Rock climbing

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					                                            Rock climbing
T    he Vaqueros Sandstone outcrops in Castle Rock
     State Park have been used for climbing for over
100 years, with a dramatic increase in use in the
                                                                   ing routes can be damaged if climbed during this
                                                                   time. Please allow two or three days after a heavy
                                                                   rain for the rock to dry before climbing.
past decade. The sandstone’s relatively hard exte-                • Avoid any rock feature that could be a petroglyph or
rior and the unique cavernous weathering (tafoni)                   pictograph. Avoid any climb that is known to have
make these rocks very desirable for rock climbing                   such features. Any suspected archaeological site
and bouldering. The rocks in the park represent a                   found by a climber should be identified to a ranger.
unique, limited, and very valuable resource to the
climbing community. As a result of changes in rock                • Consider visual impact. Chalk and brightly colored
climbing and increasing numbers of climbers, the                    slings left on climbs intrude on other’s views.
                             Castle Rock Climbers                   Consider using a chalk ball and only leave slings or
                             Committee, consisting                  chains of subdued color and low contrast as perma-
                             of volunteers from the                 nent rappel anchors.
                             local climbing com-                  • Avoid overcrowding rocks. The more people, the
                             munity, works with                     more impact – solitude also suffers.
                             California State Parks
                                                                  • Consider giving something back to your park. Pick
                             in dealing with park
                                                                    up trash and help educate uninformed individuals.
                             climbing issues. Climb-
                                                                    Consider participating in restoration, maintenance,
                             ers who have concerns
                                                                    and trail building projects. Promote an environ-
                             about climbing issues
                                                                    mental ethic in your recreational pursuit.
                             within the park should
                             contact the park for                 • Each climber is an ambassador to the world for all
                             current policies or for                climbers. Please help make climbers look good,
                             questions.                             take responsibility for the impact on park resources
                                                                    and other park users, and cooperate with park staff.
            Low Impact Climbing
• Local climbers are committed to good stewardship
  of the park. To preserve the character and beauty
  of the park’s rock formations and have minimum
  impacts on soils, vegetation, wildlife and other
  visitors, climbers and the park support “Leave No
  Trace” practices advocated by the Access Fund.
  “Leave No Trace” and “low impact climbing” prac-
                                                                       Castle Rock
  tices are listed below. The cooperation of the entire             Falls Overlook
  climbing community is sought in observing them.
• Observe all park rules and closures. Check park                  Please follow these park rules and regulations:
  bulletin boards for notices of possible restrictions
  posted to protect nesting birds and other wildlife              • The park is closed from Sunset to 6 a.m. including
  and areas recovering from overuse. Off trail activi-              all trails. Only registered campers in designated
  ties including climbing are not permitted in the                  trail camps may be in the park overnight. Do not
  San Lorenzo Headwaters Natural Preserve.                          camp at Climbing Rocks or other areas outside the
• Limit bolting. Before placing new bolts or replac-                campground. Overnight parking for purposes of                                              Detail of Castle Rock Trail Camp
  ing old ones, climbers must notify the park and                   camping is allowed in the Castle Rock Main Park-                                                                                                       Loghry Woods
                                                                    ing lot only.                                                                                                                                                  Trail
                                                                                                                                                           Frog Flat Trail

  receive approval. Please contact the park to initiate                                                                                                                        Main 16 17
                                                                                                                                                                               Camp 14 15

                                                                                                                                                                                                    Saratoga Gap
  a bolting request.                                              • Dogs, bicycles, glass containers and smoking are                                                         25 24
                                                                                                                                                                                    22      12 13
                                                                                                                                                                              23 21                                                            Trail
• Help prevent erosion. Use only existing access                    prohibited.                                                                Frog Flat                          20         11

  trails. Please carry (rather than drag) crash pads.             • Weapons, including firearms, spears, bow and                                     5
                                                                                                                                                     4 32 1
  The park’s topsoil is fragile and easily displaced                arrow, BB guns, slingshots, airsoft weapons,                                                                                                                Se

  from the steep slopes in much of the park.                        paintball guns or any device capable of injuring or
• Protect park vegetation. The park is home to a                    killing any person or animal are prohibited.
  variety of mosses, plants,                                      • Campfires are prohibited during fire season. When                                                        Gap
                                                                                                                                               Russell       toga
  and trees, which in turn                                          fire season is closed, campfires are only permitted                         Point    Sara
                                                                                                                                                                               Ridge Trail                                                         [Not to scale]
  provide food and shelter                                          in the designated metal fire rings in the Castle
  for wildlife. Vegetation                                          Rock Trail Camp. Check for fire season restric-

