food
     96. An upmarket restaurant that’s rather obviousl y                   is international, tasty and well-priced; try the beefsteak with
     owned by an architect; the space is filled with an unusual            mozzarella. For a bit of privacy you can book one of the smaller
     combination of gold, brown and red shapes and colours.                function rooms, some of them with big windows to keep an
     The Italian-inspired menu lists Filet Parcae with pershut             eye on the hoi polloi outside. Also on Rr. Luan Haradinaj (tel.
     meat, and fresh trout. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.               +381 38 24 79 99) and four other locations. QOpen 07:00
     €€-€€€ PLGBX                                                          - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. €€ PGBXW

     Pjata B-3, Rr. Gazmend Zajmi 1, tel. +381 38 22 07 39,                Select Bistro A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 1/1, tel. +377, With a modern interior                 44 69 48 11, A modest bistro
     featuring plenty of wood, paintings and shelves of wine, Pjata        and café with a touch of Ontario; the owners used to run a
     is a small but popular restaurant serving pasta, various meat         Toronto deli, and proudly serve Canadian breakfasts and
     dishes, salads and some good cakes for dessert. The set               buttermilk pancakes laced with maple syrup. Retreat to the
                                                                           non-smoking dining section to sample the cinnamon toast
                                                                           or omelette breakfasts, the beef with orange, or New York
       In the park                                                         strip steak with garlic potatoes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun
                                                                           16:00 - 23:00. €€ PAGBXW
       Gërmia Park, just east of the city centre and easily
       reached by taxi, is home to a handful of restaurants                Te Komiteti (Et Itetimok) B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 5/2,
       amidst the trees.                                                   tel. +381 38 24 96 63/+377 44 78 41 47. Though the
                                                                           name can be spelled in both directions, the food served in
       Vila Gërmia Gërmia Park, tel. +381 38 51 77                         this pleasant restaurant is strictly one-way traffic. The light
       41/+377 44 29 63 95,, www.                      lunches, daily specials, steaks, fresh fish and duck will have The most upmarket restaurant in                     you wandering off a happier person. Even if you’re just here
       Gërmia Park - and indeed one of the best in Pristina - set          for drinks (the wine selection is pretty good), you can feast
       at the top of the park road with views over the green               your eyes on the pictures of food on the walls. QOpen 08:00
       fields and forests. The ranch-like building has a large             - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€ PGBXSW
       terrace and holds various stylish dining areas as well as
       well-equipped meeting rooms for up to 100 people. The               Ultra B-3, Rr. Sylejman Vokshi 9/1, tel. +381 38 225
       house specials include steak and mixed grill, but there’s           155. Opposite Mozaik, this is another smart business res-
       also fish, pizza and local cuisine. Open from the first jog-        taurant, with a very snazzy interior that’s half post-modern
       ger to the last round of cocktails. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00.            and half exposed brick with paintings. The food on the menu
       €€-€€€ LGBXW                                                        is as varied as the design and caters well to vegetarians.
                                                                           Deliciously non-smoking. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00
       Villa Lira Gërmia Park, tel. +377 44 60 09 30/+377                  - 23:00. €€€ PGB
       44 27 15 18. The wooden building at the far end of Gër-
       mia Park lacks good views but if you’re willing to make do
       with the sight of tall trees surrounding the deck terrace,
       you can let the cuisine make up for that. The mixed grill           Arte B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 1, tel. +381 38 24 97 09.
       is very good, as are the fresh fish, steaks and wood-               Ravioli, penne, tagliatelle and more are served at this pleas-
       oven pizzas. Try the Kosovo salad, with potatoes, onion,            ant Italian bar/restaurant with its large windows and outdoor
       parsley and egg. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €€ PLB                        seating near the street corner. QOpen 07:00 - 23:30. Closed
                                                                           Sun. €€ PGBXW

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                    
                                                                            RESTAURANTS                                           21

Il Passatore C-2, Rr. Hilë Mosi 13, tel. +381 38 51
64 73. Run by the lovely Antonella, Il Passatore serves up        Lunch Cafés
excellent Italian dishes, accompanied by live music on sum-
mer Thursdays. Popular with foreign residents, it has a nice      If you’ve just read the entire restaurant chapter of this
terrace garden. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00; 19:00-23:00. Closed          guidebook and you still haven’t been served, stay calm,
Sun. €€ PEB                                                       collect your belongings and pop into one of the below,
                                                                  where food is served fresh and fast.
Osteria Basilico A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 29/1, tel. +381
38 22 54 01/+386 49 27 62 76,,               Amélie A/B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 10, tel. +377 45 69 Rustic-style Italian bistro with a           16 61/+377 45 58 05 80, amelieespressobar@gmail.
nice deck outside for al fresco dining on balmy evenings.         com. This utterly charming chain of espresso bars is not
The menu is delightfully short, helping both the clients          to be missed. One of the first places with self-service, it
and the cooks to focus on getting the best pasta, meat            has fantastic coffee, delicious soups, crepes, quiche and
and fish dishes. The results are very good indeed. Leave          pastas, as well as a dozen freshly made sandwiches to
space for the tiramisu. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.          choose from, including goat cheese and roast beef. Or try
€€ PGBXW                                                          the shakshuka, eggs with tomato-paprika sauce. Come
                                                                  early to secure a seat at lunchtime, or call the second
Pinocchio Rr. 24 Maj 115, tel. +377 44 20 29 52.                  number to have your coffee or meal delivered. Also on Rr.
An excellent Italian restaurant in the western suburb of          Perandori Justinian E1 (open 07:00-21:30) and Rr. Agim
Arbëria. The multi-level seating in the spacious wooden           Ramadani (corner Rr. Karl Gega; open 07:00-24:00, Sun
building offers great views over town, and an opportunity         closed). QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. € PVGBSW
to enjoy salads, pizza, steak, chicken dishes and grilled
fish. Impeccable service. Downstairs, a large wine bar is a       Aroma Bistro A/B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 8a, tel.
favourite venue for receptions. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. €€           +381 38 24 41 25. Featuring a fascinating array
PILGBXW                                                           of youngsters who gradually get older as the day
                                                                  progresses, this is an intriguing female-friendly chain
Proper Pizza B-3, Rr. Agim Ramadani 24, tel. +377                 bistro with good music, better than average coffee
44 13 13 10/+381 38 54 21 82, info@properpizza.                   and some of the best sandwiches in Kosovo. Wander
com, Tasty, proper pizzas, feed-             over to the buffet to point out the fresh filling, or go for
ing 1 to 4 people, delivered steaming to your table in their      a pasta or salad. Also on Bul. Nëna Tereza and Rr. Ilaz
modest restaurant, or to your home or hotel. Choose small,        Kodra. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€
medium or large, and loosen that belt. QOpen 24hrs. €             PVGBXSW
                                                                  Fresko B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 17, tel. +377 45 59 75
XIX A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 2, tel. +377 44 30 00 02,             97,, Fresko, XIX’s interior             isn’t a bad place to grab a sandwich, salad or fresh juice.
intentions are hard to grasp with the tartan tablecloths and      This place has some healthy food choices, often with
daily specials blackboard, but the food couldn’t be much          lots of rucola, which make a pleasant change from meat
better. The menu includes 18 pizzas, plus there’s good            and pastry. Their lemon and ginger ale drink is a taste
antipasto, pasta, beef and fish to boot. There’s a decent         explosion. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
wine list too, and the waiters belong to that rare perfect        10:00 - 17:00. € PVGBXS
breed who remain just the right side of attentive without
sitting on your lap. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,   Friends Sandwich Bar A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 23, tel.
Sat 07:00 - 02:00. €-€€ BW                                        +377 44 14 10 50. A neat café decorated with modern
                                                                  art that churns out sandwiches and salads at high speed
                                                                  during lunchtime hours. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed
Japanese                                                          Sun. € PGBXW
Tokyo Rr. Lidhja e Pejës, tel. +377 44 98 85 78/+377
44 37 35 37, Tokyo’s chef                Izzy’s Deli B-2, Rr. Andrea Gropa 38, tel. +381 38 71
conjures up a great set of Japanese dishes. Come on Fridays       60 06/+377 44 20 90 90. Fabulous fresh sandwiches,
when the very popular English-language karaoke evenings           made with quality Italian ingredients - to go, to deliver, or
have locals and expats warbling along to evergreen hits.          to eat in at Izzy’s simple café. There’s a wide choice of
QOpen 10:30 - 14:30; 17:30-22:30. €€ E                            cut meats, cheese and bread. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00,
                                                                  Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. € PVS

                                                                  Metro Café A-3, Rr. Garibaldi 3/1, tel. +377 44
                                                                  85 85 85/+377 44 11 30 00,,
                                                         The Metro Café provides a great
                                                                  buffet - a display case full of fresh salads and sandwich
                                                                  ingredients for you to pick. Adorned with large windows
                                                                  both at the front and back, it’s a prime people-watching
                                                                  spot too. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. € PGBXW

                                                                   Pristina’s best restaurant?
                                                                      See page 44 and tell us
                                      A café terrace in spring                                                                         Spring - Summer 2011
22          RESTAURANTS
                                                                          with well-heeled locals and foreigners who know a good thing
       Out of town                                                        when they see it. The food is prepared in the restaurant ac-
                                                                          cording to whatever the chef found at the shops that morning.
       A few very good restaurants can be found along the road            With no menu, you’re never quite sure what you’ll get, the
       to Gracanica, a ten-minute drive from the city centre.             waiter will tell you what options you have. Whatever it is, it’s
       Getting here by taxi costs under €5.                               bound to be superb. Find the unmarked restaurant on the side
                                                                          road, opposite the Outback bar, across the car park. Highly
       Country House Pristina-Podujevo road, Bërnicë e                    recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00.
       Epërme, tel. +381 38 51 52 55/+377 44 65 60 54.                    €-€€ PLGBXW
       This rustic restaurant is a 15-minute drive outside Pristina
       (on a good day) and provides glorious views across roll-
       ing, verdant hills and is especially pleasant place in the         Mexican
       summer to watch the sunset. Overall the food quality is            Cantina am/pm B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 7/1, tel. +377 44
       decent, with special notes for the fresh bread, straight           71 07 10, Cantina does a good job
       from the wood stove, and speca me maze (pepper in                  of getting the Tex-Mex tacos, chimichanga and biftec Cantina
       cream). Find it right after the Muciqi Mercedes-Benz               spicy and tasty enough to convince real Latinos. If guacamole
       garage. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€                                is not your thing, the cooks can divert to Thai specialities too.
                                                                          QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. €-€€ PBW
       Puro Veternik, tel. +381 38 60 20 99, info@puro.
       in, Pristina’s best-looking restaurant and            Cavallero A-3, Rr. Edit Durham, tel. +377 44 23 42 44.
       lounge, Puro is a gourmet venture serving imaginative,             Importing ingredients directly from Mexico, Cavallero is a
       top quality French, Italian and oriental dishes such as            convincingly good restaurant. Have some fajitas, tacos, one
       halibut in potato crust, or rosemary lamb in honey. Puro           of the vegetarian options of the impressive Ultimate Tower
       has its own pattisserie - try the chocolate pralines. After        Combo, washed down with one of five types of Mexican beer.
       dinner, cocktails are served in the stylish lounge. QOpen          The homely dining room on the first floor has all the required
       11:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€ PGBXW                     Mexicana, and there’s live music on weekend nights. QOpen
                                                                          10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€ PGX
       Rron Veternik, tel. +381 38 60 24 50/+377 44 34
       77 77,, www.rron-ks.                     Mexicana B-4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri 22. Good Mexican
       com. One of Pristina’s most popular upmarket restau-               dishes with proper ingredients and heat. Some effort has gone
       rants, well worth the trek out of town. The high-ceilinged         into the kitsching up of the interior with hats and rugs, and
       modern building has a well-stocked bar and a menu                  at weekends the place is livened up by the Mexicana band.
       featuring a varied selection of meat and fish dishes.              Spicy tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and quesadilla con queso are
       In summer, use the pleasant garden and let the kids                all available, as are specials like beefsteak in tequila sauce.
       romp in the playground. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€                QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €€ VEGS
     Kosovan                                                              Himalayan Gorkha A-2, Rr. UÇK 17, Qafa Centre,
     Liburnia 1&2 B-2, Rr. Meto Bajraktari, tel. +381 38 22               tel. +377 44 40 22 65/+377 44 19 82 98, himalayan-
     27 19. There are actually two Liburnias opposite each other, It’s a bit of a expedition to find the
     both very similar in style and food. Housed in a fine Ottoman        modestly-sized and furnished restaurant on the first floor of
     abode and surrounded by pleasant walled gardens, Liburnia            the evil Qafa shopping centre, but the food is as authentic
     oozes atmosphere, whether in summer or winter. The food              as it comes, with lovely Tibetan chicken and mutton momos
     is a roll call of decent traditional Albanian food, including the    (dumplings), some tandoor and other Indian dishes and
     usual tave (stews) and grilled meat. It’s not the best place         Chinese food from across the Himalayas too. Free delivery
     in town to sample local delicacies, but a good choice given          to nearby offices, and take-away. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
     the setting. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €€                                 €-€€ PVS

     Pishat B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 11, tel. +381 38 24 53
     33/+377 44 24 53 33. Arguably the best restaurant in                 Serbian
     Pristina. Located half indoors and half on a terrace that gets       Čao Pristina-Skopje road, tel. +386 49 30 54 70. A family-
     covered during the winter, Pishat (‘the fir tree’) is packed with    run Serbian restaurant with a wonderfully cluttered living room
     local bigwigs who visit regularly to dine on food including cala-    interior, thick clouds of smoke and large portions of fantastic
     mari, veal, traditional Albanian dishes, delicious bread baked       Serbian cooking. Here’s your chance to catch up on those pork
     in a brick oven and the local delicacy that is fli. Pishat is also   dishes that are otherwise so elusive in Pristina. They’re used
     one of a few places in Pristina serving pork dishes. QOpen           to foreigners dropping by and will be glad to explain the Cyrillic
     08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€ PIGBXW                          menu and ply you with their lethal home-made brandy till you
                                                                          fall over. Along the road to Skopje. Q €-€€
     Romantika C-1, Rr. Nazim Gafurri, tel. +377 44 26
     35 45. An authentic family-run Kosovo restaurant with only
     delicious, simple and cheap local cuisine on the menu: qofte,        Thai
     qebap, paqë (sour soup), tavë (oven dishes) and suxhuk               Le Siam Thai A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 21/1, tel. +377 45
     shtep (chicken). Find Romantika in the small Ottoman-style           24 35 88, Stylishly designed and
     shopping area a few hundred metres from the mosques.                 smoke-free, Le Siam has become a real hit for the interna-
     QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. € B                                 tional community in Kosovo. If you are acquainted with Thai
                                                                          food, you’ll find the typical assortment of curries, salads and
     Tiffany’s A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +381 38 24 40 40.               deep fried treats, delivered to good standard. Take-away and
     Astonishing. A restaurant any city would give its right arm for,     home/hotel delivery too. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€.
     Tiffany’s is a wonderfully laid-back canteen-like affair, brimming   JVGBS

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                    
Come and enjoy a fine dining experience in a distinguished, friendly, non-smoking
environment where you will be treated as a very special guest. Let your senses
explore the balance and harmony of Thai exquisite cuisine specially prepared for
you at Le Siam.

