N°   108 FREE

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        26 NOVEMBER - 2 DECEMBER 2010
                                                                                                                                                                           L’Escapade Island Resort - Îlot Maître

Noumea’s streets are about to take on a
                                                                                NEW CALEDONIA
fairytale splendour as the town gears up
for the annual Christmas and New Year’s
                                                                                CELEBRATES EUROPE

At 2 p.m. on Friday 3 December, the special post-box
designed to magically transport children’s wish-lists
to Santa Claus will be officially set up on Place des
Cocotiers, at the foot of a giant 15m high Christmas
tree. Kids from surrounding primary and nursery
schools will be there to join in the show.
At 7 p.m. Noumea mayor Jean Leques will be present
in person at the Place des Cocotiers bandstand to
wave his magic wand as a signal for all the Christmas
lights to go on. Thousands of sparkling pink, green
and white fairy lights will spring into twinkling
life, bathing first Place des Cocotiers itself, then
Noumea’s other districts in a halo of glory.
Then it’s all aboard the Little Train for a spellbinding
free tour of the city illuminations. There will be plenty
of live music and fun to ensure a really festive atmos-
phere. And fairs, markets and workshops galore will
be held in Noumea all December to help you with the
Christmas shopping!
                                                                                 Heart at Voh                                                      Coral shelf reefs - Lifou
Noumea Townhall, tel. 23 26 50

                                                                                From 23 to 30 November,          fantastic “New Caledonia:                A European                          include a wonderful opportu-
                                                                                for the second year              Land of Coral” exhibition at        environmental village                    nity to see some outstanding
                                                                                running, it’s Europe             the Noumea Aquarium. The                                                     recent European art-house
                                                                                Week in New Caledonia.           exhibition will be inaugurated    A village clothed in a fairy-              movies. Seven films will be
                                                                                                                 at 6 p.m. on 23 November          tale decor and featuring                   shown over a 7 day period.
                                                                                T h i s y e a r, t h e N e w     and will open to the public       workshops exploring New                    Don’t miss “Tamara Drewe”
                                                                                Caledonian government            the following day. This           Caledonia’s biodiversity will              which will be shown with the
                                                                                has decided to give Europe       outstanding initiative, first     be set up in the IRD gardens.              original English soundtrack.
                                                                                Week a broader public            presented in Paris in 2008,       From 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. on                   “Tamara Drewe”, directed
                                                                                appeal by holding a series       then at Nice in 2009 and at       Thursday 25 and Friday                     by Stephen Frears, is a bril-
                                                                                of events and activities         the European Commission           26  and from 10 a.m.                       liant and cheeky comedy
                                                                                focussing on biodiversity        in Brussels in 2010, is now in    to 9 p.m. on Saturday                      pointing merciless fun at the
                                                                                and cultural themes.             New Caledonia.                    27 November, the village                   inhabitants of an English
                                                                                This will be a real commu-                                         will be alive with attractions             village. In the film, adapted
                                                                                nity occasion, with four main    The exhibition invites visitors   including tours of the green-              from a graphic novel by
                                                                                attractions and lots of things   to explore New Caledonia          houses, an organic market,                 Posy Simmonds loosely
                                                                                to see, learn and explore.       through its lagoons and coral     documentary screenings,                    based on Hardy’s Far From
                                                                                A number of debates and          reefs, which were added to        choir singing, dances and                  the Madding Crowd, Tamara
                                                                                conferences are sched-           the UNESCO World Heritage         concerts and stalls where                  Drewe, a celebrity journalist
                                                                                uled to take place in the        List on 7 July 2008. The          you can sample and buy                     with a new nose and long
CONTENTS                                                                        IRD auditorium (Institute for    6 fascinating sequences,          E u ro p e a n s p e c i a l i t i e s .   legs causes havoc when she
Art & Culture                             Shopping                              Research and Development,        “Land of Oceania”, “Land          Several associations repre-                returns to her native village.
Passion Wednesday:                        LA comes                              101  Promenade Roger             of Coral”, “Land of Nature”,      senting European countries
world cultures special   .....   P.   2   to Noumea   ..............   P.   2   Laroque, Anse Vata) but          “Land of People”, “Land           and cultures will be there to              Screenings: Sat. 27 November,
                                                                                these will all be in French.     of Paradox” and “Land             share their cultural heritage              2 p.m. / 5.45 p.m. / 8.15 p.m.,
                                                                                                                 of Sharing” will guide you        with you.                                  Cinécity, downtown,
                                                                                        Exhibition               on a voyage of discovery                                                     18 rue de la Somme, full rate:
                                                                                                                 through New Caledonia’s           European Cinema Week                       F1,000, reduced rate: F600.
