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BY KATE WASHINGTON

VIEWS: 13 PAGES: 6

									favorites
   From custard-soaked French toast to cheesy English omelets and fluffy
 buttermilk pancakes, we’ve got the top 10 tastiest, toastiest wake-up calls in
the city. Plus, sweet spots for mornings on the go and places that let you have
          scrambled eggs and home fries for dinner. Getting hungry?
Then turn the page and find out who has just joined our Best Breakfast Club

                     By Kate Washington
               PhotograPhs by Marc thoMas Kallweit
                         and JereMy syKes




                                                                                             The buttermilk
                                                                                       pancakes at Nopalitos


                                                               FEBRUARY MARCH   | 09                    69
     ipping bottomless refills of dark-roast coffee,                            Ta z z i n a                    BisTro
     choosing between lavish omelets and puffy
     waffles, lingering over the Sunday paper for                           So often WIth Brunch, dilemmas arise:
     hours (and then heading back to bed for the                            one person likes lunchy brunch, another breakfasty
                                                                            brunch; or deciding between sweet and savory is too
     rest of the day): If there’s a more attainable,                        hard. chef-owner rebecca reichardt’s delightful,
     less expensive or more delicious luxury                                brick-walled tazzina Bistro, located inside an
     out there than going out to breakfast, we                              historic building in downtown Woodland, presents
                                                                            a drive-worthy, have-it-all solution with a very well-
     don’t know what it is. As winter winds into                            priced two- or three-course prix-fixe brunch menu
     spring and a chill remains in the air, now is                          that has everything from bananas foster french toast
     the perfect time to fuel yourself for the day                          to a club sandwich, from vanilla yogurt with apple,
                                                                            fig and pear compote to a broiled half grapefruit,
     on piquant $9 huevos rancheros, homey                                  from quiche Lorraine to omelets. the most popular
     $10 apple pancakes or delectably fresh and                             dish on the seasonally changing menu is always the
     varied dim sum for as little as $2.45. Lucky                           eggs Benedict, but the corned beef hash—spiked
                                                                            with fennel—is also a perennial hit. If you opt for
     for us, Sacramento is a big breakfast town,                            the third course, desserts like the affogato (espresso
     rich in everything from old-fashioned coffee                           over vanilla ice cream) have a start-the-day-right
     shops packed with neighborhood regulars to                             flair, as do the eye-opening brunch cocktails. the
                                                                            spicy Bloody Mary is a winner, but people also
     brand-new fancy hotel restaurants. Lucky for                           come especially for the ramos gin fizz, made with a
     you, for weeks we sacrificed our sleep (not to                         homemade sweet and sour mix. It’s no wonder that
     mention our waistline) to bring you the 10                             the drinks (including the coffee) stand out: tazzina
                                                                            means “little cup” in Italian, after all.
     best a.m. eateries in the city. Whether you’re
     in the mood for healthy house-made granola                                  Don’T Miss: The corned beef hash, the
                                                                                  Bloody Mary or the lavish bananas Foster
     or a hearty, buttery Belgian waffle, we’ve got                               French toast, depending on your mood
                                                                                 BreakfasT Basics: $13 for 2 courses; $16
     the story for morning glory.                                                 for 3. 10–3 Sat., 10–2 Sun.
                                                                            	    6
                                                                                 	 14	Main	St.,	Woodland.	530-661-1700.	tazzinabistro.com	