  Outdoor Terrace - Weekly Special Menu
       Take Away - Home Delivery

       e                             3
     Open Every Day from 11.00 till 23.00
                      21/1 Fehmi Agani, Pristina
                            Tel: 045 243588
                                  UÇK Street
                                                       Luan Haradinaj

                                        Qafa Gallery

                                   hm          OSCE
24          CAFÉS & NIGHTLIFE
     There are enough cafés, bars and clubs in Pristina to keep
     all but the most demanding snobs satisfied. The influx of              Cafés
     foreigners has brought with it a few excellent choices, but
     even the places frequented by the locals are better than               For Kosovans, the difference between a café, a bar, the
     many you’ll find in some of the bigger Balkan cities. The              local disco and indeed their living rooms or workplaces
     great thing about Pristina is that it’s so small you can walk          is extremely fluid. What may be a quiet place for a cap-
     from bar to bar until you find something you like. Nightlife           pucino now may be a stomping bar in an hour. Some
     is concentrated around Rruga Fehmi Agani and the Pejton                cafés listed here are equally good as nightlife spots.
     area just south of Rruga Garibaldi, with more studenty
     places in the Santea area at the eastern end of Bul. Bill              Amélie A/B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 10, tel. +377 45 58
     Clinton. Note that several places listed under Cafés are               05 80, With a dozen
     also good night spots. Just in case you’d forgotten, Kosovo            types of coffee to choose from, as well as tea, hot choc
     is a male-dominated society, and many of the cheaper                   and other drinks, the three Amélie self-service cafés are
     bars are frequented entirely by chain-smoking men.                     a huge hit in Pristina. Serving lunch as well (see Res-
                                                                            taurants), they are bright, uncluttered, smoke-free and
                                                                            visited by all kinds of young locals. Also on Rr. Perandori
     Bars                                                                   Justinian E1 (open 07:00-21:30) and Rr. Agim Ramadani
     You know you’ve made it when you are allowed (or can                   (corner Rr. Karl Gega; open 07:00-24:00, Sun closed).
     blag yourself) into the Friday evening drinking sessions in            QOpen 07:00 - 21:30. € PVGBS
     the UNMIK complex, or in OSCE’s ninth-floor restaurant.
     Lesser mortals can avail of a good selection of other bars.            Café e Vogel A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 50, tel. +377
                                                                            44 13 78 24. Run by a friendly local who spent years
     Avenue Bar A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 48, tel. +377 44 45 50                 in the UK, the ‘small café’ is a very relaxed place for a
     10. A slick and trendy establishment popular with Pristina’s           coffee, beer and chat. It’s visited by an alternative crowd
     slick and trendy professionals, the suave ground floor bar is          of students and foreigners, the two rooms have sofa and
     often packed with good-looking locals, finger food, pasta,             ottoman seating, and even when busy it’s not too smoky.
     Sinatra tunes and cocktails by the lorry load, whilst the more         During daytime, snacks are served, including lokum, fried
     subdued cellar is a bright red Oriental den of delight. Owned by       batter balls with onion sauce and salad. QOpen 08:30 -
     a local musical celebrity, expect live piano music from time to        23:30, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. B
     time. Behind Café e Vogel. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PEBW
                                                                            Dit’ e Nat’ B-2, Rr. Fazli Grajqevci, tel. +386 49 25
     Baraka A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 44 37 50 84. A                  63 62, ‘Day and night’ is Kosovo’s
     no-frills, double-decker summer cottage-style bar popular with         first book café, and a good one at that. Apart from a
     students and the usual collection of sinister-looking middle-          wide variety of English-language books and magazines,
     aged men hiding from their families. Décor comes courtesy              there’s good coffee, wine, snacks and free wifi to keep
     of candles in paper bags and the toilet is outside, but if you         the laptop lubricated. Although it’s not open till late
     can live with the basic requirements then Baraka offers a              at nat’, the atmosphere is relaxed and may have you
     fairly convivial atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB                   lingering for hours. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
                                                                            18:00. TBW
     Bistro Bar A-3, Rr. Sejdi Kryeziu, tel. +386 49 540 20
     95, Pristina’s prime cocktail bar               Elzar A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 17, tel. +377
     is found deep down a dead-end street in the Pejton area. The           44 47 74 07. One of the nicer lounge cafés along this
     space is bisected by the large bar with a lounge area near the         well-caffeined street - Elzar is a converted villa with sleek
     door and a small restaurant section on the far end. After you’ve       furnishings and garden seating all around. An international
     had the waiters serve you the daily special, let the black-clad        selection of food is served too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00,
     baristas perform miracles with the bottled spirits. Also quickly       Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. €-€€ PBW
     reached from Rr. George Bush, go down the path beside the
     Faik Konica school. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€ PAGW                       Ma Belle A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj. This “Coffee and
                                                                            Cake House” does an excellent job of serving various
     Bukka A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 44 11 22 00.                     delicious types of cake to the masses, along with good
     Set back from the street amidst a cluster of nightlife venues,         coffee. There’s also a menu including anything from pasta
     this large wooden shack has lounging space at the front,               and salads to Asian dishes. Outlet at the Albi Mall too.
     backed up by a bar and more seating space. In summer                   QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
     the terrace with fountain is great for hanging out. QOpen
     11:00 - 24:00. PBW                                                     ODA A-2/3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë
                                                                            111, tel. +381 38 24 65 55,,
     Click A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377 44 93 35 22,         Hang out with real artists at Firmly aiming at expats,                 the ODA Theatre’s small underground café. There’s
     Click is an English-lite bar with a selection of flags on the walls,   a librar y corner with ar t books, novels and other
     screens for watching football and rugby and fresh English news-        materials for visitors to browse, and free wifi too. Find
     papers. There’s UK beer on tap, a menu of hamburgers, pizza            the entrance behind the Duplex club. QOpen 09:00
     and salads, and English breakfasts. Drop by on Saturday to hear        - 24:00. LW
     the ‘Newborn’ band play. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PEBW
                                                                            Syri i Kaltër B-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza, tel. +377 44 20
     Crème de la Crème A-3, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku, tel. +377                    92 92. It’s back to the 1950s at the ‘blue eyes’ café.
     44 25 99 12/+386 49 22 00 08, www.cremeprishtina.                      The large space isn’t exactly intimate, with just some
     com. Crème is probably the best all-round bar in the city. It’s        instruments hung on the walls as decoration, but at the
     run for the amusement of the young, arty owners and not for            back there are counters with smiley staff serving coffee
     profit, which explains the more-than-generous pricing arrange-         and sweet sticky cakes. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. € B
     ments, especially for the perfectly executed cocktails. Its five

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                    
                                                                          CAFÉS & NIGHTLIFE                                                   25

tiny floors heave on Fridays and Sundays with Pristina’s cool
to the variety of beats. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon,                 Clubs
Tue, Thu, Sun. Open Wed, Fri, Sat 20:00-03:00.                            Kosovars party like there is no tomorrow, because there
                                                                          may well not be one. As around or scour Facebook to find
Mollëkuqja A-2, Rr. Mig jeni, tel. +377 44 14 39 90,                      out what’s on. The legendary Spray Club closed in 2010,
fugomollë A distinctively local and not                 but lives on as a party organiser, see
unpleasant bar frequented by a fairly smart after-work crowd              for events.
of young professionals and the occasional local character.
Features include a big stone bar, abstract art on the walls,              Cube A-3, Rr. Johan Hahn 2, tel. +377 44 12 45 84. In the
ice-cold bottled beer and decent espresso. The Albanian-only              alley off Rruga Garibaldi, you enter the large bar area of Cube.
menu isn’t going to win any cookery awards, but they do a                 There’s a terrace on the roof but all the action is downstairs in
very good thin crust pizza. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. € PAW                    the swish club area, where DJs play a mixed styles of music on
                                                                          Wednesday and weekend nights. Admission for well-dressed,
Morena A-4, Bul. Bill Clinton 8, tel. +377 44 11 51 16.                   over-20, non-square people only. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed,
Boasting dozens of cocktails including a mintless mojito, wireless        Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNBW
internet, jazz on Sunday evenings plus F1 and Champions League
on the television, Morena is a breath of fresh air indeed. The place      Depo A-2, Rr. UÇK, tel. +377 44 24 67 07. A popular club
is generally packed out in the evenings with a pleasant, young            featuring rap, house and hip-hop music played at combat
professional crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PEGBXW                           volume levels. Find the warehouse door entrance to the club
                                                                          behind the bars and terraces along Rruga Fehmi Agani. Q
Publicco A-3, Rr. Garibaldi 7, tel. +377 44 62 69 27/+377                 Open Wed, Fri, Sat 22:00-03:00. E
44 14 70 20, A stylish and relaxed bar
featuring black and red steel, stone walls and very friendly staff.       Duplex A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë 11, tel.
Chocaholics can slurp their way through 11 types of hot chocolate;        +386 49 54 55 55, You’ll fit
serious drinkers can focus on the good cocktails and coffee - which       right in with the young and beautiful crowd that descend on
is also available to go. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00.          Duplex to enjoy a night of drinking and dancing to DJ music.
                                                                          The high-ceilinged club has several bars and lounge rooms,
Strip Depot A/B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 6/1, tel. +381 38                      and is especially busy on Wednesday and weekend nights -
22 28 88, There’s nothing lewd                        call ahead to book a table. Find it behind the American School
about the Strip Depot, lads, in fact it’s one of Pristina’s most          of Kosova. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu,
pleasant nightlife spots. The classic wallpaper, sofas and                Sun. Admission €2-4.
camel seats give the Depot a crash pad atmosphere, and
there’s free wi-fi, relaxed music and comics available for the            Full House A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë, tel.
30-ish crowd to browse. Yugoslav-era comics in Albanian and               +386 49 38 36 01/+386 49 40 66 66. A large club at
Serbian are for sale too. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. PBW                        the rear of the Palace of Youth and Sports where local and
                                                                          international DJs congregate to play house, hip-hop and R&B
The Cuban A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377 45 62                        to the happy crowds. There’s a good dance floor, modern
06 20. Pristina’s latest ‘place to be’ is a decent addition               laser equipment and wall-sized mirrors in the ladies room.
to the city’s drinking scene, even if the place can be full of            Q Open Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. PEB
spivs and tarts who aren’t going to a fancy-dress party. The
Cuban-themed décor is decadent Havana, the food is average                Peppermint B-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 55 25
and not very Caribbean, but the cocktails are good. Come                  55,,
on Wednesdays for salsa dancing. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.                     A classy members-only club on the main boulevard. Inside
                                                                          it’s all smoke, lasers and mirrors, with angels and fish tanks
Tingell Tangell A-2/3, Rr. Rexhep Luci, tel. +386 49                      on the walls. Get invited or contact the club. It’s supposedly
88 62 92/+386 49 20 79 97. A bar as you’d find in Berlin’s                21+ only, though young ‘uns seem to get in too. Sunday is
grungier districts - filled with mismatched furniture, comfy old          ‘internationals night’, and just a foreign ID card should get you
seats and quirky drawings. Join a crowd of students, painters             in. QOpen 23:00 - 04:00.
and other escape artists who come here to smoke and drink.
Wildly imaginative vegetarian lunches are available too. Find it
marooned in the wastelands behind the buildings along Rr. Ha-
radinaj. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. BW
                                                                            Bar talk
                                                                            Where is the nearest bar/club?
Trafik Galeri A-3, Rr. George Bush,                                      Ku ndodhet klubi më i afërt?
This place has always been a great late-night drinking den. It’s tiny,      I need a...              Dua një …
grungy and always busy with a friendly, edgy bunch. After a recent          ... beer                 birrë
renovation, Trafik now offers beverages and art, usually produced by        ... wine                 verë
young, talented local artists. Grab a beer, spark up a conversation and     ... cocktail             koktel
survey some art. Turn down the first steps to the right when walking        ... cigarette            cigare
south from the Grand Hotel. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00.                            ... lighter              shkrepse
                                                                            ... ashtray              tabëll duhani
Xhoni’s Bar B-4, Rr. Rexhep Mala, tel. +377 44 75                           ... man                  burrë
07 20. “Johnny’s” is without doubt a Pristina institution. It’s             ... woman                grua
small, friendly, smokey, plays excellent soul, disco and classic            Where can I find a taxi? Ku mund ta gjej një taksi?
rock music from vinyl and is open until the last man or woman               You have beautiful eyes. Keni sy të bukur
staggers out. Arrive by 23:00 at the weekend to secure a                    Your place or mine?      Tek ti apo tek unë?
corner, or even better a seat, if you intend to make a night                Where I come from, that’s illegal.
of it as it gets incredibly busy. It doesn’t have a name on the                                      Prej nga unë vij kjo është ilegale
door, but it’s the place with round windows next to the A&A                 Can I have your number? A mund ta kem numrin tënd?
restaurant. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. I                                                                                   Spring - Summer 2011
28          CAFÉS & NIGHTLIFE
                                                                          Zanzibar B-2, Rr. Hajdar Dushi, tel. +377 44 15 21
       Expat activities                                                   55, An old Pristina expat
                                                                          favourite, the Zanzibar is a shabby, time-worn basement
       New expat arrivals and any other stray foreigners that             bar with a wall of smoke and loud live rock music every
       find themselves wandering around are welcome to mingle             Friday and Saturday. With just one small exit it’s going to
       with Prishtina’s active group of expats.                           be a Darwinian rush to the doors if anything happens down
                                                                          there. Find Zanzibar down the steps in the alley. QOpen
       International Women’s Club                                         19:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E
       Founded in 2004, the IWC unites expatriate women living
       in Kosovo. For 20 euros per year you’re welcome to join
       activities such as the Tuesday coffee hour, art classes,           Pubs
       book club, walking group and cultural events. Contact              Filikaqa A-3, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 4/1, tel. +381 38 24 or see                 42 88/+377 44 78 87 48,, www.
       com/group/iwc_pristina for more information.              Whistle, as it translates from Albanian, offers
                                                                          a dizzying array of televisions on which to watch your sport of
       Pristina Playgroup International                                   choice and eat the best burgers in town. Select a booth, ask
       A free dating service, not for lonely expats but for expat         the amiable staff to tune into your match and grab a ‘double
       children, so that the toddlers have somone else to safely          decker’ or ‘triple burger’, which look like American fast-food
       toddle with. More information:            classics but taste better. Friday night karaoke is a must-see
       group/pristina_playgroup.                                          must-sing event. Q P

                                                                          Ninety-One A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22 19
     Live music                                                           91, One of the most popular
     Hamam Jazz Bar A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377                    pubs in town for the foreign community, with the correct
     44 22 22 89/+381 38 22 22 89,                     wooden interior, sports events screened on televisions and
     Hamam’s interior decor of stressed concrete, leather and             good pub grub. There’s breakfasts, English burgers, rice pud-
     a mud-slab ceiling would be cutting edge anywhere in the             ding and the house speciality, beef fajitas. Peja, Fosters and
     world . And its nightly jazz performances, well stocked and          Guinness can be found on tap, and there are cocktails too,
     tended bar and fine finger food menu - think seafood with            including mojitos with fresh mint. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri,
     wasabi mayonnaise - makes it the best Pristina has to offer          Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PBW
     in terms of upscale venues. Live music starts at 22:00 and
     the recently opened venue is promising to stage a wealth             Paddy O’Brien’s B-2, Rr. Tring Smajli, tel. +381 38 22
     of local and international talent. Next to the XIX restaurant.       10 70,, www.paddyobriens.
     QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Admission €3 after 23:00.                       com. Pristina’s only Irish pub serves good Guinness, good
                                                                          pub grub and plenty of sport on its several big screens placed
     Hard Rockers Club Rr. Ilaz Kodra, tel. +377 44 11 26                 around the wood-panelled room. Serving almost as a com-
     46, It’s one of the few places in           munity centre for ex-pats, Paddy O’Briens also offers an array
     Pristina where you can catch regular live acts, and the only place   of fun evening and weekend events to entertain its regulars,
     which caters for those who like their rock served up heavy, or       including Kosovo’s only pub quiz on Thursdays, as well as
     hard. It’s quite a comfortable place to grab a beer even if you      quiet brunches and raucous nights of dancing. Q LW
     are not being entertained by long-haired strummers. Q E

     Jazz Club 212 A-3/4, Rr. Mbreti Leka Zogu I, 7a, tel.                Wine bars
     +377 44 16 72 86,,                     People’s Bistro & Wine Bar B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha
     A large club hosting a variety of live music events, often Jazz      7/1, tel. +381 38 22 44 21/+386 49 30 34 04, bistro.
     but on some nights drifting to Latino, R&B or even karaoke. A very pleasant wine bar run by people
     On weekend nights it’s packed and loud, the way we like it.          who know what they’re doing. It serves wines from Kosovo
     The owner likes to take place behind the drums himself now           and abroad together with a limited but quality selection of
     and then. The small menu of Italian and international dishes         international dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
     includes peculiar sounding food such as parpadeli with               PBW
     shpek. Q Open Wed-Sat 22:00-03:00. €-€€ E