                                                                                Not to worry, language is no     geographic, natural and                                                      Government of New Caledonia,
                                          Rhapsody of the sea                   barrier to enjoyment of the      cultural environments.            E u r o p e We e k w i l l a l s o         tel. 24 65 65
 Hot Picks and Life Style                                                                                                                               26 NOVEMBER - 2 DECEMBER 2010 - PAGE 2

   Art & Culture                                                                                         HIDEOUT                                   Where to stay
                                                                                                         “Fo pas rêver” is
   PASSION                                                                                               an adorable little
   WEDNESDAY: WORLD                                                                                      guesthouse tucked
                                                                                                         away in the Borendi
   CULTURES SPECIAL                                                                                      Tribe lands, about
   The Passion Wednesday event                                                                           30 km from Thio.
   at the Anse Vata farés from 5 p.m.
   to 7.30 p.m. on 1st December will                                                                     E a s t C o a s t tow n T hi o,
   be a celebration of global cultural                                                                   1 ½ h o u r s’ d r i ve f r o m
   diversity.                                                                                            Noumea, boasts a strikingly
                                                  And world cuisine will also be in the                  colourful setting: fiery red
   Once a month, the magnificent beach            spotlight. The evening’s bill of fare includes         soil contrasts with lush
   at Anse Vata becomes the venue for             authentic Basque paella, dishes from                   green mountains and the
   one of Noumea’s Passion Wednesday              Madagascar, scrumptious bougnas and                    vivid blue of the lagoon.
   early evening theme events. The special        other Oceanian specialities and a fragrant             The Borendi tribal village
   December event will be a glorious              selection of Indian recipes. Lovers of                 is the last stop before the
   patchwork of cultural, music, dance and        indulgent delicacies will be mercilessly               road suddenly disappears,              facilities is also provided.         slow-steamed stew)
   culinary traditions from all over the world.   seduced by the temptations of the “World               vanishing into the                     There is no mains electricity        accompanied by an
                                                  cakes” and fresh fruit juices stalls.                  wilderness of the Forgotten            at this remote but delightful        octopus and shellfish salad.
      A feast of dance and gourmet                You’ll also find plenty of great souvenir              Coast, a 60 km stretch of              holiday spot, so gas stoves          A feast fit for a king!
               specialities                       and gift ideas amongst the many arts and               utterly untouched coastline            are the order of the day.
                                                  crafts displays. A unique opportunity for a            o f f e r i n g a n u n c h a r te d   Guesthouse manager                   “Fo pas rêver’
   Kids and adults alike will be spellbound by    trip round the world... don’t miss it!                 and alluring paradise for              Marcelline is a great cook           guesthouse, advance
   the scintillating swirl of dances performed                                                           adventurous hikers.                    and, on request, she will            booking required, F6,000
   throughout the evening, from Asia to           “World Cultures” Mercredi                              Accommodation at “Fo                   be happy to tempt you with           per bungalow, meals
   Africa, from Bollywood to Capoeira... get      Passion at the Anse Vata farés,                        pas rêver” gue sthouse                 delicious specialities made          F1,000 and breakfast F300
   ready for an exhilarating kaleidoscope of      1st December, 5 p.m. to                                consists of four bungalows             with fresh local produce,            per person.
   colour and verve!                              7.30 p.m., tel. 28 02 07                               each sleeping 5 people. A              such as an authentic                 Tel. 44 52 21 / 76 31 33,
                                                                                                         thatched faré with cooking             bougna (traditional Kanak  

                                                                                                                                                  Wining & Dining

  Move it
Head for the Farino              flowering plants: bird-of-         Farino... a jewel set in             of hiking trails. And the
Garden Fair on Sunday            paradise flowers, strelitzias,     stunning countryside.                region’s riverside delights
28 November for a day            crown-of-thorns, bougain-                                               include a delightful ramble
of fresh air and fragrant        villea and also shrubs and        With its fair y tale hilltop          to the Farino waterfall and
flowers.                          trees to make your garden         location 350m above sea               a refreshing dip in one of
                                 beautiful.                        level, Farino is a magnet for         the pools below the fall. The
Farino, 1 ½ hours’ drive                                           keen nature lovers. Nearby            return walk takes just 1 ½
from Noumea, is perched          Visitors to the fair will be      lies the magnificent Parc             hours and leaves from the
high on a hillside and           invited to act as judges in       de s G r ande s Fougè re s            Refuge de Farino.
commands outstanding             the various competitions,         nature reser ve, a 4,535
views over the countryside.      with awards for the most          hectare haven sheltering
This year’s Garden Fair,         attractive stall, the loveliest   a r ich dive r sit y of New           Garden Festival,
scheduled to take place on       bouquet, the most dazzling        C a l e d o n i a’s p l a n t a n d   Sun. 28 November,
                                                                                                                                                TROPICAL OASIS
the townhall square from         flower arrangement and the        animal species. The park’s            from 7 a.m. to midday,                 You’ll find a little                  scented fig jam. Irresistible!
7 a.m. to midday, will feature   most gorgeous flowering           dense virgin rainforest is            Farino townhall,                       temple to the art of                 The restaurant also
a sumptuous profusion of         plants.                           criss-crossed by a wealth             tel. 44 31 04                          French cuisine nestling              comprises a tea lounge
                                                                                                                                                between Noumea’s                     where you can relax
                                                                   This cutting-edge city centre         the store for only F2,500              two most magnificent                  in comfor t and enjoy a

   Shopping                                                        store is packed with the
                                                                   very latest dresses, printed
                                                                   t-shirts, tops, bags, hats and
                                                                                                         and you’ll even get one free
                                                                                                         if you spend F10,000 on
                                                                                                         clothes! From the beginning
                                                                                                                                                beaches: Le Colonnaire
                                                                                                                                                is “Le Surf” hotel’s
                                                                                                                                                gourmet restaurant.