     nopaliTos
     noPALItoS SouthWeStern cAfé is open only on
     weekdays, but David and rose hanke’s tex-Mex breakfasts are                                                                             33rd Street Bistro’s flatbread
     worth getting up extra early for. originally, the couple closed                                                                         pizza with prosciutto and egg
     their eatery on weekends because that’s when David coached
     their son, Aaron, in baseball (he went on to play in the minor
     leagues; look for his picture above the register). one of their
     most loyal customers is Sac State prof ernie olson, a former
     caricaturist who has done several cartoons that reference
                                                                                                                                                      33rD                      sTreeT                             BisTro
     nopalitos, which are framed above the salsa bar. those salsas                                                                                        there’S A reASon the term “slinging hash” became synonymous with serving breakfast: hash is really good
     are made in-house, as is almost everything here, from the                                                                                            when it’s done right, as it is at this east Sac breakfast standby, which has slung hash to a loyal neighborhood following
     chorizo to the pork chile verde with jalapeños and poblano                                                                                           for 12 of its 13 years. the brook trout hash is a triumph: chef Pamela cantu makes it with fresh fish that’s wood-
     chiles. that stew is the base for the vibrant chile verde breakfast                                                                                  roasted in-house with vermouth butter and then flaked in with salty, crispy fried potatoes and the fresh green crunch
     topped with crisp-edged fried eggs and served with piping-hot                                                                                        of zucchini, all topped with eggs any style and a lightly lemony hollandaise that sets off the mild smokiness of the fish.
     tortillas, one of the café’s most popular dishes. Want something
                                                                                                                                                          It’s among the most popular items on the menu, along with their northwest Scramble, with salmon, dill and cheddar.
     milder? try the pillowy pancakes (pictured on previous page) or
     the cheese-and-corn scrambled eggs, with corn that tastes fresh
                                                                                                                                                          As of December, however, the menu features some brand-new items, including huevos rancheros with house-made
     even in winter. other faves: the chorizo scramble and the Little                                                                                     ranchero sauce, a flatbread pizza with prosciutto, marinara and sunny-side-up eggs, and eggs florentine and Benedict.
     cactus Special frittata with tortilla chips, cactus and chile sauce.                                                                                 You’ll also find yummy sweet offerings like hazelnut waffles, berry pancakes, hot buttered rum and pomegranate
     Late for work? Grab a breakfast burrito or muffin to go.                                                                                             mimosas. Moreover, 33rd St. Bistro has a citywide rep for its pepper bacon: at a recent brunch, one woman was
         Don’T Miss: The flavorful pork chile verde breakfast
                                                                                                                                                          overheard raving about it as “the best in Sac.” Granted, we haven’t sampled all the bacon in town, but judging from
         BreakfasT Basics: Entrées $3.95–$8.50.                                                                                                           our experience, we’re willing to believe her.
          6:30-10:45 a.m. M-F                                                                                                                              Don’T Miss: The trout hash
     	   5530	H	St.,	Sacramento.	452-8226.                                      Tazzina Bistro’s                                                           BreakfasT Basics: Entrées $5.95–$12.95. 8-10:30 a.m. M-F, 8-2 Sat.-Sun.
                                                                                quiche Lorraine
                                                                                                                                                      	    3301	Folsom	Blvd.,	Sacramento.	455-2233.	33rdstreetbistro.com