     Maroon Pub A/B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 10. A rocking villa-
     turned-pub with lots of wood, a large central space for partying
     and plenty of seating as well. There’s regular live rock music,
     cocktails and whiskeys galore, and pizzas and salads to snack
     on. When the rest of Pristina is dead on Wednesday and Thurs-
     day nights, Maroon often puts on good live music. QOpen 07:00
     - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PEB

     Sokoli e Mirusha A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 41, tel. +377 44
     78 88 88, A self-proclaimed
     ‘gastropub’ on the first floor of a converted house, with a
     shabby-chic look attracting the right mix of artists, politicians
     and business bobos, and managed by a restaurateur with
     experience in London and New York. There’s good food and
     drinks, but most importantly there’s daily live music (except
     Sunday), with ‘Ballkan Atmosphere’ Mondays and Jazz most
     other nights. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00.
     €€ PEBW                                                                                        Stock up on smokes at the bazaar

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                   
                                                                             WHAT TO SEE                                              29

Like most Balkan cities, Pristina was a small and dusty mar-
ket town until fairly recently. The city suffered bombing in the     City tours
Second World War and again during the 1999 Kosovo crisis,
but unfortunately suffered most damage to its cultural monu-         ORTA Rr. Skenderbeu, Deçan, tel. +377 44 39 26
ments due to socialist planning and modern-day neglect.              48/+377 44 65 05 09, ORTA
In the 1950s, demolition of parts of the old centre took place       organises guided Pristina heritage day tours, including a
in the name of building a new socialist city - publications at       walk around the mosques, the hamam, the city’s three
the time boasted that “old shop fronts and other shaky old           museums and other historical buildings in the centre. A
structures are quickly disappearing to make room for fine            drive to Gracanica monastery, the castle at Novo Brdo and
tall, modern-style buildings.”                                       ancient Ulpiana can also be arranged. Ask for price offers.
The lovely little Catholic Church was demolished, as was
the region’s largest covered market, a mosque (which made
way for the Iliria hotel), the synagogue, a hamam bath house       1975. The museum used to have a rich collection of prehis-
and many Ottoman-era houses. The rivers Pristevka and              toric objects uncovered in Kosovo - these were all spirited
Vellushka were hidden beneath concrete. This all goes to           off to Belgrade just before the troubles started in 1998, and
explain the apparent dearth of charm.                              hundreds of archeological finds and ethnographic items yet
Despite all this, it’s pleasant to stroll around the former        have to be returned. The extensive permanent archaeology
bazaar area, taking in the lively goings-on at the markets or      exhibition details life in the region in the Illyrian, Dardanian
watching the mosques fill up at prayer time.                       and Roman periods with excellent English-language texts, all
                                                                   accompanied by Philip Glass minimal music. Centre stage is
                                                                   the 6000 year old Hynesha në Fron (Goddess on a throne)
Museums                                                            statue, found at Tjerrtorja in 1956 and returned to Pristina in
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeu Etnolog jik Emin                        2002. In front of the building recent history is represented by
Gjiku) B-1, Rr. Iliaz Agushi, museuetnolog jic@gmail.              some artillery hardware, while two large Jewish gravestones
com. A lovely traditional 18th century house set in a walled       remind of another recent exodus drama. QOpen 09:30 -
complex with several other buildings is the only original build-   17:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
ing left in the old bazaar area. Once owned by Emin Gjiku, a
nickname for Emin Gjinolli, whose family owned the house,          Stacion Rr. Zija Prishtina, tel. +381 38 22 25 76, info@
the complex was turned into a museum in 2006. Professional, The Center for Contem-
guides are at hand to give English-language tours, telling about   porary Art Prishtina is the only place in the country with
the traditional architecture typical for the region, and showing   regular contemporary art exhibitions and events. QOpen
the separate guest and family parts of the house that are filled   11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
with exhibits on clothing, birth and burial rituals, handicrafts
and more. The museum sells traditional gifts including white
eggshell plis hats. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 -              Ottoman Pristina
17:00. Admission €2.50/0.50.                                       Academy Building B-2, Rr. Nazim Gafurri, tel. +381
                                                                   38 24 93 03,,
Independence Museum (Kosovo Independence                           Right next to the clock tower stands another of Pristina’s few
House “Dr. Ibrahim Rugova”) A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani.                  remaining 19th century Ottoman konak-style private houses.
A small museum about Kosovo’s recent history, set in a             It is currently used by the Academy for Sciences and Arts
reconstruction of the two-room house that was used by              (Akademia e Shkencave dhe e Arteve, ASHAK) who have
Ibrahim Rugova. Glass cases hold various objects relating to       added a rather ugly glass winter garden to the building. If you
the events leading up to Kosovo’s independence, such as            ask you can enter to walk around the courtyard.
Rugova’s glasses, typewriter and desk, and the mobile phone
of media advisor Xhemajl Mustafa. The gleaming white marble
floors are slightly incongruous, but the items on display and
especially the grim photos of Pristina in the 1990s get the
message across. Although there are English captions, it’s
best visited with a local who can explain the context and
personalities. There’s a modest bust of the late great Rugova
outside. Find the museum beside the Tiffany’s restaurant.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Kosova Art Gallery B-3, Rr. Agim Ramadani 60, tel.
+381 38 22 56 27,,
Behind the National Library, this relatively large exhibition
building is made up of two exhibition halls covering almost
500 square metres and showcasing shows of mostly 2D work
by local, and primarily young, artists. Owned and operated
by the Ministry of Culture & Sports, the museum also does
a lot of educational work with young children. In front of the
entrance stands Pristina’s most interesting public artwork - a
constellation of metal beams jutting out over the footpath
like mikado sticks. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

Kosovo Museum B-2, Sheshi Adam Jashari, tel. +377
44 50 80 55. This pretty ochre-painted villa housing the
Kosovo Museum was built by Austrians for the Turkish army
in 1898, and was used by the Yugoslav national army until                                         Flowers on the main boulevard                                                                            Spring - Summer 2011
30         WHAT TO SEE
                                                                      Fatih Mosque (Xhamia e Mbretit) B-1, Rr. Ilir Konu-
                                                                      shevci. Opposite the clock tower, the Fatih or Imperial Mosque
                                                                      was built in 1461 under Turkish Sultan Mehmed II Fatih (‘the
                                                                      conqueror’), as witnessed by the Arabic engraving above the
                                                                      main door. Inside, painted floral decorations and arabesques
                                                                      grace the walls and ceiling. Pristina’s grandest building has
                                                                      a spectacular 15-metre dome resting on support pillars, an
                                                                      architectural feat at the time of construction. The minaret
                                                                      is a reconstruction after the original was damaged during
                                                                      an earthquake in 1955. The mosque was briefly turned into
                                                                      a church during the Austro-Turkish wars from 1690-1698.
                                                                      During Friday payers, the congregation spreads out into the
                                                                      courtyard and even onto the street to pray.

                                                                      Great Hamam (Hamami i Madh) B-1, Rr. Ilir Konush-
                                                                      evci. Near the Fatih Mosque, Pristina’s grandest remaining
                                                                      bath complex was in a sorry state of repair after decades of
                                                                      neglect. it is currently undergoing much-needed restoration,
                                                                      but this being Kosovo it’s become another scandal with ac-
                                                                      cusations of shoddy workmanship. Built in 1470 the public
                                                                      baths form a symmetrical pair of baths within one complex,
                                                                      one for men and women each. The complex is graced with
                                                                      15 domes, with small holes to let light stream in. Ask the
                                                                      workers if you can have a peek inside.

                                                                      Jashar Pasha Mosque B-2, Rr. Ylfete Humolli. Beside
                                                                      the Academy building, this 16th century mosque (completed
                                                                      much later in the 19th century) is similar to the Carsi Mosque
                                                                      in architecture and interior decoration. The original portico
                                                                      was demolished to make way for a wider road.

                                                                      Kocadishi House (Kosovo Institute for the Protec-
                                                                      tion of Monuments) B/C-2, Rr. Zenel Salihu. About
                                                                      150m southeast of the clock tower, this reconstructed
                                                                      house that once belonged to the Kocadishi family represents
                                                                      a typical Ottoman 19th century merchant’s home, with an
                                                  The clock tower     overhanging first floor, veranda, high walls around the pe-
                                                                      rimeter and strictly separated areas within the compound
     Bazaar B-1. Pristina’s liveliest area is without doubt the       for business and family affairs. The Kosovo Institute for the
     large bazaar, east of Rruga Ilir Konusheci. Although most of     Protection of Monuments now uses the building; call ahead
     it was destroyed in the 1950s, it still retains the bustling     if you are interested in viewing the interior.
     atmosphere typical of all Balkan markets. All kinds of goods
     are for sale: fruit, vegetables, Albanian flags, cigarettes      Pirinaz Mosque (Xhamia e Pirinazit) C-2, Rr. Ismail
     (stacked up in walls of cartons), kitchen utensils, car parts,   Dunoshi. Built in the second half of the 16th century, the
     dodgy mobile phones and more, making for a fascinating           Pirinaz Mosque was founded by the Ottoman Vizier Piri Nazir.
     stroll. Many of the friendly traders are returned refugees       Legend has it that the ‘Stone of Lazar’ in the garden was used
     and know German, Italian or English, and will be happy to        to behead Prince Lazar during the Battle of Kosovo in 1389, and
     strike up conversation.                                          that he was buried in this mosque with the Sultan’s permission
                                                                      before being moved to Ravanici Monastery in central Serbia.
     Çarshia Mosque (Xhamia e Çarshisë) B-2, Rr. Meto
     Bajraktari. The ‘market mosque’ is Pristina’s oldest building,   Shadërvani Fountain B-2, Rr. Nazim Gafurri. The
     constructed in the 15th century by Turkish Sultan Bajazit        elegant marble shadërvani fountain or water well, just be-
     to commemorate the 1389 victory. Now no longer part of           hind the Çarshia Mosque, is one of the last remaining public
     the old bazaar complex and no longer in possession of a a        watering holes in Pristina. Despite the busy road nearby, it’s
     mausoleum, the one-room mosque is marooned in front of           still used as a place for old men to sit and chat.
     the Kosovo Museum.

     Clock Tower (Sahat Kulla) B-2, Rr. Ylfete Humolli.
     Every market town in the Ottoman Empire needed a clock
                                                                        Pristina heritage map
     tower so the faithful knew when to pray and shops could all        The Pristina Heritage map on the next page is kindly
     close and reopen at the same time so that no trader got any        provided by IKS (, an independent non
     advantage from staying open longer. Pristina’s 19th century,       profit NGO focusing on socio-economic research in
     26-metre high clock tower looks very similar to the one in         Kosovo and the region. In partnership with ESI, European
     Skopje. It was built by Jashar Pasha beside the mosque             Stability Initiative, IKS has done research into Pristina’s
     bearing his name in the centre of the old bazaar area, and         development and published a discussion paper (available
     was made with sandstone and bricks. The original bell, which       online) on the city’s threatened cultural heritage, and is
     originated from Moldova, was stolen in 2001. A new clock was       starting a cultural heritage awareness raising campaign
     installed with help of the French KFOR troops, and seeing it       amongst both locals and foreign visitors. The map can
     runs on electricity we were quite surprised that it indicated      be downloaded on the website.
     the correct time on all of its faces when we last checked.

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                               
32          WHAT TO SEE
                                                                      National Library B-3, Sheshi Hasan Prishtina, tel. +381
       Gračanica Monastery                                            38 24 96 50, Unleashed on a bewil-
                                                                      dered public in 1982, Pristina’s extraordinary National Library
                                                                      was designed by the Croatian architect Andrija Mutnjakovic.
                                                                      The outside of the mammoth 16,500 square metre space-age
                                                                      building features a total of 99 white glass cupolas of different
                                                                      sizes and is entirely covered in a metal fishing net. Simultane-
                                                                      ously gorgeous and absurd, the library was once home to a
                                                                      huge depository of Albanian literature, much of which, thanks to
                                                                      the enlightened leadership of Slobodan Milosovic, was turned
                                                                      into cardboard in the early 1990s. The equally beguiling interior
                                                                      which has some photos of old Pristina still contains over 5,000
                                                                      fine examples of old and rare books and manuscripts, dating
                                                                      back to the 16th century. The library also holds many foreign
                                                                      titles, and membership is open to anyone.

                                                                      National Martyr’s Monument (Varrezat e Dësh-
                                                                      morëve) C-3, Rr. Rrustem Statovci. Topping the Park
                                                                      of Martyrs at the top of Velania, the Yugoslav-era Martyr’s
                                                                      Monument honours the partisans that died during the libera-
                                                                      tion of the region in World War II. The monument consists of
                                                                      a platform with a metal globe shape on a stick, surrounded
                                                                      by several concrete shells sticking out of the ground. Ignored
                                                                      and vandalised, it has a haunting beauty.

                                                                      Palace of Youth & Sports (Pallati i Rinisë dhe i Sport-
       Gračanica Monastery (Manastir Gračanica)                       eve) A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 24 94 24, www.
       Gračanica. The monastery in the village of Gračanica, The massive complex from 1977-1981 is an
       a short drive south of Pristina, is one of Kosovo’s best       unmissable and spikey Pristina landmark, and a nice example of
       religious monuments. Completed in 1321 and built by the        Yugoslav-era city planning. The youth centre has an assembly
       legendary king of Serbia, Milutin Nemanjic, the Serbian        hall, disco, concert and sports halls and a Pioneer’s centre - now
       Orthodox monastery church represents the height of             catering to children without any additional brainwashing. The
       Serbian Byzantine tradition. Its real beauty is hidden         bearded man depicted on the building is local hero Adem Jashari,
       within, where several distinct periods of fresco painting      a UÇK commander who was killed in 1998 together with some
       are extremely well preserved, depicting the early life of      50 others, including nearly his entire family.
       Jesus as well as the representations of the ecclesiasti-
       cal calendar and a terrifying Day of Judgement. The
       monastery is guarded by police who may require to see          Parks
       your ID. To get there from Pristina, take the bus to Gjilan,   Gërmia Park Rr. Nazim Gafurri. In the hills just east of
       which passes through the town after 15 minutes. Note           town, this large park at the end of bus lines N°4,5 and 9 has
       that Gračanica is a Serb enclave that sometimes is the         a popular open-air swimming pool that’s the size of a lake,
       focus of unrest, and some embassies warn against visit-        and endless forests to ramble through - though you should
       ing. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00. Admission free.                      stick to the paths which are landmine-free. Skiing is possible
                                                                      here in winter too, though there are no special facilities. Q
                                                                      Admission free, cars €1.
     Yugoslav Pristina
     Christ the Saviour Cathedral B-3, Sheshi Hasan                   Parku i Qytetit (City Park) C-2/3, Rr. Hmez Jashari.
     Prishtina. A folly of Serbian nationalist aspirations, the       East the the centre, the city park is a pleasant, cleaned-up
     Serbian Othodox Cathedral is the unfinished, hulking brick       area with concrete paths, trees and places to sit and play
     shell of a church on Sheshi Hasan Prishtina, the field beside    chess in the shade.
     the national library. Started in 1995, it was supposed to
     be finished in 1999. During the war and since it has been        Parku i Taukbahqes C-2, Rr. Nazim Gafurri. A pretty
     the focus of attacks, graffiti and vandalism, yet it remains     park just a short walk east of the bazaar area. The old, tall
     standing and protected by the UN’s principles and barbed         trees create plenty of pleasant shady spots in summer, and
     wire. Nobody can use or change the Cathedral without the         colourful foliage in autumn.
     permission of the Serbian Orthodox Church - who still demand
     must be completed.                                               Parku Varrezat e Dëshmorëve (Park of Martyrs)
                                                                      C-3, Rr. Isa Kastrati. The grassy hilltop in the Velania area is
     Monument of Brotherhood and Unity B-2, Rr.                       not much of a park, but still well worth visiting for the Martyr’s
     Meto Bajraktari. These three 15-metre high columns               Monument, Rugova’s and several KLA graves and the great
     joining near the top symbolise the ‘unity and brotherhood’       views over the city and the mountains beyond.
     (a favourite Yugoslav slogan) of the the three peoples
     of Kosovo (Albanians, Serbs and Montenegrins). The
     overgrown bottom end of the monument is surrounded               Other sights
     by rusting barbed wire, and you can just about see the           Archaeological Park Rr. Agim Ramadani. Pristina’s new
     inscription 1961 on the rotting base of the pillars. Nearby,     archaeological park has exhibits on ancient Kosovo, Roman-
     a more interesting metal statue of a group of faceless           era tombs and parts of the Mosaic of Gllamnik. There’s an
     people watches on. The sad square it’s on was once the           amphitheatre for summertime theatre and film shows. Near
     bustling heart of the bazaar, which got demolished in the        the Kosovo Museum, on the corner of Rruga Haxhi Zeka. Q
     name of progress.                                                Open March-October.