                                                                                                                                                                                     delicious af ternoon tea
                                                                                                                                                                                     served with freshly made
                                                                                                                                                                                     pastrie s concoc te d by
                                                                   accessories straight from             of December, “Made in Los                                                   specialist chef Alexandre
                                                                   the States, or to be precise,         Angeles” will be featuring             L o o k in g fo r a re l a x i n g   Kartim. Teas are served
                                                                   Los Angeles. In LA, where             special evenings with late             dining venue in an exotic            every afternoon from 2 p.m.
                                                                   every self-respecting teen            opening until 8 p.m., flash            setting? “Le Colonnaire”             to 5 p.m.
                                                                   princess dreams of movie              sales, DJ sessions and                 i s t h e p e r fe c t a n swe r.    Every Friday and Saturday
                                                                   stardom, fashion codes are            fashion parades... A treasure          Palm trees, charming                 evening and Sunday
                                                                   all important. So head for            trove of awesome American              Melanesian-style decor and           midday, the restaurant
                                                                   “Made in Los Angeles” and             fashion!                               traditional French cuisine           offers theme buffets with
                                                                   get all the hottest trends at                                                deliciously enhanced by              a variety of live musical
                                                                   really reasonable prices.                                                    fresh local produce... Le            entertainment.
                                                                   The store’s flagship product                                                 Colonnaire has it all.
                                                                   is the famous Power Balance                                                  And chef Olivier Polizzi has         Le Colonnaire restaurant,
                                                                   wristband that reacts                 Made in Los Angeles,                   created a selection of light         55 promenade Roger
                                                                   positively with the body’s            downtown, 21 rue                       and fragrantly luscious              Laroque, open Monday
                                                                   natural e ne rgy fields to            Sébastopol, Noumea.                    dishes to welcome in those           to Sunday 6 a.m. to
LA COMES TO NOUMEA                                                 enhance balance, strength             Open Monday to Saturday                lazy hazy days of summer.            10 a.m. for breakfast,
Clothes-conscious teens and their mums will find                    and well-being. Many top              9 a.m. to 6 p.m. “Made in              Tr y his mouth-watering              11.30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
an unbeatable range of trendy gear on sale at                      international athletes swear          Los Angeles” is also on                foie gras with dried figs            for lunch and 7 p.m.
fashion store “Made in Los Angeles” at the top of                  by it! You can buy your own           Facebook. Prizes to win                and A rmagnac, ser ve d              to 10 p.m. for dinner.
Place des Cocotiers.                                               Power Balance bracelet at             every day! Tel. 23 81 39               with brioches and vanilla-           Tel. 28 05 05
Upcoming events                   Next week 26 November to 2 december 2010*                                                                                     26 NOVEMBER - 2 DECEMBER 2010 - PAGE 3

Noumea                                together, sharing the
                                      same artists’ studio.
                                                                             creative artists: Valérie
                                                                             Morignat, Aline Mori and
                                                                                                                    and traditional dances to
                                                                                                                    get you in holiday mood.
                                                                                                                                                          8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m.
                                                                                                                                                          Information: 46 46 12           Later
                                      Art Centre, 6 bd                       Justine Pannoux-Shivay, a              Place de Tanguy,
FRI. 26 NOVEMBER                      Extérieur, Faubourg-                   celebrated photographer,               Moindou. 7 a.m. to                    TUES. 30
TO THURS.                             Blanchot. Admission                    a well-known artist and a              4 p.m. Admission free.                NOVEMBER TO
2 DECEMBER                            free. Monday to Friday                 talented newcomer.                     Tel. 78 34 53                         FRI. 3 DECEMBER
Special Aquarium                      7.15 a.m. to 3.50 p.m.                 ‘Le Méridien’ Hotel,                                                         Exhibition and sale
menus at “Quick”                      Tel. 25 07 50                          7 promenade Pierre                     SAT. 27 & SUN.                        “Arts et Artisanat”
Quick restaurant is                                                          Vernier, Val Plaisance.                28 NOVEMBER                           Show of works by artists
supporting its prestigious                                                           Market                                and craftspeople from
next door neighbour, the                                                                                            Market held by the                    La Foa. Woven articles,
Noumea Aquarium, by                                                                                                 women of Saint-Louis.                 plants, sculptures, woven
offering special aquarium                                                                                           Fruit and vegetables,                 jewellery, Mother Hubbard
menus. The kids’ magic                                                                                              plants, flowers, woven                frocks, hand-painted
box menu (for under 17s)                                                                                            items, sculptures, tea,               and decorated fabrics
includes an aquarium                                                                                                cakes, grilled skewers,
                                                                                                                                                          and t-shirts… and items
admission ticket for just                                                                                           mwata, roast chicken,
                                                                                                                                                          created by Association
F1,095, while adults                                                                                                bougnas (please order
                                                                                                                    ahead) and freshly caught             Solidarité Handicapés
opting for an XL or XXL                                                                                                                                   disabled community
menu can add just F800                                                                                              seafood and fish.