70                    FEBRUARY MARCH         | 09
                                                                      afTerno                                                                     n
                      new                                             DeliGhTs
                      canTon                                          the early bird may get the worm, but in Sacramento, the night owl can still
                                                                      get the warm omelet—and the decadent french toast and the sweet waffle.
                                                                      herewith are more than 20 local restaurants where it’s easy to grab two eggs
                                                                      over hard after 2 p.m., organized by the generous hour they stop serving
                      the LIne forMS Before the                       brunch on the weekend (on both Saturdays and Sundays unless otherwise
                      DoorS oPen on WeekenDS;                         noted). Armed with this list, you can rise (late) and still shine. —Jon Schuller
                      once 10 a.m. rolls around, it’s a mad
                      dash up the steep stairs to grab a table                                                   The oriGinal pancake house
                                                                                                                 (10000 Fairway Dr., Roseville;
                      for the freshest dim sum in town. (not          cornersTone resTauranT (2330               788-3040). Until 2:30 p.m. weekdays.
                                                                      J St.*; 441-0948). Most popular Dish:      Most popular Dish: Dutch Baby.
                      an early riser? Make a reservation, or go       the Potato Platter.                        sweeTpea’s resTauranT (13498
                      on a weekday; on weekends, although             la provence resTauranT anD                 Luther Rd., Auburn; 530-823-1818).
                                                                      Terrace (110 Diamond Creek Pl.,            Daily. Most popular Dish: oatmeal
                      the restaurant serves up to 1,000 guests,       Roseville; 789-2002). Sundays only.        raisin pancakes.
                      the huge room is jammed by 10:30.)              Most popular Dish: Traditionnel            The villaGe BisTro (7984
                                                                      Benedictines.                              California Ave., Fair Oaks; 966-6384).
                      nobody’s there for the décor or the             ink eaTs anD Drinks (2730 N                Daily (closed Monday). Most popular
                                                                      St.; 456-2800). Most popular Dish:         Dish: eggs Benedict.
                      flat-screen tVs (though the downstairs
                                                                      Breakfast Sliders (think White Castle      zócalo (1801 Capitol Ave.;
                      fish tanks are useful for amusing antsy         burgers but with egg).                     441-0303). Most popular Dish:
                                                                      rio ciTy café (1110 Front St.;             breakfast burrito filled with scrambled
                      kids); it’s all about the dim sum, baby.                                                   eggs, salsa pinto beans, Jack cheese,
                                                                      442-8226). Most popular Dish: huevos
                                                                                                                 potatoes, choice of meat and lime-
                      the carts come fast and furious, and            rancheros.
                                                                                                                 infused sour cream.
                      on weekends the variety is huge, with           sweeTwaTer resTauranT & Bar
                                                                      (5641 J St.; 731-8857). Sundays only.
                      nearly 60 different items, all freshly          Most popular Dish: Sonoma Scramble
                                                                      with proscuitto, goat cheese and
                      made in-house. Shrimp har gow? Lacy             spinach.                                   faT ciTy Bar & café (1001 Front St.;
                      taro-coated balls filled with creamy-                                                      446-6768). Most popular Dish: Chef
                                                                                                                 Lina’s Favorite Combo (half-order of
                      textured pork? Beefy, savory meatballs?                                                    house-made corned-beef hash, one
                                                                                                                 egg and half a Belgian waffle with
                      Siu mai? chive dumplings? fluffy, sweet         awful annie’s (Auburn: 160                 cinnamon butter).
                                                                      Sacramento St.; 530-888-9857.
                      barbecue pork buns? Deep-fried shrimp           Lincoln: 490 G St.; 645-9766). Daily.      hoppy BrewinG coMpany (6300
                                                                      Most popular Dish at auburn: The           Folsom Blvd.; 451-4677). Most pop-
                      balls surrounded with crisp ribbons of          Mess (home fries with veggies, cheese      ular Dish: country-fried steak & eggs.
                      wrapper? refreshingly lean chinese              and sour cream). Most popular Dish
                                                                      at lincoln: Country Benedict.
                      greens with oyster sauce? Sesame balls
                                                                      capiTol GaraGe (1500 K St.;
                      filled with luscious sweet bean paste?          444-3633). Most popular Dish:              aMore café & Bakery (2220 Gold
                                                                      Saturday: Monte Christo; Sunday:           Springs Ct., Gold River; 463-0011).
                      Yes, yes, yes: it’s all delicious (especially   Louisiana Benedict with prawns.            Saturdays only (until 5 p.m. weekdays;
                                                                                                                 closed Sundays). Most popular Dish:
                      anything with shrimp; they’re plump,            Danielle’s creperie (3535B
                                                                                                                 spinach and cheese omelet.
                                                                      Fair Oaks Blvd.; 972-1911. 901 K St.;
                      meaty and sweet). Don’t order too fast,         498-1018). Sundays and Mondays             Balcony BisTro (801 1/2 Sutter
                                                                      (until 8 p.m. Tues., Thur., Sat.; 9 p.m.   St., Folsom; 353-0733). Most popular
                      though; more carts will come, and you           Wed. and Fri.). Most popular at fair       Dish: blackberry and brie pancakes.
                                                                      oaks Blvd.: French toast. at k street:
                      want to hold out for a variety of savory        Breakfast Special (two eggs, roasted
The yum-yum dim sum                                                   red potatoes, choice of meat).
                      delights before you fill up.
at New Canton
                                                                      freeporT Bar & Grill (8259
                          Don’T Miss: The mind-blowing variety.       Freeport Blvd.; 665-1169). Most            crepeville, (2700 24th St.;
                            Choosing a favorite dim sum snack         popular Dish: shrimp omelet.               451-2200. 1730 L St.; 444-1100. Davis:
                            is impossible—but if we had to pick,                                                 330 3rd St.; 530-750-2400). Daily.
                            we’d say the chive dumplings. No,         l wine lounGe & urBan kiTchen              Most popular Dish at 24th street:
                            the fried shrimp balls. No, wait…         (1801 L St.; 443-6970). Most popular       Country Scramble with chicken
                          BreakfasT Basics: $2.45–$6 each.            Dish: Sunny Side Up Pizzetta.              apple sausage. at l street: Canadian
                           10:30-3 M-F, 10-3 Sat.-Sun.                                                           Benedict. at Davis: Athens Scramble
                                                                      n sTreeT café (2022 N St.;                 topped with feta cheese.
                      	   2523	Broadway,	Sacramento.		739-8888.       491-4008). Until 6 p.m. weekdays.
                                                                      Most popular Dish: breakfast wrap.         *In Sacramento unless otherwise indicated.