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                
                                                                                   WHAT TO SEE                                         33

Catholic Cathedral (Mother Teresa Cathedral) A-4,                   surrounded by a small plaza, the pedestal seems formed by
Rr. George Bush. Pristina’s new cathedral, unofficially named       a plis, the traditional Albanian egg-shell hat. The statue was
after the famous ethnic Albanian nun, is a welcome addition         designed by Albanian artist Janaq Paco in 2001. Unfortunately,
to city’s skyline. Built in new-renaissance Italianate style, its   amateur graffiti artists, vandals and poor maintenance have
two campanile towers will reach 70 metres once completed,           done much to damage the statue.
but building work appears to have slowed down since the
venue’s consecration in September 2010. Some €1 million             St. Nicholas Church C-1, Rr. Shkodra. The only active
was raised for the building by the Albanian diaspora. While         Serbian Orthodox church in Pristina was badly damaged by
the building is open to public, remember it’s still a building      fire during the 2004 riots, but was rebuilt and now services
site so say your prayers before entering.                           are once more held in the low 17th century building. Q The
                                                                    church can be visited most days around 17:00.
Clinton Billboard & Statue A-4, Bul. Bill Clinton.
Kosovo’s favourite superhero is honoured with a large               Union Hotel building B-2, Bul. Nëne Tereza. Built in
billboard overlooking the boulevard named after him. Right          1927, the two-storey former Union Hotel next to the National
below, a three metre high bronze statue of Bill Clinton was         Theatre is a typical early 20th century eclectic building that’s
unveiled in 2009, showing the love affair is still fresh. The       admired for its dainty decorations. It’s arguably the pretties
statue, depicting Bill waving and clutching the 1999 agree-         building in the city, yet authorities let it stand derelict and
ment that permitted US troops to enter Kosovo, was paid             half empty for years before a homeless man living in it set it
for by the ‘Friends of the USA’ association who didn’t get          on fire in 2009, causing great damage. In 2011, the dispute
permission to put it anywhere else in the city. It’s a welcome      is still ongoing.
addition to the grey boulevard.
                                                                    Zahir Pajaziti statue A/B-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza. Op-
Jewish Cemetery Tauk Bahqe hill. The 19th century                   posite the Grand Hotel, this statue commemorates Zahir
Jewish Cemetery on top of Velania’s Tauk Bahqe dates from           Pajaziti (1962-1997), a UCK fighter based in the Llapi area.
the time that Pristina’s Jewish community numbered some             He was killed in action and is now considered one of the
1500 souls. It holds about 50 tombstones which are now              biggest patriots during the Kosovo crisis - you’ll always see
overgrown with weeds. After 500 years of presence in Pristina       fresh flowers at the statue.
since their immigration from Spain in 1492, the Jewish com-
munity that remained after the deportations of World War II
was forced to leave in June 1999 and resettled in Belgrade.         Around town
                                                                    Novo Brdo tel. +377 44 46 54 71, rural.tourism.nb@
Mother Teresa statue B-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza. A small       , 40km east of
and humble statue of Mother Teresa, a nun of ethnic Albanian        Pristina, Novo Brdo (Novobërde in Albanian) has rural charm,
origin (born in Skopje in what is now Macedonia) who devoted        hiking, biking, lavish traditional meals, strawberry picking,
her life to the poor in India. The fountain around the statue       guesthouses and a whopping big castle ruin in lovely hilly
is sadly crumbling - and rumours have it that a new, bigger         surroundings. Silver mining started here in ancient times,
statue of the tiny lady will be erected in front of the new         though decline from the 17th century means the castle and
cathedral to replace this one.                                      the original town on a plateau just below it are picturesquely
                                                                    ruined. Call Fadil Llapashtica at the tourist office in advance
Newborn Monument A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj. Missing                   to arrange bike rental, a home-made organic meal at one of
a central rallying point in the heady days of the declaration of    the farmhouses or to stay the night at one of 5 simple rural
independence in February 2008, some cleverclogs designed            guesthouses.
these seven huge yellow steel letters spelling out the word
‘newborn’ that was placed in front of the Palace of Youth and       Ulpiana (Fontana Ulpiane) Rr. Imzot Nikprelaj, Ul-
Sports. The three metre high letters were quickly covered           piana. The important Roman city of Ulpiana was built near
in autographs and texts, scribbled by thousands of people           the silver and lead mines that made Kosovo so important at
starting with the PM and president.                                 the time. Remains of roads and public and religious buildings
                                                                    have been found, though you need to apply a lot of imagina-
Photos of the missing B-2, Bul. Nëne Tereza. A poignant             tion to envisage the way it looked. Apart from a complex of
reminder of the Kosovo crisis, the gates at the northern end        low walls and foundations, a few restored 4th-6th century
of the boulevard have dozens of photos of Kosovans who              graves can be visited at the city necropolis. Ulpiana’s ruins
have been missing since the conflict; nearly 1,900 people           lie halfway along the road between Gračanica and Laplje Selo.
remain unaccounted for.                                             Q Admission free.
Rugova’s Grave C-3, Park of Martyrs. Half a million
people turned out for the funeral procession of the former
president of Kosovo, Ibrahim Rugova, who died of lung cancer
                                                                      Out of Pristina
on January 21, 2006. The chain-smoking, ‘Gandhi of the Bal-           The second edition of the Bradt
kans’ was a writer who entered politics in the late 1980s and         Kosovo guidebook was published
helped set up the Democratic League of Kosovo (LDK). Initially        in late 2010 and holds a wealth of
a hero for his passive resistance to Serbian rule, Rugova lost        information for those venturing out
credibility after the 1995 Dayton Agreement, but made a               of Pristina for the day or on longer
comeback and became president in 2002. He lies buried at              trips. The guide is especially valuable
the top of the Parku Varrezat e Dëshmorëve (Park of Martyrs).         for hiking and other outdoor activities
                                                                      in Kosovo’s western mountains and
Skanderbeg statue B-2, Bul. Nëne Tereza. The monu-                    for visiting cultural heritage in his-
ment of Skanderbeg, or Gjerg j Kastrioti Skenderbeu, stands           torical towns and villages across the
proudly at the top end ofBul. Nëne Tereza, paying homage to           country. Available from the Dukagjini
the Albanian superhero who brilliantly fought off the Ottomans        bookshop or at
for decades in the fifteenth century. Brightly lit at night and                                                                             Spring - Summer 2011
34         GAZIMESTAN
                                                                          Both sites are along the main road north from Pristina
                                                                          to Mitrovica, around 10km from the city. As you climb to
                                                                          the crest of the first hill, you will spot the tower 400m off
                                                                          the road to the right. At time of research the main road
                                                                          was a mess as it is being transformed, slowly, into a
                                                                          highway, and there are no signs pointing to the tower or
                                                                          tomb. Take the first available to the right after you spot
                                                                          the tower and follow the dirt track next to an unfinished
                                                                          warehouse until you reach the parking by the security
                                                                          gate. You will need some form of identity to show the
                                                                          disinterested Kosovo Police officers, who recently took
                                                                          over providing security from Kosovo’s NATO force, KFOR.
     Gazimestan tower                              © Greta Howard         Plans are afoot to open an information centre here and
                                                                          provide a multilingual guide.
     A short trip from Pristina, two memorials remind the visitor
     of a gruesome battle that took place on Kosovo's plains              Sultan Murat’s Türbe is 1600 metres further north along
     over 600 years ago.                                                  the main road. Keep your eyes peeled for the small
                                                                          domed building, 200m to the left.
     Gazimestan                                                           It’s an easy trip by car or taxi (visiting both spots should
     "Whoever is a Serb and of Serb birth, and of Serb blood and          cost around €12), but you can also grab a bus to Mitrovica
     heritage, and comes not to fight at the Battle of Kosovo, may        and ask the driver to drop you at the main road close to
     he never have the progeny his heart desires!” starts the 1845        either spot. Buses run every 15 minutes all week and
     nationalist adaptation of the so-called Kosovo curse. And            can be picked up at the main bus station, tickets should
     while latter-day science may question the site’s birth control       cost you €0.50. Simply flag down a passing bus to get
     powers, the site of the famous Battle of Kosovo, just 10km           to the next site, or back to town.
     from Pristina, may be architecturally uninspiring but it remains
     a must-see for those interested in the history of the region.
                                                                        Sultan Murat’s Türbe
     The Gazimestan memorial tower stands in the fields where,          Across the main road, you will find Sultan Murat's Türbe,
     in the summer of 1389, the Ottoman Empire clashed with the         or mausoleum. Through an arched stone gate is a little
     Serbian medieval kingdom, involving many tens of thousands         complex renovated in recent years with Turkish funds. The
     of troops. Almost every aspect of the Battle of Kosovo is          fine stone mausoleum houses a large tomb which doesn’t
     contested. While Serbs mark the clash on June 28, St Vitus         actually contain the remains of Sultan Murat – they have
     Day, most believe it actually took place on June 15. And while     been moved to the imperial museum in Bursa, Turkey. The
     Serbs often describe the battle as their empire’s defining         building, constructed in the 1850s, is pleasant enough, but
     defeat at the hands of the Ottomans, it was probably more of       there is little to see inside. Perhaps the most notable sight
     a draw. Less contentious is the fact that both Serbian Prince      is the 700-year-old mulberry tree beside it, one of the few
     Lazar and Sultan Murat, leader of the Ottomans, died in the        survivors from the battle. You are likely to encounter the
     battle, along with thousands of others. Both men are thus          keepers of the tomb on your trip. A man-and-wife team
     commemorated at the site. The battle, to this day, plays an        has been looking after the building for generations, and the
     essential part in Serbian nationalist narrative, reinforcing the   current incumbents are Sanija and Fahri Türbedari.
     national identity as a bastion against the orient and Islam.

     Built to the not-so-dizzying height of 25 metres, Gazimestan
     tower nonetheless provides excellent views across the
     plain of Kosovo. The tower was erected in 1953 on a raised
     platform, surrounded by some bizarre concrete chimneys. At
     the front is the inscription of the Kosovo curse, supposedly
     written by Prince Lazar, the Serbian leader killed on the
     battlefield on 1389, but first put to paper by the nationalist
     poet Vuk Karadzic. The tower not only marks the location
     of the legendary battle: in 1989, it was also the location for
     Slobodan Milosevic’s most notorious speech marking the
     battle’s 600th anniversary, which many historians consider
     pivotal in the collapse of Yugoslavia.

     Take the winding staircase up to the top platform to admire
     the view and consult an ornamental map of how the Battle of
     Kosovo panned out. You can admire the mountains separating
     Kosovo and Serbia, the suburban edges of Pristina and even the
     hulking monstrosities that are Kosovo A and B, the country’s
     power plants spewing out toxic smoke. It may sound a little
     underwhelming, but in the right light it can be spectacular.
     Just down the hill from the tower stands the small Bajraktar
     Türbe, a monument for Sultan Murat's standard bearer, now
     an important place of worship for the Sadije dervish order.        Sultan Murat’s tomb                             © Ivan Abrams

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                  
                                                             GETTING AROUND                                                      35