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               backpacking at castle Rock tRail camp
  is part of the beauty of                                          tions.
  the park. One of the                                            • Gathering firewood including twigs and leaves is
  challenges of climbing is                                         prohibited. Firewood is available for sale at Castle
  to work around mosses,                                                                                                                            This campground is located 2.6 miles                                                                                                                                     ½ hour before sunset to have enough light               ground for a fee.
                                                                    Rock Trail Camp.
  lichens and branches                                                                                                                         from the main parking lot using the Sara-                                                                                                                                     for setting up camp.                                        Bicyclists are only permitted access to
  without damaging them.                                          • Quiet hours are 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. daily. Sounds                            toga Gap Trail and operates primarily on                                                                                                                                           Situated on a ridge in a Knobcone Pine             the Castle Rock Trail camp via the Camp-
                                                                    should not be heard beyond your own camp. No                               a first-come, first-served basis. Campsites                                                                                                                                   forest with chaparral understory, each site             ground Service Road.
• Avoid formations that                                             person may disturb another person with loud or                             are limited to six people per site. Overnight                                                                                                                                 has a table and fire ring with piped drinking               Bicycles are not allowed on any trails
  are fragile. The chemi-                                           unreasonable noise at any time.                                            parking is only allowed in the Castle Rock                                                                                                                                    water and vault toilets nearby.                         beyond the Castle Rock Trail Camp.
  cally weathered “tafone”
                                                                  • Please respect private property rights and stay on                         main parking lot. If the kiosk is closed, you                                                                                                                                      Fires are only allowed in designated fire              Dogs are not allowed in Castle Rock
  and “fretworks” forma-
                                                                    designated trails.                                                         must self-register. Since all trails are closed                                                                                                                               rings when fire season is not in effect. Wood           State Park, including the backpacking trail
  tions found on this sandstone are unique and
                                                                                                                                               at sunset, campers are required to remain                                                                                                                                     gathering is prohibited, however, campers               camps.
  should not be damaged.                                          • The Natural Preserve – Use inside the San Lorenzo
                                                                                                                                               in the campground after sunset until 6:00                                                                                                                                     may either bring in firewood from outside                                                                                    A camping shelter is available for everyone’s
• Respect the integrity of the rock and the climb.                  Headwaters Natural Preserve is restricted to hiking                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       use during inclement weather.
                                                                                                                                               a.m. Plan on being in your campsite at least                                                                                                                                  the Park or purchase firewood at the Camp-                                              Photos by Tim Sukovaty
  Chipping or drilling holds damages the rock.                      on established trails.
  Please do not remove loose rock, chip, sculpt, glue             • All vegetation, wildlife and geological features are
  or deface.                                                        protected. Do not pick wildflowers, mushrooms or
• Consider not climbing when the rock is wet. This                  other plants, nor remove any park feature. Do not
                                                                    feed, disturb, or harm any wildlife.
                                                                                                                                                                                                         summaRy of climbs                                                                                                                                                                                                             California Ridge Area
  sandstone is more fragile when it is wet so climb-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Castle Rock Area                                            Rock or Area        # of          Bolts        Rock height / Number of rocks
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Goat Rock Area                                                      Rock or Area        # of       Bolts     Rock height / Number of rocks                                       Climbs   Belay Pro                 Climb difficulty range, Locations
                                                                                 Waterfall Area                                                                   Rock or Area                                           # of                      Bolts            Rock height / Number of rocks                                      Climbs   Belay Pro         Climb difficulty range, Locations     Shady Rock                10          x       x    25’        5.8–5.11c       NE, SW faces
                                                   Rock or Area        # of          Bolts       Rock height / Number of rocks                                                                                           Climbs              Belay Pro                     Climb difficulty range, Locations   Castle Rock              12       x          40’–50’    5.4–5.12      all faces          Platypus                   7          x       x    35’        5.9–5.11c       NE, SW faces
                                                                       Climbs   Belay Pro                  Climb difficulty range, Locations        Goat Rock                                                             14                     x         x        80’         5.4–5.12a      E, S, W faces   Castle Rock Boulders     23                  8+ Rocks   V0–V7                            Chew Tooth                 5          x       x    20’        5.8–5.12a       NE face
                                               Waterfall, Right          18      x           x   70’–85’      5.6–5.12b       R of falls            Goat Rock Boulders                                                    28                                        15 Rocks V0+ – V8                          Magoo Boulders           26                  7 Rocks    V0–V10, B5.6, 5.8                California Ridge           8          x       x    50’        5.6–5.11d       E face
                                               Waterfall, Left           1       x           x   100’         5.7–5.10a       L of falls            Billy Goat Rock                                                        5                     x         x        35’         5.9–5.13       W face          Yabo Boulders            10                  5 Rocks    V0–V5                            Mud Wall                   6          x       x    20’–40’ 5.10a–5.11d E face
                                               Blockhead                 3       x           x   35’          5.10c–5.12a     Front face            Mt. Doom                                                               5                     x         x        20’–45’     5.7–5.11d      E, S, W faces   The Beak                 12                  2+ Rocks   V0–V7                            The Mudlet                 2          x       x    30’        5.10a–5.10b 100’ W of MW
                                               Slave Cave                3       x           x   50’-60’      5.11d–5.13      L of falls            Klinghoffer Boulders                                                  25                     x                  8 rocks     V0–V7      25’ 5.7–5.11d       Graveyard Boulders       19                  9 Rocks    V0–V10                           Underworld Rock           12          x       x    70’        5.9–5.11a       NE, SE, S faces
                                               Lower Muffin              4       x           x   30’-40’      5.10d–5.11c     W faces               Last Temptation Cliff                                                 10                     x         x        35’–50’     5.9–5.12a      SW face         Hueco Wall                9                  4 Rocks    V0–V7       below Magoos         The Gods                   5          x       x    20’        5.10a–5.12a E face
                                               Middle Muffin             4       x           x   25’          5.10d–5.13b     W face                Skull                                                                  4                     x                  15’–20’     5.0–5,11b      S face          Jumbalia/Lizard           4                  25’        5.0–5.8       back gully         Ironing Board              2          x       x    30’        5.9–5.11a
                                               Upper Muffin              1       x           x   20’          5.10            W face                Voyeur                                                                 5                     x                  15’, 20’    5.10d–5.11c                    Pyramid Rock              2       x          25’        5.0–5.10a     N, W faces         Henry and Otis             6          x            20’–30’ 5.9–5.11c
                                               Muffins Bouldering        4                       4 Rocks V0–V5                                      Hostess                                                                2                     x                  20’ - 25’   5.9 - 5.10d SW face            Parking Lot Rock         28                  10’, 15’, 20 V0–V10                         Triangle Rock              1          x            15’        5.12b           Trail very faint

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