                                                                                                                 FEBRUARY MARCH          | 09                 73
                                                                     roxy
       GranGe
                                                                     Brunch LoVerS, SADDLe uP: roxy restaurant
       Ah, hoteL BreAkfAStS. Do they make you think                  and Bar, with its glam cowgirl theme, puts a fun
       of those stale mini-bagels, sad muffins and bad coffee?       Western spin on the day’s best meal. the menu boasts
       no longer, now that Grange (in the new citizen hotel)         everything from the swish—vanilla brioche french
       has come to town with house-made granola, refined
       french-press tea, Acme french toast and fresh-squeezed
                                                                     toast, eggs Benedict made with Berkshire ham and a
       juices, and dishes like buttermilk griddle cakes and a rich   potato cake instead of the usual english muffin—to
       scramble with Laura chenel goat cheeses and sun-dried         the down-home: sourdough pancakes with seasonal
       tomatoes, as well as side dishes like meaty house-made        fruit compote and fluffy, crisp-edged cheddar biscuits
       fennel sausage. there’s a subtle Southern spin to some        with spicy ancho gravy, served with soft-scrambled
       of the fare, thanks to chef Michael tuohy’s sojourn in
                                                                     eggs. there’s also a new, very popular item: the beef
       Atlanta (see pg. 115); the best expression of it is stone-
       ground, creamy Anson Mills grits—not something                breakfast burrito made with owners ron and terri
       you see on a lot of Sacramento breakfast menus, but a         Gilliland’s Lucky Dog ranch beef spiced up in an
       comforting start to the day. for a sweet breakfast treat,     adobo marinade, with eggs, cheese and black beans.
       though, look to the golden-brown, well-risen Belgian          the doughnuts with dipping sauces are a perennial
       waffle topped with an apple-raisin compote—plus a             favorite, and if you’re looking for a hair of the dog, the
       caramelly drizzle of pure maple syrup. nibble that while
       the dining room is bathed in early-morning sunlight
                                                                     bar has lately been playing with the traditional Bloody
       thanks to its eastern exposure and plentiful glass (don’t     Mary: try the biting cowboy Mary, with house-infused
       worry: there are movable shades to keep the glare out), a     arbol chile vodka, or the smoother easy Mary made
       golden way to start your day.                                 with organic cucumber vodka. trust us: cowhands
           Don’T Miss: The Belgian waffle with sweet                 never got a breakfast this good at the camp stove.
            apple-raisin compote                                         Don’T Miss: The soft cheddar biscuits with spicy
           BreakfasT Basics: Entrées $8-$14. 6:30-                        ancho-sausage gravy
            10:30 a.m. M-F, 7:30-11:30 a.m. Sat., 8-2 Sun.               Brunch Basics: Entrées $7.95–$18.95. 9-2 Sat.-Sun.
       	   	 26	J	St.,	Sacramento.	492-4450.	grangesacramento.com
           9                                                         	   	 381	Fair	Oaks	Blvd.,	Sacramento.	489-2000.	
                                                                         2                                                                                                                                                    Roxy’s eggs Benedict
                                                                         roxyrestaurantandbar.com                                                                                                                           on a bed of potato cake