Kosovo is a tiny country, and getting around is
often surprisingly fast, sometimes agonisingly         Flight schedule
slow. Entering from the surrounding countries is       From Pristina                            To Pristina
very simple, even from Serbia - though be careful      Days      Dep.    Arr.          City     Days       Dep.       Arr.
to read the travel information in the Glossary.        ---4---   19:00   21:10     BASEL (U2)   ---4---    16:10      18:20
                                                       -----6-   20:30   22:40     BASEL (U2)   -----6-    17:40      19:50
Airport & Airlines                                     -----6-   13:20
                                                       1234567 15:05
                                                                         15:45    BERLIN (4U)   -----6-
                                                                         16:50 BUDAPEST (MA) 1234567 12:55
                                                                                                           10:10      12:35
Pristina International Airport (PRN) tel.              ––––––7 11:00     14:00   COLOGNE (4U)   ––––––7 07:20         10:20
+381 38 595 81 23, www.airportpristina.                –––––6– 13:10     16:00 COPENHAGEN (SK) –––––6– 09:15          12:10
com. Pristina’s ‘Adem Jashari’ international airport   ––3––6– 09:00     11:15 DUESSELDORF (AB) ––3––6– 12:00         14:20
is 18km southwest of the city. Getting there takes     --3--6-   19:45   22:40 DUSSELDORF (ST) --3--6-     09:55      12:45
about 30 minutes; a taxi ride will cost about €25.     ------7   04:50   07:30 DUSSELDORF (XL) ------7
                                                       -----6-   07:45   10:25 DUSSELDORF (XL) -----6-     17:50      20:35
There’s a 24hr airport bus service, theoretically      --3----   17:50   20:35 DUSSELDORF (XL) --3----     08:05      10:45
departing every two hours from outside the Grand       -----6-   10:30   13:00 FRANKFURT (AB) -----6-      07:15      09:45
Hotel; tickets cost €3 and are bought on the bus.      --3--6-   09:00   11:20    GENEVA (4T)   --3--6-    05:55      08:15
The European flag-carriers are the main players        --3----   08:55   11:10    GENEVA (U2)   --3----    06:00      08:15
here, and can be relied on to depart on time -         -----6-   19:35   21:45    GENEVA (U2)   -----6-    16:45      18:55
for all other flights it’s a good idea to phone in     -----6-   14:55   17:10    GENEVA (WK)   -----6-    12:00      14:10
advance to confirm. Inside the main terminal is a      -----6-   17:50   20:40  HAMBURG (AB) -----6-       07:40      10:20
post office (open 08:00-15:00) where you can buy       -----6-   11:05   13:35  HANNOVER (AB) -----6-      14:30      17:00
SIM cards and make phone calls; some souvenir          1234567 14:35     15:50   ISTANBUL (TK)  1–3–5–– 12:00         13:30
shops and a café with photos of old Kosovo. After      1----5--  05:25   06:50   ISTANBUL (TK)  ---4--7    22:15      23:45
                                                       1234567 05:00     06:30  LJUBLJANA (JP) 1234567 00:00          01:20
customs, there’s the Runway duty-free shop (see
                                                       1234567 15:45     16:25  LJUBLJANA (JP) 1234567 13:15          15:00
Shopping).                                             1–3–5–– 17:30     20:30    LONDON (BA)   1–3–5–– 13:15         16:15
                                                       –––––6– 19:55     22:55    LONDON (BA)   –––––6– 15:50         18:50
Adria (JP) B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 12, tel.               -----6-   19:15   21:20    MUNICH (ST)   -----6-    16:15      18:30
+381 38 24 67 46, fax +381 38 24 67 47,                1234567 06:45     07:30 PODGORICA (YM) 1234567 19:45           20:30,            ------7   08:30   10:45 STUTTGART (4U) ------7      05:35      07:50
Flights to Ljubljana.                                  ––3––6– 13:25     15:35 STUTTGART (4U) ––3––6– 10:30           12:45
Air Berlin (AB) Rr. Vellusha e Poshtme 17,             ––3––6– 12:45     14:10 STUTTGART (ST) ––3––6– 09:50           12:00
tel. +381 38 50 20 62,              --3----   11:30   13:55 STUTTGART (XL) --3----      14:40      17:05
Flights to Duesseldorf, Frankfurt, Hannover, Mu-       -----6-   16:55   19:15 STUTTGART (XL) -----6-      20:20      22:40
nich, Geneva, Zurich etc.                              1234567 10:30     11;00     TIRANA (LZ)  1234567 19:00         19:30
                                                       –2––567 11:40     13:00    VERONA (IG)   –2––567 13:45         15:05
Austrian Airlines (OS) A-2, Rr. Luan Hara-             1–3–5–– 07:00     08:40    VIENNA (OS)   –2–4––7 19:15         21:45
dinaj 27 (AltaVia Travel), tel. +381 38 54 35          1234567 16:35     17:15    VIENNA (OS)   1234567 13:20         15:45
43, fax +381 38 24 35 17, info@altaviatravel.          1––4–6– 06:30     08:00    ZAGREB (OU)   ––3–5––7 21:15        22:45
com, Flights to Vienna.              –––4––– 17:45     19:15    ZAGREB (OU)   –––4––– 15:30         17:00
Belle Air (LZ) A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 4/1,            –2––––7 18:15     19:45    ZAGREB (OU)   –2––––7 16:00         17:30
tel. +381 38 22 55 70, fax +381 38 22 55               12-45-7 09:45     11:55    ZURICH (4T)   12-45-7 06:15         08:30
72,, www.              --3--6-   15:20   17:30    ZURICH (4T)   --3--6-    12:25      14:35 Budget flights to Tirana and several      1234567 09:55     12:05    ZURICH (ED)   1234567 08:55         09:05
cities in Italy, Germany and Belgium.                  1234567 09:30     11:30    ZURICH (LX)   1234567 06:30         08:30
British Airways (BA) Pristina Airport, tel. Flight schedule correct at time of research, though travellers are
+381 38 54 86 61, Flights to           advised to check all flight times in advance.
London Gatwick.                                    Airline codes: 4R = Hamburg International Airlines, 4T = Belair, 4U =
Croatia Airlines (OU) A-2, Rr. Luan Haradi- Germanwings, AB = AirBerlin, BA = British Airways, IG = Meridiana, JP
naj 27, Alta Via Travel, tel. +381 38 23 38 33,    = Adria Airways, LZ = Belle Air, LX = Swiss MA = Malev, OS = Austrian, www.croatiaair-         Airlines, OU = Croatia Airlines, ST = Germania, TK = Turkish Airlines, U2 Flights to Zagreb.                      = EasyJet, YM = Montenegro Airlines
Edelweiss (ED) Bul. Nëna Tereza 23, tel.
+381 38 54 84 33, Flights to
Zurich and Geneva.                                               Driving & Car rental
Germanwings (4U) tel. +381 38 24 91 85, www. Kosovo’s main roads are in a good state and not too busy Budget flights to Cologne and Stuttgart.      outside the towns, but stick to daytime trips unless you’re a
Lufthansa (LH) A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 27 (AltaVia confident driver, as unlit roads in combination with unreliable
Travel), tel. +381 38 54 35 43, fax +381 38 24 35 17,          signposting and oncomers’ faulty headlights can be fatal. Flights to Duesseldorf.                     The maximum speeds are 35km/hr in urban areas, 60km/
Malev (MA) A-4, Bul. Bill Clinton 12 (InterTravel Club), hr on main roads and 80km/hr on highways. Drivers must
tel. +381 38 53 55 35,,          officially use headlights at all times, have a yellow vest and
Flights to Budapest.                                           first aid kit in the car, and snow chains in winter. Parking in
Montenegro Airlines (YM) A-3, Rr. Robert Doll 41, Pristina is free, but don’t risk parking where it’s not allowed.
tel./fax +381 38 61 01 11, www.montenegroairlines.
com. Flights to Podgorica.                                     Europcar Lag jia e Emshirit, tel./fax +381 38 54 14 01,
SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SK) tel. +45 70 10 20 tel. +381 38 59 41 01 (airport),,
00, Flights to Copenhagen.            Their city office is located 200m
Swiss (LX) A-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 24 34 south of the bus station, along the road to Skopje.
46, Flights to Zurich.                          Hertz C-4, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 54 44
Turkish Airlines (TK) A-4, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku, tel. +381 80/+377 44 11 78 82, fax +381 38 54 44 90, hertz@
38 50 20 52, Flights to Istanbul., Also at Pristina airport.                                                                        Spring - Summer 2011

      Language                                                           Long-distance buses
                                                                         Buses in Kosovo run frequently, are reasonably fast, clean
      Albanian is Kosovo’s main language – though you’ll find English    and good value. Pristina’s bus station serves all Kosovo and
      and Serbian translations on all official signs in Kosovo. German   international destinations.
      and sometimes English is widely spoken by the many refugees
      who returned to Kosovo after a few years in western Europe.        Buses from Pristina to PEJA (€4) depart at 07:30, 08:00
      The names of cities in Kosovo as well as all other Albanian        and then every 20 minutes until 20:00, taking 1 hour 30
      nouns have two different endings. One is definite (Pejë), the      minutes. Buses to GJAKOVA (€4) depart every half hour
      other indefinite (Peja, or ‘the Peje’). Even when the names        between 08:00 and 20:00, taking 1 hour 30 minutes.
      appear in English text, translators don’t agree on which version   Buses to PRIZREN (€4) depart at 06:50, 07:20, 08:00
      to use. Add a dash of Serbian (Peć), and such ordinary pursuits    and then every 30 minutes until 20:00, taking 1 hour 30
      as driving from a to b all of sudden become confusing to say       minutes. Buses to MITROVICA (€1.50) depart evert 15
      the least. The word Kosovo incidentally is the English spelling.   minutes between 06:30 and 20:00, taking 30 minutes to
      Locals use Kosova (and of course Kosovë).                          get there. Buses to GJILAN (€2) via GRACANICA depart
                                                                         at 06:30, 07:20 and then every 20 minutes until 20:20,
      Pronunciation                                                      taking 30 minutes to get there. Buses to FERIZAJ (€2)
      a as in father        ë as in term          nj as in new           depart at 06:45, 07:45, 08:00 and then every 15 minutes
      c as in pizza         gj as in dodge        q as check             until 20:30, taking 45 minutes.
      ç as in church        i as in machine       r as in rope
      dh as in that         j as in year          rr is a rolled r       Pristina Bus Station (Stacioni i autobusave) Rr.
      e as in set           II as in still        xh as in judge         Lidja e Pejes, tel. +381 38 55 00 11. The bus station is
                                                                         a fairly dismal affair, 2km southwest of the city centre, near
      Niceties & Necessities                                             the end of Bul. Bill Clinton. To get there you’ll need a taxi as
      Yes                             Po                                 there’s no public transport from the centre, though be sure
      No                              Jo                                 to refuse the €1 car park fee for being dropped off. Left lug-
      Good                            Mirë                               gage services are provided by the shefi I narimit office (open
      Please                          Ju lutem                           06:00-20:00, €1/day).
      Thank you                       Faleminderit
      Sorry!                          Më fal
      Good morning                    Mirëmëngjes
      Good day
                                                                           International bus schedule
      Good night                      Natën e mirë
                                                                           From Pristina
      Good luck with your work!       Punë e mbarë!
                                                                           Dep. Arr.              City        Price Comment
      Cheers!                         Gëzuar!
                                                                           11:00 17:00        BELGRADE €10-15 Except Sat.
      All the best!                   Gjitha të mirat!                     22:00 04:00        BELGRADE €10-15
      Excuse me!                      Më falni!                            22:30 05:30        BELGRADE €10-15
      How are you?                    Si jeni?                             23:00 05:00        BELGRADE €10-15
                                                                           17:45 23:00 PODGORICA* €10-15
      Practicalities                                                       19:00 00:30 PODGORICA* €10-15
      When?                            Kur?                                05:30 07:00           SKOPJE       €5
      Now                              Tani                                06:00 07:30           SKOPJE       €5
      Where?                           Ku?                                 06:30 08:00           SKOPJE       €5
      Here                             Këtu                                07:25 09:00           SKOPJE       €5    Except Sun.
      There                            Atje                                07:55 09:30           SKOPJE       €5    Except Sun.
      Who?                             Kush?                               09:00 10:30           SKOPJE       €5    Except Sun.
      Why?                             Pse?                                10:00 11:30           SKOPJE       €5    Except Sun.
      What?                            Çfarë?                              10:30 11:00           SKOPJE       €5
      I have...                        Kam...                              11:30 13:00           SKOPJE       €5
      I am...                          Jam...                              12:30 14:00           SKOPJE       €5
      What’s your name?                Si quheni?                          14:30 16:00           SKOPJE       €5
      My name is...                    Quhem...                            15:00 16:30           SKOPJE       €5
      I’m from...                      Une jam nga...                      15:30 17:00           SKOPJE       €5
      ...UK                            ...Anglia                           17:00 18:30           SKOPJE       €5
      ...USA                           ...Amerika                          06:30 09:30          TETOVA        €5-10
      I don’t understand               Nuk kuptoj                          07:15 10:15          TETOVA        €5-10
      I don’t speak Albanian           Nuk flas shqip                      10:00 13:00          TETOVA        €5-10
      A ticket, please                 Një biletë, ju lutem                13:00 16:00          TETOVA        €5-10
      How much does this cost?         Sa kushton?                         15:00 18:00          TETOVA        €5-10
                                                                           17:00 20:00          TETOVA        €5-10
      Signs                                                                04:00 10:00         TIRANA** €20-25
      Open             Hapur                                               05:00 11:00         TIRANA** €20-25
      Closed           Mbyllur                                             06:00 12:00         TIRANA** €20-25
      Entrance         Hyrje                                               15:00 21:00         TIRANA** €20-25
      Exit             Dalje                                               17:00 23:00         TIRANA** €20-25 On Tue, Thu, Sun.
      Push             Shtyj                                               * Travels on to Ulcinj
      Pull             Tërheq                                              ** Via either Kukes or Tetovo (Macedonia)
      No smoking       Ndalohet pirja e duhanit                            Schedule correct at time of research in March 2011.
                                                                           Confirm all times before travelling.

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                  
                                                                           GETTING AROUND                                                        37