                                                                                                                    Route de Saint-Louis                  support association.
to the price to get an                                                                                                                                    La Foa Socio-Cultural
entrance ticket included                                                                                            (RP1), at the Réserve.
                                                                                                                    6 a.m. to 2 p.m.                      Centre, admission free,         SAT. 4 DECEMBER
in the meal. So stroll over                                                                                                                               opening evening 30              Cultural Day
to the aquarium and top                                                                                             Tel. 78 52 42
                                                                                                                                                          November at 6 p.m.,             Get involved in traditional
off your meal with a visual
                                                                                                                                                          open Monday to Friday           preparations to celebrate
feast of lagoon wonders.
                                                                                                                                                          8 a.m. to midday &              the wedding of the future
Quick Anse Vata,
59 promenade Roger                                                                                                                                        1 p.m. to 5 p.m.                Great Chief of the Gaica
                                      THURS. 2                                                                                                            Tel. 44 33 01                   district in Lifou. The
Laroque, Noumea.                      DECEMBER
Tel. 28 61 50                                                                TILL 13 FEBRUARY                                                                                             program includes weaving
                                      Mont-Dore Downtown                                                                                                  TILL 12 DECEMBER                with coconut palm
Market                                Thursday                               2011                                                                         Exhibition                      and pandanus leaves,
Port Moselle Market for               Mont-Dore is essentially               Exhibition                                                                   Painter Brigitte Ploton
                                      a farming community                    In his dramatic                                                                                              the dance of the “devil
fresh fruit, vegetables,                                                                                                                                  presents an exhibition of       of the unseen world”,
arts & crafts... Note:                and agricultural produce               photographs, Greg Semu                                                       colourful works inspired
                                      will take pride of place at            explores the relations and                                                                                   performances by choirs
renovation work on the                                                                                                                                    by Aboriginal art.              from the Gaica district,
fish market building                  this week’s Downtown                   influences of Western                                                        Mont-Dore Cultural
                                      Thursday dedicated to                  mores and culture on                                                                                         a chance to sample a
was completed on 16                                                                                                                                       Centre exhibition hall.
                                      Mont-Dore.                             indigenous peoples in                                                                                        coconut-smoked fish
November and the fish                                                                                                                                     Admission free. Tuesday
                                      Local growers will there               the Pacific: early contacts                                                                                  speciality... After nightfall,
section moved back to                                                                                                                                     to Friday, 1 p.m.
                                      to tempt visitors with                 between Europeans                                                                                            the Kâmi Yo Space will be
home base on                                                                                                                                              to 5 p.m. Tel. 41 90 90
                                      displays of fine local                 and native peoples, the                                                                                      the venue for a concert
19 November.
                                      produce: fruit, vegetables,            influence of Christianity,                                                                                   by Te Vaka, an ensemble
Every morning 5 a.m.
to 11.30 a.m.                         plants... and local                    the loss of traditional
                                                                                                                    Week-end at Canala
                                                                                                                                                          North                           of ten musicians and
                                                                                                                                                                                          dancers from all over
                                      craftsmen and women will               beliefs
                                      be showing off their skills            Tjibaou Cultural Centre,               Set off for a thrilling
                                                                                                                    weekend of outdoor
                                                                                                                                                          Province                        Oceania.
                                      and creativity.                        Kavitara Space, Rue des                                                                                      Tjibaou Cultural Centre,
                                      The evening’s fun                      Accords de Matignon,                   activities deep in the wild           FRI. 26, SAT.27,                Rue des Accords de
                                      program includes                       Tina. 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.                 unspoilt countryside:                 SUN. 28 NOVEMBER                Matignon, Tina. 9 a.m.
                                      dances, music, weaving                 Admission F500, free for               kayaking, introduction                6th Bat Nights Festival         to 5 p.m. Concert 7 p.m.
                                      workshops and                          under 18s & students.                  to canyoning and                      The Gohapin Tribe (28 km        to 10 p.m. Cultural Day,
                                      demonstrations by local                Tel. 41 45 45                          nature trails. Homestay               from Poya) joins with the       F500, free for under
                                      sports clubs and plenty                                                       accommodation at the                  WWF to offer visitors a
                                                                                                                    Kako Tribe with a big                                                 18s & students, concert
                                      of refreshments stalls.                TILL 31 MARCH 2011                                                           really fantastic program.       tickets F3,000.
                                      5 p.m. to 8 p.m.                       Exhibition                             welcome from Miguel and               Watch the bats as they
                                                                             Treasures of the media                 Georgina, your hosts for                                              Tel. 41 45 45 / 85 50 50
                                      Place des Cocotiers.                                                                                                take off to forage for food,
                                      Tel. 28 02 07                          library... an exhibition               the weekend.                                                          SAT. 4 TO
                                                                                                                                                          help prepare (and eat!)