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                The Mexican omelet

     Grange’s Belgian waffle
                                                                                                                                  fox & Goose                                                                                        at Fox & Goose

     with apple-raisin compote
                                                                                                                                  When enGLIShMAn BILL DALton AnD WIfe
                                                                                                                                  DenISe opened the fox & Goose Pub and restaurant in an
                                                                                                                                  empty fuller Paint company factory in 1975, people told them
                                                                                                                                  nobody would ever come to eat in the neighborhood. But nearly
                                                                                                                                  35 years later, the pub now run by their daughter Allyson packs
                                                                                                                                  ’em in, especially for sturdy British breakfasts. the space, filled
                                                                                                                                  with Brit memorabilia, manages to be cozy and lofty at the same
                                                                                                                                  time, and the pub grills of eggs, english country potatoes with
                                                                                                                                  stubby bangers and crumpets are sublime. or get your bangers
                                                                                                                                  in the British omelet with sharp english cheddar and onions;
                                                                                                                                  in fact, all the three-egg omelets are excellent, especially the
                                                                                                                                  one filled with Welsh rarebit (cheddar cheese sauce with lager),
                                                                                                                                  grilled tomatoes and onions, or the colorful Mexican omelet
                                                                                                                                  topped with salsa and sour cream. Another popular choice is the
                                                                                                                                  tongue-in-cheek eggs Benedict Arnold, with rarebit instead of
                                                                                                                                  hollandaise. Looking for something healthier? the fox & Goose
                                                                                                                                  may have the best vegetarian breakfasts in town. We love the
                                                                                                                                  harvest grains, a nutty bowl of wild rice, brown rice and barley,
                                                                                                                                  served with apples, raisins and brown sugar, and there’s a huge
                                                                                                                                  variety of tofu scrambles.
                                                                                                                                  Don’T Miss: The Welsh rarebit omelet with cheese sauce,
                                                                                                                                    tomatoes and onions
                                                                                                                                  BreakfasT Basics: Entrées $4.75–$10. 7-2 daily.
                                                                                                                                  1001	R	St.,	Sacramento.	443-8825.	foxandgoose.com



74                     FEBRUARY MARCH     | 09                                                                                                                                                          FEBRUARY MARCH   | 09                   75
     Clockwise from top: Original
     Pancake’s Dutch Baby, apple,