Public transport                       Train schedule
Pristina is small and taxis are
cheap, so you may never need           From Prishtina station                                    To Prishtina station               Price
to use public transport (trafiku       Dep. Arr.            No.                     City         Dep. Arr.           No.
urban) in the city. The large          07:50 09:57 TL4201                          PEJA          05:32 07:32 IC760                  €3
second-hand city buses lum-            16:30 18:26 IC761                           PEJA          12:10 14:10 TL4200                 €3
bering around town are slow            07:10 09:52 IC891                          SKOPJE         16:35 19:35 IC892                  €4*
but do get there eventually.
Tickets cost €0,40 and can             From Fushë Kosovë station                                 To Fushë Kosovë station Price
be purchased on the buses;             Dep. Arr.            No.                     City         Dep. Arr.           No.
enthusiasts can buy a city bus         08:01 09:46 TL4201                          PEJA          05:32 07:21 IC760                  €2.80
month card for €10. A useful           16:41 18:26 IC761                           PEJA          12:10 13:59 TL4200                 €2.80
bus line is city bus N°4, which        07:22 09:52 IC891                          SKOPJE         16:35 19:25 IC892                  €3.70
rattles from Sunny Hill (in the        Schedule valid until December 2011. Confirm times before travelling. All trains from
southeast of Pristina) via Bul. i      Pristina station travel via Fushë Kosovë station.
Deshmoreve, Rr. Eqrem Qabej            * Price valid till the border; an additional €5 is to be paid on board for the remaining stretch.
and Rr. Luan Haradinaj, through
the centre to Gërmia Park. Kombi minibus N°5 follows the                  fairly impressive in its day. Now it’s an empty shell, with dusty
same route. Kombi bus N°1 goes from the eastern end of Bul.               departure boards and a rather beautiful Tito-era statue outside.
Bill Clinton to the station at Fushë Kosovë for €0,50.                    Get here by taxi (€7-10) or with the N°1 minibus (€0.40), which
                                                                          departs every 5-10 minutes from Bul. Bill Clinton (between Rr.
                                                                          R. Doli and Rr. Perandori Justinian). Fushë Kosovë station has
Taxis                                                                     trains to and from Pristina, Peja and Skopje.
Starting at €1,50 (€2 after 22:00) plus €0.60 per kilometre,
fares are cheap in Pristina. The jury is out as to the trustwor-          Kosovo Railways (Hekurudhat e Kosovës) Sheshi
thiness of your average Pristina cabbie - some reports claim              i Lirisë, Fushë Kosovë, tel. +381 38 55 05 50 55, info@
every taxi is driven by a direct descendent of Mother Teresa    , Information
herself, whilst others insist it’s all a Serbian conspiracy. Use          about timetables and prices can be found in English on the website.
marked taxis, make sure the meter is running, and if possible
call one in advance (the ones listed here are good). It’s also a
good idea to have your destination written down in Albanian.             Travel agents
Our favourite cabbie is Musa (tel. +386 49 85 14 50), a for-              Kosovo’s most reliable travel agencies.
mer economics teacher who reads Hegel and Kierkegaard                     Note to the numerous readers who are eager to go on holiday
and discusses life philosophy in his battered Merc.                       to Kosovo: please do not use the In Your Pocket comments
                                                                          feature to contact a travel agent, as we will delete these
London Taxi Service tel. +377 44 30 03 00/+381 messages. Use the agent’s email to contact them directly.
38 70 07 00. A fleet of 15 London black cabs, comfortably
seating 5 people.                                                         AltaVia Travel A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 27, tel. +381
Roberti Taxi tel. +381 38 50 00 06/+377 44 11 19 99. 38 54 35 43, fax +381 38 24 35 17, info@altaviatravel.
Titanic Taxi Rr. Shaip Kamberi, tel. +381 38 23 23 com, Friendly, professional and
22/+377 44 23 23 24.                                                      English-speaking travel agency. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30, Sat
Victory Taxi tel. +381 38 55 53 33/+377 44 11 12 22. 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
VIP Taxi tel. +381 38 50 04 44/+377 44 33 34 44.                          Be in Kosovo Rr. Jakov Xoxa 2, tel. +377 44 38 51
                                                                          09/+386 49 38 51 09,, www.
                                                                 Foreigner-oriented travel services including
Trains                                                                    hotel bookings, car rental, guiding, cultural and adventure tourism.
As the national railway company Kosovo Railways (KR) candidly             Kosova Airlines A-3, Rr. Garibaldi, tel. +381 38 22 02
admits on its website, it’s in a bad situation. Originally built by       20, fax +381 38 24 91 86, bookingprn@kosovaairlines.
the French (the Skopje-Mitrovica tracks were completed by                 com, Not an airline but a travel agent
them in 1874) and still known to older locals as the ‘French              selling tickets from their office and online by credit card.
road’ (Udha e Frengut), it is now seemingly operated more as              Agent for various airlines. Below the Grand Hotel. QOpen
an exercise in ethnic harmony than a useful service.                      08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
KR operates fast trains (IC) within Kosovo and to Skopje,
Freedom of Movement (F) trains linking the Serb enclaves
and local trains (LT) that stop at every tree. Tickets are
cheap and prices are determined by the number of zones
within Kosovo you travel. A ticket from Pristina to Peja costs
€3, Skopje €4; return tickets are 20% cheaper than two
singles. Tickets on the Freedom of Movement train are €0.50
regardless of destination. A confusing railway timetable can
be found online and if you’re lucky maybe in printed form at
the stations - ask for the orari i trenave brochure.
Pristina effectively has two train stations. West of the centre
near the end of Rruga Garibaldi, Pristina train station is noth-
ing short of disappointing (when In Your Pocket first dropped by
for information the man who worked there had gone for coffee).
The station serves trains to Peja and Skopje via Fushë Kosovë
train station, seven kilometres west of the city centre. This
second station is Kosovo’s railway hub and must have been                                                      The Pristina-Skopje express                                                                                     Spring - Summer 2011
38         MAIL & PHONES
     Post and telephone services are increasingly reliable and
     better value with the advent of competition.                      Telephones
                                                                       Calling Kosovo
                                                                       To phone to a Pristina landline, dial +381 (still the same as
     Express mail                                                      Serbia’s code), 38 (for Pristina) and the six-digit subscriber
     DHL A/B-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza 29b, tel. +381 38 24                  number. To call a mobile phone, dial the operator’s country code
     55 45, fax +381 38 24 93 07,,                (+377 or +386) and the phone number without the initial zero. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
     Closed Sun.                                                       Public telephones
     FedEx Rr. Eqrem Qabej 137-145, tel. +381 38 55 08 70,             Bright yellow public telephones are scattered around town
     fax +381 38 55 08 90,, www.                 and are card-operated. Phone cards come in values from QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.                       €3,50 upwards and can be bought from post offices and
     TNT A-3, Rr. Garibaldi, tel. +381 38 22 22 90, tntkoso-           kiosks. Instructions are written in English. Phoning to a, QOpen 08:00 - 17:00,                 landline in Western Europe costs about €0,25 per minute,
     Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.                                    to a mobile number about €0,50 per minute.
     UPS (ALD Express) B-3, Rr. UÇK 105/1, tel. +381
     38 24 22 22, fax +381 38 24 99 99,                   Mobile phones
     Express mail within Kosovo with ALD Express, abroad with          PTK operates the UN-initiated local mobile phone network
     UPS. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.                        Vala, whose international code is that of Monaco - misdial a
                                                                       digit and you may get Princess Stephanie on the blower. IPKO
                                                                       and D3 numbers start with Slovenia’s code +386.
     Internet access                                                   As you drive around Kosovo you may get ‘Welcome to Germany’
     Internet arrived with a bang in Kosovo just a few years ago.      text messages as some foreign operators have local mobile
     Many businesses now have websites, though many of them            networks around military bases - effectively offering the cheapest
     are appallingly designed. Now that most cafés offer free wifi,    roaming rates in Kosovo. Serbia’s Telenor network illegally cov-
     there are no more internet cafés in central Pristina.             ers parts of Kosovo, including areas of Pristina, with authorities
                                                                       regularly pulling down their masts. To avoid high roaming costs on
     Takime Bul. i Dëshmorëve 51, tel. +377 44 18 07 22,               your home network, buy a local prepaid SIM card at an IPKO or D3, Internet access from             Mobile shop, or at a post office for Vala. New SIM cards cost €5
     €1 per hour, CD burning, and ISP services. Check out the          and can be used immediately. Top-up cards are widely available.
     website for the English-language dating/socialising service.
     QOpen 09:00 - 01:00.                                              IPKO A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian, tel. +386 49 70 07
                                                                       00/+381 38 70 07 00,,
                                                                       IPKO also offers fixed-line phones with free installation and
     Post                                                              cheap calls worldwide. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
     The mail in Kosovo is run by the PTK (www.postaekosoves.          Vala A-4, Rr. Dardania, tel. +381 38 50 05 55, info@
     net). Their post offices handle mail, parcels, EMS parcel,
     service, and telephone calls to national and international        Z Mobile A/B-2, Rr. UÇK 105a, tel. +377 45 50 05
     numbers.                                                          00,,
     Sending a postcard or letter (under 20g) costs €0,20 within       D3 Rr. Dëshmoret e Kombit 78, tel. +381 38 50 03 00,
     Kosovo, €0,50 to neighbouring countries, €0,70 to the rest
     of Europe and €1.50-€2 outside Europe. Sending small
     packages (0.5-1kg) costs €1,40 within Kosovo, €8,70 to
     neighbouring countries, €10,70 to the rest of Europe and            City codes
     €10,70-15,50 to elsewhere.
                                                                         When calling from abroad or roaming, prefix with +381
     Central Post Office A-2, Rr. UÇK 66, info@post-                     and drop any first zero., The city centre               Gjakova 390          Gjilan 280      Ferizaj    029
     post office. Ironically, a listed historical building which was     Mitrovica 028        Peja 039        Pristina 038
     of importance to the wartime anti-fascist movement was              Prizren 029
     demolished illegally to make way for this ghastly new building.
     Have a think about that while you lick your stamps.
     Main Post Office Bul. i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 38 55 45
     54,,                  Country codes
     South of the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
                                                                         Albania       355    Hungary       36    Romania        40
                                                                         Australia     61     Ireland       353   Russia         7
       Laptop login                                                      Austria       43     Israel        972   Serbia         381
                                                                         Belarus       375    Italy         39    Slovakia       421
       Dozens of hotels, bars and cafés provide free wifi con-           Belgium       32     Japan         81    Slovenia       386
       nections, and it’s easy to find a place to check your email.      Bulgaria      359    Kosovo        381   Spain          34
       PTK’s wireless internet service (               Croatia       385    Latvia        371   Sweden         46
       offers access to all sorts of hotspots throughout the             Czech Rep.    420    Lithuania     370   Switzerland    41
       country for a monthly fee of €30. If you have a modem,            Denmark       45     Moldova       373   Turkey         90
       there’s also the DardaNet dialup internet service.                Estonia       372    Montenegro    381   UK             44
       Have your PC call tel. 90 90 and enter ptk as both the            Finland       358    Netherlands   31    Ukraine        380
       username and password and away you go. The service                France        33     Norway        47    USA            1
       is erratic, but better than nothing, and is charged at a          Germany       49     Poland        48
       reasonable €0.40/hour.                                            Greece        30     Portugal      351

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                 
                                                                                      SHOPPING                                      39

Pristina won’t be a major European shopping destination
anytime soon, but the situation has improved a lot in
the past few years. Now there are several department
stores and hypermarkets on the roads leading east and
south out of the city, and both variety and quality has
increased. In the centre, makeshift stalls are everywhere
selling sunglasses, cigarettes and books. A walk around
the central bazaar can be rewarding, with lots of small
furniture shops, some of which make the goods that they
sell. The bazaar also has a small modern market attached
with fake designer clothes, fruit and vegetables, pirate
CDs and walls of cigarettes.

Books & Press
In addition to the following shops, there are several book-
stands beside the Grand Hotel that have some English-
language books. For English-language local news, look for
the bimonthly Prishtina Insight newspaper.

Buzuku A-3, Rr. Edith Durham, tel. +377 44 23 87 38.                                                            The frame shop
In the alley near the Grand hotel, Buzuku is named after
the first Albanian book and has a small range of imported
novels, art, literature and Balkan-related books. QOpen           Fashion & Shoes
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.                                        Cool A-2, Rr. UÇK. High heels, dresses and skirts - from
Dit’ e Nat’ B-2, Rr. Fazli Grajqevci, tel. +386 49 25 63          chique to outrageous. Next to De Rada restaurant.
62, The city’s first book café has a good       Diesel A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë shopping
selection of English-language books and magazines (including      centre, tel. +377 44 11 53 73. Diesel and G-Star clothing
the regional In Your Pocket city guides) plus a cool café. Any    and Camper shoes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
books you may desire can be ordered from abroad. QOpen            Ervi A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë shopping
07:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.                                 centre, tel. +381 38 22 23 78. Sports clothes and shoes
Dukag jini International Bookshop B-3, Bul. Nëna                  by Converse and Nike. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Tereza 20, tel. +381 38 24 81 43, info@dukag jini-                Miss Sixty Albi Center, Veternik, tel. +381 38 500 20, www.dukag Pristina’s                 21 00. Ladies’ fashion. QOpen 08:30 - 22:30.
largest bookshop has a diverse selection of English-              OVS Industry Veternik, tel. +381 38 55 66 88, www.
language books, maps, some magazines (including The      Italian fashion at reasonable prices. In the
Economist), and several regional In Your Pocket city              Gorenje building. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
guide titles. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.             Springfield Albi Center, Veternik, tel. +381 38 50 02
Closed Sun.                                                       02. Modern fashion, and some shoes.
Jinglebells Rr. Ernest Koliqi 12, tel. +386 49 74                 Tom Tailor Albi Center, Veternik, tel. +381 38 500 20
11 70. An oddly-named shop selling English and other-             23 15. Fashion for men and women.
language books, newspapers, and souvenirs. Opposite               Zara Rr. Garibaldi 12, tel. +381 38 23 00 32. Women’s
the EULEX HQ.                                                     fashion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Monaco A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë, tel.
+377 44 11 09 81. A restaurant with a reliable supply of
foreign newspapers and magazines on sale. Papers arrive           Flowers & Plants
around 18:00 daily except Sunday. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,            Remember Me B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 3/1, tel. +381
Sun 10:00 - 23:00.                                                38 24 53 45/+377 44 28 34 44,,
                                                         Beautiful bouquets and tempting
                                                                  chocolates (€20/kg). Delivers anywhere in Pristina (€3) and
CDs & DVDs                                                        Kosovo (€6), and takes orders online or by phone with credit
You’ll understand that most of those CDs and DVDs that are        card payment. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
attractively priced at €2-4 are illegal copies, and customs
officials abroad may impose stiff fines for importing them.
Ironically, the contraband is mainly sold to foreigners who       Gifts & Souvenirs
are here to restore law and order.                                Antika B-3, Rr. Agim Ramadani, tel. +377 44 20 96 89.
                                                                  One of the few gift shops in town; it sells Skenderbeg statues,
DEA Productions A-4, Rr. Ilaz Kodra 4, tel. +377 44               Indian products and other presents. Near Rruga Qamil Hoxha.
23 28 58. Specialists in Albanian music of all types, find row    QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
upon row of CDs and DVDs of the works of people such as           Silver Gallery A-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 15, tel. +381 38
Sabriu and Adelina, plus a small selection of traditional Alba-   24 85 20. A boutique with delicate Prizren filigran jewellery
nian instruments including a nice selection of hand-carved        as well as imported silver items from Turkey. QOpen 10:00
lahutas. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.                         - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Ginger A-3, Rr. Edith Durham 82, Avalla, tel. +381 38             Women for Women B-2, Rr. UÇK 42, tel. +381 38 24 84
22 71 93/+377 44 12 63 05, gingermaterials@gmail.                 17,, www.womenforwomen.
com. The knowledgeable owner of this highbrow CD, DVD and         org. The international organisation promoting women’s rights
book shop sells ‘music and films that matter’: classic films      and self-sufficiency in former war zones has shops in Pristina
and music you don’t see in the other shops, and a good place      selling hand-made local handicrafts such as rugs, aprons,
to get advice on local music and ask about gigs. Literature,      placemats and clothing. Also available online. QOpen 08:00
music and art books too. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.         - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.                                                                          Spring - Summer 2011
40          SHOPPING

       What you said                                                   Photography
                                                                       Foto Gagi A-3, Fehmi Agani 40, tel. +381 38 23 66 66.
       A selection of reader’s comments from the Pristina              QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
       In Your Pocket website. You too can add your opinion,           Topfoto A-2, Rr. UÇK 17, Qafa Centre, tel. +381 38 24
       below every review on www.pristina.inyourpocket.                30 44. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

       Ambasador                                                       Speciality shops
       Great service, nice breakfast, and the sauna is good.           Lumi Bakery B-4, Rr. Eqerem Qabej, tel. +381 38 22 97
       Best hotel that I have seen in Pristina.                        52/+377 44 11 53 86. Delicious local and foreign-style pastries,
                                                Vaari, Finland         cakes and bread, all served with a smile. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
                                                                       Natyra C-3/4, Rr. Bregu i Diellit 5, tel. +381 44 20 86
       Sara                                                            28. Pronounced natura and meaning nature, this lovely little
       I really loved my one-night stay here. My room was spot-        English-speaking shop is crammed full of huge sacks of beans,
       less and quiet, and bed was comfy. Staff were without ex-       rice, nuts and spices. Also find fresh eggs, Brazilian coffee
       ception helpful and friendly. Best of all, really good value.   beans and some delicious local honey. Up an alley east of the
                        Philomena O’Brien, Belgrade, Serbia            centre. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.
                                                                       Runway Duty Free Pristina Airport, tel. +381 38 59
       Kosovo Museum                                                   44 22, Beyond customs at the airport, Runway
       Had an awesome time today with some fellow US Army              offers officially imported and guaranteed original perfumery,
       National Guard soldiers while touring the museum.               jewellery, fashion, tobacco and liquor products, besides of-
                                    Levi Biass, Atlanta, USA           fering souvenirs and the best range of Kosovo T-shirts in the
                                                                       country. QOpen 04:00 - 21:00.
       I love Amelie, such great food and I am SO happy they
       have complied with the non-smoking law, Bravo! I’ll be          Sports
       there all of the time now.                                      Megasport B-2, Rr. Agim Ramadani 59, tel. +381 38
                                   Maggie, Pristina, Kosovo            22 34 42, A good selection of equip-
                                                                       ment including exercise bikes, running machines, table tennis
       Mumtaz Mahal                                                    equipment, squash, badminton etc. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
       Really really good; never had anything there that I did         Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
       not love.                                                       Runners A-3, Rr. Garibaldi, tel. +377 44 13 83 32. Sports
                                                    VM, USA            shoes and apparel. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
       Fantastic little place. Great food, great atmosphere,           Supermarkets & Malls
       superb service and friendly prices. Everything we ordered       Most foreigners do their shopping at one of several malls or
       was just great.                                                 ‘hypermarkets’ around town.
                            Slobodan Milic, Kraljevo, Serbia
                                                                       Albi Mall Veternik, Skopje road, tel. +381 38 50 02
       Sokoli e Mirusha                                                02,, The
       The best place to have an unforgettable night, and              recently expanded Albi Mall now has two additional floors,
       never never boring even if you go every night! The best         over 100 shops including a hypermarket, a good electronics
       jazz music ever.                                                shop and several boutiques with genuine, imported brand
                                     Arta, Prishtina, Kosovo           clothing like Tom Tailor, Vero Moda, Springfield and Jack
                                                                       Jones. There’s also a bowling alley and a kids’ playground.
                                                                       QOpen 07:30 - 22:30.
                                                                       Grand Store Veternik, Skopje road, tel. +377 44 48 88
     Musical instruments                                               77,, A
     Pr o Music A-4, Rr. Perandori Justinian, tel.                     large mall with a department store and hypermarket (open
     +377 44 50 33 22, inf, w w w.                   08:00-23:00). On the upper floors find Diesel, Levi’s, Gap A small sh op packe d wi th mostl y              Kids and some good electronics shops. For children there’s a
     el e c tri c instrum en ts, plus lots of strin gs an d oth er     Kid’s Land, for others there’s the Vertigo bar/restaurant. The
     spare par ts. Q Op en 09:00 - 19:00, Sa t 10:00 -                 excellent Gizzi Grill restaurant is just outside. A free shuttle bus
     18:00. Close d Sun.                                               runs to the mall every hour. QOpen 10:00 - 22.00.
                                                                       Maxi Hipermarket A/B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci, tel. +381
                                                                       38 22 52 30,,
     Office Equipment & Supplies                                       Very handy for the city centre, this large basement ‘hipermar-
     Albus Rr. Eqr em Çab ej, tel. +381 38 55 55                       ket’ is as modern as it gets, and sells the usual goods plus
     27/+381 38 53 44 45, inf,                          wine, pork, fresh fish (sometimes live), foreign magazines
     w w Office supplies, school materials             and bakery products. Several other outlets across town.
     and compu ter necessi ties. Dealer for Casio, Senator,            QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
     Emtec, Targus, OfficePoint and more. Q Open 08:00 -               Minimax Arberia, Film City, tel. +381 38 24 72 29,
     19:00. Closed Sun.                                       Strategically placed near the exit
     Comtrade Computers Rr. Eqerem Çabej, tel. +381                    of a large NATO base at the edge of town, Minimax has
     38 22 26 95/+377 44 22 26 95, www.comtradecom-                    three floors of casual and sports clothes (including excellent Computers, printers and other hardware and            Goretex coats). The ground floor is crammed with cut-price
     software for in the office and at home. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.      CDs and DVDs (under €2) and a collection of porn films that’s
     Closed Sun.                                                       impressive by any standards. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                  
                                                                               DIRECTORY                                       41

Find business, health, officials and other useful contact
details here.