                                                                             of photographs taken                   Terraventure. F14,500
                                      THURS. 2, FRI. 3,                      Adrien Richard, crew                   per person meals                      an authentic bougna             FRI. 24 DECEMBER
                                                                                                                    and o/n under canvas,                 (traditional Kanak dish)        Christmas Market
                                      SAT. 4, SUN. 5                         member on the ship
                                                                                                                    F16,600 meals and o/n                 and enjoy a lively market       in Noumea
                                      DECEMBER                               “Kersaint” which led a law
                                                                                                                    guesthouse.                           of local produce.               The perfect Christmas
                                      Concerts                               enforcement operation
                                                                             in New Caledonia, the Fiji             Tel. 77 88 19                         Information and                 shopping venue. A host
                                      Esprit Live returns for a                                                                                           bookings: 27 50 25 /            of local craftspeople and
                                      new season of concerts.                Islands, Wallis and the
TILL 30 NOVEMBER                                                             New Hebrides between                   SUN. 28 NOVEMBER                      83 36 70                        retailers will be offering
                                      The December program                                                          3rd Poe’s Cup                                                         culinary specialities and
Exhibition                            will feature the Josh Owen             1905 and 1913.
Innovative artist Aline
Mori presents a show of
                                      Band, who will be raising
                                      the temperature with
                                                                             Tjibaou Cultural Centre,
                                                                             Rue des Accords de
                                                                                                                    Water sports event
                                                                                                                    organised by Poé Sailing              Loyalty                         ideas to decorate your
                                                                                                                                                                                          home, not to mention
her acrylic digital prints
inspired by Kanak culture.
                                      their heady mix of funk,               Matignon, Tina. 9 a.m. to
                                                                             5 p.m. Admission F500,
                                                                                                                    Club at one of New
                                                                                                                    Caledonia’s loveliest
                                                                                                                                                          Islands                         great gift ideas to delight
                                                                                                                                                                                          children and adults alike.
                                      reggae and groove. The                                                        lagoon venues. The
Galerie Photexpo,                                                            free for under 18s &                                                                                         Place des Cocotiers.
Moana Center, Quartier
                                      band’s influences include                                                     program includes kayak                Ouvea                           Mon. to Fri. (except
                                      the likes of Led Zeppelin,             students. Tel. 41 45 45
Latin, Noumea. Monday                                                                                               races, Optimist sailing               WED. 1ST DECEMBER               Thurs.) 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.,
                                      Stevie Wonder, Red Hot                                                        dinghy regattas and
to Friday 8.30 a.m.                   and Lenny Kravitz.                     TILL APRIL 2011                                                              Market                          Weds. 15 to Weds.
to midday, 1.30 p.m.                                                         ‘Demandez le journal’                  courses for beginners                 Hnyimëhë market by the          22 December, 9 a.m.
                                      2 December 9 p.m. La                   Exhibition                             in sailing dinghies and
to 5.30 p.m., Saturday                Bodega (Val Plaisance),                                                                                             sea (between Banoutr            to 4.30 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.
8.30 a.m. to midday.                                                         An exhibition exploring the            catamarans, windsurfing               and Wadrilla),
                                      3 December 9 p.m. Le                                                                                                                                to 4.30 p.m. except
Tel. 44 19 19 / 28 81 78                                                     history of newsgathering               and stand up paddle                   7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
                                      Barberousse (Baie des                                                         boarding. Kayak race                                                  Christmas Eve 9 a.m.
                                                                             (newspapers, radio                                                                                           to 12.30 p.m.
TILL 1ST DECEMBER                     Citrons), 4 December                                                          F1,000, courses and
                                      8.30 p.m. Le Surf (Anse
                                                                             and television) in New                                                       Maré                            Tel. 28 02 07
Exhibition                                                                   Caledonia from 1858                    regatta F500.
Metal sculptor Aka                    Vata), 5 December
                                                                             to 2010.                               Site open from 8.30 a.m.,             FRI. 26 NOVEMBER,
                                      9 p.m. Le Kristal                                                                                                   TUES. 30                        MON. 6 TO SAT.
presents her new                                                             Noumea City Museum,                    take the first unsealed
exhibition entitled “Post             (Baie des Citrons).                                                           road after Poé campsite               NOVEMBER                        11 DECEMBER
                                                                             temporary exhibition                                                                                         Christmas Market
Ethnic”, which draws                  Information: 41 32 85                                                         (Bourail). Beginners                  Market
                                                                             room. Admission F200,                                                                                        in Mont-Dore
its inspiration from                  THURS. 2 TO SUN. 5                     over 60s F100 and                      courses until 4 p.m.                  In Tadine, opposite the
ancient and primitive                                                                                               Tel. 92 33 47                                                         Lots of arts and crafts
                                                                             12-18s F50. Monday                                                           Town Hall Shelter,
artistic traditions. Aka
                                      DECEMBER                                                                                                                                            stalls brimming with great
                                      2nd Noumea Super Fair                  to Saturday 9 a.m.                     Market                                7 a.m. to 4 p.m.
uses a subtle blend of                                                                                                                                                                    gift ideas and stalls selling
                                      This bumper fair is                    to midday & 1 p.m.                     Farmers market from
living metals to create                                                      to 5 p.m. Tel. 26 28 05                                                      SAT. 27 TO                      farm-fresh local produce
                                      the answer to all your                                                        8.30 a.m. to midday in                                                perfect for your festive
sculptures reinventing                Christmas gift worries!                                                       Sarraméa; bumper choice               28 NOVEMBER
                                                                                                                                                          Makue Fair (taro)               menus.
a universe of ritual and
ceremonial mystery.