                                             The
     buttermilk and 49er pancakes


                                             oriGinal
                                             pancake
                                             house
                                             LIke PAncAkeS? You’ll love the
                                             original Pancake house, where they
                                             have 23 different kinds of them (plus
                                             seasonal variations using local fruit, like
                                             berries from Auburn’s Amber oaks berry
                                             farm); if a guest eats every single type the
                                             restaurant offers (no, it doesn’t have to be
                                             all in one sitting), his or her name goes up
                                             on a plaque. friendly owners Steve and
                                             Linda Smith opened the franchise (of a
                                             well-regarded, family-owned Portland
                                             chain) three years ago; they had lived
                                             in Portland in the 1980s, and loved the
                                             original original restaurant so much that
                                             they made it a goal to open one someday.
                                             though it’s a chain, the food quality is
                                             high: pancake batters are made fresh
                                             every morning after a five-day sourdough-
                                             starter process (the restaurant makes all       Cafe Bernardo’s breakfast
                                             its own starters), and the apple syrup and      sandwich with tomatoes,
                                                                                             eggs, ham and cheese
                                             blueberry compote are made in-house
                                             daily as well. Popular items include the
                                             10-inch, crepelike 49er flapjacks, the
                                             tangy buttermilk pancakes, Danish-style           cafe                  BernarDo
                                             kijafa cherry crepes, the eggy and moist
                                             Dutch Baby and the glazed, mahogany-              toASt IS DeePLY unDerrAteD. When it’s
                                             colored apple pancake, which is an                reliably well-made—hot, crisp but not too crunchy,
                                                                                               and never burnt—which is rarer than it might seem,
                                             oven-baked mountain of apple slices and           that’s a hallmark of a great breakfast spot. that’s how
                                             caramelized sugar. Don’t flip for flapjacks?      it is at old standby cafe Bernardo; it isn’t chichi, but
                                             the old-fashioned oatmeal is great,               they turn out tasty toast and a darned good breakfast,
                                             too, and the omelets are made using a             year in and year out, with plenty of integrity. We like
                                                                                               the original midtown location for its french posters
                                             distinctive technique (started on the range,      and expansive windows (we’ll like it even better when
                                             finished in the oven and specially rolled)        the construction across the street wraps up), but the
                                                                                                                                                           Bernardo’s tasty toast
                                             that makes them extra fluffy and hot all          mod r and 15th location and pleasant Davis spot
                                             the way through.                                  are great too. the different locations have distinctive items, like a tofu scramble with
                                                                                               pesto and sweet peppers at r and 15th and the buckwheat pancakes in Davis. But we
                                                 Don’T Miss: Pancakes! Our top
                                                                                               especially love the egg dishes, like the Bernardo breakfast sandwich with eggs, ham,
                                                  picks: the thin 49er flapjacks and
                                                  the apple pancake.
                                                                                               white cheddar and tomato in midtown, and the vaunted eggs Bernardo, which takes
                                                 BreakfasT Basics: Entrées                     the classic Benedict and plays it straight with smooth hollandaise, smoked ham ($2
                                                  $3.99–$10.79. 6:30-2:30 M-F, 7-3             extra) and just-right wobbly poached eggs—except that they layer it on that excellent
                                                  Sat.-Sun.                                    sliced bread. We’ll toast to that.
                                             	   1
                                                 	 0000	Fairway	Dr.,	Roseville.	788-3040.	         Don’T Miss: The eggs Bernardo. And, of course, the toast.
                                                 originalpancakehouse.com
                                                                                                   BreakfasT Basics: : Entrées $4–$8. 7-11 a.m. M-F, 7-1 Sat., 7-2 Sun.
                                                                                               	   	 acramento:	2726	Capitol	Ave.	443-1180;	1431	R	St.	930-9191.	Davis:	234	D	St.	530-750-5101.	
                                                                                                   S



76                   FEBRUARY MARCH   | 09                                                                                                            FEBRUARY MARCH        | 09                   77
                Tower                              cafe
                It’S ALL ABout the french
                toASt at this ever-popular, 19-year-old
                local institution, where the tall, creamy-
                inside, crunchy-outside slabs—hewn from           Sometimes, you don’t want a whole breakfast; you just
                baguettes—have been the restaurant’s               want to stumble out briefly and return, triumphant,
                runaway bestseller for years. the recipe,          with doughnuts, coffee and a plan to do nothing but
                praised by the likes of The New York Times,
                                                                  the crossword for the whole day. here are some of our
                was dreamed up by owner Jim Seyman
                even before the restaurant opened, and
                                                                         favorite places to snag fried sugar bombs.
                yes, it’s a secret—but we did learn that
                the bread is soaked in custard overnight,          Bistro 33 El DoraDo Hills                         doughnut goodness like filled-to-order
                browned briefly on the stovetop and then           A white paper bag of piping-hot doughnut          chocolate- and maple-glazed bars (you can
                                                                   holes—made from scratch, fried to order           pick custard or whipped cream), crullers,
                baked in the oven. (In fact, tower wants to                                                          moist cake or old-fashioned doughnuts
                                                                   and shaken up with cinnamon sugar—is
                offer it all day long, but the large amounts       a signature dessert item at the various           with cheery sprinkles (pictured above),
                of oven space it demands have been an              branches of Bistro 33, but currently the          huge apple fritters and—the connoisseur’s
                                                                                                                     prize—fantastic buttermilk bars. Co-owner
                obstacle.) A full order is huge, so go for         El Dorado Hills restaurant is the only one
                                                                   serving them at breakfast. Many parties           Milica Stijakovic had a family member who
                the half or try another option: the smaller-       start out with a bag of them, served with         worked at Winchell’s, and it took 10 years
                portioned seasonal french toast with a             strawberry compote, honey butter and              to perfect recipes for doughnuts that tasted
                fresh fruit compote (recent combos include         chocolate sauce, as a breakfast appetizer—        just like the late, lamented chain’s. “I like to
                                                                   but they’re also available to go, in case         be taken back to when I was young,” says
                pear-blueberry). But don’t stop there: If,
                                                                   you have a craving to bring them home.            Stijakovic, who mans the counter while
                like many tower aficionados, your eyes             Breakfast served 9-2 Sat.-Sun. 4364 Town          co-owner Al Zoghet fries ’em up just right.
                have never flicked further down the menu           Center Blvd., Suite 124, El Dorado Hills.         7-3 Mon.-Thur., 7-6 Fri.-Sun. 1003 2nd St.,