Deloitte Kosova Rr. Bedri Pejani 3, tel. +381 38 24 55
82, fax +381 38 24 55 84.

Several commercial banks have ATMs across Kosovo that
can be used with international debit and credit cards.

Banka Ekonomike A-2, Rr. Mig jeni 1, tel. +383 38 22
53 53, fax +381 38 22 54 54,,
BKT A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 9, tel. +381 38 22 29 06,
BPB (Bank for Private Business) B-2, Rr. UÇK 41,
tel. +381 38 24 46 66,
Central Bank of Kosovo (BQK) A-3, Rr. Garibaldi 33,
tel. +381 38 222 055,
NLB Prishtina A-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 5, tel. +381 38 24
61 85,, www.nlbprishtina-
ProCredit Bank A-3, Rr. George Bush, tel. +381
38 55 55 55,, www.
Raiffeisen Bank B-4, Rr. UÇK 51, tel. +381 38 22 22
22,                                                                  New architecture in Pristina
TEB Bank B-2, Rr. Agim Ramadani 15, tel. +381 38
23 00 00, fax +381 38 24 77 99,               11, fax +381 38 23 50 33,, www.ks-
                                                      Publishes lots of information online in English.
Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce in Kosovo A-2,                    Cleaning
Rr. Gustav Majer 6, tel. +381 38 24 60 12, fax +381            Divine Cleaning Service Rr. Ismail Qemali 76, Arbëria,
38 24 80 12,, www.amchamksv.                tel. +377 44 54 12 21,, www.
org. The American business association, regularly publishing House cleaning from €20-35, laundry/
the Kosovo Business Journal which can be downloaded free       ironing service, pet- and house sitting, and an After Party
from the website.                                              Rescue service.
Austrian Chamber of Commerce Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi                Pio A-4, Rr. Dardania SU1/5, 32, tel. +381 38 55 82
22, tel. +381 38 54 14 00,             13/+377 44 17 34 47,
Croatian Chamber of Commerce B-2, Rr. Fehmi                    Cleaning of offices, houses and apartments, window and
Agani 69B-1a, tel. +381 38 24 33 99, fax +381 38 24            carpet cleaning, junk removal, and more. QOpen 08:00 -
33 98,,                             20:00. Closed Sun.
Kosovo Chamber of Commerce A-3, Bul. Nëne
Tereza 20, tel. +381 38 22 47 41/+377 44 50 12
09, fax +381 38 22 42 99,, www.               Dentists                                              Eurodent B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 12, tel. +381 38 22 07
Riinvest B-3, Industrial Zone, tel. +381 38 60 13 20,          82. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
fax +381 38 60 12 33,,          Petadent B-4, Rr. Ulpiana U3 III/B1, tel. +381 38 55 The Institute for Development       36 58/+377 44 62 54 60. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed
Research.                                                      Sat, Sun.
Statistical Office of Kosovo (Enti i Statistikës së
Kosovës) B-2, Rr. Zenel Salihu 4, tel. +381 38 23 51
                                                               American School of Kosova A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj,
 Bowling                                                       Pallati i Rinisë, tel. +381 38 22 72 77, info@askosova.
                                                               org, The city-centre American school
 Bo Bowling Rr. Shefqet Shkupi, tel. +377 44 24 12             is an elementary and high school with about 450 pupils.
 51/+381 38 50 00 60. Pristina’s best bowling centre           American University in Kosovo (AUK) Rr. Nazim
 with good equipment and a lively cocktail bar and crepe       Gaffuri 21, tel. +381 38 60 86 08, fax +381 38 60 80
 restaurant. Also at the Albi Mall. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00,       24,, Kosovo’s
 Sat, Sun 14:00 - 01:00.                                       leading private university works with the Rochester Institute
 Princi i Arbërit Bowling Rr. Vellezerit Fazliu,               of Technology in the US. Also operates the Training and
 Kodra e Trimave, tel. +381 38 24 42 44, www.                  Development Institute offering Microsoft Academy and other Several bowling lanes inside        international training courses for business.
 the Princi i Arbërit hotel.                                   University of Prishtina B-3, Rr. George Bush, tel. +381
                                                               38 24 41 83,,                                                                      Spring - Summer 2011
42         DIRECTORY
                                                                       Malaysia A-3, Rr. Bedri Shala 48, Velania, tel. +381 38
      Sports                                                           24 34 67, fax +381 38 24 34 64.
                                                                       Netherlands Rr. Xhemajl Berisha 12, tel. +381 38 51
      Fitness Gym Prishtina A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj,                   61 01, fax +381 38 51 61 03,, www.mfa.
      Pallati i Rinisë dhe i Sporteve, info@fitness-prishtina.         nl/en/europe/kosovo/embassy_pristina.
      com, Pristina’s best gym              Norway Rr.Sejdiu Kryeziu nr. 6, tel. +381 38 23 21 11
      has 300 square metres of modern equipment and train-             00, fax +381 38 23 21 11 22,,
      ers. QOpen 10:00 - 22.00. Closed Sun.                  
                                                                       Romania Rr. Azem Jashanica 25, Arbëria, tel. +381 38
      Gërmia Park swimming pool Rr. Nazim Gafurri.                     24 62 72,
      Large open-air swimming pool in the park. Q Admis-               Russia Rr. Eduard Lir 20, tel. +381 38 24 71 12, fax
      sion €1,5.                                                       +381 38 24 71 13,
                                                                       Slovakia Rr. Metush Krasniqi 7, tel. +381 38 24 01
      Prishtina Golf Llapnasellë, tel. +377 45 34 34                   40, fax +381 38 24 94 99, branchemb.pristina@mzv.
      33/+389 49 34 34 33,, www.                sk, Minigolf with a difference; no concrete       Slovenia A-3, Rr. Anton Ceta 6, tel. +381 38 24 62 55,
      here, but 18 grass miniature versions of famous holes            fax +381 38 24 62 56,
      across the world, so you can putt your way from St Andrews       Sweden Rr. Perandori Justinian 19, tel. +381 38 24 57
      to Ballybunion. There’s also a driving range and a restaurant.   95, fax +381 38 24 57 91, ambassaden.pristina@sida.
      QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Minigolf €5,        se,
      children €3. Driving range clubs €5, 50/100 balls €5/8.          Switzerland Rr. Adrian Krasniqi 11, tel. +381 38 24
                                                                       80 88/+381 38 24 80 89, fax +381 38 24 80 78, pri.
     Foreign representations                                           Turkey Rr. Ismail Qemali 59, tel. +381 38 22 60 44,
     Many countries now have embassies, consulates or liaison          fax +381 38 22 60 31,
     offices in Pristina. Their use to travellers in need of help      United Kingdom Rr. Ismail Qemali 6, tel. +381 38 25
     is often quite limited, and you may have to contact or visit      47 00, fax +381 38 24 97 99, britishembassy.pristina@
     your Belgrade or Skopje embassy. Losing your passport in,
     Kosovo is a very bad idea; your representation office can         USA Rr. Nazim Hikmet 30, tel. +381 38 54 95 16,
     probably only help you with documents for travel to your          fax +381 38 54 98 90,, http://
     Skopje embassy or with an emergency passport that only  
     allows for travel straight home.

     Albania Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 18, tel. +381 38 24 82 08,              Hair & Beauty
     fax +381 38 24 82 09,                  Menda A-2/3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22 78 00.
     Austria Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi 22, tel. +381 38 24 92 84,             A good, modern hairdresser in a designer space. Men’s cuts
     fax +381 38 24 92 85,                    from €8, women from €18. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
     Belgium Rr. Ilirida 23A, tel. +381 38 73 47 34, fax               Vogue Hair Rr. Agim Ramadani 22/31, tel. +381 38
     +381 38 73 57 35,, www.                  24 72 96,, Join                                           the local celebrities at the best-known salon in the city, with
     Bulgaria Rr. Ismail Qemali 12, tel. +381 38 24 55 40, fax         several English-speaking hairdressers.
     +381 38 24 55 43,,
     China Rr. Ismail Qemali 47, tel. +381 38 24 85 08, fax
     +381 38 24 91 26.                                                 Hospitals & Clinics
     Croatia A-3, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 20, tel. +381 38 22 39             Euromed Rr. Nëna Tereza 158, Fushë Kosova, tel.
     78, fax +381 38 22 39 79,               +381 38 53 40 72, fax +381 38 53 40 73, info@klinika-
     Czech Republic Rr. Ismail Qemali 31, tel. +381 38 24    , Modern,
     66 76, fax +381 38 24 87 82,             private general hospital just west of Pristina.
     Finland A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 19, tel. +381 38             Poliklinika Radiolog jike Medico Rr. Lamella 11-10,
     73 70 00, fax +381 38 73 28 63, sanomat.pri@formin.               tel. +377 44 16 72 99. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
     fi,                                        - 16:00. Closed Sun.
     France Rr. Ismail Qemali 67, tel. +381 38 22 45 88                Rezonanca A-3, Rr. Ahmet Zogu, tel. +381 38 24 38
     00/+381 38 22 45 88 05, fax +381 38 22 45 88 01,                  01/+377 44 12 96 78, fax +381 38 24 56 50, mail@       , Q Open 24hrs.
     Germany Rr. Azem Jashanica 17, tel. +381 38 25 45
     00, fax +381 38 25 45 36,, www.                                                International organisations
     Greece Rr. Ismail Qemali 68, tel. +381 38 24 30 13,               Council of Europe Kragujevci 8, UNHCR HQ, tel. +
     fax +381 38 24 55 33,                          381 38 24 37 49, fax + 381 38 24 37 52,
     Hungary Rr. 24 Maji, 23, tel. +381 38 24 77 63, fax               DAI (Development Alternative Inc) Rr. Shaban Pol-
     +381 38 24 77 64,                     luzha 3,,
     Italy Rr. Azem Jashanica 5, tel. +381 38 24 49 25, fax            EBRD (European Bank for Reconstruction and
     +381 38 22 49 29,                  Development) A - 2, Rr. Agim Ramadani, tel. +381 38
     Japan A-3, Rr. Rexhep Mala 43, tel. +381 38 24 99 95,             24 81 53, fax +381 38 24 81 52,,
     fax +381 38 24 54 34,                  The EBRD uses investment to help build
     Luxembourg Rr. Metush Krasniqi 14, tel./fax +381                  the market economy and democracy in Kosovo.
     38 22 67 87.                                                      ESI (Kosovar Stability Initiative) A-3, Rr. Garibaldi H11-6,
     Macedonia Rr. 24 Maji, tel. +381 38 24 74 62, fax                 tel. +381 38 22 23 21,, A
     +381 38 24 74 63,,                   non-profit research and policy institute. The website has many inter-                                                   esting articles about everything from energy policy to emigration.

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                   
44         DIRECTORY
                                                                      World Bank A-3, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 3, tel. +381 38
      The Best of Pristina                                            24 94 59,,
                                                                      EC (European Commission Liaison Office) Rr.
      The staff at Pristina In Your Pocket have had fun writing       Kosovo 1, tel. +381 38 513 13 20 00, fax +381 38 51
      what we thing about the city’s restaurants, bars, clubs         31 305,, www.delprn.
      and sights – but now it’s time for the readers to make
      themselves heard. What is your favourite place in Pristina
      for local food, for a snack, for drinks, or for a conference?
      In the next edition we’ll have a questionnaire and an           Language schools
      online poll. Write to us at           Britannica ELT Rr. Imzot Nikprelaj, Ulpiana, tel. +381
      to let us know your favourites so we can draw up the            38 54 46 53,, www.bri-
      shortlist for voting. The categories are...            Albanian language courses for foreigners.
      Best Kosovan restaurant
      Best Italian restaurant                                         Lawyers
      Best international restaurant                                   Ekrem Smajli B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 9/1, tel. +381 38
      Best fast food restaurant                                       22 79 24.
      Best burek shop                                                 Fazli Balaj B-2, Rr. UÇK 47/D, tel. +377 44 11 50 26.
      Best pizza restaurant
      Best café/bar
      Best club                                                       Libraries
      Best cultural institution                                       Municipality Library Hivzi Sylejmani A-2, Rr. UÇK
      Best Pristina sight                                             10, tel. +381 38 23 29 80. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
      Best daytrip destination                                        08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun.
      Best daytrip destination                                        National & University Library of Kosova B-3, Sheshi
      Best shopping centre                                            Hasan Prishtina, tel./fax +381 38 24 96 50, www.
      Best business hotel                                    For a description, see the Sightseeing
      Best leisure hotel                                              chapter. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
      Best hotel outside Pristina
      Best conference venue
                                                                      AMM Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Kino ABC 1, tel./fax +381 38
     EULEX Rr. Muharrem Fejza, tel. +386 43 78 20 00, fax             24 49 36,,
     +386 43 78 65 56,, www.eulex-               Outdoor advertising, maintenance and office cleaning services. The European Union Rule of Law Mission, which         Ogilvy Kosovo B-1/2, Rr. Ilaz Agushi 4, tel. +381 38 23
     supports the Kosovo police, judiciary and customs.               23 33,,
     ICS (International Crisis Group) A-2, Rr. Fehmi
     Agani 36-1/1, tel./fax +381 38 24 35 61, pristina@cri-, A think tank ‘working         Massage
     to prevent conflict worldwide’. Several dozen articles about     Sala Thai Massage & Spa A-2, Rr. UÇK, Qafa complex,
     Kosovo are online.                                               tel. +377 44 16 85 21. On the first floor of the Qafa complex,
     IMF (International Monetary Fund) Bul. Nëna Tereza,              Sala Thai offers traditional Thai massage for €25/hr, Swedish
     tel. +381 38 24 46 55,                              massage at €35/hr, Thai herbal massage, foot massage,
     KFOR (Kosovo Force) Arberia, Film City, tel. +381                body scrub, facial treatment, aromatherapy and a sauna.
     38 50 36 03 20 70,, www.nato.
     int/kfor. The NATO-led international force responsible for
     establishing and maintaining security in Kosovo.                 Media
     KFOS (Kosovo Foundation for Open Society) Rr.                    Kosovalive A - 3, Pallati i Shtypit, Anex 2, tel./fax
     Imzot Nikëprelaj, Villa 13, Ulpiana, tel. +381 38 54 21          +381 38 24 82 76,, www.
     57,, Active in the fields   Local news in English.
     of education and youth, human rights, civil society, media,      Prishtina Insight tel. +381 38 24 33 58/+381 38 22
     women programs, etc.                                             44 98,, www.prishtinainsight.
     KIPRED (Kosovar Institute for Policy Research                    com. Prishtina Insight is a quality biweekly English-language
     & Development) C-3/4, Rr. Rexhep Mala 5A, tel./fax               newspaper published by BIRN, the Balkan Investigative Re-
     + 381 38 22 77 78,,              porting Network. The paper is for sale at €1 at the airport,
     Works to promote democracy in Kosovo.                            hotels and shops, and as a PDF by internet subscription.
     OSCE A-2, Rr. Tirana, tel. +381 38 50 01 62, fax +381            Radio 21 A-3, Pallati i Shtypit Anex 2, tel. +381 38 55
     38 24 07 11,                                00 88,,
     PAK (Privatisation Agency of Kosovo) B-1, Rr. Ilir               RTK B-2, Rr. Xhemail Prishtina 12, tel. +381 38 23
     Konushevci 8, tel. +381 38 50 04 00,,            01 02/+381 38 23 12 11, Kosovo’s                                                  public television.
     UNDP (United Nations Development Programme)
     A - 3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 16, tel. +381 38 24 90 66,
     fax + 381 38 24 90 67,, www.                Ministries                                                     Ministry for Community and Return B-2, Bul. Nëne
     UNICEF (United Nations Children’s Fund) B-3, Rr.                 Tereza, tel. +381 38 55 20 4716 50 4, sabit.hykolli@
     Ali Pashë Tepelena 1, tel. +381 38 24 92 30, fax +381  ,
     38 24 92 34,,               Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry & Rural Develop-
     UNMIK A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 50 46                ment Bul. Nëne Tereza 35, tel. +381 38 21 18 21, jusuf.
     04/+377 44 502 017,               ,