                                      Browse the stalls and
                                      great ideas will take
                                                                             South                                  of fresh produce and
                                                                                                                    other local specialities.             The Rawa Tribe (in the          Every evening from
Galerie Dancel, 10 rue
d’Ypres, Noumea. Open
                                      you by storm: presents,
                                      decorations, gourmet
                                                                             Province                               Place du syndicat
                                                                                                                    d’initiative. Tel. 44 35 46
                                                                                                                                                          north of the island) invites
                                                                                                                                                          you to a cultural and
                                                                                                                                                                                          5.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.
                                                                                                                                                                                          Place des Accords.
non-stop from Monday                                                                                                                                      discovery weekend.              Tel. 43 70 10
                                      treats galore...                       SAT. 27 NOVEMBER
to Saturday 9 a.m.                    Maison des artisans,                                                          TILL 30 NOVEMBER                      The program features
to 6 p.m. Admission                                                          Market                                                                                                       SUN. 19 DECEMBER
                                      downtown, 12 avenue                    Market in Bourail on the               Exhibition                            a bumper market
free.,                                                                                                                                                                         Christmas Market
                                      James Cook. Admission                  main square from 8 a.m.                The Bourail Library                   showcasing fresh local
Tel. 27 50 11                                                                                                                                                                             in Moindou
                                      free. Thursday to                      to midday.                             presents “Les Tortues                 produce and a variety
                                                                                                                    Marines, à la découverte                                              Moindou Christmas
                                      Saturday 9 a.m. to                     Bourail, tel. 46 46 12                                                       of attractions including
THURS.                                                                                                              d’espèces protégées”,                                                 Market, held in
                                      6.30 p.m. Sunday 9 a.m.                                                                                             concerts of traditional
2 DECEMBER                                                                   Yellowtail Emperor                     a superb exhibition                                                   association with the towns
                                      to 5 p.m. Tel. 27 56 85                                                                                             local music.
TO 10 FEBRUARY                                                               Fish and Crab Fair                     exploring the lagoon’s                                                of Farino and Sarraméa,
                                                                                                                                                          9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Exhibition                            TILL 14 DECEMBER                       Spend a day in the                     protected species, with                                               will open at around 9 to
                                                                                                                                                          Tel. 45 49 01
Two artists, sculptor in              1st New Caledonia                      country and stock up on                the focus on marine                                                   9.30 a.m. The very best
wood Olivier Séranne                  Photo Festival                         fresh farm produce and                 turtles. Tues. 9 a.m.                 Lifou                           regional produce, plants,
and painter Mathieu                   The lobby and bar of Le                freshly caught fish and                to midday and 1 p.m.                                                  fruit and vegetables, arts
Veron, present their                  Méridien hotel will be                 seafood! Moindou                       to 4 p.m., Weds. 9 a.m.               FRI. 26 NOVEMBER,               and crafts and a few
joint exhibition “Co-                 the venue for a major                  (124 km north of Noumea)               to midday and 1 p.m.                  WED. 1ST                        Christmas surprises.
incidences”, comprising               photography exhibition                 is holding a special food              to 5 p.m. Thurs. 1 p.m.               DECEMBER                        Place du Marché, as you
works created during                  inviting visitors to explore           and craft fair and market              to 4 p.m., Fri. 1 p.m.                Market                          enter Moindou from the
a year spent working                  the visions of three                   with live entertainment                to 4.30 p.m. and Sat.                 In Wé, 6 a.m. to 11 a.m.        south. Tel. 44 33 35

*Please note that the feature "This Week" is correct at the time of going to press, but that the editor clearly cannot accept any responsibility for any subsequent changes of program.
 Life Style                                                                                                                                                   26 NOVEMBER - 2 DECEMBER 2010 - PAGE 4
                                                                                                Caledonian                                               Inside story
                                                                                                taste                                                    The Isle of Pines was like a tropical
                                                                                                                                                         paradise and absolutely perfect
                                                                                                                                                         for camping. The pirogue wa s
                                                                                                                                                         interesting. It was like a primitive
                                                                                                                                                         “New Caledonian gondola” with a
                                                                                                                                                         confident local captain, who didn’t sing but had sailed
                                                                                                                                                         many seas, many times. The 45 minutes spent riding
                                                                                                                                                         the pirogue was smooth sailing. Then it was a walk
                                                                                                                                                         through the lush tropical forest, crossing a stream
                                                                                                                                                         and following it upriver to the natural swimming pool,
                                                                                                                                                         where snorkelling was the key thing. Even though

  Fresh air                                                                                                                                              I just paddled in the water, I could see dozens of
                                                                                                                                                         white and grey fish swimming about, and I’m told the
                                                                                                                                                         deeper you went the more colourful the fish became.