                than the french toast, there’s a world of          358-3733. bistro33.com                            Sacramento. 496-1074.

                egg dishes as eclectic as the cafe’s décor                                                           willie’s Burgers
                                                                   Marie’s DoNut
                waiting down there. the sleeper hit is the         This Land Park shop has opened its                Yes, it’s a joint that mostly serves Southern
                carnitas, made in a moist style with pulled        signature walk-up window to McClatchy High        California-style burgers. But since the late
                                                                                                                     1990s they’ve also been frying up fresh,
                pork slow-roasted to tender perfection in          kids, night-shift workers (they open at 1 a.m.
                                                                   daily) and other neighborhood denizens for        made-from-scratch beignets (New Orleans-
                an achiote-citrus marinade, accompanied            more than 50 years; current owners Mang           style doughnuts without a hole; pictured
                with scrambled eggs and tower’s meaty              Te and Sandy Hong purchased the shop 20           above) for breakfast. The move was inspired
                potatoes, which are flavorful, deeply              years ago. And the prices seem just as retro:     by owner Bill Taylor’s basic-training stint
                                                                   You can get a plain for a mere 70 cents and       in the Louisiana Army National Guard in
                browned and addictive.
                                                                   a fancy doughnut for $1.35. Everything’s          1968, when he was exposed to the stubby
                    Don’T Miss: Do you have to ask? French         made in-house, and while the basic glazed         golden treats, which are made from yeast-
                     toast, the seasonal version with fruit                                                          raised dough, topped with a thick layer of
                                                                   and bars are the most popular, we’re partial
                    BreakfasT Basics: Entrées                                                                        powdered sugar and served up hot: $1 for
                                                                   to crunchy, deep-brown, sugary apple
                     $4.95–$11.95. 8-11 a.m. M-F, 8-2 Sat.-Sun.
                                                                   fritters, tender blueberry cake doughnuts         one, or just $2 for three. Willie’s breakfast
                	   	1518	Broadway,	Sacramento.	441-0222.		
                                                                   and the delish maple-frosted                      also includes fresh crepes, egg plates (the
                    towercafe.com
                                                                   old-fashioneds. 1 a.m.-4 p.m. M-F, 1 a.m.-        “home run” has four eggs) and a breakfast
                                                                   3 p.m. Sat.-Sun. 2950 Freeport Blvd.,             burrito, but plenty of people (like us) come
                                                                   Sacramento. 444-5245.                             just for the sweetly sublime beignets.
                                                                                                                     Hey, it’s easier than going to the French
                                                                   sweet trails DoNut &                              Quarter. Breakfast served 6:30-10:30
 Tower Cafe’s                                                      CrEpEs Co.                                        a.m. M-F, 7:30-11 a.m. Sat.-Sun. 2415
 French toast                                                      This gem, open just a year, looks like any        16th St., Sacramento (444-2006); 5050
with seasonal                                                      other Old Sac sweet shoppe from the               Arden Way, Carmichael (488-5050).
fruit compote                                                                                                        williesburgers.com
                                                                   outside, but once inside you’ll find old-time


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