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                              
46         DIRECTORY
     Ministry of Education, Science & Technology Rr.
     Musine Kokalari 18, tel. +381 38 54 09 74, masht@                Emergencies,
     Ministry of Environment & Spatial Planning C-1,                  Police 92       Fire 93         Ambulance 94
     Rr. Pashko Vasa, tel. +381 38 51 78 00, fax +381 38
     51 78 45,
     Ministry of Finance & Economy A-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza            Pharmacies
     21, tel. +381 38 20 03 43 39/+381 38 20 03 41 71,              Pharmacies (barnatore) like to close early - we gave up look-,                             ing for a 24hr pharmacy. Bring all your basic medical supplies
     Ministry of Foreign Affairs Bul. Nëne Tereza, tel. +381        with you, and get good health insurance before you arrive.
     38 21 39 63, fax +381 38 21 39 85,,                                            AD Pharma B-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e Kombit 64, tel. +381
     Ministry of Labour & Social Welfare tel. +381 38               38 55 06 98. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
     20 02 13, fax +381 38 24 42 29, info_mpms@yahoo.               Leka Med B-1, Veternik, tel. +381 38 54 88 45, fax
     com,                                      +381 38 54 07 12. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
     Ministry of Mining and Energy Bul. Nëne Tereza,
     tel. +381 38 20 02 15 05,,                                            Public Utilities
     Ministry of Public Administration Rr. Pashko Vasa,             For when the light goes off or the water turns brown.
     tel. +381 38 20 03 09 42,, www.                                                KEK A-4, Rr. Ilaz Kodra, tel. +381 38 22 78 42, www.
     Ministry of Trade amd Industry A-3, Rr. Muharrem      The service you’ll love to hate. While you
     Fejza, tel. + 381 38 51 21 64, fax + 381 38 51 27 98,          still have electricity, check the website for an estimate of how                                                many hours of power you’ll have today.
     Ministry of Transport & Communication B-2, Bul.                KRM Pastrimi Bul. Bill Clinton, tel. +381 38 52 51
     Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 20 02 80 05,,          91, fax +381 38 60 31 51,                                                  Waste utility.
     Prime Minister’s Office B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza,                 KUR Prishtina A-4, Bul. Bill Clinton, tel. +381 38 60
     tel. +381 38 21 12 02,, www.               30 10,,                                           Pristina’s water utility.
                                                                    Termokosi A-4, Dardania p.n, tel. +381 38 54 40 15,
                                                          , The heating
     Municipality                                                   utility. Ring these chaps when you’re not so warm and kosi.
     Town Hall B-2, Rr. Trepca 2, tel. +381 38 24 53 48, Pristina’s mayor is Mr. Isa
     Mustafa.                                                       Real estate
                                                                    Many ‘internationals’ prefer to live in the Arbëria/Dragodan
                                                                    district on the hillside west of the centre. Rents vary per
     NGOs                                                           area; apartments in the centre are around €400 per month,
     Balkan Sunflowers A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i           Sunny Hill €500 and Arbëria up to €700; several agencies
     Rinisë, 114, tel. +381 38 24 62 99, www.balkansun-             can help you find a place to stay, but alternatively just walk International volunteers participating in local   around town and look for ‘apartment for rent’ signs. To avoid
     community life.                                                hassle, sign a proper contract, make sure the landlord does
     CHwB (Cultural Heritage without Borders) Rr. R.                all utility payments, and be clear up front about your privacy
     Zogoviq 8, tel./fax +381 38 24 39 18, kosovo@chwb.             (see for more tips). Foreigners rarely buy
     org, Works to preserve and pro-            houses here, but prices of quality houses are fairly stable
     mote endangered cultural heritage. Also a major contributor    at €1,200-2,000 per square metre.
     to the Prizren and Peja In Your Pocket guides.
     Çohu tel. +381 38 24 85 06/+377 44 11 05 08, www.              Eco Impex B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 9/1, tel. +381 38 24 Fighting corruption and promoting democracy.         92 64, fax +381 38 24 92 63,,
     Ombudsperson B-4, Rr. Agim Ramadani, tel. +381        Property to rent, as well as apart-
     38 50 14 01, fax +381 38 54 53 02, ombudsperson@               ments, houses and land for sale., www.ombudspersonkosovo.                Prishtina Property A-2, Rr. Edit Durham, tel. +377 44
     org. Sami Kurteshi investigates abuse of authority and         13 06 15, fax +381 38 24 48 98, rent@prishtinaproperty.
     general incompetence by public institutions in Kosovo. A       com, The first real estate
     busy man indeed.                                               company in town with detailed photos of their apartments,
     Save the Children Rr. Nazim Hikmet 4, tel. +381 38             houses, offices and land online.
     23 12 96,                             YREA Rr. Lekë Dukagjini 6/6, tel. +377 44 55 01 11,
     USAID Rr. Ismail Qemali 1, tel. +381 38 24 36 73, fax, Your
     + 381 38 24 94 93,, www.             Real Estate Agent has long and short-term apartment rental. Aims to help the private sector develop,
     encourages democratic institutions, and rebuilds community
     infrastructure.                                                Relocations
                                                                    Matrix Relocations tel. +381 38 548 265, www.
     Oculo Optika B-2, Rr. Agim Ramadani 52, tel. +381
     38 22 16 21,, www.ocu-                 Translators & Interpreters QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.           V&R Rr. 28 Nentori BB 1/5, 1/32, tel. +386 49 17 34
     Closed Sun.                                                    47. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                             
                            KOSOVO MAP                                 47

                            Strolling along pedestrianised Bul. Nenë Tereza                  Spring - Summer 2011

      Index                                                   Hemingway
                                                              Himalayan Gorkha
                                                                                          Novo Brdo
                                                                                                                      Route 66
                                                              Home                  20    Ora                   14    Royal                   14
     A&A                    17   Cathedral              32    Il Passatore          21    ORTA                  29    Rron                    22
     Academy Building       29   Click                  24    Independence Museum 29      Osteria Basilico      21    Rugova's Grave          33
     Adria                  14   Clinton Billboard &          Izzy's Deli           21    Paddy O'Brien's       28    Sara                    16
     Afa                    14   Statue                 33    Jashar Pasha Mosque 30      Palace of Youth & Sports    Select Bistro           20
     Amadeus                18   Clock Tower            30    Jazz Club 212         28                          32    Shadërvani Fountain     30
     Ambasador              12   Country House          22    Jewish Cemetery       33    Pandora               17    Skanderbeg statue       33
     Amélie             21, 24   Crème de la Crème      24    Kocadishi House       30    Pandora Apartments 14       Sokoli e Mirusha        28
     Archaeological Park 32      Cube                   25    Kosova Art Gallery    29    Parcae                20    Stacion                 29
     Aroma Bistro           21   Depo                   25    Kosovo Museum         29    Parku i Qytetit       32    St. Nicholas Church     33
     Arte                   20   De Rada                18    Le Siam Thai          22    Parku i Taukbahqes 32       Strip Depot             25
     Avenue Bar             24   Dit' e Nat'            24    Liburnia 1&2          22    Parku Varrezat e            Syri i Kaltër           24
     Baci                   12   Duplex                 25    Lord                  16    Dëshmorëve            32    Te Komiteti             20
     Baraka                 24   Elzar                  24    Lounge Food & More 20       Pejton                14    The Cuban               25
     Baron                  18   Emerald                16    Luxor                 14    People's Bistro & Wine      Tiffany's               22
     Bazaar                 30   Ethnographic Museum    29    Lyon                  14    Bar                   28    Tingell Tangell         25
     Begolli                16   Ex                     18    Ma Belle              24    Peppermint            25    Tokyo                   21
     Bel Ami                17   Fatih Mosque           30    Maroon Pub            28    Photos of the missing 33    Trafik Galeri           25
     Bistro Bar             24   Filikaqa               28    Metro Café            21    Pinocchio             21    Ulpiana                 33
     Bollywood              17   Fresko                 21    Mexicana              22    Pinocchio Apartments 14     Ultra                   20
     Bosna 2                18   Friends Sandwich Bar   21    Mollëkuq ja           25    Pirinaz Mosque        30    Union Hotel building    33
     Bosna 4                18   Full House             25    Monument of                 Pishat                22    Victory                 14
     Bukka                  24   Gagi Café              18    Brotherhood and Unity 32    Pjata                 20    Vila Corona             17
     Café e Vogel           24   Gërmia Park            32    Morena                25    Pllaza                16    Vila Gërmia             20
     Cantina am/pm          22   Gizzi Grill            18    Mother Teresa statue 33     Princesha Gresa       20    Villa Lira              20
     Čao                    22   Gorenje Niti Tiki      16    Mozaik                20    Princi i Arbërit      16    Xhema                   16
     Çarshia Mosque         30   Gračanica Monastery    32    Mumtaz Mahal          17    Prishtina             14    Xhoni's Bar             25
     Catholic Cathedral     33   Grand                  12    National Library      32    Proper Pizza          21    XIX                     21
     Cavallero              22   Great Hamam            30    National Martyr's           Publicco              25    YREA                    16
     Centro                 14   Guesthouse Velania     16    Monument              32    Puro                  22    Zahir Pajaziti statue   33
     Chalet Denis           18   Hamam Jazz Bar         28    Newborn               14    Real                  16    Zanzibar                28
     Chinese Restaurant 17       Hani i 2 Robertëve     18    Newborn Monument 33         Renaissance II        20    Zogu                    16
     Christ the Saviour          Hard Rockers Club      28    Ninety-One            28    Rings                 20

                                                              Hajrulla Abdullahu C-4      Luan Haradinaj     A-2/3    Sali Mani            C-1
      Street register                                         Haki Pava.            C-1   Maliq P. Gjinolli     B-1   Sami Peja           B-3
                                                              Haki Tahaj            C-1   Mark Isak          A/B-2    Selman R.            C-2
     All the street names        Bajram Bahtiri A-1/2,B-1     Hakif Zejnullahu      B-4   Mbreti Zogu I       A-3/4   Sejdi Kryeziu        A-3
     below refer to the          Bedri P.               B-2   Halil Alidemaj        B-3   Mbreti Bardhyl        B-1   Selami Pulaha        A-4
     Pristina city centre map    Bulevardi Bill Clinton A-4   Hamdi Mram.           B-2   Mehmet A.V.           A-1   Shaban Polluzha      B-2
     on pages 48-49 and          Bulevardi Nëne Tereza        Hamzë Jashari      B-2/3    Mehmet P.D.           A-1   Shaip Spah.          C-3
     are prefixed with Rruga                     A-3,B-2/3    Haqif Tetova          B-1   Meto Bajraktari       B-2   Shefqet K.        C-2/3
     (Rr.) except for the        Bulevardi i Deshmorëve       Haxhi Zeka      B-1/2,C-1   Migjeni               A-2   Shefqet Zeka         B-1
     squares (sheshi) and                               A-4   Henrik Baric       B-1/2    Mihail Grameno        C-1   Sheshi Hasan Prishtina
     boulevards (Bulevardi).     Butrinti               C-1   Henry Dynan        A/B-4    Mirko Gashi           B-1                       B-3
                                 Çajupi                 B-2   Hilë Mosi           C-1/2   Mithat Frashëri       A-1   Shkodra              C-1
     1 Tetori             C-3    Dervish Rozhaja        C-4   Hilmi Rakovica        C-4   Mitrovica          B-3/4    Sokol Dobr.          A-2
     2 Korriku            B-3    Dimitrije T.           B-3   Hoxhë H.Tahsini C-1/2       Mujë Krasniqi         B-4   Sokol Sopi           C-3
     24 Maji              A-1    Eduard Lir             A-1   Hoxhë K.            B/C-1   Mujo Ulqinaku         A-3   Svetozar Markovic B-2
     Abdyl Frashëri     B-3/4    Emin Duraku            B-2   Hysni Curri           C-2   Murat Mehmeti         A-1   Sylejman Vokshi     B-3
     Adem Gashi           C-1    Enver Berisha          C-1   Ibrahim B.            C-2   Musine Kokolari       A-4   Taip K.              B-2
     Adem Gllavica        B-1    Eqrem Qabej            C-2   Ibrahim L.            B-2   Mustafë Hoxha         C-2   Thimi Mitko          C-4
     Afrim Loxha        C-1/2    Edmond Hoxha           C-2   Idriz A.              C-1   Mustafa Kruja      B/C-2    Tirana               A-2
     Afrim Vitija       B-2/3    Esad Mekuli            B-1   Idriz Gjilani         A-4   Nak Berisha           B-3   UCK               A/B-2
     Afrim Zhitija        B-4    Fan S. Noli            C-1   Ilaz Kodra            A-4   Nazim Gafurri      C-1/2    Vasil Andoni         B-2
     Agim Ramadani B-2/3/4       Fazli Grajqevci      A/B-2   Ilir Konusheci     B-1/2    Nikolla Tesla         C-1   Vushtrria         A/B-1
     Ahmet Ka.            C-1    Fehmi Agani          A/B-2   Ilaz Agushi           B-1   Pashko Vasa           A-3   Xhafer Deva          A-1
     Ali Hadri            C-2    Ferat Dragaj           C-4   Ingrid Cara           C-1   Per. Dioklecian       A-2   Xheladin Kurbaliu    C-1
     Ali Kelmendi       C-3/4    Feriz Bl.            A-1/2   Isa Boletini          C-2   Perandori Justinian A-3/4   Xhelal Mitrovica C-2/3
     Ali P.Tepelena       B-3    Florim Y.            B-3/4   Jeronim De Rada       C-1   Pjetër Bogdani        A-1   Xhemë Gostivari C-2/3
     Andrea Gropa         B-2    Ganimete Tërbeshi            Jonuz Zejnullahu      A-3   Prishtina             C-1   Xhemajl Mustafa      A-4
     Antigona Fazliu    B/C-1                    B-4,C-3/4    Josip Rela            A-2   Qamil Bala            C-4   Xhemajl Prishtina B-1/2
     Anton Ceta         B-3/4    Garibaldi              A-3   Kacaniku              C-3   Qamil Hoxha           B-3   Ylfete Humolli       B-2
     Ardian Krasniqi   B/C-3     Gaspër Gjini           B-1   Kadri D.              B-1   Radovan Z.            A-3   Ymer Alushani        A-4
     Arkitekt Kadri Gega B-3     Gazmend Zajmi                Kajtaz Ramadani       A-2   Rasim Kicina          C-1   Ymer Berisha         C-2
     Armend Daci          C-4                    B-3,C-3/4    Korca                 C-1   Rexhep Luci        A/B-2    Zagrebi           A-1/2
     Asim Luzha           C-3    George Bush            A-3   Krasni.               B-2   Rexhep Mala        B-3/4    Zeki Shulem.         B-2
     Avni Rrustemi        C-1    Gjergj Fishta          B-1   Lasgush P.            A-2   Rifat Burxheviq       C-4   Zejnel Salihu     B/C-2
     Azem Bab.            C-1    Gjin Gazulli           C-4   Latif Berish.         B-3   Robert Doll         A-3/4   Zija Prishtina       B-1
     Azem Bejta           C-1    Gustav Majer           B-3   Lidhja e Lezhes       A-1   Rrustem Statovci B/C-3
     Bajram Curri         A-2    Hafez A. Korca         C-1   Lidhja e Prizrenit A-1/2    Rrustem Hyseni B/C-2
     Bajram Kelmendi      B-2    Hajdar Dushi         A/B-2   Lord Bajroni       C-3/4    Sali Butka            C-1

     Pristina In Your Pocket                                                                        

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