                                                                                                                                                         It was awesome. I have a weakness for bakeries so the
EXPLORING THE JEWELS OF LUENGONI                                                                 EXOTIC CHICKEN                                          baguettes here were on my list of top attractions. Fresh
                                                                                                  Ingredients:                                           baguettes in the morning with jam or filled with cheese,
Join local guide Noël Pia on a scenic ramble to one of Lifou’s
                                                                                                  1 chicken, 2 onions, 3 cooking bananas (green),        avocado, salad or anything else for lunch; versatile and
most sensational beauty spots.                                                                                                                           delicious! The highlight of my trip was definitely seeing
                                                                                                  1 glass of dry white wine, 2 tomatoes,
                                                                                                  juice of 1 lemon, chopped parsley, thyme,              my daughter, who is here working for a year. Seeing
Lifou, the largest of the Loyalty       grove of coconut palms. Some of                                                                                  how she is enjoying the New Caledonian lifestyle, how
                                                                                                  1/2 tsp crushed garlic, 2 tbsp oil, salt and mixed
Islands, boasts a fascinating           the world’s leading speleologists                                                                                her confidence has grown and that she has a great
                                                                                                  pepper berries
variety of landscapes and some          have trodden this path. Nicolas                                                                                  group of friends to share some of her life’s journey and
of New Caledonia’s most breath-         Hulot even filmed a feature here                          Preparation:                                           thousands of photos with, has been fantastic.
                                                                                                  Joint the chicken and divide into
takingly beautiful beaches.             for top French T V adventure                              8 pieces. Place chicken in a large pan                 Elena Azzam, visitor from Australia
Luengoni beach, on the island’s         documentar y series Ushuaïa.                              and brown on all sides in very hot oil;
east coast, is almost unbelievably      The trail leads you through a                             add chopped onions, parsley, thyme,
lovely, a paradise of spotless,
powdery fine white sand lapped by
the clearest of crystalline waters.
                                        hu s h e d a n d s e c re t wo r l d of
                                        natural amphitheatres carpeted
                                        i n d e n s e ve g e t a t i o n b e f o r e
                                                                                                  salt and pepper to taste. Continue
                                                                                                  to sauté for 10 mins then add diced
                                                                                                  tomatoes, garlic and white wine. Cover
                                                                                                                                                         Cultural Passport
But Lifou is also remarkable for        plunging into an underground                              the pan and cook for 40 mins over a
                                                                                                  gentle heat. Peel green bananas, slice
                                                                                                                                                         THE CUSTOMARY WELCOME
its wealth of underground caverns       cavern for a torchlight expedition                        into thick rounds and blanch in boiling                The traditional welcome or ‘coutume’ is a
and waterholes, carved out over         to a stunningly dramatic pool of                                                                                 cornerstone of Kanak culture. In its broadest sense
                                                                                                  water to which you have added salt
the centuries as the level of the sea   emerald green water. Don’t forget                                                                                the term ‘coutume’ refers to all the social rules that
                                                                                                  and lemon juice. Remove from heat                      govern everyday life but in this particular instance
rose and fell.                          to take along your bathers!                               and leave for 5 minutes. Drain bananas                 it refers to the traditional welcome ceremony,
Facing a little bay where a rocky                                                                 and add to chicken mixture. Cook for                   which is a mark of respect (at the beginning
outcrop floats above the lagoon         Advance booking necessary:                                a further 10 minutes. Serve very hot.                  of a meeting, on arrival on tribal land, etc).
waters, a track winds deep into a       tel. 45 03 09 / 93 26 49                                                                                         A simple gift is offered. Originally this took the
                                                                                                                                                         form of ‘Kanak’ money, which was made from
                                                                                                                                                         shells, flying fox fur, etc. Today a gift of tobacco

Just for a day                                                                                                                                           and money (around F1,000) is laid upon a piece
                                                                                                                                                         of material (known as ‘le manou’). The person who
                                                                                                                                                         is giving the gift explains his reasons (to give thanks,
                                                                                                                                                         make a request for authorisation to enter tribal lands,
                MARITIME TERMINAL                                                                                                                        etc). The person who is receiving the gift responds
                MARKET                                                                                                                                   and touches the gift as a sign of acceptance.
                 A colourful arts and crafts market is held                                                                                              TRAVEL KIT
                 right on the spot inside the Maritime
                                                                                                                                                         MONEY                       1 AUD      1 NZD       1 USD
Terminal every time a cruise ship docks. Wander round the                                                                                                                              =          =           =
                                                                                                                                                         (exchange rates             86.84      67.76       89.29
stalls spread out on both levels of the building and choose
                                                                                                                                                         on 25 November 2010)         XPF        XPF         XPF
your own special souvenirs of New Caledonia. Postcards,
sarongs, local costumes, T-shirts, fashion jewellery, tradi-                                                                                             Automatic teller machines (ATMs) are available
tional sculptures... your only problem will be making up                                                                                                 throughout the territory. Have your pin code handy.
your mind! So set off on a tour of the displays and meet the                                                                                             Banks are generally open 8 a.m. to 3.30 p.m.,
                                                                                                                                                         Monday to Friday.
friendly stallholders who are all delighted to show off their
wares and chat to visitors.                                                                                                                              TAKE A BUS
                                                                                                                                                         Karuia buses (red buses): the Blue Line goes to the
                                                                                                                                                         Tjibaou Cultural Centre from the Place des Cocotiers
                USEFUL TIPS:                                                “CHEZ NATHALIE”                                                              in the centre of town. The Green Line follows
                                                                                                                                                         the beach roads. Fares: adults, F210 one way.
                                                                            If you’re on the lookout for some cool and colourful kids’                   Tel. 26 54 54 or
SHOPS & STORES: OPENING HOURS                                               clothes just right for New Caledonia’s summer heat, then                     TAKE A TAXI
Shops are generally open from 9.30 a.m. to midday and                       head for Nathalie’s stall!                                                   Taxis, Central rank - Place des Cocotiers, fare from
2 p.m. to 5.30 p.m. Only food stores stay open non-stop                                                                                                  city centre to beaches, F1,000. Tel. 28 35 12
from 7.30 a.m. to around 7 p.m.                                             You’ll adore her wide range of light and comfy fashions:                     TAXI BOATS (LEAVING FROM ANSE VATA)
EXCHANGE                                                                    tunics, harem pants, jumpsuits, frocks… in bright and                        Every day 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Ile aux Canards
Very few of Noumea's shops, stores and tourism leisure                      vivid colours, for children aged 6 months to 10 years.                       return fare F1,000, Ilot Maître return fare F2,400.
activities accept foreign currency. You'll find a "money                    And Nathalie also has a great range for mums: dresses,                       Tel. 26 90 00.
changer" on the ground floor of the Maritime Terminal next                  tunics, t-shirts and hair accessories guaranteed to suit                     NATURE & CULTURE PASS
to the Tourism Office branch.                                               your holiday mood. And her selection of fancy key rings                      Get a 40% reduction on entry fees to
POST OFFICE (O.P.T.) - there is a branch at the maritime                    and wooden photo frames will make perfect gifts for family                   5 major tourist attractions (the Maritime
                                                                                                                                                         History Museum is closed for renovation work until
terminal. You can purchase postcards, stamps and phone                      and friends.                                                                 July 2011. Residents can wait until the museum
cards. The post office accepts payment in US, NZ and                                                                                                     re-opens to visit and non-residents can revisit one
Australian dollars.                                                         Nathalie, 1st floor of the Maritime Terminal,                                of the other sites) ‘Le Pass’ costs just F1,700 and
The O.P.T outlet is located next to the Tourism Office desk.                facing the city-side stairs, on the left, tel. 91 73 13                      includes entry to the Tjibaou Cultural Centre, the
                                                                                                                                                         Museum of New Caledonia, the Noumea Municipal
                                                                                                                                                         Museum, the Noumea Aquarium and the Botanical
                                          Tel. (687) 23 23 80                                       Useful numbers                                       and Wildlife Park. On sale at all of the above (except
                                                                                                                                                         the Museum of New Caledonia) and at tourism
                                          EDITORIAL COMMITTEE:
                                                                                                     NC country code: +687                               outlets displaying a ‘Le Pass’ sign.
                                          Tourism office
                                                                                                                                                         RÉSEAU ÂMICAL
                                          PHOTOS: Tourism office,                         NC TOURIST OFFICE:                         AIR CALEDONIE
                                          NC Tourism Point Sud,
                                                                                                                                                         The ‘Réseau Âmical’ (Friendly Network) is the
                                                                                          05 75 80                               (domestic flights):
                                          NC Tourism Province Nord,                                                                                      perfect way to experience the real spirit of
                                          Destination Îles Loyauté,                       (free call) 28 75 80                            25 21 77       New Caledonia. It includes members from
                                          Sébastien Mérion, Fabrice Laude,                AUSTRALIAN                             AIRCALIN: 26 55 00      all the country’s ethnic communities,
                                          Greg Semu, Ville du Mont-Dore.
                                                                                          CONSULATE - GENERAL:                    QANTAS: 28 65 46       committed to the principles of responsible
                                          TRANSLATIONS: Elaine Sutton
                                          PRINTED BY IRN Nouméa
                                                                                          27 24 14                                                       tourism, quality and authenticity.
                                                                                                                        AIR NEW ZEALAND: 28 66 77 or call 28 75 80.
                                          Despite the attention given to the accuracy     NEW ZEALAND
                                          of the information printed in The New                                                           POLICE: 17
                                                                                          CONSULATE - GENERAL:
                                          Caledonia Weekly, we cannot be held
                                          responsible for last minute changes             27 25 43                                 FIRE BRIGADE: 18
                                          in program or prices.                                                                    EMERGENCIES /
                                                                                          AGENCE KENUA:                                                CONTACT US :
                                                                                          P&O representatives,            SOS MEDICAL SERVICE: 15      We would like to hear any comments
                                               We protect                                 28 45 45 / 26 00 55           DIRECTORY ENQUIRIES: 1012      regarding THE NEW CALEDONIA WEEKLY,
                                               our Island.                                                                                             please write to us at:

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